The process of self-installation of siding on the facade of a wooden house. Step-by-step instructions for covering your house with siding yourself, photos and videos How to attach siding to the wall

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One of the most reliable building materials siding is used to protect the entire construction site from any external influences. However, no matter what qualities this material has, if the installation of siding is not carried out according to technology, then it protective properties may be reduced to zero. And, despite the fact that this material, by its structure, should protect the structure from precipitation, exposure ultraviolet radiation, noise and other adverse phenomena, the slightest violation during installation leads to penetration harmful substances inside the premises.

In this article we will talk about installing siding with our own hands, we will give detailed instructions for dummies, and will also accompany all photos and video materials.

To cover any building with siding, you need tools and some equipment. First of all, these are screws and nails.

For cutting and fastening you will need a hammer, a level, a tape measure, a plumb line, a square, hammer drill pliers, a hacksaw and a circular saw with fine teeth. If we are talking about installing metal siding, then you also need to purchase metal scissors to trim the panels in the corners. During installation vinyl siding for cutting in the transverse direction, a sharply sharpened ordinary knife is used, and for transverse cutting - circular saw. To protect your eyes, experts recommend wearing safety glasses.

Instructions

Below we will describe the work processes for laying vinyl siding step by step. By following simple tips and recommendations, you can do this work without being a specialist.

The first stage is the correct cutting of the material in order to use it as economically as possible and avoid mistakes when laying out the panels. To do this, make a plan (drawing) that allows you to correctly distribute the material over the entire surface to be laid.

Base for siding

Before installation of the panels begins, sheathing is installed on the façade of the building. This is done in all cases, except when they are faced with panels. wooden building. To make lathing, wooden blocks, edged boards, and metal profiles are used.

The effectiveness of installation depends on the correctness and thoroughness with which the sheathing will be filled, that is, how strong the resulting base will be.

So, the installation of basement siding (as, indeed, any other) will be carried out correctly if all the unevenness of the wall or sheathing is smoothed out. The fact is that in the final version, the siding will only highlight all the irregularities and flaws in the preparation. For best quality work, horizontal cladding of panels is carried out on a horizontal sheathing, and vertical installation perform vertically accordingly.

If the cladding is carried out using insulation, then it is recommended to use roll insulation as a thermal insulation material, and the use of loose materials contributes to surface deformation.

The basic rule that the installation instructions require is the formation of a gap between the panels, since siding is subject to thermal expansion and contraction, and if this condition is not met, the facade may swell and warp. The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails through appropriate rectangular slots.

The nails should not be driven very tightly into the middle of the holes, in which case the fastening of the panels will be strong and reliable. Installation by driving nails directly into the panels will destroy them and is therefore not recommended.

After securing the panels, they should “move” freely in the horizontal direction. Installation is carried out with an overlap of approximately 25-30 millimeters.

To begin with, all panels must be left outside for two to three hours so that they “get used” to the outside temperature. When installing siding in cold winter months, the gap between the panels must be increased at least twice, that is, it should be about 10 millimeters. In this case, the linear expansion coefficient of the siding will be maintained, and the panels will create a durable and reliable protection buildings and structures.

The first step required by the instructions is to install the initial elements. These are starting profiles, internal and external corners, and special J-profiles. After which you can begin the actual installation of siding.

The starting profile is the element that begins the laying of all panels, and to which all other panels are attached. J-profiles are used to fasten panels in hard-to-reach places, for example, at the junctions of cornices and walls, along the perimeter of window and door openings. With the help of this profile, facades can be given any, even the most bizarre, look, since it allows fastening taking into account all design features structures. Another element used to improve facades is the finishing strip. The facades in the top row are sheathed with it, thanks to which the surface looks smooth and neat.

When fastening panels in a vertical direction on the external corners of a building, the installation technology involves finishing with the so-called external corners, this allows for a neat appearance of the corner joints.

The same role is played by the internal corner, only it provides carefully disguised joints of the internal corners of buildings.

Siding

The paneling begins from those places where the maximum load is expected to be applied to them. These are doors, gates, window openings, etc. This allows all other connections to be isolated from these places. All regular siding panels are attached using a lock joint. That is, the lower lock of the previous panel (upper) must be fastened to the upper lock of the subsequent panel (lower). Vertically, the cladding is overlapped, thus having the ability to adjust the size of the sections, both in height and width.

Basement siding

The work of installing basement siding is not difficult, so you can easily do it yourself. First you need to carry out preparatory work. The final result depends on their quality.

The standard size of the plinth panel is 500x1200 mm. Their fastening is carried out in the same way as regular siding on the sheathing. Other sizes may also be available, for example, 220x3000 mm. Such dimensions require the installation of exclusively vertical sheathing.

In some cases, decisions are made to cover the entire facade of the house with basement siding. Additionally, the wall can be insulated.

The principle of making the frame is as follows:

The sheathing for the plinth is best made from metal profile. Wooden beam in close range dampness may accumulate from the ground, as a result of which it will become unusable.
Based on climatic conditions, you independently determine the height of the base. If you live in an area where the ground freezes heavily, then the sheathing should be raised from the ground level by 150 mm. If it does not freeze, then you can begin installation directly on it.
When making the sheathing, both horizontal and vertical guides should be installed. So, the pitch between vertical ones is 900 mm, and between horizontal ones is 450 mm.

When assembling the sheathing frame, be sure to use a level. Otherwise, the installation of basement siding will not proceed smoothly.

When the sheathing is completed, you can begin installing the basement siding. The work is the following sequence:

The starting bar is mounted horizontally.
Internal/corner elements are installed at the corners.
For fastening, self-tapping screws with a press washer 4–5 cm long are used.
There should be a gap of up to 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. This play will allow the panel to move without difficulty when expanding.
At the joints in the corner of the building, thermal gaps of up to 10 mm should also be left. To make them invisible, they need to be covered with a trim corner.
Siding installation begins on the left side. So, if there is an imitation on it natural stone or brick, the panel must be trimmed on the left side so that a smooth edge is obtained. After this, the cut edge is inserted into the trim corner and placed on the starting profile. Each subsequent panel fits strictly into the groove. When it comes to the opposite corner, the right edge of the element is also trimmed and inserted into the trim corner.

To increase the thermal insulation qualities of the house, siding can be installed with insulation. Let's look at the features of façade insulation using an example: wooden house. By installing siding with insulation, you can achieve 3 goals simultaneously:

Updated facade.
Thermal insulation.
Moisture protection.

But for insulation to be truly effective, the selected material must meet the following criteria:

Easy to install.
Preservation of the primary form.
Resistance to chemical and biological compounds.
Environmental friendliness.
Long service life.
Low thermal conductivity.

The choice of insulation for siding is also influenced by two factors: air humidity in your area and wind rose.

Types of insulation

There is a wide selection of thermal insulation materials for the facade of a wooden house. For example, if roll insulation is selected, then the layer should be from 3 to 20 mm. Its fastening is carried out using special glue. You can also use mineral or basalt fibers, which are produced in slabs. Mineral wool and polyethylene foam are very popular. Polystyrene foam is also often used. The strength and effectiveness of this material has been tested by time.

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the facade under the siding. This material retains its original shape and is ideal for any type of siding. Mineral wool is produced in slabs of the following sizes:

600×1200 mm.
500×1000 mm.

When choosing mineral wool to insulate the facade, make sure that its density is more than 80 kg/m3.
Before laying the insulation, it is mandatory to lay a layer of vapor barrier (usually polyethylene or roofing felt). It is necessary to prevent condensation between the insulation and the wall.

A vapor barrier is not needed when laying mineral wool. This insulation allows steam to pass through and does not absorb moisture.

When laying insulation, it is important not to leave a single crack or gap. It should envelop the entire façade of the building. The insulation itself is fixed on the already manufactured sheathing. After this process, you can begin installing siding, the technology of which was written about in this article.

When installing any siding, it is necessary to avoid excessive tension on the panels when connecting each subsequent row to the previous one. Otherwise, this is fraught with swelling, deformation of a separate panel and damage to the surface of building facades.

The very last row of panels is laid after the finishing strip is installed.

Paneling is carried out from the bottom up, and is completed under the eaves of the structure.

To install siding in places where objects, such as pipes, are located, holes are cut in the panels that are approximately 6 millimeters wider than the object.

When covering the openings with siding using J-profiles, it is necessary to install the upper and lower edges above and below them, respectively. First, J-profiles are installed, and the edges are installed in them.

When installing siding above the eaves, first install two or three finishing slats, joined to each other (the lower gap is maintained within 3 millimeters).

Video

We invite you to watch a video about installing siding.

Photo

Below in the photographs you can view the options for finishing houses with siding:

Scheme

The diagrams show some details of siding installation:

Vinyl siding is gaining increasing popularity in our country. This is easy to explain - siding is durable, beautiful in appearance and relatively low in cost. In addition, they can easily cover any house - brick, concrete or wood. In total, all these advantages make this cladding material very attractive. The number of private home owners who give preference to it is growing every year. Therefore, many people want to know how to install vinyl siding.

You don’t have to be a professional to decorate your house with it. It is enough to know at least in theory about the progress of the work. Expensive and highly specialized tools are also not needed - everyone has almost everything they need at hand home handyman. And if not, you can buy additional tools or rent them for several hundred rubles - today many companies offer such a service. So using it allows you to save money and get a house that will make all your neighbors and acquaintances jealous.

Installation tools

Siding installation can be done either using electric tools, and the most common ones. In the first case, you can do all the work not only quickly, but also very carefully, and in the second, you have the opportunity to save a lot of money.

So, here's what a craftsman will need to sheathe a house with vinyl:

Electric jigsaw or knife. A jigsaw allows you to get a neat cut and get the job done much faster. But everyone has a knife at hand. It is soft enough that it can be cut with a knife - you just need to apply pressure several times in one place so that the panel breaks neatly along the cut.
A drill (hand or electric) will allow you to drill holes for attaching hardware. It is undesirable to pierce the panels with a nail, as some people practice, as this increases the risk of cracks and chips, which significantly spoil the appearance.
Screwdriver or screwdriver. The first option is faster, and the second is much cheaper and is available in every home.
A laser level is preferable, but a regular one can also be used.
Yardstick.

With this simple set of tools, you can safely begin installing vinyl siding.

Before you begin, it will be helpful to have some information about vinyl siding that will save you time and material.

For example, not everyone knows that vinyl has a high coefficient of linear expansion. That is, as the temperature increases, it noticeably increases in volume. Therefore, during installation, under no circumstances should the planks be adjusted close to each other - you need to leave a gap of at least 4-6 mm. If installation is carried out at a temperature of -10° C (in general this is undesirable, but cases vary), then the gap should be at least 10 mm.

When starting work, leave the siding outside for at least a few hours to allow it to reach outside temperature. This then reduces the risk that unnecessary hassle will arise during installation due to narrowing or expansion. But on a hot summer day, it is better to fold it in the shade - under no circumstances leave it in the sun, as this can cause excessive overheating and serious installation errors.

Between fasteners and work surface It is advisable to leave a small gap.

You cannot screw the siding through with a self-tapping screw - this often leads to the appearance of cracks that spoil the appearance and durability of the material. If such a need arises, it is better to carefully drill a hole for the hardware and fix the sheet through it.

Profile installation instructions

Before we tell you how to attach this type of siding, it would not be amiss to mention the basis for its installation - the profile. The appearance of the house after completion of the work, as well as the service life of the siding, depend on the correct installation. This work should be approached as seriously and responsibly as possible.

It begins with setting the starting or starting bar. It encircles the entire house along the perimeter (of course, excluding doorways) at the height from which you plan to start finishing the walls with siding. Some novice craftsmen believe that there is no need to spend extra time on leveling it - the starting profile is still not visible under the panels.

Actually this is not true. Moreover, it depends on how smoothly and neatly it is laid whether the installation of the panels will be easy and quick, or whether it will take a long time and exhaust all the nerves. Therefore, draw a mark where you plan to place the profile, arm yourself with a level and try to install the profile as carefully as possible.

The next stage is attaching the vertical strips. When trying on, it is worth remembering that they should not rest against another profile or other objects. There should always be a gap of 3-5 mm to compensate for the increase in volume during expansion. During installation, self-tapping screws should be inserted into the middle of the nail hole - this also avoids damage during expansion or contraction.

The standard length of the planks is not always sufficient - extension may be necessary. There will be no problems here. After installing the lower part, cut off the fastening points on the sides of the upper part and carefully place it on the lower part. The optimal overlap is 20-25 mm. The top one should be placed on the bottom one, and not vice versa - otherwise water may get into the gap, which is absolutely not needed there.

After this, you can proceed to the corners - external and internal. Angles are not always perfectly straight at 90° or 270°. To solve the problem, just bend the corner profile a little - do it carefully and confidently.

Now you need to install the J-profile around the perimeter of the window and doorways. It is installed in the same way as a corner one.

Finally, start installing . Fastening is carried out in the same way as when installing corner strips. It is very important to correctly calculate the optimal location of the slats. The lower one is attached first, and only then the upper one. Do not forget that the starting bar must be adjacent to the H-profile. If you do the opposite, serious problems will arise when installing the panels.

The finishing profile is installed last. But its installation should begin only when work with the panels is almost completed. Otherwise, there is a high risk that the profile will have to be removed and reinstalled. Therefore, we will talk about this later.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

There are usually no problems when installing the main panels. If the starting profile was fixed evenly and firmly, then the ordinary panels will be installed easily and quickly. Before starting work, beginners often wonder: how to carry out the installation - first finish one wall or gradually sheathe everything? There are no preferences here. Decide for yourself which option is convenient for you - in any case, after completing the cladding, the corners will be finished separately.

The first siding panel is carefully inserted into the grooves of the H-profile or corner, rests on the starting one and snaps into place. If the profile was fastened securely and evenly, the panel itself will slide into place. You just need to check with a level whether it fits perfectly - the slightest distortion will lead to unevenness in the finish.

The installed panel is fixed with hardware, self-tapping screws or nails - depending on what fastening material you choosed. The hardware is more convenient to install and, moreover, if you have to dismantle it, it will be easier to cope with the work. A nail is cheaper and more common, but if it is necessary to remove the fixed panels, they may be damaged if the nails are not removed carefully enough.

Subsequent panels are installed in the same way and fastened together with locks. Experts recommend checking the evenness of the installation using a level at least every third panel. Otherwise, if you notice the distortion too late, you risk spending several hours dismantling and then laying down the panels.

Installation of near-window siding strips near window and door openings

If the J-profile was installed neatly and evenly, you just need to insert the siding panels into it - it will look simple and nice. This is not at all difficult to do; vinyl is flexible and pliable. Therefore, the panel can be slightly bent and installed in the profile. The main task here is to cut the siding neatly and evenly. It is advisable to use a jigsaw or a hacksaw for this.

Installing vinyl siding around an arch

It is more difficult if the house design has arched openings. These are not rectangular windows or doors. But siding manufacturers have provided this option.

The finishing of arches differs from the finishing of ordinary openings only in the way the J-profile is installed. To bend the bar in the desired way, you need to make small notches on its edges. If the radius is large, then there will be few notches. If the arched opening has a small radius, notches will have to be placed more often.

Further work is carried out in the usual way - the profile is installed on top of the door or window opening, and the siding panels are inserted into it.

Finishing of protruding elements

Elements protruding from the walls of the house, for example, a water tap, can cause a lot of problems. When laying panels in such places, it is important to determine their location as accurately as possible and make a cutout on them.

It is best if the element is located at the junction of the panels - then they are overlapped and the hole is minimized. To do this, the fastening element is cut off on one panel and a cutout is made on both panels for the passage of the protruding element.

Installation of finishing strips and the last row of siding panels

When most of the panels have been laid and only one last row remains, you can begin installing the finishing profile. From the edge to last panel the distance corresponding to the height of the panel is measured. The profile is installed here - problems with this do not usually arise.

When the finishing profile is secured, install the last panel, first running it over the profile. After fixing the strip, you need to bend it (due to the fact that vinyl is soft material, this is not difficult to do) and carefully push it into the corresponding groove on the finishing profile.

Installation of soffit siding

Serious difficulties can arise when installing soffit. The installation method depends on whether the windshield or the windshield is wider.

If the windshield is wider, install the finishing strip on the top edge of the windshield. Attach the J-profile to the wall, and install the soffit between them. It can be installed in two ways: joint to joint (to do this, both need to be cut at an angle of 45°) or one of them can be continued until it stops, and the second can be cut so that it fits well with the first.

In cases where the front board is wider than the wind strip, installation is carried out in a different way. Place on the edge of the board outside corner. Attach the J-profile on both sides at an appropriate distance. After this, cut the soffit to the appropriate size and place it between the J-bar and the corner.

Installation of gable siding

On the one hand, when covering a gable with siding, the same technology is used as when covering walls. But the difficulty of quality fitting often leads to the fact that a lot of material has to be thrown away. Therefore, you should act with extreme caution and caution.

By the way, here you can use all the trimmings of the J-profile - it will be hidden under the roofing material.

The first step is to install the starting profile at a suitable height. Then install the J-profile along the roof slopes. If you don’t have a long enough profile at hand, you can connect the existing one with each other. This is not difficult to do - after cutting the edges of one, simply connect the two planks by inserting one into the other.

It is more difficult to connect them together under the very ridge. To do this, you need to very carefully adjust the angle and carefully cut diagonally. However, here in any case you need to leave a gap (to compensate for expansion when heated by the roof heated in the sun), so a perfect fit is not necessary.

Pay maximum attention to adjusting the siding panels to each other and to the roof slope. This is much more difficult to do than it seems at first glance.

To do this, you should resort to the simplest geometry. The pediment forms two right triangles. Measure both legs. Lay the siding panels on a flat surface and set aside appropriate sections on them. Connect the resulting points with a long strip and draw a marker along it. The incision should be made along the resulting hypotenuse. On the other side of the laid panels, draw the hypotenuse in the same way. Then the panels will easily fall into place and fit perfectly together.

Further installation is no different from laying panels on the walls. If you have already learned how to install siding at previous stages of work, then there will be no problems here either. Place the first and lowest layer on the starting strip, securing it to the corner profiles. Use a level to check that the first panel is laid level. If everything is in order, lay the second one, connecting it to the first one with a lock and fixing it on the corner profiles in the same way.

Minor difficulties may arise when installing the top and last layer. Measure the required length and angle, cut out a suitable triangle from a small piece of panel and attach it to the penultimate layer. Then, carefully bend the J-profile and slide the triangle under it. Then the finishing of the pediment will take on a finished appearance.

Now you know how to install vinyl siding, and if necessary, you can easily do this job again. As you can see, the work is not too complicated - even with a minimal set of tools, an inexperienced person who has thoroughly studied the theory will be able to cope with it without difficulty or serious mistakes.

As with any job, you need to be extremely patient and careful. Then you can achieve a result that will pleasantly surprise you, making you feel like a real master and expert in laying siding.

Useful video on how to install vinyl siding

You can improve the appearance of a house or any other extension by installing siding; moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels from 3 to 4 meters long, each of which has a latch lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:

makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
Thanks to a large selection of panels, you can give your home an individual style;
High-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
installation can be done independently;
is a safe material;
When dirty, it can be easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Low-quality and cheap siding fades under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is produced in several types:

Metal;
Vinyl;
Basement (fiber cement);
Acrylic;
Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials made of stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and rot. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and are low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and its technical characteristics are almost similar to vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable and has a more resistant coating to ultraviolet rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and is not flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - high cost.

Metal siding comes in steel, aluminum and galvanized varieties. This material is strong, durable and environmentally friendly. The panels do not change their original shape due to temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemicals. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. It makes a lot of noise when it rains. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Made from coniferous and larch wood. To prevent the panels from darkening or cracking, apply protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. Outer side The slabs have a special coating that protects them from moisture and sunlight. The material is non-flammable, and it does not rot or grow mold. Fiber cement siding is resistant to mechanical damage and deformations. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life is 25-50 years, depending on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of sheathing with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, you need to make a reliable frame. The sheathing can be made from wooden beams or metal profiles. It is fixed to the walls with brackets. The sheathing posts are attached opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the sheathing is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making the sheathing:

The surface of the walls is prepared, gutters and all protruding parts are removed.
If necessary, the walls are primed and wooden surfaces are treated with an antiseptic.
Using a level and plumb line, places for attaching hangers are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, retreated from the edges of the walls by 15 cm, from internal corner- 10 cm.
Drill holes, insert dowels and install U-shaped brackets.
The beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, and a rope is stretched between them.
The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
Horizontal metal profiles are installed in increments of 40 cm.
Above the base, at the top and bottom of windows and doors, horizontal sheathing elements are secured using a crab connector.
Placed between the posts and under the sheathing mineral insulation, in places of joining it is overlapped. It is attached to the wall with umbrella dowels.
The mineral wool and sheathing are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are laid on top of each other and taped with construction tape. It is secured to the sheathing with double-sided tape and counter-battens.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The thermal insulation material is put on the hangers and secured with umbrella dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and the sheathing is installed for installing the siding.

For regions with warm climates, thermal insulation is not provided, but for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before installing the starting strip, flashings are installed. They are secured with self-tapping screws with a distance between them of 40 cm. When joining, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the load-bearing elements. Installed from the top edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is installed on it. The initial plank is attached, checking the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting strip:

from the lower border of the future cladding they retreat upward by 4 cm;
using a level, make marks on all vertical racks sheathing or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
the initial strip is installed with the upper edge to the marks;
secured with self-tapping screws in the middle of the factory holes;
the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
the same distance should be from the edges of the corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile?

J-profile is a universal, load-bearing element of siding trim. It can be regular, arched (flexible) and wide.
A regular J-profile is needed to complete a facing row at the end of a wall, to cover the edge of a cornice, or to replace a finishing panel.
Wide is usually used to design door and window openings.
Arched is used along the edge of an arch-shaped opening. There are notches on the panel where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to attach siding

The siding is attached to the façade of the building or to the sheathing. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

Vinyl panels must be secured only to the factory holes.
For wood cladding It is recommended to use galvanized fastening fittings.
Fastening the elements should be done evenly and directly, in the center of the factory hole.
When securing the siding together, press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
When installing the planks, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the sheathing to allow expansion of the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Attached after the starting profile. Designed to cover and secure the edges of siding, and also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

install the panel so that its lower part protrudes above the starting bar by 0.5-0.7 mm, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
begin to secure the profile from top to bottom;
the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the remaining fasteners are placed in the middle of the holes;
the distance between the screws is 20 cm;
to lengthen the corners, the holes for fastenings are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners at the corner profile are trimmed to the height of the starting strip;
internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to extend siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting strip is installed to extend the panels horizontally. The connecting profile covers the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable and protects it from precipitation getting under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful and look like one whole.

Siding panels can also be lengthened using the “overlapping” method. The profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The length of overlap of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

Installation of H-profile

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal sheathing panels if the wall length is larger size facing material. It is also used when connecting soffit (eaves) siding.

Fastening the connecting strip begins from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made at the top of the hole, subsequent screws are screwed in the middle of the holes. The H-profile should retreat 0.5 cm from the cornice and be 6 mm below the starting strip. On both sides, the connecting profile has a 0.6 cm indentation from the starting panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is not inserted into the H-profile all the way, but so that there is a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For smooth and neat finishing of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel with its end side is inserted into the corner strip, and bottom part they are brought into the lock-bend of the initial one and snapped into place. After which, if necessary, it is pulled up to level the horizontality of the row. Tightening the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent planks for thermal expansion.

The fasteners must not be screwed in completely. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. Do not pull the profile upwards after the locking connection is in place. starting bar will snap into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the sheathing.

Facade cladding with siding is mounted to the top of the wall, but so that there is space left for installation finish bar and the last profile.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The trim strip is a decorative element that is used to provide a beautiful and sealed finish to the top edge of the final panel. Install with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel locking mount facing up.

The procedure for installing the finishing strip:

the plank is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the cornice;
the distance is measured from the top of the finishing strip to installed panels, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result obtained; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then the upper part is cut off;
in the cut panel (without the top part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
of the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part into the locking mount of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

The fasteners are screwed onto the finishing strip through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

Before covering the siding, the window and door openings are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Along the perimeter inside windows (doors) are secured with slats to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window strips, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm and bent in the shape of “tongues”. The upper and lower trim are inserted into the finishing groove, then secured with screws to the sheathing. When installing the side window trims, the “tongues” are inserted inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened by desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut site, holes are made for fasteners, which should be the same size as the factory ones. Then slide the siding panel under the window element and secure it. From below window opening a low tide is installed, the upper edge of which is raised along the entire length from the window. The width of the window sill should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

The profile is mounted above the window (door) in the same way. To cover the walls on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they are brought under the platbands.

When the walls are covered with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window trims is done after the installation of the panels.

Gable trim

At the final stage, they begin cladding the pediment. If the attic will be used for living space, the pediment will be insulated.

First, the roof overhangs and the end part of the roof are prepared. Remove old siding, flashings and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The sheathing for the gable siding is done in the same order as for the walls.

Installation of siding on the gable:

if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then ebb strips are installed;
J-straps are fixed along the perimeter of the pediment, or the starting strip is fixed at the bottom, and the finishing strip at the top;
corners are made from metal profiles and strips are installed external corners;
since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to draw cutting lines on it;
the panels are joined together with an overlap or using an H-bar;
the top one is a ridge sheet of siding, fixed on top directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material - soffit. To install the panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-bars are attached to them. Soffit siding is quite flexible, so it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and inserted into the grooves of the J-plank. You will hear a click when the panel is inserted correctly. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The cladding of the building is completed by the installation of roofing strips - drip panels. Placed on the outer part of the slopes.

You can install siding yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that there is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated quantity (for adjustment). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

Major renovation of a house or construction of a new building also involves its external decoration. Modern a wide range of materials and technologies allows you to realize any design solution and the wishes of the home owner. Very often, owners choose the option of attaching siding to the facade. This relatively new material quickly gained popularity in the construction market due to its excellent qualities and advantages.

What is siding

Siding is modern material for external cladding of house walls. It performs two functions - utilitarian and aesthetic. Siding protects buildings well from the effects of natural factors - rain, snow, sun, wind, and also serves as an excellent decoration for the facades of houses. Today it is one of the most popular materials for cladding on the construction market.

When constructing or renovating a building, you can entrust the exterior finishing to specialists. However, this is a fairly simple process and can be done independently. You will find recommendations on how to properly attach siding below in the article.

Material advantages

Siding has many advantages over such types of cladding as plaster, stone, lining. It is durable, resistant to adverse weather conditions and moderate physical impact, and does not corrode or rot. Non-flammable, environmentally friendly, non-toxic. This type of cladding does not completely cover the walls and allows them to “breathe.” In addition, between the frame slats you can lay thermal insulation material, which will insulate the building and reduce the cost of heating the house in the cold season.

The material is lightweight and easy to transport. How to attach siding? Its installation is very simple, requiring only tools and minimal skills. It is easy to use, does not require updating or painting, and retains its original shape and color for a long time. If dirty, you can simply wash the walls with water from a hose.

Types of siding by material

A wide range of types, colors and textures allows everyone to choose cladding for their home to suit their taste and budget.

According to the material of manufacture, siding is divided into several types:

wood;
vinyl;
metal;
cement;
ceramic.

There are several technologies for fastening each type. You can choose the most suitable method for yourself on how to attach metal siding, wood, vinyl and others.

Siding designs

Based on design and preferred location, siding is divided into the following types:

Basement. It looks like rectangular panels. The colors are dark, non-staining, texture like stone or brick. Moisture resistant. How to attach basement siding? The procedure is simple and does not require special skills.
Facade. It is used for cladding the facades themselves. Has a wide range of colors and textures, natural or artificial materials. Types of shapes - “ship plank”, “M” and “W”.
Ceiling. Designed for covering ceilings in closed or open spaces and structures - garages, terraces, gazebos.
Insulated. It has complex design from several layers - 1 or 2 layers of thermal insulation, metal supporting base, decorative coating. It is applied for additional insulation Houses.

Each of them has its own advantages, disadvantages and priority areas of application. You can learn how to attach siding to the wall from our instructions.

Colors and textures

A wide range of matte and shiny siding colors allows you to bring any design solution to life. It is resistant to fading, which makes it possible to use not only pastel colors, but also bright rich colors for cladding facades. The most commonly used colors are white, gray, beige, yellow, brown, blue, red, green of all shades.

Types of textures are also different - regular smooth, wood, brick or stone. Simple siding can be glossy or matte. Made to resemble such artificial and natural stones like marble, brick, granite and others. The wooden texture can be timber, log, or block house. How to attach siding so that it looks beautiful and original? You can use horizontal, diagonal, vertical technology installation A combination is also possible different types material and several methods of fastening.

Calculation of the required amount of material

In the instructions on how to properly attach siding, the first step is to calculate the required amount of material and additional elements which will be required for this. Initially, it is better to make a schematic drawing of each of the walls of the building, marking all the dimensions on it. Then it is better to divide the surface into geometric shapes, calculate the area of each of them and calculate the total amount. Then you need to subtract the area of all window and door openings. This will be the required area of material. Using the drawing it will also be possible to distribute the use of scraps.

It is also necessary to calculate the amount of metal profile and screws. The number of finishing strips (edging strips, external corners, starting strips) should also be counted. To do this, the perimeter of the house is calculated, the length of the gables and cornices, the perimeter of windows and doors are measured, and the length of all corners is summed up. Should be purchased more material and accessories to prevent force majeure situations.

How to attach siding

After it has been calculated required amount siding and additional elements, and all materials have been purchased, you need to prepare the tools for the job:

roulette;
metal ruler and square;
jigsaw or hacksaw with fine teeth;
screwdriver or screwdriver;
hammer;
pliers;
level;
plumb line;
carpenter's pencil;
chalk and twine.

When all the tools are at hand, you can begin preparatory work. How to attach basement siding and other types of this material? First, scaffolding is installed. Then the walls are cleared of branches of nearby trees that interfere with work and climbing plants. We need to take off the lights drainpipes, shutters, external window sills, corner boards, planks between walls and foundation. If mold is found on the walls, it must be removed and the surface treated with an antiseptic. Distortions of window and door frames should be eliminated.

Before attaching the siding to foam plastic or other material (the algorithm of actions is the same in all cases), you need to install the sheathing. Metal profiles are installed at the corners and along the perimeter of window and door openings. The sheathing can be made of metal or wooden slats. The distances between slats should be no more than 1.5 meters. They are vertically attached with self-tapping screws or dowel nails to the walls, controlled by level and plumb. Insulation is placed in the spaces between the posts.

Then the starting strip and outer corners are strengthened, after which the panels pre-cut to size are screwed on, starting from the bottom. Each subsequent row of panels is attached only after the previous one has been completely installed. The top row interlocks with the bottom row, and on the other side is attached with self-tapping screws.

The procedure for covering a house with siding is very simple. Read the instructions carefully or consult with experienced professionals, and you will make the exterior of your home simply magnificent.

Today, siding is increasingly being used for cladding buildings. The external design of the structure with this material makes it possible to ultimately obtain a light, durable, beautiful and not expensive coverage, which will reliably protect it from the influence of many factors external environment. Range color range, textures and shapes of siding are wide, which makes it possible to create an individual home design.

Tools used

When installing vinyl siding, you should prepare:

1. Tools:

Bulgarian. Necessary for cutting panels.
Hacksaw(scissors). It will be necessary when cutting small-sized elements, to correct minor defects made when cutting the material with a grinder.
Screwdriver with several nozzles.
Hammer– for fastening the sheathing to the facade of the building.
Hammer.
Roulette.
Level.

2. Fastening material. When fastening the material, you must use self-tapping screws (nails) made of aluminum or galvanized. The length of the nails must exceed 4 cm, and the length of the screws - more than 1.5 cm, with a diameter of their heads of more than 0.9 mm.

When attaching 100 m2 of siding, one thousand screws or nails will be required. Many experts recommend using press washers when fastening, since they better fix the panels to any frame and do not corrode.

Sheathing design and siding fasteners

performed on a wooden or metal sheathing. If you plan to mount it on a wooden sheathing, then the wood must be thoroughly dried. Otherwise, the panel locks may become pinched and free movement will not occur. Also, many panels can jump out of the locks and their parallelism will be disrupted. For metal lathing, a regular metal profile is used.

Fastening is carried out with self-tapping screws (if the sheathing is made of metal), nails (staples) to the wooden sheathing. Nails should go into the wooden sheathing to a depth of 3.5 cm, and staples - to a depth of 20 mm.

Nails driven in at an angle will prevent the panels from moving. Each fastener should be centered in the fastening hole. It is not recommended to press the caps tightly against the surface of the material; a small (1-1.5 mm) gap should be left. Driving fasteners through the panel is prohibited.

The pitch of any type of lathing with horizontal fastening is 45-50cm, and with vertical fastening of the material the pitch is 30-35cm. Additionally, you can make or expand existing mounting holes using a hammer drill.

If you need to follow the rule: start attaching the horizontal panel from the middle, and the vertical panel from the top.

Providing temperature gaps

This operation is carried out regardless of what material the walls of the building are made of. The gap is made for: creation of airspace,
preventing the appearance of mold or mildew on the walls; leveling the mounting surface,

since walls rarely have a perfectly flat surface.

The material should not rest against the profiles, so its cutting is carried out taking into account the temperature gap. It will be double if the panel is mounted from one corner to another or from the joining strip to the corner. The gap size is calculated based on the average outside temperature and panel length. Siding cannot be installed at temperatures below 10C, as it becomes brittle. The panels tend to elongate by 0.5mm for every 10C increase in temperature.

The size of the temperature gap is mandatory indicated by each manufacturer, depending on the basic composition of the material. The seam is never sealed. The intersection of the material is done end-to-end. There is no overlap under or above the windows. When joining the material, overlaps should not be noticeable and the same rules apply as when gluing wallpaper. When installing gutters and accessories on the façade of a building, the presence of gaps is also mandatory.

Particular attention should be paid to the installation of the first siding panel so that the installation defect cannot be repeated in the remaining rows.

Setting the starting profile and ebb

It is necessary to install the starting profile, since it is responsible for the reliability and rigidity of the finish. The lathing cannot create rigidity, since its rows run parallel to each other. When two strips are joined in stripes, a figure with right angles is formed. To add rigidity, you can use a metal profile. If rigidity is absent and done incorrectly, installation defects will appear: panels and lock clamps will warp and cracks will form.

The starting profile is mounted along the entire perimeter of the building at the very bottom of the horizontal beam. When installing it, the evenness of the fastening is checked with a level. IN further work this profile will be covered by the first row of siding. You can use not the whole profile, but its pieces. Then you will need to make a 5mm gap between its parts.

The starting profile is mounted where the material approaches the door and windows.

Low tide – This is a vinyl corner profile. The installation of the ebb tide begins with its attachment to the corners.

The technology for its installation includes processing of corners, and for this:

a piece about 50 cm long is cut from the ebb strip;
an element for the external and internal corners is formed from it;
joints in corners do not require sealing with silicone;
the upper part of the edge is aligned horizontally;
The joining of the ebb strips is done with an overlap.

Under the installed ebb, a rigid rail is mounted along the entire length of the base.

Base covering

If the base in the building sinks or it is flush with the wall, then installation begins with fastening starting line. If the base is protruding, then an ebb is attached under the starting profile to drain water.

The process of attaching the material to the base is carried out from bottom to top. When sheathing the base you must remember:

basement siding is selected, like wall siding, from the same manufacturer;
sheathing is carried out only horizontally before finishing the walls;
the basement is not insulated;
when sheathing, it is necessary to accurately calculate the coating consumption, because there is often an overconsumption of material when performing this operation;
The panels are connected to each other by locks (top and bottom).

Basement siding does not end with the usual J-profile or finish, but with a special base border. It will also be the starting profile for the wall material.

Fastening of facade parts

When forming corners, corner panels are used. They are fastened in such a way that there is overhang on the fasteners. The fastener pitch is 25mm. If necessary, the corner panels are overlapped to prevent water from getting into the joint. Their installation is carried out after the installation of the starting profile is completed, only before the installation of the main panels.

When hemming roof overhangs or gables, soffits are used. They are attached before the last row of siding panels is installed. If the roof overhang is more than 60cm, then it needs to be sheathed. The soffits are attached to the sheathing. If the plumb line is smaller, then frame strips are required. The soffits are fastened every 30cm.

The work on edging the doors and windows is done after fixing the corners. For finishing window openings The following profiles apply:

strip near the window;
platband - plank;
hanging bar.

Based on the rules for installing plastic windows, they are mounted to a depth equal to a third of the thickness of the entire wall. For shallow slopes, an angular profile is used. Use near the window slat is assumed with a slope depth of no more than 170 mm. If there are deep slopes, and about window profile cannot close it, then a hinged bar is attached.

This slope is made as a wall using the starting profile. The slopes are fastened with a finishing profile, a profile with a foam or glue lock. The window sill is installed on the foam. When fastening the panel with foam, the panels are secured with special spacers until it completely hardens.

A J profile is used to frame the window opening. A horizontal panel is inserted into it, used as a platband.

Vinyl siding trim

After completing the fastening of the profiles, installation of the siding begins. The process is performed in a specific order:

1. The bottom panel is mounted along the entire length of the wall. If its length is not sufficient, then the connection with the adjacent one is made with an overlap. The amount of overlap should not be less than 3cm (more reliable fastening obtained using an H-profile pre-attached to the frame).

2. Attaching siding. Their installation is carried out in compliance with certain rules:

fastening with self-tapping screws is carried out at a distance of 30cm relative to each other;
screwing in self-tapping screws or driving in nails is performed perpendicular to the wall exactly in the middle of the hole;
Do not tighten the screws all the way, a 1mm gap should be left;
It is not recommended to fasten panels to the corner, because there are special strips for decorating corners. The distance from them to the corner of the wall should be about 1 cm.

Having completed the fastening of the first row, all the others are mounted. The next panel is attached parallel to the profile so that the lock can be easily latched. Without allowing them to be pulled, the panel is attached to the sheathing. Correctly performed fastening will allow the panel to move horizontally.

Fastening is carried out in two ways: around the entire circle of the building or finishing along the walls.

3. Sheathing corners. Each of these corners is decorated with special strips.

4. Attaching the finishing strip and the last row of material:

this strip is attached to the sheathing;
the distance from this bar is measured to the last attached row;
siding of the required size is cut with a grinder;
bending the strip horizontally, It starts up neatly under the bar.

By adhering to this sequence of work and observing the main features of its implementation, attaching the siding is simple. The result of finishing a building with this material will not disappoint.

DIY vinyl siding installation: final moments

At this stage, the installation of pediments is carried out. The principle of performing all the work is similar to cladding the walls of a building:

the starting strip is strengthened;
J-profile is mounted;
siding strips are attached.

If the length of the material is insufficient, a connecting strip is used. Its location should be considered so that it does not pass through a window or doorway, and also to prevent large trimmings.

Sheathing of gables can be done in any direction. If the pediment differs from the wall, then their cladding is separated from each other by a horizontal H-molding. If the pediment has a protrusion inward, then the finishing of the wall should end with the finish, and the finishing of the pediment should begin with the aquilon and the starting panel.

When carrying out work on fastening siding panels, you must remember:

this material tends to change its size with temperature fluctuations;
its required volume in m2 can be determined by measuring the perimeter of the building, multiplying by the height;

How to install vinyl siding?

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