Reversible plow for a walk-behind tractor: homemade plow for a walk-behind cultivator - drawings with dimensions. Making a manual plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands How to make a transfer plow for a mole cultivator

Some home-made people try to make a plow with their own hands, copying it from a tractor or horse-drawn plow. Often such an attempt ended in failure, not because the masters lacked patience and will, but because of the lack necessary knowledge about the geometry of the plow body.

A little theory

A dihedral wedge with an alpha angle separates the layer from the bottom of the furrow, lifts it, compresses it in a vertical plane and splits it into separate parts. The greater the alpha angle, the more the wedge bends and crumbles the separated layer. However, when the alpha angle increases to 45°, the soil stops sliding along the upper edge of the wedge and begins to “unload” in front of the wedge. A dihedral wedge with a gamma angle (γ), oriented vertically, separates the formation from the wall of the furrow, moves the soil to the side and compresses it in the horizontal plane.

A dihedral wedge with an angle beta (β) is designed to deflect the formation to the side, turning it over.

However, in order to transfer the formation from a horizontal position to an inclined one and turn it over, the beta angle of the wedge must vary from 25° to 130°, that is, the surface of the wedge must be curved. The complex impact on the formation of three dihedral wedges will replace one trihedral wedge, which is an AMBO tetrahedron with three mutually perpendicular faces VOM, AOM and AOB.

When moving the trihedral wedge in the direction of the X axis, edge AB cuts off the layer from the bottom of the furrow, edge VM from the wall of the furrow, and edge ABM takes the layer to the side, crumbles and wraps it.

To ensure plowing of the soil, the triangular wedge is converted into a curved plowshare-mouldboard surface of the plow body, which is characterized by continuously changing angles alpha, gamma, and beta.

Let us recall that the working parts of the plow are: a ploughshare, cutting the layer from below; a blade for wrapping and crumbling the formation, a field board - a plow support that rests on the bottom of the furrow. The moldboard, ploughshare, field board, as well as the stand, with the help of which the previously listed plow organs are attached, make up the body of the plow. Moving in the soil along the X-axis, the plow body with a curved surface cuts off the layer, lifts it, deforms it, crumbles it, wraps it and dumps it into an open furrow. Of the many technological operations performed by a plow, the main one, from the point of view of agricultural technology, is the turnover and crumbling of the formation, the intensity of which is determined by the values ​​and intensity of changes in the angles alpha, gamma, and beta, that is, the actual shape of the working surface of the moldboard of the plow body.

a - plowing depth; b - width of the formation of the plow body

The surfaces of the dumps can be cylindrical, cylindrical (resembling cylindrical) and helical. A plow with a cylindrical surface crumbles and mixes soil layers well, but does not turn the layer well, which does not meet the requirements of agricultural technology. Therefore, plows with cylindrical body surfaces are not used for plowing the land. Of greatest interest is the plow with a cylindrical moldboard surface. This surface is characterized by an intensive increase in both the crumbling angle alpha (from α 0 =25° to α max =130°) and the formation wrapping angle beta (from β 0 = 25°...35° to β max =100°. ..130°). The gamma shift angle varies within small limits from (from γ 0 =35°...42° to γ ​​max =45°...50°).

Making a plow

ploughshare. The plow share must be removable (for sharpening before plowing); it would be better to make it from alloy steel 9ХС (disc circular saw). 45 steel, hardened to a hardness of HRC 50-55, is also suitable. If only carbon steel of ordinary quality is available, for example, St. 5, which is not “heat-treated,” it can also be made to satisfactorily cut a layer of earth if, before plowing, the cutting part of the ploughshare is beaten on an anvil in a cold state, like a scythe, and sharpened.

The first version of the blade manufacturing. As mentioned above, the working surface of the blade must have a cylindrical surface. If there are sheet bending rollers, give the workpiece the required form will not be difficult. To do this, a blade blank 3-4 mm thick, cut from steel (gas-electric welding, scissors), is fed to the rollers at an angle of 20°-23°, bent, and then refined with a hammer according to the template.

Second option. The blade can be made from steel pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm, the wall thickness of which is 4-5 mm. In this case, first a dump template is made from thick cardboard, then the template is placed on the pipe, making sure that there is an angle of 20-23° between the lower generatrix of the blade and the generatrix of the pipe cylinder. The contour of the blade is outlined with chalk, then the blade is cut out using gas welding and processed using emery. If necessary, the shape of the blade is modified with a hammer, focusing on the template.

Blade shape from a pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm (wall thickness 4-5 mm)

Third option. The most labor-intensive way to produce a moldboard is when its workpiece has to be heated in a forge (or in another way), and then bent along a matrix (a moldboard from a tractor plow is suitable for the latter).

The plow body is made of sheet steel St.3-St.10 with a thickness of 3 mm.

a - ploughshare, alloy steel; b - side shield of the rack, St3; c - spacer plate, St3; g - plow base plate, St3; d - field board, corner 30x30 mm; e - stand, pipe with a diameter of 42 mm

It is recommended to first make the plow elements from thick cardboard and glue them together, maintaining the appropriate angles. Thus, the value of the alpha and beta angles in different parts of the body will be from 25° to 130°, the gamma angle - from 42° to 50°. If a homemade plow made of cardboard satisfies you in all respects, feel free to tackle metal.

When metal elements the plows will be ready, to assemble the body you will need a metal (steel) sheet 2-3 mm thick and 500x500 mm in size, and you will also need a welding machine. On the metal sheet, stepping back 40 mm from the edges, we set the angle γ 0.

Plow assembly: 1 - ploughshare; 2 - side shield of the rack; 3 - metal sheet 2-3 mm

Using wedges with an angle α 0 =25°, we install a plowshare on a metal sheet and attach it to the sheet by welding on both sides. We bring the side shield of the rack under the ploughshare, making sure that it is positioned vertically and extends beyond the edge of the ploughshare by 5-8 mm, while the rack shield should be located above the blade of the ploughshare (that is, above the sheet) by 6-10 mm, so that do not interfere with the blade of the ploughshare cutting the layer of earth. The shield is also lightly welded to both the ploughshare and the metal sheet.

Then we try on the blade to the ploughshare, which should fit tightly with the ploughshare, without gaps, so that the surfaces of the blade and the ploughshare form one whole. The angle between the ploughshare blade and the upper edge of the blade is equal to the difference between the angles γ max and γ 0 and should be 6-8°.

1 - ploughshare; 2 - countersunk head screw M8; 3 - blade; 4 - base plate; 5 - corner 30x30x90 mm; 6 - M8 nut

If a discrepancy between the corners and/or surfaces is detected, the blade is modified with a hammer. Having adjusted the blade to the ploughshare, it is welded to the ploughshare (from the back), as well as to the side shield. Next, a spacer bar and a base plate are welded to the side shield, and the thrust corners for the ploughshare are again attached to the latter. The plow is inspected again and finally welded, while the metal sheet on which the plow was assembled is disconnected from the body using a chisel or “grinder” with a cutting disc. The thrust corners for attaching the plowshare are thoroughly welded to the base plate. Then the welds are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are treated with sandpaper.

In order for the plow to be “self-propelled” and “hold the furrow” itself, it is necessary to adapt a 2-wheeled block to it.

1 - field wheel; 2 - beam; 3 - furrow wheel; 4 - plow body; 5 - handle; 6 - wheel axle; 7 - channel plow adjustment plate

A furrow wheel with a diameter of 320 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is made from a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick. A field wheel with a diameter of 200 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is cut from the same material. The wheel axle is made of 3/4-inch tubing. On one side, the pipe is bent at an angle of 90° and a sleeve is welded to the bent end to install the furrow wheel. A field wheel is attached to the other end of the pipe. The wheel axle is also made composite (the figure above shows a composite axle). The pipe itself is welded to the plow beam (a pipe with a diameter of 42 mm).

The depth of plowing with the plow will be 200-240 mm, that is, it will be approximately equal to the vertical distance from the toe of the ploughshare to the field wheel (see figure above). The plowing width, equal to 220-250 mm, depends on the distance (horizontally) from the tip of the ploughshare to the furrow wheel. Those who want to make the plow adjustable in terms of plowing depth and the working width of the soil layer (towards a decrease), it is necessary to ensure that the field wheel can be moved vertically, and the furrow wheel can be moved horizontally, and also fix the wheels in the desired position. To ensure stability of the plow during plowing, it is necessary to provide for adjustment of the point at which the plow is attached to the cable (if the plow is moved using an electric winch) or to the hook (if the draft force is a horse). To make it easier to find the optimal attachment point for the plow, the easiest way is to take a steel plate 6-8 mm thick (or better yet, a channel) measuring 120x160 mm, drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10 mm in it and weld the plate to the plow beam. The picture below shows an adjustment plate that is attached to a wheel block with a composite axle for the wheels.

a - plate; b - fastening the plate (channel) to the beam; c - loop

The plow works best with an electric winch, because the cable pulls the plow strictly horizontally. When a plow is pulled by a horse, there is a vertical component of the pulling force that lifts the wheel unit upward. Moreover, the taller the horse and the closer the plow is attached to it, the greater this vertical component of the force. When initially connecting the plow to the pulling unit, tie the cable to the adjustment plate, stepping back from the row by 60-90 mm towards the furrow wheel. The first furrow in the arable land is made at half the plowing depth to reduce bending forces. When passing the second furrow, having traveled 5 m, you must stop and look at the cut of the furrow; the field board should leave a clear mark on it, which will indicate that the plow is interacting correctly with the soil. If the mark is not noticeable, move the attachment point to the left wheel by 30-60 mm, if the mark is excessive, move the point to the furrow wheel. If the plow does not want to go deep, move the attachment point above the beam by 30-60 mm, and if it is too deep, lower the plow attachment point.

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Anyone can make a plow with their own hands, you just need to prepare the parts and follow the algorithm. Having mastered production technology, you will be able to open profitable business! Our 3D models will help you with this, as well as detailed information on each stage of production. Everything is even simpler than you think!

How to make a plow for a walk-behind tractor and a walk-behind tractor with your own hands

First, let's look at a plow for a walk-behind tractor or a mini tractor, which you can make with your own hands according to the drawings. For visual analysis of the device, we recommend it free of charge.

This plow is aggregated with agricultural machinery of traction class 0.2. These can be heavy walk-behind tractors or mini tractors:

• Belarus-082;
• Belarus-112;
• Belarus-132N;
• Belarus-08K;
• KMZ-012, T-0.2 (Uralets);
• HTZ-8 (Prykarpatets).

Brief specifications plow PN-2-20:

• working width – 0.4 m;
• tillage depth – up to 25cm;
• productivity – up to 0.05 ha/hour;
• weight of the structure – 67 kg.

Cultivating a large plot of land is a labor-intensive and energy-consuming process, which cannot be done without the use of technical devices. Thanks to the plow, the soil can be properly prepared for sowing, as well as processed to get rid of weeds and dead wood after harvesting.

The plow is attached to mechanized equipment, which, through high draft force, sets the unit in motion. While working with the plow upper layer the soil is lifted with a ploughshare, and then simply turns over. This allows you not only to loosen the soil, but also to improve its aeration. Moreover, tillage with a plow destroys up to 90% of the weeds growing on the site!

How to make this useful unit, which is necessary in every household? First you need to take care of purchasing the necessary high-quality materials. For the plow blades you will need steel about 5 millimeters thick. The plowshare itself should be made removable so that it can be periodically taken out and sharpened. For the body, use hardened steel, which can be treated with anti-corrosion solutions before welding.

To make a special functional plow blade, be sure to adhere to the following recommendations:

1. Cut a cylindrical shape from a metal sheet work surface dump.
2. Using a sheet bender, the cut parts are bent by 22-23 degrees, while the latter are strictly adjusted to required form and size.
3. Please note that the size is hollow metal pipe for a blade it is about 55-59 centimeters in length. The wall thickness should not exceed 5 millimeters.
4. The blade blank itself must be preheated in order to then perform matrix bending.

The actual housing for the circle can be made from a metal sheet with a thickness of at least 3-4 millimeters. A square with sides of 50 by 50 centimeters is cut out of it, to which you need to successively attach a ploughshare, side shields and a blade. At the same time, ensure strict adherence to the required angles between the plow components. The presence of gaps or inaccuracies during installation can have a detrimental effect on the durability of the unit. Having welded all the parts together, you need to clean the seams, and it is advisable to sand the plowshare with the blade to avoid rust.

When you have mastered all the intricacies of making a plow for walk-behind tractors and mini tractors, you can move on to more complex tasks.

Reversible plow 5 body on T-150 (PLP-5-35):

This is a 3D model of a 5-hull reversible trailed plow PLP-5-35 for the T-150 tractor or other tractors with traction class 3 and higher. Using this 3D model of a plow for production, you will not need drawings. The structure was disassembled into more than 100 parts down to the smallest detail. The project was created in 3D CAD file format *.STEP. This format is supported by many CAD editors, including the free FreeCAD.

Note. Working with the STEP format in FreeCAD is not very convenient. The program requires a lot of computer resources to load all the details of the device. Just opening a file on an average laptop takes about 10 minutes. If possible, use the paid professional AutoCAD program.

How to properly adjust a plow

Thanks to the fact that you make a plow with your own hands, you have the opportunity to adjust the dimensions of the ploughshare and blade to all the parameters you need. You can easily adjust the width or depth of the plow depending on what kind of work needs to be done on the field, in the garden and in the garden. You can also adjust the plow parameters taking into account the power of your tractor (or walk-behind tractor). This will allow you to use the assembled unit with maximum utility, avoiding overheating or breakdown of traction equipment.

Plow setting steps:

1. Tighten the nuts on the fasteners, but do not overtighten.
2. We fix the plow with the mount using two metal pins.
3. We carry out balancing by setting desired angle tilt
4. We check the quality of the plow's work field conditions, and if necessary, adjust the initially set parameters.

Remember that meticulous and precise adjustment will allow you to complete all the necessary work much faster and more efficiently with less fuel consumption!

Is it possible to dig potatoes with a plow?

Many experienced farmers use a plow to harvest potatoes. This way they make their life much easier, eliminating the need to dig up hundreds, or even thousands, of potato tubers. The only question that arises is which plow to dig potatoes with?

For this purpose, special plows with deep blades are used. But with this method, it is extremely important to take into account the depth at which the potatoes grow. Otherwise, you risk losing a certain percentage of the collected goods. To avoid unpleasant consequences, the plow must be precisely adjusted to work in specific conditions.

Having made a reversible plow with your own hands, you long years Make your life easier during gardening and field work. And having mastered the business of manufacturing and selling this unit, you will certainly gain a stable income. It's time to open your own business!

Making plows at home as a business

A reversible 2- or 5-furrow plow can be easily constructed with your own hands if you have all the parts of the device. Wherein financial investments will be quite accessible. Having mastered the process of manufacturing products, you should begin to implement a business idea for selling plows made by yourself. This business is quite profitable. According to experts, the profitability of such a business is about 70%. Therefore, by choosing this direction, you can secure a profitable home business!

This problem probably occurs for many gardeners and vegetable gardeners. Available small plot There is one or three acres of land, and it needs to be plowed. It’s a chore to shovel, the horse is nowhere to be found now, the tractor won’t get in. Buying a cultivator for a buck and using it for an hour a year is a toad's crush. I started digging around the Internet - is it really a hand plow, just our invention - and what did the greedy bourgeoisie come up with?

It turns out that the bourgeoisie had such a device for a long time, but they used it only for subsequent improvements to the land - surface cultivation, shallow hilling, making furrows during planting. That is, to manually pull a plow over the turf instead of a horse by two people, this is not observed there. It’s probably better for several owners to come together in the area and buy a walk-behind tractor. This is how collective farms and socialism appear, which is also not encouraging. And this is how they plowed; women in a Dutch field 1919 Use hand plows to make furrows for planting poppies:

At the beginning of the 20th century, hand plows with large wheels were made almost en masse:

The bourgeoisie used the same principle to make hand cultivators.

Now let's look at our handicrafts. Due to the increasing need hand plows, they began to be produced at almost every factory. The designs of such a product are almost identical for all and are intended for use as a burden for an over-aged child, who will do physical exercise on one hundred square meters and help his parents. It looks like this:

These designs are constantly being improved by both enterprises and craftsmen. Rollers and discs are installed, and either a rope or a pipe with a cross member is used as traction. A bicycle frame can be used:

A very interesting Belarusian homemade product, I liked the shape of the hand plow – hiller:

In parallel with such searches, I found an antique American manual lawn mower. Everything is primitive - a pair of knives, two wheels. And also the hand harrow of the old cowboys. Maybe someone will try:

Here it is, a drawing of a hand plow:

I’ll write another article in the do-it-yourself repair series. This time we are repairing a lawn mower trimmer. The start button on this important summer power tool has broken down, probably a hare mowed it down...

There is snow all around. It is vital to ensure access to your home. You need to find the strength within yourself and replace your computer with a snow shovel. It’s even better to organize the younger generation for such work, and provide for yourself...

I won't get into an argument about which is better, a trimmer or a lawnmower. They are tools designed for different purposes. And if you have more than three acres of lawn with trees, then it’s better...

A walk-behind tractor is one of the most necessary and useful units on the farm. It is used for the most various works Location on. This technique can significantly simplify many business procedures. More functional and multitasking are walk-behind tractors, supplemented various designs. For example, this could be a technique with a plow. The latter can be bought in a store, or you can build it yourself. It must be done following certain rules.

Dimensions

Dimensions different types plows may vary. You can consider the parameters of parts using the example of a rotary specimen. It is taken into account that the rotary type of such a device is assembled from the following bases:

• side vertical part of the runner;
• horizontal plane below the skid;
• front dump part.

The most productive is considered to be a plow in which the cutting edge at the bottom of the fixed share is 20 mm below the bottom of the horizontal skid. Another correctly aligned part of the plow is the matching of the cutting edge on the side of the fixed share with the cutting edge on the side of the moldboard. The share and blade should not protrude more than 10 mm beyond the boundaries of the vertical plane on the side of the skid.

There is one more important nuance– fastening of the frontal plane of the blade share without visible cracks and gaps, and in the same plane. If we look at these parts in more detail, they should be well polished and, like a mirror, reflect any surface. There should be no protruding fasteners under any circumstances. As soon as the plow returns from earthworks, it is advisable to clean it from settled soil and foreign particles. Elements that have been polished should be poured with oil or coated with grease. Next, the mechanisms need to be rubbed using a rag. In this way, it will be possible to protect the structure from aggressive external influences, which can lead to the formation of corrosion on the surface of the plow.

As for the 4th correctly constructed structure, it includes the flat front surface of the ploughshare, which makes an angle of 20 degrees with the flat part of the plow structure. It will be equal to the angle located at the rear of the exposed share. The cutting sidewalls-edges of the plowshare and blade will also have 20-degree angles with their bases on the side of the furrow. Moreover, the edge located on the side of the blade may be slightly rounded.

Blueprints

If you decide to build a blade or plow for motor vehicles, then you cannot do without drawing up detailed and correct drawings. The reliability and wear resistance of a homemade part largely depends on its well-designed design. Based on the rich experience of professionals who regularly produce good plows for walk-behind tractors, It is recommended to make the plowshare in such a way that it can be easily and quickly removed. With this function, sharpening this part will be significantly simplified, and you can safely resort to it before plowing the land on the site.

For the manufacture of the cutting component of the plow, 9XC alloy steel is best suited. The material is used mainly to make discs intended for simple hand saws. You can use steel marked 45, which was brought to the optimal level of hardness during the hardening process. If you only have simple steel, for example, carbon, which cannot be heat treated, then by removing the cutting edge part (using an anvil), and then grinding it off, you can safely use the steel for working with the soil.

When independently drawing up a drawing of the future plow, it is recommended to rely on accurate diagrams. The DIY structure will be assembled from the following components:

• a metal pipe that acts as a load-bearing part;
• wheels necessary to move the structure on the ground;
• working cutting part with or without blades (you can fix the cutting elements of old devices);
• attachment mechanism to the walk-behind tractor itself.

When drawing up a drawing of a future plow, it is important to indicate in it the parameters of the future design. No element is left unattended. In this case, when using the circuit, you will get a high-quality and reliable device.

How to do it?

Modern models walk-behind tractors can be equipped with a reliable plow made by yourself. Varieties of this element: double-turn, reversible, two-body, rotary or Zykov’s product. There are quite a lot of design options. There are even options in which the body is made of a gas cylinder. It’s not difficult to make a high-quality plow for motorcycles yourself if you follow certain rules.

Rotary

Manufacturing of the structure can be divided into several main stages.

• Prepare a good dump in the shape of a cylinder. This must be done exclusively in accordance with the drawing. The part is made of alloy metal. It is important to follow the drawing when self-production designs.
• They put out the ploughshare. The wedges are inserted into the iron sheet (3 mm) at an angle of 45 degrees.
• Connect the ploughshare to the shield on the side. Be sure to ensure that the blade of the ploughshare is located just below the shield itself (1 cm, no more).
• Attach the blade to the ploughshare.
• It is welded to a metal tube that serves as a base using welding machine working half with ploughshare. On the opposite side - fasteners for motorcycles.
• When the plow is ready, you can weld an axle with wheels in its lower half.

Turning

The rotating type of plow is rightfully recognized as one of the most functional and practical. This design is an excellent assistant for plowing land on a site, because it can cover a fairly large area. The plow is also good because you don’t have to waste time with it after each approach. You will only need to turn the plow and move in the opposite direction. The productivity of equipment will increase significantly. The main actions are performed in the same way as in the case of rotary mechanism, but in this case the cutting elements must be below the skid (at least 2 cm).

Disk

It is possible to assemble a disc plow for machinery with your own hands. A similar model is assembled from the following parts:

• disks;
• fist;
• bracket;
• scraper;
• drive beam;
• pens;
• screeds.

The disks for the device can be taken from an old “seeder”, if you have one in your arsenal. These elements are installed at an angle to increase work productivity. The hiller is hung on the equipment through the coupling bracket. The T-shaped leash from the plow is screwed to it using bolts and a stopper. At impressive speeds, the hiller may begin to slip, so you will have to work exclusively at low speeds or with twin wheels.

How to remake a finished plow?

An already finished plow can always be remade if necessary. For example, a simple horse version can be easily changed to a walk-behind tractor. Almost all horse plows are distinguished by their impressive weight due to the presence of a heavy blade. If such an element is installed on a walk-behind tractor without prior modification, the earth simply will not be discarded. To convert a horse plow into a walk-behind plow, work is carried out in a certain sequence.

• They are building a dump. Prepare for it in advance detailed drawing. Based on the diagram, a blade is cut out of a steel blank. It is advisable to prepare a cardboard template for this.
• The steel is given the required shape.
• They remove the horse moldboard and fix a hand-made part in its place.
• Remove the handles that were on a vertically oriented axis.
• Instead, they are fixed with metal fasteners. Through them the plow is attached to the motorized equipment.

If during the “tests” in the field it suddenly turns out that the device does not tilt the ground very well, then you can carefully bend the ploughshare so that it can cut into the soil more strongly.

Installation and adjustment

After completing the construction of the plow, it should be fixed to the walk-behind tractor. But before that, preparatory measures are carried out:

• moving the walk-behind tractor to the place where they plan to operate it;
• dismantling the wheel drive - it must be replaced with special lugs (if they are not installed, then the plow will not be suitable for planting potatoes - the equipment will slip and may “bury itself” in the ground).

After this stage, they proceed to installing the plow.

• The plow is attached to the hitch of agricultural machinery using nuts. Thanks to this, it will be possible to independently set its performance characteristics.
• Prepare 2 fastening pins. With their help, the couplings and the plow itself are attached to the shackle.

Having completed the preparation, they begin to adjust the installed plow. It is this stage that will determine how efficient both the plow and the walk-behind tractor itself will be. For correct installation design, attention should be paid to:

• width;
• plowing depth;
• incline.

The setup takes place step by step.

• The width is set at the extreme sections. To this end, the edge should in no case move below or above the toe.
• The equipment is placed as stably as possible on special stands to make it possible to set the depth required for plowing. We must not forget that this parameter may vary depending on the time of year.
• It is necessary to carefully adjust the attachment of the plow to the equipment.
• Bolting is carried out in such a way that the rear half of the plow is located in line with the soil.
• Now the agricultural machinery can be removed from the stand.

If you decide to build a good plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, then worth listening to useful recommendations from experienced craftsmen.

• If you plan to build a double-furrow plow, then you should remember that it must have two shares. The specified device can be used for plowing soils various types. This is the best specimen for working with stagnant soil.
• When making a rotary plow, it is very important to ensure that the edges of the moldboard and the ploughshare coincide. These elements are connected as tightly and firmly as possible. There should be no gaps or noticeable cracks.
• After using the plow, it must be cleaned of any dirt and adhering particles. Only if you comply of this rule we can talk about the durability of the structure and its wear resistance. And then you won’t have to constantly sharpen the cutting plate.
• It will be much more convenient to install the plow on the agricultural machinery itself if you place the walk-behind tractor on stands. These can be not only special supports, but also simple bricks or stones/boards.
• Particular attention is paid to the already constructed plow. If it has only one bolted connection and only one hole, then it will not be adjustable.