Plowing the soil is the main operation in agricultural land use. Plowing the land is hard, and the mechanization of small agricultural farms can only be welcomed: it makes the work of the owners easier and gives them the opportunity to handle the land more carefully. But, unfortunately, the plows included with walk-behind tractors and mini-tractors are not of high quality and durability, and purchased ones are either the same, if not worse, or are disproportionately expensive. Meanwhile, in the conditions of private household plots, it is quite possible to make a plow with your own hands: private owners are successfully mastering the independent production of plows (see figure) for mini tractors, heavy and light walk-behind tractors and agricultural winches; Manual plowing, for example, for planting potatoes, is still far out of use. This already gives 2-5 times savings in money compared to buying a plow with a “reputation”.

And for plowing the smallest areas (dacha, personal plot), a simple plow can be made even from scrap metal, see for example. video below:

Video: a simple plow made from scrap metal

• To provide the reader with information that allows him to determine which plow is best for him to plow his land - there are dozens of types of agricultural plows alone that have been tested in practice;
• Give him information that will enable him to move on to independent study of more detailed sources, and, based on the knowledge gained, to construct a plow for himself;
• Also, without diving deep into the technical jungle, choose a prototype for making a plow yourself; possibly from the following drawings and descriptions.

Let's get our bearings first. to make a plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands. The walk-behind tractor is the optimal traction unit for small private household plots. Motoblocks are produced for a wide variety of power and traction force - from comparable to the T-40 to approx. 0.5 kW, which is close to the combined hourly power of a pair of strong men. We will consider plows for cultural plowing (for sowing/planting agricultural crops) and raising soil in a newly allocated and developed area. Plowing furrows, for example, for planting potatoes, is carried out with agricultural implements of a different class - plowers (furrowers).

Note: horse-drawn plows are not considered further, because useless without a strong trained and experienced workhorse.

Guys, learn the materiel (theory)

This is a phrase from an old joke. War, Soviet ace. Flies intuitively: handle, pedals, gas, sight, trigger, flap valves and landing gear; the rest is up to the mechanics. Suddenly a check - he puts on his entire iconostasis with the Star of the Hero, and they don’t bother him. They shot him down somehow and was captured. He managed to escape and returned to his own people. The young lieutenants surrounded: “Well, well, Comrade Major! How is it, being in captivity? He scratched the back of his head and shook his head: “Guys, learn the materiel! Oh, and they ask!” The land from an illiterate, careless owner can be asked not as painfully as the Gestapo, but no less strictly and sensitively.

Earth and plow

Historians and archaeologists currently know at least 6 proto-civilizations only in the Old World; with American ones there will be up to a dozen or more. Of these, only China has survived to this day, largely thanks to the unique soils of the Yellow River Valley, see below. Ancient Egypt and Sumer had a decisive influence on the course of history; the rest were either destroyed or disappeared into oblivion. The reason in most cases is irrational land use. The consequences are actually of geological proportions. The once grain-producing and prosperous Sogdo-Bactrian culture left behind vast expanses of badlands - lands eaten away by erosion, unsuitable for any use.

IN historical times There were also plenty of losers of the same kind. One of the main causes of death Ancient Rome Researchers call land degradation, along with the depletion of gold deposits and chronic lead poisoning from water pipes. The Romans were generally very attentive to agricultural technology. But at that time there were no draft horses. Saving on feed for oxen, which pull worse and eat more than a workhorse, the Romans plowed fully cultivated lands with a heavy Celtic plow, designed for raising soil in slash-and-shift agriculture. The initial productivity of Italian lands is well known to historical sources; It was possible to restore it only in late XIX V.

The story continues to this day. In the post-Soviet space, areas that once consistently yielded 30-40 centners of wheat grain per hectare are now harvested at 14-15 centners, and this is considered a good harvest. According to official US statistics, up to 80% of the arable land there has either lost productivity or is irreversibly degraded; terrible doses of agrochemicals only slow down this process.

It is now recognized that the main cause of degradation of productive lands is improper plowing and/or the use of plows unsuitable for the given soil. The plow must, simply put, disturb the soil so that it itself, or with the help of additional cultivation, is completely restored during the growing season. The main factors of “earth anxiety” are voids, cracks and depressions that do not heal or do not close during the agricultural year, and zones of anaerobic rotting in plowed soil. The residual effects of improper basic treatment accumulate over time - fertility decreases, surface and deep erosion begins, weeds with pests and plant diseases increasingly attack, despite any pesticides. Proper plowing of a given land with a plow suitable for it can stop this process or push its consequences into the distant future; the wrong one can ruin the earth in just a few years. Modern agricultural technology offers farmers a wide selection of plows for various types of plowing of a wide variety of soils; We will deal with those that you can do yourself in a home workshop.

Types of plowing

Depending on local conditions and soil properties, various types of cultural and fall plowing are used, incl. vintage traditional. In Russian private household plots the land is plowed mainly in 5 ways, i.e. 5 main plowing schemes are used.

Traditional herringbone plowing with a single-share (single-furrow) plow with incomplete rotation of the layer, pos. 1 in the figure, faithfully served the peasants for many millennia. But the reduction in productive areas per eater required intensive use of agrochemicals; Currently, the productive areas, including the needs of livestock and fish farming, remain on Earth about. 20 acres per person; in the Russian Federation - less than half a hectare. At the same time, the land plowed “in the traditional way” turned out to be susceptible to erosion, and the voids under the layers became refuges for pests, pathogens and weeds. Erosion in in this case can be avoided if there is a reserve of traction of the power unit, and the ground is not too wet - harrowing is carried out simultaneously with plowing, see fig. below. But with reserves the situation is worse - pressing down on plowing causes anaerobic processes, and the soil suffocates.

Plowing the soil simultaneously with harrowing

Note: The picture above is both a deliberate optical illusion. The tractor driver pulled his T-shirt over the back of the seat and got out of the car. It turned out that there was a headless horseman on a steel horse.

The first way out of the situation was found with the beginning of agricultural mechanization: plowing with multi-furrow plows, pos. 3 in Fig. higher. This optimized the voids under the layers for aeration, but not for nesting of harmful organisms. However, the layers of adjacent rows piled on top of each other like a house or formed a hollow; the first created a reserve of unwanted animals; the second is a source of erosion. Using special plowing techniques, both were avoided, but the energy and labor intensity of tillage became unsatisfactory over time, despite the increase in the number of plow bodies to 20 (!), and soil degradation was still observed.

Currently, a progressive method of plowing productive lands is considered to be plowing with a rotary plow, (not to be confused with a reversible plow, see below), pos. 3 in Fig. above and below rice.

The rotary plow has 2 rows of plowing bodies, with a right and left moldboard. When the traction unit turns to pass the next strip, the bodies (or their rows) are turned over 180 degrees along the axis of the grade (the plow's spinal power beam). Thus, the dump of soil layers in all strips/rows of plowing goes in one direction, and the crests of the layers and the voids under them turn out to be the same. To plow with a multi-body rotary plow, you need a tractor with a special hydraulic system - in addition to conventional hydraulic cylinders, there is also a stepper hydraulic motor for a rotation step of 180 degrees. A rotary plow for a walk-behind tractor or mini-tractor with 1-2 bodies (which in this case is a pair of identical ordinary bodies in a mirror image) can be rotated manually.

Note: using the methods described above, they plow with cultural plows - ordinary, pos. And in Fig. on the right, or high-speed, pos. B. A specialist should give a recommendation for high-speed plowing, but in small private plots it is better not to get carried away with it at all, see below.

When the earth is upside down

Plowing with full rotation of the formation, pos. 4 in Fig. above, the prem. on the recommendation of specialists in 2 cases: in regions subject to wind erosion, and/or as measures for the reclamation of compacted lands, depleted by intensive use. Indications for plowing with full rotation of the formation are:

• The location of the site is in an arid zone, i.e. the average annual evaporation must exceed the average annual precipitation.
• Dry soil - if sand drilling in your area finds high water closer than 7 m to the surface, you cannot plow with a full rotation of the formation.
• The area must be free from pests, phytopathogens and quarantine weeds.
• Annual insolation is no lower than in the black earth zone of the Russian Federation.
• The thickness of the fertile layer (if any) is no more than the maximum plowing depth; usually up to 25 cm.
• The turf is either absent or weak, sparse, and not vegetative by the time of plowing.
• The underlying parent rock (materka) is dense, low permeable, well and deeply structured, i.e. not subject to deep erosion.

However, only a specialist should give a recommendation for plowing with full rotation of the formation. It is under no circumstances recommended to plow in this way at your own discretion, “from scratch” - degradation of soil unsuitable for such cultivation can begin literally in the current season. The worst thing here is the likelihood of deep water soil erosion (suffusion). Sudden deep sinkholes over large areas in places that are in no way susceptible to karst phenomena (for example, in the Novgorod region) are almost always observed where several years ago they plowed with a full rotation of the layer.

To revive the soil

For reclamation, they plow with a full rotation of the formation using a plow with a semi-screw (see figure on the right and below) or screw blade. The first is used on more or less cohesive soils (not very crumbly); the second on loose soils. Plowing for reclamation is necessarily accompanied by other measures of the same purpose:

1. By adding humus mixed with sand, compost, humates.
2. Sowing green manure (live fertilizer) nitrogen-fixing crops (eg legumes).
3. Proper soil cultivation during the growing season.
4. Irrigation or sprinkling over an area (not drip irrigation!), compensating for the difference in evaporation and moisture entering the soil; an alternative is the addition of hydrogel or zeolites.
5. Population of soil-forming organisms: earthworms, etc.

Anti-weathering

Anti-erosion plowing with a full rotation of the layer (the so-called smooth) is carried out with the same plows, depending on the soil structure and in compliance with the same initial conditions, plus careful harrowing. Of the subsequent ones, sufficient soil moisture and cultivation must certainly be observed, but measures for its reclamation will not harm. Anti-erosion plowing is effective only against surface erosion, mainly. wind, but does not save you from deep water - the slightest crack in the material exposed to it can become a source of suffusion!

Are we plowing or cultivating?

Smooth plowing, but without soil rotation (non-mouldboard, position 5 in the figure above) is actually soil cultivation as its main tillage. It is carried out on fertile soils that have a great potential for self-healing, but are dense, low permeable and uniform, but too finely structured to a great depth, for example. alluvial. Recommendations for moldless plowing are also given only by a specialist, because in this case, improper plowing will almost certainly cause surface water erosion and soil leaching. The latter is also fraught with the fact that it can cause salinization of adjacent areas, for which the owner of the unfavorable area will have to answer. Loose soils suitable for this are plowed using the no-moldboard method, for example. mountain alluvium, with a moldless plow (pos. A in the figure below), and denser ones (river alluvium) with a cutting plow, pos. B right there.

A special case

There are known types of exceptionally fertile soils that have 100% self-healing ability. As a rule, when dry they are light in color and highly cohesive (hard as stone). When wetted without treatment, they lose cohesion but become impenetrable (turn into sticky mud). Classic example– loess soils of China. Pour them even with ammonal, but they don’t care. Winter winds, which are deadly for unaccustomed people, will still bring from the surrounding mountains the finest mineral dust, saturated with nutrients for plants, and compact it into a dry mass (the climate is monsoon) with a strength of approx. like concrete M150, in which nothing harmful can start. In order for this solid to become a fertile substrate for plants, it must be broken into pieces and crushed at the very beginning of the rainy season. This is what a chisel plow does, see fig.

It differs from a chisel cultivator in the spear-shaped (not arrow-shaped) knife, which is the chisel itself, and in the horizontal arrangement of stiffer elastic feathers that shake the incised layer.

Note: Chisel hilling of potatoes is widely used because with a minimum selection of soil from the inter-row spaces, it pours a high, loose ridge onto the rows, which is what the potatoes need. But chisel plowing is very disturbing for soil that is unsuitable for it due to all factors (see above). There are no large areas of loess-like soils within the Russian Federation, and those available are not allocated for private plots - they are too valuable for non-professional use. Therefore, if you think that your land can be plowed with chisel, be sure to call a specialist for an inspection. It will cost a pretty penny, but there will be more losses from the destroyed land.

How else can you plow, but you don’t have to

In professional agricultural technology, disc and rotary plowing are often used. The body of a disc plow is the same disc of the same cultivator (possibly with wide teeth along the edge). The geometry of a rotary plow is technologically simple (see figure), and there is a great temptation to make it yourself.

But - both plowing is carried out to improve the cultivation or reclamation of initially dead or dying lands (swampy, compacted from erosion, waste). Ordinary fertile layer it is a structured and stratified (layered) living formation. Disc and rotary plowing mix it into a homogeneous mass, and the soil can do nothing but die. Maybe not this year, but there’s still no need to plow private household plots with disks and a rotor.

Equipment at work

General diagrams of the design of plowshare plows for small agricultural farms are given in Fig. below. The main parts of a single-body plow for a walk-behind tractor (pos. A), in addition to the plowing body, can be made from corrugated pipe from 60x60x3 and sheet steel from S(3...4). The lateral tilt regulator compensates for the heeling moment from the plow; Using the longitudinal tilt regulator, the optimal dump for a given soil is set. The coupling is rigid (see below), i.e. This plow is trailed. Trailed plows are the least maneuverable, but for a light walk-behind tractor with a single-body plow this is not significant.

Mini tractors and heavy walk-behind tractors are pulled, with a plowing depth of up to 25 cm, plows with 3-4 bodies (pos. B), many of them are equipped with a hydraulic plow lift to the transport position - this means that the plow for a mini tractor or heavy walk-behind tractor is semi-mounted, and the coupling is with one degree of freedom (lifting and lowering). The most maneuverable mounted plows on a free ball hitch are equipped with large traction units with advanced hydraulics.

On the other hand, several hulls create large heeling and lateral turning moments, and it takes a lot of force to pull them through. Therefore, firstly, the beam of a multi-body plow is only part of the supporting frame, usually welded from a channel - the thin walls of the metal profile will not withstand bending and torsional loads. Secondly, the plow is equipped with a field wheel - it rolls, resting on the still untouched soil, otherwise the plow can tilt the tractor on its side, or push it sideways until the plowing error occurs. For more information on how a 2-body homemade plow for a mini tractor works, see the video below:

Video: double-furrow plow for a mini-tractor

Another wheel?

It is difficult to plow a furrow using a plow drawn by an agricultural winch or a manual one - the coupling in both cases is flexible, and the traction unit is weak and/or far away. To properly plow at least half a hectare with a plow with only one field wheel is backbreaking work for an ordinary person. It can be made easier by also equipping the plow with a furrow wheel of a larger diameter than the field wheel (pos. A in Fig. The difference in the radii of the furrow and field wheels is equal to the plowing depth, taking into account the inclination of the furrow wheel bracket, see below. With such a plow it is difficult to make only the first furrow , and then the furrow wheel prevents it from turning sideways. On light walk-behind tractors, craftsmen also often replace one of the wheels with a field wheel, this significantly reduces fuel consumption for plowing and speeds it up. In this case, the field wheel must be made with lugs (pos. B), because the main traction force in this case will be on it; the remaining “original” wheel will be furrowed.

Additional equipment

A plow equipped only with a plowing body(s) cannot do all the types of plowing described above. Depending on the actual need for cultivating the land, the plow is equipped with additional working parts.

Types of additional equipment for a plowshare plow and its installation dimensions in mm are shown in Fig:

The last point needs clarification. First, the criteria for the suitability of the soil for building up a humus layer are the same as for plowing with a full rotation of the layer for reclamation (see above), and in the same way it is carried out only on the recommendation of a specialist; the plow body(s) is also needed. Secondly, a walk-behind tractor and a mini-tractor most likely will not pull a fully equipped plow with a subsoiler. Therefore, subsoilers for mini agricultural machinery are sold separately (see the figure on the right), they are hung on a row instead of a plowing body, and plowing to build up humus is carried out in 2 steps. Third, under normal conditions for private household plots there is no need to buy expensive additional plow equipment. It makes perfect sense to rent skimmers and subsoilers or ask for a loan from some large agricultural enterprise: they are the same for large and mini agricultural machinery - the land is the same.

Note: The installation dimensions of the plow equipment must be maintained as accurately as possible, and they must be secured securely. This process is called setting up the plow. The procedures for setting up plowshare plows are essentially the same. You can watch the video below about setting up an MTZ type plow (see below).

Video: setting up the MTZ plow

and what to do if the plow for a walk-behind tractor does not maintain the plowing depth:

With or without skimmer?

It is much easier to plow ordinary garden soil with a skimmer. But you need to take into account that plowing with a skimmer leaves large voids under the turned away layers, see fig.

During the rise of new crops, they are useful - they accelerate the cultivation of the soil. But in well-established private household plots, the land is always not entirely favorable both in terms of erosion and harmful organisms. Plowing with a skimmer will greatly disturb it, and an outbreak of both is possible. Therefore, it is not advisable to plow cultivated land with skimmers.

Plowing Corps

The body of a plowshare plow is its main working body, which determines the quality of plowing. Therefore, your choice for your plow on your land must be taken with full responsibility. The complete structure of the plow body is shown in the figure; to plow a certain type of land in a suitable way, the structure of the body can be simplified.

The ploughshare, chisel and the front part of the blade (sometimes called the bib) are most susceptible to wear and therefore are made of steel, with properties similar to tool steel. Uglosnim is usually made replaceable, because with its help you can adjust the final value of one of the working angles that is optimal for a given soil, see below. The blade feather completes the laying of the layer by a full turn, if necessary; the purpose of the remaining parts, we assume, is clear without explanation. There is most often no need to use a ploughshare with a chisel in private household plots, and instead they use a chisel-shaped ploughshare (in the inset) with a knife-like protrusion that cuts the soil. This makes all the more sense if the owner has difficult access to blacksmithing work, see below. For non-intensive use in a dacha or personal plot, the body of a plowshare plow can also be made from scrap materials, see video:

Video: plow body made from scrap metal

Note: the knife and bracket of the plow body are often colloquially called paws. According to standard technical terminology, both are still a knife and a paw, but in everyday conversation “paw” and “paw” may be more convenient. The author once heard how a collective farm blacksmith said to a helper - a seasoned thief who had just gone into trouble with many years of prison experience - “Well, let’s go, let’s pull back the knives (see below).” He, of course, quickly realized that this was not his zone; slow-witted prisoners do not survive. But the first moment he heard it, his face was worth looking at.

How the plow plows

Behind the plow body there are installed (not visible in the figure above) a field board - a horizontal bar that keeps the plow from burying - and a stop that supports the blade under the pressure of the soil being turned over. These are simple, not particularly critical details; Let's see what they are further. The remaining parts together are a complex device, all components of which must work in harmony. The possibilities for fine-tuning the plow body in its manufacture and operational adjustment are negligible, so again we will have to delve a little deeper into the theory.

Due to the high operational wear and resistance of the material being processed, a simple wedge is taken as the basis for the cutting parts of the plow: the cutting surfaces of a concave profile will instantly crumble, and a convex profile will require an inordinate amount of traction. Plowing the land with a plow can be represented as the action of 3 wedges with angles at the vertices α, β and γ (alpha, beta and gamma wedges); their action is clear from the poses. 1-3 fig.

All three wedges can be combined into an unequal pyramid, pos. 4, but such a plow will greatly disturb the soil, because for different phases of undercutting and formation turnover, the optimal angle values ​​vary greatly. In a plow that turns away the layer smoothly, without disturbing the ground, the values ​​of the angles along its working surface also change smoothly according to certain laws, pos. 5. The equations that describe these laws, as mathematicians say, do not have an analytical solution, i.e. it is impossible to derive any general formula(s) for constructing the working surface of the plow; when designing a specific plow for a specific soil, the equations are solved using numerical methods or. Previously, when there were no computers with sufficient power for this, the same equations were approximated (replaced) by analytical functions that gave satisfactory initial accuracy, and then prototype plows were tested.

Note: When developing a plow, the external characteristics of the traction unit are also taken into account. Their influence has a stronger effect on low powers and high plowing speeds, so branded plows for different walk-behind tractors and mini tractors may not be interchangeable. However, this is more of a marketing move, because... It is still possible to come up with a plow that works well with any walk-behind tractor, see below.

Blade

Within the ploughshare, due to the technological difficulty of its profiling and small width, the angle values ​​are set constant. In this regard, the most critical part of the plow is its moldboard. The working surface of the blade should be smooth and also smoothly mate with the ploughshare. The fractures along their length greatly disturb the soil, both by the breaks in the layers of the earth and by the “dance” of the plow itself - earth is not butter.

Technologically available for manufacturing at home, the so-called. radius blades of single curvature, which are part of a cylindrical surface. The dumps of, without exaggeration, the legendary, MTZ type plows were built according to this principle; they are widely used throughout the world and are exported in large quantities. The mechanical characteristics of MTZ plows are optimal for normal soils Private household plots and low-power traction units.

MTZ designers managed to achieve the desired results by rotating the blade 20 degrees clockwise relative to the generatrix of a cylinder with a diameter of 600 mm, i.e. the radius of curvature of such a blade is 300 mm; its change within small limits practically does not affect the properties of the plow. When forming a blade on a sheet bending machine, the workpiece is placed on rollers under the appropriate conditions. angle (item 1 in the figure), and when cutting out a pipe, its pattern is turned in the same way. A drawing of the development of the MTZ type plow blade for walking plowing speed is given in pos. 3; there is only one curved cut, the rest can be cut out with a grinder.

Blade from a cylinder?

The thickness of the metal on the plow moldboard blank should be from 3 mm. Household ones have a suitable diameter and almost the same wall thickness. gas cylinders, see fig. on right. However, the steel of the cylinder must hold pressure without the possibility of sudden destruction, but its resistance to the abrasive action of the earth is not standardized. At a dacha or personal plot, a plow from a cylinder will probably last long enough, but it is unlikely that it will be possible to plow more or less significant areas with it twice every year for a long period of time.

Note: how to make a simple plow for a walk-behind tractor with your own hands, see the video below:

Video: a simple plow for a walk-behind tractor

Couldn't it be faster?

I want to plow up an area of ​​more than 0.5-1 hectares as quickly as possible and save fuel on this. In this case, you will have to make a plow with a double-curvature blade, which is much more labor-intensive.

For drawings of a plow with a double-curvature blade for accelerated plowing with a walk-behind tractor, see the figure:

Field board 5 – a piece of steel angle from 40x40x2. One way to make the moldboard of this plow without having a powerful enough sheet bending machine is to weld it from strips using a wooden template. To prevent the wood from burning during welding, it is first welded with minimal current using short clamps, and the workpiece is completely boiled after removing it from the template. You need to boil it gradually, also using clamps, continuously monitoring the curvature with the same template - it is clear that otherwise the workpiece will move greatly.

ploughshare

The ploughshare is the second most important part of the plow. The main requirements for it are durability and the ability to maintain a given configuration as it wears out, because restoring the ploughshare is a rather labor-intensive task and requires forging equipment. An additional important thing is that the ploughshare must work normally as part of a plow with any moldboard.

Types of plowshares are shown in Fig; they all work like an αβ wedge. In plows for private household plots, predominant ones are used. trapezoidal and chisel-shaped shares: the first one is only for cultural plowing; the second one is also for raising the new one. A toothed ploughshare is used to plow soil clogged with roots of trees and bushes; ploughshare with retractable chisel – rocky. The ploughshare magazine is a supply of metal that is drawn onto the worn blade using blacksmithing methods when the ploughshare is restored.

Drawings of trapezoidal and chisel-shaped plowshares for the plow are given in Fig. below:

At home, it will be easier to make a composite ploughshare (drawings on the right in the figure) with a blade from a strip of tool steel. It works on the principle of a rodent cutter: while grinding down, it maintains the sharpening angle. At first, such a plowshare resembles a chisel-shaped one, which is useful when plowing a newly allocated area. As the composite plowshare wears out, it becomes more and more trapezoidal and lasts for several years on ordinary garden soil until the convexity of the front end turns into a fairing. Then the solid steel insert is replaced, and the base can be pulled to the desired configuration using a homemade forge or muffle furnace. An option for fastening a ploughshare to a plow moldboard is shown in the following. rice.:

For more information about restoring a plow share at home, you can watch the video:

Video: restoration of a plow share

About “super-speed” plows

In theory maximum speed mechanical tillage of the land, which does not immediately deteriorate its quality, is 20-24 km/h. But in large-scale agricultural technology, the passion for high-speed and ultra-high-speed plows has long passed: a high-speed plow that disturbs the soil in a 100% reversible manner has never been created. However, amateurs do not stop trying to make a high-speed plow: increasing the plowing speed dramatically reduces wear on the traction unit and fuel consumption. Recently, there has been increased interest in this area in Zykov’s plow.

There is no experience of its long-term operation or the results of full field tests. It is likely that the author developed his design independently, but it still resembles something. A filled chest and a developed moldboard wing indicate that this is a high-speed plow, and a low moldboard indicates that it is an ultra-high-speed plow, pos. 1 in Fig. That is, the rejection of the raised layer is partially dynamic, due to the inertia of the moving mass of the earth. The situation becomes even clearer upon careful examination of the plow, pos. 2-4. The axe-shaped ploughshare lies almost flat. Its far extended toe is actually the same chisel of wedges αβ, turning into a pure wedge β, connected to the wedge γ of the blade with a noticeable break (item 4); This is where a shock occurs, throwing the layer away from the plow. All this greatly reduces the required traction force, but this plow actually plows in 3 phases like a simple αβγ pyramid, see above.

Plows of a similar operating principle were designed in the USSR in the late 50s on the initiative of the well-known Trofim Lysenko. There is a semi-legendary story connected with them, which veterans of the agricultural machinery industry told something like this.

Having lost his patron Stalin, Trofim intensively intrigued, trying to ingratiate himself into complete trust in the new ruler. Khrushchev's motto was “Catch up and overtake!”; America, of course. A plow that plows faster than American ones - this should certainly work. The resourceful and nosy idiot with the soul of an executioner-sycophant did not think about his fiasco with the branchy wheat and others, not so loud, and he was not capable of it.

Note: excerpts from Khrushchev's press conference during his visit to the United States: “When will there be communism in the Soviet Union?” - “When will we overtake America in all respects” - “Do you hope for success?” - “We have already overtaken you in steel and cement” - “How many suits will a Soviet worker have under communism?” - "Three".

Whether Nikita the Wonderworker was a notorious fool, a genius in the guise of a pea jester, or the most ordinary mediocrity, a wave of chance elevated to the pinnacle of power, is the fifth issue here. But as a former collective farmer, he knew a lot about farming. Having seen during the tests how the “super plows” were turning the earth, he yelled at everyone and ordered to immediately curtail all work on this “...” Trofim was sent into disgrace, but he avoided the fate of his victims - they even left him the institute in which he, contemplating how employees were leaving and laboratories were emptying, he served out the remaining term of life assigned to him.

Zykov’s plow was patented and is produced in Ukraine; it is not exported. As for the Russian Federation, there is probably some kind of politics involved here. But even in the West, specialists are familiar with Trofimov’s “razletayki”: they are studied there in universities, respectively. profile. As examples of how not to build plows.

Hitch

The next most important component of a trailed plow is the coupling device with the traction unit. Already a semi-mounted plow is much less sensitive in this regard, because The hydraulic lift allows you to quickly set the plowing depth. But the trailed plow must adhere to the tractor like a glove, because if the plowing body moves in a wave, the earth will be greatly disturbed due to all the factors indicated at the beginning.

The diagram of a rigid coupling of a plowshare plow with a walk-behind tractor/mini tractor is shown on the left in Fig. On the right there are design options for the device for setting the plowing depth; it must be no less rigid and reliable than the hitch.

The design of the coupling assembly is shown on the left in the following. rice; in detail - there on the right. All flat parts are made of steel with a thickness of 6 mm (case stand - from 12 mm). Round - from a rod with a diameter of 12 mm; tilt adjuster screw and handle – from 16 mm.

Winch problems

The winch and hand plows should be as simple as possible in design and light, so that as little effort as possible is spent on moving the plow itself. The most important tasks of their design are setting the plowing depth and compensating for the tendency of the plow to go sideways or fall to one side, because the low weight of the structure itself does not help here. It is also important that if the plow gets stuck and stops (which is by no means impossible, since the draft is weak), then it is impossible to pull it out of place or pull it out and continue the passage without ruining the furrow.

Reliably, but not entirely conveniently, these problems are solved in the design of the well-known winch plow “Feather”, see figure: the plowing depth is set by changing the plowing body or installing wheels of other diameters. The attachment point of the traction cable is located asymmetrically relative to the longitudinal axis of the beam; its position is selected for cultivated soils middle zone RF. Additionally, the tendency of the plow to go sideways compensates for the separation of the wheel axles along the course of the plow.

The soils are still different everywhere, but keeping a set of wheels for different plowing depths is not so bad. What’s worse is that within the same area, the density and cohesion of the soil can vary markedly; on such a “Feather” driven by a winch with less than 2-3 kW will stand up. For a weak electric winch with single-phase power from household socket, or manual, the plow is designed for pos. 1 pic. In it, the required traction asymmetry is roughly set by wheel axles of different lengths, and is precisely established by moving and fixing the traction cable clamp. But if its clamp weakens and the clamp slips, this plow will stand with its body in the ground.

The author of the design for pos. 2 was at the disposal of rowers from “real big” agricultural machinery, which solved the problem. The plowing depth is set by turning the bracket (stand in the drawing) of the furrow wheel, and the axles of both wheels are retractable, which makes it possible to quickly and accurately set the traction asymmetry. In previous designs, such a solution is impossible: the deformation of rows made of water supply or corrugated pipe during a jerk of the draft can be reversible and invisible to the eye, but sufficient for the plow to get stuck.

Hand-drawn

Cultural, and even more so autumn plowing and raising of new soil by a pair of workers with a hand plow is hardly possible, even if both are direct descendants of Evpatiy Kolovrat. A manual plow is used primarily in private household plots. like plowing (furrow) on land that has already undergone basic cultivation.

A positive feature of manual plowing is the prompt, very sensitive adjustment of the working depth and precise compensation of traction asymmetry without delay; It may take several seconds for the winch cable to respond to the jerk of the plow, which will get stuck during this time. Therefore, almost any hand-pulled cultivator is suitable as a manual paired plow, for example. one, the drawings of which are given in Fig. Its modification is not required, it is enough to replace the cultivating body with a plowing one to a depth of 150-160 mm.

Instead of a conclusion

Well, let’s complete this opus instead of abstract maxims and generally useless wishes in a businesslike manner: in Fig. – a drawing of handles for a hand plow, repeating the handles of a peasant plow. The ergonomics of which have been tested by centuries of experience.

A horse-drawn, tractor-mounted or walk-behind plow is an indispensable thing in a homestead. The plow plows the ground, turning over the top layer of soil, which reduces the number of weeds and makes the soil softer and more pliable. You can not only buy a plow, but also make it yourself. To do this, in addition to tools and materials, you need to have an understanding of the structure of the plow and its geometry.

It is possible to make a plow correctly only when you have an idea of ​​the plowing process, as well as the purpose of each of the plow parts.

When plowing, the plow wedge cuts into the ground at a certain angle, depending on the softness and moisture of the soil. The wedge separates the layer, lifts and compresses it, while simultaneously dividing the layer into several parts. The angle of entry determines how many parts the earth layer will be split into: the larger the angle, the larger the split. But if the angle of entry is more than forty-five degrees, then the soil stops sliding along the working surface of the arable device and begins to accumulate in front of it, making further work difficult. A vertical plow, that is, with a sharper leading angle, separates the soil from the edge of the plow furrow and compresses it horizontally. A plow with a horizontal leading angle works differently: it deflects and turns over the soil layer.

A typical working plow consists of:

• The ploughshare that cuts the soil,
• dump,
• Knife,
• Field boards,
• Racks,
• Skimmer.

Additionally, the plow can be equipped with:

• More durable metal frame,
• With wheels,
• A mechanism that corrects the operation of the plow relative to the tractor,
• hydraulic mechanisms,
• Pneumatic hydraulic system.

The blade can have several types of working surface:

• Screw,
• Cylindrical,
• Cylindrical.

The cylindrical grinds the soil perfectly, but does not form a layer well. This is not always convenient. A cylindrical work surface is usually used for working with soft soil. The most convenient and practical to use is a cylindrical surface, which crumbles and turns the soil well, and also copes with both dry and wet soil.

Homemade plow

To make a plow with your own hands at home, you need to have:

• Rollers,
• Bulgarian,
• Gas cutter,
• Fasteners,
• Measuring tool,
• Hammer,
• Welding machine,
• Scissors for cutting metal.

Single-sided plow

The easiest option to manufacture. A one-sided device can be made either integral, in the form of a single body, or collapsible. The collapsible version is convenient because it allows you to remove the plowshare for sharpening. The ploughshare can be replaced with a disk from a circular plate. The dump is usually done in two ways. The first of them requires the use of a pipe cut about five millimeters thick and fifty centimeters in diameter.

A workpiece is cut from the cut and, using an angle grinder, brought to the required size. The second method of manufacturing a dump involves the presence of a steel sheet four millimeters thick, or a cylinder with the same wall thickness, but with a cross-section of about 50 cm. Using a welding machine or metal scissors, a shape is cut out and bent into the form of a cylinder. If there are deviations from the required dimensions, you can use a hammer for finishing.

Any drawings provide six constituent elements:

• Metal disk or ploughshare,
• The basis,
• Spacer plate
• Side shield,
• Pipe section for the shield,
• Field work board.

The ploughshare is usually installed using a sheet of metal and several wedges beveled at an angle of twenty-five degrees. They are fastened by two-point welding, and it is also used to connect the rack and the side shield. It is advisable to make the shield one centimeter higher than the lower edge of the plowshare, and the edges of the shield should overlap the edge of the blade by five or six millimeters.

The plowshare and blade are fastened by welding so that they are a single whole, without gaps or irregularities. The angle formed between them should not exceed seven degrees. A welded plowshare and blade are attached to the side stand, and the stand itself is welded first to the base and then to the spacer plate. Finally, the corners of the ploughshare are welded to the base. All weld marks and seams are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are ground.

This type is more effective for plowing large areas of land. Manufacturing requires a strong steel frame made of a round or rectangular profile with a thickness of at least two millimeters. The size of the frame depends on the number of working parts and control element required. In the working body, the plowshare must be placed at the bottom, since its role is to move the layer of earth towards the dump. The blade turns the soil, cuts and moves it, forming a furrow.

The stand is necessary for attaching working tools to the frame and holding the knife. Several adjustable holes are made in it, which will allow you to change the depth of plowing. Usually the rack is welded from a metal plate, at least a centimeter thick, and attached to the frame with bolts.

The frame with all the working tools is attached to a mini-tractor or walk-behind tractor with a homemade drawbar or hitch. The drawbar must have a handle and be straight or V-shaped. The second form option is more effective because it makes the plow much more stable. Also, for greater stability and straightness of movement, you can install field wheels. They are attached to the frame using an adjustable bracket.

Assembly and installation of the plow

To assemble a plow with your own hands, you need to adhere to one very important rule: all parts of the device are welded first spot welding, and only when all the details are in place and fastened correctly is it final. It is easy to check the quality of workmanship - to do this, you need to remove the blade with the ploughshare, and place the plow itself on the table. Pressing the plow tightly, check the coincidence of the table surface with the horizontal surface of the skid. If there are no deviations, everything was done correctly.

Also define good assembly possible based on the following criteria:

• The sharp edge of the share is located two centimeters below the skid,
• The plowshare and blade do not protrude beyond the vertical edge of the skid by more than a centimeter,
• There is no gap between the skid and the blade.

Mount homemade device on a walk-behind tractor next to the plowing area. They start by installing steel wheels - they prevent the walk-behind tractor from slipping in the soil. Next step: secure the plow, but do not tighten all the fastening nuts completely. With their help, the device will be adjusted, which begins on a special stand. The height of the stand should be equal to the depth of plowing. After installation and checking the fastening of all components, the plow is placed on the ground.

Testing the quality of work is carried out on three-furrow plowing.

This is sufficient for measuring depth and checking overturned formations. If the furrows overlap one another, or the distance between them is more than ten centimeters, it is necessary to adjust all the components again.

After I got a self-made agricultural winch, which is used for plowing the garden, the question became: should I buy a plow or make it myself? Walking through the shops and bazaar of Smolensk, you get a strange feeling that the plows produced by the industry for walk-behind tractors are a sad sight. And these industrial creations are suitable only for “picking” and not for plowing the land, and even with the rotation of the layer, and regarding the depth and width of plowing, we can conclude that for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm, not one of the proposed ones is suitable in the plow trade. Either our manufacturers are saving money, or the power of the most popular walk-behind tractors is not enough to work with a normal plow with a working width of 30 cm. When planting potatoes, you shouldn’t plow one furrow three times. And the price wants to leave the best - under 2 thousand. rubles (for a couple of pieces of iron from a scrap metal collection point). The next step to find something useful is to search the Internet. To my surprise, there are 3-4 original descriptions with drawings floating in the vastness of the Russian-language network (this fact surprises me very much). The next step is to look at what those around you are using. It was not possible to buy a suitable plow; the decision was made to make a plow with our own hands. Based on the fact that the plow was supposed to be used for planting potatoes with a winch for plowing, the following requirements are imposed on it:

1. Plowing width – up to 30 cm.

2. Plowing depth -10-20cm.

3. The plow must hold the furrow itself, without digging in or jumping out of the furrow. The geometry of the plow must ensure movement with the specified parameters without the help of a plowman.

4. Possibility of adjusting the depth and width of plowing.

5. Minimum weight and sufficient strength.

My uncle has been using his homemade motorized winch for plowing for more than 10 years and has tried several options. For the last few years, he has settled on an option optimized for a homemade motorized winch for the garden, namely for planting potatoes with a distance between rows of 60 cm. There is also a homemade hiller for motorized winch and potato digger. made with your own hands, all this can be viewed on the corresponding pages of the site .

Field board drawing.

The blade is bent according to this template until the two profiles coincide and then welded at an angle.

Using a drawing of a homemade plow, you need to draw a template for the plow pattern on thick paper, and then transfer the picture to metal and cut out the blank with a grinder. Personally, I used stainless steel material with a thickness of 1.8 mm. Many often use a sheet of 2-3 mm. The cutting part of the plow is reinforced with a strip of thicker metal. Someone suggests using a disk from a circular machine for these purposes, or a spring from a “Muscovite”. From personal experience, if you plow a summer cottage plot for a family of 4 people in the spring and autumn, cultivating six acres, there is no point in chasing super-strength. It is more profitable to make a plow that is light but strong enough for its tasks. It’s better to repair or replace something after 10 years, and only if necessary, than to carry around the heavy structure of a homemade plow for 10 years. Excess weight to nothing.

This is what the plowing width adjustment system looks like. By rearranging the large wheel, you can change the plowing width within significant limits. When I plant potatoes, I set the grip to 30 cm, in two passes the distance between the rows is 60 cm. For autumn plowing of the garden or when plowing virgin soil, I use a smaller grip. The small wheel is made so wide that the plow does not press into the ground.

Questions, comments, discussions are available on the website Pahalka.ru

Do-it-yourself winch plow: drawings. How to make a plow for a winch with your own hands?

If you need to make a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of this tool must first be considered.

Features of the plow for the winch

It is worth understanding before starting work that the working element of the plow is a ploughshare, which cuts the layer of the lower part of the soil. Among other elements, there is also a blade, which is designed for crumbling and wrapping the earth. A field board is also used in the design, which acts as a support for the tool. It rests on the bottom of the furrow. The field board, blade, fur, as well as the stand with which the plow element is fixed, make up the body of the structure. In the ground, the body moves towards the horizon, cutting off the soil, and then deforming it and turning it over.

Features of plow manufacturing

A plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of which must be drawn up yourself, can only be completed after you have studied the principle of operation of the tool. Before this, you need to make sure that you are capable of working with metal; you will have to bend the blade using sheet bending rollers. You can choose for yourself one of the proposed options for manufacturing a body blade.

Features of case manufacturing

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of which will allow you to complete the work without errors, it will be necessary to form a body, taking into account that the layer of earth should rise 25 centimeters upward. This indicates that the tool will be subject to significant stress. In addition, the surfaces of the housing will be subject to abrasive wear, which entails the need to use steel with a thickness of 5 millimeters for the manufacture of working elements of the structure.

Features of the share

The ploughshare must be removable so that it can be sharpened. The manufacture of this element must be carried out using alloy steel, it can be a disk circular saw. You can use steel that has not been hardened. If only regular grade carbon steel is available that has not been heat treated, that can also be used, but the cutting surface of the share will need to be cold hammered with an anvil before use. Afterwards the element should be sharpened.

Blade manufacturing technology

When you make a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings of which will allow you to complete the work more easily, you need to prepare sheet bending rollers. They will allow you to give the workpiece the required form. For this purpose, the blade blank, the thickness of which is 4 millimeters, must be brought to the rollers at an angle of 23 degrees. The element must be bent and then brought to the desired shape using a hammer.

Second manufacturing option

Initially, you need to prepare drawings of the plow for the winch with your own hands. Only then can you begin to manufacture the blade, which can be made of a steel pipe; its diameter should be 600 millimeters, while the wall thickness should vary within 45 millimeters. In this case, initially, you need to make a template of the element from fairly thick cardboard, and then apply it to the pipe, so that an angle of 23 degrees should be obtained between the lower part of the blade and the pipe cylinder. The outline of the element needs to be marked with chalk, and then an oval is cut out using gas welding, then the workpiece is processed using sandpaper. If necessary, the shape can be modified using a hammer.

Third manufacturing option

First you need to make drawings of the plow for the winch with your own hands. The third manufacturing option will be the most labor-intensive. The blank for the dump will need to be heated using a forge. Afterwards, the part must be bent along the matrix; as the latter, you can use a blade borrowed from a tractor plow. The plow body must be made of sheet steel, the thickness of which is 3 millimeters.

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, the drawings, photos of which you should study in advance, you can first complete the structural elements using thick cardboard, after which the templates are glued together. If the design layout satisfies you, you can use it as a basis for making the tool. When the main plow blanks are prepared, a steel sheet should be used to mount the body, the thickness of which should be 3 millimeters, while the dimensions of this blank are 500 x 500 millimeters. Using a steel sheet, you need to retreat 40 millimeters from its edges. You need to install a plowshare on the metal sheet and secure it by welding on both sides. Next, you need to place the shield under the ploughshare, taking into account that its location should be vertical, in addition, it should extend beyond the edges of the ploughshare by 8 millimeters. In this case, the rack shield should be located 10 millimeters above the ploughshare blade; this is the only way to prevent it from interfering with the blade. The shield also needs to be welded to the steel sheet and ploughshare.

Connecting elements

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, you should learn in advance how to make a tool. At the next stage, you need to fit the blade onto the ploughshare, which should be connected to this element quite tightly, there should be no gaps. The angle between the plowshare blade and the blade edge should be approximately 8 degrees. If an angle discrepancy is found, the blade must be modified using a hammer. After the blade is adjusted to the ploughshare, it must be secured by welding. At the next stage, a spacer bar and a base plate are attached to this shield. The latter needs to be strengthened to the supporting corners. The tool must be inspected and all elements finally welded. The support corners of the share must be welded to the base plate.

Final works

When making a plow for a winch with your own hands, at the next stage you need to thoroughly clean the seams, and treat the ploughshare and blade with sanding paper. In order to ensure self-propelledness of the plow, it is necessary to adapt a block that has two wheels.

Features of wheel manufacturing

The furrow wheel should be selected so that it has a diameter equal to 320 millimeters, while its width should be equivalent to 50 millimeters. It can be made from a metal sheet whose thickness is 4 millimeters. After you have succeeded in making a plow with your own hands for a winch, you will need to make a field wheel, the diameter of which is 200 millimeters, while its width should be equivalent to the width of the base wheel. It must be made from the same material. The wheel axle is formed from 3/4-inch pipe. After completing this work, you can safely start using the tool. One of its positive features is that if it breaks, you can easily fix it, since you will know its structure well.

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Homemade plow

Some home-made people try to make a plow with their own hands, copying it from a tractor or horse-drawn plow. Often such an attempt ended in failure, not because the craftsmen lacked patience and will, but because of the lack of necessary knowledge about the geometry of the plow body.

A little theory

In order to more clearly imagine the plowing process and the purpose of the individual elements of the plow, we first consider the interaction of a simple wedge with the soil. Under the influence of a wedge, soil deformation occurs, the nature of which depends on technological properties soil and the angle alpha (α) of setting the working edge of the wedge to the horizon.

Interaction of a wedge with an alpha angle with the soil

A dihedral wedge with an alpha angle separates the layer from the bottom of the furrow, lifts it, compresses it in a vertical plane and splits it into separate parts. The greater the alpha angle, the more the wedge bends and crumbles the separated layer. However, when the alpha angle increases to 45°, the soil stops sliding along the upper edge of the wedge and begins to “unload” in front of the wedge. A dihedral wedge with a gamma angle (γ), oriented vertically, separates the formation from the wall of the furrow, moves the soil to the side and compresses it in the horizontal plane.

Interaction of the gamma angle wedge with the soil

A dihedral wedge with an angle beta (β) is designed to deflect the formation to the side, turning it over.

Interaction of a wedge with an angle beta with the soil

However, in order to transfer the formation from a horizontal position to an inclined one and turn it over, the beta angle of the wedge must vary from 25° to 130°, that is, the surface of the wedge must be curved. The complex impact on the formation of three dihedral wedges will replace one trihedral wedge, which is an AMBO tetrahedron with three mutually perpendicular faces VOM, AOM and AOB.

Interaction of a triangular wedge with the soil

When moving the triangular wedge in the direction of the X axis, edge AB cuts off the layer from the bottom of the furrow, edge VM from the wall of the furrow, and edge ABM takes the layer to the side, crumbles and wraps it.

To ensure plowing of the soil, the triangular wedge is converted into a curved plowshare-mouldboard surface of the plow body, which is characterized by continuously changing angles alpha, gamma, and beta.

Working surface of the plow body

Let us recall that the working parts of the plow are: a ploughshare, cutting the layer from below; a blade for wrapping and crumbling the formation, a field board - a plow support that rests on the bottom of the furrow. The moldboard, ploughshare, field board, as well as the stand, with the help of which the previously listed plow organs are attached, make up the body of the plow. Moving in the soil along the X-axis, the plow body with a curved surface cuts off the layer, lifts it, deforms it, crumbles it, wraps it and dumps it into an open furrow. Of the many technological operations performed by a plow, the main one, from the point of view of agricultural technology, is the turnover and crumbling of the formation, the intensity of which is determined by the values ​​and intensity of changes in the angles alpha, gamma, and beta, that is, the actual shape of the working surface of the moldboard of the plow body.

The process of turnover of a layer of earth:
a - plowing depth; b - width of the formation of the plow body

The surfaces of the dumps can be cylindrical, cylindrical (resembling cylindrical) and helical. A plow with a cylindrical surface crumbles and mixes soil layers well, but does not turn the layer well, which does not meet the requirements of agricultural technology. Therefore, plows with cylindrical body surfaces are not used for plowing the land. Of greatest interest is the plow with a cylindrical moldboard surface. This surface is characterized by an intensive increase in both the crumbling angle alpha (from α 0 = 25° to α max = 130°) and the formation wrapping angle beta (from β 0 = 25°. 35° to β max = 100°. 130° ). The gamma shift angle varies within small limits from (from γ 0 =35°. 42° to γ ​​max =45°. 50°).

Making a plow

Now that we have become a little familiar with the theory of the plow, we move on to making a homemade plow. So that the plow can be made by everyone (who is familiar with metalworking), and even those who do not have the ability to bend the moldboard on sheet-bending rollers, below are three options for manufacturing the moldboard of the plow body. When forming the body of the plow, it is necessary to take into account the fact that when lifting a layer of earth 20-25 cm high, the plow experiences very significant loads, and the surfaces of its body are subject to abrasive wear, therefore, for the working parts of the plow it is necessary to select steel 3-5 mm thick.

ploughshare. The plow share must be removable (for sharpening before plowing); it is better to make it from alloy steel 9ХС (circular saw blade). 45 steel, hardened to a hardness of HRC 50-55, is also suitable. If only carbon steel of ordinary quality is available, for example, St. 5, which is not “heat-treated,” it can also be made to satisfactorily cut a layer of earth if, before plowing, the cutting part of the ploughshare is beaten on an anvil in a cold state, like a scythe, and sharpened.

The first version of the blade manufacturing. As mentioned above, the working surface of the blade must have a cylindrical surface. If you have sheet bending rollers, giving the workpiece the desired shape will not be difficult. To do this, a blade blank 3-4 mm thick, cut from steel (gas-electric welding, scissors), is fed to the rollers at an angle of 20°-23°, bent, and then refined with a hammer according to the template.

Drawing of a plow blade made of 3 mm sheet steel

Second option. The blade can be made from a steel pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm, the wall thickness of which is 4-5 mm. In this case, first a moldboard template is made from thick cardboard, then the template is placed on the pipe, making sure that there is an angle of 20-23° between the lower generatrix of the blade and the generatrix of the pipe cylinder. The contour of the blade is outlined with chalk, then the blade is cut out using gas welding and processed using emery. If necessary, the shape of the blade is modified with a hammer, focusing on the template.

Blade shape from a pipe with a diameter of 550-600 mm (wall thickness 4-5 mm)

Third option. The most labor-intensive way to produce a moldboard is when its workpiece has to be heated in a forge (or in another way), and then bent along a matrix (a moldboard from a tractor plow is suitable for the latter).

The plow body is made of sheet steel St.3-St.10 with a thickness of 3 mm.

Plow parts drawing:
a — ploughshare, alloy steel; b — side shield of the rack, St3; c — spacer plate, St3; g — plow base plate, St3; d - field board, corner 30x30 mm; e - stand, pipe with a diameter of 42 mm

It is recommended to first make the plow elements from thick cardboard and glue them together, maintaining the appropriate angles. Thus, the value of the alpha and beta angles in different parts of the body will be from 25° to 130°, the gamma angle - from 42° to 50°. If a homemade cardboard plow satisfies you in all respects, feel free to tackle metal.

When the metal elements of the plow are ready, to assemble the body you will need a metal (steel) sheet 2-3 mm thick and 500x500 mm in size, and you will also need welding machine. On the metal sheet, stepping back 40 mm from the edges, we set the angle γ 0.

Plow assembly: 1 - ploughshare; 2 — side shield of the rack; 3 - metal sheet 2-3 mm

Using wedges with an angle α 0 =25°, we install a ploughshare on a metal sheet and attach it to the sheet by welding on both sides. We place the side shield of the rack under the ploughshare, making sure that it is positioned vertically and extends beyond the edge of the ploughshare by 5-8 mm, while the rack shield should be located above the blade of the ploughshare (that is, above the sheet) by 6-10 mm, so that do not interfere with the blade of the ploughshare cutting the layer of earth. The shield is also lightly welded to both the ploughshare and the metal sheet.

Then we try on the blade to the ploughshare, which should fit tightly with the ploughshare, without gaps, so that the surfaces of the blade and the ploughshare form one whole. The angle between the ploughshare blade and the upper edge of the blade is equal to the difference between the angles γ max and γ 0 and should be 6-8°.

Plowshare attachment:
1 - ploughshare; 2 — countersunk head screw M8; 3 - dump; 4 — base plate; 5 - corner 30x30x90 mm; 6 - M8 nut

If a discrepancy between corners and/or surfaces is detected, the blade is modified with a hammer. Having adjusted the blade to the ploughshare, it is welded to the ploughshare (from the back), as well as to the side shield. Next, a spacer bar and a base plate are welded to the side shield, and the thrust corners for the ploughshare are again attached to the latter. The plow is inspected again and finally welded, while the metal sheet on which the plow was assembled is disconnected from the body using a chisel or “grinder” with a cutting disc. The thrust corners for attaching the plowshare are thoroughly welded to the base plate. Then the welds are cleaned, and the blade and plowshare are treated with sandpaper.

In order for the plow to be “self-propelled” and “hold the furrow” itself, it is necessary to adapt a 2-wheeled block to it.

Plow with wheel block:
1 — field wheel; 2 - beam; 3 — furrow wheel; 4 — plow body; 5 - handle; 6 — wheel axle; 7 — channel plow adjustment plate

A furrow wheel with a diameter of 320 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is made from a steel sheet 3-4 mm thick. A field wheel with a diameter of 200 mm and a width of 40-50 mm is cut from the same material. The wheel axle is made of 3/4-inch tubing. On one side, the pipe is bent at an angle of 90° and a sleeve is welded to the bent end to install the furrow wheel. A field wheel is attached to the other end of the pipe. The wheel axle is also made composite (the figure above shows a composite axle). The pipe itself is welded to the plow beam (a pipe with a diameter of 42 mm).

The depth of plowing with the plow will be 200-240 mm, that is, it will be approximately equal to the vertical distance from the toe of the ploughshare to the field wheel (see figure above). The plowing width, equal to 220-250 mm, depends on the distance (horizontally) from the tip of the ploughshare to the furrow wheel. Those who want to make the plow adjustable in terms of plowing depth and the width of the soil layer (towards a decrease) must ensure that the field wheel can be moved vertically, and the furrow wheel can be moved horizontally, and also fix the wheels in the desired position. To ensure stability of the plow during plowing, it is necessary to provide for adjustment of the point at which the plow is attached to the cable (if the plow is moved using an electric winch) or to the hook (if the draft force is a horse). To make it easier to find the optimal attachment point for the plow, the easiest way is to take a steel plate 6-8 mm thick (or better yet, a channel) measuring 120x160 mm, drill a series of holes with a diameter of 10 mm in it and weld the plate to the plow beam. The picture below shows an adjustment plate that is attached to a wheel block with a composite axle for the wheels.

Adjustment plate:
a - plate; b - fastening the plate (channel) to the beam; c - loop

The plow works best with an electric winch, because the cable pulls the plow strictly horizontally. When a plow is pulled by a horse, there is a vertical component of the pulling force that lifts the wheel unit upward. Moreover, the taller the horse and the closer the plow is attached to it, the greater this vertical component of the force. When initially connecting the plow to the pulling unit, tie the cable to the adjustment plate, stepping back from the row by 60-90 mm towards the furrow wheel. The first furrow in the arable land is made at half the plowing depth to reduce bending forces. When passing the second furrow, having traveled 5 m, you must stop and look at the cut of the furrow; the field board should leave a clear mark on it, which will indicate that the plow is interacting correctly with the soil. If the mark is not noticeable, move the attachment point to the left wheel by 30-60 mm, if the mark is excessive, move the point to the furrow wheel. If the plow does not want to go deep, move the attachment point above the beam by 30-60 mm, and if it is too deep, lower the plow attachment point.

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How to build a plow with your own hands

A homemade plow is not only economically profitable, but also not difficult to produce. You will always be confident in the reliability of such equipment, but let's figure out how to build it.

A plow is used in agriculture to plow the land.

If you have ever read newspapers and magazines intended for rural residents, you have probably noticed an abundance of advertising for the sale of mini tractors and walk-behind tractors. Not surprisingly, the land has to be cultivated. But the attachments for such equipment on sale are not always of high quality. The most popular unit is the plow. And when purchasing it, the future plowman gets a lot of problems: one cannot always expect high-quality plowing from such a device, although the plow is worth it industrial production pretty impressive. A homemade plow can be an excellent alternative to a low-quality product.

Plow design

Before we start making the plow, let's figure it out design features. Its main parts are: a ploughshare, a blade and a field board.

Types of plow moldboards: 1 – cylindrical; 2 and 3 – cultural; 4 – half-screw; 5 – screw.

The ploughshare is the main cutting part of the plow. It is located under the dump. The angle of inclination of the cutting edge of the ploughshare should be about 40 degrees. At a smaller angle, the product will rush upward. When working on a walk-behind tractor, you will constantly have to lift the handles, which will lead to rapid fatigue of the worker. A homemade plow for a mini tractor with the mentioned ploughshare must be kept in the soil at all times using hydraulics. The ploughshare is made from high-strength steel grades. It can be difficult to find such material at home, so it is recommended to use an industrially produced plowshare from old technology. A part from a skimmer may be ideal. In the old days, agricultural machinery was not very powerful, so for heavy soils, equipment was used, in front of which skimmers were installed - small plows for preliminary soil cultivation, due to which the turf was loosened.

The plow moldboard plays an important role. His work is based on the shape of the leaf. The better the sheet is bent outward, the easier it is for the product to turn over the plowed land. The blade is made from low-carbon steel with a thickness of 3 mm (this is the critical thickness that is suitable for a walk-behind tractor). The tractor will require a blade with a larger sheet area and thicker material.

The plow board is needed to ensure its stability in the soil. If your walk-behind tractor has wheel locking, then if you have a properly installed field board, you will not have to experience much physical exertion. It is enough for the block to “show” the direction and set the recess, and then it will work itself until the end of the plowing strip.

Required tools and materials

Drawing of plow parts.

Now let's move on to the actual production of the plow. We will start with mathematical calculations taking into account technical characteristics your walk-behind tractor. If your equipment has a good coefficient of adhesion to the soil, then you can use any drawings as a basis attachments for mini equipment. Otherwise, take your time to make a plow with a wide grip and a large recess. For a conventional walk-behind tractor, you must comply following proportions: 8 kg of equipment weight per 1 cm of recess and per 0.5 cm of plowing width.

To assemble the plow you will need:

• a finished ploughshare or a piece of durable steel;
• electric drill;
• steel for making a blade and field board;
• electric welding;
• Bulgarian;
• bolts and nuts;
• metal stand for making the base.

Work order

Method for determining the center of gravity of a plow: 1 - plow body; 2 – beam; 3 – plow handles; 4, 5 and 6 – ropes; 7 – hook; 8 – plumb line.

We install a vertical stand on a flat horizontal surface, place a field board on the left side in the direction of the intended movement, with right side the ploughshare is located. Sometimes you can come across advice that all parts must be welded to the rack. If you are also planning to do this, then give up this idea: the plow must be collapsible. Then, if any element is damaged, it can be easily replaced, which will reduce forced downtime.

In order for the plow to be easily disassembled and assembled, weld a base for it; the product will include triangular shapes designed to ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. We screw the ploughshare and the field board onto this base in the previously marked directions. The blade must be secured above the plowshare. It needs to be given a certain roundness, which can be done on a special machine or by forging. Cold forging is not suitable here for two reasons:

1. Cold metal is very difficult to deform.
2. It will not be possible to give the product a certain shape: you will create irregularities that will prevent the soil from sliding along the dump sheet.

It will be better if the metal is heated, forged and immediately hardened. The holes in the blade (3 of them are needed) can be made directly in the forge, but do not make mistakes with the accuracy of the markings.

Now let’s fix the blade on the body. For fastening, it is necessary to use bolts with a head that fits tightly into the hole. All protrusions will interfere with the operation of the plow, so they must be cut off to fit the base and the areas sanded.

If you work in your garden with a tractor, then you need to have twin plows that are attached to an axle that runs at an angle to the equipment.

Here, fastening is carried out using strong metal clamps (do not use welded fastening elements - they will break under load!). The position of the bearing axis should not be stationary. Here it is necessary to provide at least a small angle of rotation so that you can adjust the position of the plows.

If desired, the master can make and reversible plow, placing a hydraulic drive in the gap between the axle and the tractor for turning. But such a design is popularly recognized as irrational: it breaks down too quickly. It’s better to use factory-made plow turning elements. If they are available, then there is no problem; there is no need to make such a complex device yourself. It will cost a waste of time and nerves, and the result of the efforts will be short-lived.

This is already my third homemade model plow with electric winch. Taking into account previous experience, I made it according to the principle “the simpler, the more reliable” - from available materials at the lowest cost.

The plow design (photo 1, fig.) consists of 5 main components.

Dump. I cut it out with a grinder from 2 mm thick tin (photo 2). I welded a plowshare from a spring from a Moskvich. I bent the blade radially so that its front part came close to the front part of the field board (PD), cut from a steel sheet 3 mm thick. I welded the blade to the PD with an overlap so that its cutting part would be 2-3 cm below it. From a 50x50 cm corner I cut out a 50 cm long skid. I attached it with an MB bolt with a countersunk head to the PD.

Rack. I used a 20x40 mm profile. At the bottom I attached one M8 bolt simultaneously to the skid and the PD, and at the top with a similar bolt to the PD, taking into account the fact that in this place the angle of inclination of the plow can be adjusted. At the end of the skid I welded a piece of tube d 20 mm - a spacer for the blade (photo 3). Using a stand attached to the drawbar, the plow can be lowered and raised, thereby adjusting the plowing depth.

Drawbar. Together with the transverse axis, I made it from a 42 mm water pipe. I welded the drawbar coupling box with the stand from corners from a 30x60 mm profile. When moving up and down, it is fixed on the stand with a pin (nail) in holes drilled at intervals of 50 mm (photo 4).

Hitch unit. Designed to move the drawbar along the transverse axis (photo 5) when adjusting the width of the furrow. Nearby I attached a bracket through which the cable from the electric winch passes (photo 6). Using a bracket, I adjust the force required to hold the plow along the width of the furrow (partially and in depth).

Wheels made of 2 mm sheet metal are attached to the ends of the transverse axis. One is flat, the second is in the form of a plate. To make bending more convenient, I made slits around the perimeter of the circle. Hubs made from pieces of pipe 20 mm in diameter were reinforced with spacers made from strips of metal 20 mm wide (photo 7). I covered the wheel rims with the same strips to prevent them from sinking into the ground.

Just above the blade I tied a piece of 4 mm wire to the stand. He pulled it through the hole in the bracket on the transverse axis and bent the loop at the other end. This S-shaped hook is used to connect the plow to the winch cable (photo 8).

Typically, when working with a winch, the most labor-intensive operation is transporting the plow to the new furrow. With my design weighing less than 15 kg and with wheels, this turns into a walk: lift it by the spacer and roll it with one hand to the desired place.

I pass 1-2 initial furrows, pressing the plow from above, to get desired depth. After that, I just control the process - the plow itself maintains the required width (pressing the convex wheel against the edge of the furrow) and depth.
On a note

Ideally, the S-hook should unbend when the winch force is significantly greater than the working force - for example, when a large stone is encountered in the path of the plow. This will prevent the motor from burning out.

Do-it-yourself manual plow "Vyatka plowman" (father Gennady's shovel) (drawings and diagrams)

The “Vyatka Plowman” hand plow (Gennady’s father’s shovel) is a tool for quickly digging up the earth. Increases plowing productivity by 4 times compared to a conventional shovel. Due to the rotating method of operation, it does not put any strain on the lower back. Efforts are applied only to the “steering wheel”.

Monk Gennady’s shovel is adjustable in height, which allows it to be ideally adjusted to the height of the tiller. The width of the bucket is 30 cm - 1.5 times wider than a regular shovel. Plowing the land is quick and easy! Suitable for virgin soil, dense soil, turfy soil.

Father Gennady's shovel "Vyatka Plowman":
Increases the speed of digging up soil by approximately 4 times;
Unlike a regular shovel, it does not require you to bend over and squat;
In one go, it pulls out a volume of soil twice as large as a shovel;
Makes planting potatoes convenient and quick by dumping the soil to the side.

A few years ago they showed on television how a priest in the Russian outback was deftly digging a plot of land with a strange shovel, at the top of which there was... a bicycle handlebar. I was very interested in this (I myself had not seen that program), and according to the words of my wife, who saw that program, I designed a miracle shovel with which you can easily dig up the ground twice as fast and without bending over at all, thereby not loading your back.

Materials for making the shovel were used at hand:
1. The handlebar is from an old bicycle, I put pieces of hose on the handles, it’s more convenient to work.

2. Pipe from of stainless steel diameter 22 mm.

3. Shovel made of cold-rolled stainless steel 2 mm thick

4 Pin with a spring or steel movable (adjust to the ground).

Abroad, as well as in our country, every year they come up with something new in loosening the soil so that the microflora is not disturbed, and the microorganisms remain at their level: the lower ones are at the bottom, and the upper ones are at the top, which is very important for future harvests in gardens and country houses. areas.

When digging with such a shovel, you get pure pleasure: you want to work and work, but you don’t get tired at all. It is very good for older people suffering from radiculitis and other diseases of the spine.

It is not suitable for digging up grass or cereals, because the soil needs to be turned upside down, but it turns the soil only 180 degrees, and with a sudden movement 100-120 degrees is enough

You can also use material from a miner's shovel. From the height of a person (namely the arm lever), I derived the formula:

Thus, I determined the height of the miracle shovel - from the steering wheel (top part) to the cutting part (I sharpened the shovel at the bottom).
The steering wheel is aligned in a straight line. The pin enters the pipe and is secured with a 2.11 M8 bolt and is used to rotate the miracle shovel.
You need to start digging from right to left or right to back
I am adding drawings for making a miracle shovel. Such a tool satisfies me; I work willingly and without particularly straining. I advise everyone to make such a miracle shovel in order to make their difficult work easier.

A do-it-yourself plow is a universal invention that is suitable for both plowing the land and planting potatoes. You can make a plow yourself from available materials. The proposed plow model consists of a control unit and a device designed for plowing (plow). The control unit is a stand, which consists of the main control elements and accessories. Namely:
1 – rectifier bridge (power supply).
2 – electric motor.
3 – gearbox combined with a gear.
4 – cable - 5 mm, acting as a winch.
5 – anchor (working part of the shovel).

A plow, which is designed for plowing land, consists of the following elements:
1 – steering wheel (plow control lever).
2 – ploughshare.
3 – base with fastenings.

Installation and connection of the plow.
1. The anchor must be installed at an angle for better support.

2. After which the anchor should be deepened into the ground up to the connecting strip.

3. Then the anchor is connected to the control device using a piece of reinforcement.

4. In front of the barrier bar, near the cable, reinforcement is also driven in. It will additionally hold the control unit in place during operation.

5. In the working position, the gearbox is in the engaged position.

6. The control unit is ready for operation.

7. After installing and securing the control device, attach the plow to it. To do this, the free end of the cable is attached to the base of the plow.

Operating principle and operation.
1. The plow is carried to the required distance.
2. The ploughshare is driven into the ground to the required depth.

3. Left leg is installed on a ploughshare, and the right one rests on the ground.

4. Thus, while moving the plow along the ground, the tiller pushes off with his right foot and controls the plow using his weight.

5. During operation, the plow steering wheel should not exceed the level of the plowman’s belt.

6. When the plow reaches the end of plowing, the control unit is turned off and the plow is again taken to the opposite side of the site. A plow made according to this principle is capable of plowing land that has been left without care for a long time.