DIY hanging lamp. DIY chandelier: manufacturing methods, examples, photos

There is no doubt that properly executed kitchen lighting sets the tone for the entire interior. A chandelier can become the central element in this cozy and warm room.

Using scrap materials - or even waste - you can make a lampshade from threads, an eco-style lamp from jute twine or plastic bottles, or you can make a real masterpiece– a beautiful chandelier made of wooden or glass beads.

You can also not only hang a lamp made by yourself in the kitchen or dining area, but also give it to your loved ones as a gift.

Method 1. From scrap materials - anyone can do it!

The simplest DIY lamp is made from threads. Indeed, even a child can handle such a design. So, to make a chandelier from threads, we will need:

• Threads - you can take regular jute twine or thick cotton threads, total length at least 100 meters, the color is chosen based on your imagination and the existing interior;
• PVA glue and brush for applying it;
• Petrolatum;
• 2 balloons - one for work, the second for testing; It is better to take a round ball, not an ordinary one, then the shape of the lamp will be the correct shape.

Advice! A children's or rubber beach ball will also work. For very large lamps, a fitball, for example, is suitable.

Work on creating a ball of thread is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Inflate the balloon to the required size. Do not forget that the resulting lampshade made of threads will repeat the shape of the ball. Using a marker, draw one or two circles at the top and bottom (more at the bottom).
2. Pour glue into a container and carefully process the threads. And the ball itself can be coated with Vaseline with a brush.

Advice! You shouldn’t apply glue to all the threads at once - it’s better to move along the winding area.

1. Next comes winding the threads around the ball, taking into account the drawn holes - the density of the winding determines how your lampshade will ultimately turn out.

1. After the ball is wrapped, you need to leave the future chandelier to dry for at least 24 hours.
2. The ball bursts and its remains are easily removed from the now solid structure. The result was a lampshade made of solid threads.
3. A hole is cut at the top to accommodate the cartridge.
4. You need to check the strength - another balloon is inserted into the lamp and inflated. This will demonstrate the flexibility of the design.

In this way, you can also create local lighting in the kitchen by creating several lamps from threads with your own hands. Or you can hang it in the dining area, as shown in the photo.

Do not forget that for a ball of thread you can make additional decor in the form of interesting coloring, beads, butterflies or artificial flowers, or you can make a whole bunch of balls of different sizes.

Using the same principle, you can come up with your own unique lamp design. For example, made of lace, or a ceiling lamp as in the photo below.

Method 2. Creating a masterpiece - you need to try!

You can get excellent kitchen lighting if you make your own lamp from beads or fabric. You will get a lamp in style or a real chandelier-chandelier.

For this job you will need:

• An old hoop, garden basket, hanging metal planter, or wire to create a frame;
• Decorative chains;
• Beads, beads, ribbons, strong threads;
• Lamp socket.

The lamp will be a two- or three-level structure of rings located one above the other and connected by chains or wire.

Rings can be taken different sizes, creating a lampshade in the spirit of a vintage classic, or the same - this is exactly the kind of lighting that is performed in.

The base of the lamp is certainly painted, wrapped or decorated, after which they begin to string the beads.

The consumption of beads in this project is as follows:

Bottom part: beads with a diameter of 16 mm, 15 pcs. on a thread;

Upper part: beads with a diameter of 12 mm, 31-32 pcs. on the thread.

Here you can vary the degree of tension and the number of threads.

Advice! The work should be carried out by first hanging the chandelier and inserting a socket into it.

By analogy, you can create a chandelier from artificial fruits for the kitchen. And subdued lighting will be achieved if you use fabric to cover the frame. As a rule, such a lampshade is made for country and country styles.

Method 3. Lamps made from waste materials - for a modern kitchen!

The most original lamp can be made from this waste material, like plastic bottles and disposable spoons - they are beautiful, cheap and environmentally friendly!

We make a lampshade in a minimalist style and - no additional decorations from threads or beads, only matte white or colored plastic. To make such dim kitchen lighting with your own hands, we will need:

• Base made from a 5-liter plastic bottle;
• Cartridge with wire and lamp;
• Glue for high-quality fixation;
• Lots of disposable spoons.

To make a chandelier with your own hands, cut out the bottom of the bottle and cut off the handles of the spoons (not completely, so that a small handle remains). Using glue, we fix the cut spoons on the base bottle. They need to be placed evenly, in a row, then the lampshade will look attractive.

Advice! Each next row overlaps, without gaps.

The resulting chandelier will resemble fish scales. However, it should be remembered that this design is quite dense, which means that additional lighting will definitely be needed in the kitchen.

The shape of the lamp can be different, for example, in the form of a lotus.

You can also make such decorations from disposable spoons.

A lamp made from plastic bottles, or rather from their bottoms, made with your own hands, may seem like lace or consisting of many small flowers.

Advice! Such a lampshade can be made not white, but colored - which means you need to take colored bottles or paint it with paint original color: copper, gold, steel, pink, black, etc.

The resulting lampshade can be hung in the kitchen or above the dining table.

Let your kitchen be cozy and bright! We wish you creative success and present some more wonderful ideas for making kitchen lamps with your own hands from improvised materials.

Making decorative items yourself is a creative and interesting process. It’s not at all difficult to make wall lamps with your own hands, which can beautifully complement the interior of the room, giving it, in addition to additional lighting, comfort and home warmth. The convenience of making such crafts also lies in the fact that it does not require large material costs for the purchase of material. So, do, for example, wall sconce You can do it yourself, even using improvised means that can be found in every home. In our article we will look at examples of independent design of wall lighting fixtures with examples of photos of finished samples.

DIY wall lamps: what you need to make

In order to make a sconce with your own hands, you need tools, a base, an electrical wiring system with a base and a bulb, and materials for the lampshade.

As for the tools, we will not list a huge number of everything that may be needed in one case or another, but we will only say about the main ones that will be useful one way or another, namely:
stationery (pencil, rulers, eraser, possibly a compass);

• roulette;
• jigsaw or fine file;
• a drill with drills to install a wall sconce with your own hands;
• a heated glue gun (it glues a variety of materials much more firmly than any other);
• scissors;
• paint or colored spray can.

DIY wall lamp: making a frame

The basis for the lamp will be a round or square board cut from an MDF sheet. It should have the dimensions of the future sconce with your own hands (photos are presented in the article). It is also necessary to make slots in the base for installing light bulb sockets. Their number will depend on how bright the lighting should be. When making slits, be sure to take into account the thickness of the light bulbs in order to correctly calculate the distance between them.

It is also necessary to cut out the sidewalls for the perimeter of the base, and make a small gap in the bottom of them in order to pass the electrical wire. The sides are fastened with self-tapping screws, the places of the caps are covered with putty. It is advisable to use sandpaper for uniform grouting.
DIY wall lamps can include color design. The entire frame can be initially coated with a primer, which will ensure a long service life and painted in the desired color.

Fasteners or hooks are installed on the back of the side parts, with the help of which the lamp will be mounted to the wall.

We equip the lamp on the wall with our own hands with electrical wiring

Electricity supply equipment will require power cord with a plug and switch (you may have to buy one or use the one left over from a non-working lamp). The socket can also be removed from obsolete lighting fixtures.

DIY wall lamps, or more precisely, their lampshades, are often made of flammable materials such as fabrics, paper, threads, etc. In order to avoid fire, it is worth using energy-saving fluorescent light bulbs, which have high luminous efficiency with low heating.

Light bulbs with sockets are attached to the finished frame, the wire is routed through the equipped hole. At this point, we can assume that the DIY wall lamp is half ready. Now it’s time to start making the lampshade.

DIY lampshade for sconces from scrap materials

There are many methods using materials such as wood (various twigs), fabrics, threads, etc. It is imperative to have a wire that can hold its shape well for a long time, but at the same time bend well.

DIY wooden wall lamp

After pruning large trees, various branches and snags remain, which can be successfully used by decorating wall lamps with your own hands. The photos show how a seemingly ordinary piece of driftwood turned into an elegant sconce. To do this, all I had to do was cut and sand the points, and make a hole inside for the electrical wire.

Another way to make a spectacular sconce from wood with your own hands is to decorate it with twigs grapevine, arranging them in different sequences. This lamp will become a real decoration for a room in eco style.

Beautiful DIY wall lamps (photos below) can be made from wicker. They can be made different ways weaving, but for beginners it’s worth starting with simple designs.

DIY sconce with thread lampshade

It is quite easy to make such a lamp for the wall with your own hands. To do this, you need to have a thick thread of any color (you can take white and paint the finished structure in the required color), PVA glue and balloon. The technology is very simple. First of all, we inflate the ball to the size that the lampshade should have and tie it tightly. We first soak the threads in glue, and then, having attached the tip to the base, we begin to wrap them around the ball in a chaotic manner. The winding density can be anything, it all depends on how bright the lighting should be emitted by the DIY wall sconce.

Having finished the winding, you can once again coat the entire workpiece with glue with a brush and hang it to dry. We remove the ball from the completely dried workpiece - to do this, it must first be burst. The lampshade is ready. If necessary, it can be painted in any color using spray paint. It is noteworthy that with such a do-it-yourself sconce (photos are presented in the article) you can emphasize any interior style, depending on the color of the lampshade: white will suit minimalism, black will highlight high-tech, bright yellow or red will complement modernism, etc.

For all chandeliers except glass, it is better to choose led light bulbs. They heat up less during use.

CBC Life YouTube channel

What do you need

• Yarn;
• small photo frame;
• scissors;
• 3 sets of wooden hoops of different diameters;
• 3 identical short and 1 long metal chains;
• pliers;
• bulb;
• lamp pendant.

How to do

1. Wrap the yarn around the photo frame many times and cut. Take a small piece of thread and tie it on top of the yarn so that the ends remain. Cut the threads on one side, where the frame hole is located.

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2. Remove the yarn from the frame and fold it in half. Place the knotted thread in the middle so that its ends are at the bottom and the loop is at the top. Details are in the video below. Cut another piece of thread and use it to tie a tassel just below the loop.

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3. Make the rest of the tassels in the same way. The quantity depends on the diameter of the hoop. The threads should frame them tightly.

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4. Remove the center hoops from all hoops - you won't need them. Open the large hoop and put some of the tassels on them by the loops.

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5. Close the large hoop. Place the tassels on the rest in the same way.

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6. Make nine pieces of thread. Place the middle hoop into the large one and tie them in three places at the same distance from each other.

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7. Place a small hoop inside and tie it to the middle one in three places. These threads should be located approximately in the middle between those that connect the large and medium ones.

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8. Turn the design over and straighten the tassels. Tie short chains to a large hoop at equal distances from each other.

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9. Use pliers to open the end link of the long chain. Place the attached chains on it and close it.

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10. Attach the pendant to the ceiling, screw in the light bulb and thread the lampshade through the bottom. A long chain can be hung, for example, on a hook mounted on the ceiling next to the base of the chandelier.

What other options are there?

There is another way to mount the chandelier. Place a metal ring on the lamp hanger and attach chains tied to the hoop to it. The detailed process is shown in the video below. By the way, the technology for making brushes in it is slightly different. And the author does not use a hoop, but metal hoops.

The tips of the brushes can be painted in a contrasting color:

Or make a gradient chandelier from colored threads, like here:

YouTube channel Coral

What do you need

• Globe;
• drill;
• stationery knife;
• marker or pencil;
• lamp pendant;
• bulb.

How to do

1. Remove the globe from the stand. At the bottom, go around the circle with a drill and cut a hole. Details are in the video below.

YouTube channel Coral

2. On the other side at the top, mark a circle the size of the light bulb socket. Go through it with a drill too and cut a hole.

YouTube channel Coral

3. Make several holes on the globe with a drill in any places. You can walk along the edges of the continents or highlight some countries. Light will flow beautifully through the holes.

YouTube channel Coral

4. Attach the light bulb pendant, screw it in and hang the chandelier.

What do you need

• Balloon;
• PVA glue;
• water;
• felt-tip pen;
• thick threads, such as yarn or twine;
• scissors;
• lamp pendant;
• bulb.

How to do

1. Inflate the balloon. Mix glue and water in a ratio of approximately 2:1. You can use even less water.

On the part of the ball where the air enters, draw a small circle the size of the lamp pendant. WITH reverse side draw a circle of larger diameter: for convenience, you can outline, for example, a glass.

YouTube channel The DIY Cottage

2. It is better to cover the working surface with newspapers or oilcloth and put gloves on your hands. Soak thoroughly in adhesive solution threads and start wrapping them around the ball.

YouTube channel The DIY Cottage

3. Continue gluing the ball with thread, trying not to touch the circles outlined. Arrange them randomly. The density of the layer depends on your taste: you can completely cover the workpiece or leave some free space.

YouTube channel The DIY Cottage

4. Leave the structure to dry for about two days. Then deflate the ball and carefully remove it.

YouTube channel The DIY Cottage

5. Thread the socket into the smaller hole, screw in the lamp and hang the chandelier by the pendant.

diynetwork.com

What do you need

• Glass bottles;
• glass bottle cutting machine;
• sandpaper;
• decorative wire;
• lamp hangers;
• light bulbs.

How to do

1. Rinse the bottles thoroughly and remove the stickers, if any. Cut the bottom using a machine and go along the edge of the cut with sandpaper.

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2. Thread the wire into the neck and attach the socket. Randomly wrap the bottles with decorative wire and screw in the light bulbs.

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What other options are there?

In this master class, bottles were attached to a wooden base and the chandelier was decorated with artificial greenery:

What do you need

• Veneer in rolls (very thin sheets of wood);
• measuring tape;
• pencil;
• scissors;
• iron;
• parchment;
• paper clips;
• glue gun;
• lamp pendant;
• bulb.

How to do

1. Cut six 90 cm long strips from the veneer.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

2. Iron them through the parchment to ensure the veneer is even.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

3. Place two strips crosswise on top of each other and secure with paper clips. Attach another ribbon to the side.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

4. Make another piece of the same shape from veneer. This triangle should be larger than the previous one.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

5. Place the pieces on top of each other as shown in the photo.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

6. Mark the outline of a small triangle on the bottom piece. Also trace the outlines of the intersecting stripes on both parts. All the details are in the video below.

7. Remove the top part, remove the staples from the bottom in one place. Lubricate the junction of the strips with glue and glue them together.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

8. Treat the veneer in the other two places in the same way. Glue the top piece. Place it on the bottom one along the marked marks and attach it with a gun.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

9. Connect adjacent strips of the upper part with paper clips, as shown in the photo and video below.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

10. Fasten adjacent strips of the lower part, pulling them under the upper ones.

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11. Glue the areas connected by paper clips. On the back side, in the middle, attach the part into which the light bulb is screwed, trace around the inside and cut off the excess.

YouTube channel Søstrene Grene

12. Insert the pendant, secure it to the ceiling and screw in the light bulb.

What other options are there?

Here is a more classic lamp made from veneer:

This is the process of creating an unusual large chandelier with spanning wooden beam light bulbs:

And here we show you how to make a beautiful wooden frame for an old, unsightly lamp:

What do you need

• Plastic bottle with a volume of 20 l;
• gold spray paint;
• black spray paint;
• lamp pendant;
• bulb.

How to do

1. Carefully cut off the bottle top part. The bottom one will no longer be useful. Remove the cover.

YouTube channel Elyasaf shweka
YouTube channel Elyasaf shweka

3. Cover it on the outside black paint. Let the future chandelier dry completely.

YouTube channel Elyasaf shweka

4. Place the chandelier on the pendant and screw in the light bulb.

What other options are there?

To make this chandelier, we took a five-liter bottle and decorated it with the remains of wallpaper folded using the origami technique:

YouTube channel Wayfair.com

What do you need

• Basket (for example, straw);
• pencil;
• knife or other suitable tool for cutting;
• lamp pendant;
• bulb.

How to do

1. Trace the cartridge in the middle of the bottom of the basket. Cut a hole along the line.

YouTube channel Wayfair.com

2. Insert the cartridge there and secure it from the inside.

YouTube channel Wayfair.com

3. Screw in the light bulb and hang the chandelier from the pendant.

In this article we will figure out how to make a complete and safe lamp with your own hands. In the initial publication of the series - - general quality requirements, methods of forming luminous flux, as well as how to choose a light source and - safety first - rules for connecting a stationary lamp to the electrical network. From the previous article we learned how to make the main lighting parts of a lamp -. Now it's time to get to grips with the solid, reliable and beautiful structural foundation of it all.

About LEDs

LEDs as lighting sources are becoming increasingly popular: they are very economical, durable, almost do not heat up, which gives ample opportunities for independent construction and design. In addition, low voltage power makes LED light sources safe. Therefore in this article a significant portion of the material is devoted to how to make your own LED lamp.

However, the quality of light from LEDs has not yet reached ideal: its spectrum is quite harsh. It can be softened using various lighting techniques, which was discussed in previous articles. But thanks low voltage supply a street or garden LED lamp can be made independently without special precautions, and can also be autonomous; then volumetric ones disappear excavation and laying cables on the site. In this section, we will focus more on LED lamps.

Some examples of what can be achieved by using lighting equipment with your own hands are shown in the photo. Anyone who knows how to use the Internet can create a similar collection “for ideas” or “for inspiration.” And here we will deal with things that are not so aesthetic: how to translate all this into material. Cheap, reliable and practical. Preferably at home, “on your knees.”

Materials, tools, equipment, technologies

To do good lamp, expensive and/or hard-to-find materials will not be needed. Previous technologies are focused on incandescent lamps, which get very hot and consume a lot of current. Today's homemade products have economy lamps and LED lamps that emit little heat, which allows them to simplify the design.

To make a lamp that is not inferior in appearance or quality to industrial designs, we will need scraps of metal tubes, steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2.5 mm, galvanized steel sheets 0.4-1 mm thick and pieces of plastic or inexpensive plastic products, see below. And in many cases, to achieve the desired result, it is possible to do without unnecessary rubbish. Processing wood for a complex lamp is a special case, and we will not ignore it.

Note: Good old glass should not be discounted either. Take a look, for example, at this master class: diy.ru/post/3916/. This is what you can achieve by working at home with such difficult material. There is just one small “but” - what the author of the product (a man, no doubt, very skillful and shrewd) calls cutting is actually edging. However, what to call it is a matter of literalists, but for the master it is enough for the thing to turn out good.

Quite simple, but tasteful

Examples of excellent lamps made from scrap materials, namely scraps of wood and paper, are the well-known Chinese lanterns, see fig. When using modern light sources, their fire hazard is negligible, much less than that of an electric kettle. The base is most often a slatted frame covered with paper, pos. 1. For the frame of the one in pos. 2, thin bamboo sticks (you can split an old fishing rod into strips) or the ends of modern fiberglass fishing rods are better suited; sold in fishing stores. The joints are wrapped with thread and glued. After pasting, the paper (preferably rice paper) is lightly sprayed with water from a spray bottle. Once dry, it will stretch. After this, the paper is varnished for strength.

A Chinese lantern can be made entirely of wood: chopsticks or table skewers (wooden rods on which shish kebab and kebab are served to the table). Both are made from light wood that reflects light quite well. And its slightly rough surface effectively scatters light, which softens it.

From chopsticks, placing their widened heads alternately to the left and to the right, side light-transmitting panels are assembled, pos. 3. And from table skewers you can make a good ceiling lamp for the kitchen or hallway, pos. 4. The ends of the sticks (they are made of soft wood) are simply pierced with a sewing needle with a fishing line threaded into it.

Plastics

But let's get back to the materials, we're not done with them yet. Excellent parts for chandeliers, table lamps and floor lamps (cups, caps, see below) are obtained from reusable plastic dishes– bowls, glasses, saucers: the rim on the bottom is carefully cut off or sanded off. Then this place is passed 2-3 times with increasingly fine sandpaper; the last pass is “velvet” and polished with felt and GOI paste. The decorative, lighting and technological (ease of processing) qualities of such parts are very good.

The second type of plastic, which allows you to make a very original lamp (see figure) is polymer clay or simply plastic. In terms of lighting properties, it is not inferior to light wood, and in a thin, 2-3 mm layer, it is translucent, like milk glass, i.e. softens the light very well.

Polymer clay is available in various colors and is immediately plastic in plastic bags and bars, like plasticine. The latter are quite hard at first, but soften when kneaded. To speed up and facilitate softening, you need to put 3-4 drops of vegetable oil on the block, and start kneading when it is absorbed.

From soft plastic lampshades are sculpted on a frame greased with Vaseline. Immediately, if necessary, fill in the texture with a brush, at the bottom right in Fig. To obtain an openwork lampshade, cut off the tip of the package and squeeze out the mass into a sausage. After about a day, the product will dry, then you can, without removing it from the mandrel, cut out figures, scallops, and frills. The product dries completely in 3-7 days.

Bar plastic is used to make lamp stands. After molding the workpiece, it is baked in the oven at 120-130 degrees. When a brownish crust forms on the product, turn off the gas to a minimum and “bake” for another 1-3 hours, depending on the size of the part. It should cool completely in the oven, which is not advisable to open. The baked workpiece can be cut, sawed, drilled, polished, and painted. In this way, lamp bodies are sometimes not just original, but also quite piquant (see figure), and even frivolous to the point of decency, or even beyond it.

Ceramics

Since we're talking about stands, let's try to make a lamp from a bottle. Ceramic drink vessels designed by in-house designers deserve best use than garbage, moonshine or recyclables for pennies.

There are 2 problems here: stability and holes for cable entry and a switch. The first is solved with sand filled 2/3 or 3/4 into the bottle. To solve the second, it seems that you need a tubular diamond drill, which is expensive, wears out quickly, and requires a high-speed drilling machine. And we can do without all this:

• Let's select a copper tube of a suitable diameter.
• We will securely fix the vessel that we are going to drill so that the drill enters normally (perpendicular) to its surface in this place.
• Around the site of the future hole we will mold a roller 4-6 mm high from plasticine.
• Let's rub a couple of pieces of fine sandpaper against each other over a tray to get about a teaspoon of corundum powder.
• Pour it into the hole and add 3-5 drops machine oil- can be drilled.

For drilling a drill clamped in a chuck copper tube It's better to put it in a bed that turns it into a tabletop drill press. Such beds are sold in tool stores; the prices are divine, the benefits to the craftsman are invaluable. Moreover, you can buy a rotary table with a degree scale for the frame.

They drill into ceramics using copper and corundum using pushes: press a little - lift - press again - lift. The abrasive particles first eat into the copper and drill, but then immediately break off and crumble. Pulse drilling constantly renews the corundum “sputtering” on copper, and the oil prevents the powder from scattering and speeds up the work. The main thing is that the tube falls exactly into the already selected groove with each feed.

Electrical fittings

For a novice lighting technician, it is probably best to use sockets for lamps for a regular E27 base with fastening with union shaped nuts (threaded flanges); its designation begins with E27Н, and the drawing is shown in Fig. It will not be possible to attach such a cartridge, or a regular one with a skirt, with a threaded fitting in the lid: if you find an M10x1 or M12x1 die, then at home, using a hand crank, cutting a thread on a thin-walled tube without cutting through it or twisting it is very difficult, even with lubricant. For fastening with flanges you will have to make a fastening ring, as described in the article about lampshades, this is much simpler.

Note: if done Wall Light, in which the lamp is located along the base, then sockets with a side bar are usually used, see figure, but they are more expensive. In this case, you can also get by with a flange cartridge: bend an Ω-shaped clamp from the wire and attach it to the base with self-tapping screws.

The second thing you need is a screw terminal connector, or a terminal block, or just a terminal block, to connect the lamp to the wiring. For a chandelier, it is mandatory not only for ease of installation, but also according to safety requirements: suddenly the chandelier breaks, its thinner wires will break out of the terminal block, and the ceiling wiring will not be damaged, which will prevent an accident and ceiling-slotting repair work.

It is better to take the terminal block of the “comb” type, see figure:

These are compact, reliable, eliminate accidental short circuits, and by cutting jumpers between sections, it is easy to get a connector for the required number of wires. It is allowed to insert no more than 2 stranded wires with a copper cross-section of up to 1.4 square meters into each terminal. mm in total and no more than 1 single-core, regardless of the cross-sectional area of ​​its current-carrying core.

About wooden lamps

Wood, on the one hand, is easy to process and looks solid when finished. On the other hand, to make an elegant wooden lamp, you will have to use some special technological techniques. Which we will consider.

Cable channels

The first problem that arises when making a wooden lamp is how to make cable channels in long parts. To do this, without special equipment, “on your knee,” you can use a wood drill with a narrowed 6-sided shank, see fig. A metal tube is tightly placed on it, crimped, and the opposite end is bent in a T-shape to form a hand crank; To make the work easier and more accurate, it is better to use a double-band drill.

Through axial holes in long wooden parts are drilled in advance, before bending:

1. Blind holes are drilled at both ends of the workpiece required diameter, with a depth of 30-40 mm, trying to ensure that they go as accurately as possible along the axis of the part;
2. Drill with the described hand crank alternately from both ends, each time going through no more than 3-4 thicknesses of the part;
3. Chips from the holes are carefully removed after each pass;
4. After the connection, the jumpers pass through the hole twice, from one end and the other. This is necessary to remove the step inside, on which the cable could get caught when tightening.

How to bend wood?

Bent lamp wooden parts it is quite possible to do it yourself: seasoned fine-grained wood softens under heat without delaminating, and when it cools, it retains its given shape. The easiest to bend are bamboo, walnut and soft wood, eg. Linden. More difficult is wood of medium hardness: maple, ash, hornbeam. It is better for a novice cabinetmaker not to undertake bending oak, beech, rowan and other hardwoods. MDF also bends well.

They bend wood either steamed in boiling water or heated dry to more than 150 degrees. The first method is simpler, but is suitable, except for bamboo, for few species. The second is more difficult, but more accurate, because The wood does not swell and, accordingly, does not shrink when cooling.

To bend wood, you need a piece of steel pipe: with a welded end for steaming or with both ends open for dry bending. The steaming pipe is installed obliquely, the workpiece is placed in it, filled with water and boiled. The boiling water should be vigorous so that the workpiece is bathed in bubbles of steam. The process is continued for 10-120 minutes, depending on the thickness, species and condition of the tree. You can remove the workpiece for a few seconds to check its readiness, but you only need to add boiling water to replace the boiled water. Dry bending, blowing the workpiece in the pipe construction hairdryer. First, you need to check on a sample of wood what temperature it can withstand without charring or cracking.

How to tighten cables?

The cables are tightened into the tubular parts of the lamps using a guide rod - a “fishing rod” - made of copper wire with a diameter of 0.5-0.7 mm. The “fishing rod” must be completely level; Even a smoothly curved wire wound from a reel can become crumpled in a narrow channel. The wire of the “fishing rod” is straightened by pulling it through a rag held tightly in the fist. The best guides are made from enameled winding wire, which is smooth and slippery.

The “fishing rod” is inserted from the far end. Before doing this, its tip is bent tightly, see figure, so that it is rounded. The rod is pushed into the curved channels by slightly pushing and turning. When moving from channel to channel (see below), the running end is guided with thin long tweezers or a screwdriver.

When the end of the rod appears on the opposite side, it is cleaned to 20-30 mm and tinned. The cable wires are stripped and tinned for the same amount, up to 3 per 1 “rod”. Then everything is rolled together and soldered. The twist is bent in the opposite direction to the tightening direction so that it does not snag. Tighten by alternately feeding the cable and tightening the guide. When tightening, the cable in the channel should not be tensioned all the time! If it gets caught, pull it back a little, turn it a little and pull again.

Note: into a straight metal tube with an internal diameter of 12 mm, you can tighten up to 4 2-wire cables in double insulation with a copper cross-section of up to 0.5 square meters. mm. In a channel of the same diameter in a tree there is only 1 cable of the same type.

Starting from the ceiling

Hanging a lamp from a ceiling or wall is the most critical and vulnerable part. Hanging lamps at the 1st point is only allowed if the base is a viscous, durable material, for example. oak beams, pos. a) in Fig. In other cases, you must either use at least 2 suspension points, or the anchor of the lamp must press on the material from above, i.e. the ceiling must work in compression, pos. c) – d).

A chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is suspended using fastening strip, see fig. on right. The distance between the centers of the mounting holes in the plank should be, for a concrete ceiling, at least 9 of their diameters. If the ceiling is plasterboard, or suspended, or suspended, then the suspension is lowered from the main ceiling to the decorative level using wooden or metal profile crosses or plywood slabs at the top there. How to make a suspension in some other cases, we will look further.

The main requirement for hanging is that the lamp should under no circumstances hang on wires. It should be held by either a rigid rod, or a strong cord/rope, or a cradle made of chains or the same cords. Under the top cap of the suspension, the power cable should lie in a loose loop and should not be pulled, crushed or pinched anywhere.

How to make a lamp?

Now he will try to combine the information received into a solid product, at the sight of which the guests will gasp as soulfully as the master expressed himself while working. We will be guided by the following principles:

• We avoid complex and/or technological operations requiring special skills in every possible way.
• We use adhesive or soldered joints only as auxiliary ones that hold the joined parts from moving. A product assembled without gluing or soldering should, in the absence of external influences, remain intact in its normal position for an indefinitely long time.
• From additional tool We’ll try to make do with a hand-held electric drill and a small removable bench vise with a screw clamp for fastening to the table.

Let's start with the chandelier, as the most complex type household lamp.

Chandelier

On a cord

The simplest suspension of a chandelier weighing up to 5 kg is on a cord, pos. 1 in Fig. In this case, you will have to additionally drill 4 holes in the lampshade mounting ring (see article on lampshades); marked in green at pos. 1a. Cord knots must be knitted so that they do not slip or unravel, for example. any fishing hooks. Cord - any rot-resistant cross lay (for example, linen) with an untensioned diameter of 8 mm. Spiral cords and ropes are not designed for long-term tensile loads!

The most important part is the suspension hook (red gearbox). It must be bent from steel wire with a diameter of 4 mm; a hook made of 6 mm wire rod will support a weight of up to 35 kg. Of course, if you buy a ready-made hook for a chandelier, it won’t be any worse.

Suspension rods with the same weight are made of 4 mm wire; with a weight of up to 5 kg you can get by with a 1.5 mm one, and with a weight up to 12 kg - 2.5-3 mm. The ring is made of galvanized sheets 0.4 and 0.8 mm, respectively, or, for weights up to 35 kg, 1.4 mm.

Note: the technology for soldering steel at home is described in.

Secure the top cup from sliding into in this case better with a rubber ring, because the spring washer can crush the cable running underneath it. Good pallet obtained from a computer disk. Depending on whether the lamp is in the lampshade or in the shade, it is turned downwards, respectively, with the painted or mirrored side. Radial cuts are made in the tray for the lampshade extensions.

The upper cup and cap are made of plastic dishes, see above. The cap lies freely on the pallet. Adhesive – any assembly glue.

Note: The lower nut securing the cartridge should fit into the hole in the pan, and not press it. Otherwise, there may be difficulties when repairing or cleaning the chandelier.

On the phone

In a chandelier suspended on a rigid tubular rod (item 2), firstly, it is not necessary to bend the suspension rods so that it is convenient to tie a knot at their crosshairs. Secondly, the number of pulls can be anything from 3. Accordingly, the ring can be made without an additional row of holes, such as is described in the article on lampshades.

It is preferable to fix the cap in such a chandelier with a shaped (decorative) spring washer. It can be obtained from a thick plastic button by drilling a hole in the center 0.5-0.7 mm narrower than the outer diameter of the tube and making an oblique cut on the side at 45 degrees to the axis of the washer, a round link in a plastic chain with the same cut, etc. P.

The eyelet for the hook in the suspension rod is obtained by flattening the tube and drilling a hole in the resulting lamella (petal). After this (and not before), a hole is drilled for laying the cable, otherwise dangerous mechanical stresses may remain in the material. A rod for a lamp weight of up to 15 kg can be made from the following types of pipes:

1. Solid drawn steel – internal diameter from 6 mm, wall thickness from 0.5 mm. Finishing – painting or covering with heat-shrinkable tube (HERE) in the desired color.
2. Steel with seam – internal. diameter from 8 mm, wall thickness from 0.7 mm. The finishing is the same.
3. Copper gas in a plastic shell - internal. diameter from 8 mm, wall from 1 mm. No finishing is needed, and it will shine like copper for years. You cannot solder; under the adhesive joint you need to remove the plastic covering in that place.
4. For air conditioning systems made of oxygen-free copper – internal. diameter from 10 mm, wall from 1 mm. Very easy to solder and glue. To preserve the copper shine, you need to coat the finished rod twice with transparent acrylic varnish on water based, diluted twice with distilled water.
5. Simple red copper – internal. diameter from 12 mm, wall from 1.5 mm. It is soldered after stripping, you need to use flux paste with borax. It darkens over time and under the coating, so it is better to make retro-style lamps from such tubes.
6. Plumbing propylene ones are very durable, but do not glue and, of course, cannot be soldered with solder. There is no point in finishing it, the design turns out horrifying in any case.

Many-horned

From the tubes you can make chandeliers with brackets-horns for individual illuminators. The device for connecting the horns with the rod is shown in pos. 5. The horns, if their number is even, are connected in pairs with through threaded rods M2.5-M4 with nuts and spring washers. Pairs of holes for studs are located on different levels, this must be taken into account when calculating the height of the straight part of the horn and making markings on their blanks. You can have horns, incl. if their number is odd, fasten them with pairs of small metal screws, but then you need to tighten the cables very carefully so as not to tear the insulation on the sharp ends of the hardware protruding inward.

Note: Complex/extended bends of tubes are formed in sections, gradually moving a manual pipe bender along the length of the future bend.

If the free ends of the horns are without squiggles (sorry - volute), etc. curls, then it is better to cover their connection with the bar with a cap lying on the lower cup (shown by the dotted line in position 5). In addition, then the laying of cables will be much simpler: a terminal block will be placed under the hood, in which the cables from the horns will converge, and only one 2-wire will go up in the rod.

Multi-arm chandeliers are most often made with switchable light. The diagram for connecting lamps to a 2-section switch is shown in pos. 6. Don’t forget - SB switches (switches) must be connected to the phase wire! And also, it is extremely important: if the house is equipped protective grounding, Never use a grounding wire as a neutral (zero, N) regardless of the power supply circuit (solidly grounded or isolated neutral)! The ground electrode is always in yellow insulation with a longitudinal stripe, and the neutral insulation in properly arranged wiring is black. But anyway, before we start electrical installation work you need to find zero and phase with a phase indicator!

About phases, zero and ground

Safety regulations (STB), electrical installation devices (EPI) and Codes of Rules (SP) for electrical installation work for related industries (for example, construction) clearly regulate the color of insulation of only grounding wires - yellow with a green stripe; The colors indicating phase wires A, B, C and neutral are only recommended. The reason is that in countries where the only acceptable power supply system is a power supply system with an insulated neutral (Germany, Japan, etc.), it is customary to designate phase A in white or light gray. Therefore, select suitable cables from the commercially available ones to make apartment wiring “without a knot, without a hitch" is not always possible.

The chandelier is heavy...

For ceiling lamps weighing 15 kg or more, fastening to the first rod or cord is no longer considered reliable enough. These need to be hung on a chain or rope cradle of 3-4 branches. 1 branch should support the full weight of the lamp with a 3-fold margin.

The cradle is attached to the ceiling using a triangular or square load-bearing steel plate with a thickness of 5 mm or more, pos. 7 in Fig. The number of attachment points is 4 or 5, respectively. An attachment point in the center is required: without it, if one of the corner fasteners becomes too loose, the mechanical load will “slam” onto the next weakest one, the pendant will break out like a domino and the chandelier will “all of a sudden” collapse.

The corner attachment points must be located on a conventional circle (red dotted line) with a diameter in centimeters of at least 0.85 of the chandelier’s weight in kilograms. In any case, the smallest distance between the centers of the holes in the concrete ceiling should be 9 times their diameter, as with a 2-point suspension on a plank, see above. Eyelets or hooks under the cradle branches are welded to the supporting plate. Homemade lugs can be made from 6mm wire rod.

...and ultra-light

Hobbyists make a lot of lamps from disposable plastic tableware, PET bottles and paper. Their weight is negligible, therefore, firstly, it is permissible to mount the socket in the lampshade/shade using the same kebab sticks, see fig. In this case, take the cartridge E17 or E10 with lugs, see fig. left. Using a sewing needle, the “ears” of the cartridge are simply tied to the crosshairs of the sticks with thread, thin copper wire or fishing line.

Secondly, the suspension of a super-light lamp can also be made into a cradle, but from fishing line. Its branches are inserted into the ceiling cap along with the cable, as for a chandelier on a cord. Such a suspension is almost invisible. If the cable (remember, it should not be stretched, pinched or crushed anywhere) is twisted or twisted in a spiral, then an ignorant guest may be stunned at first: levitation? telekinesis? superconductor and magnets?

Floor lamp

A floor lamp based on the same design and technological principles is basically an inverted chandelier on a rigid rod with some differences, pos. 3 in Fig. above with lamp designs. First: the rod (which is already a stand) is made of a steel pipe with an internal diameter of 10 mm and a wall thickness of 1.5 mm. Ring – galvanized from 0.7 mm. Second: all joints of steel parts are soldered.

Further, the lower support of the floor lamp must provide a sufficiently heavy and extensive structure for attaching the bottom of the stand. A crosspiece of approximately 450x450 mm made of oak timber 100x100 mm will fit under a standard type floor lamp. A blind hole with a depth of 75-80 mm is drilled in the center along the outer diameter of the rack, and it is glued into the socket assembly adhesive. They also glue the stand into the shelf of the floor lamp. It will be useful, both in terms of design and strength, to apply a polished washer with a diameter of 60 mm and a thickness of 2 mm (steel) or 4 mm (aluminum) onto the adhesive. The described design allows an amateur to do without custom-turned parts when making a floor lamp.

Desk lamp

A working table lamp based on our construction principles is even simpler than a floor lamp, pos. 4: quite massive and solid foundation(wood, plastic) with stepped through hole along the axis. The lampshade ring is placed on the step and secured with self-tapping screws. Then it will at the same time press the tendrils of the lampshade and it will not dangle.

Note: For the base of a table lamp from ceramic or glassware, you need to make a knob top with a stepped hole that fits onto its neck. The most suitable material for this is plastic.

For outdoor lighting

External 220 V lamps will be left purchased: It is impossible to make a “forever” sealed cable gland for mains voltage and also a sealed housing with glass at home. We will work with voltages up to 12 V, then the cable entry will be quite simple, see fig. And if the light source is powered from a current stabilizer, then no short circuit will be scary.

However, it may not come down to electricity: for temporary lighting in the garden or at a picnic, even in the 21st century, an ordinary candle is often more convenient and cheaper, and it is also more romantic. And you can make a candle lantern with your own hands from a coffee can in just a few minutes, see video:

Video: DIY candle lantern from a coffee can

This lamp is also suitable for a light bulb; then there is no need for ventilation holes and the carrying handle can be attached to the lid, which is more reliable.

A permanent outdoor lamp must already be electric. The main problem in this case is reliable sealing. Here again, glassware with a screw-on lid comes to the rescue: a jar makes a good outdoor lighting fixture. In this case, because a more powerful light source is required, it is better to take a container from conservation. Pipe branch cable entry This is done by piercing the lid with a round, pointed rod. To ensure a complete seal, aquarium silicone is applied to the inside of the lid rim once and for all before screwing it on.

A “once and for all” lamp involves the use of very reliable and durable light sources. Requirements for its quality and spectrum fade into the background, because It is not the living or working space that is illuminated. Taking these conditions into account, it is better to make an outdoor lamp on the porch or, say, at the entrance to the garage from LED strip: it will provide sufficiently bright lighting with a negligible electricity consumption. For an example of making such a lamp, see:

Video: DIY garden lantern in 15 minutes

In the garden and in general on the site, high brightness of lighting is no longer needed, here, in general, just so as not to leave the path and see the door to the bathhouse, cellar, barn or bathroom. But it is very, very desirable to have a garden lamp that is autonomous: the issue here is not the cost of electricity, but of the cable, and who would like to ruin a well-groomed area with trenches?

Garden lamps powered by solar panels (SB) and buffer battery(Batteries) are on sale, but they are either expensive or turn out to be short-lived. Let’s try to figure out whether it’s possible to do this on our own, especially since it’s quite possible:

• 4 white LEDs with a current of 20 mA each in a lampshade made of milk glass or a frosted plastic bottle will illuminate a circle with a diameter of 4-5 m more or less acceptable for garden needs. With a current of each 10 mA in the light spot it will still be possible to see where the stone is, and where is the hole? Total average 60 mA.
• The battery, taking into account weak recharging in winter and reduced capacity in the cold, should provide maximum current to the lights for at least 30 hours. Pen-type batteries with a capacity of 2500-3500 mAh, frost-resistant down to –20, are available for sale. We take the minimum permissible battery capacity of 2500 mAh.
• Voltage drop across the luminous diode is approx. 2 V. In order to stabilize the total current consumption and the battery discharge mode, on which its resource significantly depends, we give twice as much to the quenching resistors, so the total battery voltage is 6 V.
• The SB, taking into account the energy efficiency of the Ni-Cd battery at 74%, should produce a current of approx. 75 mA. For winter in mid-latitudes, we take a rated current of 100 mA.
• Also, taking into account the energy efficiency of the battery and voltage losses during charging, we take the battery voltage to 9 V.
• To ensure that the battery life does not decrease due to overcharging, the recharging current through it should not be more than 5% of the hourly discharge current. With a battery capacity of 2500 mAh and a short-circuit current of 100 mA, this condition is met, and even more so with a battery capacity of 3500 mAh. That is, instead of an expensive and complex charge controller, you can simply install a silicon rectifier diode.

The diagram of an autonomous garden lamp, built taking into account the described conditions, is shown in Fig.:

Despite its simplicity, the battery in it is never brought to the point of degradation of the active medium due to overcharging and only in exceptional cases can it achieve a deep discharge; therefore, its resource remains normal when used in harsh conditions temperature conditions. The “highlight” here is SB. Their internal resistance is large and nonlinear, according to a power law, and increases with increasing load current, as a result of which the short-circuit current of the SB is only slightly greater than the rated one. From this point of view, in this circuit it is more profitable to use less expensive polysilicon SBs.

The control device CU closes the switch S when the SB voltage drops to the “twilight” level. By that time, VD1 will have already closed and the battery will stop charging. The control unit is connected to the battery only for power supply. Switch - diode or transistor optocoupler or electromagnetic relay; in this case, a reed switch is better, because a conventional one with a low-voltage coil will draw more current than all LEDs. In this case, it is impossible to use a thyristor optocoupler as an S: in order for the opened thyristor to close, the current through it must drop to a very small value, almost to zero. Since the current here is constant, the thyristor, once opened, will not “stop” until it completely drains the battery.

About aquarium lighting

For lighting aquariums, special linear lamps are used. fluorescent lamps. Not the same as phytolamps for flower shelves: spectrum aquarium lamps tailored to optical properties water and the vital needs of aquatic plants. Both lamps are unsuitable for general indoor lighting: light that promotes photosynthesis is not always beneficial for human vision.

People who have developed creative abilities very often create interior elements with their own hands, and making a master class chandelier is not difficult. Only it is better to buy factory-made lamps for the bathroom, because they must be small and reliable.

Dwellings containing objects self made, acquire a refined and original look.

We make a chandelier with our own hands from plastic bottles

To make a chandelier from plastic bottles we take:

• If there old chandelier, you can take her island
• Many colorful bottles
• No more than ten steel rods

1. From plastic bottles we use scissors to cut out any figures that you want to see on your chandelier (animals, flowers, etc.)
2. We attach several twigs to the chandelier island. From the rest we make something similar to a hedgehog, connecting the rods in the middle. We remove one rod where the light bulb will be
3. Next, we supplement the resulting frame with previously cut plastic figures.
4. We connect the island and the hedgehog together.

Now you know how to make a plastic chandelier with your own hands. To consolidate the material, we recommend that you watch a video that contains examples of chandeliers made from plastic bottles:

Making a chandelier with your own hands from wood

To make a wooden chandelier we will need:

• Twelve strips for door trim, 30-45 cm each.
• Liter jars from which we will make lampshades (6 pieces).
• White and wood-colored paint.
• Self-tapping screws for wood.
• Sandpaper.
• Seaming machine.

Description of the manufacturing principle.

1. Making the planks smooth using sandpaper
2. We need room for the electrical wire, so we make a notch on the back of each strip.
3. We drill three strips to which we will attach the shades.
4. We paint the planks a wood color.
5. We make a regular hexagon from the plans.
6. We attach the cartridge to the hole in the lid.
7. We roll up the jars with light bulbs inside.
8. We paint the lampshade in any light color.

DIY chandelier made of wood, photo below:

Making a chandelier with your own hands from threads

To make a chandelier from nylon threads we take:

• Let's make a lampshade from a plastic bowl
• Multi-colored threads
• Fastening paste

Description of the manufacturing principle.

1. First of all, let's make the paste. Mix half a glass of flour and two glasses of water, two glasses of water with a temperature above 60 degrees, boil and throw in about three tablespoons of sugar. Stir and wait until it cools down. Next, we’ll look at how to make a lampshade with your own hands for a chandelier.
2. Throw the yarn into the paste.
3. We wind the resulting yarn around a bowl.
4. After 24 hours, separate the resulting thread lampshade from the bowl.
5. We attach the lampshade to the bottom and that’s it, the chandelier can be hung on the ceiling

Attention! A DIY lampshade for a chandelier requires the use of a light bulb of no more than 60W, as it is made of flammable materials.

Have you decided to change your interior and want something unusual? The store offers a huge selection of different things, but why not make something yourself? The designer lives in each of us, you just need to wake him up, change the world that surrounds you, make it the way you see it!

Why not start with a chandelier? She might become business card your home, which no one else has. This will not only save your money but also give you a sea of ​​unforgettable emotions.

Make a chandelier shade with your own hands. You will be surprised that things that you were ready to throw away can be useful to you and reborn in your new invention.

First you need to decide on the style of what kind of chandelier you want.

If you are young - a romantic style chandelier is for you, you need to decorate country house– country style will be just right.

DIY chandelier (photo based on lampshade decorations)

To make a chandelier with our own hands, we take:

• Light bulb socket.
• Power cord.
• Frame for a chandelier.
• Decor for jewelry.
• Multi-colored threads.
• Hot glue.
• 60 Watt light bulb.

For the frame, what's left of your old, long-forgotten chandelier is suitable. Many famous designers began their illustrious careers by giving old items a shine, bringing them back to life and putting them up for sale.

Take measurements and decide on the fabric you will use. Sewing the cover the right size put on the frame. You can decorate the lampshade however you like. These can be cut out flowers, animals, figures, beads and much more that your imagination can reproduce. We attach a socket equipped with a low-power light bulb to the lampshade and everything is ready. A lampshade made by yourself will lift your spirits every time you look at it.

Making a New Year's chandelier with your own hands

How to do New Year's chandelier with your own hands to surprise your friends with your suddenly discovered talent?

To make a chandelier we take:

• Organic glass or thin wooden sheet.
• Linen rope.
• Multi-colored balls.
• Small stapler.
• We use glass parts left over from an old chandelier.

Description of the manufacturing principle.

We start by cutting a square from plexiglass, the dimensions of which are 50:50 cm. We make holes every 5 centimeters throughout the entire area, as chaotically as possible. We take a linen thread and thread it through the water hole and out into another, adjacent one. The length of the extended ends should be two meters. We repeat this procedure until we fill all the holes in the square.

We hang this composition instead of a chandelier on the ceiling and continue to decorate the chandelier as christmas tree. We take the balls and tie nylon threads of different lengths to them, and tie them to the structure, concentrating them in the central part. Next we perform the same operation with glass products, but we hang them already at the edges, the length of the thread should be less than on the balls. If you look at the structure as a whole, it will look like an inverted pyramid.

Now you know how to make a New Year's chandelier with your own hands. Start your crafts right now and you won't stop with the chandelier.

IN Lately Decorations for chandeliers such as thread wrapping have become very fashionable.

Description of the manufacturing principle.

We will need a lot of thread and PVA glue, as well as an inflatable ball. Cotton threads are perfect for our project, since the glue applies evenly to them and behaves obediently.

Wrapping inflated balloon threads, apply glue and wait until it dries. Then we simply pop the ball with a needle. Cut a hole on top for the light bulb and you're done. Your result can be compared with the DIY chandelier in the photo.