Aquarium in a light bulb. LED aquarium lighting

When thinking that it would be nice to have an aquarium, you need to take care not only of the jar and its inhabitants. To successfully keep plants and fish, you need to properly illuminate the aquarium. There are special lamps for this, but they cost a lot, and making a simple one with your own hands is not difficult. You just need to figure out how many lamps are needed, what power and “color”.

When creating aquarium lighting, the main goal is to imitate sunlight as closely as possible. Since almost the entire aquarium “population” comes from the equator, it is necessary to recreate the tropical regime. Firstly, it is the same (or almost the same) duration daylight hours throughout the year (10-12 hours).

Lighting an aquarium with your own hands is not an easy task, but everything can be done...

Secondly, variable lighting intensity: peak at noon and several subsequent hours and moderate lighting at other times of the day. If the lighting of the aquarium is done according to these principles, its inhabitants will delight you with bright colors, and the plants will delight you with lush greenery and rapid growth. Such “multi-level” lighting can be implemented using a large number of lamps (not one powerful one, but several less powerful ones) and a timer/controller that will automatically change the light level.

Calculation of lamp power

A preliminary estimate of the lamp power required to illuminate an aquarium can be based on the common principle of determining required lighting by the amount of water in the container. Exactly water. Not the volume of the jar, but the amount of water. That is, from the volume of the container you need to subtract air gap and the volume displaced by soil. Based on the amount of water received and the type of aquarium (sea, freshwater, herbal), and the type of inhabitants (bottom-dwelling, shade-loving or light-loving), the approximately required lighting power is calculated. Different types of aquariums have their own recommendations, which are summarized in a table for convenience.

According to this table

Knowing the volume of water in your aquarium, using this table it is easy to calculate the required lamp power. But the data is given for incandescent and halogen lamps. If you use them to illuminate the aquarium, no problem. If you decide to use other types, you will have to recalculate. You can do this again like this:

  • when using fluorescent lamps, their power is calculated as 1/3 of the found figure;
  • when installing LEDs - 1/7.

Approximately the same pattern is reflected in the next photo. You can also navigate using the table.

Don't think that's all. You also need to take into account a bunch of factors - the depth of the aquarium, the transparency of the water, the height of the light source... And each of these parameters can make adjustments to the found figure. Moreover, many aquarists believe that the optimal lighting for an aquarium can only be selected experimentally, since there are not so many “theoretical” calculations and it is simply unrealistic to take into account all the factors. So making aquarium lighting with your own hands is not easy. But we have already found the base - the approximate brightness of the light sources. You can rely on this figure and change it later.

Taking into account the depth of the aquarium

As you know, when passing through water, light significantly loses its brightness. It is generally accepted that every 10 cm takes away 50% of its brightness. That is, if the illumination on the surface is 2000 Lux, at a depth of 50 cm there will already be a little more than 60 Lux. This situation is clearly demonstrated in the following figure. Therefore, the higher the tank, the brighter the lighting should be.

The normal condition of the aquarium will only be if the light reaches its bottom in the required amount. The minimum illumination at the bottom should be 60-90 lm. Knowing the parameters of your container and the calculated brightness of the lighting, you can calculate the approximate amount of light that will reach the bottom. If it is below the specified norm, increase the brightness until it is within the required limits.

Arrangement of lamps for illuminating the aquarium

Most often, lamps for lighting an aquarium are placed on top. This is logical - the sun also shines from above. But the lamps can be located close to the surface of the water, resting on the edges of the jar, or they can be suspended - at a distance of several tens of centimeters from the water surface. The installation method is chosen depending on the amount of heat generated by the lamps. Just remember that hanging lights should be even brighter to compensate for the scattered light.


If there is only one lamp, it is moved to the side largest accumulation plants - to the back wall of the aquarium




If there is a need to hang a lamp, then everyone solves the problem in their own way. Depending on capabilities, ideas, level of skills or imagination. Some people make rods that are attached to the wall or floor, others lower pendants from the ceiling. Some craftsmen make supporting structures based on the edges of the can...

To ensure that the maximum amount of light enters the water, the lamps are screened on top with reflective covers. In the factory version, this is most often a thin sheet of polished of stainless steel, at self-production Foil is often used.

Number of lamps and their placement

Lighting in an aquarium is most often done using linear lamps. This is more convenient during installation, and the illumination is more uniform. There can be one or several tubes. If there is only one light source, you need to position it so that it illuminates all the plants. In this case, the tube is placed moving it away from the far edge of the jar by about 2/5 of its width. Why not in the middle? Because most of the plants are concentrated near the back wall and they require more light. If there are two or more tubes, they are still shifted more towards the back wall of the can - the reasons are still the same.

In any case, the nonlinear shape of the lid, in which reflectors redirect the light, also helps to redistribute the light more evenly. Companies involved in the production of aquarium equipment conduct research on this topic, and if they make their own aquarium lighting, they try to copy their developments. Moreover, homemade products often give better results.

When using lamps classic look, they are placed at equal intervals. Depending on the number of lamps - in one, two or three rows. If there are two or more rows, it is better to place them offset - in a checkerboard pattern. If several lamps are used, when selecting their power, take it with some reserve. After all, it has long been known that one 100 W lamp gives more light than two 50 W lamps.

Types of lamps for light in an aquarium

Selecting lamps for lighting an aquarium is not an easy task. It's not just about power, but also about the spectrum they emit. Selecting the spectrum or temperature of the glow is a complex and individual matter, but we will talk about choosing the type of lamps from the point of view of their technical characteristics.

Incandescent lamps

These lamps have two advantages - low cost and a spectrum as close as possible to that emitted by the midday sun. But these advantages are crossed out by two big disadvantages: high power consumption and a huge amount of heat emitted by the flask.

When using incandescent lamps to light an aquarium, the bills will be large. In addition to the costs of lighting itself, energy will be added to the operation of fans, with the help of which heat is removed. A large amount of heat also imposes restrictions on the materials used to make the lamp. They must be heat resistant. All this was the reason that these lamps were practically abandoned. There may be examples of single use in combined lighting - just to create a “midday” peak of illumination.

Aquarium lighting: fluorescent lamps

These lamps are more economical in terms of energy consumption - they draw 3 times less electricity. They come in two types - with a standard base or in the form of tubes (linear). They also heat up much less, but require special lamps, since special devices are needed to start them. These lamps have a minus - they change the spectrum of emitted light over time. Therefore, they are changed every 6-12 months. Even if they continue to work. The plants simply no longer “like” the light they emit, and they begin to wither.

Tubular fluorescent lamps come in different spectrums of emitted light. The choice here is very wide; you need to select it according to the “population” of the aquarium. They also come in three diameters, but T8 and T5 are usually used to illuminate aquarium plants. Moreover, the more popular one is T8. Although they are quite thick, they are much cheaper than the “fives”. And since you still need to change them at the same time, it’s more rational to buy “eights”.

There are three more technologies by which fluorescent lamps are produced. NO - household class lamps with a low level of luminescence. They can be used in shallow aquariums - with a water column height of no more than 50 cm. The two other classes VHO (Very High Output) and HO (High Output) shine brighter, but are also much more expensive. They can illuminate deeper containers.

Metal halide

This is very bright lamps, which are used when the water column in the aquarium is 60 cm or higher. If you want to have “sunbeams” at the bottom, a play of light and shadow, you need MGL lamps. They look like a tube with clamped edges into which contact “legs” are inserted. They are inserted into special connectors that are attached to the lid of the aquarium. Metal halide lamps can also be supplied with a standard base.

The downside of this lamp is its considerable price and a significant amount of heat that is generated during operation. The price is compensated by the long service life, and the problem of heat removal is solved by hanging the lamp. The height is preferably at least 30 cm above the water level. The brightness of the lamp is high enough that there will still be enough light at the bottom.

LEDs

This type of lamp appeared relatively recently, but is gradually becoming more and more popular. LEDs have very good characteristics. Today they consume the least energy, have a long service life, can emit light of any spectrum and heat up little. They have a special feature - they operate on reduced voltage - 12 V or 24 V. To connect to a regular network, an adapter (converter) is required. This is not very convenient and requires additional costs, but it increases safety, since such voltage is not dangerous to health. For a combination of these reasons, aquarium lighting is increasingly being done using LEDs.

They come in several forms:


What else attracts LEDs is that it is easy to adjust the brightness of the lighting by installing a regular regulator, or by creating a connection diagram so that you can turn them on gradually, quite accurately reproducing the change in illumination during daylight hours.

LEDs still emit heat during operation, but their body heats up. It is easier to remove such heat - mount them on a metal plate, and place a cooler on top (low-power and quiet fans). It is better to take aluminum ribbed plates, which are often called a radiator.

The first method, lighting the aquarium yourself with LEDs, is the simplest, where you can additionally equip a lighting cover with special phytolamps. To do this, a white LED strip is fixed around the perimeter. This will give the optimal spectrum and the most uniform illumination along the upper perimeter of the aquarium. A self-adhesive LED strip filled with plastic is used, where the protective layer is removed and attached around the perimeter of the box.

Such lighting is widely used for decorative purposes, but it cannot be an independent source of lighting for the aquarium. The insulation at the junction of the tape and the cord is made with a special transparent silicone used for aquariums. It will reliably protect the power cord from water. The output wires are marked in red, this is a plus, and the minus is black or blue wire. If the polarity is not correct, the LEDs will not work.

The second method is to assemble full-fledged aquarium LED lighting of sufficient power without generators and complex equipment. At 200-300 l, a power of 120 W is enough for a richly planted aquarium. This amounts to a total of 40 270 lumen spot LEDs at 3W each. The result will be 10,800 lumens of illumination, which will give very bright illumination for this volume. It is important to monitor the balance of the entire ecosystem, and with excess light and the development of green microorganisms, it is necessary to reduce the overall intensity.

The cost of such a design can vary greatly, since in online stores from the Chinese, for example, and from more reputable companies you can find LEDs and power supplies of the same quality. However, prices may vary significantly.

To install the lighting yourself you will need:

  • set of LED lamps,
  • 2-2.5 meters of plastic gutter 100 mm wide,
  • 12 Volt power supply, can be from a computer,
  • soft wire 1.5 mm,
  • preferably 6 computer coolers of 12 volts each,
  • 40 LED connector sockets,
  • cutter for processing 48 mm holes.

Along the length of the aquarium, we cut 2 pieces of the gutter, in the bottom of which we drill holes, about 20 pieces per meter, placing them in a checkerboard pattern. LED bulbs insert into the holes and secure.

All lamps must be connected to power in parallel to a 12 volt power supply. For proper connection, it is better to contact an electrician, since the connection diagram may seem complicated to people who are not experts in connecting lamps to connectors. Computer coolers or fans should be installed when there is a lot of evaporation or heating of the cover for lighting.

For decorative purposes, additional night lighting, such as moonlight, is sometimes provided. To do this, connect a little blue LED strip, which can be installed behind back wall, but so that it is below the bottom of the aquarium. The electric timer will be able to turn it on when the daylight goes out.

Advantages and disadvantages of different aquarium lighting options

Let's determine what types of aquarium lighting exist and describe their features:

  • Illuminating an aquarium using incandescent lamps is a thing of the past. They heat up a lot, disturbing the thermal balance, and provide little light.
  • Illumination using fluorescent lamps solves the problem of light intensity, but does not fully provide the required spectrum of illumination.
  • Aquarium lighting using modern phytolamps fully provides both the intensity and the required spectrum of lighting. However, such lighting is very expensive and not everyone can afford it.
  • LED aquarium lighting - modern way supplying light that is closest to natural light.

Advantages of LED aquarium lighting

Aquarium lighting with LEDs is a relatively new proposal. LEDs have important characteristics that make them leaders among lighting devices today. The use of such lamps has a large number of benefits.

  1. They are very easy to install, due to the fact that the cartridges fit almost all types of bases.
  2. LED lamps are not afraid of water, therefore, the possibility of a short circuit is eliminated. At the same time, even in conditions of high humidity, these lighting devices function without interruption.
  3. LED lamps designed for aquarium lighting are fireproof.
  4. Such lamps do not emit heat during operation, which makes it possible to maintain a comfortable overall temperature of the aquarium, even if the lamps are on throughout the day.
  5. Depending on the length of daylight hours and the availability of natural light, you can change the brightness of the aquarium lighting yourself. In addition, it is possible to illuminate the aquarium at night and watch the life of the fish, admiring the amazing underwater pictures.

Important! The average operating time of one lamp is five years. Consequently, all this time there will be no need to replace components and there will be no need to disturb the inhabitants of the aquarium. In addition, it must be said about energy savings (about 70%). For these reasons, most aquarium owners prefer to light their aquariums using LED lamps. Special LED strips have the same qualities.

Safety and durability

Since LED lamps do not emit ultraviolet and infrared radiation, they are completely safe for absolutely all inhabitants of the aquarium. On the contrary, lighting an aquarium with LEDs has a beneficial effect on the color and health of fish. In addition, due to the spectral composition of the rays, they promote the development of aquarium plants. To ensure that the aquarium is illuminated as best as possible, you can combine different types of LED lamps. They can be installed in any conditions and in any premises.

Aquarium lighting with energy-saving lamps.

The same fluorescent ones, but adapted for use with cheap accessories for incandescent lamps. By default, the “starter” for a lamp is in the electronics of the lamp itself. If you are lucky with the manufacturer and the quality of the electronics, they will last the warranty period. If not, lighting the aquarium with energy-saving lamps will stop functioning precisely because of breakdowns in cheap electronics.

  • Aquarium lighting spectrum. Regarding the spectrum, manufacturers are forced to install control electronics in each light bulb, and accordingly they are trying to save on something else. Most often - on a phosphor.
    Its quality is checked simply - the spectrum is ALWAYS present on the website of a reputable manufacturer. If it is not there, a regular CD will come to the rescue.

    To determine the lighting spectrum of an aquarium, just look at the “rainbow” of light from the lamp being tested reflected from the disk. If the “rainbow” is made up of individual colors, then the phosphor is cheap and is not suitable for lighting an aquarium. If the “rainbow” is continuous, then you (and your home pond) are lucky!

  • Ease of use - similar to incandescent lamps. Just don’t touch the flask with your fingers! But with cheapness (the ratio: lighting for an aquarium - price) not everything is smooth, especially since lamps with a poor spectrum are often offered for significant money (remember the trick with the “rainbow” reflected from the CD?)
  • Availability is excellent! Thanks to fittings from incandescent lamps and aggressive advertising of “economical” lamps.
  • In terms of energy consumption, lighting an aquarium with energy-saving lamps is 2-3 times more economical and profitable than incandescent lamps. But in terms of service life - not always. It is better to prefer expensive products famous manufacturers with a guarantee.

For one liter of water, it is desirable to have approximately half a watt of lamp power. That is, for an aquarium of one hundred liters you will need fifty watts of fluorescent lighting (or a set of two or three energy-saving lamps of similar total power).

Aquarium lighting with fluorescent lamps.

Today, fluorescent aquarium lighting is the unofficial lighting standard for home “oceans”. In any case, the vast majority of purchased aquariums are sold with fluorescent lighting.

This type of aquarium lighting uses an electric discharge in a flask filled with mercury vapor. The result is illumination of the aquarium with ultraviolet light, affecting a layer of a special phosphor substance. Here it is, depending on its composition, and emits “daylight” light with a small admixture of ultraviolet. And if you use special quartz glass for the bulb of a fluorescent lamp, you will get a “tanning” lamp

  • There are two types of “daytime” lamps on the market – the so-called “cold” and “warm”. Products marked D (LD, LDC, etc.) are poorly suited for aquarium lighting, since they have almost no red color in the spectrum. They are more used in industrial “official” premises. But lamps marked B (LB, LTB, etc.) are similar in spectrum to daylight and are well suited for aquarium lighting, both for fish and as aquarium lighting for plants.
  • High-quality fluorescent lamps are more expensive than incandescent lamps – both the fittings and the lamps themselves. It’s better not to be greedy and buy aquarium lighting with a reliable launcher. The fact is that in an attempt to conquer the market, manufacturers have developed inexpensive lamps for lighting an aquarium, which use cheap lamps with built-in “starters”. But miracles don’t happen, and you have to pay twice for “savings” - such lamps don’t last long, and it’s the electronics, “made together” from cheap components, that get damaged first. So, the aquarium lighting will be repaired soon.
  • There is a wide choice - both cheap and expensive solutions.
  • Fluorescent lamps hardly heat up - most of the time electrical energy they process light and ultraviolet radiation.

Such aquarium lighting is on average 2-3 times more economical than incandescent lamps.

Aquarium lighting with halogen lamps.

An improved version of the incandescent lamp. Iodine or bromine is added to the flask, which raises the temperature of the filament and prolongs the life of the lamp:

  • The spectrum of the lamps is also red-shifted, although less than that of conventional incandescent lamps. These lighting devices are adored by photographers for their almost perfect color rendition. This type of aquarium lighting emits more ultraviolet light.
  • Halogen lamps are somewhat more expensive than their predecessors. Ease of use - at the level of incandescent lamps.
  • Accessibility for aquarium lighting is ideal.
  • Halogen lamps “recycle” more energy into light, but still have an overly “hot” disposition and are not ideal as lamps for lighting an aquarium.

Aquarium lighting with incandescent lamps.

The oldest source of electric lighting. Let's look at this type of lighting in more detail:


Proper aquarium lighting

Once lovers are imbued with the beauty of tropical fish. hedgehogs starfish and living corals. then the first problem they have to solve is the problem of correct lighting. After all, both fish and reef inhabitants need light. Moreover, for the latter it is many times more important. In order to choose the right lighting for an aquarium, fluorescent lamps are most often used in combination with actinic and metal halide lamps.

Lighting in an aquarium has its own nuances. How much light do you need in a saltwater aquarium? This is influenced by many factors. The main ones are #8212 the volume of the reservoir, as well as its height. How are the dimensions of the reservoir and the power of the lamps related?

How to choose the right lamps

How to properly make aquarium lighting with your own hands? Quite often, fluorescent lamps are used in home ponds. To ensure the required spectrum, they are supplemented with metal halides, but the latter convert a considerable part of the light radiation into heat. Therefore, they noticeably increase the water temperature and heat the aquarium lid (if it has one or is a built-in part of the aquarium cabinet). For residents underwater world This is not good. Actinics (blue lamps) are also used, which separately add the blue part of the spectrum. Usually, calculating the lighting of an aquarium is quite simple. Take 1-1.5 W of power per liter of water if the reflectors are good, or 2 W per liter if they are weak. You should know: if the lighting is insufficient, plants and corals will slow down their growth.

For example, a brown coating may appear on algae. consisting of microbacteria, and this leads to fish diseases and changes in water quality. Correct lighting will solve this problem if artificial and sunlight are well combined.

What are the best aquarium lamps?

Metal halide lamp with built-in blue lamps

Many sources note that best option– use fluorescent lamps. They shine well and are quite economical. They are connected via electronic ballast, as well as a special device - a choke.

Nowadays, most hobbyists prefer special fluorescent lamps in combination with metal halides. In this case, they are placed on the front wall of the reservoir.

In addition, special fluorescent aquarium lamps of different wattages with warm or daylight white light are also used. Installation is carried out complete with special reflectors. With the right lighting, the fish will demonstrate a variety of all their colors, and the corals will develop excellently.

Fluorescent lamps are economical and provide excellent lighting, last quite a long time. As a disadvantage, it can be noted that they must be connected using a special device #8212 electronic ballast or choke.

Lighting selection

T5 lamps

T5 fluorescent lamps work well with lighting in an aquarium. In this case, special attention should be paid to their main indicators: color and power. The power can vary in the range of 8-56 W, the length is 20-120 cm. It is important to know the following: 0.5 W of power should be per 1 liter (at least) 1 cm in length - approximately 1 W of power corresponds.

In addition, T5 aquarium lamps have such important characteristics as brightness and color range. The correctly selected spectrum will allow corals to grow and develop properly. In general, there are 2 maxima of light absorption. One is located at the red-orange end of the spectrum, while the other is at the violet-blue end of the spectrum. Moreover, the first is one and a half times more effective than the second.

Thus, it is clear that the blue spectrum should be more pronounced. Based on the fact that photosynthesis does not affect fish in any way, they don’t care what kind of light you choose.

From the manufacturers' point of view, the market now offers luminaires from such recognized names as Aqua Medic, Hailea, Reef Octopus, BLV.

Spectrum and types of lamps

metal halide lamps

As mentioned earlier, spectrum is of great importance in lighting a marine aquarium. Typically, high-power fluorescent and metal halide lamps are used, having a light temperature of 10-20 thousand Kelvin. Unfortunately, they emit quite a lot of heat and are poorly suited to small bodies of water without cooling equipment. Since elevated temperatures are not very beneficial to the inhabitants of your underwater world, sometimes it is more rational to purchase fluorescent lighting. In addition, fluorescent light is much more similar to sunlight. It will make the fish look more colorful.

The more of them you can build into the lid of aquarium #8212, the better, because there is no such thing as too much light. If you don't want to use metal halide lights, this will somewhat limit your choice of reef creatures, but for most animals, T5 bulbs are fine.

Spectrum of T5 fluorescent lamps

Please note that the length of daylight hours in a sea body of water should be 10-12 hours. It is also advisable to provide a shading period of 8-10 hours. This is necessary because many sea inhabitants feed only in the dark, so they will simply remain hungry. The easiest way would be to connect the lighting system to a timer, thereby ensuring a timely change of time of day. Remember that luminaires with their ballasts should, if possible, not heat the water.

In addition to the T5 series, T8 lamps are also available for sale. What do these designations mean? T5 and T8 characterize the type of base. The differences lie in the length and power standards. There are two types: economical (HE) and powerful (HO). The latter have increased brightness and short length. HO is often used in aquariums because it is compact and powerful. Another difference between T5 and T8 lamps is the temperature at which the maximum luminous flux.

At the same time, the maximum luminous flux of T5 is obtained at a temperature of +35 Celsius and +25 degrees. #8212 at T8. It is also worth noting that the service life of T5 is longer than that of T8. It is 5 years with a loss of luminous flux of 20%. In T8, after a year, the light flux is halved.

The general conclusion is that T5 LED lamps are more durable, more powerful, and do not lose luminous flux for a long time. T8 – thicker, cheaper and less heated.

Blue light in an aquarium

Pay special attention to illuminating the pond at night, when there is no natural sunlight. It is to solve this issue that blue fluorescent lamps can be used, which make it possible to create the required level of illumination with a certain spectrum. It is very important that the blue color in the spectrum penetrates deep enough into the water. As a result of evolutionary selection, only invertebrates were able to adapt to limited light. that live in reefs.

Spectrum of blue T5 actinic lamps

Blue light is optimal; it does not affect the fluorescent dyes of these animals. Blue, blue and moonlight in an aquarium allow you to create blue fluorescent lamps, also known as actinics. Blue and cyan light can enhance the blue coloration of fish, corals and other invertebrates. Intense radiation in the blue region of the spectrum has a beneficial effect on photosynthesis, as well as on invertebrate animals and deep-sea corals.

Length of daylight

In a reservoir where only fish live, the recommended ratio is 3 W of lamp power per 4.5 liters. If you have herbs, then the lighting can be increased. If you have tropical or subtropical fish, then it is worth making 12 hours of daylight all year round. For fish living far from the equator, it is necessary to lengthen the summer day and make the winter day shorter. To make this procedure easier, purchase a timer that will turn your lights on and off.

Plants and corals under aquarium lighting

The intensity of lighting in a coral aquarium depends on the species you have. Therefore, it is very important to know the lighting needs of plants before you decide to have them. There are many easy-to-care plants and animals that can live in an aquarium even without artificial light. But there are also quite demanding corals that require special lighting, because they need intense fluorescent light to grow successfully. In general, to solve such issues they often order professional service aquariums.

Be especially careful with species growing near the surface of the water, and even in clean tropical waters. In addition, algae that produce red leaves will not like very bright light.

For those hobbyists who keep corals, a powerful light output is required, even not all fluorescent lamps can cope with this. Metal halides will successfully perform this task.

There are also corals that live at medium depths. They don't need bright light. Usually they choose corals that live near the surface of the water in bright tropical sun, because they are colorful and picturesque. In addition, such corals live in symbiosis with green algae, which carry out the process of photosynthesis.

However, as a rule, in home ponds there is almost always a lack of lighting compared to the natural environment, so hobbyists try to provide as much light as possible to approach the level of illumination of an ocean reef.

Night illumination

Night is a time of natural activity for many animals. As a rule, nocturnal fish species begin to hunt when darkness falls. To better observe their life, you will need night lighting of the aquarium. To solve this problem, it is recommended to use low-power blue light lamps. They will illuminate the underwater inner world, perfectly imitating the natural light of the Moon. Such a spectrum will allow your pets to create optimal conditions hunting. In addition, a blue aquarium light will provide an opportunity to stimulate reproduction in some fish that have difficulty reproducing in captivity.

DIY aquarium lighting with LED strip.

Lighting an aquarium with LED strip is one of the most energy-saving and, importantly, safe ways to illuminate an aquarium. Of all kinds LED lighting

For an aquarium, the best option is to illuminate the aquarium with LED strip.

  • The advantages of such lighting:
  • LED strip is energy efficient; aquarium lighting with LED strip is the most economical type of lighting.
  • This type of aquarium lighting is safe. The voltage of the power supply supplying the LED strip for the aquarium is 12 Volts, this voltage is safe not only for people but also for the flora and fauna of your aquarium.
  • Adjusting the luminous flux. You can always increase or decrease the brightness of the lighting, so you can adjust any ice lighting for the aquarium.
  • Can be used as additional lighting. A planted aquarium often requires additional aquarium lighting. An LED strip will make excellent LED lighting for an aquarium with plants with your own hands, both primary and additional.
  • LED lighting of the aquarium in various colors. Although it is recommended to use white LED strips to illuminate an aquarium, this does not change the fact that in nature there are different colors and types of LED strips.
  • Simplified installation. The LED strip is very easy to mount on the aquarium due to the adhesive base of the strip.

The ability to mount an LED strip to illuminate an aquarium underwater, due to its tightness and IP65 protection class.

In total, our lighting for the aquarium cost about 50 dollars, the price of one reel of tape with protection class IP65 is 25 dollars, the power supply is 20 dollars. Our aquarium required 2.2 meters of light strip.

We insulated the place where the LED strip was cut and connected to the power supply using transparent sealant, and glued it to the lid of the aquarium so that there was no contact with the water and the filtration system. As a result, we have an enviable aquarium with a filter and lighting.

We used the rest of the tape stock to illuminate the computer system unit

Many lovers of aquatic life use LED aquarium lighting, assembled with their own hands, because one sunlight various tropical fish are not enough, even if their pond is located on the window. And if it stands against the inner wall, then there is a catastrophic lack of light.

Why does an aquarium need light?

One of the most mesmerizing, impressive decorations modern interior is an aquarium, but it is impossible without lighting. Good led light It’s not that difficult to make an aquarium filter with your own hands.

Proper lighting design of a pond will make it one of the elements of additional lighting for the apartment. Light is a fundamental factor for activating the growth, reproduction and development of various aquatic aquarium plants.

People who love aquariums know that any ecosystem that arises at depth is quite whimsical. It forms its own connections between microscopic organisms, aquatic plants and various living creatures from the tropics.

Aquarium fish are the last and main link of such a small ecosystem, which for normal functioning Need additional light in the aquarium. Without a certain number of photons of light, all greenery will degrade, fade, and will not reproduce by layering and cuttings.

Due to the cessation of the photosynthesis process, plants will not be able to process carbon dioxide and will not receive normal nutrition.

Without this, they will not release oxygen into the water, which is necessary for the life of microorganisms and the respiration of fish through gills.

The entire mini-reservoir should be enriched with this gas and well illuminated by various light sources, because some inhabitants of the home water area (purple plants, for example) cannot absorb the entire spectrum, but are content with only a small part of it.

Remember! It is not recommended to turn on lamps for more than 10 hours a day in summer. In winter, this time can be increased to 12 hours/day. Be sure to turn off the lights at night for 6-8 hours. Pisces also need rest and a certain period of time for deep sleep.

Why is LED lighting better?

Due to the huge diversity of living creatures and greenery in a reservoir, it is necessary to “adjust” and sometimes use not one, but several different light sources to preserve all species, with the help of which you can stretch the length of the day.

Some aquarists use LED spotlights, while others prefer conventional lamps. Still others use halogens or good fluorescent lamps, while others choose LED strips in the aquarium.


In theory, a normal light source:

  1. It must emit rays in many spectral ranges at once, so that all plants (both lower and higher) grow and do not bloom. If you use, for example, ordinary lamps that have only a yellow spectrum, then higher plants may wither, and because of this, the water will quickly bloom.
  2. Do not heat the water. A lamp installed in close proximity to any home water area warms it up, at least a little. Many fish cannot tolerate an increase in the temperature of the surrounding fluid by more than 2°C and may die.

Let's consider all the options and find out which lamps are more profitable to use:

  1. Halogens are a good and economical source of luminous flux. They provide excellent light and do not emit much heat. But they are more expensive than regular ones.
  2. A simple light bulb is a popular type of lighting for a mini-reservoir. But it only produces yellow light, which is unacceptable for higher plants. Such a lamp has a high heat transfer, and if it is located close to the aquarium, living creatures may die due to improper temperature regime. To eliminate heat, you can use ice by throwing it into water in cellophane bags.
  3. Luminescent samples were the most popular among aquarists. They are economical, durable, have a wide spectrum and diffused light. Just a pair of such lamps can fully illuminate a 400 liter pond. The spectrum produced depends on the gas inside them. But they are dangerous due to the presence of mercury vapor in the cylinder.
  4. LED lights for a planted aquarium are the best option. Their low heat transfer and high efficiency are known to everyone. They are environmentally friendly and harmless to any inhabitant of the home depths. Their spectrum is limitless.
  5. LED strip is a little worse than the previous option. Sometimes you have to search for a long time for a suitable assortment. Many tapes have low light output, and if bright ones are not available, you have to increase their quantity.

Pros and cons of LED lamps

Lighting in an aquarium with LED lamps took the first position with the arrival of these lamps and their use in everyday life. And all because of the excellent characteristics, which immediately replaced all former light bulb options.

Their main advantages:

  1. Economical. The ratio of power consumption to high brightness is equal to or higher than other samples.
  2. The cost is average - lower than some types of other types of lamps.
  3. In terms of efficiency and heat transfer, they are second only to sources with luminescent glow, which can remain cold for several days in a row. Over the entire operating cycle of 10 hours/day, they heat up very little and do not affect the infrastructure of the water area.
  4. Strength. SDL - LED lamps for an aquarium with plants - are not afraid of various types of influences. They don’t break, their spiral won’t break (it simply doesn’t exist).
  5. The most expensive options last up to 5 years if used correctly.
  6. The spectrum range is huge and favorable for the flora and fauna of the reservoir. Since such a lamp contains many LEDs, you can install several multi-colored sources. Thus, you can combine all the necessary spectra in one lamp.
  7. Safety. This parameter is explained by the low potential required for SDL operation and high moisture protection, which negates the likelihood of a fire.
  8. Environmentally friendly. No toxic substances are used in the production of SDL, and the absence of ultraviolet radiation and infrared glow has a positive effect on the inhabitants of the depths.

The main disadvantages of SDLs are considered to be the relatively high price, because to connect some SDLs and tapes to a 220 V network, you need to purchase a power supply or dimmer, and this is an additional expense.


You can do without a power supply, but then you need to buy 12-volt SDLs and connect them to the battery. This has its advantages. If there is no current in the network, your pets will be illuminated.

Do the inhabitants of the home pond have enough light?

Homemade LED aquarium lighting is always pleasing to the eye. Fish play in its rays, plants bloom wildly. But all this is in normal lighting, preferably from above in front. Otherwise, everything happens differently, and troubles are possible.

If the LED lights in the aquarium are chosen incorrectly, the plants begin to change, become smaller, and the water gradually blooms and turns green.

Lack of light (incorrect calculation) provokes some types of plants. For example, the growth of green unicellular algae accelerates.

Excess illumination (for example, strong spotlights) leads to another problem: the eco-balance is disrupted, the water becomes cloudy and dirty, and the amount of oxygen in it is insufficient. At the same time, the fish swim almost on the surface and cannot breathe, and the greenery withers.

How do you know if the LED lighting for your aquarium has been chosen correctly? This is evidenced by the internal situation of the reservoir. If after 60–90 days the fish move within the entire volume, the water is clear, the plants do not fade, the lighting is ideal.

Backlight power and its spectral range

You need to know how to choose an LED spotlight based on power or which LED strip to use so that the pond is properly illuminated and its inhabitants are happy.

Experienced aquarists advise calculating lamps based on the requirements - 0.5 W/l. But this is true for the old style lighting.

To determine the number of LEDs in the network, complex conversion formulas and various online calculators are provided.

Calculating SDL is not as complicated as it seems. Aquarists claim that the SDL power should not exceed 1–2 W, but this is not true, because aquariums are different and it is much more difficult to illuminate a large body of water.

And even illumination of the aquarium with LEDs sometimes harms the inhabitants. Bottom-dwelling representatives love shade, and plants grow in the light zone. Fish swim everywhere and know where they are most comfortable at the moment - on the surface or between the roots in the shade.

Usually they use SDL with a total power of 80–100 W per 200 hp. Wealthy people sometimes have mini-reservoirs of 20 thousand liters each. For a large volume, take several dozen strips with 30–40 mini-sources (0.2 W each), because everything needs to be illuminated from top to bottom.

It is not enough to have an aquarium - you need to light it correctly. For beauty, new aquarists add yellow, green and blue spotlights or diode aquarium lamps that are constantly on. This is effective only for “show off”. Such experiments are unnatural for the ecosystem.

If you put such LEDs in an aquarium, then unacceptable spectra will depress the fish, this will affect the process of photosynthesis.

Such a “disco”, for example, made from an LED strip, harms representatives of the depths - it is detrimental to their health.

So what are the best colors to choose? Proper lighting of an aquarium with LED strip has its own criteria. The spectrum range of such illumination, as recommended by all experts in this field, should be blue-violet or reddish-orange. Combining lamps of different types gives excellent results. For example, using LED and fluorescent light sources for uniform illumination, you can create a cozy, environmentally friendly atmosphere for all living creatures and plants.

Where to install lighting fixtures

A home pond should fit organically into the overall design. It can be freely mounted in a sideboard, wall and other cabinet furniture. Moreover, according to the instructions, you need to place the lamps in front from above, and not behind the back wall, as novice aquarists do.

Various homemade and industrial shelves with aquariums in which colorful inhabitants swim look great. The stands and cabinets also look beautiful. The usual lighting in them is in the form of a lid on the pond, which opens when the fish feed.

Remember the following:

  1. When lighting above a mini-pond in a closet, the aquarium must be covered with plywood, glass or other material to prevent anything from getting into the water.
  2. You can significantly reduce electricity consumption if you use a photo relay, timer and thermal relay.

These devices are automatic and convenient for busy people. They are simply necessary for living creatures:

  • the photo relay turns off the light when evening falls outside the window;
  • the thermal relay de-energizes the system when the lamps or water get hot;
  • The timer connects to the lamps (all or part of them) and allows you to turn off the lights after a certain time.

This is important for many fish and plants, especially if you have several mini-aquatic areas. Fish and plants from the tropics need warm water and long-term light, while cold-blooded ones are more flexible and don’t need as much light.

How to make LED lighting

It is advisable to combine SDL with fluorescent universal lamps of the LBU type - their spectrum is the best for reservoirs and their inhabitants. Both sources are mounted in a box, the bottom and walls of which are covered with foil for better reflection of light.

First way

If your fish house has a lid, then LED lights making an aquarium with your own hands is done on it. This the best place for additional light sources. The LED strip is strengthened around the perimeter of your lid from the inside.

Use tape with a self-adhesive base, filled with plastic to prevent water from penetrating.

The protection is removed from the base, and the LEDs are secured under the cover. All this will allow you to evenly illuminate the water column and provide the most optimal spectrum.

LED lighting for an aquarium does not pretend to be independent, but is used as additional, decorative light along with other types of lamps. It is better to insulate the wires (if their connection is made under a cover) with silicone for aquariums.

Second way

Full prefabricated lighting of the aquarium with LED lamps of sufficient power is carried out at a power rate of 120 W per 200–250 liters, if the reservoir is densely populated with vegetation. These are 40 LED 3-watt point light sources of 270 lm each.

The total illumination level will reach 10800 lm, which is enough for the above volume.

The main thing is not to overdo it and carefully monitor the state of the ecosystem. If there is rapid growth of greenery, it is necessary to turn off some of the diodes or reduce their brightness.

The cost of the design may vary, because you can buy power supplies and LEDs in a regular store or order them online from the Chinese. Prices for identical high-quality devices sometimes differ several times.

To assemble your own lighting option you will need:

  • SDL set;
  • plastic 100 mm gutter - 2.5 m;
  • soft wire - up to 3 m;
  • 12-volt power supply (for example, from a computer);
  • 4–6 12-volt computer coolers, for cooling lamps;
  • cutter 48 mm;
  • 40 connectors and sockets for LEDs.

On the gutter we make markings along the length of the aquarium and cut 2 pieces with a hacksaw. We drill 20 holes in their bottoms. We try to complete them in a checkerboard order. We strengthen the lamps in the holes and connect them in parallel.

Please note that if the lamps are 12-volt, we connect them to the power supply; if they are 220-volt, we connect them to the network through a switch.

We connect the coolers through a thermal relay in parallel to the power supply. They will turn on if the temperature of the lamps is high.

If you are unable to do this yourself, contact an electrician or a knowledgeable friend.

The aquarium is one of the most impressive and bright jewelry every interior. Unfortunately, it cannot do without additional lighting. This is due to the fact that there is simply not enough daylight for its inhabitants, even if the aquarium is placed near a window. In addition, a properly designed mini-pond will be an excellent source of additional lighting in the house. We will tell you how to make your own aquarium lighting so that it is ideal for your aquatic pets and fits harmoniously into the overall interior.

Why do you need light?

According to the laws of nature, the water column forms its own ecosystem, which is based on the close relationship between aquatic plants, various microorganisms and its other inhabitants. As for fish, this is the last link in this ecosystem, which also requires an additional light source for normal life. In addition, light plays a huge role in the development, activation of growth and reproduction of aquatic plants. This is due to the process of photosynthesis, during which carbon dioxide, which is located in the water column, the plants process. Thus, the water is enriched with oxygen, which the fish breathe. If there is not enough light, then the plants begin to fade and stop reproducing.

Important! Notice that green and purple aquatic plants in an aquarium they absorb not the entire spectrum, but part of the range.

In order to make a lamp for an aquarium with your own hands, you should take into account the fact that different types of lamps emit different spectral ranges. That is why very often they are used in combination for additional lighting of the aquarium, and not separately.

Important! In the cold season, additional lighting increases the duration of daylight hours. But it is not recommended to illuminate the aquarium for more than 10 hours, so the lights should be turned off at night.

How to determine whether there is enough light for the inhabitants of an aquarium?

The main sign of good aquarium illumination is plants of a rich green color, with various shades of yellow, purple and brown. Pisces, in turn, are active and playful, and their scales will shimmer with all the colors of the rainbow.

Important! Due to the disruption of the eco-balance, which depends on the purity of water and proper lighting, the water begins to bloom and turns cloudy green. Accordingly, the fish do not have enough oxygen, they begin to actively grab air at the surface.

If after installing additional lighting 2-3 months later, the inhabitants of the aquarium feel comfortable, this means that the lighting was installed correctly.

Important! Sometimes, in order to enhance the effect, blue and green diodes are added to the backlight. This is used for decorative purposes only. Unfortunately, it is not recommended to turn on such lighting often, as it negatively affects the photosynthesis of plants and inhibits fish.

How to calculate lighting power?

In order to illuminate an aquarium with your own hands, you should first calculate the lighting power, since the life activity of its inhabitants directly depends on this:

  • The standard is the total power of all LED lamps is about 1 W, but the amount of water should be in the range of 20 liters-2 tons.

Important! To illuminate the aquarium, LEDs with a power of 0.2 W are mainly used.

  • As for a more accurate determination of the number of lamps, there are quite complex calculation formulas. For example, for an aquarium with a volume of 200 liters you will need an LED strip with the number of lights of 30 pieces or individual spot LEDs of about 25-40 pieces and a power of 3 W.
  • In practice, the most correct ratio is 0.5 W per 1 liter of water. But, unfortunately, it is also not accurate, since the higher the walls of the aquarium, the more difficult it is to illuminate the water column at the bottom. In addition, you can visually determine this parameter. Plants should be illuminated evenly and all the way to the bottom.

Important! Please note that the spectral range of lighting from LED lamps is of great importance for the inhabitants of the aquarium. This is due to the fact that they use purple-blue and orange undertones. Therefore, by combining fluorescent lamps and LED lighting, you can get full-fledged lighting that will be comfortable for all residents.

Choosing devices for aquarium lighting

Most often, the following types of lighting devices are used to illuminate indoor mini-ponds.

Halogen lamps

They are quite economical, shine brightly, and at the same time emit a little heat. Such lamps are made on the basis of mercury, so they are used quite rarely for lighting aquariums. But as an alternative to incandescent lamps, halogen lamps would be quite appropriate.

Regular incandescent lamp

It gives a yellow spectrum, which is acceptable for the inhabitants of the reservoir. Unfortunately, this spectrum is not enough for tall aquarium plants. As for the leafy ones, under such lighting they gradually become smaller and pale.

Important! If the incandescent lamp shines too brightly, the water begins to bloom.

Such lighting additionally heats the water and glass, thereby creating discomfort for the fish. Therefore, it is not recommended to use an incandescent lamp as an independent lighting device, but rather to combine it with others, for example, fluorescent ones.

Luminescent

They are quite durable and economical. Due to the fact that the light of such lamps is diffused, the spectrum of illumination also becomes wider. The aquarium needs a standard proportion of 0.5 W/liter, and several additional light bulbs placed along the entire length of the aquarium.

Important! For the Dutch type of aquarium, with lush vegetation, incandescent lamps with a power of 1800 K and 1200 K are chosen.

LED bulbs

This is the best option. This is due to the fact that they are economical and do not heat the water. It's easy to make LED light in an aquarium with your own hands. The dispersion will be more uniform, due to which the lamps do not harm plants or cause discomfort to fish.

Important! Due to the large assortment of different colors, you will have the opportunity to combine and create a variety of design effects.

LED Strip Light

It is mainly used as additional element for lighting an aquarium. Due to the lack of spectral range, the LED strip should be combined with other lighting devices.

How to install lighting for an aquarium?

  • It is best to install the lighting from above and at the front wall of the aquarium.
  • In addition, it looks very organic when home ponds are mounted in cabinet furniture, and the lid for feeding fish is placed on top.
  • Also original solution There will be special bookcases that are made of a profile illuminated from the front.
  • Quite often, special cabinets are used as a stand, where the lighting is made in the form of a lid.

Important! If the lighting is mounted above the aquarium in a cabinet, then it should be covered with glass during installation so that nothing gets into the water and disturbs the fish and other aquatic inhabitants.

To optimize electricity consumption, a special thermal relay is installed on the heating pads, and an electric timer is installed on the lighting, due to which they turn the light on and off without additional human intervention.

Important! When installing aquarium lighting with your own hands, it is very important to take into account the origin of its inhabitants. For example, tropical fish need warm water and long periods of light.

How to make an LED lamp for an aquarium with your own hands?

There are two ways to make your own LED lamp for a home mini-pond.

Method No. 1

This is the simplest option in which you can equip a lighting cover equipped with special light bulbs. To do this, you need to fix the LED strip around the perimeter white. Due to this, you will receive an optimal spectrum and uniform illumination.

Important! For these purposes, it is best to use a self-adhesive LED strip filled with plastic.

Such lighting is often used for decorative purposes. Unfortunately, it cannot be used as an independent source of lighting for an aquarium.

Method No. 2

It consists of assembling full-fledged LED aquarium lighting of sufficient power without connecting additional generators and complex equipment.

Important! For an aquarium with a volume of 200-300 liters, 120 W is considered sufficient power. This involves 40 spot LEDs of 3W each at 270 lumens. As a result, you will get quite bright and complete lighting.

The cost of such a design varies, depending on the quality and price position of the LEDs and power supplies.

To install this lighting yourself, you will need following materials and tools:

  • Set of LED lamps;
  • The gutter is 100 millimeters wide and made of plastic;
  • Power supply 12 Volt;

Important! You can use a computer power supply to make an aquarium light.

  • Soft wire with a diameter of 1.5 millimeters;
  • 6 computer coolers;
  • 40 pieces seats for LEDs;
  • Cutter for processing holes with a diameter of 48 millimeters.

The sequence of actions is as follows:

  1. Cut 2 gutters equal to the length of the aquarium.
  2. Drill holes, staggering them at a frequency of 20 per 1 meter.
  3. Insert LED lamps into the prepared holes and secure them.
  4. Connect all light bulbs to the power supply.

Important! Computer coolers are installed in the presence of large fumes and high heating of the lighting cover.

In order for the inhabitants of the aquarium to delight you every day with their beauty and activity, it is very important to provide them proper care, which includes and competently installed lighting. By putting into practice the advice of our experts, you will be able to correctly calculate the required number of lighting fixtures and their power, and your small home pond will become not only the main highlight of the interior, but also a favorite place for the whole family to gather.

DIY aquarium lighting,

LED spotlights in the aquarium

LET'S CONSIDER ALL QUESTIONS IN ORDER:

- What is mixed lighting, why is it needed?
- Why exactly an LED spotlight?

- Why exactly in the lid?
- Why do you need a T5 lamp?
- Choosing an LED spotlight?
- What do you need to create your own lighting?
- The process of assembling aquarium lighting on your own.
- How much is it?
- Is it worth the bother? What is the effect?

What is mixed lighting, why is it needed?

MIXED LIGHTING- This is a combination of different lighting sources. A good example of such lighting is the ADA Solar I lamp, where Takashi Amano combines a MH-HQI 150W metal halide spotlight with two 36W LL T5 lamps.


In general, if we talk about high-quality aquarium lighting, then in our opinion, a metal halide spotlight (hereinafter referred to as MG) in combination with LL is best option. Such lighting “pierces” even the deepest aquariums; the characteristics of such lighting are as close as possible to natural - sunlight. Well, the visual effect will simply delight you - the sparkling reflections of the waves at the bottom of the aquarium, shadows from plants and fish, natural, rich colors. Why is such mixed lighting needed? It's very simple to recreate the "sun effect" in your aquarium: the effect of sunrise, zenith and sunset.
Agree, the Sun does not shine 24 hours a day; the maximum intensity of sunlight is observed only during the day, at lunchtime. The rest of the time the Sun either rises or sets, the intensity of illumination gradually increases and then decreases.
Approximately the same effect can be achieved with a mixed lamp (lighting), when T5 LLs are turned on first (sunrise), then a spotlight (zenith) is added for 3-4 hours, and then (sunset) only T5 LLs work again.
The advantages of such lighting are clear:
1. Aquarium plants receive the most natural light. A certain rhythm is established.
2. Prevention of algae outbreak. Powerful, prolonged, and even more so incorrect lighting is a direct path to an algae outbreak. You just need to create a peak of lighting activity, and not shine, “burn out” the aquarium 12 hours a day.
3. At the same time, the presence of powerful, directional and high-quality lighting in sufficient quantities is the key to success!

Why LED floodlight?

Why the lid?

The only significant disadvantage of a metal halide lamp is that it gets very hot!!! Alas, such lighting can only be used in open aquariums (without a lid), at a distance of at least 30 cm from the surface of the water, using pendants or a lamp stand.
When deciding what kind of lighting would be in our aquarium, I assumed that the aquarium would be closed (with a lid). Firstly, that’s what my wife wanted =), secondly, I agreed with her that an aquarium with a lid looks at home, somehow more comfortable, plus there are cats “roaming” at home, who watch “Aqua TV” every evening, and that’s all after all, the house is not an exhibition center or an ADA laboratory... metal halide soffits in the house are too much! Really, here everyone decides for himself... my opinion is not a dogma.
So, an analogue of a metal-halogen spotlight is an LED one. Let me immediately note the word “analogue” in quotation marks... there is still a significant difference. Firstly, LED lighting, unlike MG, is discrete. Discreteness(from Latin discretus - divided, discontinuous) - a property opposed to continuity, discontinuity. To explain on your fingers, below is a photo example of what a continuous and discrete spectrum looks like.




Thus, we see that the spectrum of LEDs is not the best. And the point here is not even in the peaks of red and of blue color, namely, that aquarium plants actually absorb the entire visible spectrum during photosynthesis, but it is incomplete in SD.
What are the similarities between MG and DM? Why make such “low-quality” lighting in the first place? The answers to these questions will reveal the advantages of LED spotlights.
1. Like a metal halide spotlight, an LED spotlight has directional lighting. That is, the efficiency of LEDs is much higher than, for example, that of fluorescent lamps, the effective use of which is possible only with reflectors. If we speak in everyday language, then SD and MG spotlights “hit” in one direction, and do not “spray” at all. It is this property that allows MG and LED spotlights to “pierce” the deepest aquariums and water thicknesses of 60 centimeters or more.
2. Unlike MG, the LED floodlight does not emit excessive heat. Checked! On the front side, the LED spotlight does not heat up at all, but the back part heats up, but tolerably (tolerable for the hand and plastic cover). Some aquarists advise installing a cooler on an SD to remove heat, but so far, even now, when it’s +36 outside, I don’t see the need for this. Again, this is not a constant, everyone has their own specifics.
3. LED lighting is by far the most economical lighting. You will save 3, 10 times on electricity.
4. A significant disadvantage of fluorescent lamps is their flickering at a frequency noticeable even to the human eye. In this connection, with prolonged exposure to LL on a person, his eyes get tired very quickly. LED sources are powered DC, so they have no flicker.
5. Others positive points LED: safety (work at low voltage, which is important for aquarium business) and long service life (up to 100,000 hours).

Why do you need a T5 lamp?

From the fact that T5 fluorescent lamps are better than T8, I think they already know a lot, so I will not focus on this here.
I used T5 LL in my case, firstly, to create mixed lighting, and secondly, to fill the discreteness of the LED spectrum.
Namely, the so-called “Full Spectrum” lamp was used.


Fluorescent Lamp for an aquarium, designed to provide intense lighting. The JBL Solar Ultra Color T5 lamp has increased power compared to standard T8 lamps and has a full range of colors.
When using the JBL Solar Ultra Color lamp in an aquarium, you will receive enhanced transmission of the red and blue colors of aquarium fish and other aquarium inhabitants.
Having an increased proportion of red and blue colors in the spectrum, the JBL Solar Ultra Color aquarium lamp stimulates the synthesis of chlorophylls, which in turn accelerates the process of photosynthesis.


Naturally, this lamp was installed with a reflector/reflector. I note that I initially wanted to install 2 such lamps for uniform illumination and good power, but alas, the size of the cover did not allow me to do this.

Selecting an LED spotlight

The selection and purchase of an LED spotlight must be treated with particular scrupulousness. This is a very important and expensive point, without paying due attention to which you can simply throw money away.
Since I am a pioneer in this matter on FanFishka, I had to read a lot of information, review a lot of characteristics of various spotlights and LED panels, collect scant information on forums and communicate with a few experts in the LED business.

And so, what a conclusion was made! For 100-110 l. aquarium, net volume needed:

1. Two LED spotlights. Since they have directional light and one, albeit more powerful, spotlight will not cover the entire area of ​​​​the bottom and the reservoir as a whole.
If the lid allows, you can install three spotlights (of lower power), which will give you more confidence that the spotlights will not burn out quickly. Unfortunately, LED spotlights cannot be repaired. Less powerful spotlights heat up less, which means the risks are reduced. At the same time, the less Watt an SD has, the less its “penetrating” ability and its other characteristics too. In general, everything needs to be calculated and estimated.
2. Everyone knows that LED lighting is much more powerful than rated lighting. That is, it is at least incorrect to measure the power of LEDs in Watts.
So I asked myself the question: how many watts do I need for my aquarium? Believing sellers on the market who say: “Multiply by three and you will get those real Vats” is stupid! In general, I had to rummage around in this matter and find clearer information.
But the truth is quite simple, lighting, in addition to Watt, has a lot of characteristics, including: Lumens is the amount of light emitted/emitted by a light source. A light source with a luminous flux of 1 Lumen, which uniformly illuminates any surface with an area of ​​1 square meter, creates on it (the surface) an illumination of 1 Lux.

Empirically, aquarists have found that for a good herbalist, for a Dutch and Aman aquarium you need 50-70 Lumens per liter of pure volume of water.
The problem was solved and the choice of spotlights became extremely specific - you need two spotlights so that in the sum of their Lumens they give 50-70 Lm/l.
3. And the last two important points when choosing an LED spotlight are still: spectrum and Kelvin.
As it turned out, the spotlights were full of variety: there were warm glows, cold glows, I even came across RGB spotlights (and it took me a long time to figure out what kind of thing this was))). But we only need one spotlight - with a spectrum as close as possible to daylight. This type of LED has the most optimal characteristics.
Kelvin (K) is the color temperature of any light source. It is a measure of our impression of the color of a given light source. For keeping aquarium plants, it is recommended from 6500 to 8000 K.

Note: This article was written in 2014. Since then, a lot of water has flown under the bridge. It's 2017. and now there are no problems at all with LED spotlights and LED strips. Moreover, LED spotlights have become flat and compact. And as practice shows, they can be used perfectly in aquascape, example: . Yes, of course, you can debate and find fault with the PAR of LED spotlights for a long time, nevertheless, this is a budget option that works great.

Note 2: The average Lumen figure for a good herbalist is 50-70 Lm/l. However, I ask you to take into account the individual specifics of your aquarium: the height of the water column, the density of planting, the species characteristics of a particular plant. That is, the above figures are an approximate guideline. If you have a dense, super-scape, then you can easily accelerate to 100 Lm/l and 150 Lm/l.

What do you need to create your own lighting?

How much is it?

Firstly, you will need skillful hands, nothing without them. As well as tools: drill, jigsaw, grinder, other small tools (screwdrivers, wrenches, pliers, etc.). If you don’t have a jigsaw or grinder, don’t despair. You just have to do everything by hand, for example, with a hacksaw or saw.

I “modernized” the aquarium lid TM “Priroda”(plastic, with two built-in T8 LLs, ballast and starters), like this:


Purchased two LED spotlights 30W each, TM “Feron” model LL 730. Characteristics: daylight 6500K, 2850 Lumens (by the way, 2 LEDs*2850Lm=5700Lm/110l.water=51.8lm/l).
Purchased Aquael electronic starter for LL T5. This choice was made in order to minimize the “stuffing” of the aquarium lid, the space under which is already worth its weight in gold. P.S. You can make such a starter yourself.



Purchased previously announced lamp T5 JBL Solar Ultra Color T5, 28 W, 60 cm.+ reflector.


Socket - voltage relay. Necessary for safety and to prevent power surges. In such an outlet, voltage limits are set, after which the equipment is de-energized.


(2 pcs.). Necessary for automatic switching on/off of lighting. Makes life easier and clearly controls the timing of this or that lighting. Electronic timer sockets were purchased for lighting, since, unlike mechanical ones, they do not go astray. For example, when the network is de-energized, they “remember everything” and after the current supply is restored, they work according to a given schedule.


For installing coolers(fans), you will need: 2 computer coolers for 12W and a voltage adapter, respectively 12W. I purchased an adapter with a W switch from 0 to 12 W, it is convenient to reduce or increase the rotation speed of the coolers and, accordingly, the degree of cooling. And also to reduce noise, if necessary. There are ready-made solutions for aquarium coolers; by googling aliexpress and similar resources, you can find a lot of options.





You will also need: silicone sealant, fasteners (bolts, nuts, screws), clamp holders for spotlights (preferably stainless steel to prevent rust), wires (two-core and three-core), needed for connecting spotlights, coolers, plugs for spotlights with grounding.

The process of assembling aquarium lighting.

The process of assembling and installing aquarium lighting with your own hands is different for everyone, since everyone has different covers. I'll describe my process.
1. First, connect the cord and plug to the spotlights. There is a three-wire wire coming from the spotlight (with grounding), so you need to connect the same wire to it. Don't listen to the "smart salespeople" in construction supermarkets. When I bought the wire, I was told: “What are you... /censorship/, ground the spotlights.” In general, trust only yourself and reliable information, and not “woe to the specialists” who, perhaps, only understand cheap but strong drinks.