How to turn a hand router into a stationary one. Homemade milling table for a manual router video

home

Installation

Milling table significantly increases labor productivity and efficiency of working with a hand router. Purchase production model such a table for your home milling machine often unprofitable. It is much more economical to make a table with your own hands. It will not take much time and will require very little financial investment. Any home craftsman can cope with this task if desired.

The question is how to make milling table do it yourself, many home craftsmen ask. This is understandable: equipment on which the milling cutter is fixed motionless and the workpiece moves on a work table specially equipped for this purpose is in many cases much more convenient to use. Often, when working with a hand router, the workpiece is secured to regular table, and all manipulations are carried out by the tool itself, which does not allow maintaining the accuracy of processing.

Using a table for a manual router when processing wood products, you can achieve results that can be obtained with professional milling machines. With the help of such a simple device, a whole list of technological operations is performed efficiently: cutting shaped holes and making various slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges.

You can see the structure of a factory-made milling table in the video below. We will try to do no worse, and in some ways even better and, most importantly, cheaper.

A milling table will give you the opportunity to process not only wooden workpieces, but also products made from chipboard, MDF, plastic, etc. Using such a table, you can make grooves and splines, process elements of tongue-and-groove joints and tongue-and-groove joints, chamfer and create decorative profiles.

A milling table, the production of which does not require large financial expenditures, will allow you to equip your home workshop with a real woodworking machine. It is no coincidence that many manufacturing companies We started manufacturing milling tables and accessories for them, but for such a device you will have to pay a decent amount of money. Homemade table, if made in accordance with the drawings that we will analyze in this article, its functionality is in no way inferior to models produced in production conditions, and will cost much less.

Milling table drawings: option No. 1

Drawings of a milling table with a detailed analysis of the design of the main components and their dimensions.

Dimensions of parts Sectional table Double-layer table cover Cutout in the first layer of the table Marking the cutout of the second layer of the table Gluing both layers Cutting the cutout according to the markings of the second layer Drawing of the rip fence End plate of the stop Dust extraction pipe Safety shield made of plexiglass Comb clamp and locking block

Milling table design

If you wish, you can make a milling table from a regular workbench, but it is better to make special design. This is explained by the fact that a machine with a cutter creates strong vibration during operation, so the table for it must be different high resistance and reliability. It should also be taken into account that the milling device itself is attached to the bottom of the tabletop, so there must be enough free space under it.

To attach the router to the tabletop, a mounting plate is used, which must have high strength and rigidity. To make such a plate, you can use a metal sheet, textolite or durable plywood. The bases of most router models already have threaded holes; these are what are needed to connect such a device to the tabletop and mounting plate. If there are no such holes, you can drill them yourself and tap them, or use special clamps.

Mounting plate should be located on the same level with the tabletop; for this purpose, a selection of appropriate sizes is made in the latter. It is necessary to drill several holes in the plate, some of which are necessary for connecting it to the tabletop using self-tapping screws, and others for attaching it to the base of the router. The screws and self-tapping screws that you will use must have a countersunk head.

To enable your homemade milling machine more convenient, you can place it on the tabletop regular button, as well as a mushroom button, which will make your device safer to use. To improve your convenience home machine You can attach a long metal ruler to the table surface.

Before you start designing milling table for your workshop, you need to determine the place where it will be located, and also decide what type of milling equipment you want to make. So, you can make an aggregate-type machine (the table will be located on the side of the sawing equipment, serving as its extension), a compact desktop machine, or free-standing stationary equipment.

You can opt for compact benchtop equipment for working with wood and other materials if you access it irregularly or often use it outside your workshop. This installation takes up very little space, and if desired, it can be hung on the wall.

If the area of your workshop allows, then it is better to make a stationary milling machine, which is much more convenient to work on than on desktop equipment. To make such a device more mobile, it can be placed on wheels, with which you can easily change its location.

A simple homemade milling table. There are questions about the overall strength, but it’s cheap and cheerful.

A simple milling table can be made very quickly. To make a structure that can easily be placed on a regular desktop, you will need a sheet of chipboard on which the guide element is fixed. Suitable as such a guide (and at the same time a stop) regular board small thickness, which is attached to the tabletop using bolted connections. If necessary, you can attach a second such board in parallel, which will serve as a limiting stop.

It is necessary to make a hole in a sheet of chipboard to accommodate a router, which will be fixed to the tabletop using two clamps. After this, your compact milling table with guide can be considered ready.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

The bed of a homemade milling installation must be highly stable and reliable, since it will bear the main loads. Structurally, it consists of a frame with supports on which the tabletop is fixed. As a material for the manufacture of the frame, frames can be connected by welding metal profiles, chipboard, MDF, wood. It is advisable to first prepare simple drawing. It is necessary to indicate on it all structural elements and their dimensions, depending on the dimensions of the parts that are planned to be processed on such milling equipment.

The lower part of the bed from the front side must be deepened by 100–200 mm so that nothing interferes with the feet of the milling machine operator. If you are going to process linings for doors and the ends of facades for them on your homemade machine, then the dimensions of the frame can be as follows: 900x500x1500 (height, depth, width).

One of significant characteristics The bed for a homemade milling machine is its height, on which the ease of working on such equipment depends. According to ergonomic requirements, the most suitable height for equipment used while standing is 850–900 mm. It is advisable to make the lower parts of the frame supports adjustable. This will make it possible not only to compensate for uneven floors, but also, if necessary, to change the height of the milling table.

You can make an inexpensive but very reliable working surface for a homemade milling device from the tabletop of an old kitchen table. Such countertops are usually made of chipboard sheets 26 or 36 mm thick, coated with wear-resistant plastic. Their surface ensures good sliding of the workpiece, and the chipboard base perfectly dampens vibrations that occur during operation of the equipment. If you make a desktop for a machine with your own hands, then MDF and chipboard (LDSP) boards with a thickness of 16 mm or more are suitable for these purposes.

Milling table drawings: option No. 2

Detailed drawings of a milling table with additional retractable drawers, which can be made from timber and plywood (or MDF). A list of parts with dimensions and recommended materials of manufacture is presented in the table.

Table of table parts and their sizes Frame Upper corner of the frame bottom corner frame Guide for sliding drawers Guide layout diagram Table top Stop drawing Large drawer Small Drawer Front of Small Drawer Table Side Panels

How to make a mounting plate

Since the tabletop of a homemade milling machine is quite thick, the mounting plate for attaching the router must have a minimum thickness. This will allow you to make maximum use of the reach cutting tool. It is clear that such a plate, with a minimum thickness, should have high strength and rigidity.

The plate can be made of metal or from a material that is not inferior to it in strength - textolite. The thickness of the textolite sheet should be in the range of 4–8 mm. According to a previously prepared drawing, a rectangular part is cut out of such a sheet, in the center of which a hole is made. The dimensions of the latter correspond to the diameter of the hole in the milling cutter sole.

The connection of the plate with the base of the router and the table itself, as mentioned above, is ensured by the holes made in it and the corresponding threaded holes in the base of the router. Holes for fixing the plate to the table surface are made in its four corners.

The dimensions and location of the holes for connecting the plate to the router must fully correspond to the holes located on the tool base. In order not to make a mistake when manufacturing a plate, you must first prepare a drawing of it, on which you must indicate the overall dimensions of this part, the diameters and the location of all holes on it. If desired, you can fix it on the table surface using clamp brackets.

A video with a detailed story about the construction of a milling table, the functionality and convenience of which are very high, but the complexity of manufacturing is also very serious. For most craftsmen, such a table will be unnecessarily complex, but perhaps someone will learn useful ideas when creating your own equipment.

Milling table assembly

The milling table begins to be assembled by attaching the tabletop to the finished bed. The mounting plate is applied to the place on the tabletop where it should be placed according to the drawing, and its outline is traced with a pencil. This is necessary in order to select a recess for the plate along the marked contour, for which a manual milling cutter with a tool with a diameter of 6–10 mm is used. The size of this recess should be such that the plate fits into it at the same level as the surface of the tabletop.

It will not be possible to make a recess with right angles using a round cutter, so the corners on the plate itself must also be rounded using a file. After fixing it in the tabletop, it is necessary to make a hole in the mounting plate with dimensions corresponding to the diameter of the router base. It is done using a straight cutter, the thickness of which should be greater than that of the tabletop itself.

When the requirements for equipment are small and there is no desire to mess with homemade products, you can buy something similar to what is shown in the photo below.

To perform such an operation you do not need a drawing, since it does not require high precision. WITH reverse side table tops, you also need to select a certain amount of material, since the dust collector casing and other devices will need to be placed at the bottom of the table. To quickly perform all the operations described above, you can rely on the drawings or photos posted in this article.

The final stage of assembling a homemade milling table is connecting all of it structural elements. First, the router is started from the bottom of the tabletop, its base is screwed to the mounting plate. Then the plate itself is attached to the upper surface of the tabletop using self-tapping screws with countersunk heads, which must be completely recessed into the prepared holes. Only after performing these operations is the tabletop itself securely fixed to the frame.

Milling table drawings: option No. 3

A compact tabletop milling table and a detailed analysis of its creation in the photo below.

Computer model Appearance assembled Rear view Front view The cutter is raised, the shutters are moved apart The cutter is lowered, the shutters are moved Hand-held router Hose from a vacuum cleaner for removing dust and chips Attaching the router and removing chips Adjusting the lift of the cutter The lifting of the cutter is carried out by rotating the screw Adjusting the lift of the cutter Adjusting the reach of the cutter Plexiglas platform before installation router The glass is precisely fitted to the tabletop The router is screwed to the support platform

Making the top clamp

To do homemade machine safer to use and to ensure the convenience of processing large workpieces on it, it is possible to equip such equipment top clamp. To create this device, made on the basis of a roller, it is necessary to prepare a drawing.

A ball bearing of a suitable size is often used as a roller for the pressing device. Such a roller is mounted on a holding device that allows it to be fixed at any distance from the tabletop. With the help of this simple universal device, the workpiece of any thickness will be securely fixed when moving along the surface of the work table.

In the video below, a man shows his homemade milling table, which he assembled right on the balcony of his own house.

Drive for a homemade milling machine

In order for a homemade milling machine to be highly productive and functional, it is necessary to equip it with an electric drive of sufficient power. If you plan to use your machine to process wood parts with shallow recesses, a 500 W electric motor will be sufficient for it. However, equipment with a low-power drive will often shut down, which will negate any savings from purchasing a weak electric motor.

The optimal choice for such machines are electric motors, the power of which starts from 1100 W. Such an electric motor with a power varying between 1–2 kW will allow you to use your homemade device like a real milling machine for processing wood products. In addition, you can use any type of cutter on this machine. To equip the machine drive, you can use electric motors that are installed on stationary equipment (for example, on drilling machines), as well as on hand tools (drills, grinders, hand routers).

You should pay attention not only to the power, but also to the speed of the electric motor. The higher this indicator, the best quality will result in res. Electric motors, as you know, can be powered from an electrical network with a voltage of 220 and 380 V. There will be no problems connecting the former, but three-phase asynchronous motors will have to be powered using a special star-delta circuit. Connecting according to this scheme will make it possible to use the electric motor at its maximum power and provide it with a smooth start. And if you directly connect such an electric motor to a 220 V network, you will lose 30–50% of its power.

Milling table drawings: option No. 4

Analysis of another design of a self-made milling table, supplemented by a video from the author.

The tabletop is folded down The elevator is organized using a jack Tabletop, top view Movable carriage-support Parallel stop with wings Box for connecting a vacuum cleaner (dust and chip removal) Steel plate for attaching the router Attaching the router sole to the plate Operating principle of the elevator

Safety when working on a homemade milling table

When making a homemade milling machine, you should ensure the safety of working on it. First of all, it is necessary to equip the working tool itself with a protective screen. How such screens are constructed is illustrated by photographs and drawings of professional equipment. Required element Your homemade equipment should have an emergency stop button, the so-called mushroom. It should be placed in an easily accessible place, and the start button should be secured in a place where it will not be accidentally pressed.

Make sure that the processing area is well lit, as this is the most dangerous place of any equipment. If during work you need to frequently change the offset of the cutter, it is worth making a manual or automatic device for raising and lowering the tool (elevator). Such a lift will allow you to use your homemade milling equipment more efficiently and make working on it comfortable and safe. Various designs of such elevators can also be found on the Internet.

If desired and necessary, you can constantly upgrade your homemade equipment and turn it over time into a full-fledged coordinate machine with a rotary work table.

Welcome to our page "Milling machines photo review"!

In this photo gallery we have collected and decided to show the most different ideas and milling machine implementation options, from simple tabletop machines to full-fledged multifunctional solutions.
* This photo review was created for informational purposes and is not a product. You can print this page yourself and for free.

The information in the review is structured, there are many diagrams and photographs with explanations.If you have your own interesting photos, ideas, suggestions, then you can send them for inclusion in this review (indicating your information as the author) via or email: . You can write your comments in the reviews on this page.

The primary purpose of milling equipment is profile and flat processing of wood, composite materials (MDF, chipboard and others), artificial stone, polymers. Various types are used as an executive instrument.

Using a milling machine, a whole list of technological operations is performed: cutting shaped holes, slots and grooves in the workpiece, manufacturing connecting elements, processing and profiling edges and ends.
That is, a milling machine helps to quickly make products with beautiful and complex shapes,be it a figured tray or a box:

Or make a complex carved interior element:

Thanks to the variety of cutters, the machine turns into a universal tool for woodworking. In fact, you can use it to perform the entire processing cycle: cutting, shaping, and treating the surface until it is ready for coating with protective and decorative agents (varnishes, paints, oils).

1 . Wood milling machine.

Using a milling machine, you can successfully perform various technological operations such as:

straight edge profiling;

milling of shaped profiles;

creating curly ends according to a template;

creation of tenons and grooves of various configurations (such as "

dovetail

", T-shaped, V-shaped, microspikes and others); ;

cutting blanks and cutting them into pieces of the required length;

leveling the surface of the workpiece being processed (for example, a slab - a table top);

wood carving and engraving, for which they are actively used and

making grooves of both straight and spiral types on the surface of products that have the shape of bodies of rotation (balusters, etc.).

This machine is equipped with a carriage, a powerful 7.5-kilowatt motor and can work with tools with a diameter of up to 300 mm, which makes it extremely versatile.

1. Bed - The frame of the milling table is its support, and the support must first of all be stable.

2. Engine (milling cutter) and options for its installation

Types of motors or milling machines

There are two types of drives used in milling machines:

Directly permanently installed engines (or trimmers). :

For example, the engine
Or hand cutters
For example, as in this photo, a manual router is used Functionally, the working surface must first be rigid - always maintain flatness and not sag. And secondly, ensure good sliding of the workpiece over the surface without damaging it (do not scratch). Therefore, the working surface of a milling machine can be made of cast iron, steel, or aluminum.

For home workshops and mobile tables:

As a rule, countertops made of laminated chipboard, laminated MDF or plywood are used.
Options for installing and mounting the router in

work surface

Option 1. Stationary version with fastening to a removable plate for convenient dismantling of the router. :

A solid aluminum plate can be used, as in the original Festool CMS base: as well as in homemade Or compact aluminum /

For this option use different designs

elevator

These tables are compact in size, light weight and can be installed on any work surface.
For example: American .
Has a steel base, a table top made of

Or a steel base (as in milling machines) ):

With folded legs, the festul table turns into desktop version:

, and tires, ,.
For example, based on Kreg components:

Examples where a guide profile (combined rail) is used and clamping

You can also use the side surfaces of the table to attach them to outside tools or accessories necessary for work.

Admirers of the INKRA brand are also trying to improve beneficial features table.

The stationary table can simply be a router table like the ones shown above.
But it can also be multifunctional, universal, combined with a workbench, editing table, stationary saw, etc.

INCRA and KREG accessories are actively used in the design of tables.
Eg:

The large working surface of such a universal table, on the one hand, expands possibilities, and on the other hand, saves both space and resources.

:

Tabletop milling table:

Milling table with rotating tabletop:

Homemade elevator:

Another simpler option:

Side support:

Below is a typical sketch of a milling table with a large number of useful drawers.
All dimensions are in inches (1 inch = 2.54 cm).
Table top:

Parallel stop:

Table stand:

and its frame:

We hope our photo review will be useful to you.
Agree, there are an incredible number of options for implementing a Milling Machine! There are as many solutions as there are Masters.

We work with pleasure!
Team "Arsenal Masters RU"

Look
Look in the catalog and

In a private household, a milling machine is always useful. The equipment is indispensable in the manufacture of various wooden products- from window frames to various small crafts. The milling machine consists of a support table and the router itself. If the owner already has a manual router, then you can make a router table with your own hands.

The table is the main base of the machine. Mills are its working parts. With the help of these parts, many operations are performed when processing wood blanks. On a machine, longitudinal grooves, channels, vertical recesses, oval bevels and much more are made in wood. A table is necessary for precise placement of the cutter - both horizontally and vertically.

Milling table design

The machine desktop must meet the following requirements:

The standard working surface height ranges from 800 to 900 mm. The height of the table can be different - at the request of the owner of the workshop.
The surface of the table should ensure unhindered sliding of the wooden workpiece.
The milling cutter must be equipped with an elevator that will easily move the cutter vertically.
Chip and dust suction must be installed in the working area.
The mounting plate must provide reliable fastening milling cutter. The thickness of the plate should allow the cutting element to extend upward as much as possible.
The clamping parts must be such that the worker’s hands cannot accidentally get under the cutter.
The machine bed must be stable, and at the same time allow the machine to be easily moved to the desired location.

Manufacturing of bed and table top

In a home workshop, inexpensive auxiliary materials are often used to make the supporting part of the machine. To do this, take pieces of MDF, construction plywood, a metal corner, hardware (bolts, screws, washers and nuts) and so on.

bed

The supporting structure for the machine is made from wooden beam or welded metal profile. Some craftsmen adapt it to the bed old table or workbench. The most important thing in the design of the frame is stability. During operation of the milling cutter, various vibration loads may occur.

If old furniture is loose, it is worth installing additional fasteners. To do this, use a metal corner, which is attached to questionable parts of the structure through drilled holes with screws.

Most reliable design there will be a frame made of steel angle 40x40 mm. To do this, you need a welding machine and experience in handling it.

Tabletop

The organization of the desktop can be “seen” in videos about the operation of milling machines published on the Internet. When manufacturing a tabletop, it is necessary to follow the requirements that ensure easy movement of the wooden workpiece and the cutting part of the cutter, as well as reliable fixation of the workpiece relative to the cutter.

DIY machine assembly option

An aluminum T-shaped profile is installed on both side ends of the table for fastening and free movement of a parallel stop in the form of a bar. The plank on the sides is equipped with aluminum fasteners that fit into the grooves of the side profiles.

A rectangular cutout is made in the plank for the exit of the cutter. A guide profile is attached to the part, along which the vertical and angular clamps move. Clamps fix the passage of the wooden workpiece through the milling zone.

A parallel groove is cut in the tabletop to move the miter gauge slider. On one of the supports under the tabletop there are switches with an emergency stop button for the router.

The work platform is often made from MDF and construction plywood. The surface of such material wears out quickly. A more reliable tabletop is made of textolite. The textolite surface has high wear resistance and a low coefficient of friction.

The ideal option for a tabletop would be a steel sheet or a plane made of aluminum alloy. Since the platform must have technological grooves and holes, making such a part with your own hands will be quite difficult, and sometimes impossible. A solution can be found in using parts of old equipment.

Router plate

An opening is cut out in the center of the tabletop to install the work plate. It is better to make the plate from the same PCB. Made in the stove round hole. Round inserts are made under the hole. By combining inserts, select the through hole in diameter for the desired cutter.

The ring inserts, like the plate itself, must be flush with the entire surface of the work table. The rings ensure that the cutter fits tightly into work area.

Fraser

The power plant functions like an ordinary drill. The milling chuck clamps the cutter axis and imparts rotational movement to it. The unit is attached from below to the working plate. When designing a table, it is necessary to take into account the preservation of space for placing the device under the tabletop.

A compact electric motor is used as a milling cutter. Do homemade power tool within the power to an experienced master. In some cases they use electric drill. To get rid of this problem, purchase a ready-made manual router. The retail chain offers customers a wide range of hand power tools of such a type.

Manual frezer different manufacturers has approximately the same set of options and overall dimensions. The tool is mainly intended for processing wooden workpieces.

The milling machine allows the worker to control the processing process with two hands, and when working with hand tools, hands are busy holding the unit itself. It is advantageous to place a manual milling cutter in a homemade machine design.

Mounting plate

The polymer sole of the router is removed and a mounting plate is cut along its contour. The mounting plate is made of metal sheet, no more than 6 mm thick. Mounting holes are drilled in the working area along the screws securing the router through the mounting plate.

The holes are made from the side of the working surface with a countersunk so that the screw heads do not protrude above the plane of the table.

Elevator

An elevator is a device for moving something vertically. IN in this case this applies to the milling unit. The manual router is equipped with a lift. The problem of installing an elevator becomes relevant when home-made devices are used as a power plant.

You can purchase a ready-made factory-made elevator. Many options for making homemade lifting devices are published on the Internet. The main task of the lift is to accurately fix the cutter vertically. The protrusion of the conical cutting surface of the cutter determines the depth and width of the wood sample in the workpiece.

One of the most popular options for a homemade elevator is to move the router on a vertical threaded metal rod.

Diagram of a homemade router lift

A shelf is installed under the table into which a rod with a flange nut is inserted. A flywheel is installed higher on the rod. By rotating it, you achieve the desired height of the cutter above the surface of the work table.

Rotary milling table

The rotary model of the machine is complex design, ensuring the inclination of the wooden workpiece in relation to the cutter. Thanks to this feature of the machine, they produce wooden blanks complex shape. It is almost impossible to assemble such tables at home.

Safety when working on a homemade machine

For safe work milling machine, you should follow several safety rules:

The metal frame must be grounded.
The machine is installed in a dry, ventilated area.
If the machine is made entirely of wood, then the milling cutter body itself is grounded.

Conclusion

A DIY milling table will save cash owner of the workshop. Homemade design takes into account all the individual needs of the machine owner, which compares favorably with ready-made options.

A milling table will make your work easier and help increase the accuracy of workpiece processing. You can buy a ready-made one, or you can make a milling table for a manual router with your own hands, using woodworking skills. We have prepared quite detailed information for you step by step instructions for making a table.

The essence of all designs of a horizontal milling table is the same, the idea is clear - you need to think it over for yourself and implement it, taking into account your capabilities. And in the end, you will get a machine that allows you to process workpieces much more accurately and perform operations that previously seemed difficult for a manual milling cutter.

Decide on the size of the working surface, based on the dimensions of the workpieces being processed and the free space in the workshop. Start small - build a simple countertop, incorporating upgradeability into the design. Work on it and little by little bring it to mind.

Make a table top

The simplest table for a router is a separate work plate, placed on a carpentry trestle or between the pedestals. The device costs pennies and is made in a few hours, but will allow you to perform a significant proportion of the same operations as multifunctional machine. All you need is MDF or birch plywood 19-25 mm thick. Better fit a plastic-coated panel that provides less frictional resistance, and a plate laminated on both sides will not warp during use.

Set the exact right angle of cut on the circular saw, cut the parts according to size and sand the ends.

Cutting diagram: 1 - main plate; 2 — support base; 3 — front wall of the stop; 4 — gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 — drawer (2 pcs.); 6 — side bar; 7 — connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Advice. Measure the thickness before cutting sheet material, often different from the standard. Amend the drawings to eliminate problems when assembling the structure.

Remove the plastic cover from the router base.

Draw a line in the middle of the slab and place a mark 235 mm from the edge.

Place the pad so that later the main router controls are closer to the edge of the table. Visually align the center of the cover with the marked point and mark the locations for drilling holes for the mounting screws.

Determine the center location for the sole with equally spaced screws.

For a base with asymmetrically placed screws, measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer circumference to the cut of the sole.

Draw a mark with a pencil in the middle of the beveled side, calculate the distance from it to the center:

S = D / 2 - (D - H)

Position the cut perpendicular to the midline and mark the center of the sole.

Mark the locations of the mounting screws.

Drill holes for mounting and for the cutter, countersink the recesses. Mark semicircular cutouts in the base and front wall of the stop.

Cut out the bends with an electric jig saw. Make auxiliary frequent cuts perpendicular to the edge of the part, slightly short of the marking line. Then move the file a little closer to the contour line - pieces will fall out without interfering with the movement of the blade. Sand the cutout with sandpaper wrapped around the pipe.

Attach the connecting strips to the bottom of the tabletop.

Glue all the pieces together and secure them with additional screws. Select screws that are longer than the standard ones by the thickness of the plywood and install the router from the bottom of the slab.

1 — side strip for fastening with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 — countersunk guide holes; 4 — front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

Fasten the table to the trestles with clamps, secure the position of the stop with clamps and get to work.

Make a solid base

The worktop can be installed on a frame of low height, sufficient to accommodate the router. The portable table is stored on a rack, and for work it is fixed on a workbench. If you often mill and have free space in the workshop, add support pedestals to the tabletop and get a full-fledged machine.

Cut the cabinet elements according to the dimensions given for the 820 mm high table, or change them so that the table top is level with other equipment.

Frame details: 1 - outer side panel; 2 — inner panel; 3 - rear panel; 4 - base

Place the tabletop with the back side facing up. Install the side panels sequentially and screw them with screws, pre-drilling the guide holes. Secure the base, place the frame front side down, align the right corners and install the two back panels.

Finally, attach the wheel supports to the bottom of the body using roofing screws. Place the wheel mounting pads no closer than 20 mm from the edges.

1 — side stand; 2 — wheel support; 3 - bottom; 4 — internal stand; 5 - rear panel

Use the free space in cabinets to solve the problem of storing tools and consumables.

Embed the mounting plate

Get a longer cutter reach by placing the tool on a 4-6 mm thick plate made of duralumin, getinax or monolithic polycarbonate.

Cut a square with a side of 300 mm from the sheet and place it on the workbench. Glue the plastic sole of the router on top with double-sided tape, placing it in the middle face up. Using a drill of the same diameter as the mounting screws, drill holes in the plate, using the plastic trim as a template. Remove the sole, use a countersink or a large drill to make indentations for the caps.

Screw the plate to the disconnected router, insert an 8 mm drill into the collet. Lower the tool body until the drill touches the surface and rotate the chuck, marking the center. Unscrew the plate and use a hole saw to make a hole at the mark.

Place the plate on the tabletop and trace the outline. Draw and cut the cutout by inserting the jigsaw blade through drilled hole. Straighten the ends with a file and sand with sandpaper.

Secure thin boards around the marked outline with clamps.

Clamp the copy cutter with the bearing in the collet, set the milling depth according to the thickness of the mounting plate. Carry out the milling in several passes, then add 0.5 mm with the micrometer adjustment of the router and make the final pass.

Drill through holes under the screws and expand them from the back of the tabletop with an 11 mm drill bit for self-locking nuts. Clean the surfaces and install the nuts with epoxy glue, aligning with the screws.

Fit the mounting plate to the cutout, place it in place, drill the mounting holes and countersink from the front side. Attach the part to the router base, insert the tool into the tabletop and tighten the screws. Check that the plate is flush with the plane of the tabletop; if necessary, compensate for errors with washers.

Improve your emphasis

For faster and more convenient machine setup, upgrade the parallel side fence and add a rotary fence to help machine the ends of narrow parts. The latter can be taken from a stationary circular saw. Cut aluminum T-profile guides into the surface of the slab. To make cutouts in the tabletop, use a router or circular saw with groove disc.

Lightly round the top corners of the grooves with sandpaper. Cut the profile to size, drill holes according to the diameter of the screws, and countersink them. Place the parts in the grooves, make thin holes and tighten the countersunk screws.

Drill 7mm holes in the base of the stop, select hex bolts and plastic handwheels with nuts.

Install a guide profile in the front stop bar to secure clamps, auxiliary pads and protective devices.

Cut a cover from plywood with a hole in the center, secure it to the gussets located near the cutout of the longitudinal stop. Connect the adapter fitting and connect the vacuum cleaner when working on the router table.

Add a safety shield made from plywood scraps and a strip of plexiglass to the stop.

To make oblong cuts, drill 7mm holes at the indicated points, connect them tangents and make cuts with a jigsaw.

Make homemade clamps and clamps necessary for milling small elements.

The comb clamp can be made from maple wood, choosing a section with a straight grain pattern. Make the gaps between the ridges on a circular saw:

Set the cutting height to 50 mm.
Set the cutting width to 2 mm.
Make a cut.
Pull the workpiece back with a hand pusher.
Turn the board 180° and saw through the other side.
Move the stop by 5 mm, repeat the operations.
Move the stop back again and make cuts throughout the entire workpiece.

Secure the clamps to the guide using bolts and wing nuts.

1 - stopper; 2 — comb clamp; 3 — protective shield; 4 - aluminum guide; 5 - pipe for vacuum cleaner

Sand the surfaces of the parts, especially in areas where the workpieces will pass during the milling process. Clean the machine from dust and coat it with oil.

1 — drawer for cutters; 2 - trapezoidal groove for stop

Let's summarize the project

Materials needed:

Plywood 19x1525x1525 mm - 2 sheets.
Plastic 4x30x30 mm.
Several dozen screws.
Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.
Wood glue and epoxy.
M6 bolts with nuts.

The ability to take your time and think through each step, to accurately mark and cut out blanks, or the desire to learn this came in handy. The result is a high-quality milling table for little money. In the future, it is worth considering equipping the machine with a switch and a mechanism for adjusting the milling height.

For people involved in carpentry activities, a router table is an indispensable assistant. It will help improve the quality of work performed and their efficiency.

The industry offers such tables in a factory-made version, but their price is not suitable for everyone. We suggest considering a do-it-yourself milling table without expensive components.

Definition of a milling table, its design

A device that can be used to: grooves in the workpiece, grooves, make tenon joints, process the edges of products, called a milling table. It is inconvenient to use a router separately; the master will have to concentrate on the workpiece and at the same time on processing. A milling table, assembled with your own hands, facilitates the work process; it can be mounted on a workbench or a special design can be made for it.

Important! When carrying out work on the manufacture of a specialized table, you must remember that the router is installed from below, and free space must be allocated for it. The stationary part of any table is the frame; it is a strong frame with a table top.

Material for the frame milling table can be:

Wooden beam.
Metal squares.
Plates: MDF, chipboard.

The requirement for the frame is to create stability for the tabletop and rigidity of the structure. When you make a milling table with your own hands, the overall parameters of the frame are determined from the materials that require processing.

How to make a bed for a milling machine

Despite the simplicity of making a frame for a tabletop, a homemade milling machine should proper operation Meet requirements:

The table design includes mounting plate, it is needed to mount the router.

How to make a mounting plate correctly

Place the mounting plate at the location where the router sole is attached. For its manufacture, a material is selected that meets the following criteria:

Strength.
Thickness - the thinner the better.

Recommended by experts for self-made milling machine mounting plate use sheet metal, you can use fiberglass or textolite. dimensions rectangular shape, thickness within from 4 millimeters to 8 millimeters. It is necessary to make a hole in the center of the plate, the diameter of which matches the hole on the base of the hand router.

The router is equipped with a plastic pad that is attached to threaded holes on the base; these holes are used to attach it to the mounting plate. If there are no such holes, they must be made in the sole of the router. Another method of attaching the router is proposed, using metal spring brackets. Mounting plate attaches to the tabletop at the corners.

DIY assembly instructions for a milling table

To assemble the clamping device, rollers or a ball bearing are used required diameter. It is mounted in a holding device, which is rigidly fixed at the required distance from the plane of the tabletop.

This device ensures that the dimensional workpiece is tightly pressed against the plane of the tabletop as it passes under the roller. This simple addition increases the accuracy of the work performed and improves labor safety.

You can assemble a functional milling table with your own hands when the master has information about the electric drive that will be used in the work. Let's consider the power parameter to select electric drive:

Important! Experts recommend that before assembling a milling machine, determine the power of the milling machine, it should not be less than 2 kW. This power allows the master to work with any wood. It is recommended to choose milling cutter models with variable speed control. The rotation speed of the router is very important for obtaining an even cut on the workpiece. If this parameter is high, the cut will be clean.

Safe use of the router table

When the milling table is assembled and installed electric drive do not rush to immediately check its operation, make sure that the work performed is correct. What experts recommend doing for safe work on the milling table:

It is advisable to install a protective screen on the countertop; it can be of your own design or an industrial design.
Be sure to check the presence of an emergency stop button for electrical equipment; it must be in the shape of a “mushroom” and located in the area where the technician is located so that it can be pressed with the body.
Equip the work area with light illumination.
When the router table is used to frequently change cutters for work, it is recommended to equip it with an automatic cutter lifting device.

Equipped with a homemade milling table no restrictions, there is only one requirement for them: increasing the safety and efficiency of the work performed.

Sections