How to make the roof of a house correctly: design and construction technology. How to build a roof with your own hands - step-by-step instructions How to make a light roof

home

Installation

Many owners of suburban plots prefer to build a house themselves. The final stage of building construction is the construction of the roof. Having certain skills, you can reduce the labor costs of hired workers and do the work yourself. Many people do not know how to make a roof - in such cases it is better to use the help of qualified workers.

Types of roofs being built

First of all, you need to determine the type of roof, prepare the necessary tools and materials. Roofing construction is one of the important stages building a house.

To make a roof, you will need to choose its type wisely. The simplest designs that you can make yourself include gable roofs with straight frames.

Covering the roof with one slope will save material. If you make such a roof frame with your own hands, the labor intensity of the work will be less, and the installation speed, on the contrary, will be higher. But this method has several disadvantages. The first of them is not the most attractive: there is no possibility to equip an attic or attic. In this case, the roof space is too low.

Very often a gable roof is installed on a private house. with my own hands. It is easy to make and allows you to get more space. Compared to four slopes, it has less complexity and weight. Also in this case it is required less material. The roof of a house differs significantly from other types. In this case, you need to make triangular gables at the ends of the building.

Before you build your own four-beam roof, you'll have to do some serious preparation. This design has more elements compared to previous roofs. Besides, in the attic there is no way to make full windows, since the design is devoid of pediments. Installing the roof with your own hands in this case involves installing attic windows and dormer windows. They are designed for lighting and evacuation.

An excellent option would be combined design. It can combine characteristics of all these types. Another option for an attic is to build a roof with broken slopes. In this case, the lower part of the roof has a greater slope than the upper. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make your home more comfortable.

Materials for work

The modern construction industry offers a huge number of traditional and innovative roofing materials. To understand all their diversity, you need to consider in detail the main types of parameters. However, first it is worth understanding what principles are used when choosing certain roofing materials. The choice of material depends on many factors:

The modern market is full of various roofing materials. They must not only be strong enough. A prerequisite is the ability to withstand various negative atmospheric factors.

Erection of the roof of a private house requires the preparation of tools and materials.

In particular, you will need:

Construction methodology

Let's look at how to make a roof correctly. To determine the configuration and size of the roof, it is necessary to take into account snow and wind loads in existing climatic conditions- how smaller angle, those better design withstands loads. But a small angle (40 degrees or less) does not allow full use of the attic space.

The shape and structure of the roof are designed in accordance with the project plan: the key supports of the roof system must coincide with the lines and points of the supporting structures of the lower floor. Thus, it is necessary to take into account the width of the house and the presence of a longitudinal load-bearing wall in the center. If the attic is not planned to be used as a living space, you can build a reliable roof with multi-layer rafters. In this case, the rafters are attached to a track that supports posts resting on an internal support wall.

If you decide to install the gable roof yourself, you should carefully read the step-by-step instructions. Roof performance also depends on proper insulation, performance and quality of installation finishing coating.

Independent Mauerlat device

Before you can reliably build the roof of a house, you need to take care of fastening the mauerlat - the wooden frame of the house, which serves as the boundary of the transition from the stone to the wooden part.

Block it in these ways:

The fill strengthens the belt around the perimeter and fixes the studs in it. The stud pitch should be from 1 to 1.5 meters.
Then the studs are fixed in the last rows of the house's masonry.

Cutting and installation of rafters

The rafters are the most difficult part of the job. It is important not only to mount the rafter legs, but also to cut them correctly. If it is skewed, the entire roof will “walk,” which is bad for the house.

Now it is necessary to cut off the upper edge of the board so that the rafter system of two parallel legs can be connected by cutting edges without voids or gaps. To do this, you need to lift the board up, lean it against the mauerlat and raise it to desired angle. In the center, overlapping the floor towards the rafters, you need to draw a line. This will be the cutting line for the board. That is, in the upper part of the rafter we get an inclined cut. All rafters, cut with a pattern, are assembled securely at the top using brackets, ties and bolts.

Roof gable installation

The pediment is a continuation of the wall, limited by the slopes of the roof. If there is a gable roof, then the gables of the house are triangular. When installing a structure, the first parts are first installed, which subsequently serve as a frame for the gables. It is necessary to strictly check the verticality of the structure and ensure that they are of the same height. A mountain ridge is attached to the upper part of the gables, onto which the remaining rafter structures are later mounted.

Usually, gables are sewn up after roofing works , but this can be done at an earlier stage. Installation of boards 50 x 100 or 50 x 150 mm is carried out in a vertical or horizontal direction. The pediment, which can be built with your own hands, is often equipped with windows. It is necessary to provide insulation of gables.

Installation of frame and roofing pie

Continuing the topic, it is worth noting that the next stage will be the installation of the frame and construction roofing pie. Once the system is ready, it is necessary to lay the frame, which will become the basis for other materials of the pie - vapor and waterproofing, as well as for other insulating and roofing materials.

The roof covering can be installed from unedged boards 100x50 mm. In this case, the spacing of the boards depends on the final roofing material. The heavier, the smaller the rack pitch should be. Usually it is 30 cm.

Important: It is advisable to lay a layer of vapor barrier under the frame. It will protect the insulation from evaporation from the house. The boards are already installed on top of the barrier.

Now, perpendicular to the tree, you need to lay the beam in steps equal to the width of the slabs or rolls of insulating material. Insulation is placed between them, carefully in the existing grooves.

From above everything is covered with a layer of waterproofing and fixed with another perpendicular frame (in in this case horizontal). And the last roofing material is already installed on it.

At the very end of the roof installation, a drainage system must be installed in the house. It is made from cut plastic pipes, they are bought in advance. Now all that remains is to sew up the roof with the selected material.

DIY roof covering

The plank is placed on the rafter system, the pitch of which is calculated based on the characteristics of the roofing material - its size and rigidity, and installation method. If the use of flexible materials is required (tiles, rolled bitumen), it is necessary to make an even frame.

Work on laying roof tiles is carried out in the following order:

Overlap must be reinforced in each wave. When covering the roof with metal tiles, special attention should be paid to the reliability of fastening the sheets and the accuracy of their connection.

When installing the roof, everything must be done as carefully as possible, otherwise heat losses will be very significant. Usually a gable roof is immediately made taking into account the use various materials. This allows you to build a roof with minimal economic costs. In addition, this approach speeds up and simplifies the installation of thermal insulation and vapor barrier systems. design gable roof It is recommended to perform it step by step with assistants. Compliance with work technology allows us to build a reliable, durable structure.

Roof installation on country house- a crucial moment. Mistakes here are fraught with significant material and monetary losses, and living in a house with a bad roof is truly painful. But troubles of this kind can be avoided if you take a responsible approach to design and execution issues. The ability to install a roof yourself, without trusting hired specialists, can help with this.

How to install a roof with your own hands

Reliable device roofing system on a country house is the final chord of the cycle of events for its construction. Then there are only Finishing work to achieve your dreams.

When starting to install a roof on a house, you need to clearly understand its purpose.

Reliable shelter of the building from the vicissitudes of the weather, preventing leaks.
Thermal protection interior spaces even at the lowest possible outside air temperature for this area.
A harmonious arrangement of the shape and color scheme of the finishing coating, corresponding to the exterior of the building frame and the landscape of the site and giving them additional charm.

Photo gallery: roofs made of various materials

A classic hipped roof made of metal tiles can last up to 50 years A properly constructed multi-pitched roof will be reliable and durable, despite a large number of joints and junctions Copper roofing materials are an indicator of the taste and wealth of the owner of the house and serve for more than 100 years Natural tiles require reinforced sheathing, but last a very long time and look impressive and attractive Soft tiles can be used to cover roofs of any complexity.

Is it possible to install a roof yourself?

In order to objectively understand and correctly assess your capabilities, you need to use various sources and learn how to perform the following operations.

Display the roof structure of the house at the level of at least a preliminary design.
Calculate the need for materials for rafter system, roofing cake and finishing coating.
Determine the installation scheme for the Mauerlat in order to distribute the loads from the roof onto the walls as much as possible and securely fasten the rafter system.
Choose the optimal angle of inclination of the slopes.
Calculate the pitch of the rafters.
Assess the need to install additional metal fastenings roof frame.
Study the purpose of lathing and counter-lattice and the rules for their installation.
Clearly understand the order of installation of layers of the roofing pie of an insulated roof.
Understand the principles of selection and placement of roofing finishes, as well as methods of fastening them.
Know the nomenclature and purpose of additional roofing elements and the procedure for their installation.

As you can see, this list, which is far from complete, presupposes quite serious preliminary preparation on theoretical issues. Next, you need to take care of the tools for doing the work. Its set does not include anything special - these are, as a rule, ordinary manual and electrical devices that are available in the household of almost any owner of a country house.

But most importantly, it is necessary to assess the level of your own skills in performing carpentry and roofing work. Let us note right away that purely theoretical knowledge is clearly not enough here. It is advisable to take part in such events several times in order to see working techniques and ways of performing individual operations, as well as their sequence.

Video: gable roof - how to do it easily and simply

Roof installation stages

Installation of the rafter system begins with the installation of a support device called a Mauerlat.

Mauerlat installation

In private suburban construction Mauerlat is a timber made of coniferous species wood with a section of 150x100 or 150x150 mm. It performs two important functions.

Uniform distribution of the load from the upper structure of the building to its walls.
Forming a base for fastening elements of the rafter system.

Thus, the Mauerlat represents the connecting link between the frame of the house and its roofing system. It is laid on load-bearing walls and fastened in various ways:

tying with wire ties, previously laid in the walls when laying them;
The wire can be walled into the wall when laying it or inserted into specially drilled holes later
fastening with studs to the armored belt, if provided for by the design of the house;
The pins are inserted and tied to reinforcement cage before pouring concrete
installation of a Mauerlat with fixation to the wall with staples using wood tabs placed during laying.
If you lay it in a brick wall when laying wooden inserts, you can attach the Mauerlat to them using metal brackets

These are the main methods of attaching the support base to the walls of the house.

Installation of the rafter system

Various materials are used to make the roof frame:

timber made of coniferous wood with transverse dimensions 150x50 mm. For a small house, even material with a cross-section of 100x50 mm will be enough;
glued wooden profiles in the form of an I-beam or beam;
metal profiles such as rectangular pipes or beams with a transverse dimension of up to 150 mm;
plastic profiles of various sections.

The choice of material depends on its price and availability on the market. It should be noted that wood and metal require additional anti-corrosion (for metal) or antiseptic and fire-resistant (for wood) surface treatment.

The rafter system is mounted in several ways.

Assembly directly on site. The material is supplied to the roof and there, based on the location, parts are produced and installed. This installation procedure allows you to continuously monitor the quality of the assembly and make the necessary adjustments in a timely manner.
One of the ways to install a rafter system is to assemble it on site
Assembly below on a specially installed slipway. The first pair is assembled according to the drawing with careful adherence to all dimensions. Subsequent rafter legs are made using the first product as a template. Upon completion of the work, a set of rafter legs is delivered to the installation site and installed there. Trusses assembled at the bottom usually include two rafters and a top tie. This configuration ensures stability of shape and the weight of the products can be lifted manually.
If the trusses are small, they can be assembled completely on the ground
Installation of a rafter system from ready-made trusses. They are ordered from specialized enterprises according to their own drawings. Delivery and (at the customer's request) installation are carried out by the contractor's staff. To assemble a rafter system in this way, as a rule, lifting equipment is used, but the quality is guaranteed.
If roof trusses are ordered in production, they will be made with perfect precision and high quality

Video: assembling rafters on the ground

Roofing pie device

The roofing pie is formed during the process of roof insulation. The natural question is: why is this necessary? It has been established that up to 25–30% of the heat received from the heating system in the house is lost through an uninsulated roof. A simple calculation shows that the costs incurred for insulating the upper structure will pay off quickly. In addition, an uninsulated roof makes a lot of noise during precipitation, especially if it is made of metal profiles. In addition to its insulation function, the roofing pie also successfully copes with noise absorption.

The insulating device for the roof is formed from several layers, each of which performs a specific function.

The roofing pie of an insulated roof consists of several layers laid in a strictly defined order

Vapor barrier

The purpose of a vapor barrier is to prevent moisture from the air coming from living quarters from entering the under-roof space. The fact is that one of the layers of the roofing pie is insulation, which is a fibrous material. Moisture can accumulate in the capillaries of the insulation mass, which leads to its clumping and loss of basic functional properties.

To prevent this process, diffusion films are used. They have microscopic holes that can only allow moisture to pass in one direction. Therefore, when correct location Regarding the insulation, the film protects it from external moisture, while simultaneously releasing water molecules from the inside and thus drying it out.

The roofing pie begins to form with the installation of a vapor barrier

An effective way to use vapor barrier films for pitched roofs is to place them directly on top of the insulation. This device allows you to use the entire length of the rafters for insulation. But to do this, you need to hermetically connect the individual canvases, for which adhesive tape is used.

The most popular are the three-layer films “Utafol D Standard”, “Utafol D Silver” and “Utafol D Special” made from polypropylene. For ease of installation, a colored stripe is applied along the edges of the film, indicating the amount of overlap during installation. For slopes with a slope of less than 20 o, its value should be 20 cm, for steeper roofs - 10 cm. The flooring is made along the roof, starting from the lower rows.

Vapor barrier films are produced in rolls up to 1.5 m wide and 10 m long.

Insulation

When a person hears the word “roof”, he creates an association with warmth and comfort in the room. This is only possible if the insulation material is correctly selected. The purpose of this layer is not to heat the roof, but to retain the heat generated in the house, so the key to success is its correct choice, which largely depends on the design of the roof. Otherwise, the general requirements for all types of this material are almost the same.

The decisive factor is the thickness of the insulation. The rules for its determination are given in SNiP 02/23/2003 “Thermal protection of buildings”. In accordance with this document, it is possible to obtain the value of the thermal resistance of a structure, determined by regional coefficients depending on climatic conditions. Using data on the thermal conductivity of the material (certificate indicator), you can determine the thickness of the insulation in meters.

By type of material, insulation is classified as follows.

Expanded polystyrene is a foamed plastic produced in slabs. Has low specific gravity and thermal conductivity. It is usually laid in several layers with overlapping joints. It is used for thermal insulation of flat roofs; its service life is determined by manufacturers at 50 years.
Expanded polystyrene boards are commonly used to insulate flat roofs
Polyurethane foam is a gas-filled plastic mass. Most often used for thermal insulation of roofs and attic spaces. With low thermal conductivity and low weight, it has vapor barrier properties and has a long service life.
Mineral wool. Made from natural natural materials, does not burn, retains heat perfectly. Moisture absorption is low, rodents do not live in it and bacteria and insects do not develop.
Foil insulation made of mineral wool has high thermal insulation properties due to the coating that reflects heat
Glass wool. This is a type of material made from waste from glass production. This insulation is non-flammable, resistant to getting wet and does not support the life of rodents.

In terms of manufacturability and price indicators, mineral wool is most often used for insulation, various modifications of which are suitable for pitched and flat roofs. The most commonly used materials are produced by Knauf (glass wool boards) and Rockwool (mineral wool), which have long gained popularity among consumers.

Finnish-made Izover roll insulation is also popular. It was one of the first to appear on the Russian market and still enjoys well-deserved prestige. It is used for both roofs and walls.

Waterproofing

Moisture can get into the insulation layer not only from internal space, but also from the outside. This occurs in cases where there are even slight defects in the laying of the finishing coating, as well as as a result of moisture condensation on its inner surface. In addition, any vapor barrier protection does not provide a complete guarantee against moisture ingress into the insulation, so it must also be removed.

To protect against these unfavorable phenomena, a layer of waterproofing is laid between the insulation and roofing material. Waterproofing films come in the following types.

Waterproofing films are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters from bottom to top. We remind you of some rules for its installation:

the amount of overlap when laying should be 15–20 cm; some manufacturers usually indicate the size of the overlap by color marking;
all connections must be secured with special perforated tape;
The waterproofing film is fixed to the rafters using a counter-batten up to 50 mm thick, creating a gap for ventilation.

For cold roof better use a budget option universal or diffusion film. Brands such as “Yutafol D”, “Izospan D”, “Folder D” and others are suitable. You can purchase more expensive products, but the ratio of price, quality and functionality will not be in their favor.

For an insulated roof or attic, you can use universal or diffusion film of the same brands, but with mandatory device ventilation duct. Superdiffusion can be installed on any roof and with any insulation method. Popular brands are “Folder”, “Tyvek”, “Yutavek”, “Light”, “Delta”, “Vent” and others.

Finishing coatings for roofing

The most suitable materials are used to cover roofs different materials. However, the basic requirements for them remain unchanged.

Tightness, providing complete protection of the interior from moisture and water in all its forms.
Low noise, protecting the living space from sounds coming from the roof during intense rainfall.
Durability, allowing the roof to be used for at least 15, and in some cases up to 50 years. Some types of roofs (slate, ceramic tiles, copper) make it possible to increase this period to a hundred years or more.
The total weight of the roofing system must correspond to the load-bearing capacity of the building frame and its foundation.
The appearance of the roof should harmoniously fit into the exterior of the site and the house.

Metal roofing is quite popular in private housing construction.

Profiled sheeting. It is made from galvanized sheet metal 0.45–0.7 mm thick using the profiling method, and is coated with a layer of zinc in its commercial form. In some cases, a paint or plastic coating is applied to the surface, increasing the service life and appearance products.
Metal tiles. It is made from the same material by stamping in a form that imitates natural tiles. Such roofing is always provided with an additional protective layer of resistant paint or plastic.
Seam roofing. It consists of smooth galvanized sheets connected with a special seam - a fold.
Coatings made of non-ferrous metals - aluminum and copper. May be shaped like shingles or available as flat sheets for seam roofs.

Photo gallery: types of metal roofing materials

Metal tiles make a beautiful and durable roof for any type of building The roof of a house made of corrugated sheets will be reliable, durable and inexpensive With the correct installation of the connecting seam, a seam roof lasts for several decades Copper tile roofing is difficult to install, but looks very beautiful and lasts more than 100 years

Other roofing materials are also used.

Asbestos slate - not so long ago it was leading in the list of roofing materials. Recently, its position has been supplanted by other types of materials. Today, slate is most often used to cover secondary buildings, although it has fairly high consumer properties.
Traditional asbestos slate is still a popular roofing material
Ceramic tiles are molded from certain types of clay and fired in ovens. The material is highly durable and easy to install due to its small sizes. Its only drawback is its heavy weight, which requires a fairly solid foundation. The service life in some cases exceeds 50 years.
Traditional ceramic material allows you to get a beautiful, reliable and durable roof
Cement-sand and concrete tiles are produced in formats close to ceramic analogues and have similar mechanical and consumer properties. It can be painted in various colors by adding dyes to the solution during the production process. The obvious disadvantage of this material is its heavy weight.
Cement-sand tiles look very beautiful and last a long time, but require a powerful rafter system due to their heavy weight
Roofing coverings made of composite materials, such as Shinglas tiles or ondulin, are made from cellulose with the addition of fibrous materials. During the production process, they are impregnated with polymer-bitumen compounds, which makes the material resistant to moisture and ultraviolet radiation. The advantage of this finishing coating is its light weight. The service life is determined to be at least 30 years, although confirmation of this fact can be obtained a little later.
For low-slope and flat roofs, fused roofing made from roll materials is often used. The basis for their manufacture is polymer mesh or glass fiber. For installation, the lower surface of the canvas is heated with a gas-flame burner and glued to the prepared surface. Upper layer covered with granite, basalt or slate chips. The peculiarity is the need for regular inspection and maintenance of the roof to identify and eliminate damage. The service life of such roofs does not exceed 10 years. The main types of roll materials on the Russian market are TechnoNIKOL, Uniflex, Bikrost.
Fused roll materials are usually used for flat and low-slope roofs
Self-leveling roofs - made from molten bitumen or compositions like liquid rubber by direct pouring onto the prepared surface. Distribution over the surface is carried out with special scrapers. The thickness of the layer should not exceed two millimeters. The result is a continuous coating without seams or joints.
Self-leveling roofing is a continuous sealed roofing carpet

Purely natural materials for finishing roofing include clay slate, straw and reeds, as well as wooden shingles. They are rarely used and are not competitive in the market.

Features of installation of various types and components of roofing

The roof covering must have a number of important characteristics, which were mentioned above:

tightness;
sufficient strength;
UV resistance;
compliance with climatic conditions.

Flexible roofing device

Flexible tiles fully meet these conditions, while being much cheaper than other materials. Before laying flexible tiles on the sheathing, you need to lay geotextiles to organize high-quality drainage. The use of this coating is possible for buildings of any purpose and for any roof shape.

The dimensions of the tile sheet are 1.0 x 0.33 m; it is made of fiberglass impregnated with polymer-bitumen compositions with the addition of various modifiers and plasticizers. The outer surface is covered with a protective layer of various types of crumbs, which makes it immune to ultraviolet radiation.

Video: installation of flexible tiles

Hard roof installation

Rigid roofs can be made from various materials:

corrugated sheeting;
metal tiles;
slate;
sheet covering in the form of galvanized or non-ferrous metals.

The process of installing the topcoat may look like this.

Overhang formation. To do this, fillets (extensions) are stuffed along each rafter leg, the cord is pulled between the extreme ends and the fillies are trimmed along one line.
Installation of waterproofing. The film is laid at right angles to the rafters in the direction from bottom to top and fixed with counter-lattice bars.
Installation of sheathing. It is laid from boards 25x100 or 25x150 mm. For profiled materials, the lathing is made sparsely. At the same time, at a distance of 400–500 mm from the ridge it is continuous.
For hard coverings, the sheathing is made sparse everywhere except in the area of the ridge and valleys
Laying the finishing coating. It is produced from any corner of the roof also in the direction from bottom to top. The amount of overlap is calculated in advance; it should not be less than recommended for the type of coating used. First, the first row is covered until the ridge is reached, after which the installation of the second and subsequent rows begins in the same order. The coating materials are fastened in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.
Installation of ridge strips and design of overhangs.
For filing eaves overhangs, it is best to use plastic or metal soffits with perforations for ventilation of the under-roof space

Each coating has its own methods of fastening and corresponding fasteners. Additional roofing elements are installed during installation.

Video: DIY metal profile installation

Cold roof installation

Installing a cold roof on a house is appropriate in areas where temperature differences are small, and heating season short The following operations are performed.

Installation of roofing accessories

Roofing accessories include the following products.

Snow guards. They are fencing in the form of barriers made of profile metal to retain snow on the roof slopes. Their purpose is to prevent spontaneous melting of snow masses, which can result in injury to people. Snow guards are attached to the finishing roofing on special stands. For metal tiles, these parts have a special shape.
Snow guards prevent spontaneous snow falling off the roof in winter
Stationary roof ladders. They are attached to the wall of the house (vertical part) and fixed to the ridge (pitched part). Used when inspecting the roof, performing current repairs, as well as for chimney maintenance.
Roof ladders are designed for safe climbing to the roof and moving along it.
Roofing ridges. Included in the delivery package of the finishing coating, intended for installation at the intersection of roof slopes.
Roofing walkways, which, like ladders, are necessary for moving along the roof during inspections, repairs and other operations at height.
Roofing walkways ensure safe work at heights
Roof fencing. They are installed along the perimeter of the slopes and are designed to prevent people from falling when working on the roof. They are used on the roofs of houses of two floors and above.

Installation of gutters on the roof

Gutters are an important part of the roof structure because their function is to collect water from the roof, including rain, melt and condensation. They are installed between water intake funnels.

There are two ways to install gutters.

Hanging gutters are attached to the top of the cornice paintings on special hooks.
Wall-mounted ones are installed on brackets attached to the wall.

Work on installing gutters is carried out after completing the design of the overhangs. Regardless of the installation method, gutters work equally successfully on roofs with any slope angle.

Video: installing gutters

Typical mistakes when installing a roof

Inexperienced builders often make mistakes, which can subsequently lead to significant costs.

Lack of armored belt over walls made of foam concrete blocks. Consequences - as a result of moistening the foam concrete and the influence of concentrated loads from the rafter system, the wall is destroyed at the support points, the roof warps and the sealing of the coating is compromised.
Ignoring the need to attach the rafter legs to the mauerlat. As a result of exposure to wind loads roof structure may be displaced or carried away under extreme magnitudes of impact. The requirements of paragraphs 5.1 and 7.1 of SNiP 02/31/2001 were violated.
Incorrect or missing ventilation ducts. Ventilation is necessary for rooms with high air humidity - toilets, bathrooms, kitchens, etc. In its absence, fungal and putrefactive formations may develop, contributing to the destruction of the load-bearing structures of the house. In addition, this negatively affects the health of residents.
Incorrect execution of the places where the rafter legs rest on the mauerlat due to the absence of a support platform in the form of an oblique cut. As a result, uncontrolled displacement of the rafter legs and deformation of the entire rafter system occurs. There is a violation of clauses 5.9 and 6.16 of SNiP II-25–80. The consequences are displacement of the rafter legs and complete destruction of the roof.
No rafter ties. Their purpose is to create a rigid triangle in trusses. If there are no tightenings, the roof moves apart and collapses. Ceiling transfers can be used as these elements.

This list can be continued for a long time. One thing needs to be understood - strict compliance with the requirements of the agreed and approved project is mandatory.

When planning roof installation work, you need to take care of the problems that may arise during its operation.

Purchase some spare fasteners so that you can replace damaged parts.
Buy a small can of paint of the appropriate color to repair damage to the protective layer.
During the first time after installation, inspect the roof surface at least once a month to identify damage. Detected defects must be eliminated immediately, preventing their development. This especially applies to self-leveling and built-up roofs.

In order for the operation of the roof to be long and trouble-free, it needs to be given constant attention, and also have a small repair kit for timely intervention if necessary.

In principle, there is nothing overly complicated about installing a roof with your own hands. You just need to know the basic rules for performing the work and have a clear understanding of the mechanics of the roofing system. It is important to start correctly, that is, create a preliminary design. After this, you must definitely show it to a design specialist and eliminate all comments. It should also be understood that self-production roofing doesn't mean doing all the work alone.

The final stage in the construction of any building is the construction of the roof. This design is an important part of the structure, which must reliably protect it from the penetration of precipitation, wind and cold. Methods for installing individual roof elements primarily depend on the type of structure chosen for the house.

One of the most common design options is a gable sloping mansard roof. Source hi.decorexpro.com

Different types of roofs differ in their design features and shapes. When arranging a roof, pitched roofing options (single-pitched, multi-pitched) are usually used.

The easiest to install are single-pitch ones, they are characterized by low labor intensity and high speed installation, due to the too low roof space it is not possible to equip a full-fledged attic (attic). Such a roof is installed on a building, the two walls of which have different heights. A pitched roof is rarely installed on residential buildings (usually in climatic zones, where they predominate strong winds). Most often they are installed in garages and all kinds of outbuildings.

According to the design features, multi-slope roofs are among the most complex types of roofs. They consist of a large number of structural elements. The installation of the rafter system of such roofs should be carried out especially carefully. Pitched roofs (according to their design features) are divided into:

attics, when a room is built under the roof where the owner can store various things or convert it into a living room;
without an attic, when the load-bearing components of the roof perform the functions of covering the upper floor.

With this design, there is no usable space left under the roof. Source blog-potolok.ru

Before building the roof of a house, you need to choose a certain type of multi-slope structure:

gable are the most common type, such a roof consists of two surfaces connected at the top, the edges form two gables, the slopes can be of different lengths, then the gables are transformed into triangles of irregular shape, such roofs can be covered with any roofing material, they are reliable, durable and easy to install;
hipped formed by four triangles (often different shapes), connected by vertices at a common point;
hip, in which two slopes are trapezoidal in shape, and the other two are triangular, they have good resistance to wind loads, so they are often located in the south;
half-hip, this subtype is formed in such a way that the lengths of the side planes are shorter than the lengths of the main ones; usually such structures are built in regions with difficult climatic conditions;
broken lines are a type of gable, formed from four planes connecting at an obtuse angle;

The main types of rafter system design Source zen.yandex.ru

multi-tongs different enough complex design, such roofs are installed on luxury houses that have an interesting geometric configuration;
attic they are installed when the attic is planned to be converted into a living space; this type has a broken profile and is quite difficult to install; it is often a type of multi-gable, gable roof;
tent form four triangular slopes, the tops of which are connected together.

Online roofing calculator

To find out the approximate cost of different types of roofing, use the following calculator:

Roofing material

Before roofing your house, you should decide on the type of roofing material. The load acting on the frame depends on its weight. This affects what kind of rafter system will be erected. Special considerations should be given to the fastening of individual roof elements. It is necessary to take into account the use of additional structures, the use of which strengthens the rafter system.

Pitched roofs are usually covered with:

sheet materials (corrugated sheets, metal tiles, copper, steel, aluminum seam roofing), bitumen-containing materials (ondulin);
piece materials (classic tiles, slate, bitumen shingles).

Modern “soft” roofing Source krovlyakryshi.ru

Ceramic tiles have the heaviest weight. If this type of roofing is chosen, then the rafter system must be designed taking into account such a significant load.

To equip the rafter system, you should purchase coniferous wood (humidity 20%, without knots, blue stains or other defects). Before starting roof installation, you also need to purchase the following materials:

roofing;
vapor barrier;
waterproofing film;
insulation;
iron staples;
self-tapping screws, screws, nails.

The calculation of the required material must be made according to the roof drawing, on which the connecting nodes of the rafter system, as well as reinforcing elements, should be placed.

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer roof design and repair services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Basic roof elements

Mauerlat;
rafter system;
roofing pie.

To install the Mauerlat it is used wooden beam(square or rectangular section). It serves as the basis of the entire structure and is where the roof is attached to the building. Mauerlat allows you to evenly distribute the load on the walls of the building.

The Mauerlat “collects” the load from the rafters and distributes it over the wall surface Source notperfect.ru

The cross-section of the timber is calculated based on the complexity of the roof and the weight of the frame. When installing the Mauerlat along the entire perimeter of the building, its elements are connected to each other according to the cutting principle. Additional reliability is provided by nails or bolted connections.

The rafter system is installed on the Mauerlat and serves as the basis for laying the roofing pie. The angle of the roof slope must be taken into account. A roof with a large slope is quickly freed from water and snow. Therefore, for the construction of roofs with a slope of 50º, rafters of a smaller cross-section are used than for flatter roofs. This information must be reflected in the design documentation.

If the roof is being erected on a building of small width, then A-shaped structures are installed (a ridge run is not needed). The horizontal jumper (crossbar) provides the required rigidity and also reduces the load on the thrust. The upper fastening of the rafter legs is reinforced with a wooden or metal plate.

The bottom of the rafters can rest against the mauerlat with a cut end (a design without an overhang). If the project provides for an overhang, then a recess is made at the bottom of the rafters. Top part The cutout rests on the Mauerlat.

The design of rafters without an overhang is used very rarely Source strindustry.ru

When arranging attic roofs, layered rafter systems are usually installed, in which the rafter legs are equipped with an additional support point. For this purpose, support posts are used, which are connected by purlins. Additional structural rigidity is provided by struts and other elements.

After installing the rafter system, the roofing pie is installed. First, waterproofing is installed, for which a special membrane is used. It must be fixed to the rafters. In order not to impair roof ventilation, you should avoid overlapping the membrane over the ridge. On top of the waterproofing, bars (counter-lattice) are attached to the rafters. This ensures the required air gap.

The lathing is attached to the counter-lattice. Depending on the type of roofing, it is made from:

boards;
blocks;
slab materials (when continuous sheathing is required).

The roof covering is attached to the sheathing. It takes on the entire load and redirects it to the structure of the rafter system.

If the roof is not “broken”, then the attic will not occupy the entire usable area of the attic Source lilyass.com

The procedure for constructing a roof

The construction process includes the following stages:

laying the Mauerlat;
arrangement of the rafter system;
construction of a roofing pie.

Before constructing the roof, you should order a design for the roof of the house. After completing the construction of the walls of the building, waterproofing (roofing felt, roofing felt) should be laid on top of them (under the Mauerlat). When arranging a gable (single-pitched) roof, it is laid on two walls on which the rafter legs rest. When is it being built hipped roof, then the installation of the Mauerlat is carried out around the entire perimeter of the building. Waterproofing is also installed on all walls.

After this, the floor beams should be installed. The ends of the beams should protrude to the planned width of the cornice (usually within 0.4-0.5 m). First, the outer beams are laid, then the remaining ones are placed (the pitch depends on the pitch of the rafters, usually 0.6 m). The beams are secured to the mauerlat with nails or self-tapping screws. Boards are laid on top (not secured).

The “skeleton” of the roof in a frame house has been assembled Source izoluks.ru

Further construction works include the installation of racks, for which a 50x150 board is used. They are fixed using spacers, and their height depends on the design of the particular roof. First, the outer racks are installed, after which the rest are installed. The ridge beam is attached to them with self-tapping screws.

The pediment frame is built and covered with inch boards. Then the entire cornice is installed. The ends of the ceiling are covered with a front board, and 2 belts of boards are attached below. Gutter holders should be installed.

A waterproofing membrane is attached to the rafters. A counter-lattice is installed on top, and then the sheathing is installed. Roofing material is laid on it.

The roof is insulated from the inside using modern heat insulators. Mineral wool is most often used for this. More expensive ones (sheet, sprayed polymer insulation) are used less frequently.

Insulation of the roof of a house with an attic Source euroace.org

The heat insulator is closed with a vapor barrier (special membrane). The material protects the insulation and all wooden structure from exposure to moisture.

Video description

The entire process of installing the roof and roofing is clearly and step-by-step in the following video:

Possible mistakes

Before you build a roof on a house, you should consider the following nuances:

it is important to correctly determine the dimensions of the floor spans; if the building has a sufficiently large width, then it is necessary to choose a rafter leg of the maximum cross-section;
to prevent sagging of construction legs when using rafters of small cross-section, the truss must be equipped with additional support posts and other elements;
when calculating the roof, wind loads should be taken into account; for this, the rafter legs must be secured with brackets;
The density of the sheathing (sparse, solid) depends on the type of roofing.

Variety of roofs

A layman can easily confuse a hip roof with a hip roof Source bazaznaniyst.ru

Complicated version gable roof Source yandex.ru

Sloping roof for a house with an attic Source biznes-stroi.ru

Cone roof on a rounded part of the house Source stroi-remontirui.ru

A combination of old and new - a gable roof on a house in Art Nouveau style Source fasad-master.com.ua

The complex multi-tiered roof looks very impressive Source mirstrojka.ru

Video description

A few more beautiful and practical types of roofs in the following video:

Conclusion

A well-made roof is a guarantee of a warm and dry home. Therefore, it is important to strictly follow all stages of the technology for constructing the rafter system and laying the roofing pie. To avoid the need to redo the entire structure over time, entrust the construction to professionals.

In this article I will try to describe in detail how a gable roof is built. This form is practically the simplest, suitable for a private house, and its construction, from the point of view of monetary costs, is more profitable compared to other more complex roof configurations.

- in the second case, the rafters rest on the floor beams of the floor below. A gable roof made according to this option will be described here.

Let's take a brick box house as an example. Its dimensions are 8x8 meters, height 3 meters. The construction of any roof with your own hands begins with the installation of maeurlat (Fig. 1). Methods for attaching it to the walls were described in the article, which you can read

We install the Mauerlat flush with the inner surface of the walls. It should be bricked up on the outside so that it is not visible. In this case, the upper surface of the Mauerlat should be 2-3 cm higher than the top surface of the facing brick, so that the entire load from the roof is transferred only to the Mauerlat. No need to load.

Next we install the floor beams. We do this in the sequence shown in Fig. 2. First of all, we install the beams indicated by the numbers 1,2,3,4. Their extension determines the width of the cornice. We usually take it from 40 to 50 cm at the request of the customer. As beams we use a beam, the cross-section of which is determined by making a simple calculation described in detail. In our case, it will be a beam of 100x200 mm.

After securing the outer floor beams, we pull the string along the upper plane and set the remaining beams, if necessary, tightening the Mauerlat under them, or, on the contrary, placing thin plywood (you just often order timber with a height of 200 mm, and they deliver it from 190 to 210 mm, this is what we have on our sawmills equipment). We select their pitch taking into account the pitch of future rafters. When using 50x150 mm floorboards as rafters, take a step of 60-70 cm (it is better to take 60 cm, since roofing insulation has this width).

Having installed all the long beams, we install the short ones (Fig. 2). Their step is enough to take about 1 meter. This diagram is slightly different from what we are used to seeing in similar pictures. We came to it after the gable ebb on one of our first roofs sagged, although the ebb fillers were quite securely fastened. In this scheme, the possibility of sagging is completely eliminated.

We fasten all beams to the mauerlat with 150 nails; you can also use metal rafter angles and self-tapping screws. In general, the use of various fastening elements for rafter connections, makes work easier. This is especially convenient for an inexperienced person; there is no need to make complex cuts and nicks. We have already talked about this in the article ““.

After installing all the beams, we lay (without fastening) boards on them, maybe floorboards, maybe inch boards. They are needed simply to walk on them calmly. In order not to clutter the drawing, I did not show them on it. The next step is to install the ridge beam.

First of all, we place racks made of 50x150 mm boards level or plumb and fasten them with temporary spacers. In Fig. The 3 spacers are shown on one post only, again to avoid cluttering the drawing. The pitch of the racks is no more than 3 meters. First we place the outer ones, then, pulling the laces between them, we place the intermediate posts. After the entire truss has been erected, the intermediate posts can be removed and you can easily create living rooms on the second floor.

The height of the racks is selected depending on the shape of the roof you want to achieve. I usually advise customers to take it equal to the height of the first floor along the facade (the distance from ground level to the mauerlat). This proportion is also shown in the figures.

Having installed the racks, we place the ridge beam on them and literally fix it with a couple of screws. We use a 50x200 mm board (in principle, 50x150 mm is also possible).

Now we move on to the installation of rafters. First we need to make a template from a 25x150 board. To do this, apply it to the end of the ridge beam and to the beam (Fig. 4) and draw two lines. Having sawed off a board along them, we get a rafter template.

Of course, it is very good when the foot of the house is laid out with high geometric accuracy and the floor beams are also installed. Then we can cut all the rafters at once according to the template and calmly install them. But to be honest, this is quite difficult to achieve, and even more difficult when a new roof is being installed on an old house.

In this case, we first make only the top cut on the rafter according to the template. Then we take the resulting workpiece, apply it to the desired beam and mark the bottom cut, as they say in place. All rafters are installed in this way (Fig. 5). Please note that after installing one rafter, we immediately install the opposite one in order to quickly remove the lateral load on the ridge beam (otherwise it will bend).

When the length of the roof slope is large and a standard 6-meter board is not enough, you can go in two ways. The first (I think it is preferable) is to order longer boards at the sawmill. Of course it will cost more. For example, at the end of autumn 2012, 1 cube of 6-meter boards cost about 5,500 rubles, and 1 cube of 7.5-meter boards cost 7,000. But installing rafters is easier and faster than using the second method.

The second method requires splicing two boards. This can be done by sewing on them a piece of board of the same section 1.5 - 2 meters long. See the figure for how this is done. It is better to make the joint at the bottom, and an additional stand must be installed under it.

We attach the rafter to the ridge beam with two or three nails. To attach to the floor beam, we have recently been using metal fastening plates and screws and adding a couple of nails. Sometimes we use staples. By the way, I have seen many times how people use staples, but they do it incorrectly. The bracket must work in tension. Below in the left photo - how not to do it, on the right - how to do it.

Strengthening roof truss, let's start working on the gables. First, we install additional posts that will serve as the frame of the pediment (Fig. 7). The accuracy of installation is controlled by a string stretched along the bottoms of the rafters. Then we make a window opening (Fig. 8). You can make it any size and configuration you want. Please note that in the picture, the post standing in the center of the window (supporting the ridge beam at the beginning) was simply cut. It no longer bears virtually any load. Having finished with the frame, we sheathe the pediment with an inch (for example, 25x150 mm) (Fig. 9).

The next step is to hem the eaves boards around the entire perimeter of the house. The front board (sewn to the ends of the floor beams) is made from a 25x200 mm board. From the bottom to the cornices we sew two belts from a 25x100 board (Fig. 10). They are more than enough to secure the soffit when finishing the exterior.

Now, if we are going to install a drainage system and use metal holders for gutters, they need to be installed on the footrails right now (under the waterproofing film). Moreover, it is also advisable to cover the front boards with siding at this stage. Then it will not be very convenient to do this. I didn't show this in the picture. In addition, we now only use plastic gutter holders that are attached directly to the front board. They are more convenient and can be installed after the roof is assembled.

Next we proceed to the sheathing. First of all, with the help construction stapler We fix the first strip of waterproofing film on the rafters (Fig. 11). It is more convenient to work if you already have scaffolding installed around the perimeter of the house. In any case, you will have to install them when you are doing the roofing, drainage, and sheathing the eaves with siding.

Having secured the film, we nail the counter-lattice slats (25x50 mm) to the rafters. The need to use a counter-lattice is described in detail here: . Do not forget to leave space for the overlap of the subsequent waterproofing strip.

Then we make the sheathing. Now I will not focus on the rules for its installation. This topic is for a separate article. Moreover, to anyone roofing Attached are instructions that describe in detail how to make the sheathing specifically for this material (the pictures schematically show the sheathing for metal tiles). I will try to prepare a new article on this topic in the near future.

In this way we cover the entire roof (Fig. 12). After this, all that remains is to make the gable overhang and gable ebb. The sequence here is:

Using self-tapping screws, we attach the wind board of the gable overhang (25x150 mm) from below to the protruding ends of the sheathing (Fig. 13);

We insert and secure with self-tapping screws the fillets of the gable overhang (board 25x150). The distance between them is approximately 1 meter (Fig. 14);

We sew two belts to the fillies from below (board 25x100). There are also enough of them to subsequently cover the gable overhangs with siding (Fig. 15);

From pieces of 50x150 boards of the required length we prepare triangular fillies for the gable ebb according to the figure (Fig. 16). Then, having secured them to the stems, we also nail two belts (25x100) to them.

This completes our roof. What happened in the end and what will happen after completing the roofing work and covering the gable and eaves with siding is approximately shown in Figures 17 and 18.

Can a regular House master build the roof of a house with your own hands? At first glance, the task seems quite difficult, but after practicing own dacha, I realized that everything is real. I will show you step by step and tell you how to make a roof with your own hands, what components it consists of, and what roofs in private houses generally are like.

Briefly about types of roofs and general terminology

Before making a roof, you need to understand what structures exist and what their main elements are called. Otherwise, you will not understand anything in the specialized literature, plus it will be difficult for you to talk with sellers in a store or at the market.

Which design is better to choose?

Types of roofs	Short description
	Single-pitch. The simplest, most affordable and economical option in terms of materials. The problem is that it is not suitable for medium and large houses. Most often, a pitched roof is installed on garages, sheds and other outbuildings.
	Gable or forceps. A traditional and quite convenient design that is suitable for any home with a rectangular or square “box”. Now more than half of the owners of private houses and summer cottages choose a gable roof.
	Tent. The hipped roof looks like a tetrahedral pyramid consisting of isosceles triangles with a common vertex. Nowadays it is rare, the main reason lies in the complexity of the beam-tensioning system on which this design is based.
	Four-slope or hip. This design is also based on a beam-tensioning system, but is more common than a tent structure. Amateurs should not undertake these types of roofs.
	Half-hip. IN classic version The half-hip roof is no longer in use. The structure is assembled according to a gable rafter scheme using tie rods and upward-curved “fillies”.
	Multi-slope. Of all existing multi-pitched roofs, it is considered one of the most complex structures. It is installed only on buildings with an “original” layout or houses with several extensions. Only highly qualified professionals can work with such roofs.
	Attic. This type of roof is only slightly inferior in popularity to the gable structure. People are attracted to residential attic space. With your own hands mansard roof It is possible to build, but you need some experience, so it is better to start with a gable roof.

After analyzing the popular types of structures, I realized that for an amateur, the optimal solution would be to install a gable roof.

General terminology

Ribs- all external corners and bends, except the top edge, are called ribs;
Valva- front plane in a multi-slope roof;
Endova - internal corner between adjacent planes on roofs with several slopes;
Horse- the upper edge of the roof where the slopes meet. There is no ridge on a hipped or lean-to structure;
Dormer window- a small triangular or spherical insert into the roof slope with a window frame inside. It is mounted more for decoration; there is little functional load on the dormer window. Amateurs should not mess with such designs;
Eaves overhang- this is a section of the lower part of the roof, or rather everything that is outside the wall. It is to the edge of the cornice that rain drains are attached;
Gable- a vertical sector on the facade of the building located between the roof slopes;
Gable overhang- lateral inclined cut of the roof plane.

Now let's figure out what the internal roof structures are called.

Mauerlat- a support beam that is mounted on the walls along the perimeter of the house frame; it can also be called the roof foundation. The cross-section depends on the weight of the roof and the dimensions of the house; most often it ranges from 100x100 mm to 200x200 mm;
Rafter legs- almost main element structures on which the entire roof rests. In a gable roof they meet at an angle and form a stable isosceles triangle. For medium-sized houses, beams of 50x150 mm are taken, and in big houses 100x150 mm or 100x200 mm;
Rack- a vertical beam supporting the rafter legs. Can be based on ceiling beams or planks;
Lezhny- this is something like a Mauerlat, only the beds are installed not along the perimeter of the box, but on the walls of a large house. These elements are only used in the "layered" system, which I will mention later;
Puff or crossbar - a horizontal beam that connects two adjacent rafters of a gable roof and forms an isosceles triangle with them, thereby increasing the strength of the entire structure;
Run- mounted in cases where the tie-rods are not installed on all rafter pairs. Purlins are needed for additional support of the rafter legs and saving timber;
Ridge beam- (it is not indicated on this diagram) is mounted horizontally and installed at the top point of the gable roof directly under the connection of the rafter legs or between the rafter legs.

Preparation and installation of a gable structure

At the preparation stage, you calculate the rafter system, draw a sketch or drawing, after which you purchase material and prepare the tools.

Roof calculation

The first thing you need to know is the angle of the roof plane. All pitched systems are divided into 3 types:

Flat roofs - in them the angle of inclination does not exceed 5º. IN residential buildings practically never occur;
Roofs with an average slope - here the slope should be from 5º to 30º. Well suited for steppe areas where there are strong winds and little snow;
Roofs with a steep slope - these include all slopes with a slope of more than 30º. These roofs are installed in areas with snowy winters, because the steeper the slope, the faster the snow will melt off it.

As for the calculations themselves, here you need to divide the roof height from attic floor to the ridge, half the length of the span along the horizon. If you want to get the value as a percentage, then multiply the result by 100%.

Illustration	The difference between a layered system and a suspended system
	Hanging system. The rafters in this system are installed only on the mauerlat between the load-bearing walls. If the rafters are supported by posts, then the posts are attached to the ceiling beams.
	Layered system. This system differs from the suspended one in that the racks supporting the rafters are based on both load-bearing walls, and on the walls inside the house.

Tools and materials

From the tool you will need:

Axe;
Hand saw on wood and metal;
Chainsaw or electric saw;
Hammer;
Plane;
Drill;
Screwdriver;
Set of open-end wrenches.
Tape measure, level, plumb line.

It is advisable to knock down at least 1 stand from the boards for working at heights, popularly called a “goat”.

Materials:

Beam for rafter legs- the most common section is 50x150 mm;
Beam under the mauerlat- you can take a solid beam or assemble it from material under the rafter legs. In both cases the price is approximately the same;
Beams for tightening, purlins and racks– I took a 50x50 mm block, but you can use a 50x150 mm rafter beam;
Bars for counter lathing- standard section 30x40 mm;
Board for roofing sheathing - matched to the roofing material, the most common option is an unedged board;
Metal studs with threads and nuts for them - cross-section 12–14 mm;
Mounting angles and plates- sold ready-made with holes for self-tapping screws;
Self-tapping screws
Nails- in assortment starting from length 50 mm and more;
Metal staples- made from reinforcement or rolled steel with a thickness of 10 mm or more.

Mauerlat installation

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Arrangement of the block base. If the house is block (brick, cinder block), then under the mauerlat you need to pour a reinforced concrete belt on top of the wall. The height of the belt is 250–300 mm, the width of the belt is equal to the thickness of the wall. You make wooden formwork, put a reinforcement cage inside and fill everything with concrete.
	Laying the studs. Even before pouring the concrete, you need to vertically install a series of threaded studs or simply pieces of reinforcement in the center of the future piping in increments of 0.6–1 m. The Mauerlat will then be attached to them. In houses made of aerated concrete, a reinforced concrete belt is poured directly inside the U-shaped shaped aerated concrete blocks.
	Mauerlat in wooden house . In wooden houses there is no Mauerlat as such; its function is performed by a beam or log of the upper frame.
	Leveling the base. The base under the Mauerlat must be perfectly level; if you missed this point at first, you will need to level it before installation. The base can be leveled with cement-sand mortar or glue for aerated concrete blocks (glue is used in houses made of aerated concrete).
	We arrange waterproofing. The timber should not be in direct contact with the concrete, so before laying the Mauerlat we cover the roofing material on top, preferably in 2 layers.
	Installation of timber. We drill holes in the Mauerlat for the studs embedded in the wall, put the beam on the studs and pull it to the wall. Be sure to place a wide washer on top and tighten the fastening. A solid beam is joined into half a tree, that is, you make a cutout as in the photo, join two sectors and drive 5–7 on top long screws or nails. If the Mauerlat is assembled from rafter beams, then they are simply laid out staggered and fastened with self-tapping screws.
	Mauerlat. There are cases when the Mauerlat is assembled from pieces laid between the floor beams, but the strength of such a structure is much lower, plus you will need 2 times more anchors for fastenings.
	Wood processing. Absolutely all the wood that goes into the construction of the roof must be treated at least 2 times with antiseptics and fire retardants, otherwise the roof will last no more than 10–15 years, then it will be eaten by bugs.
	Wood moisture. You cannot make a roof from freshly cut timber; during the drying process under load, the beams and boards may bend or begin to crack. To reduce costs, you can take freshly cut timber in advance and stack it under a canopy; the wood will dry over the season; the stacking procedure is shown in the diagram on the left.

Installation of truss structure

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	Installing the outer rafters. The first 2 triangles to be placed are at the edges. To keep them from wobbling, I reinforced both triangles with a temporary stand and a diagonal support. In addition, I also secured the temporary vertical stand with two boards diagonally.
	Starting fastenings for rafters. I installed 50x150 mm bars on the Mauerlat and secured them with metal corners. The bars are cut at the angle of the roof. Please note: the corners are attached to 8 self-tapping screws (4x4) and are installed only on one, outer side.
	Fixing rafters from below. As the rafter legs are installed, the base of the beam is clamped with the same stop and fastened with self-tapping screws. Later, in addition to the self-tapping screws, I plan to tighten this entire structure with a 12 mm through pin.
	Additional fixation. In principle, such fasteners are sufficient, but to be sure, I decided to support the rafter leg from below with triangles.
	On the outer rafter triangles, I placed 2 metal corners from the inside. A metal trim is screwed on the outside, and then the pediment will be sheathed on top with 25 mm boards and siding.
	Gain. In addition, 1 m from the mauerlat on the outer rafters, I attached additional supporting posts.
	Ridge beam. I put a ridge beam on top, for this I attached 2 tie rods (crossbars) to the rafters with a gap of 150 mm, inserted a beam between them and secured it with metal corners on self-tapping screws.
	Extension. The ridge beam was longer than the rafter leg, so it had to be extended. I put 2 overlays from the same timber on the sides and pulled it all together on both sides with 12 mm studs.
	Fixing the rafters from above. My rafters were 6 m long, and the entire span was 7 m wide. At the top point, the load was significant, especially in the outer triangles, so I cut out linings from a 5 mm thick steel sheet, drilled them and tightened them with five studs.
	Fastening the puffs(crossbars). Intermediate crossbars on the outer rafter triangles are inserted inside and fixed with metal plates on both sides.
	Hairpins. All other rafter triangles are fastened with two ties (one tie on each side). The ties on the rafters are secured with two studs and four self-tapping screws.
	Pull the cord. After the final installation of the outer rafter triangles, a cord is pulled between them. This guideline will help us align all the other rafters in the same plane.
	Planting the rafters. In my case, each rafter at the point of connection with the Mauerlat was trimmed, as shown in the photo. But this is not the only option for connecting the rafter leg to the Mauerlat.
	Rafter planting options. Option A - we wrap the rafter leg around the mauerlat; Option B - not only the rafter leg is trimmed, but also the mauerlat itself; Option B - the rafter leg is cut at an angle, but to prevent the cutout from slipping, stops are still attached to the beam on both sides; Option D is the same as option B, only in it the rafter leg is not cut off near the mauerlat, but continues for at least another half a meter and you get a ready-made eaves overhang. There are also cuts with a “tooth”, but they require experience and special tools.
	Docking in a wooden house. In a wooden house, the rafters cannot be rigidly attached to the mauerlat; when they shrink, they will warp. For fixation, a floating mount is used here; in the photo on the left you can see how it works.
	fillies. My eaves overhang turned out to be a continuation of the rafters. If the length of the rafters is not enough, then they are rested against the mauerlat or extended floor beams, and the eaves overhang is increased due to the so-called “fillies”. Usually these are bars with a cross-section of 50x100 mm, which are attached to the rafters with self-tapping screws. Each such block should overlap the rafters by at least half a meter and hang over the wall by the same distance.
	Rafter system. The assembly of the rafter system is completed, now I will show you how to properly mount the under-roof sheathing.

Roof installation rules

Illustrations	Operating procedure
	We mount the drip. The first to be mounted on the edge of the gable overhang is a “drip cap” - a corner made of a thin metal sheet, which is needed to seal the cut. To do this, I cut niches in the rafters and fill them with 25x150 mm boards on both sides, so as to form a corner. On that outside corner The dropper is attached with self-tapping screws.
	Barrier for thermal insulation. A barrier is inserted and fixed between the rafters parallel to the wall; it will prevent the internal under-roof thermal insulation from sliding down. I made the barrier from a 25x150 mm board. The board is attached at 3 points with self-tapping screws, along the edges to the rafters and below to the mauerlat. The screws are driven at an angle.
	Glue the tape. In order for the waterproofing membrane to fit tightly to the drip edge, I first glue “K2” butyl rubber tape to the edge, and then glue double-sided tape onto it.
Laying the membrane. On the sides, the membrane should extend beyond the wall by 15 cm; The membrane is rolled out horizontally; The lower edge of the membrane is glued to double-sided tape; The canvas itself is attached to the rafters with a stapler.
	Counter-lattice. As soon as one strip of the membrane is secured, we begin to attach the counter-lattice. I used a 30x40 mm block and screwed it to the rafters with 80x5 mm self-tapping screws. It is desirable that all self-tapping screws be stainless steel coated.
	Seal. At the bottom of the counter-lattice bars I glued strips of cross-linked polyethylene 3 mm thick; on one side this tape has an adhesive layer. With such a seal, the strip holds the membrane along the entire line of contact, moisture cannot penetrate under the strip, plus the staples from the stapler are closed.
	Fastening the sheathing. The pitch of the outer sheathing depends on what type of roof you have; in my case, metal tiles will be installed, so I fill the boards with a pitch of 300 mm. The thickness of the board is 20–25 mm. The next strip of membrane is rolled out and attached overlapping the previous one. Marks are visible in the photo; the edge of the next tape will follow these marks. Plus, the joint is taped with double-sided tape. I secured the outer sheathing with 100x5 mm self-tapping screws and additionally nailed it with 120 mm nails.
	Ridge waterproofing. When waterproofing a ridge, the membrane must be placed as a single sheet under the counter-lattice. I overlapped 350 mm on each side; according to the rules, 200 mm is enough.
	Chimney. It is advisable to remove the chimney before you begin installing the waterproofing, so it will be convenient for you to bypass it.
	Finished roof. I decided to make the roof of the house from metal tiles. One of standard sizes sheet of metal tiles 6 m, the rafters were made exactly to this size. You can choose any other type of roofing, by the way, the most affordable option It’s slate, but it will have to be replaced in 10–15 years.
	Insulation. You can insulate the roof in different ways; I laid dense slabs of mineral wool between the beams, and on top of everything I sewed up a layer of vapor barrier and stuffed it with clapboard. Instead of cotton wool, you can use foam boards, but this insulation does not allow air to pass through. But keep in mind that you need to take mineral wool slabs. Soft mats will “sit down” and within 5–7 years they will look like a thin blanket.

Conclusion

Perhaps she detailed instructions, which I described above, is not ideal, but I succeeded, which means you can do it too. The video in this article will help you understand this topic in more detail. If you have any questions, write in the comments, such a discussion will benefit everyone.

Sections