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“I have already done pruning of the apple tree. This year I want to try pruning a pear tree. Are there any special features when working with it? - asks a regular reader of my blog. In this article I will try to answer this question and tell you in detail about features of pear pruning when growing it.

The basic rules of agricultural technology, including pruning a pear, are very often compared with the techniques of pruning an apple tree. Indeed, the main principles of pruning pear trees, especially in the first years of fruiting, are similar to pruning an apple tree ring type fruiting, that is, those that bear fruit on short branches - ringlets.

The most convenient form of pear crown is to form it like a sparsely tiered, improved cup-shaped, lobed, free-growing palmette.

The pear also has its own characteristics that must be taken into account both when forming the crown of young trees and during maintenance pruning of mature old trees.

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The pear is distinguished by pronounced apical growth, and an even more compressed and narrow crown. Almost all pear varieties are distinguished by good bud awakening, but long growth shoots are formed poorly, most often only from the apical bud or adjacent to it. At the same time, the crown of a pear, even without the intervention of a gardener, usually develops quite successfully. That is, the pear itself forms its own crown, which is sparser and lighter than that of an apple tree.

The difference between pruning a pear and an apple tree

The difference between pruning a pear tree and an apple tree is that the former does not tolerate severe shortening of annual shoots and young branches. Disproportionate shortening leads to a burst of growth and overgrowth to the detriment of crown formation. That is, “panicles” of strong annual shoots grow on strongly shortened branches. Therefore, if there is a need to shorten a branch, then this operation is carried out weaker than in an apple tree, removing only 1/4 or 1/5 of the length of the shoot or branch.

Even in at a young age A pear tree differs from an apple tree in the possibility of a large number of tops appearing on it. Therefore, all poorly located tops (as a rule, they are inside the crown of the tree and clearly thicken it) must be removed, and the rest must be turned into overgrowing branches by pruning or bending.

In young trees, care is taken not to overload the first tier with skeletal branches. If at a height of 60 - 70 centimeters from the first tier you can have 3 - 4 skeletal branches sparsely (running along the trunk), then no more than three branches are left in the lower tier.

When forming the crown of a pear, it is better to resort to gentle pruning techniques: pinching growing shoots to weaken their growth, bending or tightening branches to subordinate them, giving optimal branching angles, etc. However, when bending branches, arched bends of the branches should be avoided. Let me remind you: on the upper part of such an arc a a large number of top shoots.

What to remember when pruning a pear tree

In a personal garden (garden), tall pears are inconvenient.

The disadvantages of pear crowns include their pyramidal nature and the rather frequent formation of hanging branches in mature fruit-bearing trees, which hang over each other, thicken and shade the lower part of the crown.

The advantage of this breed is that it is easy to grow while limiting the height of the crown. This is achieved by annual limiting pruning with the removal of all vertical restoration shoots in the upper part of the crown.

To reduce the negative effects of pruning, narrow pear crowns are expanded by transferring first-order branches (skeletal branches) located close to the center of the crown to outer second-order branches.

Every gardener dreams of growing good harvest sweet apples and tasty pears. Using the information from our article, this will be very easy to do.

10 most popular summer apple varieties

Early varieties of apple trees are found in almost any garden. They are eagerly awaited for their ripening, because you can enjoy the new harvest even before the Apple Savior - in July-August. Summer varieties of apples have different colors, shapes, aroma and taste. These apples are mainly consumed in fresh, sometimes used to make juices, preserves and jams. Most often, summer varieties are chosen by amateur gardeners, since they are not suitable for long-term storage and transportation.

1. Arkad yellow and Arkad pink

One of the ancient varieties obtained by crossing winter-hardy varieties. The fruits have a sweet taste, but do not store for a long time. The tree has an elongated crown, with sparse, long branches. The fruits are cylindrical in shape with a yellowish tint, and Arkada pink has a reddish blush. Both varieties are characterized by low yields and poor resistance to scab.


Entry into fruiting: 3-4 years. Harvesting takes place throughout August.

2. Moscow Grushovka (Skorospelka, Spasovka, Parsley)

One of the oldest (known since the 18th century) and winter-hardy varieties (withstands frosts down to -45-50°C). The crown of trees is usually pyramidal, becoming spherical with age. The fruits are small and medium-sized, spherical, flattened in shape. The color of the fruit varies from light green to lemon, pale white. As they ripen, they become covered with a red blush and pink stripes. The pulp is juicy, loose, slightly yellowish, and has a subtle, warm apple aroma.


A distinctive feature of the variety: at the bottom of the saucer there are five outgrowths, corresponding to the number of carpels. The variety is productive and early-bearing, but is not resistant to hot weather - it can drop its fruits.
Entry into fruiting: 4-5 years. Harvesting - end of July - first ten days of August.

3. Katya

One of the most late varieties with increased winter hardiness. Particularly resistant to scab and powdery mildew apples During the ripening period, the fruits are covered with a bright pinkish-red blush, which is blurred over almost the entire surface. The pulp is cream-colored, dense, juicy, with a pronounced sweet and sour taste. Apples are stored for a long time, especially in the refrigerator or cellar, and are highly transportable. However, they are mainly consumed only fresh.


Entry into fruiting: 3-4 years. Harvest - second half of July.

4. Quinty

This summer variety is about 30 years old and was bred in Canada specifically for regions with low average annual temperatures. The fruits ripen very early, have a pleasant sweet and sour taste and a persistent aroma. They are small with a smooth surface. The variety is resistant to heat and drought, as well as powdery mildew. However, it does not tolerate severe frosts well and is susceptible to scab. The tree is tall, with a spreading crown.


Entry into fruiting: 5-6 years. Harvesting is from mid-July to early August.

5. Chinese golden early

An early-ripening frost-resistant variety obtained from crossing White filling with Kitayka. The geography of the variety is quite wide and covers not only the middle zone, but also the regions of Siberia and the Far North. It is distinguished by increased frost resistance and early fruiting, pleasant taste and early fruit ripening. The apples are small, amber-colored yellow color, are poorly resistant to scab and are not stored for a long time.


Entry into fruiting: 4 years. Harvesting - end of July - first ten days of August.

6. Summer striped

The red blush of the fruits of this variety has a striped color, which distinguishes it from other varieties. The rest of the color of the fruit is greenish-white. Apples are consumed fresh and processed - compotes and jams are made from them. Its taste is a godsend for apple connoisseurs. It combines delicious and fragrant aroma with juicy and tender pulp. In general, the variety is unpretentious, frost-resistant and slightly affected by scab. It can be grown in almost any conditions, obtaining a rich harvest.


If the fruits are not removed in a timely manner, they begin to crumble, but they cannot be stored raw for a long time. About 20% of the apples received are top quality, and another 35-40% - to the first grade.
Entry into fruiting: 5-6 years. Harvesting - late July - early August.

7. Mantet

A variety obtained by Canadian breeders from Moscow Grushovka seedlings from open pollination. It has a pleasant taste and early ripening. The main color of the fruit is greenish-yellow, later acquiring a bright red speckled blush on an orange-red background. The flesh is tender, white. In the years bountiful harvest The size of the fruit decreases, and the number increases. In rainy years, leaves and fruits may become scabbed, and in severe winters the trees may freeze severely.


Entry into fruiting: 4 years. Harvesting - end of July - end of August.

8. Melba (Melba)

The variety belongs to the group of late summers, is distinguished by its unpretentiousness and high yield. The fruits are quite large and, which is not typical for summer varieties, can be stored in the refrigerator until the beginning of winter. In addition, the fruits of this variety can be used to make jams and compotes. When ripe, the skin of apples is yellowish with red stripes that cover almost half of their surface. The pulp is sweet, juicy and tender, with a pleasant sourness.


Entry into fruiting: 4-5 years. Harvest - second half of August.

9. Padding (Alabaster, White filling, Pribaltiyskoe)

One of the most popular varieties, bred in the Baltic countries, but has long been successfully grown in middle lane. It is often used as a source for creating many new varieties of apple trees. The fruits are round-conical, slightly flattened, of medium size. The color of the fruit is light green and does not change during ripening. The pulp is loose, juicy, tender, with a pleasant sweet and sour taste. The variety is winter-hardy, but unsuitable for transportation.


Entry into fruiting: when planting two-year-olds for 4-5 years. Harvest - August 5-10 and August 20-25.

10. Stark Erliest (Superprekos)

American variety. The fruits are usually of heterogeneous shape - from medium-small to medium in size. With age they become smaller and their number increases. At the same time, commercial and consumer qualities remain at high level. The tree tolerates the most severe frosts and at the same time has a neat crown. The variety is resistant to scab, and its only drawback is that the fruits ripen gradually, and not all at once.


Entry into fruiting: 3-4 years. Harvesting is done in several stages: from the second ten days of July to mid-August.

The most delicious pear varieties according to gardeners' reviews

Surprisingly, very often truly tasty pears are not very beautiful in appearance. Conversely, the fruits of most varieties, which look like they could be sent straight from the branches to the shelves, often do not have any special taste.

1. August dew

High-yielding variety with summer ripening. Pear trees This variety is considered short and even dwarf. They tolerate frosts down to –25°C and are resistant to diseases. The fruits ripen juicy, sweet with a slight sour accent and white, fine-grained, delicately flavored pulp. Pears are picked while still green, but after ripening they acquire a green-yellow hue with a slight blush. Fruits that have reached maturity do not fall off.


Entry into fruiting: 2-3 years. Harvest - mid-August.

2. Veles

Frost-resistant variety of pears. The tree is medium-sized, with a spreading crown. The fruits are symmetrical with a smooth surface, greenish-yellow with an orange tint. The pulp is cream-colored, semi-oily, juicy, sweet and sour. These pears are great for fresh consumption.


Entry into fruiting: 5-7 years. Harvest - mid-September.

3. Duchess Summer (Williams)

High-yielding dessert variety of pears. The fruits are fragrant, juicy, sweet, classic pear-shaped, light green when picked, turning yellow during ripening. Suitable for drying and canning. The pulp is white or creamy, juicy, wine-sweet with a nutmeg aroma. This variety also has disadvantages. Pear trees do not tolerate frost and drought well. Plants require pollinating neighbors, for example, pears of the Forest Beauty or Klapp's Favorite varieties.


Entry into fruiting: 5-6 years. Harvest - end of August.

4. Clapp's Favorite

Summer high-yielding variety pears In the southern regions, the fruits are yellow with a reddish blush and ripen at the end of July. The skin of a ripe fruit is smooth, the flesh is white, tender, juicy, aromatic, sweet with a sour aftertaste. When ripe, the fruits quickly fall off and are not stored for long. This is a self-sterile variety, but in the vicinity of Duchess Summer it will be able to fully “realize” its potential.


Entry into fruiting: in the 7th year. Harvest - early August.

5. Muscovite

A productive variety, excellent for growing in the middle zone. The trees are medium-sized, winter-hardy, but are afraid of drought, which causes a decrease in yield and the loss of pears. The fruits are wide, yellow-green in color, often with abundant rustiness. The pulp is white or creamy, coarse-grained, juicy, melting.


Entry into fruiting: 6-7 years. Harvest - mid-September.

6. Olivier de Serres

Winter variety of pears. The fruits look like a flattened ball with tubercles. The appearance is not very presentable, but the taste is simply excellent. The pulp is sweet with a hint of almond, very juicy, but at the same time quite dense. The fruits are ideal for fresh consumption and for storage, transportation, and preservation.


Entry into fruiting: 6-7 years. Harvest - early October.

7. Just Maria

High yielding winter-hardy variety pears The tree is medium-sized. The fruits are pear-shaped, green-yellow in color with a slight pink blush. The skin is thin and dry, the flesh is yellowish-white, oily, fine-grained, sweet and sour with a faint aroma, very tasty. The variety is resistant to a range of diseases.


Entry into fruiting: 3 years. Harvest - October.

1. How to buy high-quality apple and pear seedlings?

Buying seedlings is a very responsible matter, because you are purchasing a plant for decades. Perhaps its harvest will delight more than one generation of your family.

When choosing seedlings, there is no need to rush, just as you should not purchase them at spontaneous markets or from private sellers. They can easily slip you a plant of a completely different variety than the one you would like to buy, replace the seedlings by passing off the poplar as an apple or pear tree that is very similar to it, and it is extremely difficult to return or replace low-quality planting material on the market.

It is best to purchase seedlings from a specialized nursery. Perhaps the prices there will be higher than those of private sellers, but the risk of buying wild game instead of a varietal plant is minimized. So, when to buy and plant?

Some gardeners claim that it is better to plant apple and pear trees in the fall, others - in the spring. I will describe the advantages and disadvantages of planting depending on the season, and you decide which one to prefer.

Autumn planting

1) Big choice seedlings in nurseries: at this time they are dug up en masse, and they are all fresh. Even if the seedling’s root system is slightly dry at this time, it’s not scary, because it simply won’t have time to dry out. The choice of varieties is also very wide - you can easily choose the one you need.

2) If you plant in the fall, there is a lot of moisture in the soil after the rainy season. In addition, these crops have sufficient winter hardiness, so even if planted late, they do not freeze. A gardener also has more free time in the fall, unlike in the spring, when he has a lot to do.

3) To the disadvantages autumn planting can be attributed to the rather high prices for seedlings, and the need for them winter storage- if you do not have the opportunity to plant plants right away.

Spring planting

1) In spring, especially towards the end, prices for seedlings fall. But at the same time, the “remains” of slow-selling varieties are most often sold off. In addition, the quality of seedlings decreases.

2) Spring is a fleeting and troublesome period of the year. You may simply not have time to plant the seedlings on the site in time, before the buds open, and in this case there is a high probability that they will not take root.

How to distinguish a one-year-old seedling from a two-year-old one?

Apple tree. Both annual and biennial seedlings are suitable for planting. The price of the latter is much higher, but this does not mean that they are much better. One-year-olds take root much faster, so this overpayment is not always appropriate.
It is very simple to distinguish a one-year-old apple tree seedling from a two-year-old - one-year-old has no branches, it is just a rod a little more than 1 m long with roots at the base, but a two-year-old seedling should have at least 2-3 branches directed in different directions and extending from the trunk under angle from 45°.

Pear. It is better to give preference to annual planting material. The root system of biennial pear plants is quite powerful, and it is very difficult to dig it up without damaging it.

Even a one-year-old pear seedling can have branches, so distinguishing a one-year-old from a two-year-old is a little more difficult. If the seedling is unbranched, then it is definitely a one-year-old plant. Usually its height is about 120 cm, the stem diameter is about 1 cm. A branched annual has 1-2 shoots no more than 12 cm long, the stem diameter in this case is slightly more than 1 cm.
A two-year-old can have 2-3 shoots at least 20 cm long, and the stem diameter is about one and a half centimeters or a little more.
The branched annual has a standard ( Bottom part trunk from the roots to the first branches) reaches 45-55 cm, in a two-year-old it will be 2-5 cm higher.

Inspection of a seedling: what should you pay attention to?

1) Carefully inspect the root system and above-ground parts. There should be no damage or growths on them. At the top of the seedling's head, the bark of the seedling can be slightly peeled off with a fingernail; underneath, the color of the tissue should be green, this means that the seedling is healthy and not dried out. The roots must be moist, but not wet. If they are over-watered, they may rot.
To check if everything is in order, you can lightly pull the root; the healthy one will not come off.

Check the roots for elasticity - small, pencil-thick, they should bend well, but not break. The number of roots may vary, but the seedling must have a clearly defined main root (much thicker) and several additional ones 35-40 cm long.

2) There is a lot of debate about whether it is possible to buy seedlings with leaves. My opinion is that this is not worth doing. Moreover, in accordance with GOST for seedlings, there should be no leaves on them. In a nursery that respects itself and its clients, seedlings are scrubbed (all leaves are removed) even before digging. After all, leaves evaporate moisture, and therefore can dry out the plant.
On the market, seedlings are almost always sold with leaves to prove that this is exactly the variety and species that are declared. For a doubtful buyer, this is a plus, but in this case you need to carefully examine the condition of the root system. The roots of the plant should be soaked in mash (a mixture of soil and clay) and well packed.

Beginner gardeners, when purchasing a seedling, must find out:
> whether the variety is zoned in a given zone, whether it meets its conditions (drought resistance, winter hardiness, etc.).
> main characteristics of the variety - time of fruit ripening, flowering period (to select pollinating varieties), taste of the fruit, suitability for storage.

How to preserve seedlings before planting?
Plants are best preserved when buried. If there is little time before planting, then all you need to do is dig a hole the size of the roots, lay the seedling horizontally on the soil so that the roots are in the hole, sprinkle them with soil, compact it a little and water (1-2 buckets of water ).


If there are several months before planting, then the above-ground part of the seedling should be covered with burlap, and a mouse control agent should be sprinkled around the planting area. You can additionally insulate the root system by digging a deeper hole or throwing more soil on the roots, and in winter - snow. Try to bury seedlings that you plan to save until spring in those places where the snow melts first.

Rules for planting apple and pear trees

As a rule, fruit trees grow poorly in heavy clay soil and often get sick. But what to do if the land on the site is exactly like this? Do you really have to give up planting altogether if the soil is unsuitable? Not at all. Even on heavy clay soil you can harvest a good harvest of apples and pears. To do this, follow the rules described below.

1. Make the planting hole wide and shallow
The optimal pit size when planting a seedling in clay soil is 0.8-1×0.5 m. To prevent penetration to the roots young plant groundwater, create a so-called “clay castle”. The essence of this method is that the bottom of the pit is well compacted with feet or using a small roller, and the side walls are coated with raw clay (it can be taken directly from landing pit) layer 2-3 cm.

Then the pit is left for a while to allow the clay to dry. If the clay coating begins to crack as it dries, wipe the walls of the pit with a wet rag or spray them with water from a spray bottle.

2. Do not cover the seedling with soil from the hole.
Clay soil has very little humus, so it cannot be called fertile. If you want to harvest a good harvest in the future, then the planting hole should be filled with a nutrient substrate of approximately the following composition:

> 3-4 buckets of humus, compost or black soil;
> 2-3 buckets of peat;
> 2-3 buckets river sand;
> 2-3 cups of sifted ash;
> 1 glass of superphosphate.

3. Make drainage at the bottom of the hole
Drainage - necessary condition when planting fruit trees. To prevent rain and irrigation water from stagnating, add a 10-15 cm layer of drainage to the bottom of the planting hole. This can be crushed stone with a fraction of 20-40 mm, river pebbles, Sand and gravel, broken brick.

4. When planting a seedling, follow the procedure
If the hole is ready, you can proceed directly to planting the fruit tree in clay soil. First, pour half of the previously prepared mixture into the hole in a heap. nutrient substrate. Drive a peg into the center of the resulting mound (thick as an average pole and 1.8-2.2 m high). Then straighten the roots of the seedling and distribute them evenly along the sides of the mound.


Cover the seedling with the remaining soil, shaking it periodically and watering it a little so that voids do not form between the roots. When the hole is filled, compact the soil with your feet, pointing the toes of your shoes towards the tree trunk. And then water the young tree generously.

5. Build a groove to drain excess water
After irrigation water absorbed, make a simple drainage system that will promptly drain water from the tree in the event of heavy rains or massive melting of snow. To do this around the perimeter trunk circle Dig a shallow hole and fill it with sand or small stones.

How to water apple trees correctly?

The apple tree is planted so that root collar was 2-4 cm above the soil surface and was covered with a soil mound. This will ensure that water flows when watering to the outer edge of the tree crown. Stagnation of water in the area of ​​the root collar leads to its rotting, disease and death of the plant.


After watering, be sure to loosen and mulch the soil in the tree trunk circles. Loosening is necessary to aerate the zone of suction roots and root hairs. Mulching reduces water evaporation and prevents the formation of soil crust.

Materials that increase soil acidity should not be used for mulching apple trees ( pine sawdust). The mulch must be scattered at a distance of 10-15 cm from the tree trunk. Otherwise, decomposing plant debris will lead to fungal diseases of the tree trunk and root collar.

If on a flat area furrows and rollers are often leveled during loosening, then on slopes to retain moisture around the trunk, permanent holes, rollers, and bowls are made along the diameter of the crown. Their purpose is to hold water and direct it to the root zone.

Methods for watering an apple tree

Watering apple trees can be done by surface, subsoil, drip or sprinkling methods.

Surface watering carried out along furrows and special ditches in the rows of the garden using a hose. Water around the circumference of the crown, not the tree trunk. To do this, mentally lower a straight line from the longest side branches to the ground, draw a circle. This will be the area where small suction roots are located. Dig an irrigation ditch in a circle 10-12 cm deep or 1/3 of a spade bayonet, being careful not to damage the roots. Pour water into the furrow gradually until intense absorption stops.

Sprinkler irrigation carried out using fan, impulse, pistol and other types of sprinklers. Proper sprinkling is shallow, uniform, and scattered. The soil should get wet to a depth of 60-80 cm. Shallow watering (5-15 cm) will only worsen the situation of the crop, especially in hot weather.


It is best to carry out drip irrigation . In this case, water is constantly delivered directly to the root system of the tree.

You can combine watering with liquid fertilizing. In hot and dry weather, sprinkling can be added to drip irrigation to create a humid microclimate in garden plantings. See him off better in the morning or in the evening.

Depending on the age of the tree watering rates change. For the first 1-5 years of life, seedlings need relatively little watering, which is carried out more often than adult trees. For one time you need:
* annual trees - 2-3 buckets of water per 1 sq.m of trunk circle;
* biennial trees – 4-5 buckets of water;
* 3-5 year old apple trees - at least 5-8 buckets of water;
* mature apple trees that have begun to bear fruit (6-10 years old) - up to 60-100 l/sq.m of tree trunk area or until the soil is wet to a depth of 60-80 cm.

When to water apple trees?
The first spring watering is carried out before the buds open. When warm and dry weather sets in, seedlings and young trees up to five years of age are watered once a week in any way, but in sufficient quantities. For mature trees, the second watering is recommended after flowering during the phase of mass fruit set.

If the weather is hot, dry, then additional watering is carried out during the fruit growth phase. Lack of moisture during this period can lead to crushing and falling of some fruits.

The last watering during the active growing season is carried out in the mass ripening phase or 2-3 weeks before harvesting. Watering during fruit harvesting or immediately after it is not necessary. Moisture can cause the growth of young shoots and their freezing in winter frosts, which weakens and sometimes destroys the tree.

If necessary (dry, hot, long autumn), a fourth preventive watering is carried out in October. Its main purpose is to protect the wood from drying out and freezing in the winter cold.

* * *
As you can see, everything is not so complicated. It only takes a little effort to orchard made you happy for many years.

Popular wisdom says that it is impossible to grow good wood from a bad seedling. Therefore, when choosing and purchasing seedlings for our plant, we must remember this. In this article, we will try to give some tips on how to choose seedlings: apple trees, pears, cherries.

But it is recommended to plant peach seedlings only at one year of age. This is explained by the fact that older trees lose most of their fibrous roots when they are dug up. And the “health” of any plant largely depends on the condition and viability of its underground part - the root system.

It must be remembered that the loss of a tree's root system must be compensated by cutting off its above-ground part. In this way, we promote the further growth of the tree. This rule must be followed when replanting trees. Considering that when digging up an adult tree, many fibrous roots are lost and, as a result, many of its branches are cut off. When transplanted, such a tree will lose a lot of energy and will be more susceptible to disease. Naturally, in this case the fruitfulness of the tree will be quite low.

For quality fruit seedlings characterized by a developed root system - skeletal and overgrowing roots without cancerous growths, which must have a length of at least 35-40 cm. The above-ground part of the seedling must have at least three well-developed lateral branches. The seedling trunk itself must be smooth, without mechanical damage. The thickness of the plant near the root collar should be at least 15 mm.

Some gardeners prefer to choose wildly growing seedlings that have thick trunks and long branches that have not completed their growth. Or they simply choose seedlings with a trunk height of more than 1.5 m and without branches. In this case, it is necessary to remember that when choosing a low-quality planting material, in the future our trees will often get sick. And we will not be able to form the necessary crown, which can significantly affect not only the shape of the tree, but also its productivity.

The height of the future tree directly depends on the height of the seedling trunk. A seedling with a taller trunk will grow more tall tree. And therefore they allocate optimal height standard for each species of fruit tree. For example, for apple trees and pears it should be 70-90 cm, for cherries - 50-70 cm, for medium-sized cherries - up to 60 cm, for low-growing cherries - 40 cm, for apricots - 50-70 cm, for peach - 50-60cm.

Most the best option is to purchase seedlings that were dug up on the same day and plant them immediately. But this is not always possible. And therefore experienced gardeners It is recommended that the roots of seedlings be immersed in a solution prepared from humus and clay. So that the seedling can survive after it has been dug up, to replenish lost moisture, it is placed in water with a temperature of about 18 degrees Celsius. You can add a few tablespoons of bee honey to the water. In this way, the seedling is preserved for 8 hours.

Video: How to choose seedlings

Pear– one of the most delicious and favorite fruits, whose delicate taste is well known to each of us since childhood. The fruit first came to our country back in the 15th century and since then has enjoyed the constant love of children and adults.

In addition to excellent taste, pear can be considered a real storehouse of vitamins, minerals and trace elements. Regular consumption of pears will allow you to:

• normalize metabolism;
• increase protective functions body;
• accelerate tissue healing.

Pears contain an incredible amount of:

• fiber;
• fructose;
• glucose and sucrose;
• vitamins C and P;
• citric acid

...and many other substances essential for health.

Of course, all these useful material can only be found in those pears that were grown without the use of prohibited fertilizers and were delivered to the store in compliance with all safety standards.

How not to make a mistake with your choice and buy a really tasty and healthy fruit?

Like many other fruits, pears are removed from the tree when unripe. During transportation, the pear ripens on its own, which is why its taste does not suffer at all, but on the contrary, it becomes much more intense. It is recommended to purchase firm and unripe pears. In a few days they will be able to ripen at your home, and at this time you can prepare more than one delicious dish from the unripe and hard fruits.

• Color. It can hardly fully characterize its quality. The fact is that different varieties of pears (and there are more than a thousand of them in the world) have quite different colors. But the presence of black dots on the fruit may be a signal that it is better to refrain from purchasing such fruit.
• Smell. Can be an excellent indicator of its quality. A ripe, delicious pear exudes a delicious, subtle aroma and literally begs to be put into your mouth.
• Integrity. Many suppliers wrap each pear separately to minimize mechanical damage during transportation. When buying, you should not be lazy and touch each fruit yourself, because many careless sellers, in pursuit of profit, sin by mixing with selected fruits absolutely illiquid goods, which should cost incomparably less, or even be completely disposed of.
• Surface of the fruit. Imported pears brought from afar can be distinguished by their excessive shine and slightly greasy surface to the touch. Foreign suppliers coat fruits with a special composition so that they do not spoil during a long journey. Before eating, such fruits should be thoroughly washed, although some people prefer to simply peel off the skin of the fruit and not use it for food.
• Stalk condition. In a high-quality and ripe pear, the stalk does not yet have time to dry completely and appears elastic and soft to the touch. It is better to prefer such a pear to one whose stem has already become dry and brittle.

To better navigate the world of fragrant and juicy pears, you should imagine what varieties of pears are the most delicious and popular, and how to distinguish them in the store:

• Duchess. A variety of pears native to France. The color of the fruits of this variety is bright yellow, and the sides of the fruit are pinkish. The pear has wide sides, is very juicy and tasty. The variety is very popular, but it deteriorates quite quickly, so you should be especially careful when purchasing. After harvesting, such a pear can be stored for no more than a week.
• Chinese pear. The shape resembles an apple. The color of the fruit is pale yellow, and the taste of the fruit is crispy, not very sweet and somewhat harsh.
• Williams. This pear comes from England. This fruit can be distinguished by its yellow-green color with reddish sides. Pears of this variety are incredibly tender and juicy. Baby food manufacturers prefer to use this particular variety of pears for their products.
• Conference. This variety also came from England. The fruits have an oblong shape and a yellow-green peel, which, by the way, is quite tough, but incredibly healthy. This variety of pear is very juicy and tasty.
  How to properly store pears?

Of course, it is not enough to know how to choose pears correctly in the store; it is equally important to know how to store them correctly. Pears tend to spoil quite quickly, so for storing them it is best to find a cool place in the refrigerator or on the balcony. Unripe fruits are best stored at room temperature..

So that the delicate aroma of pears does not lose its attractiveness and does not mix with foreign odors, they should be stored separately. Remember that ripe pears can be stored for no more than three days. If any fruit is overripe and begins to spoil, it is best to immediately put it separately or eat it.

Choose the right pears and enjoy their amazing delicate taste and a unique aroma! Bon appetit!

Based on materials from the Foodinformer website

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Nice garden will delight its owner for many years.

But to get such a treasure, you first need to work hard.

At any stage you can make a mistake, which will bring all efforts to naught.

The “wrong” seedling may simply not take root. Taking an apple tree seedling yourself without a clear understanding of how to choose an apple tree seedling is too risky.

In this article we will tell you how to avoid these mistakes and successfully grow an apple tree that will delight you for many years.

This first step should not be underestimated. It is the choice of seedling that largely determines whether you will be able to grow a healthy tree.

Take this issue seriously:

• Find out which apple tree varieties suitable for your region. This is very important, because a young tree, unadapted to such a climate, can die long before it begins to bear fruit.
• It is best to contact your local gardening organization or nursery with this question. Their addresses can be found on the Internet.
• Pay attention to customer reviews. Choose a company responsibly.
• The most difficult stage of selection is practical. It all depends on knowledge and attentiveness.

Selection of seedlings in the nursery.

First of all, everything seedlings can be divided into three groups depending on the level of the rootstock, i.e. the stem and root system. When choosing one type or another, you need to take into account the characteristics of the site.

There are these types:

IMPORTANT! If the seedlings have thorns, do not buy it. Most likely they are passing off a wild apple tree as a varietal apple tree.

Contact of the root system with groundwater is extremely undesirable. Such an apple tree will be weak and sickly, its harvest will be extremely meager. When purchasing a seedling, do not forget about the importance of this factor.

The ideal age of a seedling is 1–2 years. The youth of a tree is a guarantee that it will take root better in a new place.

How visually determine the age of the seedling? annual plant It should not have developed branches; in a two-year-old, you can count 2-3 additional branches.

Inspect the root system. It must not be damaged. Healthy roots a little damp, but by no means rotten; they should be elastic, not brittle.

The state of the cortex also has great importance. Gently pick off the bark with your fingernail - the stem should be green.

Better do not buy trees that have leaves. They most likely will not take root.

How much do apple tree seedlings cost?

Saplings with an open root system are cheaper than those sold in a container. The cost of an apple tree seedling depends on the variety and quality of the tree, as well as specifically on the selling company. On average, focus on a price of about 300 rubles, although some nurseries may ask for 800 rubles.

Watch the training video on how to choose the right apple tree seedling:

How are apple tree seedlings grown?

Daring gardeners can try grow a seedling yourself. This is not so difficult, especially if you have at least basic knowledge of a school biology course. Let's look at the main methods.

Growing apple tree seedlings from seeds

Method one - . Even small children wonder whether an apple tree will grow from an accidentally dropped seed.

In reality, everything is not so simple. There have been cases where a seed grew beautiful tree with tasty fruits, but there is a possibility that a grown apple tree will not lose its “maternal” wild properties and all your efforts will be in vain.

But if difficulties and possible risks do not frighten you, follow our advice:

1. Rinse the mature brown seeds in running water to remove the substance that prevents it from germinating. The best thing place the seeds in water for 3 days.
2. Then place the seeds in the refrigerator (this process is called stratification). To do this, you need to prepare a bowl filled with slightly damp sand. The seeds should stay in the refrigerator for about two months. It is best to start stratification in early January..
3. The seeds should germinate in the refrigerator. They need to be planted in specially prepared boxes (drainage should be poured at the bottom and a nutrient mixture on top). The boxes should be placed on a well-lit windowsill.
4. It's easy to recognize a wild one still in the early stages: its leaves are bright green, and the shoots already have short spines. It's better not to waste your time on them. Or use the wildflower as a rootstock, to which the desired variety can be grafted.

From a cutting

Apple trees can also be propagated by cuttings.

How to make a seedling from an apple tree branch has been known for a long time. In order to grow a tree in this way, you need prepare the rootstock– choose a tree grown from a seed or (which is much better) a wild one.

Preparing cuttings for rootstock.

You need to graft a cutting from the tree you want to the roots of such a tree. It is very important to correctly combine the rootstock and cuttings.

For wild dwarf tree would be better suited a cutting of a columnar apple tree, and an apple tree grown from a seed will take well to a cutting of an ordinary tall tree.

The stalk must be no older than one year. We will tell you in detail how to make a seedling from an apple tree below.

How to grow apple tree seedlings from a branch

Another way is bury a branch in the ground.

In autumn, the tree is planted at an angle so that the young shoots touch the ground. In spring, the branches are attached to the bud with staples. During the summer they need to be earthed up, and in the fall ready-made seedlings are obtained.

Air layering or how to get seedlings from an old apple tree

Provide soil with a place where the new root system will form.

It is more difficult to graft a seedling from a branch, so it is often more advisable to use the air layering method.

For the twig to begin to take root, you need to surround her wet soil. To begin, select a twig that will become a seedling - healthy, without branches, and as thick as a regular pencil.

When the snow melts, this branch needs put on a polyethylene sleeve. It is advisable to attach it with electrical tape. It will remain on the apple tree until steadily warm weather arrives. Then the sleeve is removed.

Need to find the boundary between an adult branch and new growth– from this point about 10 cm is retreated and a circular incision of about 1 cm is made, small incisions are also made to the left and right of it. All buds above the incisions must be removed.

Then a sleeve with a container is put on the branch. In the first three days in a container (you can use trimmed plastic bottle) place root growth stimulating liquid, then specially prepared soil, which must be kept moist at all times.

You can try any of these methods yourself at home. It is advisable to additionally consult with competent specialists.

Look detailed video on how to get a seedling from an apple tree using the air layering method:

You can take a seedling from an apple tree yourself. You don’t have to be an experienced gardener to do this.

If you want to receive varietal apple tree, then you can use the parent shoot, which sometimes just needs to be dug in correctly.

The procedure is carried out in the spring. You can use young shoots no more than 1 year old.

They are placed in a hole about 10 cm deep. The branch is attached to a peg. Thus, a shoot of 30–40 cm should remain above the ground. It also needs to rid the nearest area of ​​weeds.

To be sure, root several branches in this way. In a year, some of them will take root. In the fall, the seedlings will be ready for transplanting.

IMPORTANT! Remember that large-fruited apple trees root worse in this way than other varieties.

Pruning an apple tree seedling

Do not forget that this is a rather complex process that must be carried out strictly according to agrotechnical instructions.

The seedling needs to be pruned when it is dormant.

In warm climates perfect time There will be an autumn-winter period, in a moderate one - the end of winter. Anyway, Pruning cannot be carried out at temperatures below -10°C.

The first pruning takes place in the first year after planting. Trimming in this early age will provide the laying of future skeletal branches.

One-year-old seedling needs to be removed side shoots located up to 70 cm from the ground level. Above this point, only those branches that form an acute angle with the trunk are removed. If the angle formed by the branch with the trunk is close to 90°, the branch is cut to the fifth bud.

Two-year-old seedling looks almost like mature tree. How to prune such apple tree seedlings? In this case, the following goal is pursued - to leave from 3 to 5 of the strongest shoots, forming a wide angle with the trunk.

In the future they will become the main branches of the tree. It is necessary to form and center conductor. It is best to do this from the most developed bud, which is located about 3 buds higher than the others. The lower branches should be longer than the upper ones. So wood.

Next 3–5 years It is better not to touch the apple tree, let it develop on its own.

How to distinguish a pear seedling from an apple tree?

Distinguish different types Trees at such a young age are sometimes difficult even for experienced gardeners.

This is almost impossible before the leaves appear.– the seller at the market could experiment with vaccinations. Let us remind you general rules, which will allow you not to become a victim of deception and determine how to choose an apple tree:

1. Annual apple trees have dark red-brown shoots, while pears have yellowish-green shoots.
2. The shoots of apple trees have slight pubescence; pears usually do not have this feature.
3. The shoots of pears have more pronounced geniculation.
4. The buds of apple trees are wide and large. They fit tightly to the shoot. Pear buds are pointed and small, and do not fit tightly to the shoot.
5. The buds of apple trees swell and bloom later than those of pear trees.
6. The root system of apple trees is more branched, while that of pears is stem-like.

There is no need to know about the characteristics of pear and apple tree leaves when purchasing a seedling. If the seedling already has leaves, you should not buy it. It is unlikely to take root successfully, and your efforts will be in vain.

How to grow an apple tree from a seedling?

First to any gardener you need to choose the time to plant the apple tree.

This may be spring or autumn - depending on the specific circumstances and climatic conditions your region.

In any case, tree care begins in the spring.

Before planting you need to prepare the soil. This means that the soil needs to be loosened well, rid of weeds, fertilized (depending on the time of year) and dug up again.

The planting hole will be a house for the seedling, it will reliably nourish it.

Choose your location responsibly. This should be a well-lit place, preferably protected from the wind.

IMPORTANT! Preparation of the planting pit should begin 2 months before the actual planting.

The seedling is still too vulnerable. Our task is to protect it from negative weather conditions. The tree needs to be secured to a stake. It will be possible to remove it 2 years after planting. This must be done with extreme caution so as not to damage the root system.

In the first week after planting, regular watering is very important, which will not only help saturate the tree nutrients, but also compact the soil. Gradually watering intervals needs to be reduced, but in hot weather it is impossible to spare water for a young tree.

A tree trunk area is a must mulch. To do this, use compost, chicken manure, vermicompost and rotted manure; put a small layer of straw on top of this layer.

Watch the video on how to mulch trees:

Necessarily One-year and two-year apple trees need to be pruned to form its skeletal branches.

In summer, all care consists of regular watering and protecting the tree from pests. To avoid using chemicals, try attract birds to the garden.

It's easy to do - Arrange feeders on tree branches. This will let the birds know that there is a tasty treat waiting for them in your garden.

If pests appear, you can collect them by hand from a young tree. In hot weather, do not water the tree during the day to avoid burns.

To allow air to flow to the root system, make punctures 30 cm deep at a distance of 60 cm from the trunk.

Preparing apple tree seedlings for winter.

• A young apple tree needs to be hilled to a height of 10–20 cm;
• The area near the trunk must be mulched with humus or peat;
• You can apply nitrogen or potassium fertilizers. The lack of these substances will affect the quality of future fruits, so it is best to use complex fertilizers;
• The trunk of the apple tree must be whitened with a chalk solution;
• To avoid breaking the weak young tree, it can be done in advance.

An apple tree seedling is drying up, how to save it?

Before you can solve a problem, you need to understand it reason, due to which the apple tree may begin to dry out. Then you can understand how to save a dried apple tree seedling.

Growing too much can prevent a seedling from developing. close trees or bushes. In this case, you can transplant the tree to the required distance.

The problem can also be caused by lying too close groundwater . Excess water it simply displaces excess air from the soil, which is so necessary for the young root system. The problem can also be solved by replanting or regularly loosening the soil.

If groundwater is disturbing more than just one apple tree, you can dig drainage ditches which will help get rid of excess water.

IMPORTANT! Pledge successful growth apple trees provide air access to the root system, so loosen the soil regularly. Do not plant an apple tree in a sandy or clay bud.

Gardening is not only difficult, but also very interesting. To grow from a seedling good apple tree, you need to show both intelligence and care.

• Remember the most important stage is the choice of seedling.
• It is better to buy them from professional breeders. At a spontaneous market, you can unknowingly purchase another tree (an apple tree can easily be confused with a pear tree before the leaves appear).
• In the first year, do not overuse fertilizers. The tree only needs watering and mulching.
• Do not forget to rid the young apple tree of weeds. In the autumn period you can add.
• A very important procedure is tree pruning. Remember to do this to form the “skeleton” of the apple tree.
• Pests can negatively affect the development of apple trees. However, try not to poison them in the early years chemicals. Attract to this matter of birds.

Attract birds for natural pest control.

• Be responsible where you plant. Groundwater lying too close and trees and shrubs growing nearby can destroy an apple tree.
• Provide sufficient air access to the root system. She really needs him.

A responsible approach to business will ensure your success.

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