Making paving slabs with your own hands: analysis of the process from mixing to drying. A guide to making paving slabs at home Do-it-yourself multi-colored paving slabs

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Paving slabs - simple and reliable way arrange garden path, path, driveway at the dacha or lay out a platform in the courtyard of a private house. Depending on the place of application to tile covering tracks are presented different requirements, regarding strength and installation method.

One of the factors that determines the longevity of a tile walkway is the installation solution. However, many people prefer to make paving slabs with their own hands.

Vibro-pressed or vibro-cast tiles

From a technology point of view industrial production, tiles can be made in two ways:

Vibro-cast paving slabs(cheaper, used in private construction).

Manufacturing technology: concrete solution is poured into molds that are placed on a vibrating surface. During vibration, the solution evenly fills the mold and air bubbles come out of it. Afterwards, the forms are placed on drying racks. After 2-3 days, the tiles are removed and dried.

Vibropressed paving slabs(more resistant, intended for use in places with intense load).

The production technology is similar, but the solution is additionally pressed with a press (vibropress). The result is a more compacted mixture and, accordingly, a stronger material structure. The tiles are dried in special chambers.

You can only make vibro-cast tiles for paths and paths yourself. Let us immediately focus your attention - homemade paving slabs are not intended for laying in areas of heavy traffic, but will become indispensable for forming garden paths in the country.

Which paving slabs are better – vibro-cast or vibro-pressed?

According to reviews on the forums, 80% of users agree that the best paving slabs are those that are made in a factory using vibrocompression. It is more expensive (~20%), but more durable. The point is that the resulting concrete is more dense and has fewer pores; therefore, the tiles absorb little water, do not crumble and are resistant to abrasion.

But pressed tiles have a limited selection of colors and shapes, while cast tiles, on the contrary, are easy to manufacture, which means they are more affordable, plus, you can cast almost any shape, and have a large selection of shades.

The tiles are subject to the greatest damage in winter, when water that gets inside the concrete freezes and expands. Of course, you can protect vibrocast tiles hydrophobic compounds, but this will not make it eternal; the service life is shorter than that of a pressed one. However, for private use on a limited budget, you can get by with homemade paving slabs.

How to distinguish vibro-cast tiles from vibro-pressed ones?

Visually. The first will have a heterogeneous smooth structure, the second will have a homogeneous, rough structure. Paradoxically, the vibration-cast one is more beautiful in appearance (at the time of sale) - bright, smooth (examples in the photo). The difference manifests itself during operation.

Advantages of paving slabs

Why did paving slabs become popular, leaving asphalt, concrete and embankment far behind? Because paving slabs for paths in the country have a number of advantages over other types of coating:

– moisture and vapor permeability of the coating. Under the path made of tiles, natural microflora is preserved, and moisture evaporation occurs as when loosening the soil, i.e. more uniform. This does not interfere with the growth of the roots of shrubs and trees, and plants growing along the garden path last longer without watering;

– aesthetics. Thanks to various forms and colors of tiles can be made beautiful drawing(lay out an ornament, pattern) on the country path;

– maintainability and the ability to replace, move concrete tiles if necessary;

- longevity. Cooked and
, will be in operation for 50 years;

– the ability to create paths of complex configurations with your own hands.

There are two ways to obtain tiles for sidewalks and paths.

First, buy ready-made paving slabs. Less hassle, faster, simpler and not much more expensive. But no one is immune from counterfeiting in this branch of production, and manufacturing paving slabs with your own hands gives you confidence in its quality.

Secondly, do it yourself. We will consider this method in detail, starting with the material and ending with unmolding.

Master class on making paving slabs

Material for making paving slabs

You can’t make a quality product from just anything. Therefore, in the listing process we will focus on the properties of the material and the requirements for them.

1. Cement

Determines the quality of the tile. What cement should I use for paving slabs? To make a solution you need cement high brand(M400 is a minimum, ideally M500). The grade of cement indicates its compressive strength. Accordingly, the higher the grade of cement, the stronger the concrete solution will be, which is the basis for the recipe for the production of paving slabs. The use of M-500 cement will give the tiles such properties as frost resistance, strength and water resistance.

Only fresh cement is suitable for making tiles (during a month of storage, cement loses 5% of its properties). You can check the quality of cement by squeezing a handful of powder in your fist. If it leaks through your fingers, the material is fresh; if it clumps into a lump, it’s better not to buy it.

Note. You should not try to save money by purchasing the M 300 brand, because... in this case, cement consumption will increase significantly.

2. Filler for cement (concrete) mortar

large filler. Screenings, small crushed stone, slag or pebbles are used as filler. They must be clean to work.

fine filler. This includes sand of fraction 0.4-0.6 mm. It is important that it does not contain impurities and clay.

3. Water

For solution used drinking water room temperature.

Sold in powder or ready-mixed form. Why do you need a plasticizer? Designed to impart additional properties to the solution, reduce the consumption of cement and water, increase the density of concrete, and facilitate the process of mixing the solution.

Which plasticizer is better for paving slabs?

The following received good reviews: Westplast, PLASTIMIX F, POLIPLAST SP-1, Master Silk. But the best (popular among users) is the additive Superplasticizer S-3.

Adding a plasticizer to the concrete solution guarantees low abrasion of the tiles and their moisture and frost resistance.

5. Dye for paving slabs (pigment)

Paint allows you to create tiles different colors. It is important that the coloring pigments are lightfast. Considering the high price of dyes (from 1,500 to 8,600 thousand rubles), two-color paving slabs are in demand. Dye is added to the top layer, the bottom remains gray.

Material prepared for the website www.site

6. Fiber fiber (reinforcing fiber)

Fiber for concrete is needed to increase the strength of the tiles. Polypropylene fiber is used to reinforce concrete (fibers up to 20 mm long and 10-50 microns in diameter).

For example, polypropylene fiber Micronix 12mm. (RUB 165.00/kg), chopped glass fiber (RUB 145.00/kg) or basalt fiber MicronixBazalt 12mm (RUB 98.00/kg) (in order in the picture).

Note. The length of the fiber should not exceed the diameter of the largest aggregate in the concrete solution.

A well-greased mold will make it easier to remove the tiles.

You can buy a special lubricant for molds, for example, Lirossin (Ukraine, 210 rubles/5 l.). This is a concentrate that is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Or Emulsol (Russia, 175 and 40 kg barrel, sold on tap for 38 rubles/l).

How to lubricate molds for paving slabs at home?

Users advise not to spend money on industrial lubricant, but to use analogues (substitutes):

motor oil (can be used);

soap solution. The cheapest solution of water and detergent, which helps to quickly remove tiles from the mold;

sunflower (vegetable) oil.

Some craftsmen use a saline solution, but it leaves salt stains on the tiles, and silicone and plastic molds quickly become unusable. Others suggest covering the mold with two layers of varnish. This coating will ensure easy sliding of the tiles. But this method is only applicable for plastic molds, plus, the varnish quickly deforms, which will affect the quality of the sides and front surface of the tile.

Tools and equipment for making paving slabs

Depends on the quantity of tiles being produced.

The simplest solution is to use an old washing machine switched on to spin mode. This homemade vibrating table for paving slabs allows you to get a perfectly compacted (compacted) mixture for making road slabs.

3. Rack for drying paving slabs (dryer). Any place where the tiles will dry in the mold for 2-3 days, without the mold for another week, and then finally dry for another month.

4. Bucket, basin or suitable container . Serves to heat the mold with tiles and facilitate the process of removing the tiles from the mold.

5. Molds for making paving slabs. There are no problems with the forms at all due to their diversity (can be ordered in the online store). To speed up the process, it is better to immediately purchase a dozen forms.

Types of tile molds

. They are used for the manufacture of tiles of complex shapes with different structural surfaces. The elasticity of the material (silicone) is both a plus and a minus of the form. The advantage is that they reproduce the drawing in the smallest detail. Disadvantage - the form expands (swells) from the concrete and changes its shape, which affects the geometry of the product (deformation). One form is designed (withstands) 50 cycles.

Used to make a simple pattern. Advantages of a plastic mold: flexibility, strength and durability. The estimated service life of the molds is 800 cycles.

Polyurethane holds its shape better than silicone, but is more expensive. The polyurethane mold is enough for 100 cycles.

How to make molds for paving slabs with your own hands

Several options for making molds from improvised materials:

Wooden forms can be knocked together from scraps of plywood or boards, and fastened together with metal corners.

It will not be possible to make a mold from wood with complex geometry. The wooden mold can be made in the form of a triangle, square, rhombus, rectangle or hexagon.

Note. When planning to make a mold for paving slabs, keep in mind that its internal dimensions are taken into account.

Plastic molds can be made from strips cut from utility boxes. It is difficult, but quite possible, to make a complex polygonal shape, the diagram of which is given below.

Note. In this homemade form, tiles are cast directly at the place of installation.

Forms from food containers (bowls, trays, plastic containers)

Make it yourself from polymer (but this is already from the category of private entrepreneurship, all that remains is to register an individual entrepreneur and open your own business - a business for the production of paving slabs on an industrial scale).

Advice. Choosing curly shape, pay attention to the presence of halves and parts (component elements, fragments) in order to avoid unnecessary cutting of the tiles when laying.

When studying the question of how to make paving slabs with your own hands, it is important to pay attention to how to choose the right proportions and how to mix the solution for laying.

Mortar for paving slabs - proportions, composition, preparation

To begin with, we will provide a ready-made recipe for a solution for paving slabs at given thickness at 60 mm. And then we’ll tell you how to mix the components correctly.

The composition of the solution for paving slabs is given in the table

Components (additives)	Proportions for manufacturing in%	For 1 sq.m. tiles	For 1 cubic meter solution
Cement M 500	21 %	30 kg	500 kg
Screenings or fine crushed stone	23%	32 kg	540 kg
Sand	56%	75 kg	1300 kg
Plasticizer S-3	0.7% by weight of concrete	50 gr	1.9 liters
Dye	7% by weight of concrete	700 gr	10 kg
Fiber fiber in quantity per 1m3 of concrete	0.05% by weight of concrete	60 gr	0.7-1.0 kg
Water	5.5% by weight of concrete	8 liters	130 liters

From 1 cubic meter. solution can be made 16.5 sq. m. paving slabs, with a thickness of 60 mm.

To prepare good solution for paving slabs, you need to mix the components in a concrete mixer in a certain sequence, with a certain mixing mode.

1. Preparing the solution

The plasticizer is mixed with a small amount of water and poured into a concrete mixer. Only warm water is used for mixing, because... Additives do not dissolve in cold conditions. When stirring, you need to ensure that the plasticizer dissolves completely.

The dye is also mixed with hot (approximately 80 °C) water in a ratio of 1:3. You need to watch to coloring solution turned out homogeneous. The presence of lumps will result in the appearance of craters on the front surface of the tile.

Next, filler (crushed stone and sand) is added one by one, then cement. Periodically, water is added to the cement-sand mixture for more convenient mixing. The bulk of the water is supplied at the end of the batch.

Optimal mode (time) for mixing cement mortar

The mixture for paving slabs is ready when it adheres to the trowel in a dense mass without spreading. When pouring, the solution should easily fill the mold.

2. Preparing the mold

The surface of the mold is lubricated with the selected lubricant. During the process, you need to ensure that no stains from the lubricant form on the surface. The form should be slightly oily for better glide of the product over the surface.

Notes. Excessive lubrication causes depressions in the tiles. If it is insufficient, removal is difficult.

3. Manufacturing technology of paving slabs (molding)

At this stage, the solution is poured into molds. Moreover, if two-color tiles are made, then the mold is filled with gray concrete by 75%, and then filled with colored concrete. The break between fillings should not exceed 20 minutes. Otherwise, the layers of the solution will not adhere firmly to each other.

Filled forms need to be shaken and placed on a vibrating table. The duration of the mold's stay on the vibrating table is 5 minutes. An indicator of readiness is the appearance of white foam - this means that all air bubbles have been knocked out of the solution. Excessive vibration treatment (shaking the mold) can lead to stratification of the solution. The signal to stop vibrations is the settling of white foam.

Advice. When making two-color paving slabs, vibration must be carried out after pouring each layer. The second vibration lasts 2-3 minutes, and foam may not appear.

4. Drying paving slabs at home

Forms filled with solution are placed on racks for subsequent drying, which takes 2-3 days. The drying place should be protected from direct sunlight and well ventilated. To reduce the rate of evaporation of moisture from the solution, it is better to cover the molds with plastic wrap.

5. Unmolding paving slabs (removal from mold)

How to remove tiles from the mold?

To make the extraction process easier, you can lower the filled form for 5 seconds. into hot (about 60 °C) water. The heat causes the mold to expand and the tiles are removed without defects or problems.

The product should be knocked out on a soft base, for example, spread out an old blanket.

Please note that the removed tile holds its shape well, but the mortar has not yet hardened completely, so the composition will crumble and may crack or break.

The removed tiles are stored on the same drying racks for another week. Then it can be put on a pallet and finally dried for another month. During this period, the tile will gain the required strength.

How much does it cost to make paving slabs at home?

This is not an idle interest, but a rational approach that requires calculations, drawing up estimates to determine the budget and profitability.

Calculation of the cost of manufacturing paving slabs

Material	Price
Cement (M 500 Portland)	300-500 rub/bag 59 kg
Crushed granite fraction 3-10 mm (the larger the cheaper)	1,500-2,000 rub. per cube
Sand sifted	600 rub./m3
Plasticizer (S-3)	80 rub/l
Dye	from 1500 to 8600 rub/25 kg Cost depends on resistance to environmental influences
Fiber fiber	from 98 to 165 rub/kg
Mold release agent	from 0 to 100 rub/l
Shapes (price varies depending on shape, size and material)
- plastic	from virgin plastic: 69-200 rub/piece. (depending on size) 43-60 RUR/piece. made from recycled plastic: 43-60 rub/piece.
- silicone	120-150 rub/piece.
- polyurethane	200-370 rub/piece.
- simple “bricks”	from 30 rub/piece
- original	up to RUB 1,500/piece

The table shows approximate prices per unit of production. The total amount depends on the expense.

The price of ready-made paving slabs of a simple configuration starts from 200 rubles. per sq.m., textured from 450 rub. Multiply by the required square footage (area) and add delivery. Compare your results. On average, savings range from 10% (for local tiles) to 25% (for branded tiles). At the same time, it should be understood that each manufacturer, in a competitive environment, strives to reduce the cost of its products as much as possible. As a rule, this affects quality, which cannot always be determined immediately, but only after some time.

Defects in paving slabs

In favor of making paving slabs yourself, the following can be noted:

confidence in the quality of the product;

the ability to make tiles in between other tasks;

fascination of the process;

a beautiful result and pride in one’s own success.

IN Lately paving slabs are successfully replacing asphalt and concrete. Many people prefer to lay out garden paths, alleys and areas near their houses with it, as it looks more organic in the overall landscape.

In addition, the slab allows the surface it covers to “breathe”: the circulation of moisture and air is not disrupted, natural microflora is preserved in the soil, which does not interfere with the growth of trees and bushes planted along the path.

To create a coating of an exclusive design, they most often choose to produce paving slabs with their own hands, despite the rather labor-intensive process of their production.

A home-made stove is about 20% cheaper than a factory-made one. Besides You can make samples of any type at home non-standard shape and paint them in the colors of the desired shades.

An important advantage is the acquisition of skills in the manufacture of a popular product. Over time, this may well be useful for opening your own enterprise for the production of paving slabs.

If this experience is not transformed into a way of earning money, then the production process itself will certainly bring Aesthetic pleasure and pride in the work done.

The advantage is the confidence that they were used quality materials and in the right quantity, i.e. deception is excluded.

The disadvantage of homemade products is their less strength and durability. The fact is that in factory conditions this concrete product is most often made using the vibration compaction method: pressing with a special press is added to the usual technology. Therefore, the material is more dense. This coating can withstand heavy loads and can be installed in areas with heavy traffic.

A slab made at home (by vibration casting method) absorbs more moisture than a purchased one. Over time, especially in winter when exposed to frost, it can crack and crumble or simply wear off.

This coating is protected with hydrophobic solutions. This extends the life of the stove.

On the pages of our website you will also learn how it should happen. We have prepared step-by-step instructions for you.

Consumables and raw materials

For production you should stock up necessary equipment and tools. The main ones are a concrete mixer, and.

The solution contains three required ingredients: water, sand, cement. But for more quality slab A coarse filler, plasticizer, dye, and dispersant are added to the mixture. You also need mold lubrication.

Quantity calculation

To prepare a high-quality solution, you should adhere to the percentage of ingredients. Below is a table of components for making paving slabs 6 cm thick.

Step-by-step instruction

Your attention detailed instructions, how to make paving slabs with your own hands and what to do to avoid mistakes in work.

Composition of the mixture for the solution

The plasticizer is dissolved in a small amount warm water. You need to make sure there are no lumps.

The pigment for making colored paving slabs with your own hands should be diluted hot water(the proportions in the solution should be 1:3). The dye should dissolve completely.

These components are thoroughly mixed with sand, then crushed stone is added. Then everything is mixed with cement. A little water is added during the process. At the end the main amount of water is supplied.

The mixture is considered ready if it adheres tightly to the trowel without spreading around the edges.

How to prepare the form

Lubricant is applied to the inner walls, making sure that no stains from the substance remain there. To ensure that the mold is not too greasy, excess grease is carefully removed with a dry cloth.

If the surface is not greasy enough, it will be difficult to remove the tiles.

On our website you will also learn the basics, as well as how to choose the right material!

Features of laying wild stone in the yard with your own hands, and how to calculate the amount required material, we'll tell you.

We'll tell you everything about the process of paving paths with bricks: we have prepared detailed instructions for you.

Molding

The solution is poured into the molds. For two-color tiles, first lay a layer of colored and then gray concrete.

The forms are placed on a vibrating table, where they are shaken for about 5 minutes. Foam should appear on the surface, indicating the release of air bubbles.

Drying

Forms with concrete are stacked on flights or racks to dry for approximately 1-2 days. To prevent moisture from evaporating too quickly, they are covered with cellophane film.

The tile is carefully knocked out of the mold over something soft, such as a blanket. If the product is difficult to remove, then the mold with filling is lowered into a container with hot water (about 60 degrees), which will make removal easier.

After this, the tiles are left to dry for another month. Only then will it be suitable for use.

Important nuances in production, error prevention

If at some points the technology for the production of paving slabs was not followed, then Various errors may appear.

Paint is unevenly distributed. Most likely, it was poorly diluted or the product was overexposed on a vibrating table.
It is impossible to pull the tile out of the mold. The walls were not lubricated enough.
Bubbles or holes have formed. The tile was little vibrated and all the air did not escape from the mixture.
The tiles began to crumble. Indicates that the proportions are not respected or that the material is of poor quality.

In this video you will learn how to make paving slabs at home - simple technology DIY making:

Safety precautions when working

When working with cement, one of the most harmful factors is dust. That's why Before preparing the mixture, you should put on overalls: gloves, respirator or protective mask.

But it is also important to ensure that diluted dye or plasticizer does not come into contact with your skin or eyes.

You need to be careful when the concrete mixer is working. You should check the integrity of the wires and sockets, do not test the quality of the concrete and do not correct problems when the equipment is plugged in.

Although the process of preparing paving slabs is labor-intensive, the result is worth it. In a month, garden paths laid out with a beautiful exclusive coating can turn your garden plot into a small masterpiece landscape design.

For landscaping the territory of a cottage, garden plot, areas intended for recreation or parking cars, as finishing coating tiles are used. In order to exclude extra expenses, try making paving slabs at home. Let's talk about this work in more detail.

Selecting a Method

To organize the production of paving slabs with your own hands, it is recommended to first decide on the methodology for creating facing elements. The following types of coating production are distinguished:

pressing (vibration) of rigid concrete compositions;
technology for manufacturing paving slabs using vibration casting.

Both production methods allow you to organize work on the production of tiles at home, which produces a facing material with a low-porosity structure and a smooth front side. By following the rules of technology for making paving slabs at home, you can easily achieve required characteristics for facing material.

There are no significant differences between both methods. But the main point that makes it possible to implement home production facing covering is equipment for the production of paving slabs. To create a facing coating, paving slabs are usually cast independently. The technique is based on compacting a concrete mixture in molds using vibration. During work, various operations are performed, which determine the type of cladding production (single-layer and two-layer).

If you set a goal, you can purchase professional, expensive equipment and establish a home workflow. But, it is possible to create a machine for paving slabs with your own hands. We'll talk about this in the next chapter.

What will you need?

To make paving slabs at home, you will need raw materials, proportions when selecting components, additional devices, and drying racks ready-made elements.

When performing tasks at home, you will need the following equipment for paving slabs:

concrete mixer, preferably in a forced action version;
molds for facing elements. They buy ready-made products or make them themselves;
container for solution (10 l);
protective gloves;
shovel for a set of mortar;
vibrating machine for paving slabs.

The main components in the production of facing coatings are the following materials:

crushed stone or gravel;
sand;
cement (grade M500);
plasticizer;
dyes (in the production of colored cladding);
lubricant mixture;
water.

When the production method is chosen and prepared necessary tools and materials, you need to make a machine for making paving slabs.

Machine for making paving slabs

When creating your own production of facing coatings, you need to take care of the equipment. To create a vibrating machine with your own hands for making paving slabs, you need to start by solving the following questions:

determine the size of the working platform;
select the material for the equipment, find out the general dimensions of the future vibrating table.

Dimensions home machine are calculated in such a way that the equipment does not take up extra space in the garage or workshop. It is also necessary to avoid overloading home equipment.

Before you start making your own machine for making paving slabs, you need to pay attention to the following points:

for fixing general design apparatus, rivets are used. Such a mount is able to withstand vibration loads during the production process;
usually the machine is fixed to a stationary part, so you will need a welding machine;
the height of the device for making paving slabs at home depends on the height of the master and the technology used;
the vibrating device is often fixed to the top plate using clamps.

The optimal solution for producing paving slabs with your own hands is to fulfill the following points:

a prefabricated type of vibrating table when creating curbs and making paving slabs at home;
the vibrator is used for leveling and compacting already finished coating. For these purposes, the tool is moved to a vibrating platform;
the vibrating platform, if necessary, serves as a tabletop for the circular machine.

Equipment for paving slabs must be stable and comfortable to use.

Bed production

To construct the frame, you will need Grinder(angular), and welding. You can use any vibrating table scheme, or use arbitrary calculations. The design goes like this:

two frames of the same size are welded;
The stationary part of the apparatus is assembled, again by welding. 4 racks are welded to the frames.

You can make legs from a pipe. An introductory video about making paving slabs at home will help, where you will find important instructions on the design of a vibrating table.

The base of the vibrating machine at self-production paving slabs, is the following design:

support sole with the ability to adjust the height;
crossbars (top and bottom) with the same wall thickness;
if the platform is removable, then bolts are welded in the corners;
The electrical part consists of a socket and a switch located on the plate. The plate is pre-welded to the posts.

The next step in the production of equipment for paving slabs with your own hands will be the installation of a vibrating platform.

Platform

To ensure the operation of the machine and to make paving slabs at home, it is important to correctly install the removable cover to the vibrating table. Materials can include:

steel layer;
Chipboard, plywood made of several layers. This option is suitable for rare use of the machine.

The engine is mounted in the central part of the platform. To make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to make a machine. Use one of the fixation options:

the tabletop is reinforced in the middle with the help of a corner and plates welded to it. It is on the plate that the motor will be placed;
if the platform is made of steel plate, then this option is suitable. Holes are drilled in the tabletop for the fixing bolts. Or you can weld clamps at the bottom of the platform.

The motor can be attached from below, secured with bearings. At the final stage, springs are installed that increase vibration of the motor during operation. Rubbers are welded at the corners of the platform, onto which springs are mounted.

The equipment is prepared, and you can begin the process of making paving slabs at home.

Production of facing coating

preparing molds for facing elements;
preparing a concrete-based mixture;
work on a machine;
keeping finished elements in molds;
stripping and preparing the next batch.

Let's take a closer look at the recipe for making paving slabs at home.

Preparing the molds

When creating molds for facing elements to make paving slabs with your own hands, you can use the following components:

rubber;
plastic;
polyurethane;
tree;
metal;
silicone

The material chosen determines how the molds withstand a certain number of cycles during operation. The reuse of molds allows a special lubricant, which is used before pouring the mass to make paving slabs (see video). The product can be made in molds and without lubrication. In this case, an antiseptic is applied to them, and after stripping, they are washed with a composition based on hydrochloric acid.

Preparing the solution

To make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to properly mix the mixture for the products. Don't forget to dilute the plasticizer and coloring pigments (if necessary). If you plan to make gray products, then coloring compounds will not be needed.

It is important to observe the proportions of the solution when making tiles at home:

the percentage of plasticizer from the number of all components in the dry version will be 0.5;
cement (23%);
sand (20%). We will tell you what sand to use next;
plasticizer (0.5%) of the total amount of dry components of the composition;
water (40%) of the amount of components in dry form;
crushed stone (57%).

First, cement and sand are mixed, then a plasticizer, then a turn of crushed stone. The liquid is added gradually, in small portions.

Using a vibrating table

The filled molds are fixed on a vibrating table to make paving slabs yourself. The intensity of vibration during machine operation depends on the number of molds on the platform. Do not overload the equipment.

When making paving slabs with your own hands, when the machine is turned on and vibration begins, an empty space may form in the molds. It is necessary to add solution to the voids. The duration of operation of the vibrating table should not exceed 5 minutes. The appearance of white foam indicates that the product is ready.

Aging of finished products

In order to properly produce paving slabs, it is important to follow the step-by-step execution of the work. That's why, ready product It is not immediately removed from the molds, but is placed on pre-prepared racks. The storage area for facing elements should be protected from sun penetration.

The finished elements remain in the molds for one or two days.

Stripping

During the work process, do not forget to check the recommendations and tips on how to make paving slabs yourself, which will help you produce a high-quality facing coating.

After the cladding elements have dried, you can begin stripping them. To knock the finished product out of the mold, you need to lower it into water for 2 minutes (water 70 degrees). We take the product out of the water and place it on a vibrating table. You can lightly tap the sides of the molds with a mallet to help the product come out.

When all the elements have been removed, it is necessary to leave them for a week in a specially designated place so that the material can finally harden. You can use pallets to store material. Storage time is about a week.

What sand do you need?

Doing paving cladding correctly means following the technology during the work process and using high-quality components when composing the mixture for the cladding elements.

How the mixture is prepared is described in previous chapters, and what sand is needed to make paving slabs will be discussed here. Usually quarry or river sand is used without additional components.

When buying sand, it is important to be able to determine its quality. Take a handful and squeeze in your hand. The lump formed during compression indicates that clay compounds are present in the sand. This material is not suitable for preparing high-quality mortar to make tiles at home.

Good sand should crumble when compressed. You can determine the quality of sand by its appearance. If you choose low-quality sand, you will not be able to make paving slabs. The sand must not contain impurities.

Manufacturing of colored paving slabs

Making colored paving slabs with your own hands is almost the same as creating gray facing material. The only difference will be in the preparation of the solution for future facing elements.

When preparing the mixture for homemade colored paving slabs with your own hands, you need to add special coloring pigments. As for the proportions of dyes, it will be from 3 to 7% by weight of cement. With an increase in the percentage of dye, the color of the future product will be more saturated.

Two coloring methods are used in the manufacture of paving slabs:

painting the finished cladding;
adding a coloring pigment when mixing the solution.

Usually the second coloring option is chosen, because the first is considered a rather labor-intensive process.

The most popular dyes for DIY colored paving slabs are considered inorganic.

The subsequent steps during the creation of the color coating will be the same as described above. It would be a good idea to watch the video below on how to make paving slabs with your own hands, which also talks about preparing a colored composition.

Note: when mixing the composition for a colored facing coating, you need to use cement white. Ordinary cement is not suitable as the main component for making colored paving slabs yourself.

If you follow the rules during the work process, there should be no problems. If any difficulties arise, you can check that each step is performed correctly using our recommendations on how to make tiles at home.

Paving slabs, paving stones - popular, easy to use and available material for the design of sidewalks, paths, platforms, landscape design elements on the street, in the park, garden, on personal plot. It has many advantages and a wide range of applications, since it is an inexpensive, easy to manufacture and environmentally safe coating.

Paving stones manufactured in compliance with all technological nuances, will be resistant to abrasion and will withstand many cycles of freezing and subsequent thawing. In addition, it is easy to install and, if the need arises, replacing damaged areas, this can be done at any time.

Production of paving slabs

It is not difficult to make paving slabs, the technology is quite simple and allows you to obtain a variety of shapes, sizes and colors as a result. The production process can be successively divided into stages:

preparation of forms,
concrete preparation,
molding,
holding and drying finished products,
stripping,
storage.

The simplest and most suitable, including for home use, is a vibration casting technology using plasticizing additives. This does not require large expenditures on equipment; if you have the skills, you can make it yourself. The result is low-porosity concrete paving stones with a dense texture and a smooth surface. This is precisely achieved with vibration casting, when concrete is compacted under the influence of electromechanical vibrators on a special vibrating table.

Necessary equipment and materials

Since the tiles are concrete, first of all, you need a concrete mixer, preferably of the forced type, that is, operating on the principle of a mixer. You will also need a vibrating table, casting molds and lubricant for them, and a concrete mixture.

Casting molds of various sizes and configurations can be purchased freely. They are commercially available in rubber (they are the most durable, can withstand up to 500 castings), plastic and polyurethane (about 200 production cycles). Their variety is very large; manufacturers can make them to order, be it forms with a pattern, a certain surface texture, or forms for glossy paving slabs.

Lubrication is necessary for trouble-free stripping of products after the concrete has hardened. You can either purchase it ready-made or make it yourself. The simplest lubricant is prepared like this: 50g mineral oil need to be mixed with 1.5 liters of water until an emulsion is formed. But it is important to achieve the desired balance of fat content, otherwise the lubricant may spoil appearance ready-made concrete products.

The composition of the concrete mixture is the most important part of the production technology. This includes:

hard crushed stone of non-metallic rock 3-10 mm, or, as an alternative, granite screenings or gravel;
cleaned washed sand;
cement grade M500;
concrete plasticizer;
dry dye;
water.

The composition of the mixture can be changed to obtain different properties final product.

Preparation of concrete mixture

The recipe for the mixture for paving slabs is simple, but requires careful preparation all ingredients and methodically following the sequence of actions. Calculating the amount of each component is easy if you know required proportions volume of substances.

For one part of cement you need to take two parts of a mixture of sand and crushed stone, 0.02 parts of plasticizer and 0.2 parts of dry coloring pigment. The ratio of the volume of water to the volume of the dry mixture will be 2:3, that is, three parts of the dry mixture need two parts of water. This ratio will ensure the strength of the finished concrete product and is ideally suited for production at home.

You can also give the following calculation of the approximate consumption of materials per square meter of finished paving slabs with a thickness of 4.5 cm:

23 kg of cement;
56 kg of crushed stone (gravel or screenings);
390 g plasticizer.

If the concrete is colored, then 1.5 kg will be needed for this amount of dye materials. Water will be added not by weight, but by volume of dry ingredients.

To obtain high-quality concrete, you need to follow some rules for handling plasticizers and dyes. Neither plasticizer nor dye can be added dry to a mixture of cement and crushed stone. The plasticizer is diluted in hot (70-80 degrees C) water (200 grams of substance per liter of water) and added in portions to the concrete solution being mixed. The dye is also diluted in water (40-50 degrees C, 250-280 grams of dry dye per liter of water) and added at the same stage as the plasticizer.

Before starting to prepare the solution, you need to rinse the walls of the concrete mixer with water, since they should be wet. Then water is poured in and, with continuous stirring, cement and sand are poured into it in parts. After obtaining a homogeneous emulsion of water and cement, crushed stone is added. Lastly, the plasticizer and dye, previously diluted, are poured in. The resulting solution must be mixed until smooth; this process takes some time. If the planned production volume is small, you can do without a concrete mixer and mix the solution manually.

We offer you to watch a video instruction on how to make paving slabs with your own hands:

Filling forms

Technological features of how to pour paving slabs correctly are as follows:. It is better to fill the forms halfway with concrete at first, then they need to be placed on a vibrating table. After the vibrating table starts working, the concrete will begin to compact, as evidenced by foam bubbles on its surface - this is how the air in the mixture comes out. As the concrete settles, it must be added to the required height.

Also, if gravel or crushed stone is not added to the solution, you can increase the strength of the tile by placing reinforcement in the form of iron mesh or wire in the casting mold.

Concrete can be poured in layers, for example, to save dye. The front side of the finished block will then be colored and the rest gray. The colored and regular mixture should be kneaded separately, it is only important that its density is the same.

On average, forms with concrete should be left on the vibrating table for 4-5 minutes. After the vibration has finished, they must be placed on a flat surface. Hardening paving slabs should not be exposed to direct sunlight. Taking into account the presence of a plasticizer, it takes up to three days to completely harden.

Video on pouring forms of paving slabs on a personal plot:

Stripping and storage of paving slabs

In order not to damage the mold during unmolding, you need to warm it up by immersing it in water at 50-70 degrees Celsius, then just tap it with a rubber hammer so that you can easily “shake out” the finished product. After stripping the forms, they are ready for a new production cycle.

The finished paving slabs must be kept for up to three weeks on a flat surface and also in the shade, for further hardening and strengthening. It should be laid out for storage “face to face” if there are several rows, covering each with shrink film. During this time, the tile will dry out sufficiently and acquire the strength necessary for use.

The above manufacturing technology is applicable not only for paving slabs; it is also possible to organize the production of curbs in a similar way .

Application of paving slabs

Since paving slabs are a universal material, they can be used almost anywhere. Playgrounds, car parks, pedestrian streets, park areas, bicycle paths, private land holdings - this is just the main list of areas, expanding which will not be difficult. Paving slabs are used to decorate flower beds, fountains, garden ponds, decorative fences and fences, porches and terraces, stair steps.

Laying this covering allows the soil underneath to “breathe”, as it allows air and water to pass through, and does not contain toxins, although it does interfere with plant growth. But the soil still retains its properties, unlike the soil under solid concrete or asphalt.

Paving slabs can withstand heavy structures and are not damaged by moisture and extreme weather conditions. These properties are due to the fact that its composition is close to the composition of concrete structures used in construction in the supports and floors of buildings. This is a strong and durable material, little exposed to climate and aggressive urban environments.

Several examples of using paving slabs in your suburban area

Molds for making tiles with your own hands, which ones to choose?

Sometimes ideas lie on the surface, and we simply don’t notice them. So it is in this case. When wondering how to make tiles with your own hands, the first thing that comes to mind is to buy ready-made forms. But this is not at all necessary.

Nowadays a lot of products in stores are sold in such transparent plastic containers. These include fruits, various frozen semi-finished products, as well as a variety of confectionery products - cakes, pies, puff pastries. These forms are perfect for making tiles yourself. They are durable and can withstand several cycles of casting concrete tiles. By the way, I used containers from gummy worms in the form of molds for making tiles - there are such sweets, many probably know - I bought them for my grandchildren more than once.

The first store where I turned for help in finding these “forms” supplied me with them in such quantities that it was enough to make about 10 square meters tiles in 2 sittings, after which I broke only one of these " homemade uniform“And that’s because of my own carelessness. Moreover, not only did they not take the money, but they also said thank you and expressed a desire for him to come again.

My neighbor garden plot After looking at my works, I went even further. He got hold of a bag of colored and clear plastic granules that are used to make plastic bottles, and adds them in different proportions to the concrete solution. The tiles are varied and beautiful. He paved the path in the garden with such tiles with his own hands (he laid it in the center) and laid the edges with ordinary gray tiles without granules (also homemade).

The requirements for molds for homemade tiles are also the most common - strength and the required quantity.

I advise you to choose forms that are not crunchy, but soft to the touch, the material resembles silicone. I can also advise you not to choose completely outlandish shapes - design by design and unusual by unusual, but laying such tiles with your own hands will be difficult for a novice master.

In order to better fit the tiles together, select shapes with smooth edges.

Why I chose gummy worm molds is because they have an angle of almost 90 degrees and laying tiles is a pleasure, and debris does not fall into the joints between the tiles, and therefore sweeping paths from homemade tiles is also very easy.

Using the same method, it is easy to make not only tiles, but also borders to limit a section of a path or yard with them. It’s also not difficult to choose forms for homemade concrete curbs.

How to make concrete paving slabs with your own hands - step-by-step instructions:

Mix cement and sand in proportions of one to three. Use at least grade 500 cement for making tile mortar. (Learn more about making concrete with your own hands).
Gradually add water to the solution while stirring it. The consistency of the solution should be dough-like - do not slide off the trowel.
Lubricate the inner surfaces of the tile molds with oil - this will make the removal process easier for you. finished tiles when it dries.
Now fill the tile mold with concrete mortar. Do this with pressure so that the mold is filled evenly and tightly. You don’t have to be overzealous with smoothing the back side of the tile - there are more unevennesses “at the bottom” - the adhesion will be better when laying the tiles later.
Now, just in case, you can shake the form to be sure that the concrete has spread throughout it. That's it, now you can set the future homemade tiles dried. I recommend putting it under a canopy to dry, that is, avoiding direct sunlight.
After a week, you can remove the tiles from the mold and put them to dry under the same canopy. The second stage of drying the tiles can take up to a month so that our homemade tiles acquire the necessary strength and durability. I recommend laying it out to dry on stainless steel sheets - it will be easier to remove, especially if you put it on while it’s still damp.

DIY path made from concrete forms

Making a path stylized as if paved with stones or cobblestones with your own hands couldn’t be easier. True, it will be more difficult to obtain forms for such a path than in the first case, when we talked about making simple concrete paving slabs with our own hands.

The formwork form for pouring paths in the garden can be made as a regular, rectangular one.

Make the height six or seven centimeters, this will be quite enough. You can also do simple form 50 x 50 cm in size, and you can make 4 tiles at once.

The process of making tiles is simple - just lay the mold in the place that you plan to refine and decorate. It is better, of course, to prepare the base in advance, remove uneven areas and grass. If you want to get a monolithic coating (for example, you are pouring a solid path), then pour a thin layer of concrete over this place and only then use a tile mold. Then fill the molds with the solution. Do not forget to compact the solution tightly into the molds, then level the solution with a trowel or trowel. Remove the mold and repeat the whole process in a new place. You can fill the gaps between such homemade pseudo tiles with more liquid concrete– the design of the path will be stronger, the seams between the tiles can be leveled with brick jointing – for me it was just the right width.

We use metal formwork to build a concrete path in the garden

Building a concrete path with your own hands using metal formwork is not difficult even for a novice builder.
We remove the soil in the place where the garden path is planned.
We press hoops into the ground
We take out the soil from the middle of each hoop and fill the hoop on the outside with the same soil.
Compact and water
In this finished formwork pour sand (the height of the sand layer should be 5-7 centimeters - depending on the levelness of the path and the amount of earth removed).
We also level the poured sand with a trowel and compact it, adding a little water - just to slightly moisten it.
We fill all this with a layer of concrete. I recommend a concrete solution of the following composition: 1 part cement and 1 part water – 4 parts sand. You can use less sand - there is no cement - otherwise you will not get a concrete path, but an ordinary dirt path.
Stones that are too large can be further strengthened by additionally reinforcing them with any small metal scraps, pieces of wire or metal mesh. I add reinforcement without fail, it’s still more reliable.

If there is a need or desire, you can add dyes to the concrete solution to give the path the appearance of natural stone. Even more similar to natural stone concrete will be given artificial cracks and dents, protrusions and depressions made for decorative purposes. They are easy to make even with one trowel. You can start trimming the edges of the stones the very next morning. Until the concrete solution gains strength, the paths must be well watered. To prevent the concrete garden path from cracking, I do not recommend carrying out work on its construction on particularly hot days - you will not have time to water it.

You can also decorate a garden path from artificial concrete stones if, immediately after casting, before the concrete has set, you lay out various patterns of tiles, glass and small stones in the still wet concrete.

How to make flower beds from concrete.

By the way, from concrete and its remains (even those left after casting paving slabs) for the garden you can make not only homemade tiles, but also concrete flower bowls that are deliberately made somewhat rough in appearance in order to give additional zest to the paths made of paving slabs.

You will need:

fine concrete
trowel
wooden stick
4 plastic buckets of different sizes
weight for weighting (for example, large stones)
sunflower oil or Vaseline,
brush

So, in order to decorate your garden with your own flower girls cast from concrete, grease the buckets sunflower oil so that later the finished flower pots can be easily removed from the mold: a large bucket is inside, a small bucket is outside.

Mix the concrete according to the manufacturer's instructions, stir with a trowel or a clean wooden stick. Pour the mixture into a large bucket, leaving a few centimeters to the brim so that the concrete does not overflow when you place the small bucket inside. Insert the small bucket into the large bucket, pressing down on the concrete mass, and place a weight in it to prevent it from moving. After 2 days, the concrete will harden and the buckets can be carefully removed.

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