What can be done to line a blind area with concrete. How to make a concrete blind area around a house? Sequence of operations for laying a concrete blind area

A blind area is a single continuous covering that encircles a house or other building along the perimeter. Arrangement of the blind area is one of the final stages of construction, i.e. it is done after the building is erected. If the developer has planned to finish the basement with plaster, tiles, brick or other material, the blind area is constructed after the complete completion of the mentioned event.

Helpful advice! All tasks associated with arranging the blind area must be completed before the cold weather arrives.

To manufacture the design in question, a variety of different materials can be used. different materials: paving stones, asphalt, tiles, etc. The most widespread among private developers is concrete blind area. This material characterized by a long service life, high performance and technical characteristics and a relatively affordable cost.

Blind area around the house
Concrete blind area

Stone blind area
Brick blind area

Many owners do not fully understand the importance of the blind area, considering it an exclusively decorative element of the landscape. Along with this, such a coating performs a number of significant practical functions. After reading the information below, you will learn why a blind area is needed, what materials can be used to arrange it, and how to make such a covering on our own.

As noted, the decorative function of the blind area is one of the main ones, but far from the only one. You can find information about the purpose of the design in question in the following table.

Table. Functions of the blind area

Functions	Explanations
Decorative	The blind area makes the overall appearance of the building more attractive, solid, thoughtful and complete.
Protective	A properly equipped blind area is a reliable barrier to melt water. The structural element does not allow moisture to come into contact with the supporting structure of the house, due to which the risk of foundation destruction will be significantly reduced. The structure is arranged so that waste and other waters are immediately discharged into the sewer system or other appropriate place, for which the required surface slope is set.
Thermal insulation	Few people pay attention to this moment, and in vain. The presence of a properly equipped blind area helps to significantly reduce the degree of freezing of the soil and, as a result, the foundation, and with it the entire structure.
Preventing soil heaving	As noted, the presence of a blind area allows you to reduce the degree of soil freezing. Along with this, soil swelling will also be noticeably reduced. Thanks to this it will be ensured good protection foundation of the building from shifts in the ground, which will eliminate the risk of violating the integrity of the supporting structure and deteriorating its characteristics as a whole.

Design features and requirements for the blind area

The design of the blind area includes 2 main layers. The first one is the underlying one. Its main function is to create a dense, reliable foundation for the overlying layer. The underlying layer can be made with or without a slope. To make this design ball, it is allowed to use crushed stone, gravel, and sand. The recommended thickness of the underlying layer is about 2 cm.

Sometimes the soil around the building is additionally treated with special chemicals - herbicides. The use of these prevents the growth of plant and grass roots in the future, thereby minimizing the risk of compromising the integrity of the supporting structure of the house.

The top layer is a coating that provides a decorative function and protects the foundation from water. Thickness – up to 100 mm. Asphalt, paving stones, concrete and other materials are used to make the top ball.

In addition to the above, the blind area includes other important layers. The structural features of the structure can be seen in the following image.

In order for the blind area to fully cope with the previously mentioned tasks, during its arrangement it is necessary to ensure compliance with a number of important requirements.

1. Firstly, the width of the blind area must exceed that of the roof overhang. When arranging a site on sandy soil, it is recommended to make its width 25-30 cm larger than the cornice (the total width should be more than 60 cm). In most cases, the total width of the blind area does not exceed 80 cm, but when working on heaving type soils, this figure increases to an average of 100 cm.

   

   Blind areas: a – clay-crushed stone; b – concrete; c – asphalt; g – cobblestone; 1 – compacted crushed stone 20 mm; 2 – clay; 3 – cement screed 15 mm; 5 – concrete preparation 100 mm; 5 – asphalt 15-20 mm; 6 – crushed stone 10 mm; 7 – cobblestone; 8 – sand preparation 50 mm

   

2. Secondly, the blind area must be made with a slope in the direction of the site. The specific slope value is selected taking into account the characteristics of the finishing coating. For example, in the case of a concrete blind area, a 3-10 degree slope from the walls is made. The minimum acceptable slope, regardless of the material used, should be 1.5 degrees.

   

   

3. Thirdly, the blind area must be continuous, encircling the entire perimeter of the building. It is strongly not recommended to make gaps - the overall quality of the design will significantly decrease.

   

4. Fourthly, the blind area cannot be connected to the foundation - these systems are characterized by different degrees of settlement. In view of this, a minimum 1-1.2 cm expansion joint must be maintained between the supporting structure and the surrounding surface. It can be filled with bitumen, sealed with sealant, filled with geotextiles and similar materials, or covered with sand.

   

   

   

Types of blind areas and their purpose

Depending on the material of manufacture, design features, service life and a number of other indicators are all existing varieties The blind area can be classified into 3 main groups. Information about them is presented in the table.

Table. Types of blind areas

Group of blind areas	Description
	This group includes monolithic structures made of concrete, asphalted blind areas, as well as coatings constructed using the pouring method (cement mortar is used) over crushed stone with subsequent iron filling. A monolithic structure, all other things being equal, will last no less than the building it surrounds. A significant disadvantage of such a system is the high cost and complexity of the arrangement. This is also true for asphalt: the use of tar, which is a binding element, is financially feasible only when carrying out large-scale asphalt work on roads. Important! If it is planned to insulate the blind area, a rigid system is the only possible option - insulating soft and semi-rigid coatings is pointless. Additional disadvantages of rigid blind areas include their low decorative properties - a concrete or asphalt area can hardly be called very beautiful.
	The functions of the underlying layer here are performed by a multilayer cushion, and the top layer by paving slabs or paving stones. In addition to tiles and paving stones (the most popular options) can be used reinforced concrete slabs, cobblestone, porcelain stoneware, etc. Self-leveling coatings are relatively simple to install; they require much less labor and financial investments compared to monolithic systems, but are not suitable for use on heaving soils.
	A multi-layer cushion is installed, and a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. They are the least financially costly and labor-intensive. The disadvantage of soft blind areas is their low service life, averaging up to 7 years. Along with this, such a design can be used without any fear in any climatic regions, without paying attention to the type of soil. And it’s not difficult to disassemble a failed soft blind area in order to repair or replace it. Practice shows that it is advisable to resort to using a soft blind area only as a temporary solution if there are problems with finances, time or labor resources - you are unlikely to like doing the same thing every 5-7 years.

The most optimal type of coating in terms of the ratio of cost, quality and appearance indicators are semi-rigid blind areas. They last up to 20-30 years, are suitable for use in almost all climatic zones, with the exception of permafrost, are characterized by high maintainability and require relatively little resource expenditure for their arrangement.

An additional advantage of semi-rigid blind areas is the attractive appearance. For example, by making a coating from paving slabs, the owner has at his disposal a very beautiful area, no different from traditional garden paths. In this case, semi-rigid blind areas are installed in the same order - only the finishing coating material differs (usually paving stones or paving slabs).

Prices for paving slabs

paving slabs

The underlying layer (cushion) is made in the same order, regardless of the chosen type of blind area (the only exception is a monolithic concrete system; related issues will be discussed separately).

As you can see in the image, the pillow consists of soil, clay and sand. In the case of a soft crushed stone blind area, a layer of crushed stone is poured on top. If a semi-rigid blind area is being built, a layer of crushed stone and an additional layer of sand are poured over the cushion shown in the image, after which tiles/paving stones are laid. In the case of pouring a hard site, a sand and gravel cushion is installed, sand and gravel are poured, insulation is laid, reinforcement is performed and a number of other activities are carried out prior to pouring the concrete mixture, which will be discussed separately in the corresponding section of the manual.

Sand cushion for the blind area
Crushed stone pillow

The procedure for arranging the pillow is described in the table.

Table. DIY blind area pillow

Work stage	Description
	A trench is dug along the perimeter of the future blind area. The depth is determined by the type of soil. The minimum recommended value is 15-20 cm. When working on heaving soils, the depth should be increased to at least 30 cm. For greater ease of work, you can first make the markings, taking as a basis the recommendations from the article on arranging the foundation, or take the simplest route: Drive metal rods or wooden pegs into the ground in the corners of the future blind area; Drive in intermediate pegs; Stretch a mooring cord (or other similar rope) between the landmarks and dig in accordance with the prepared markings. At the same stage, you can set the previously mentioned gap between the foundation and the blind area, using any of the listed materials, for example, it is very convenient to work with damper tape and polyurethane sealant. Depending on the selected type of blind area, at the same stage you can set the required slope of the structure. To do this, it is enough to simply dig a trench to different depths at the inclination points. The bottom of the trench is carefully compacted. To do this, you can use an ordinary log: take it in a vertical position, lift it up, lower it down with force, and continue until all the earth is compacted.
	Drive intermediate pegs vertically evenly into the ground, if this was not done at the marking stage. At the same time, they will serve as supports for the formwork. Bars with a cross section of 2-3 (up to 5) cm will do - it doesn’t make sense anymore. Install supports in half-meter increments. The principle is demonstrated in the image. Armed with a level, mark the height of the formwork on the pegs. You will nail the boards according to the marks.
	For the construction of formwork, boards 3-4 cm thick are suitable. Select the height of the elements in accordance with the parameters of the blind area. For greater convenience, you can first mark the boards according to the height of the future layers that make up the pillow. You can tighten the corners of the structure along the outside with corners. It is preferable to use bolts to fasten elements together - such fasteners are easier to dismantle. Bolts with a diameter of up to 1 cm will be sufficient. Important! If you do not plan to dismantle the formwork in the future, pre-treat its wooden components with an antiseptic and wrap it in roofing felt or other insulating material - unprotected wood will soon begin to rot, which will not have the best effect on the quality of the blind area. Note one. The image shows the reinforcement. We don't pay attention to it for now. Note two. The image shows the option with inclined supports. If you wish, you can give preference to this method - this moment is not of fundamental importance. In general, you can do without such supports, ensuring the stability of the boards using installed reverse side bricks/blocks. Important! The expansion joint is made not only at the junction of the blind area with the walls of the house, but also across the structure being built. Failure to comply with this recommendation will lead to extremely unfavorable consequences: as a result of soil heaving due to temperature changes, the blind area will crack over time. Transverse seams are arranged with an average 2-meter gap. To ensure the required clearances, install boards up to 2 cm thick at the specified spacing, as shown in the image. Important! All wooden elements structures must be soaked in antiseptic before use. If you plan to install a blind area that does not involve pouring concrete, you can easily do without formwork - it’s simply more convenient.
	Fill the trench with a 10-15 cm layer of sand (depending on the initial depth of the hole). If possible, use river sand small fraction. This layer of the pillow will take on the functions of waterproofing. The backfill is thoroughly compacted. You can use the same method as for compacting soil. For better compaction, soak the sand with water. Important! A thickness of 10-15 cm should be obtained after compaction, and not after the initial filling of the material. Crushed stone is covered with a 5-10 cm layer, again, depending on the initial depth of the trench. It is best to use sand of different grades so that the number of voids in the backfill is minimal. Instead of crushed stone, you can fill in gravel or broken bricks. This layer of cushion will ensure the removal of moisture penetrating through the sand from the overlying structures. Important note! If at the venue construction work If there is a high location of groundwater, be sure to lay geotextiles between the sand and crushed stone layers for additional waterproofing. Make small (in the conditions under consideration 5-10 cm is enough) overlaps on the walls of the formwork. Do not forget to maintain the specified surface slope (if provided) when filling with sand and crushed stone.

The pillow is ready. The further procedure is determined by the characteristics of the type of blind area chosen by the developer. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the instructions for arranging the most common variants of the design in question.

Soft crushed stone blind area

In fact, the pillow described above can be considered as a soft blind area made of crushed stone. To broaden your horizons, we invite you to familiarize yourself with an alternative option for arranging such a structure using additional waterproofing material.

First dig a trench and fill in a layer of sand, leveling it and setting the required slope, as in the instructions above, then follow the instructions below.

Table. Soft blind area

Work stage	Description
	A layer of waterproofing material is laid on top of the sand. Many developers use roofing felt, but we recommend giving preference to Rubimast - it costs a little more, but lasts much longer. In the example under consideration, formwork with a width of 80 cm is installed. The width of the rubimast roll is 100 cm. To avoid cutting the material, simply bend the excess and glue it to the wall using molten bitumen or other suitable composition.
	A 10-centimeter layer of a mixture is poured on top of the waterproofing material, including an equal amount of sand and gravel/crushed stone. The backfill is carefully compacted and leveled in compliance with the specified slope.
	On top of the sand and gravel backfill, you can pour an additional 3-5 cm (or to the top) layer of crushed stone and compact it well - this way the blind area will definitely not sag while walking on it.

The temporary soft crushed stone blind area is ready. If you wish, you can hide the formwork boards using decorative borders.

Prices for crushed stone

Basic information

As noted, the technology for arranging a blind area with finishing coat in the form of paving stones and tiles remains the same. The choice of specific material is up to the owner, but there are several important notes.

Thus, the use of paving stones is permissible only if the foundation has previously been waterproofed. Among the disadvantages of paving stones, one can note only the relatively high cost.

Tiles are one of the most popular materials widely used in arranging blind areas. This option has a number of significant advantages:

• tiles are much cheaper than concrete in the quantity required to fill the site;
• the material is presented in a huge range of size variations, colors and shapes, which allows you to get exactly the finishing option that the owner wants to see;
• You can lay the tiles yourself, spending relatively little time on it - you definitely won’t have to wait 3-4 weeks for the concrete to harden.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

Which tile should I use?

When choosing tiles for a blind area, follow the tips below.

Advice one. To perform the work in question, tiles made using the vibration pressing method are best suited. By purchasing such material, you significantly reduce the risk of purchasing a fake, because It is impossible to produce this finish in artisanal conditions - serious, expensive industrial equipment is used to produce tiles of this group.

Vibro-cast tiles (the second popular variety) are relatively easy to make in an ordinary garage. It costs less, but the real quality of such products usually remains a mystery.

Tip two. Pre-prepare a plan for the future arrangement of tiles on paper or in a special computer program- this way you can choose the design you like best and make it easier for you to continue doing your work. If you wish, you can use one of the ready-made options shown in the images.

Tip three. For paving the blind area, select tiles that will fit well with other paths and other areas with similar finishes located on the site.

Paving technology

You have already made a cushion for the blind area. Further work is performed in the sequence shown in the table.

Table. DIY tile blind area

Work stage	Description
	As you can see on one of the above images, cushion for blind area with paving tiled has additional upper layer in the form of sand backfill. Place 8-10 cm of sand on top crushed stones. Recommendations in regarding leveling and material tamping is similar previously arranged layer.
	Proceed to paving the blind area. Lay the tiles from any convenient angle. Move away from you. Place elements according to the principle brickwork, i.e. with offset seams in adjacent rows. You can choose a specific installation option from the illustrations suggested earlier or come up with it yourself.
	To ensure a tight fit of the tiles/paving stones to the base, a rubber mallet is used. Work with the tool is carried out in the following order: Tiles are laid; A wooden plank is placed on top of it; The performer carefully taps on the board, trying to press firmly enough, but gently, on the tile with a mallet through the mentioned spacer. Each tile is laid in this order.
	Using a level, check the evenness of the tiles in relation to each other and the ratio of the rows. Add sand under the sagging finishing elements, press down the protruding parts of the tiles with a mallet, following the above instructions, while simultaneously maintaining the required slope of the blind area. Pave the entire area in accordance with the given sequence. If there is a need to cut tiles, do it with a grinder.

Important note! Many developers insist that a layer of cement screed be poured before laying paving stones/tiles. We recommend laying the finish directly on compacted sand - in in this case more efficient drainage of water through the gaps between the tiles will be ensured. In the case of arranging a cement fill, the permeability of the system will decrease, and this threatens the occurrence of ice during the cold season and all the accompanying troubles.

If, due to some circumstances, constructing a blind area without using a cement screed is not possible, after filling the layer of sand, do the following:

• prepare a mixture of 1 share of cement (from M400), 3 shares of sand (sifted, fine-grained, river) and clean water in an amount sufficient to obtain a homogeneous plastic solution of medium density;
• spread the solution over the surface of the area to be equipped using a trowel or any other suitable tool, then level it with a mop or a long straight slat (rule). The final thickness of the cement layer should be 30-40 mm.

After waiting for the cement to dry, proceed to laying the tiles. It is most convenient to use glue for this purpose, designed specifically for fixing the materials in question. finishing materials. For the procedure for preparing and using the glue correctly, check the manufacturer's instructions - these points may differ for different compositions.

Some developers even accept a structure with cement pouring without subsequent finishing as a finished blind area.

This option is possible, but its appearance does not satisfy everyone. If desired, special coloring pigments can be added to the cement composition - the surface will take on a more attractive appearance.

Concrete blind area

An option for owners who are accustomed to doing everything thoroughly and for a long time. Having spent one time a relatively significant amount on arrangement concrete blind area, you will have at your disposal a durable, reliable and extremely durable design.

We will tell you about the procedure for arranging an insulated reinforced concrete blind area. The presence of a thermal insulation layer will have a beneficial effect on a number of key operational and technical characteristics of the foundation, plinth and the entire structure as a whole. If you wish, you can exclude the steps affecting the installation of insulation from the manual and use the same instructions, but it is strongly not recommended to abandon thermal insulation.

Insulated concrete blind area - photo of layers
Concrete blind area - diagram

Ideally, the width of the insulated blind area should correspond to or exceed the soil freezing depth. In practice, the installation of such a design, firstly, will require very large financial investments, and secondly, it will take away the usable area of ​​​​the site. In view of this, developers adhere to the “golden mean” of 700-900 mm.

Before starting work, you need to select a suitable thermal insulation material. In order for the choice to be as objective and correct as possible, it is necessary to take into account a number of significant points.

1. Firstly, this is the ratio of the cost of insulation and its characteristics.
2. Secondly, the operating conditions (in the ground, outdoors, i.e. the material should not rot).
3. Thirdly, the climate at the location of the building.

Taking into account the above criteria, the most optimal material foam is used to insulate the blind area. Extruded polystyrene foam performs even better, but it costs more. For most regions of the Russian Federation, a 5-centimeter layer of insulation is sufficient. In particularly cold areas, this figure can be increased to 10 cm. In this case, it is better to install insulation in 2 layers.

The composition of the cushion for a concrete blind area remains similar to previous designs, but the sequence of actions undergoes certain changes.

First of all, you need to understand the nuances of lateral insulation of the structure. If the inability to subsequently dismantle the wooden formwork does not bother you (for example, you plan to subsequently decorate visible structural elements with special borders or other suitable elements), you can simply glue the insulation boards to the pre-assembled boards using a binder designed specifically for polystyrene foam materials.

Along with this, it is available Alternative option: slate sheets are wrapped in plastic film and deepened into the ground along the blind area. Even if such a structure remains visible after the event in question, it will be much easier to disguise it than wooden elements. This system looks like this:

Improvised formwork with thermal insulation material installed along the entire length of the blind area. Bricks or building blocks can be used as supports, placing them on the ground on the back of the formwork. Will be shown in the following photos.

The polystyrene foam will already stand quite confidently on a pre-compacted base, while it will be supported by the materials poured further. To be more sure, you can bury the slabs a couple of centimeters into the ground or glue the insulation to the slate. It is not worth using mechanical fasteners - each hole in slate leads to a decrease in its strength, and in foam plastic - to the formation of cold bridges.

In this case, insulation can be used to make a damping layer between the base of the house and the blind area. With the help of a separating layer, you can ensure that the slope of the formwork is maintained: for this, it (the damper) must have a greater height in relation to the opposite wall.

After installing the side thermal insulation boards, make the pillow discussed earlier. Its composition will be the same as when arranging a blind area followed by paving with paving slabs.

Table. DIY concrete blind area

Work stage	Description
	In this case, it was decided to use two-layer thermal insulation made of ordinary polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam. First, a layer of foam is installed. The slabs are laid as closely as possible to each other. Bricks are used for temporary fixation. After covering the entire area with insulation, fill the existing gaps with foam. Let it dry, cut off any excess with a sharp knife and proceed to laying the second insulating layer. In most cases, extruded polystyrene foam boards are equipped with end grooves, the presence of which eliminates the possibility of gaps occurring between elements laid next to each other. Important! Thermal insulation layers are laid with bandaged seams, i.e. the joints of the top row should be offset from the joints of the bottom row. If you need to trim the slabs, you can use an ordinary sharp knife for this.
	For reinforcement, you can buy a ready-made mesh or make it yourself from reinforcement with a diameter of 8-10 mm. The rods are assembled into a mesh with cells 150x150 mm and fastened at the intersections using binding wire (cheaper) or special clamps (faster and easier). The mesh must be laid indented from the base. To ensure this, special support clamps are used. If you don’t have a sufficient budget, you can get by with stones, broken bricks, etc. In this case, it will not be possible to provide a 5-centimeter offset as when pouring a foundation, because... this will lead to an inappropriate increase in the height of the blind area. Try to maintain at least a 5-10mm gap.
	Concrete is prepared according to a standard recipe: a proportion of cement of a grade not lower than M400 is mixed with 3 shares of sifted sand and 4-5 shares of gravel or crushed stone. Water is added in such an amount that the output is a plastic, homogeneous mass of normal thickness. Pouring the finished mortar is carried out in the same way as a cement-sand mixture, i.e. the composition is laid out on top of the base and leveled using a mop or other suitable device, for example, a rule - a long straight strip. In this case, the function of beacons will be taken over by the side walls of the formwork. After pouring, pierce the concrete with a reinforcing bar in several places to release excess air, fill the resulting depressions with mortar, sprinkle the surface with a thin layer of dry cement and leave the structure to gain strength. According to GOST, this requires 28 days. To protect the structure from precipitation, cover it with plastic film. Periodically (every 1-2 days) lift the film, spill the concrete with a small amount of water and cover it back - this will allow it to react maximum amount cement, which will ensure a higher final quality of the concrete structure.

Helpful advice! Before pouring the concrete mixture, cover the parts of the insulation protruding above the ground with fiberglass mesh. To attach it to the foam, ordinary PVA glue is suitable. The presence of a mesh will protect the insulation from possible damage.

In this case, it was decided to abandon the intermediate transverse damper partitions made of boards (described earlier). The structure is insulated in 2 layers and on the sides, as a result of which the thermal insulation simultaneously takes on the function of dampers, and it is better not to tear the reinforcement - the strength will decrease.

Prices for concrete mix

concrete mixture

Drainage issues

To ensure effective removal of precipitation, the blind area is equipped with a drainage system. The design is elementary in its execution:

• an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 10 cm or more is cut lengthwise into 2 parts. A grinder is suitable for cutting;
• the resulting pipe halves are laid along the perimeter of the blind area close to it;
• In the corners of the blind area at the junction of the pipes mentioned above, solid drainage systems are placed. The same asbestos-cement pipes will do. Trenches are dug to accommodate them. Select the dimensions of the pit so that there is at least 5 cm of free space on the sides and top of the pipe. First fill the bottom of the trench with a 5-centimeter layer of sand and compact it. The pipes themselves are wrapped in geotextile and diverted towards the structure to collect wastewater. The specific option depends on the individual characteristics of the site arrangement.

The described drainage looks like this.

To improve the appearance of a concrete blind area, it can be tiled or decorated with other material of the owner’s choice.

Good luck!

Video - DIY blind area

Any building, regardless of its functional purpose, needs a blind area. It gives it completeness and makes it invulnerable to weather conditions. The laying technology requires the implementation of a number of rules. But even non-professionals can follow them. All work can be done with your own hands, without outside help.

What is it for?

A blind area can often resemble a path around a house, but it has much more functions.

A blind area is a waterproof covering, soft or hard, up to 1.2 m wide, laid around the perimeter of the building.

The blind area performs a number of important functions:

• Protects the foundation from external waters. Rain or melted snow can seep underneath and, at best, get into the basement, and at worst, destroy the cement mortar and cause the building to sag, shortening its service life.
• Minimizes the risk of soil heaving, as a result of which the foundation may be subject to additional loads due to soil shifts. This can lead not only to cracks or flooding, but also to damage to the integrity of the building.
• Protects against freezing of the soil under and around the building. In other words, it has thermal insulating properties, thanks to which you can save on heating.
• Protects the foundation from tree roots or burrowing animals through which water leaks.
• Gives the building a beautiful, finished appearance.
• Provides access to any point along its perimeter, regardless of weather conditions, as it can be used as a path.

The main thing is that it should be laid immediately after the completion of the basic work on building the house, but before the onset of cold weather. In addition, it is important to ensure that at least a year passes between the construction of the foundation and its installation.

The blind area is a complete advantage. The only disadvantage is the type of material used to cover it.

Kinds

A soft blind area will add a little warmth to the design than cold and austere stone or tiles

Based on the type of surface, a distinction is made between hard and soft blind areas. The first is made of concrete, sandstone, asphalt concrete and other materials that ensure the strength of the coating. The second is made from mulched soil or soil with lawn grass, crushed stone or paving slabs.

Pros and cons of a hard blind area

The advantages of a solid blind area are its strength, maintainability and durability. But the disadvantages are that, being laid directly on the ground, it is exposed to negative effects at the moment of freezing and thawing of the water in it. This gradually leads to the destruction of the foundation and moisture entering the house.

You can avoid exposure to moisture by regularly carrying out repairs and sealing cracks.

Advantages and disadvantages of soft

Soft blind areas are increasingly used in construction, as they have several advantages over hard ones:

• It is not afraid of seasonal vertical shifts of the soil caused by the freezing and thawing of water at its base. There are no cracks in it through which moisture can enter the foundation, destroying it. It does not need to be constantly repaired, wasting effort, time and money on it.
• The technology for laying it is simplified, since you don’t have to adhere to the slope from the walls of the building.
• It is distinguished by its practicality and aesthetics. Good choice external covering - gravel, crushed stone, flowers, climbing bushes or lawn plantings - makes a building with such a blind area spectacular and original.

You can achieve greater efficiency during installation by using penoplex as insulation. It will help reduce the depth of seasonal freezing of the soil around it. Thanks to this, even in the presence of clay soil, installation will occur with less depth of the building’s foundation.

The only drawback of a soft blind area is the need for constant care. Lawn grass will need to be trimmed, weeds that have grown through the rubble will need to be removed, and decorative backfill will need to be cleared of debris.

Concrete blind area is ideal for our climate

Classification by material type

• Concrete - its installation does not require special skills or additional funds. Its advantage is practicality, comparative cheapness and functionality. It is ideal for our climate and has only one drawback - the need for regular (once every 1 - 2 years) repair of cracks that appear.
• Cobblestone or rubble - it is laid out from paving stones, stone or paving slabs and serves not only as a protective layer for the foundation, but also as a decorative element. Such a blind area is inferior to concrete in terms of functionality and installation, since it is more difficult to lay.
• From sand - when using it, the sand must be wetted warm solution liquid glass, and treat the top with a hardener, thanks to which it will turn into sandstone. In this case, he will not be afraid of either weather conditions or excess moisture.
• From clay - such a blind area was made back in Rus'. Its main advantages are its low cost and practicality, and its main disadvantage is the ability to quickly wash out. That is why the clay is covered with crushed stone or other materials on top.

If desired, you can arrange a brick, asphalt or soil blind area, as well as a blind area made of concrete slabs.

An effective blind area is a covering, when laying which not only the top layer, but also the bottom layer - the base - was correctly selected

Each type of blind area deserves attention, but has both advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, builders recommend making your choice taking into account the type of soil - on heaving soils it is better to use soft soil, on less watered soils it is better to use hard soil. Also matters ground floor. If it is available, it is necessary to equip an insulated blind area to reduce heat loss.

Regardless of the choice of materials and method of installation, it is important to follow the technology. An effective blind area is a covering, when laying which not only the top layer, but also the bottom layer - the base - was carefully selected.

Under the concrete blind area you need to make a sand cushion, onto which gravel is poured and the solution is poured. In the case of cobblestones, gravel and sand change places. In this case, the layer of sand cushion should then reach 50 cm, since the cobblestones themselves are pressed into it. Additionally, it is better to lay crumpled clay at the bottom of the trench.

Required Tools

The choice of tools is based on the type of coating. But most often it is:

• roulette;
• level;
• manual rammer;
• buckets;
• hose with sprayer;
• shovel;
• Bulgarian;
• Master OK;
• container for preparing mixtures;
• rope or thick nylon thread for marking;
• pegs made of wood or metal.

Calculation

The calculation of the material is carried out individually, taking into account the width of the blind area and the type of coating. Builders often use certain formulas to calculate the required volume of materials.

You can determine the volume of sand for a sand cushion or the blind area itself by multiplying the length along the perimeter by the height of the sand layer and the width of the blind area. In the same way, the consumption of crushed stone or other soft coating is calculated.

When determining the required volume of reinforcement, the length of the blind area is multiplied by its width.

In the case of tiles, the volume is calculated in a similar way, but builders advise purchasing this material with a reserve.

Preparation

The laying of the blind area is preceded by painstaking preparation, which conventionally consists of several stages.

Determining the size and thickness of the fill

The width of the blind area is calculated based on the type of soil and the length of the roof eaves, but the wider it is, the better it will perform its functions.

The width of the blind area is calculated based on the type of soil and the length of the roof eaves. There is an opinion that the wider it is, the better it will perform the functions assigned to it.

According to GOST, the width of the blind area should be 0.8 - 2 m, depending on the subsidence of the soil on which the building stands, and at the same time it must exceed the size of the cornice overhang by 20 - 30 cm.

The thickness of the fill layers is also regulated by building codes. According to them, the base for a blind area made of clay, crushed stone or sand must have a height of at least 15 cm. The thickness of the fill must be at least 5 cm.

If the blind area serves as a pedestrian path, according to the plan, increased requirements are placed on it. In this case, not only its width should increase, but also the thickness of the layers.

When arranging the blind area, we must not forget about the slope. Its absence will lead to rapid destruction of the surface under the influence of accumulated water. And excessive steepness will provoke acceleration of water flows, as a result of which the edge of the blind area at the border with the ground will gradually erode.

The slope is calculated based on the width of the coating. For 1 m of width make 2 - 10 cm of slope. The ideal option is a slope of 2 - 3 cm per 1 m. Thus, the slope will be 3 - 10 degrees.

Preparing the bed

The process of preparing the bed for the blind area is always the most important

The process of preparing a bed for a blind area must be approached responsibly. The old coating must be carefully removed, while also cleaning the part of the foundation that is adjacent to it.

If necessary, at this stage a recess is made under the storm sewer system. You need to dig it on the side opposite to the foundation, and then lay pipes into it.

When calculating the width of the bed, you need to take into account the curbs. If you plan to lay paving slabs, it is reasonable to make the width a multiple of its dimensions. Thus, you can get rid of the need to trim it, thereby saving time.

The depth calculation is calculated based on the number of layers of the blind area and their height. According to building codes, it should be at least 15 cm. But, as practice shows, it is best to go deeper by 25 - 40 cm.

When installing a blind area on clay soil, you can remove only 30 cm of soil, since in this case there is no need to build a clay castle.

After removing the soil, the bottom must be compacted. The quality of compaction is checked by blows of the tool and confirmed by the absence of soil movement with each effort. After compacting, it is better to treat the surface with herbicides to prevent the growth of weeds and minimize the time for caring for the blind area in the future.

Marking

The quality of markings is checked by the building level

To mark the corners of the bed, pegs are driven in, between which a thick thread or rope is stretched. This stage should not be neglected, since the markings serve as a guide during work.

After its installation, the level checks the quality of work. According to building codes, the curvature of the outer edge of the surface should not exceed 1 cm.

Base structure

The blind area is layered cake

The blind area is a layer cake with different layer thicknesses. The standard technology for its creation consists of several stages:

1. Arrangement of a hydraulic lock - it drains water. To do this, clay 5–10 cm thick is poured onto the bottom. This layer can be made with a slope, then maintaining it at each stage. An alternative to clay is concrete with a layer of 10–15 cm. Ruberoid, geotextile or loose PVC film is laid on top of the concrete or clay. In the latter case, it is better to make a fold near the foundation, thanks to which it can move under the influence of temperature fluctuations of the earth and not tear. If necessary, pipes are laid on top of the film for the stormwater system, which are covered with crushed stone on top to prevent them from clogging.

In order to minimize the load on the foundation, you need to take care of the gap between it and the blind area. It can be filled with sand, several layers of roofing material or polystyrene foam, thereby providing additional insulation.

2. Laying a sand cushion with a layer of 5 cm to protect the waterproofing from damage by crushed stone. The sand needs to be leveled, watered and compacted. At this stage, you will need a hose with a sprayer, thanks to which uniform watering is carried out. The sand is compacted after drying. If laying of communication pipes is planned, it is carried out at this stage.

3. Installation of the curb. It is carried out according to the finished markings and leveled. Each border is secured with pegs with inside and cement on the outside to prevent the top layer from spreading.

4. Laying crushed stone 5–10 cm thick. The final value is calculated based on the level of precipitation in the region. After backfilling is completed, the pegs to support the curb are removed, and the curb itself is leveled, compacted and covered with sand.

If you have a basement, you can additionally insulate the blind area. To do this, sand is covered in a layer of at least 5 cm, compacted, and sheets of foam plastic are laid on top of it. Sand will help avoid point loads, which this material is afraid of.

Preparation of the solution

Traditionally, concrete mortar is prepared from cement, sand, crushed stone and water

To prepare the solution you will need:

• Portland cement brand M400 is an ideal option, but not the only one;
• clean sifted sand;
• crushed stone with a fraction of 5 – 10 mm;
• water, preferably at room temperature;
• liquid glass or other additives that will make it frost-resistant.

Proportions are determined in each case separately and depend on the brand of concrete. In the classic version they look like this:

• 1 part cement;
• 3 parts sand;
• 4 parts crushed stone;
• 0.5 parts water.

Water is added to cement to prepare cement laitance. Then sand and crushed stone are mixed into it. After each component, you need to thoroughly stir the resulting mixture (at least 5 minutes) in order to achieve uniformity and the absence of lumps.

Nuances before pouring

1. The slope - we must not forget about it, since it performs the most important function - it drains water. Just 5 degrees is enough. Stretched threads will help simplify the process of arranging it. After pouring the concrete, it is also leveled.
2. Waterproofing. Due to the fact that increased demands are placed on it, since it is designed to protect the foundation, the waterproofing material must be overlapped.
3. Insulation. As such, it is best to use polystyrene foam. It does not rot or accumulate moisture, but has excellent thermal insulation properties.
4. Polyethylene or burlap - they must first be prepared in order to cover the filling with them. This will minimize the risk of concrete cracking and extend its service life.

Pouring technology

The formwork is a structure consisting of wooden boards 2 cm thick, laid around the perimeter

Due to the fact that a concrete blind area is an ideal option for use in our climate, it is performed most often.

Its installation is carried out in the following sequence:

To ensure the strength and durability of the structure, it is necessary to make seams across it, every 2 - 3 m. They will prevent the destruction of the blind area during frosts. They are made using wooden slats, treated bitumen mastic to avoid rotting and installed in such a way that their upper parts are flush with the boundary of the concrete pour. Also, such seams are extremely necessary in the corners of the structure.

• Pouring concrete with mandatory leveling and compaction. At this stage you need to remember about the slopes. Pre-installed wooden slats in areas of expansion joints will serve as excellent beacons.

It is advisable to cover the poured concrete with polyethylene or burlap. The latter must be regularly moistened with water. This will prevent the concrete from drying out and cracking. Its drying time is 1 month. During this time, it becomes durable and invulnerable to adverse weather conditions.

DIY installation video instructions

Thermal insulation and painting

Insulation of the blind area must be carried out during its installation. For this purpose, sheets of foam plastic or penoplex are suitable, which are laid on top of the sand cushion and under the reinforcing mesh.

Paint allows you to refresh the design of the yard and prevents premature destruction of the blind area

Upon completion of the construction of the blind area, it is painted. Paint helps prevent structural damage and eliminates the need for frequent repairs. In addition, it makes the blind area spectacular, and the building itself original.

Best suited for coloring polymer paints– acrylic, water-based, polyurethane enamel or primer-enamel. Their main advantage is that there is no need to prime the surface. In addition, many of them are resistant to chemicals, ultraviolet radiation and moisture. They are applied in 1 - 2 layers to a cleaned surface and dry quickly.

Installation of a blind area is one of the most important stages of construction, carried out strictly in accordance with technology. Despite the huge number of rules, nuances and subtleties of this work, doing it yourself is not so difficult. The main thing is to get necessary materials and tools and be patient. Moreover, in the end it is rewarded not only with an attractive appearance, but also with comfort, practicality, and also savings on heating the house.

The blind area of ​​a house compared to its foundation has an incomparably lower cost. Making a good blind area is much easier than building a foundation. But all of the above does not mean that attention to this important detail it should also be much less, which, alas, often happens. The blind area may seem like a small cog compared to the entire structure of the house, but the “health” and long life of the entire structure greatly depend on it.

In the article we are going to look in detail at how to make a blind area around the house, and how to do it correctly, and we will also look at different options and indicate in which cases it is advisable to use them. We will consider the recommended building materials that should be used to create a good blind area for the house.

What is a blind area and why is it needed?

A blind area is usually called a strip of waterproof covering that encircles the entire perimeter of the house. Most often, we are accustomed to seeing blind areas made of concrete or asphalt, however, everything is not limited to these two materials. The main task of the classic blind area is to prevent atmospheric water from entering the foundation structure and the soils located near it. Why is this being done?

• Firstly, water that gets to the structure of the foundation base can saturate the soil near it and, if it is shallow, this can lead to freezing and the appearance of heaving forces. The so-called heaving soils, which include clayey and loamy soils, are especially dangerous. The forces of frost heaving are simply enormous, they are trying to squeeze the house out of the ground. If they are distributed unevenly across the foundation, this can lead to cracks and even destruction of the house.

• Secondly, the forces of frost heaving act not only on the sole, but also on the side structures of the foundation. In construction science, such forces are called tangential heaving. According to experts, 1 m² of wall can carry a load of 5-7 tons. Not every structure can withstand this. The blind area is designed to minimize the ingress of water from above.
• Thirdly, waterlogged soil with poor waterproofing of the foundation can cause water to enter the basement premises. Even good waterproofing does not always protect against leaks or high humidity. Everyone knows the proverb: “Water will always find a hole.” And here the blind area also plays its role, reducing the moisture content of the soil adjacent to the foundation.
• And finally, a poorly made blind area will provoke its own destruction, which will have a bad effect on its protective and decorative qualities.

Creating a high-quality blind area for a house is part of a set of measures for waterproofing the foundation and its drainage - wall or ring. By itself, it is “not a warrior in the field” and will be able to fulfill its main protective purpose only together with other elements. Why do you need a blind area at home?

• As noted earlier, the blind area prevents the penetration of atmospheric water to the foundation of the building. Water that gets onto the blind area must drain from it and enter the surface drainage system.
• The blind area, provided it is insulated, prevents the freezing of the soil underneath it and therefore reduces or eliminates the occurrence of frost heaving forces. This function works best in conjunction with foundation insulation. In northern European countries, insulation of foundations and blind areas has long been mandatory measures in the construction of houses.
• The blind area can serve as a sidewalk along which people move.
• The blind area performs a decorative function. thanks to it, any house in combination with the decoration of the walls and basement has a harmonious and complete look. We can say that the blind area is one of the important elements of landscape design.

Almost all houses and buildings require a blind area. For strip, slab, monolithic strip foundations, it is simply necessary. If the house is built on a pile or, then the blind area will serve only a decorative function.

What types of blind areas are there?

Let's consider what types of blind areas exist so that there is an “opportunity” to try one or another option to suit your conditions and choose the most suitable one.

Clay blind areas

This type of blind area has roots in the distant past. It was this material that our distant ancestors used to protect the foundation of their house from moisture. And, despite the fact that this method of creating a blind area may seem archaic, which is high time to be sent “to the dustbin of history,” it may well be used on modern buildings. Everyone knows the properties of clay - its plasticity, fire resistance and most importantly - water resistance. This material is the best natural waterproofing material. Almost all underground sources of artesian water are located between clay layers. Another useful property of clay is that it is impossible for any plants to grow on it. Of course, if the clay has a certain degree of purity.

This blind area is very easy to make. The fertile layer of soil is removed to a given width and depth, and then clay is poured and compacted. It is better to use clean quarry clay. The profile of the blind area is given a slope in the direction from the wall to its edge, and then the clay is reinforced with gravel or crushed stone, which must be pressed into its layer. An interesting composite coating is formed. Clay provides reliable waterproofing and plasticity, and crushed stone or gravel provides the necessary rigidity of the blind area and prevents erosion by water. A clay blind area together with crushed stone or gravel looks good and can even become an element of home decor, especially a wooden one. The clay blind area will never crack and can be easily repaired. It can serve for decades. Surely many have encountered unpaved roads on clay soils reinforced with stones. They have served for a long time and will continue to serve for a long time. Even trucks in rainy weather, the ruts on such roads are not trampled.

A significant limitation to the widespread use of clay blind areas is their main drawback - with direct, prolonged and strong exposure to water, the clay will still be gradually washed out. Therefore, in most cases, more modern materials are used.

Sand prices

Concrete blind areas

This type of blind area is the most common. And this is absolutely not in vain. one of the most common materials and blind areas made from it have a number of advantages:

• Properly prepared and laid concrete has high mechanical strength
• Concrete is not afraid of exposure to water and practically does not allow it to pass through, and when treated with various hydrophobic coatings it becomes an ideal waterproofing barrier.
• Concrete blind areas have a long service life - at least 25 years, provided that technology is followed.
• Concrete blind areas can be made independently; this does not require the services of special construction equipment.
• Concrete blind areas can be decorated with pebbles, gravel, and various natural stones.

Concrete blind areas, however, are not without drawbacks:

• Along with high mechanical strength, concrete blind areas are fragile. When heaving forces of different magnitudes occur in different areas of the blind area, cracks may appear. This problem is solved by reinforcement, which makes the blind area significantly more expensive.
• Bare concrete has an unpresentable appearance, beautiful house In a harmonious natural landscape, a concrete blind area will only spoil it.
• A concrete blind area is very difficult to dismantle; it is difficult to make local repairs, the need for which arises sooner or later.

The thickness of the concrete blind area in its thinnest part should be at least 5 cm, but given that it is constantly under the influence of natural forces, it is better to make it at least 7 cm. Naturally, the concrete blind area is given a slope of 3-10° in the direction from walls to its edge. The width should be at least 20-30 cm greater than the overhang of the roof eaves, but in no case less than 60 cm.

Cement prices

The blind area should encircle the entire perimeter of the house and not have a rigid connection with the walls. The fact is that during seasonal soil movements, the structure of the house and the blind area will behave differently and the presence of a rigid connection will lead to the appearance of cracks. In addition, different materials have different coefficients of thermal expansion. That's why they do the so-called expansion or expansion joint , which, on the one hand, provides the necessary seal to prevent water penetration, and on the other hand, allows mutual movements of the house and the blind area. Expansion joints have been made from tarred boards since ancient times, but now various synthetic materials can be used. Very often, expansion joints are made from roofing felt or polyethylene foam folded in half. There are also special damper tapes for screeds or heated floors, which can also be used for an expansion joint between the blind area and the base of the house.

Expansion joints must also be installed in the concrete blind area. They are made in the corners, and then every 1.5-2.5 meters. Oiled or tarred edged boards 20 mm thick, strips of laminated plywood or OSB are used as seams. When pouring a blind area, they serve as beacons for leveling it and later, after setting, they can be removed and filled with polyurethane-based sealants or left in place.

Blind areas made of asphalt and asphalt concrete

Such blind areas are also quite widespread, but mainly not in residential construction, but in industrial or commercial facilities. Asphalt is more plastic than concrete, and the likelihood of cracks appearing on it is negligible. Asphalt blind areas are less material-intensive, since 3-4 cm is enough to create a durable and water-resistant coating. They are quite durable and can last for decades.

However, asphalt blind areas have been widely used only in the construction of non-residential buildings. When heated by sunlight, asphalt can soften and the hydrocarbons that make up the bitumen, which is the binder for this type of coating, begin to evaporate from it. In addition, laying asphalt requires the use of special road equipment.

Blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs

This type of blind area will be most preferable if the house is planned to fit harmoniously into the surrounding landscape. A cozy and beautiful garden with paving stone paths, a plinth trimmed with natural stone or its imitation, will be in perfect harmony with paving stones or paving slabs. Natural stone can also be included in the same category, since from the point of view of technology for preparing the base and laying it there are no big differences. Natural stone, however, requires a highly qualified craftsman.

What are the advantages of blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs?

• As noted earlier, this is an attractive appearance.

• Properly laid high-quality paving stones or paving slabs have a long service life. According to the manufacturers, at least 20 years.
• High-quality paving stones have good frost resistance.
• Coatings made of paving stones or paving slabs made by vibropressing (namely, these are recommended for blind areas or paths) are not as slippery in wet weather or in the cold season as concrete, asphalt or made from vibrating tiles.

Vibropressed paving stones are an excellent material for blind areas

• Each paving stone is laid separately on the base, so this type of coating is not prone to cracking.
• Coatings made from paving stones or paving slabs are distinguished by their environmental friendliness.
• A blind area made of paving stones can also serve as a path along which people can walk.
• High strength and wear resistance.
• Blind areas made of paving stones can be repaired locally; complete dismantling is not required.
• or you can lay paving slabs yourself. This does not require the use of special construction equipment.

The main disadvantage of blind areas made of paving stones is its relatively high cost compared to “classic” concrete ones. There is a good way out of this situation - if the blind area will only be walked on, then it can be paved with paving slabs, which are both thinner and cheaper than paving stones. Areas and paths that will be subject to increased loads can already be paved with paving stones that harmonize with the blind area. Most manufacturers of vibropressed paving slabs or paving stones offer products of different thicknesses. Once laid, it is no longer possible to distinguish where the stones are thicker and where they are thinner. The construction of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs is shown in the figure.

Prices for paving stones

paving stones

Paving stones or paving slabs also have one important feature, which can manifest itself in both in good shape, and vice versa. Such coatings are laid on a sandy base and have gaps between adjacent elements. When water gets onto the paving area, most of it will be received by storm water inlets, taking into account the required slope, and flow down the gutters and surface into the water intake trays of the surface drainage system. But some part will still be able to seep between the paving stone elements into the underlying layers. Now let's look at how this feature can manifest itself in good and bad ways.

• Let's talk about the good stuff first. If water seeps through the seams, then such a coating will be dry and puddles will not stagnate on it. Of course, this is very useful for paths where the surface is horizontal, but the blind area has a slope and most of it will still flow into the water intake trays. But some of it will still end up in the underlying preparation.
• Now about the not so good ones possible manifestations. Let's say the house is built on heavy clay soils and the blind area of ​​paving stones or paving slabs is made correctly. Underneath it there are both crushed stone and sand layers that can accept a certain amount of water. When the snow melts, a situation may arise when the water completely saturates both sand and crushed stone and there is simply nowhere for it to go, since on one side there is a foundation wall with good waterproofing, and on the bottom and sides there are heavy clay soils. If a thaw is replaced by severe frosts, which often happens in the climatic zones of Russia, then the water in the crushed stone and sand layer will freeze and accordingly expand in volume. The blind area can collapse in such conditions very quickly. Even after one season of use.

On thematic forums dedicated to construction, a lot of questions are raised about paving stones and paving slabs in general and blind areas made from them in particular. Developers are sometimes simply perplexed because a good and impeccably laid paving area begins to swell after the first winter. And this most often happens due to the fact that when the snow melts, crushed stone and sand become saturated with water, which simply has nowhere to go due to the clay soils around. This problem can be solved very simply, but not free:

• The first solution to the problem is drainage. In the case of blind areas, this is high-quality wall-mounted deep drainage, as well as surface point and linear drainage. You can read more about drainage on our portal. Preference should be given to drainage with a wall-mounted relief geomembrane. Then water, having got into the gravel and sand, will not linger in them, but will flow down, where it will be “picked up” and removed by the drainage system.
• The second solution to the problem is insulating the foundation. This measure will avoid freezing of the soil in the area of ​​the foundation and blind area. Materials and technology are described in our portal.

The blind area around the house, in addition to vibro-pressed concrete paving stones, can also be made from more expensive natural materials.

• It may be a natural “wild” stone, which owes its name to its irregular shape.

• Natural chipped, split-sawn or full-sawn granite paving stones are also used as the top layer of the blind area. This is a very worthy option, but the cost is very immodest.
• A blind area made of clinker paving stones in combination with finishing the base with clinker tiles not only looks rich, but also has a very long service life. This option is no less modest than a blind area made of granite paving stones.

We will look in detail at how to make a blind area from paving stones or paving slabs in one of the following sections of our article.

Soft blind areas

It may seem that there is some kind of catch hidden in the name itself. We are subconsciously accustomed to perceiving blind areas as a rigid and reliable structure, and the word “soft” seems inappropriate. However, this is far from the case. Such blind areas have been used for a very long time and successfully. For many decades, soft blind areas have served without repair, and in climate zones where they are exposed to water, snow, severe frosts and heat in different seasons.

Some types of soft blind areas are also called Finnish, thanks to the country where they are widespread. It is difficult to convict the inhabitants of Finland of stupidity and impracticality; they live in stricter climatic conditions than most regions of Russia, they are building a lot of good and comfortable houses for living. It is not for nothing that Finnish builders are considered one of the best in the world. It is possible that it makes sense for us to learn some experience from the Finns.

As noted earlier, the blind area must solve two main problems. The first is to prevent water from entering the foundation structure and the soil near it, and the second is to preserve the integrity of the blind area itself in order to maintain its presentable appearance and solve the first problem. That is, the integrity of the blind area is one of the main tasks and a person is forced to constantly fight for this through reinforcement, creation of expansion joints, drainage and other measures. The wise Finns decided to stop fighting and make the area soft. One of the options for implementing this approach is shown in the figure.

The main thing in the construction of soft blind areas is a very interesting approach - you don’t need to worry too much about the integrity, solidity and waterproofness of the structure of the top decorative layer, but it is better to focus on how to remove water that has already penetrated through it. That is, the “most interesting”, those elements that have a protective function, in these types of blind areas are out of sight. If water penetrates through the top layer, then it is better not to interfere with it - let it seep in to its health, and the faster, the better. But then the water is already “waiting” for the drainage pipe, which also “gladly” accepts it and carries it away from the foundation into the wells.

The permeable layer on which the blind area and the drainage pipe are located are securely cut off from other soils by some kind of waterproofing material. It can be roofing felt or other materials, for example, PVC films for swimming pools.

The best results for waterproofing are provided by so-called PVP membranes (profiled waterproof polyethylene). They are made of high-density polyethylene (HPDE), which is completely inert to all substances that may be found in the soil. According to official documents - test reports, the service life of the PVP membrane declared by the manufacturers is at least 60 years, but in reality it will be longer if installed correctly. This means that you won’t have to do waterproofing again during your entire long and happy life. In principle, the durability of the membrane is approximately equal to the average lifespan of a house.

PVP membranes have irregularities on their surface in the form of truncated cones, 8 mm high. Thanks to these protrusions, water easily collects on the surface and flows off under the influence of gravity. Therefore, the membrane in a soft blind area is always laid at a slope in the direction drainage pipe. For laying in the ground, it is better to use a composite geomembrane consisting of two bonded layers. The first layer is the PVP membrane itself, and the second is a geotextile fabric that freely allows water to pass through and does not allow the surrounding soil to fill the entire space between the relief protrusions.

For waterproofing a blind area, a profiled geomembrane bonded with geotextile is best suited

Soft blind areas may have different finishing layers, that is, those that are visible from the outside.

• The blind area can be covered with crushed stone or gravel, which will give it a natural look. Such blind areas will always be in harmony with the surrounding landscape.
• Colored decorative or gravel is currently widely used. With their help, you can realize the most daring design ideas. These blind areas, and other landscape elements, look very good.

• The outer layer of the soft blind area can generally be made from fertile soil on which to plant a lawn. It will seem that there is no blind area, although we already know that the main thing is underground. Houses made of logs or standing in the middle of emerald green lawns look simply amazing.

Soft blind areas are increasingly used in individual housing construction in Russia. And this is quite justified, because their advantages are obvious:

• The soft blind area is not afraid of seasonal soil movements, which have always been, are and will be in any, even impeccable design. After freezing and thawing, and, accordingly, movement, the blind area returns to its place. Accordingly, there is no need to equip expansion joints.
• The soft blind area does not have to be made on a slope, since water drainage occurs under it. This allows them to be used as a pedestrian area. Even a blind area with a top layer of lawn can be a pedestrian zone if it is well drained and reinforced, for example, with geogrids.

Lawn reinforced with geogrid

• The soft blind area is easy to repair in case of local damage, and also easy to completely dismantle.
• The soft blind area has an attractive appearance that is in harmony with nature. The use of colored decorative crushed stone or gravel allows you to create unique compositions. You can also plant various plants on such a blind area: lawn grass or various flowers and small shrubs. For this, however, special measures will have to be taken.
• A soft blind area is cheaper than concrete or paving stones, and the process of creating it is less labor-intensive.

The disadvantages of soft blind areas include:

• When constructing a soft blind area, special attention should be paid to preparing the base, waterproofing the foundation and the drainage system. If a concrete blind area is guaranteed to “throw” water away from the foundation across its width even with a poor drainage system, then a soft one under the same conditions may not be able to cope with the incoming water.
• Crushed stone or gravel covering of a soft blind area is more difficult to clean from dust and debris than concrete or paving stones.
• Various weeds can grow through the gravel and will require periodic removal.

• Lawn blind areas also require constant maintenance.

In some sources, blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs are classified as soft, arguing for this choice by the fact that such structures do not have a rigid base. We deliberately do not do this for two reasons:

• A blind area made of or paving slabs can hardly be called soft even by tactile sensations.
• Very often, to increase the reliability of a blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs, it is made on a concrete base, on which a thin (5-7 cm) layer of cement-sand mixture is poured. Clinker tiles or paving stones are laid only on concrete base using special adhesive mixtures. Such blind areas simply cannot be called soft anymore.

In order to avoid unnecessary disputes about whether a particular type of structure belongs to soft or hard, in this article we consider blind areas made of paving stones or paving slabs in a separate category. It will be much easier this way.

Is it necessary to insulate the blind area?

In the recent past, some 20-30 years ago, such issues did not arise at all during the construction of houses in our country. The foundation could be insulated with expanded clay poured into the sinuses, but the blind area was not separately insulated at all. The foundation was always laid below the soil freezing level. And this was one of the few measures to protect the foundation from seasonal ground movements on heaving soils. However, construction science and technology did not stand still; new materials appeared along with them. As a result, in global construction practice they came to one conclusion: in order to reduce the negative impact of frost heaving forces on the foundation, especially on heaving soils, it must be insulated. In addition, this makes it possible to reduce the depth of the foundation base in the ground, which significantly reduces its costs. And if the foundation itself is insulated, then the blind area must also be insulated. Only this way and no other way! Here are the main reasons why it is necessary to insulate the foundation and blind area.

• If the house has a heated basement, then insulation of the foundation and blind area is mandatory. This, firstly, will reduce heat loss, and secondly, it will prevent soil freezing, which will reduce heaving forces. With a properly calculated foundation and its insulation, soil freezing can be avoided.
• If the house has a shallow foundation, then insulation of both the foundation and the blind area is mandatory. Shallow slab foundations of the USHP type (insulated Swedish slab), which are now gaining popularity, must be insulated on all sides, including from below.
• Insulating the blind area still makes sense so that melt water that gets into the crushed stone and sand layers of the substrate does not freeze when the temperature drops, but calmly goes into the drainage pipes.

Insulation of the blind area does not need to be done only in two cases:

• When a house is built on a pile foundation. But then, in principle, no blind area is needed.
• When the house has a submerged uninsulated foundation and does not have a basement floor. In this case, insulating the blind area is simply a pointless burying of insulation in the ground.

Completely different materials are offered as insulation, but in order to save readers from the agony of choice, we offer only the best in terms of price and quality ratio. This is extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam - EPS. Why is it recommended to use this particular material?

• Firstly, EPS has low thermal conductivity (0.029-0.032 W/(m*K°), which in principle explains its use as insulation.
• Secondly, XPS has a high mechanical strength. Compressive strength with deformation of no more than 10% is no less than 0.25-0.5 N/mm². That's quite a lot. The foundations of houses are built on this insulation.
• Thirdly, XPS has a low density. One cubic meter of this material has a mass of 38 to 45 kg.
• Fourthly, EPPS has extremely low water absorption (no more than 0.2-0.4%) and vapor permeability (0.013 Mg/(m*h*Pa)), which is very useful when located in the ground.
• Fifthly, EPS is very easy to process and install. A minimum set of tools is required.
• Sixth, EPS is durable. Its service life in the ground is at least 30-50 years.
• Seventh, under normal operating conditions, XPS does not emit any harmful substances and does not harm living beings or nature.
• And finally, XPS has a reasonable cost. The presence on the market of a large number of this insulation from different manufacturers plays into the hands of us, the consumers.

The world's most popular insulation material is extruded polystyrene foam.

The thickness of the insulation of the blind area is calculated, but in no case should it be less than 5 cm.

As an example, we will consider in detail the processes of creating three types of blind areas: reinforced concrete, paving stones and soft ones.

DIY concrete blind area

Let's consider the process of creating a concrete insulated blind area around the house. At the end of this section, a calculator will be offered that, based on the perimeter of the house, its configuration and the size of the blind area, will help calculate the volume of concrete required for laying.

Let’s say right away that the number of options for implementing a concrete blind area using various materials and technologies are endless. It is simply impossible to describe them all not only in one article, but even in a multi-volume publication. We will describe one of many, but one that has been implemented on a large number of objects and has been successfully operating for quite a long time to say that such a design is justified. For ease of perception, let us present the main stages of the process of creating a concrete blind area in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	Work should be carried out only in the warm season. First, the blind area is marked. It should be no less than 20-30 cm wide than the overhang of the roof eaves. The smallest height is 7 cm, slope 3-10°. First, the outer edge of the blind area is marked using a cord stretched level between stakes driven into the ground. If curb stones and drainage trays for a surface drainage system are installed, their width is also taken into account, since the soil must be developed for them as well. The horizontalness of the cord is checked with a spirit level or laser level.
	The upper level of the blind area junction is marked on the plinth wall. To do this, marks are made in one place at a convenient height (1-1.5 m), and then they are transferred to other places using a laser level or spirit level. Next, using a plumb line and a tape measure, the horizontal is transferred down. The junction line can be drawn with a pencil or marker, but it is most convenient to “beat it off” with a paint cord.
	On the marked base, soil is removed to a depth of at least 30 cm. The main thing is to remove the entire fertile layer and “get” to a solid, reliable foundation on which the blind area will lie. If necessary, the soil is removed to greater depths. It is imperative to get rid of the roots of all plants and to prevent their growth in the future, you can treat the soil with herbicides. The profile of the bottom of the trench is given a slope towards the outer edge of the blind area.
	An underlying layer of quarry “fat” clay can be poured onto the bottom of the trench, which is then compacted. This layer is also given a slope. If the site has clay or loamy soils, then they can only do so by compacting the bottom of the trench.
	A formwork made of edged boards is installed on the outer edge of the future blind area, which is secured using wooden pegs or pieces of reinforcement driven into the ground. The upper edge of the formwork is aligned along the previously tensioned cord and checked with a level.
	The bottom of the trench is lined with a non-woven geotextile thermally bonded fabric with a density of at least 150 g/m², which must completely cover the bottom and have at least 30 cm of overlap with the plinth wall and the edge of the trench. Geotextiles are needed to separate dissimilar soils.
	Layers of coarse construction sand at least 20 cm thick are poured onto the geotextile layer. The sand is leveled with a rake, spilled with water and compacted for the first time. It is preferable to use mechanized method tamping using a vibrating plate.
	In hard-to-reach places where a vibrating plate cannot pass, a manual tamper is used. After the first tamping, add sand in the right places and tamp again. The process of pouring water and compacting is continued until there is a smooth and dense sand base on which there are practically no traces left when walking.
	If elements of the surface drainage system are installed - storm water inlets and sewer discharge pipes from them, then holes and trenches are dug for them in the already compacted sand. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the level of the future blind area - the rainwater inlet must be installed at its level, taking into account the slope. It must be installed on a concrete mortar with a layer of at least 5 cm. Sewer pipes must also be laid with a slope of at least 2 cm per 1 linear meter pipes.
	Trenches with pipes and installation pits for rainwater inlets are sprinkled with sand, which is then compacted. In places where sewer pipes pass and near storm water inlets, this can only be done carefully and manually.
	5 cm thick EPS insulation is laid on a layer of compacted sand. If the upper part of the base has not been insulated, then this can be done simultaneously with the blind area. Insulation boards are laid on a compacted sand base. If necessary, they can be easily trimmed with a construction knife. The slabs must lie tightly on the base. If necessary, when laying them, sand is added in the right places.
	After installation, the seams between the slabs are filled with polyurethane foam.
	An expansion joint is formed at the junction of the blind area and the base. This can be done by doubling roofing felt, polyethylene foam, and special self-adhesive tape for heated floor seams and glued to the wall. The seam should protrude beyond the upper edge of the future blind area by 5-10 cm. If the blind area is adjacent to the polystyrene foam that insulates the base, then there is no need for additional materials.
	A metal reinforcing mesh made of wire with a diameter of 4 mm and a cell size of 100*100 mm is laid on the insulation layer. The mesh is trimmed in the right places. The edge of the mesh should be 5 cm from the end of the blind area. If it is necessary to lay more than one mesh, then an overlap is made by one cell, and then the meshes are fastened with knitting wire.
	The reinforcing mesh should be located in the concrete layer in its lower part at a distance of 3-4 cm from the insulation. To install the mesh at the required height, it is best to use special reinforcement clamps that have different heights and are designed for different surfaces. To install reinforcing mesh, it is better to use clamps for loose surfaces. Before laying concrete, all parts of the surface drainage system are covered with plastic film.
	Beacons are made from edged boards 20 mm thick, strips of OSB boards or thin laminated plywood, which will simultaneously serve as expansion (compensation) joints in the blind area. From these, pieces of the required size are cut, which are attached at one end to the base at a previously designated level, and at the other to the formwork. The upper edge of the beacons should coincide with the surface of the future blind area, and the lower edge should be tightly pressed against the insulation slabs. Beacons are placed in the corners, as well as every 1.5-2.5 m along the entire length of the blind area. A distance of 2 m is considered optimal.
	To fill the blind area, use concrete grade M250-M300, but not lower. You can read more about the recipe and preparation of concrete of the right grade in the right quantity on our portal. The volume required for the blind area can be calculated in the calculator at the end of this chapter.
	To improve the properties of concrete when preparing it, it is recommended to use plasticizers, as well as add polypropylene or basalt fiber.
	It is better to mix concrete using a concrete mixer or mixer - such mixtures are of better quality than those mixed by hand.
	Concrete is laid gradually, in sections between the beacons. The concrete is first laid on the surface, then spread with a trowel or shovel, and then leveled with an aluminum rule along the beacons. After laying in one area between the beacons, they move on to another.
	1-2 hours after installation, it is necessary to iron the blind area. To do this, pour a thin layer of dry cement - about 2 mm - through a sieve onto the upper surface of the concrete. Then, using a polyurethane hand float, dry cement is rubbed into the surface of the blind area. Walking on the blind area is possible only after 48 hours.
	For high-quality maturation of concrete, it is necessary to moisten its surface daily with water, and then cover it with plastic film or a damp thick cloth. This operation should be done within 10-14 days.
	After the concrete has completely hardened - after 28 days, the formwork is dismantled. The blind area is ready.

In the future, the blind area can be equipped with curb stones, made along the edges storm sewer– install drainage trays and sand traps. How to do this is described in detail in an article on this topic on our portal.

Video: Construction of a concrete blind area

Calculator for calculating the required volume of concrete for a blind area

We provide readers of our portal with the opportunity to independently calculate the volume of concrete required for the blind area. The initial data for the calculation are the geometric dimensions of the blind area: its height at the wall, height at the end, width. And also for calculations you need to know the perimeter of the house: the sum of the lengths of all its sides. This calculator calculates the volume only for houses with a rectangular configuration; if there are any roundings in the foundation, then this calculator cannot be used or it will be possible to calculate the volume only on straight sections.

The calculations also take into account the configuration of the house, namely how many external or internal corners it has. If you need to calculate the volume of concrete for any straight section, then you must indicate that the number of external and internal corners is zero.

Calculator for calculating the volume of concrete for a blind area of ​​given dimensions

Enter the initial data sequentially and press the button “Calculate the volume of concrete for the blind area”

Enter the thickness of the blind area at the end in centimeters (its thinnest part) - h1

Enter the thickness of the blind area at the end in centimeters in the part adjacent to the foundation - h2

Enter the width of the blind area in centimeters - A

Enter the perimeter of the house in meters - the sum of the lengths of all sides (indicated in red in the figure)

Specify quantity external corners(indicated in the figure by red circles)

Enter the number of internal angles (indicated in blue circles in the figure)

Do-it-yourself blind area made of paving stones or paving slabs

Blind areas made of paving stones look more aesthetically pleasing than concrete ones, and their protective qualities for the foundation are no worse. That's why they are gaining popularity. Let's consider the option of arranging such a blind area, which will be mounted together with a drainage pipe. At the end of this chapter, readers will be offered a calculator that will allow them to calculate the area of ​​the blind area in order to determine required quantity paving stones or paving slabs.

We present the process of installing the blind area in the form of a table.

Image	Process description
	The position of the blind area is marked, but it is taken into account that in order to develop the soil, it is necessary to add 30 cm to its width to create drainage. The soil is developed with slopes from the plinth wall to the edge of the trench and from the edge of the trench at a large angle to the future drainage pipe. A section of the trench is shown in the figure.
	The soil is developed to a depth of at least 50 cm from the surface of the blind area. The roots of the plants are removed, the bottom is cleaned, onto which coarse construction sand is poured, which is moistened layer by layer and compacted. The final layer of underlying sand must be at least 10 cm. The backfill profile is also given the required slope. It is better to do tamping with a vibrating plate.
	Insulation - 5 cm thick EPS is laid on the prepared sand base. It is advisable to use the type of polystyrene foam that is specifically designed for insulating the underground part of the foundation. The insulation boards are laid close to the base wall and to each other. There should be a distance of at least 25-30 cm to the side of them.
	Geotextiles, which must have a density of at least 150 g/m² and a roll width of 2 meters, are laid on top of the insulation layer and sand in the trench. One edge of the geotextile fabric is laid close to the wall; it should line the bottom of the trench and come out of it onto the top layer of soil.
	A drainage pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is laid on the geotextile on the side of the insulation.
	In places where the drainage turns, you can lay a pipe with a turn, or you can use special fittings.
	Granite crushed stone of a fraction of 20-40 mm or washed gravel is poured into the gap between the insulation slabs and the edge of the trench. First, crushed stone is placed under the drainage pipe - about 5 cm. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slopes that it should have (about 2 cm per 1 linear meter of pipe) in the direction of the drain.
	After creating the crushed stone backfill for the drainage pipe, its slope is checked and adjusted, and then a layer of 5-10 cm of the same crushed stone is poured onto it.
	First, the edge of the geotextile that is closest to the base wall is wrapped and laid on the crushed stone.
	And then the other edge, which should partially or completely cover the insulation boards.
	The trench is filled with coarse construction sand to the required level. In any case, the resulting thickness of the already compacted layer should not be less than 20 cm.
	For a drainage pipe that is laid with a slope in the crushed stone layer and geotextile wrap, an outlet is made into a ditch, which must be dug with a slope in the direction drainage well. A sewer pipe in sand filling is laid in the trench.
	The sand is first compacted with a vibrating plate, and then moistened with water and compacted another 2-3 times. The result should be a smooth surface of compacted sand.
	The position of the blind area borders is marked. The marking is done with a cord stretched between pegs driven into the ground. Curbs should be installed so that paving stones or paving slabs are laid in the space between the plinth wall and the edge of the blind area without trimming.
	Under the curbs, recesses are made in the compacted sand layer.
	Curbs are laid on a dense solution of M300 sand concrete. A stretched cord helps to align them in one line and level. The position of the curbs is adjusted either by placing sand-concrete mortar under them, or by tapping a hammer through a wooden block.
	After installing the curbs, they are fixed on both sides in the heel with a sand concrete solution.
	At the same stage, a surface drainage system, namely storm water inlets, is installed. They are installed according to the level of the future paving stones, taking into account its slope. Stormwater inlets are installed in the same way as curbs - on an M300 sand concrete solution. Discharge sewer pipes are immediately laid.
	After the concrete on which the storm water inlets and curbs are installed has hardened and set, coarse construction sand is poured into the gap between them and the base, which is leveled and compacted, and the desired slope is given to its surface. The level of sand should be such that the laid paving stones or paving slabs after laying are flush with the curbs.
	Laying paving stones should begin from some corner. Before this, a thin layer (2-3 cm) of dry cement-sand mixture M300 is poured onto the compacted surface of the sand.
	And then the paving stones are laid according to a pre-selected pattern. When laying, the stones are pushed into place using a rubber hammer. You can learn more about laying paving stones from our portal.
	After laying, the surface of the paving stones is thoroughly swept and a dry cement-sand mixture M300 is sprinkled on it.
	The mixture is spread along the seams of the paving stones with a brush, trowel or spatula, and then the excess is swept up for further use.
	The paving stone surface is watered with water from a watering can. After a few days, you can already walk on the blind area.

Blind areas made of paving stones, which will be subject to significant loads, are made on a concrete base. To do this, instead of sand backfill, a reinforced concrete base with a thickness of at least 10 cm is made in the underlying layer, and paving stones or paving slabs are laid on it through a thin layer (2–5 cm) of cement-sand mixture. For pedestrian areas, the design described in the table is quite sufficient.

Video: Blind area made of paving stones

Video: Blind area of ​​a house made of paving slabs. Part 1. Preparation

Video: Blind area of ​​a house made of paving slabs. Part 2. Installation of the curb

Video: Blind area of ​​a house made of paving slabs. Part 3. Laying paving slabs

Blind area area calculator

For any work involving paving stones, it is very important to know the area of ​​the surface that will be paved. With rectangular areas or straight garden paths, everything is clear, you don’t need to be a professor, but just enough knowledge of mathematics at the elementary school level to multiply the length by the width. In the case of blind areas for a home, a school mathematics curriculum is also sufficient, but in this case it is necessary to divide the entire area into a number of rectangular elements, calculate the area of ​​each individual figure, and then add them up. We invite our readers to make it easier - use a calculator.

The initial data for the calculator is the perimeter of the house, that is, the sum of the lengths of all its sides, the width of the blind area, as well as its configuration, which is expressed in the number of external and internal corners.

A reliable, time-tested method of protecting the foundation from exposure surface waters– installation of a concrete blind area around the house. The undoubted advantage of a concrete blind area is its low cost and ease of manufacture.

100% protection from moisture, which is provided by a concrete blind area with a complete coating, cannot be guaranteed by any material (without arranging a multi-tiered “pie”). The condition of the foundation directly affects the position of the entire structure. Therefore, the foundation needs major protection.

This is precisely the main task of the blind area - protecting the foundation and base of the house. In addition to the barrier, it performs several other functions. For example, it allows you to organize more convenient movement along the blind area and gives the building a finished appearance.

Let's take a step-by-step look at how to properly make a blind area around a concrete house with your own hands. We propose to divide all the stages of arrangement into theoretical and applied.

• In the first part, we will look at what you need to know and prepare before getting started.

• In the second - how to prepare the bed and properly pour the concrete blind area.

Requirements for the blind area and rules for its construction

• width of concrete blind area, according to SNiP 2.02.01-83 should be 200 mm. more than the overhang of roofing material. If there is a drain, its parameters are also taken into account. The same SNiP regulates the width depending on the type of soil. The traditional (optimal) width of the blind area can be considered 1 meter. This width provides freedom of movement and acts as a path around the house;

• length. Since the foundation needs protection along the entire perimeter of the house, it is logical that the blind area should also completely surround the building. The only exception may be the installation site of a concrete porch;

• depth or level of penetration of the blind area should not exceed half of the calculated depth of soil freezing characteristic of a particular region. This parameter can be viewed in the table or you can request information from the architecture department at the location of the object.

  The ability of a concrete blind area to move with the soil gives it its functions. Otherwise, its role will be reduced to draining water, which is not enough to protect the foundation.

  Note. The depth of freezing is affected by the presence of communications in the ground.

• concrete blind area thickness. The minimum thickness of the surface layer is 70-100 mm. If increased operational load is planned, for example, car movement, the thickness can reach up to 150 mm;

• slope of the blind area. SNiP III-10-75 recommends what the slope should be - from 10 to 100 mm per 1 meter of width (i.e. 1-10%). The angle of inclination is directed in the direction opposite to the foundation of the house. Slope requirements depend on regional rainfall levels and soil type. In practice, the slope is taken to be 20-30 mm per 1 m (2-3 degrees). If you do more, then in case of icing, it will be difficult to move along such a blind area;

• border. In the case of a blind area, the border is a decorative element and the decision to install it is made based on the preferences of the home owner and his financial capabilities. However, if bushes are planted in the immediate vicinity of the blind area - “root aggressors” (raspberries, blackberries) or trees that have a powerful superficial root system (poplar, sycamore), then installing a limiter is mandatory;

• plinth height. The standards establish a minimum plinth height of 500 mm for a hard type blind area and a minimum of 300 mm for a soft type. Let us remind you that the blind area around a concrete house is of the rigid type;

• height of the blind area from ground level. It is desirable that the blind area be 50 mm higher above the ground level. This recommendation is due to the fact that water should not accumulate on the edge of the blind area and turn into puddles. In winter, this is fraught with freezing and, accordingly, destruction of the structure.

• concrete blind area design has a specific device diagram, which is shown in the drawing below.

Armed with the above data, you can proceed directly to the installation of a concrete foundation blind area.

How to make a concrete blind area around a house

Preparation of material:

• concrete for blind area. Grade is an indicator of the quality of concrete; its value ranges from 100 to 1000. It indicates the proportion of cement content in concrete. The concrete class ranges from B3.5 to B8 and indicates the strength of concrete. Thus, class B 15 indicates that a concrete cube measuring 15x15x15 cm is capable of withstanding a pressure of 15 MPa.

What brand of concrete is needed for the blind area? To prepare the solution, use cement grade M 200 (class B15).

The parameters (properties) of concrete depending on the brand are shown in the table.

• sand. Which one do you need? River or quarry sand is suitable for making the bottom layer of the pillow. The main thing is that it does not contain large impurities that can damage geotextiles;

• crushed stone (gravel). Crushed stone of fraction 10-20 is suitable for the blind area;

• clay or geotexil for hydraulic locking. In practice, this layer is absent in the base cushion, because concrete drains water well;

• cement for ironing.

Composition of concrete mortar for blind area

If it is not possible to use ready-made concrete, you can mix it yourself. To do this you need to prepare:

• cement for blind area. You should know that the grade of concrete is determined by the grade of cement and its specific gravity as a percentage of the components of the solution. For the blind area, cement M400 Portland cement is used. The cement must be fresh; with each month of storage it loses 5% of its properties. It’s easy to check the freshness; just squeeze a little cement in your fist; if it shrinks into a lump, its shelf life is running out; if it crumbles freely, you can work with it;

Note. What cement is best for blind areas? Naturally fresh and of high quality. This will save on cement consumption and prepare a good concrete solution.

• sand. To prepare concrete, you need to take concrete that has been sifted and washed to remove impurities and soil;

• crushed stone It is advisable to use crushed stone of a fraction of 5-10 mm. At the same time, crushed stone is better than, for example, small pebbles;

• water. Should be at room temperature;

• additives. They are needed to give concrete frost-resistant properties. Liquid glass is often used as an additive.

The tools you will need are a concrete mixer or a mixing container, a shovel, a bucket (it’s better to take a plastic one, it’s easier to clean), a measuring container (for water), a hand-tamping log or a vibrating plate.

Preparation of concrete mortar for blind area

In practice, the solution for the blind area is prepared in portions, after all the preparatory work has been completed. We will provide a ready-made recipe for cement mortar and how to mix it correctly.

The composition of the concrete solution includes: cement, crushed stone, sand, water and various additives that increase its strength. The durability and strength of the blind area depends on the ratio (proportions) of these components.

Note. Components are measured by weight only.

Proportions of solution for blind area

Note. 1 cubic meter of sand is on average equal to 1600 kg, 1 cubic meter of crushed stone is on average equal to 1500 kg.

Depending on the brand of concrete, the proportions will differ. SNiP 82-02-95 regulates the composition of the mixture for producing concrete of a certain grade.

The concrete mixture is very demanding on the amount of water supplied. Its excess reduces the strength of concrete, because removes cement flour to the top layer of the solution. This leads to the fact that the strength is distributed unevenly. In practice, it is calculated that water should be approximately half the amount of cement. More accurate data is contained in the table (water-cement ratio (W/C) for concrete).

The order in which the components are added to the solution also matters. Cement is first poured into a mixing container or concrete mixer and water is added. By mixing, the so-called cement laitance is obtained. Next, the remaining components are added to it. First, sand is poured in small portions, and then crushed stone (gravel).

Note. Professionals advise maintaining an interval of 5 minutes. between feeding components. This way the mixture mixes better.

Technology for constructing a blind area made of concrete with insulation

Step-by-step instruction:

Preparing the base for the blind area. To do this, the top layer of soil is removed, all roots, stones, etc. are removed. Using a blanket herbicide will eliminate activity under the substrate. For example, the drugs Agrokiller or Tornado.

Advice. Considering that the blind area must exceed the edge of the roof slope by 200 mm, it is recommended to use a plumb line to accurately mark the boundary of the blind area.

Marking. To do this, we pull the rope onto the stakes hammered in the corners. To avoid sagging of the rope, you need to install intermediate stakes (at a distance of 5-6 m from each other).

Advice. How to determine the required angle of inclination of the blind area? Craftsmen install additional beacons (stretch a rope) on the base of the house. Fastening is done every 1-1.5 meters.

Hydraulic lock device. To do this, lay fatty clay in a layer of 100-150 mm or cover the bottom with geotextiles (roofing felt, PVC film, advertising banner, etc.). Please note that to prevent the film from tearing, it is better to pour a layer of sand of 50-100 mm at the bottom of the trench. A layer of sand of the same thickness is also poured on top of the film. The sand is leveled, moistened and compacted. In the case of a clay hydraulic lock, there is only one sand layer. When laying the film, you should avoid tension. It must be able to move freely with the ground.

Note. Experts advise making high-quality drainage near the hydraulic lock. To do this, you need to dig a trench 100 mm deep and 200 mm wide and fill it with crushed stone or lay a drainage pipe in it, wrap it with geotextile and fill it with crushed stone. This will increase the rate of water drainage.

It is worth noting that many people ignore this stage of work. In practice, this attitude results in the fact that the water passing through the expansion joint goes directly under the foundation, and when it freezes, it leads to an increase in pressure on it.

Backfilling of crushed stone. The layer thickness varies from 50 to 100 mm. The gravel is leveled and compacted. Since crushed stone is difficult to compact, some recommend using a special grid for laying it, which is used in landscape design for making gravel paths. We note right away that this will increase the cost of the blind area without much need.

Backfilling with sand.

Laying communication pipes. To do this, a depression is made in the sand for pipes and storm drains.

Insulation of the blind area. Expanded polystyrene or penoplex is laid on the compacted sand with which crushed stone and communications are covered. Only hard insulation is suitable for the blind area, but it is afraid of point loads, so it must be laid on a sand cushion.

Advice. Cold bridges can be eliminated by laying insulation in two offset layers.

Reinforcement of concrete blind area. This is done by laying reinforcement mesh with cells of 50x50 or 100x100 mm or by knitting a reinforcement cage.

Advice. Chain-link mesh is not suitable for reinforcement - it is too flexible.

If insulation is not intended, the reinforcing mesh is laid directly on the crushed stone to a height of 20-30 mm. Which will contribute to better distribution of concrete.

Formwork installation. Boards or plywood are installed strictly according to level. To level out the pushing force of concrete, the formwork is reinforced with stakes that are installed on its outer side. During installation, do not forget that the formwork is removable, which means that all seams will be visible after its dismantling. In this case, the blind area will have an ugly appearance. Therefore, when installing boards, you need to ensure that the internal seams are invisible.

Construction of expansion joints. To do this, we install wooden slats and boards (on edge), which are pre-treated with an antiseptic or tarred. The recommended distance between the expansion joints of the blind area is 2-2.5 meters. Expansion joints must be made diagonally in the place where the formwork turns (at the corners). The purpose of the expansion joint is to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete during operation. They are installed level, taking into account the angle of inclination of the formwork, because When pouring concrete, they are guided by them. An alternative to wood can be Guerlain butyl rubber tapes (10 RUR/m) or a hydro-swelling elastic cord, for example, Penebar Rapid SW45 A/B.

How to seal the seams in the blind area?

According to reviews, those who ignored the formation of expansion joints had cracks after the first winter. Many people believe that wood swells and allows moisture to pass through. You can seal the resulting cracks with special sealants, such as TEKTOR 103 mastic (225 rubles/piece), ISOSEAL P-40 (280 rubles/piece).

Pouring a concrete blind area. When pouring concrete, you need to ensure that no air pockets are formed and that the cement mixture evenly fills the entire space. It is important that no bumps or depressions appear when pouring. Their presence will lead to stagnation of water in these places. If it is not possible to do the entire blind area at one time, part of it is poured, and then work is resumed.

Advice. When pouring a blind area, you can use a technique for uniform distribution of concrete - bayoneting. To do this, the concrete is “pierced” with a rod, and the solution fills the entire space.

How to properly pour a concrete blind area around a house - video

Protection of concrete blind area from destruction

Many people are interested in how to cover the concrete blind area around the house. After all, after pouring the solution, the blind area must be protected from heaving, deformation, destruction, and exposure to moisture, rain, and snow. Let's consider how and what is the best way to do this.

Ways to protect the foundation blind area:

Ironing of concrete blind area around the house

How to iron a blind area with your own hands?

• Dry ironing method - freshly poured concrete is sprinkled with a layer of cement (2 mm) followed by grouting. Dry cement binds to the concrete mortar and increases its ability to withstand the effects of water.

• Wet ironing method - 12-14 days after pouring (when the concrete has dried), you need to walk over the surface of the blind area with a cement-sand mortar (1:1) with the addition of lime paste (10% of the volume of the mixture).

Coating the blind area with a primer

Primers are suitable for this deep penetration, such as AURA Unigrund KRAFT (90 rubles). Primer solutions are used when additional finishing is planned. For example, tiling or painting. If this is not in the plans, it is better to use a water repellent, for example, Eskaro Aquastop Waterproof W (1200 rubles) or GKZh-11 (195 rubles/5 l). Concrete hardeners such as Monopol 1 (1,600 rubles/5 kg), Monolit-20M (1,200 rubles/10 l), Protexil (3,600 rubles/20 l) or Ashford Formula ($120/10 l) are gaining popularity.

Protecting the blind area with liquid glass

A solution of liquid glass and cement is a more budget option protective composition(primer, water repellent), providing a similar result. A solution with liquid glass is prepared from a mixture of cement, water and liquid glass in a proportion (ratio) of 1:1:1.

Covering the blind area with a layer of enamel

The enamel must meet certain parameters for frost resistance, vapor permeability, moisture resistance, and environmental friendliness. Polyurethane enamel ELAKOR-PU (220 rubles/kg) has proven itself to be excellent.

Covering the blind area with tiles and stones

Lay tiles (ceramic, clinker, paving), pebbles or natural stone on top of the concrete blind area. In this case, concrete acts as a binding solution.

• It is advisable to install a storm drain near the blind area, which will drain the flowing water and prevent siltation of the area;

• To ensure uniform drying of the poured concrete, the blind area is covered with film. Thus, evaporated moisture will be retained on its surface. Since it is difficult to cover a wide blind area with film, it can be periodically moistened. The time until complete hardening with a blind area thickness of 100 mm is 1.5-2 weeks;

• After the concrete has completely dried, the blind area is removed. You should be careful here, because... Removing the blind area can lead to damage to the edges of the blind area.

This order of work and taking into account all these nuances guarantees the long-term full functioning of the concrete blind area.

Do-it-yourself concrete blind area around the house repair

The most common problems include:

The appearance of cracks in the blind area

How to repair cracks in the blind area?

Elimination depends on the depth of the damage (cracks, crevices, concrete breaks):

• no more than 1 mm. Self-healing is used. Such a crack is not dangerous and is usually rubbed away by friction during walking;

• no more than 3 mm. Involves the use of “cement dough”. Shallow cracks can be sealed (filled) with a liquid cement solution (1 part cement to 1 part water);

• 3-30 mm. Such cracks are considered large. To eliminate them, you can use a special sealant such as the above-mentioned TEKTOR 103, ISOSEAL P-40. You can seal the crack with freshly prepared concrete mortar. However, before this the crack needs to be widened. In cross section it should resemble a cone. Apply primer over the entire area of ​​the crack. Any will do, for example, Ceresit ST-17 (450-500 rubles/10 l). Next, the solution is poured. You can use the so-called hydroseal, a special cement-based solution that hardens in 15 minutes. An example is Lugato 5-Minuten Mortel putty (410 RUR 5 kg)

• crack depth exceeding half the thickness of the blind area, this is already a cracking of concrete and refers to significant damage. It can only be eliminated by expansion followed by pouring new concrete.

Delamination of the surface of the blind area over the entire area

In the language of masters, this process is called concrete dusting or delamination (delamination). The reason for this phenomenon may be several factors. For example, uneven hardening of concrete happens if you pour concrete mortar onto a cold surface (observed when working in early spring) or make the blind area thicker. Increased air content in the concrete mixture. Excess of crushed stone parts in the concrete composition.

What to do if the concrete blind area crumbles?

If the process is just beginning, then the surface should be covered with “cement paste” or a composition that contains liquid glass (proportions: cement, water and liquid glass - 1: 1: 1).

If the damage has reached significant proportions, then radical measures must be taken:

1. determine the boundaries of the damage to prevent its spread;
2. cut out part of the concrete;
3. cover the edges of the blind area with a primer;
4. apply a new layer of solution;
5. cover with film until completely dry.

If you start it, you will have to completely dismantle the blind area and fill in a new one. The measures described above will help extend the life of the blind area and save on alterations and reconstruction.

The cost of installing a concrete blind area without material

And the last thing that interests everyone who wants to order the construction of a blind area is the prices for a concrete blind area. If you entrust the work to craftsmen, then the estimate must contain the costs of the work, which are presented in the table (approximate data as of the end of 2015)

Service - work on the blind area of ​​a private house	Doing the work yourself	The cost of a master’s work per sq. m.
Material price	We do not take into account, because the cost will be the same
Removing the old blind area (dismantling)	0	65
Marking and excavation (depth 600 mm)	0	300
Hydraulic lock made of clay	0	100
Laying film or geotextile	0	40
Backfilling the sand layer + tamping (5 mm.)	0	80
Formation of crushed stone layer (100 mm)	0	80
Installation of a storm drain	0	250
Pipe laying (per m.p.)	0	50
Construction of a concrete blind area (ready-made concrete)	0	300
Construction of a concrete blind area (mixing concrete)	0	650
Total	Saving	About 1200-1400 rubles

Please note that it is unlikely that you will be able to negotiate a significant discount here. After all, this price does not take into account the cost of materials. For a complete picture, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the cost of materials for the production of a concrete blind area per 1 m.

Conclusion

Agree, it’s a good incentive to make a concrete blind area with your own hands. Moreover, from the given instructions it is clear that this work does not require special tools, any special materials, only the desire to protect the foundation of the house with a reliable barrier.

How to make a blind area around the house with your own hands in short time? The blind area is carried out in two layers - the underlying layer and the ceiling. The underlying part is required to obtain a compacted, level base for laying the covering. This layer is made of crushed stone, sand, grit or clay. The last option is considered the best.

Material for the underlying part selected depending on the coverage. Thickness – from 20 to 30 centimeters.

The coating must be waterproof. It is made from paving slabs, concrete, clay, small cobblestones and asphalt. It happens that the blind area is made from a mixture of clay and sand, or clay with crushed stone. Thickness – from 5 to 15 centimeters.

Types of blind area

There are several types of blind area, depending on the material used in manufacturing:

• concrete;
• cobblestone;
• from concrete slabs;
• ground;
• brick;
• asphalt.

Work execution technology

How to properly make a blind area around the house with your own hands? You should start by excavating the soil. A trench is dug around the perimeter of the building; its depth should be approximately 30 cm.

The integrity of the blind area can be damaged by plant roots, so the soil should be treated with herbicides first. Then removable formwork or curb stone is placed along the width of the blind area. The underlying layer is laid down into the trench at a slope.

Laying a concrete blind area

Concrete construction is the most common type of coating.

It is worth noting, that in case of severe frosts the blind area may fail. To prevent this from happening, slats are mounted across the blind area on the edge every 3 meters; they must be treated with bitumen in advance. Next, the solution is poured using concrete and leveled.

Increase service life The blind area is helped by concrete reinforcement. In this case, concrete produces work in compression, and metal in tension. A metal sheathing is installed in increments of 100 by 100 millimeters. Further along the level, cement mortar is poured.

The finished surface is covered with dry concrete and leveled. Then it is covered with a dark film and left for a week, periodically watered with water.

How to inexpensively make a blind area around the house? If you want to reduce costs, you should give preference to a blind area made of reinforced slabs. Their shape is selected depending on the structural features of the roof and the characteristics of the site. The best option– slabs 60x60 centimeters.

When using ready-made slabs as a coating, the work becomes much easier. After laying them on a previously prepared surface, the seams are filled with mortar. If there is a need for this, the blind area is insulated with heat-insulating materials.

The structure made of insulation and slab is placed in such a way that there is an air cushion underneath it. The base for it is impregnated with bitumen and carefully compacted crushed stone.

Slope and width

When constructing a blind area, it is necessary to maintain the required slope and width.

In subsidence soil width can be more than 1 meter, on average it is 80 centimeters. Moreover, it should be 20 centimeters larger compared to the overhang of the cornice.

Slope from the wall buildings and to storm drainage should reach approximately 5°. A storm drain is a groove along the perimeter of the blind area necessary for drainage. Instead, you can build a canal that collects water into a storm well.

Waterproofing and insulation

If your house has a basement or ground floor, it is necessary to waterproof and insulate the blind area. Waterproofing materials suitable for this purpose are bitumen mixtures, PVC and polyethylene films, roofing felt.

Under the waterproofing layer insulation is installed on the ground.

It can be polystyrene foam, foam glass and other materials.

Main functions of the blind area

• Practical function. If the blind area will act as a pedestrian zone, then it should be done taking into account the characteristics of the object and the design loads.
• Protective function. A high-quality blind area reliably protects the foundation of a building from melt water, precipitation, and deformation. It transports water a sufficient distance from the foundation.
• Decorative function. The blind area is a logical continuation of the building. The finishing layer is selected taking into account the style of the house and landscape design.
• Insulation. The thermal insulation properties of a building, if there is a blind area with an insulation structure, increase.

In order for the blind area to fully fulfill its purpose, It's worth following some rules:

1. The slope is formed both during laying of the coating and when installing the underlying layer.
2. Pay attention to the junction of the house wall and the blind area. An expansion joint must remain. The best result is obtained with two layers of special sealant or roofing felt and sealant.
3. The blind area should be carried out continuously around the entire house. Only in this case will the base be reliably protected.
4. The cheapest option for covering is crushed stone laid with compaction. The most reliable is pouring compacted crushed stone with cement mortar.

So, building the correct blind area around the house with my own hands everyone can do it.

However, before starting work, you should decide on the type of blind area, this determines what materials you will need. Do not forget about maintaining the width and slope. If the building has a ground floor or basement, insulation and waterproofing will be required.