DIY jute lampshades. DIY thread lampshade: master class, step-by-step description and recommendations

So, having figured out how a chandelier should be arranged correctly, we take on its main lighting and at the same time decorative elements: lampshade and shade. Reflectors are technologically simpler; their manufacture and fastening to the supporting structure of the chandelier does not cause any difficulties.

The Internet is full of pictures with really very beautiful homemade lamps. However, looking at them, ask yourself: how do you replace a light bulb? The answer is not always found in the primary sources. Methods for fastening lighting elements in lamps, allowing lamp replacement without the use of tools, will be discussed in the next article, but the technological methods described later in this are designed for the fact that the lampshade in this case either moves up, or is removed down, or you can simply climb into it hand.

Materials

In order of increasing complexity (and durability), lampshades and lampshades can be made with your own hands at home from paper, plastic, thread, ready-made tubes of various kinds, twine or yarn, framed with a fabric cover, and stained glass. The last 2 are quite complex, but with a skillful approach to work, the lighting and decorative qualities can surpass expensive store-bought ones.

Making a paper lampshade is the easiest way: from materials other than paper, you will need threads and PVA glue, and from tools - a sewing needle, scissors and, possibly, a sharp mounting knife. However, paper lampshades are fragile and therefore suitable mainly for chandeliers. But a damaged paper lampshade can be easily replaced with a new one.

You can make a paper lamp a little stronger different ways. The simplest way is to make a lampshade-ball from paper strips, gluing them at the poles and among themselves, pos. 1 in Fig. However, the design in this case is uniform: sufficient strength of the product is ensured only and only by its spherical shape.

Paper lampshade elements

Another way is to strengthen the paper itself. He'll ask for a little additional material: copper enameled winding wire with a diameter of 0.25-0.4 mm or threads. In the first case, the lampshade will fit without additional reinforcement for a floor lamp, and in the second for overhead decorative elements you will need a solid supporting base, e.g. from a plastic bottle. The lampshade paper is strengthened with wire as follows:

• On a sheet with a density of 90-140 g/m2. see the contours of the parts are drawn.
• Using a finely sharpened pencil or a mechanical one with a 0.6 mm rod, draw the lines of the rigidity grid. If the lampshade is glued together from several whole or slightly cut sheets, the grid lines should form a seamless pattern.
• Apply a thin layer of PVA glue with a brush.
• When the glue dries to the touch, apply veins - stiffeners - made of wire along the mesh.
• Lubricate the same PVA sheet with a density of 35-60 g/sq. cm, place it on the first one and gently smooth it with your fingers.
• A day later, the parts are cut out with scissors, glued together and painted. In this way you can even imitate the wings of rare species of butterflies, poses. 2; V in this case- Swallowtail Maak.

When using threads, both sheets are taken with a density of up to 60 g/m2. cm. Then, as said, you will need a supporting base, but you can even imitate the texture of rose petals, pos. 3.

Note: a paper lampshade, durable “almost like a real one,” can be made from papier-mâché. The technology, which is quite labor-intensive, is described below, see about lampshades for the kitchen.

Plastics

It’s easy to make a lampshade for a chandelier from disposable plastic cups, fastened with a stapler, see fig. Its lighting qualities are very good, but its appearance is frankly utilitarian. Therefore, it makes sense to use such lampshades in rooms with sufficient high requirements to the quality of lighting, but not to the ceremonial ones. The directional pattern (DP) of a lampshade made from cups is formed by a cardioid pattern.

Lampshade made from plastic glasses

Lampshade made from plastic spoons

A fan pattern with a wide opening, very soft light in the central spot and uniform illumination in the side zone allows you to achieve a lamp with a lampshade-cone (or pineapple?) from bitten plastic spoons on a base in the form of a PET bottle with a cut off bottom, see fig. Effective light softening is achieved by the spoons acting as translucent bowl-shaped reflectors. They are glued to the bottle and glued together with silicone glue, mounting or a glue gun. Cyanoacrylate glue is also suitable, but it must be thick. Cheap “superglue” is very fluid, drips will spread everywhere and spoil the glossy surfaces of spoons.

You can also make good lampshades from bottles alone. For example, a sphere from their bottoms, fastened with a stapler, like stopper cups (see the figure for a mini-master class), will give a cardioid pattern; however, compared to the “established” one, it is noticeably distorted. But at the dacha or in utility rooms a chandelier made from bottoms will come in handy.

Lampshade made from bottle bottoms

Lampshade hedgehog from plastic bottles

Romantic soft light, somewhat spotty, but within acceptable limits, will be provided by a globe lamp made of bottle “hedgehogs”; however, they look more like blooming sea anemones - sea anemones, see photo on the right. It’s not difficult to make the “hedgehogs” themselves: the bottoms of the bottles are cut off, the side walls are cut to the scar before narrowing into the neck, the strips are wrapped around the neck, glued with drops of glue and secured with thread or tape for reliability. However, to assemble the “hedgehogs” into a lampshade, you will need a transparent spherical base. It is made in the same way as a lampshade made from threads (see below), only the threads are white nylon or propylene no thicker than 20 gauge, and instead of PVA, colorless water-based acrylic varnish is used.

A lampshade made from leaves cut from bottles allows you to achieve very uniform illumination and is very decorative, see fig. It is assembled on a temporary spherical mandrel, see below.

Lampshade made from homemade plastic leaves

The step-by-step master class in this case is also simple, but requires patience, accuracy, some additional tool and possibly material:

• We are preparing a soldering iron with a nickel-plated bronze tip (for dry soldering) at 40 W or with a regular copper tip at 25 W;
• If the tip is copper, you will also need Teflon (fluoroplastic) tape 0.06 mm wide, 60-80 mm wide;
• Cut out leaves from the bottle. From a lighting engineering point of view, pale green or light brown are better;
• Using a soldering iron tip (copper - through the film) slightly melt the edges of the leaves, otherwise they will look unnatural;
• Using the tip of the sting (copper also through the film) we “draw” the veins;
• Using the flat of the sting between the veins, with light touches, we slightly melt the surface so that it is, like real leaves, not completely smooth;
• Again, using the tip of the sting, going deeper, but without piercing, we bring out the central vein. It is convenient to do this on a soft, heat-resistant backing (calico or felt in several layers will do);
• We place a thread in the central vein and fuse it by “screwing” the side roll onto the hollow;
• If required, we form complex leaves by tying together threads of leaves;
• Having laid out the leaves on the film (now any kind), we impregnate the threads using a pipette acrylic varnish. Once it dries, the foliage is ready for assembly.

Manufacturing procedure New Year's decorations and lamps made from threads has been described many times in RuNet. For example - video:

Video: DIY twine/thread lampshade

Here we can only note that, firstly, you will need at least 100 m of thread for a medium-sized lampshade. Secondly, there is no point in using inflatable balls as mandrels: after 10-20 turns, under the pressure of the stretched threads, the ball protrudes where it is not necessary, and the end result is something inconceivable. Thirdly, there is also no need to soak the threads in flour paste in advance: the product will turn out fragile and not moisture-resistant.

As a mandrel when making a lampshade from threads, it is best to use a tightly inflated chamber from a sports ball or a durable silicone beach ball, inflated from a pump through a nipple. The mandrel is lubricated several times with petroleum jelly (lanolin), carefully rubbing it with your hands. It won't harm the ball in any way; on the contrary, it will prolong his life.

Device for making a lampshade from threads

Next, the thread is wound onto the mandrel, continuously pulled through a simple device, see fig. This mini-impregnation bath, so that it does not accidentally crawl, tip over or spill glue on something, is secured on the table with tape; convenient double-sided. The glass is first pierced with a needle and thread, then PVA or acrylic varnish is poured and shaken, tightening as necessary. Usually the thread goes through the bath itself, because glue until it dries is a good lubricant.

When winding, do not forget to leave a window for entering the cable and cartridge - the strength of the cut thread ball drops sharply! A day later, after its completion, the air is released from the mandrel and pulled out through the same window. “Vase-green”, it sticks to the threads very rarely and weakly: you can tear it off by slightly pulling or pressing it with your finger, but the product remains intact.

Note: Instead of thread, you can use jute, sisal or propylene twine, but there will be a lampshade for it best use, see below.

And where is all this going?

Ball lamps, see fig., are suitable for children's rooms, because... form an even soft light. The one on the left is made from paper cupcake wrappers - on a yarn ball base. Threads – propylene or thin colorless nylon; binder – acrylic varnish. White in the spool, after impregnation with varnish, such threads become almost transparent. The lampshade-ball made from cups (on the right) is not so interesting, because... The dishes are all the same, but it is also more difficult to tear it apart.

Chandelier lampshades for children's rooms

A hemispherical lampshade made from the same cups would be more suitable for the hallway, see fig. on right. With a low lamp power (more precisely, its luminous flux) it will give a bright spot below and acceptable illumination of the rest of the room, so you can use low-heating incandescent lamps of 15-30 W. The fact is that the resource of energy-saving lamps and LED lamps decreases sharply when switched on/off frequently. And a low-power incandescent lamp, especially in the hallway where the light is not constantly on, will not significantly increase electricity costs.

Chandelier lampshade in the hallway

A special case is the kitchen. The lighting requirements for it are set out in the previous article. But the lampshade in the kitchen quickly gets dirty, and the soot eats away firmly. Let us remember: bright light promotes condensation and bituminization of vapors of organic compounds. This is the deposition of soot; the lampshade is illuminated most brightly.

The simplest solution is a disposable paper lampshade. “Bump”, as in pos. 1 pic. below will give just the right type of lighting in the kitchen, but you will have to redo it quite often. It is better to mold a papier-mâché lampshade on a suitable frame, pos. 2. After varnishing with acrylic varnish, it can be carefully washed with a cloth and dishwashing detergent, and painted with a forge patina, it will look like forged self made and certainly not on some old newspapers.

Lampshades for kitchen lamps

But the lampshade for pos. 3 – juice straws glued to the bottle – an example of a bad solution. Such a lampshade will provide ideal light for the kitchen (the straws also work partly as light guides), but it will get dirty quickly, you can’t clean it properly, and the product is labor-intensive. Plastic reflectors for kitchen lamps for local lighting are best made from reusable plastic dishes, pos. 4, it is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to clean. Cups with handles and saucers are, of course, a thing design solution, but bowls without a pattern are what you need.

How to make papier-mâché?

Papier-mâché material is useful for many purposes, so let us recall the technology of its preparation and use:

• Old newspapers, or, better yet, the cheapest unglued writing paper are torn into shreds about the size of a fingernail thumb. You will need a lot of paper!
• Fill a suitable container with scraps to the top; say, a liter glass jar.
• 1/3-1/5 by volume of PVA is diluted in boiling water.
• While the solution has not cooled, pour it into the paper pulp.
• Stir until the paper completely dissolves into fibers.
• Once the papier-mâché has cooled, pour it into a consumable container or use it immediately. Paper paste can be stored for up to 6 months. in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.
• Prepare the next portion in the same way.
• If the paper paste goes into use right away, you can add the next one to the stuck area of ​​the mandrel while the previous one is still wet and crumpled with your fingers. If you apply it dry, the product, when dry, may fall apart into “cakes”.
• The workpiece is ready for varnishing, painting, etc. after a week of drying at a temperature not lower than 22 degrees. The air temperature around the workpiece must be the same on all sides! Dry on a radiator, convector, in direct sunlight or infrared emitter it is forbidden!

Tubes

Lampshades and shades from sections of tubes are most often made for nightlights and lamps in the bedroom: due to round section they always have a significant refraction of light, which can be very intimate and romantic, but in most cases it is undesirable for permanent and working lighting. Lampshades made of translucent tubes also provide a rather dappled light, see figure; if you use pieces of thin transparent PVC hose, then the play of light will turn out very beautiful, but you don’t need to look at it for a long time, much less read or sew in such light.

Tube lampshade

Paper and other fibrous materials refract light little, but tubes made from them are not strong in themselves. For example, a lampshade made of newspaper tubes it is better to do it on a frame, see below: just because they wrinkle easily, thin paper tubes are an excellent material for weaving. As for the lighting properties, paper, especially clean paper, has excellent ones.

Lampshade on frame

Now let's move on to lampshades that are suitable anywhere, incl. and for table lamp, which can be pushed to the floor with an elbow. In addition, we will set the condition that the lampshade covering can be washed, cleaned, and changed at will. Therefore, we do not touch glass or solid hard plastic lampshades; Besides, you can’t make them at home yourself. That is, we will work on lampshades on a frame with soft lining.

About fabrics for lampshades

It is preferable to sew the decorative light cover of the lampshade from fabric with fleecy threads, i.e. natural. Due to diffraction on smooth synthetic threads, the light penetrating through such a lampshade may be hard. Choosing fabric for a lampshade by eye is not difficult: through the sample, turning it smoothly, look at some compact bright light source; preferably LED, because it gives the most coherent, i.e. ordered, light. The selection criterion is simple: the less observed under different angles The more visible the moiré fringes, the better the fabric.

About restoring the lampshade

The lampshade frame is quite labor-intensive and technologically complex, so first you need to look around the household to see if there is a lampshade from an old lamp lying around somewhere. Straightening it, repairing it and updating the lampshade with a new cover will be easier than making the frame from scratch.

Homemade tool for measuring large diameters

The discovered “basket” may turn out to be of a very elaborate shape, and to create patterns (see below) you will need to accurately measure its diameters in several places. In this case, a homemade caliper made from 3 wooden slats and a pair of drawing squares will help out. Of course, it will not give the accuracy of a factory rod, but achievable (+/–1 mm) is enough for cutting and sewing work. And an idea of ​​the capabilities of such a tool is given in Fig.

The measurement procedure is a 2-step procedure: marks are made with a pencil on the sponges where they touch the object, and then the size is taken between the marks with a tape measure. In order for the movable sponge to glide more smoothly, and, accordingly, the measurement to be more accurate, you need to place a fluoroplastic film under the rubber bands holding it. To measure small diameters, the jaws are turned over with the squares facing out.

Constructing a pattern

Now we remove the necessary diameters: the lower and upper hoops (D1 and D11 in position 1 in the figure), the largest and smallest on the belts (D2, D6, D10), in places of kinks, i.e. where the curvature of the generatrix changes sign (D4, D8) and at kinks (D5). We take the others more or less evenly between the mandatory ones.

Constructing a lampshade pattern

The diameters of the pattern of 6 wedges will, taking into account the tightening of the fabric, be equal to half the measured diameters (item 2). If there are supposed to be more or fewer wedges of the finished sleeve, proportionally change the proportion of the diameter in the corresponding diameter of the pattern. But it’s too early to cut and sew.

There at pos. 2 it can be seen that the seaming allowance is not geometrically completely similar to the template. In knot I (kink inward) this is not so bad: you can sew on a drawstring sleeve and tighten the seam with a cord. If the decor of the lampshade involves ruffles, frills, scallops, etc., then perhaps this is how it should be: small folds will fall into place, and the cord will not be visible at a break in the contour.

However, on the shelf of the contour (node ​​II), whatever one may say, it is in no way possible to give an allowance so that the seam does not “run away”. In higher geometry it is proven why, but we don’t need to go into this jungle: we’ll just cut paper template according to “capricious” diameters at breaks and shelves (item 3).

Sewing a cover

Now, how to sew a lampshade using our patterns? First, individual parts of the sleeve are sewn; in this case, bottom, middle and top. Then the widest adjacent part (here the middle) is sewn to the widest belt (bottom). Next, the 2 parts that are next in width are sewn together in the same way, etc. The point is that the shortest transverse seam (we have Seam 2) is sewn last. In this sample, after sewing the bottom to the middle, the top is sewn to them. The sewing of the cover is completed by trimming off the excess allowances, except for the lower and upper hems. The edges must be trimmed.

Frame covering

The next stage is placing the cover on the frame. This is where the machine can be put in the closet: the work is entirely manual. Step by step covering the lampshade frame with a cover is done as follows:

• The cover is turned inside out (it is probably clear that it was sewn from the inside out) and put on the frame;
• Wrap it inside and stitch the top flap;
• Pull and trim the fabric to the first bend (here D8). If there was no hoop in the original sample, it must be installed in advance, see below;
• Baste the fabric to the edges of the frame from top to bottom, alternately, and to the hoop at the bend;
• Repeat paragraphs. 3 and 4 to the next bend (now D5), and so on to the bottom hoop;
• Wrap and stitch the bottom flap.

How it works simple frame lampshade of a table lamp or floor lamp, visible in pos. 1 pic. The pendant for the chandelier is different in that the ring will be at the top, the extensions from it will go to the upper hoop, and then additional holes are needed in the ring for attaching the pendant.

Lampshade frame structure

The ring is cut out of well-soldered and fairly durable sheet metal (bronze, brass, galvanized steel 0.4-2 mm thick) or durable plastic from 1 mm. A computer disk is suitable; for the E10 cartridge, you will only need to drill holes in it for braces and fasteners. The main dimensions of the ring for the E27 cartridge with fastening with union shaped nuts (item 3) are given in item. 2. But making a ring for fastening in the gap between the body and the clamp of the cartridge with a skirt (item 4) is unacceptable! Such cartridges are attached only with a threaded fitting in the lid!

How the stretchers are attached to the ring is shown in pos. 5: their blanks are not bent completely with a hook, inserted into the mounting holes and carefully pressed with pliers. Then, if the ring is metal, solder it (see below). If it is plastic, fix it with drops of superglue or silicone.

Soldered assembly

Frame parts are made of plastic steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm or bicycle spokes. The latter are much stronger, do not rust and do not require painting, but they need to be bent carefully and they are less soldered. To solder the frame you will need:

• A soldering iron of at least 65 W (preferably 100-150 W).
• 6% solution of orthophosphoric acid. Sold for soldering in radio stores and construction stores. Phosphoric acid is also available as food supplement E338 in the form of needle-shaped, colorless, hygroscopic crystals.
• Flux paste (gel for soldering), always with borax.
• Thin, 0.15-0.35 mm, bare copper wire. You can take strands from an electrical wire.
• Solder POS-30 or POS-40. They are refractory (that’s why you need a powerful soldering iron), but much stronger than POS-61 and other low-melting ones.

Note: phosphoric acid of medium strength does not emit highly toxic and/or caustic fumes. But all the same, when working with it you need to take precautions - wear safety glasses and gloves (household latex ones will do).

The key procedures for assembling a soldered frame are shown in Fig.

Soldering steel parts

The brazed steel frame is assembled in stages as follows:

• The ends of the linear blanks are kept in acid for 3-4 minutes (item 1), and then rinsed in water (item 2). You need at least 1 liter of water, and it must be changed after 4-5 washes.
• If the soldering is in the middle or the part is bent, soak a clean white rag in acid and wrap it around the soldering area. Hold for about half a minute, then rinse the rag in acid, wrap it around the soldering area again, and so on until the total time of exposure of the acid to the metal reaches the same 3-4 minutes. After acid treatment, the part is then washed under running water for 1-2 minutes.
• Without touching the treated areas with your bare fingers, the frame is completely assembled without soldering: the soldering areas are butted tightly, but not tightly, i.e. with gaps between turns of 1.5-2 mm, wrapped with copper wire, pos. 3 and 4, and apply 2-3 drops of flux paste to each joint. The soldering areas at the cross parts of the parts are wrapped with 2-3 turns of copper wire crosswise and fluxed with 1-2 drops.
• Semi-dry, i.e. without a hanging drop of solder, use a soldering iron tip to heat the soldering areas until the flux spreads over all the cracks, pos. 5. There is no need to heat the flux until the flux boils and vapor appears. Also, the final result will be better if you heat the flux with a separate soldering iron with a dry bronze nickel-plated tip.
• Take a drop of solder, apply it to the soldering area (item 6) and heat until it flows everywhere, like flux before. The excess solder hanging below is carefully removed with a soldering iron tip. It is impossible to apply unmelted solder in the form of a flexible wire, and refractory solders are produced mainly in rods.

Fabric or twine?

Propylene packaging twine and paper straws. If the lampshade is made from woven twine or newspaper tubes, it will give an even, soft light, and complex cutting and sewing work will be eliminated. But the frame for a wicker lampshade must, firstly, have at least 10-12 ribs evenly spaced around the circumference.

Note: if the frame is of a simple shape, then only 3-4 ribs can be load-bearing (steel). Let the rest be made of straw; they are glued to the upper and lower hoops.

Secondly, to create rims at the top and bottom, respectively. the trains are either made double in height, with an interval of 2-3 cm, or strips are attached to them thin metal or hard plastic of the same width. Headbands are needed for decorative reasons: a solid one is wrapped with twine or a tube, and if the headband is double, the weave can be made in a figure eight. The entire side surface is woven like a basket.

Stained glass lampshade

Stained glass lampshades generate light flux mainly by refraction, so they are more suitable for the living room.

stained glass lampshades and lampshades

Stained glass fragments are made from rhinestones, faceted or cabochons. A stained glass lampshade is assembled on a heat-resistant frame (for example, a steel bucket) using the Tiffany technique. But compared to stained glass for a window or door, since the connections of the elements are not solid, but point-based, there are significant differences:

• Only strong, refractory solder is used, the same as for the lampshade frame, as well as flux with borax.
• Before soldering, the framing of rhinestones is made only from special copper foil - folia - 3-15 mm wide, depending on the width of the crystal rim.
• The protective film is removed from the foil immediately before applying it to the crystal; You cannot touch the outer (soldered) surface of the foil with bare hands!
• Also, you can’t put off soldering foil-wrapped rhinestones until tomorrow: the copper will have time to oxidize, and the joints will turn out to be fragile.
• Upon completion of soldering and thorough washing of flux residues (with a rag with alcohol; then with distilled water), the soldering is copper-plated by applying a thick blue solution of copper sulfate with a brush.
• The remaining vitriol is washed off under running water. You cannot rub with a brush or even cotton wool, because... The copper film on the solder is very thin.

A small surprise - about New Year's chandeliers and lampshades

New Year is coming, it's time to make Christmas tree decorations and decorations. And - a New Year's chandelier. A chandelier? Yes. Remember how the festive mood drops if the overhead light is turned on in the room with the Christmas tree. No matter what, New Year’s lighting should correspond to the spirit of the holiday. Let's put off lighting technology until serious days; nothing from the festive light will happen to us in a few evenings. It’s time for business, but it’s also time for fun.

New Year's chandeliers

Usually christmas chandelier– a Christmas wreath with light bulbs woven into it attached to the chandelier in the living room. But do electrical installation work at altitude in the pre-holiday bustle, even an experienced electrician would not be needed. And what if the Christmas tree is in the nursery, where the chandelier is made of paper? Then you can at least buy inexpensive plastic blanks for Christmas tree balls, a garland with colorless light bulbs, stuff them into the balls, and hang such a heap (on the left in the figure) where it is more convenient.

If the design of an “everyday” chandelier is suitable, you can screw candle lamps into it and decorate it with the same balls or, for example, painted pine cones, on the right there. Or you can try a little and make a New Year's jasmine chandelier with your own hands, as in the video below. New Year is New Year, whatever you say.

When you want to change the decor in your apartment and add a little originality to it, start with the little things. Try changing the lampshade, and you will be surprised at the transformation of your family nest.

And if you manage to find an original model that differs from analogues, then the changes will impress not only you, but also your guests.

True, unique lampshades cost a lot of money, because you can’t buy one-piece works by famous artists for pennies.

But no one is stopping you from creating your own unique masterpiece from cheap and sometimes even waste materials, which will look much better than the samples presented in the store.

All you need are simple materials, a little patience and a flight of imagination, and we will tell you how to make a lampshade with your own hands.

Materials

You can create a masterpiece from everything you have at hand: fabric, paper, thread, twine, wire, plastic bottle, beads or beads.

In general, absolutely everything is suitable, even what you usually throw in the trash bag.

Don't believe me? Just look at the photo of the lampshade.

Frame

If you have a frame from an old lampshade, then that's just great.

However, don’t be upset if you don’t find one, because you can create a frame yourself from ordinary wire.

Copper, aluminum, steel - anything that you can independently combine into a single structure will do.

The metal frame of a classic lampshade consists of three rings and six jumpers between them. The small ring is a holder, which is connected by three jumpers to a ring of a larger diameter.

The same, in turn, is connected by jumpers to the last ring. The following photos will help you understand the design.

From fabric

When you have a frame for a lampshade, the easiest way to create your masterpiece is to wrap the base in fabric. For this you will need:

• paper (newspaper);
• scissors;
• textile;
• chalk or pencil;
• threads

Wrap the frame with newspaper in such a way as to form a pattern out of it. Then transfer the resulting shape onto the fabric using chalk, adding 1 cm to the seam on each side.

Make a pattern, cut off the edges and sew the sides, forming a cover for the base of the future lampshade. We bend the upper and lower edges of the “cover” in such a way as to close the frame rings and secure them with a seam.

Note!

Voila, your lampshade for the floor lamp is almost ready. All that remains is to add a few highlights to your taste, making it unique.

From threads

How to make a lampshade when there is no frame? As easy as pie.

Take a balloon without drawings, glue, thread, marker and start creating.

First you need to inflate the balloon and mark on it the upper and lower boundaries of your future masterpiece. Then take the threads and wrap them around the ball, trying not to protrude beyond the marked contours.

Apply glue diluted with water 1:1 to each layer of thread. When the thickness of the wound thread satisfies you, fix the cut edge and hang the ball to dry. After 3-4 hours the threads will dry. Then pierce the ball and carefully detach it from the walls of the finished lampshade.

Leaves and flower petals woven between layers of threads can add additional charm to a thread lampshade.

Note!

A ball decorated with sparkling drops of beads also looks original. In general, watch and be inspired.

From paper

Ordinary sheets of office paper, glossy magazines, a cheap newspaper, an unnecessary book or an ordinary notebook, a paper towel or napkin - these are all future lampshades.

It doesn’t matter whether there is a frame or not, the main thing is that you have scissors, glue and paper. A thousand and one versions of such lampshades can be described with the words “cut and stick”.

The main thing is not to forget a few simple rules:

• It is safest to use a paper lampshade together with economy light bulbs, which heat up significantly less than incandescent bulbs;
• the diameter of the lampshade should be large so that the paper does not heat up excessively;
• for a light room you can make a lampshade from thick paper, but for a dark room you need a thin one that transmits light well;
• be careful with color. For example, red or yellow paper will add warmth to the room, green and blue will add coldness.

Well, that's all. Charge yourself with new ideas, arm yourself with the means at hand and move forward to easy changes that will bring warmth and comfort to your home.

Note!

DIY lampshade photo

Comfort, convenience and style are the three pillars on which the design of any house or apartment is based. As you know, a cozy homely atmosphere that you so want to immerse yourself in after a difficult working day, consists of trifles and details that are insignificant at first glance. Someone uses the services of a designer to create the long-awaited feeling cozy home, and someone is trying to create a miracle with their own hands.

DIY chandelier

If you also decide to change something in your home, to add a touch of stylish originality to the design of your home, then we offer you a detailed master class “Lampshade made of threads and hot air balloon" Threaded balls will look very impressive both in a minimalist living room and in a bright children's room, where there is a magical mess.

Also, the advantage of this idea is that you will have to spend a minimum on the product. A thread lampshade will cost mere pennies, but it will look like a stylish, unusual and effective designer decoration.

You can make one large globe lampshade and hang it in your living room. You can make several small ball lamps and decorate your bedroom with them. White balls without light bulbs can be just a stylish addition to New Year's decor. There are a lot of options. If you choose the right colors and sizes, and show a little imagination, then a thread lampshade will fit very harmoniously into any interior.

What you will need

Inflate the balloon

First, decide on the sizes. You must understand exactly how many balls you need and what type of thread lampshade should be. Carefully inflate the balloon until the desired shape. Try to tie the ball, as they say, tightly. If you tie the base of the balloon too loosely, the balloon will deflate while the glue dries. As a result, you will get a shapeless circle, not a circle, which is completely unsuitable for decorating your home.

Remembering elementary school

Do you remember how at school they made animals using the papier-mâché method? But if back then we used ordinary sheets of paper, applying them to a mold soaked in glue, now paper will be replaced by yarn.

Pour the glue into a specially prepared spacious container. We put on rubber gloves to protect the manicure and skin of the hands from the effects of glue. We begin to dip the yarn gradually into glue. You could even say that it’s not just dipping, but soaking the threads. They should be very well saturated with it.

Some people use glue in jars. Make a hole there and pass a thread through it. There are a lot of options on the Internet on how to wet threads and how to make a lampshade from threads with your own hands. The master class we offer recommends using a glue container.

According to the advice of experts, according to individual reviews of housewives who have already decorated their homes with lamps made of threads, this is more convenient option. In addition, soaking all the threads at once is much more convenient than sitting and passing three skeins through a jar of glue. Saving time and effort is no small matter.

Attach the thread

When the thread is well saturated with glue, it can be attached to the ball. First, we fix it at the base of the ball. Knit tightly, make knots. Don't be afraid that the thread will stand out at the top or the ends will stick out noticeably. After everything is dry, unnecessary details just remove it with scissors.

And now comes the most creative moment. When the base of the thread and the ball are firmly tied together, you can begin to wind the thread around the ball itself. You can do this in any order. Appearance The lampshade will depend on the size of the thread you chose, its color and the winding option.

Tip: if you are making a lampshade from threads and a ball for the living room or children's room, where there should be more light, then try to wind the threads not too close to each other. So the weaving will be chaotic, but not continuous. If the lampshade is being prepared to create a romantic atmosphere in the bedroom, then you can “darken” it, that is, wind the threads more tightly together.

When to stop? We recommend winding the thread until the ball is almost completely out of sight. As a rule, four to five layers of thread are enough for this. Also try to ensure that the end of the winding is on the top of the ball. This is where you will secure the end of the thread.

For extra strength, you can walk over the wound threads with a layer of PVA glue, applying it with a brush.

How to dry a ball

It is recommended to hang the ball so that it does not lose its shape. If this is not possible, then find a large container and place a ball there. This can be a round basin or a deep pan. We wait a day until the product is completely dry.

And the balloon burst

After everything has dried, you can burst the balloon. This shouldn't cause any difficulties.

Tip: before starting the process of winding yarn, lubricate the base with a thin layer of Vaseline or degrease the surface with an alcohol solution. This will allow the strings to easily move away from the ball when you pop it.

Let there be light!

So, you already know how to make a lampshade from threads and a ball. There is little left to do - fix our product on the ceiling. To do this, take a light bulb and screw it into the lighting fixture. Secure the fittings using pipe cleaners inside the lampshade. Then it remains to adjust the length of the wire. It is necessary that the lighting element be strictly in the center of your thread creation.

We attach the new light fixture to the ceiling hook. Turn on the light and enjoy your work.

There is no doubt that properly executed kitchen lighting sets the tone for the entire interior. A chandelier can become the central element in this cozy and warm room.

Using scrap materials - or even waste - you can make a lampshade from threads, an eco-style lamp from jute twine or plastic bottles, or you can make a real masterpiece – beautiful chandelier from wooden or glass beads.

You can also not only hang a lamp made by yourself in the kitchen or dining area, but also give it to your loved ones as a gift.

Method 1. From scrap materials - anyone can do it!

The simplest DIY lamp is made from threads. Indeed, even a child can handle such a design. So, to make a chandelier from threads, we will need:

• Threads - you can take regular jute twine or thick cotton threads, total length at least 100 meters, the color is chosen based on your imagination and the existing interior;
• PVA glue and brush for applying it;
• Petrolatum;
• 2 balloon– one for work, the second for testing; It is better to take a round ball, not an ordinary one, then the shape of the lamp will be the correct shape.

Advice! A children's or rubber beach ball will also work. For very large lamps, a fitball, for example, is suitable.

Work on creating a ball of thread is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Inflating the balloon required sizes. Do not forget that the resulting lampshade made of threads will repeat the shape of the ball. Using a marker, draw one or two circles at the top and bottom (more at the bottom).
2. Pour glue into a container and carefully process the threads. And the ball itself can be coated with Vaseline with a brush.

Advice! You shouldn’t apply glue to all the threads at once - it’s better to move along the winding area.

1. Next comes winding the threads around the ball, taking into account the drawn holes - the density of the winding determines how your lampshade will turn out in the end.

1. After the ball is wrapped, you need to leave the future chandelier to dry for at least 24 hours.
2. The ball bursts and its remains are easily removed from the now solid structure. The result was a lampshade made of solid threads.
3. A hole is cut at the top to accommodate the cartridge.
4. You need to check the strength - another balloon is inserted into the lamp and inflated. This will demonstrate the flexibility of the design.

In this way, you can also create local lighting in the kitchen by creating several lamps from threads with your own hands. Or you can hang it in the dining area, as shown in the photo.

Do not forget that for a ball of thread you can make additional decor in the form of interesting coloring, beads, butterflies or artificial flowers, or you can make a whole bunch of balls of different sizes.

Using the same principle, you can come up with your own unique lamp design. For example, from lace, or ceiling lamp as in the photo below.

Method 2. Creating a masterpiece - you need to try!

You can get excellent kitchen lighting if you make your own lamp from beads or fabric. You will get a lamp in style or a real candelabra chandelier.

For this job you will need:

• An old hoop, garden basket, hanging metal planter, or wire to create a frame;
• Decorative chains;
• Beads, beads, ribbons, strong threads;
• Lamp socket.

The lamp will be a two- or three-level structure of rings located one above the other and connected by chains or wire.

Rings can be taken different sizes, creating a lampshade in the spirit of a vintage classic, or the same - this is exactly the kind of lighting that is performed in.

The base of the lamp is certainly painted, wrapped or decorated, after which they begin to string the beads.

The consumption of beads in this project is as follows:

Bottom part: beads with a diameter of 16 mm, 15 pcs. on a thread;

Upper part: beads with a diameter of 12 mm, 31-32 pcs. on the thread.

Here you can vary the degree of tension and the number of threads.

Advice! The work should be carried out by first hanging the chandelier and inserting a socket into it.

By analogy, you can create a chandelier from artificial fruits for the kitchen. And subdued lighting will be achieved if you use fabric to cover the frame. As a rule, such a lampshade is made for country and country styles.

Method 3. Lamps made from waste materials - for a modern kitchen!

Most original lamp can be made from this waste material, like plastic bottles and disposable spoons - they are beautiful, cheap and environmentally friendly!

We make a lampshade in a minimalist style and - no additional decorations from threads or beads, only matte white or colored plastic. To make such dim kitchen lighting with your own hands, we will need:

• Base made from a 5-liter plastic bottle;
• Cartridge with wire and lamp;
• Glue for high-quality fixation;
• Lots of disposable spoons.

To make a chandelier with your own hands, cut out the bottom of the bottle and cut off the handles of the spoons (not completely, so that a small handle remains). Using glue, we fix the cut spoons on the base bottle. They need to be placed evenly, in a row, then the lampshade will look attractive.

Advice! Each next row overlaps, without gaps.

The resulting chandelier will resemble fish scales. However, it should be remembered that this design is quite dense, which means that additional lighting will definitely be needed in the kitchen.

The shape of the lamp can be different, for example, in the form of a lotus.

You can also make such decorations from disposable spoons.

A lamp made from plastic bottles, or rather from their bottoms, made with your own hands, may seem like lace or consisting of many small flowers.

Advice! Such a lampshade can be made not white, but colored - which means you need to take colored bottles or paint it with paint original color: copper, gold, steel, pink, black, etc.

The resulting lampshade can be hung in the kitchen or above the dining table.

Let your kitchen be cozy and bright! We wish you creative success and present some more wonderful ideas for making kitchen lamps with your own hands from improvised materials.

Various handmade products have become extremely popular in recent years, and this trend will only increase in the coming years. I'll tell you how to make a stylish lampshade using inexpensive materials. The configuration and dimensions of the products can be very different, the main thing is to understand the process, and you can bring very original ideas to life.

Workflow Stages

If you think that the work is difficult and you need to have certain skills, then you are very mistaken. The option I described is available to any person, even if he has never engaged in such activities. The main thing is to have everything you need at hand and spend an hour of your time on the work.

Required materials and tools

Let's figure out what we need for work. The list is approximate, and you can change individual elements in it, the main thing is to understand what will be used and for what:

Of all of the above, pay special attention to the quality of the glue, since it determines how reliable the product will be.

How a lampshade is made

Now let’s figure out the sequence in which the work is performed:

• First of all, take our container, which will serve as a mold, place it bottom up and cover it with cling film. The film should cover all surfaces to prevent glue from getting on them. There is no particular need for accuracy here, the main thing is to press the material tightly over the entire area;

• Next, you need to pour the glue into a container of a suitable size, since we will soak the blanks for our lampshade in it;
• As for the blanks, pieces of twine 40-50 cm long are cut for them, their quantity depends on the size of the structure, but it is important to remember one simple truth: the more ropes there are on the surface, the better the product will look;
• Another important nuance– you need to unscrew the fastening washer from the cartridge, place it in the middle of the bowl, in the place where the structure will be attached, and use a pen or felt-tip pen to draw the diameter so as not to glue the rope where the hole should be;

• The ropes must be soaked in PVA, they must be saturated with the composition, this will allow you to fasten them as necessary. The twine prepared in this way acquires very high flexibility, which is also important;
• The gluing is done in a chaotic manner, the more bends and weaves you get, the better the final result will look. You simply take one piece of rope at a time and press it against the surface, trying to create attractive bends. Naturally, it is not recommended to enter the marked hole, since you will need to subsequently assemble the structure;

• The work is carried out until the lampshade is ready; if during the process you realized that there are too few ropes, it’s okay - cut more and add. It is important that the ends do not stick out anywhere; it is best to wrap them around the bends so that they are not visible at all;

• The product must be left until the glue has completely dried; most often, gluing the twine is done on one day, and the rest of the work on the second. Just touch the lampshade: if you feel moisture in some areas, it is better to leave it to dry for some more time;
• When the element has dried, you need to remove the bowl from the middle; this is easy to do. Next, you need to separate the film from the twine; it comes off quite easily; it is important to carry out this work carefully so as not to damage the structure. If necessary, you can cut off heavily stuck pieces with scissors;