Table frame made of profile. Kitchen worktop on a metal frame, lined with porcelain tiles

Professional processing and the production of wooden parts is only possible using a milling machine. This tool can be fully used in a special installation. This is what a milling table is. This installation is rare, and those options that are on sale are quite expensive. There is no point in spending a lot of money on purchasing this design, since you can make it yourself.

Milling table: purpose, types

The convenience of using a router placed in a table lies in the optimization and safety of working with wood, as well as the speed of manufacturing parts. The principle of operation of this installation is quite simple, since it is not the milling cutter that moves along the surface being processed, but the part that moves relative to it. A router fixed to the table gives more ample opportunities processing of parts. As a result, product blanks are obtained as in professional furniture workshops with the appropriate equipment. Before making a milling table, you need to decide appearance and size. It is necessary to take into account the possibility of upgrading the table. It is important that the table is reliable and stable in use. The presence of drawers will create additional comfort in work

Compact homemade design will replace an industrial machine

There are three main types of router tables:

  1. Stationary - a specialized design, usually bulky and non-movable.
  2. Portable - has compact dimensions and relatively light weight. This table is easy to move.
  3. Aggregate - the design provides for expansion of the surface of the saw table.

Design diagram

To make your own countertops, you usually use MDF boards covered with various plastic coatings, thick plywood or boards. These materials are easy to process, lightweight and durable.

Wooden structure is easy to process and use

Some craftsmen believe that a metal countertop is the most durable and durable. They are right, but such a table with an electrical appliance will become an excellent conductor, which is unsafe. The metal is also susceptible to corrosion, so it needs to be painted.

The covers of the milling tables must be smooth. They are often made of plastic or metal. These tables have a perfectly flat surface that is impervious to moisture. Phenolic plastics are easy to process. This is very convenient when making grooves for aluminum profile or when drilling holes for fastening the longitudinal stop. Like MDF, plywood and boards, these materials have reasonable prices.

Branded countertops made of steel or aluminum already have holes for a specific model of router. If the manufactured countertop models are made of MDF boards or plastic, then the companies prepare only holes for the plates. Although this does not always happen.

There are holes in the base of the plate through which the router is attached with screws to its base. These plates can be made of metal, plastic, polycarbonate or aluminum. The router plate must be installed flush with the surface of the countertop. If any part of the plate protrudes above the surface, the workpieces will catch on it.

The table cover is equipped with adjusting screws or other devices for leveling the plate. It is better to choose a plate with replaceable rings. This is necessary to select the holes of the rings according to the diameter of the cutter. This makes it easier to remove chips and other debris from the work surface. milling table.

Creates convenience when selecting cutter diameter

When performing milling operations, a longitudinal stop is often necessary, which guides the workpiece under the right angle. In order for the work to be done accurately, it must be level along its entire length, positioned strictly perpendicular to the table surface and be easy to adjust for various processes. The front parts of the stop can be made either solid or in the form of several overlays. To prevent chips and debris from accumulating, the side stop is equipped with a pipe. The vacuum cleaner hose is connected to it.

The front parts of the stop are in the form of several fastened overlays

The milling table can be upgraded with a frame into which the grinder will be attached. Read more about self-production You can read this design.

Required tools and materials

  1. Carpenter's glue.
  2. Bolts with nuts.
  3. Screws.
  4. MDF board and birch plywood sheet
  5. Jigsaw.
  6. Spanners.
  7. Sandpaper.
  8. Ruler.
  9. Pencil

Drawings and calculations

To make a table for a router, you can use a separate surface, which is fixed in wooden supports or between two cabinets. Most in a simple way To create a table top, support part and parts for a milling table, you will use MDF board or birch plywood with a thickness of 16 to 25 mm. If the plate is covered with plastic, then there will be less resistance during operation. The board, laminated on both sides, will not warp during use. In our case, in the manufacture of the milling table we used:

  1. 1 MDF panel, size 19x1000x1800 mm.
  2. 1 plywood sheet, size 19x1000x1650 mm.
  3. 1 plate, size 4x30x30 mm.
  4. Aluminum guides - 2.3 m.
  5. Wheel support with brake - 4 pcs.

Photo gallery: Milling table diagrams

Step-by-step instruction

The structure of the upper part of the table will consist of wooden parts that are cut from a solid 19 mm MDF board. As a replacement for this material, you can use birch plywood.

1 - working surface; 2 - support base; 3 - its support wall; 4 - gusset (4 pcs., dimensions for 19 mm plywood); 5 - drawer (2 pcs.); 6 - side bar; 7 - connecting strip (4 pcs.)

Before sawing into parts, it is necessary to check the thickness of the MDF board, as often it may not coincide with the specified parameters or be defective.

  • It is necessary to remove the plastic cover from the base of the router. In the future, it will serve as a template for marking cutters on the surface of the countertop.

The plastic pad will serve as a template for marking

  • On the largest sawn part No. 1, measuring 90x70 cm, make markings for the cutter. To do this, you need to draw a line in the middle at a distance of 235 mm from the edge and put a mark. Then place the pad so that the router's adjustment mechanisms are closer to the edge of the table. Having positioned the trim evenly, mark the places for drilling holes that will be secured with screws.

The mounting holes must line up with the trim

  • Measure the diameter of the pad and the distance from the outer edge to the cut of the sole, as shown in the image.

Determining its diameter

  • From the middle of the cut part of the sole, draw a line perpendicularly to its center, where: S = D/2-(D-H).

Measurements are taken from the cut of the sole of the lining

  • Using the holes in the sole of the lining, mark future holes for the mounting screws.

Using an overlay as a template

  • In parts No. 2 and 3, drill holes for fasteners and cutters. At the base and front of the stop, make markings for semicircular cutouts, as shown in the image. Using a jigsaw, cut semicircular cutouts. Sand the surfaces.

There are no semicircular cutouts in the diagram.

  • Attach four planks (parts No. 7) to the underside of the tabletop using screws.

Use wood glue or epoxy as glue.

  • Glue the remaining pieces together and secure them with screws. Install a router at the bottom of the tabletop.

1 - side bar for fixing with clamps on trestles; 2 - drawer; 3 - countersunk guide holes; 4 - front wall of the stop; 5 - self-tapping screw with countersunk head 4.5x42; 6 - scarf; 7 - support base

  • Now you need to make the table support structure. In our case, its height will be 820 mm. For this, a sheet of birch plywood 19x1000x1650 mm was used.

1 - outer side pillar; 2 - internal stand; 3 - rear pillar; 4 - base

  • Cut the plywood into pieces according to size.
  • Assemble the table structure, securing its parts with self-tapping screws, screws, and glue. The result is a frame with free space in the cabinets, which are convenient for storing tools and consumables.

1 - side stand; 2 - support on wheels; 3 - bottom of the structure; 4 - inner panel; 5 - rear pillar

  • Then you need to make mounting plate, which will contribute to a greater reach of the cutter due to the tool attached to it. To make the plate, you need duralumin, getinax or polycarbonate with a thickness of 4 to 6 mm. Cut a square from the specified material, the sides of which are 300 mm. Glue the router sole onto it (using double-sided tape). In this case, the overlay will serve as a template. Drill the plate through the holes in the cover. After this, remove the cover and use a large drill to make indentations for the caps in the plate.

Allows the cutter to process parts as much as possible

  • As shown in the image, you need to place the plate and trace its outline. Draw and cut a cutout on the tabletop, the edges of which are sanded.

A pre-drilled hole will make the process easier

  • At the place where the cutter is attached, drill holes and widen them with reverse side tabletops with an 11 mm drill. Place the mounting plate on the prepared hole in the tabletop, aligning them for fastening with bolts. Attach the part to the router base. Insert the tool into the tabletop and secure it with screws.

The holes of the table top and the plate must match

  • For ease of operation of the machine, it is necessary to modify the side stop and equip it with a rotary one. This will help in the future to process the ends of narrow parts. To do this, you need to embed guides from a T-shaped profile into the surface of the slab.

Rotary and side stop will make the process convenient

  • Install a guide profile in the front stop bar for attaching clamps, pads and protective devices.
  • To connect the vacuum cleaner to the machine, it is necessary to make a pipe for dust removal. To do this, you need to cut a part measuring 140x178 mm from plywood. In the center of the detail we make round hole for attaching the adapter fitting for a vacuum cleaner.

The part is made of plywood

  • For support, add a safety shield made of plywood and plexiglass.

Wing nuts are used for convenience

  • To mill small fragments, make clamps and clamps. To do this, we cut out parts from plywood in accordance with the dimensions in the image. When making a comb clamp, it is better to use maple wood. To cut out a part, you need to choose an area with a straight direction of the wood fibers. It is better to perform ridge slots circular saw on the machine.

Allows you to fix parts when processing small fragments

  • Secure the guide with clamps. Sand all surfaces of the table, especially in areas where work will be carried out. milling work. Clear everything wooden elements from dust and cover with oil.

Safety precautions

When working on milling machine Accidents and injuries are possible from contact with the rotating mechanisms of the cutter and particles of workpieces flying away from it. Before starting the router, you need to remove all the tools from the surface of the tabletop, clean its surface from debris and small particles. You can also equip the milling table with a protective screen that will prevent particles from flying away.

While working at the table, cleaning and lubricating parts, removing the protective screen and measuring workpieces is prohibited. To avoid flying particles from getting into your eyes, you must use safety glasses. This is especially true when high-speed milling or processing bronze, cast iron or silumin elements.

It is necessary to cut the cutter into the part gradually. The mechanical feed must be turned on until the part comes into contact with the cutter drill. During rotation of the milling mechanism, it is unacceptable close location hands in the tool rotation zone. Before installing drills, you must ensure their reliability and strength, as well as their integrity and correct sharpening. Drills should not contain metal chips or cracks. If such defects are detected, they must be replaced.

Video: Making a milling table with your own hands

Thanks regarding inexpensive materials and your skill can build a compact design of a milling table. This will allow you to produce parts with high-precision cutouts and high-quality processing at home.

Necessary materials:

1. Lumber;
2. A sheet of plywood 1.5 cm thick;
3. Beam;
4. Nails, screws and plugs for them;
5. Wood glue;
6. Epoxy resin(5-7 liters);
7. Masking tape;
8. Metallic profile(about 9 m);
9. Spray paint (for metal);
10. Oilcloth and other materials.

Manufacturing instructions

Preparing the boards
You need to sort the cuttings of the boards, choose different colors and textures so that they look harmonious on the tabletop. If the boards are taken from old pallets, you need to carefully remove all nails, fasteners and other unnecessary elements.

The boards selected for the tabletop should be cut into equal boards, small in width (3-5 cm). The length is not important - the excess will still be cut off. The boards are laid out in the order in which they will lie. The base for the countertop is plywood. Having cut the sheet to the expected size of the table, you need to glue the boards one by one. Along the perimeter, unnecessary segments are eliminated to create an even rectangle.

The pattern will be more interesting if you alternate dark and light boards. You need to wait until the glue sets. If desired, you can nail the boards with finishing nails.<

Frame
After all the boards have taken their place, you need to make a frame from pieces of timber. It should protrude slightly above the level of the tabletop, since when pouring resin it will act as a side. The timber - the base of the frame - is cut at an angle of 45 degrees. All parts are connected.

First, the timber is installed with glue, and then attached with self-tapping screws. For a more durable connection to the base, holes for self-tapping screws are drilled. Plugs are placed on the self-tapping screws in the corners, and all connections are puttied to make them invisible. The surface of the tabletop takes on a smooth shape.

Table support
Legs for the tabletop can be purchased separately, or you can make them yourself - welded from a metal profile. Having decided on the dimensions of the support, the profile is cut into equal sections.

First, the metal parts are welded in a U shape. Two of these parts are needed. Strips are welded to the tops.

Having strengthened the spans with metal pipes, both elements are connected into one support. After welding, the seams must be cleaned and the entire structure painted with spray paint.

Fastening the table top
Holes for self-tapping screws are drilled in the metal support - at an equal distance from each other along the entire perimeter.

To ensure that the heads of the screws are “recessed,” the resulting holes are countersunk.

To attach the tabletop to the support, the first one is placed on the floor with the back side facing up. Places for fastenings are marked on the plywood. The support, also placed upside down, must be screwed to the tabletop with self-tapping screws.

Pouring resin
The table is placed in the correct position, placed on a support, on a flat surface. Epoxy resin will be poured into the recess of the tabletop formed around the perimeter of the frame.

To ensure that the floor remains clean during the work, you should spread a film over it, and seal all cracks in the table with masking tape. It is advisable to carry out work in a warm and well-ventilated area.

Epoxy resin is prepared according to the instructions, observing safety precautions. The resin is poured onto the surface slowly, in an even layer of no more than 6 mm.

The mixture must be stirred, avoiding the formation of bubbles. If they do form, “drive” them away using a gas burner.

After the base coat has hardened, the masking tape is removed. The monolithic countertop is subjected to further processing. It is necessary to apply several more layers, each of which dries for at least six hours.

All smudges and irregularities are polished. The table looks very original and is also durable.

Original post in English

A dining table with forged legs can be a great addition to the dining room.

A metal table is not only beautiful and aesthetically pleasing, but also very durable, functional, and practical. In addition, metal products are easy to care for and retain their attractive appearance for a long time.

You can easily make a metal table yourself. Detailed manufacturing instructions will be described in this article.

Metal table options

The tabletop of such a table can be different - plastic, glass, wood or metal. A welding machine is used to connect the parts together. The table frame can be made of straight metal welded together (for example, pipes), bent, welded metal, or forged metal.

So, here are some table and metal options:

    • A workbench is a metal table for processing and working with wood and other building materials (read how to make a workbench with your own hands).
    • Forged table.
    • Metal side table.

  • Metal coffee table.

Materials and tools

Materials:

  • metal profiles or rolled metal;
  • primer for metal;
  • metal paint;
  • brushes or rollers;
  • chalk and a flat surface for a stencil;
  • table top;
  • bars and glue for attaching the table top.

Tools:

  • welding machine;
  • grinder with a metal brush (you can use a simple metal brush without a grinder);
  • metal saw;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • self-tapping screws and bolts.

Making a forged table

Furniture with forged legs is always beautiful and impressive. It is used as a decorative decoration for a room or garden. Bright colors add playfulness to furniture, while discreet black, white or metal colors add business style, high cost and aesthetics.

Forging is the act of influencing hot metal using a hammer and an anvil, or bending cold metal using a hammer and devices made of round pins welded to a flat surface.

Hot forging gives an incredible flight of fancy and can satisfy even the most daring ideas, because it is more accurate. Cold forging looks less aesthetically pleasing.

In order to do forging, you need to have a special tool for bending metal rods. If you have such a tool in your arsenal as a home craftsman, then there will be no problems with forging. If you are far from this, but want to make a metal table with forged legs or elements, then it would be better to order metal forging from professionals.

Manufacturing stages

    1. The metal is cleaned of rust and dirt using a steel brush. Then a stencil is made. You can create bent legs yourself, if you don’t use too intricate stencils. Any leaf tree can be used for this. We make the drawing on a scale of 1:1.
    2. We weld two studs (fasteners in the form of a threaded rod) at a distance of about 2-3 cm from each other. A metal profile or rolled metal is inserted between these studs. Using force and a hammer, the metal is bent in the right places. In this case, the result of bending must be checked against the stencil. If this is not done, then it will be impossible to achieve symmetry of the legs.

Take to sitting: in order to find out the size of the metal that will be needed to make monograms, you can use regular rope that does not stretch. Each turn is measured with a rope and its size is transferred to the metal

  1. We assemble all the metal parts according to the drawn stencil and cut off the excess. We weld the products first on one side and then on the other. Welding must be done carefully so that welding build-up does not form. We clean the entire structure with a metal brush.
  2. We also carefully weld the finished forging elements to the bent metal. We clean everything with a brush again.
  3. Use a white metal primer to cover all parts of the table legs. A light color will help you not miss a single millimeter when painting metal.
  4. Painting is carried out with a roller or a narrow brush. Forged legs are most often painted in white, black, bronze, gold or silver.
  5. The wooden tabletop is attached to the forged legs using screws. Holes are made in the table frame that are slightly larger in diameter than the screws, then the table surface is secured.

Advice from the editor: To hide the place where the table top and table legs are attached, you can use metal corners. To do this, small holes are made in the metal for bolts. The corners are connected to the tabletop using self-tapping screws.

Attaching the legs to the tabletop depends entirely on what kind of legs are being made for the table - their size, shape, number of forged elements and their location. If you take a glass tabletop, it is attached using UV glue or special rubber suction cups. The metal tabletop is carefully welded on the reverse side, cleaned, primed and painted.

A table with a stone top is suitable for installation outdoors, for example in, and indoors. It is better to use granite - it is more durable and wear-resistant than other stones (for example, marble, often used for tables).

Table made of metal tubes

You will need:

  • metal tubes: 3 pcs (diameter 18 mm, length – 73 cm); 3 pcs (diameter 18 mm, length – 38.5 cm) and metal corners – 3 pcs (section 30 x 30 mm, length – 40 cm).
  • tabletop. You can use a round surface made of laminated chipboard, or MDF, with a thickness of 19 mm and a diameter of 95 or 96 cm.
  • Additionally, you will need balls for the legs, 60 mm in diameter, screws (3.5 x 30 mm, 6 x 50 mm) and waterproof glue.

Manufacturing stages

  1. A regular triangle with angles of 60 degrees is welded from metal corners. And we make the same triangle from tubes, 38.5 cm long.
  2. Using a metal drill, we make holes in the frame, with the help of which the frame will be attached to the tabletop.
  3. We bend metal tubes, 73 cm long, with a hammer and a vice to a length of 65 cm. The legs do not need to be bent, then their ends need to be cut at an angle.
  4. A metal triangular footrest is welded to the legs, approximately in the middle of the leg.
  5. The top of the legs is welded to the triangular frame.
  6. We weld metal balls to the ends of the legs.
  7. We cut the tabletop from laminated chipboard or MDF. We process the edges using sandpaper or a sanding machine.
  8. The tabletop is attached to the legs using screws that are inserted into the holes that we previously drilled in the metal frame.

Note: The tabletop can be made of wood, glass, stone, metal. However, the mounting methods will be different. The easiest way to attach a tabletop is with glue, but it is also not as reliable as screws, self-tapping screws and bolts.

Table Decor Ideas

You can decorate the top of a finished metal table in the following ways:

    • mosaic from various materials;

  • glazing of a wooden tabletop.


The manufacturing process of hot forging products can be seen as follows video:

17238 0 0

Do-it-yourself products from profile pipes: 5 illustrative examples in which all issues related to strength are resolved

If I need to build any structure with increased strength characteristics, then I use profile pipe as the main material. Why? The answer to this question, as well as visual examples of using such an interesting material at home, can be found further in the article.

Features of profiled pipe

Let me start, perhaps, with how a pipe with a rectangular cross-section is generally obtained:

A few words about the production process

  1. At the first stage a conventional cylindrical blank is created electric welding or seamless method;

  1. The cylinder is then placed in a special machine where undergoing molding, acquiring a rectangular cross-section;

  1. The last step is heat treatment already profiled sample, during which its tension is relieved and its strength properties increase.

Beware of buying products from small private companies for serious projects, as they very often lack the third stage of processing, as a result of which the pipes do not have the strength that you would expect.

And what's the trick?

So why do I prefer to build metal structures from a profile pipe rather than from a cylindrical one? In this case, we are not talking about pipelines, but specifically about structures that perform functions other than transporting liquids. It's all about stiffening rib, which prevents the product from bending, being pressed and undergoing other deformations that can be caused by mechanical influences of any kind.

Thus, if, for example, we apply pressure to a regular pipe, we will get the following result:

That is, the cross-section of the sample will simply change its shape to oval, or some other shape. This will depend on the direction of the forces acting on it. Rounded walls will not be able to provide adequate resistance. In general, this is exactly the result, in fact, that we observe at the second stage of creating profile products.

The presence of a flat stiffener allows the pipe withstand mechanical pressure, completely preserving its outlines:

And now I want to put together the advantages of products of this type that come from all the described ones:

Strengths

  1. Amazing high strength indicators, the reason for which I have already described. Finished structures will be able to withstand enormous loads, while avoiding even the slightest deformation;
  2. Ease of storage and transportation. Parallelepipeds fold much more compactly and lie more securely than cylinders;

  1. Acceptable price. Despite the fact that the production process of profile pipes has more stages than the production of products with a round cross-section, in the end angular shapes allow significant savings on material;
  2. Available instructions for performing assembly work. For the purpose of fixing various structural elements welding, bolts or couplings can be used. Otherwise, the process is similar to playing with a children's construction set;

  1. High reliability of connections. Here we are not talking about the joining method, but about the fact that it will be carried out by two flat surfaces, which is much more reliable than the contact of two cylinders;

  1. Durability. If corrosion does not affect the steel, it will serve you for tens or even hundreds of years. And, based on the high strength qualities, we can safely say that the created structure will not fall apart over even such an impressive period.

If you are planning to install a structure that is intended to be located outdoors, then I recommend choosing profiled pipes made of galvanized or stainless steel for this purpose. Although they are more expensive, they will effectively protect the structure from precipitation and other possible contacts with water that are harmful to the metal.

Disputed side

It is controversial, and not just negative. We are talking about the difficulty of bending products with a rectangular cross-section, which is hampered by that very stiffening rib. That is, the most important advantage of profiled pipes in this situation presents some complications, but:

  • Firstly, if your plan does not include rounded elements, then you can completely forget about this annoying nuance;
  • Secondly, bending can still be done even at home, although it is not easy to do. I will further focus on this issue later.

Features of bending

If you are planning to create a structure with rounded shapes, then this stage of assembly work will definitely be on your way to achieving your goal. Therefore, I will analyze it separately.

There are several methods for bending a profile pipe; choose the one that is most convenient for you:

  1. The easiest way in terms of labor costs is to go to the factory, which has the appropriate equipment, and order there the operation you need. Industrial machines can easily and quickly bend any metal products. But there are two important obstacles worth noting:
    • Firstly, a plant with suitable equipment simply may not be nearby;
    • Secondly, such an order will cost money, which will hit the family budget somewhat;

  1. Buy home compact pipe bender. The portable machine can be easily installed on the site or in the workshop and, although it does not have the same power as its industrial counterparts, it can handle the products that you will use at home. But, of course, you should understand that such a unit is not cheap;

I recommend purchasing the described machine if you plan to produce any structures in large quantities for the purpose of their subsequent sale. Then it will quickly pay for itself and, with successful marketing, even begin to make a profit.

  1. Use a grinder and a welding machine. This, again, will require some tools, but on the other hand, if you are going to assemble metal structures, then you should have an angle grinder and a welder. True, I personally don’t really like this method because of the appearance of seams at the bends. You will now understand what we are talking about from the description of its implementation:
    • In the place of the future bend, three slits are made using a grinder: one in the middle and two with some indentation to the sides;
    • Next, the pipe is bent in the prepared place;
    • At the last stage, the seams are welded. It is this moment that I don’t really like, since, for example, on an elegant arch they are completely out of place;

  1. Apply knowledge of physics and sand. This is my favorite method, which will make you tinker a little, but does not require any special equipment. It consists of the following:
    • One edge of the product is clogged with a wooden plug;
    • Then the pipe is filled with sand and its second edge is closed;
    • After such manipulations, the sample can be bent in the same way as ordinary cylindrical products; thanks to the sand, the pressure is distributed evenly over its entire surface, eliminating the resistance of the stiffening ribs.

Illustrative examples of heavy-duty structures

So, now, finally, we can move on to the actual examples of structures that I already had the opportunity to build at different times:

Example #1: Scaffolding

It’s quite easy to build scaffolding with your own hands from a profile pipe, and here you can easily get by with ordinary steel, since after performing high-altitude work, the structure will be disassembled again and hidden in a utility block. For the same reason, you should also not use a welding machine, as this will cause problems with dismantling; bolts will suffice.

I used samples with sections of the following sizes:

Work progress:

  1. Prepared a level area by clearing it of foreign objects;
  2. Sketched a drawing. You can also find a ready-made one on the Internet;

  1. I applied all the necessary markings on steel parallelepipeds;
  2. Cut the blanks to the required sizes and drilled them in places;

  1. Connected all the fragments according to the drawing and fixed them with bolts;
  2. Above installed a wooden shield.

When I am on such a structure, I feel absolutely confident, which is incredibly important when performing high-altitude work.

Example No. 2: stepladder

Making a stepladder from a profile pipe with your own hands is also quite simple, but its importance in the household is difficult to overestimate. In this case I used:

I acted like this:

  1. Started again with a drawing. You should always have a drawing in front of you with the dimensions of what you plan to do;
  2. Marked the workpieces;
  3. Three meter sample cut into steps and spacers;
  4. Two two-meter pipes connected in steps using a welding machine. Reliability is more important here than the ability to dismantle;
  5. I also connected two one-and-a-half-meter ones in two places with pipe sections for greater stability of the structure;
  6. Half a meter from the top edge on larger products I drilled holes for long bolts, and on smaller ones I did the same only near the very edges;
  7. Connected the staircase fragments with long bolts without completely tightening them. This created a hinged connection so that the structure could be folded;
  8. I welded a plate to the top step and a hook to it so that it could be hooked to the crossbar on the opposite side of the structure.

If you plan to use the stepladder indoors, I recommend inserting plastic plugs into the ends of the pipes from below. This will help protect your floors from scratches.

Example No. 3: gate

Gates from a profile pipe are welded with your own hands, since such a structure is erected once for many years, and in this case there is no point in drilling it and connecting it with bolts. A sample work plan looks like this:

  1. Create a drawing, without which, as I noted above, you can’t go anywhere;

  1. Preparation all necessary tools and components;
  2. Marking and working with a grinder to shorten or split pipes that are too long;
  3. Installation and concreting of support pillars;
  4. Connecting all the elements into a single frame according to the diagram using a welder;
  5. Installation of hinges;
  6. Hanging frame on piles;
  7. Painting in order to protect the metal from corrosion and give it a more cheerful color;
  8. Covering with finishing material.

Example No. 4: table

Many people probably first encountered desks and chairs made from profile pipes back in school. Yes, such pieces of furniture cannot be called very beautiful, but they can easily withstand all the “horrors” to which schoolchildren have subjected them for many years. So, if you need a table that can withstand significant loads, then the choice is obvious.

By the way, if desired, it can even be given some aesthetics by complicating the frame design and applying decorative finishing.

The easiest way to get a durable table is as follows:

  1. Four legs and crossbars are cut out, which will connect them in the future;
  2. All fragments are welded or bolted together;
  3. A table top is installed on top.

Almost any furniture can be made in this way. That is, it is enough to take any drawing where the use of, for example, wood or plastic is envisaged, and replace the frame material in it with profile pipes.

Example No. 5: small architectural structures

When talking about small architectural structures, I also mean gazebos that you can use to equip your own suburban area. By the way, bent elements may most often be needed here. Pipes with a rectangular cross-section are easily assembled into the desired structure, resulting in a reliable “house” for your household needs that can easily withstand any atmospheric conditions and other possible loads.

I will not go into detail here, since the general technology for assembling “skeletons” for small buildings is very similar to how scaffolding, gates, stepladders and furniture are assembled, which I have already described above. Perhaps a structural element such as a foundation can be added, but it has nothing to do with the topic of the article, and in most cases it is not necessary for metal structures.

Conclusion

Profile pipes are very easy to use, and it is easy to assemble a wide variety of designs from them. But all of them will have something in common, namely incredibly high strength and resistance to any aggressive mechanical influences. The main thing is to get a drawing, a grinder and a drill with bolts or a welding machine, and the rest, as they say, is a matter of technique.

The video in this article will allow you to familiarize yourself with some additional information that is directly related to the topic presented. If you have any questions regarding the material you have read, ask them in the comments.

July 30, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

When the main finishing work in the kitchen is completed, it’s time to think about choosing furniture, a kitchen worktop, plumbing fixtures and finishing the apron. In this article, I will talk in detail about my experience in arranging a kitchen worktop (the length of my countertop is 2.8 m) on a metal frame and facing the apron with porcelain tiles.

The work surface in the kitchen should be practical and reliable, so I did not consider standard laminated chipboard as too fragile and wear-resistant an option. The choice settled on a metal frame, lined. It’s better to start work by installing the countertop, so that the level at which the apron will need to be made is immediately clear, after which the countertop can be decorated with porcelain stoneware.


Kitchen room with rough finish

Materials:

  • Metal square pipe 30×50 mm
  • Metal square pipe 30×30 mm
  • Electrodes
  • Anchor bolts with a diameter of 12mm and a length of 100mm. (4 anchor bolts were used for a length of 2.8 m).
  • Solvent
  • Dye
  • Plywood 8 mm thick
  • Metal screws
  • Silicone
  • Liquid Nails
  • Decorative corner for tiles: external and internal
  • Aluminum elka for tiles.

How to make a kitchen worktop on a metal frame, lined with porcelain tiles

First, we attach the square pipe to the wall with anchor bolts. Please note that in the future plywood and porcelain tiles will be attached to this pipe. That is, the height from the floor to the top of the desktop will subsequently be 89 cm.

Calculation of the height of the working surface of the kitchen table depending on the user’s height:

  • height less than 168cm - table height 85cm
  • height 168-178cm - 89cm
  • height 178-186cm - 91cm
  • height over 186cm - 94cm

Next, we weld the main metal frame of the desktop 60 cm wide with additional guides, leaving free sections where the sink and hob are planned to be installed, according to their dimensions specified in the technical specifications. passport.

For strength and to prevent sagging, the front part of the frame is made from a 30x50mm square pipe.

We check the dimensions of the openings for the hob and sink and paint the frame of the future countertop.

We fasten the plywood with metal screws, having previously coated the frame with silicone.

In a similar way, we cover the entire frame with plywood.

We fasten an aluminum L-shaped guide (“L-shaped”) with self-tapping screws to support the weight of the tile and the decorative end part of the desktop.

We cut porcelain tiles on a machine, for example, a woodworking machine, after securing the disk, into strips. You can also use a grinder, but your hand may shake, which may result in the tile bursting.

Glue porcelain stoneware strips with liquid nails.

Then we attach an aluminum outer tile corner over the porcelain tile strip.

Using a grinder, we cut the tiles under the sink in the shape of the letter “P”.





We attach all prepared porcelain tiles to the plywood with universal glue.

We coat the seams between the tiles with silicone.

We glue the inner aluminum corner to the wall of the desktop to protect it from moisture.

We glue the tiles for. Let us remind you that we previously talked about how to lay it out in the kitchen with your own hands.

Coat the seams with grout of the desired shade.

The result is a kitchen work surface and a corner ready for the installation of cabinets and shelves.