Cut a log on a machine. How to saw correctly on a band sawmill

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Whatever construction you plan, you will definitely need wood materials. And all the work will cost much less if you prepare the lumber yourself. Therefore, in this article we will look at how to cut a log into boards yourself.

Sawing methods

To cut a log into boards, you can use one of three existing methods:

Along;
Across;
Diagonally - since this method is used extremely rarely (in specialized developments and projects), we will further focus on the first two methods.

Cross cut

It is carried out to obtain parts in the form of cylinders and disks.

Longitudinal cut

This type of dissolving of logs into boards, slats, beams is used. At the sawmills, furniture factories, procurement enterprises use many different devices. We will look at how to cut logs into boards at home.

For cutting at home, you can use a saw, an angle grinder with special attachments, or a circular saw.

Preparing for cutting

Before, , you need to remove the peel from it. This can be done with a sharpened shovel, scraper, or electric plane.

When using a shovel, the movements are done on your own.

It is believed that the best results are obtained when the bark is removed with a scraper - it does not affect the tree.

How to cut a log into boards

Options how to properly cut a log into boards, there are different ones. It all depends on your needs. The sawing technology itself is as follows:

The bark is removed (but this can be done at home later);
The log is fixed on the frame or guides;
One is sawed off to get a smooth surface;
Next, place a flat surface on the frame (table), fix and saw off the second slab;
They spread the entire log onto boards.

Cross cutting of logs

This is not difficult even for working at home. Place the log on the sawhorses or secure it to the guides. And you can saw off pieces of the desired size.

Longitudinal sawing of logs

The difficulty of such a cut is that the entire length of the log must be maintained at the same thickness. It is best to use for these purposes special equipment, which is attached to a log.

Sawing logs into boards at home

Many people make their own sawmill for sawing logs. Let's consider two main options for their manufacture.

Weld a frame from metal plates and angles and attach the engine to its lower part. Place a shaft with pulleys at the top. Then attach one or more circular saw blades to the shaft. Attach a guide made of a metal square or timber to the table. While pressing against the guides, feed the log and move it forward. If you use one saw, then you need to attach a ruler or apply markings to the surface of the table.
From profile pipe and channels, weld the frame. or electrically attach it to a vertical feed carriage. To ensure that the dissolution of logs into boards is as accurate as possible, vertical rack attach a ruler. Use a rod or sanded pipe to guide the carriage. They are necessary for the carriage to move vertically. Install a screw in the bearing that will move the carriage as it moves. Also, don't forget to prepare the log clamps.

When using the second option for work, it is the saw that is driven, on a specially attached frame. The log itself remains in place. If you are using reciprocating saw, and not a chain one, then the process is a little delayed, since it only works in one direction.

How to saw a log into boards with a circular saw?

To cut a log lengthwise into boards, you can also use a circular saw. But you need to take into account the fact that the log can spin from side to side or jump.

To avoid the inconvenience associated with this, we advise you to attach a fin that will separate the future board from the log and prevent the log from swinging while sawing.

Tatyana Kuzmenko, member of the editorial board, correspondent of the online publication "AtmWood. Wood-Industrial Bulletin"

How useful was the information for you?

Wood, like natural stone, is one of the most ancient building materials. Despite the huge selection of various artificially created materials existing on the construction market today, timber is still very popular. In order to obtain high-quality lumber, the log must be cut into boards. In this article we will talk about how to cut a log into boards.

Types of log cutting

Sawing logs into boards is carried out in two main ways:

radial
tangential.

In addition, additional methods are possible:

mixed
semi-radial (rustic)
central.

Radial sawing is a type of sawing during which the axis of the cut runs through the core of the log and, as a result, the annual rings in the section of the board form an angle of 76 - 900. The lumber obtained by such a cut has a uniform color and texture. Timber almost does not undergo deformation during drying and does not swell when moistened, because the dimensions of the wood change mainly along the line of the rings (across the grain). In radial sawn timber, the annual rings are arranged according to thickness. Such materials are distinguished by the highest performance indicators in comparison with other types of lumber.

Tangential cutting is carried out along tangents to the lines of annual rings at a short distance from its core. The surfaces of the resulting boards are distinguished by a pronounced texture and a bright wave-like pattern of annual rings. Such lumber is characterized by higher coefficients of shrinkage and swelling from moisture compared to radial cut boards. As a result, they are greatly deformed when exposed to moisture. Such boards are in demand for use in dry conditions.

Rustic (semi-radial) and mixed types cuts have characteristics of two main types of cuts simultaneously: radial and tangential. Therefore, they exhibit average shrinkage and swelling coefficients. Rustic cut boards are distinguished by straight lines of annual rings, which are located at angles of 46 - 75 degrees. to the layers. Mixed sawn timber is distinguished by the fact that the lines change from straight at the edges (along the width) of the board to arched towards the middle.

The center cut is made right in the center of the trunk and contains its core. Taking into account the fact that the core of the trunk is wood with the lowest strength indicators, center-cut lumber is characterized by a structure that is heterogeneous in strength.

Wood balance when sawing

Log diameter	Volume yield,%
Log diameter	sleepers	boards	general	sawdust	piece otx.

Tools for sawing logs

Tools and cutting methods depend on the total volume of logs, such indicators as length and thickness. In addition, you need to take into account the quality of the future lumber. Cutting a log involves working with different tools and specialized equipment. In order to obtain a small amount of lumber at home, it is suitable manual method processing logs using a chainsaw or traditional hand saws with teeth for longitudinal cutting.

The sawmill is perhaps the most famous type of sawmill equipment. This is a woodworking machine that contains frame saws. Lumber is produced at the sawmill longitudinal cut, for example, an edged board or timber. Sawmills allow processing logs with a diameter of 15 to 80 cm and a length of up to 7 m.

Cutting logs into boards using circular saws (circular saws) is carried out using a circular saw. Such equipment can be single-saw (single-disc) and multi-saw (multi-disc). Devices containing one disk are suitable for working with small-sized and low-quality raw materials. Using multi-disc machines, you can cut round workpieces of large diameter.

Band sawmills are the most popular today. They come in two types: vertical and horizontal. The cutting tool in such equipment is tape cloth, which is put on the pulleys. Working on band saws guarantees the production of high-quality longitudinal and mixed lumber, such as boards and beams. This produces the least amount of waste.

Large industrial enterprises use wood sawing lines. They allow achieving very high surface quality and precise geometry of the final products. Such lines are characterized by the highest productivity.

In addition to all the equipment listed above, such types of highly specialized sawmill equipment as debarkers, edgers, band-dividers and other types of machines are also used.

Very often there are situations when you need to produce a very small volume of boards or beams for your own needs. Of course, buying machines in this case is absolutely not an option. Having certain knowledge and skills, it is much more profitable to cut logs with my own hands, using an electric or gasoline chain saw. Despite the fact that this work is quite labor-intensive, the result is quite justified.

Most experts believe that a chainsaw is better suited for this purpose. Such equipment has high power and can operate without interruption for a long time. In addition, the operation of a chainsaw does not require electricity, so you can work far from the power supply, for example, right on the plot.

In order to cut a log into boards using a chainsaw, you will also need special tools, such as a mechanism for securing the log, a frame attachment for the chainsaw, and a guide for making the cut. The attachment frame must be attached to the chainsaw bar so that it can be used to adjust the gap between it and the chain. This will make it possible to create boards of different thicknesses. It is worth purchasing a special chain for longitudinal sawing. It has a special tooth sharpening angle. The guide ruler can be made from a metal profile of the required length or a flat, rigid board.

Before starting work, you need to remove all the bark and remaining branches from the workpieces, and also carefully inspect the log for various flaws. This way, you can choose the most suitable cutting pattern and, therefore, reduce the amount of possible waste.

If you are longitudinally sawing trunks, you need to make sure that the resulting lumber is of the same density across the entire width. Since the density of wood from the northern part of the log is much higher than from the southern part, the cut is carried out in a plane directed from east to west (or in the reverse order).

The first step is to remove the slabs from two opposite edges of the log. As a result, a double-edged beam will be obtained, which is then cut into boards or other lumber of equal thickness, according to the intended sawing pattern. The final product is an unedged board, from which the edges must then be removed.

For many centuries, timber has been the most popular raw material for housing construction. Today, primitive processing methods have been replaced by modern equipment. For example, to cut timber and process it to the required size, craftsmen use a sawmill. The disadvantage of such a machine is the cost. For this reason, many people make mini sawmills based on chainsaws.

April 04

How to properly cut a log into boards?

The tree, along with natural stone, is one of the ancient building materials. You can cut a log into boards different ways: manually, using an electric or gasoline saw, on sawmills. Despite the enormous abundance of various artificially made materials currently present on the construction market, wood species are still in constant demand. Greetings, readers of Andrey Noak's blog. How to cut a log into boards at home with your own hands? – This is a question that torments many people with “golden hands” and interesting ideas! Wood is a universal and affordable material, and not a single construction project can be completed without its use.

Cutting logs into boards and types of lumber.

The main raw material for the production of lumber (beams of various sections, edged and unedged boards etc.) is a log - freed from branches and twigs, also from the narrower upper part of the tree trunk. Logs can be used as a completely independent building material as pillars, piles, masts, etc., but almost always they must be sawed to obtain beams and boards. How to cut a log into boards, beams and other lumber will be discussed further.

Sawing logs can be carried out using different methods:

manually, using a sawing tool;
on sawmills;
on woodworking machines and specialized lines.

The cost of lumber largely depends on its thickness and the amount of production waste.

In order to more correctly use the available raw materials and correctly saw the log, the woodworking industry uses special sawing schemes that make it possible to reduce the percentage of waste and thus reduce the cost of the final product. Therefore, before sawing a log without the help of others, it would be useful to familiarize yourself with similar schemes.

Tools and equipment for sawing logs

Scheme of cutting on a sawmill.

Depends on full quantity logs, their length, thickness and the expected properties of the future lumber, used for sawing different instrument and special equipment. How to cut a log into boards with a chainsaw - a mini-sawmill at your home. You can’t do anything with a chainsaw – with the help of all kinds of attachments this tool becomes very useful. To obtain a small amount of lumber at home, the manual method of processing trunks using chainsaws and ordinary hand-held hacksaws with teeth for longitudinal sawing is fully applicable.

The sawmill is a fairly common type of sawmill equipment. How to cut a log into sawing logs into boards with a chainsaw. It is a woodworking machine with frame saws, designed for longitudinal cutting of logs to produce edged boards and timber. Sawmills can process logs with a diameter of 15 to 80 cm and a length of up to 7 m.

Sawmill from a chainsaw of two boards and self-tapping screws Homemade Chainsaw Milling

This video is about the simplest sawmill from chainsaws two boards and self-tapping screws. Help the channel: donation.

How to cut a log into planks with a chainsaw

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In addition to the above, other types of highly specialized sawmill equipment are used in the mass production of lumber: debarkers, edgers, band-dividers and other machines.

Types and methods of cutting logs

Before sawing a log into boards and beams, it is important to choose the most the best way sawing, which is determined by the size, geometry and surface quality of the future lumber, necessary technical requirements, as well as the type of wood. By orientation to the growth rings of the trunk, types of sawing can be distinguished. This:

radial, carried out precisely along the radius of the growth rings;
tangential, when sawing is done tangentially to the growth rings, parallel to one of the radii;
parallel-forming, when cutting occurs parallel to the direction of the fibers (this way, a minimum inclination of the fibers in the lumber is achieved).

Depending on the direction of sawing, there are several ways to saw logs:

waddling sawing;
sawing with beams;
segment method;
sector method;
circular sawing.

Scheme of sawing logs on a sawmill frame.

Sawing logs at home

Situations often arise when it is necessary to produce relatively inexpensive a large number of boards or beams for personal needs. In this case, the purchase of sawmills and other equipment is impractical. If you have certain knowledge and skills, it is much more profitable to cut logs manually, using an electric or gasoline chain saw. This is a rather labor-intensive process, but in some cases it is completely justified.

Most experts agree that using a chainsaw is preferable. How to cut a log into boards at home. Such saws, unlike electric ones, have more power and are able to work without interruption. long time. The task is how to cut a log into boards with a chainsaw, photo - chainsaws for logs. In addition, when using a chainsaw, no electricity is required, which allows you to carry out work remotely from power sources (for example, directly on plots).

When cutting logs into boards using a chainsaw, you will need special devices: a device for securing a log, a frame-attachment for a chainsaw and a guide along which the cut will be made. The attachment frame is attached to the chainsaw bar so that the distance between it and the chain can be adjusted. This will allow you to get boards of varying thicknesses. It is better to choose a special chain for longitudinal cutting, which differs in the angle of sharpening of the teeth. Suitable as a ruler metallic profile the required length or a flat, hard board.

Work order

Before starting sawing, it is necessary to free the prepared logs from bark and remaining branches and carefully inspect them for any possible defects. This will allow you to choose the optimal cutting pattern and thereby reduce the amount of possible waste.

When sawing logs longitudinally, care must be taken to ensure that the resulting boards have the same density across the entire width. How to cut a log into boards. Since the density of the trunk wood on the north side is much greater than on the south side, the cut is made in a plane directed from east to west (or vice versa).

The first operation when longitudinally sawing a log with a chainsaw is to remove the slab from two opposite sides of the trunk. The video shows how to evenly cut a log board with a chainsaw. How. As a result, a double-edged beam is formed, which is then sawn into boards of equal thickness or other lumber, in accordance with the selected sawing pattern. The output is an unedged board, from which the edges are subsequently removed.

If there is a false core or other defects in the log, it can be rotated 90° or 180°, as with the circular sawing method.

Sawing Logs into Boards with a Chainsaw... Sawing logs into boards using a chainsaw Sawing logs into boards with a chainsaw is a more successful and faster method. Sawing logs into smooth boards with a log saw equipped with a chainsaw attachment. Sawing logs into boards with a chainsaw to cut the log along its entire length. With the help of special nozzles and...

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Many craftsmen have developed their own methods of wood processing, many years of experience working with machines and this makes it possible to significantly reduce the process. To obtain quality material, sawing on a band sawmill must take into account all factors, observing the operating rules of the device.

Calculation features

The log is installed in guide rollers and secured in clamps. The amount of material obtained is calculated based on the diameter of the log. Correct calculation of the type and quantity of material also affects its quality.

An experienced sawyer, looking at a log, is already able to determine all the parameters of the future material, immediately find the butt part and the top of the log. The diameter of the butt part is larger than the apex. The thickness of the slab depends on the accuracy of the calculation.

The diameter of the log must be measured from the top. Further actions masters:

There are practically no perfectly straight trunks. Therefore, you need to carefully examine all the bends and bulges.
Turn the log so that the minimum amount of waste in the form of a slab is obtained.
When installing a log, you must make sure that it moves freely in the guides.
On the ruler of the sawmill, set the dimension according to the diameter of the log plus the maximum height of the convexity.
The size of the convexity is determined by the difference in the diameter of the butt part and the top.
The size of the highest part is measured with a tape measure, and the measurement of the material dimensions begins from the result obtained.
The master must take into account the cut size of 2–5 mm.

Turning a log

When the remaining height of the log reaches the desired size, it is turned over. If you need to get a beam with a thickness of 150 mm, the sawn width and the remaining height of the log should be slightly larger than this size, taking into account the slab.

When the log is turned over, the remaining height after the cut is made is measured, and the material is calculated until this size is completely used.

Calculation example:

The remaining height of the log after cutting is 270 mm. The goal is to obtain a beam 150 mm thick: 270–150 = 120 mm.
From 120 mm it is necessary to obtain a block of 50 mm: 120–60–3=57 mm. A value of 3 mm is given for the cut.
Tesina 25 mm: 67–25–3=40 mm.
Humper 25 mm: 40–25–3=12 mm.
Croaker 12 mm.

Further production of lumber is achieved by turning the log at an angle of 90 degrees and similar calculations. One of the common mistakes is that the cut allowance is not taken into account or is added more times. The master needs to be careful.

Cutting technology

The sawing technology is selected taking into account the type of wood, the size of the log, design features sawmills.

Quality of source material

The efficiency of cutting depends on the quality of the raw material. First you need to evaluate the wood and sort the logs. Sorting is carried out by appearance logs Main signs:

curvature;
false nucleus volume;
number of knots;
diameter.

The log is divided into 4 equal sides. A clean edge is considered to be one that does not have knots, cracks, rot, scars, chips, or damage from insects. This produces the highest quality lumber.

Logs intended for sawing must be stored according to the requirements. The sooner after cutting a tree a log goes into sawing, the easier it is to work with. When the raw material is dry, the saw may wave, and the thickness of the boards will change. The most valuable wood is on the outside of the log; the quality decreases towards the center.

Sawing methods

During the sawing process, you need to take into account the thickness of the board, compensation for the taper, and the turning of the log. Craftsmen can saw on a band sawmill in three ways.

Simple sawing

The log must be cut to the end to obtain unedged boards, but no turning is carried out. The method is simple and fast, but has disadvantages. The resulting boards must then be cut from the sides.

Lumber comes out Low quality with a lot of waste. The central boards crack easily; the method is suitable for working with low-grade wood.

Circular sawing

Having made a cut, the sawyer turns the log over to the other side, and so on in a circle until the remaining central part. For medium and premium grades wood raw material is the best way, but on separate sawmills it is difficult to turn the log over. Suitable for sawmills with hydraulics.

Sawing timber

The beginning of the cut is made in a circle, and the central part is left in the form of a certain size of timber. Sawing timber ensures maximum productivity of the sawmill; the method is used for sawing medium and low grade logs.

First cut

It is important to select the edge of the wood to be cut to begin processing. When sawing timber and circular processing, craftsmen use 2 methods.

The worst edge must be cut first; the taper of the log is not taken into account. Taking this feature into account means tilting and lifting the log so that the saw works parallel to the bark. From this part will come short boards and a large amount of slab.

Since taper is not taken into account, from the best edge of the log sawing will proceed parallel to the bark without tilting or lifting, this approach will allow you to get a maximum of long boards good quality.

Start by cutting the best edge of the log, but take into account the taper. That is, install the log so that the saw is directed parallel to the bark.

The result will be the same, but in the second method it is easier for the sawyer to choose the best edge, since it is visible. In the first method, the best part is hidden and there may be inaccuracies when installing the log. If the wood being cut is of high quality, both methods work equally well. With lower quality raw materials it is better to use the second method.

Flipping the log

If the turn is made 180 degrees, unedged boards are obtained that require additional processing on the sides, and then the half-beam is sawn into an edged board.

With a 90-degree turn, unedged and semi-edged boards are obtained with the need for trimming on one side. The 180° flip sawing method will produce more valuable wide boards. But if the edger has only one saw, turning it 90 degrees is convenient.

After cutting the opposite edges, the worst of the remaining ones is cut first, but this option does not take into account the taper. But a high-quality edge must be sawed parallel to the bark, which increases the yield of high-quality lumber.

Common errors and fixes

Craftsmen are aware of a number of situations that negatively affect the material processing process.

When entering the material, the saw jumps up, but after that it works normally, and at the end the power drops. The reason is often a large sharpening angle of the teeth; it must be reduced by 5 degrees.

Entering the wood, the saw rises, then the craftsmen receive a crooked board. The reason is that the sharpening angle exceeds the norm, and the setting is insufficient. It is necessary to increase the sharpening angle by 4–6 degrees, and slightly increase the spread.

After diving, the saw goes smoothly; the sawyer cites several reasons: dullness of the cutting blade, small sharpening angle. If the tooth shape corresponds to the standard, the sharpening angle must be increased.

The saw goes with constant dives. Small sharpening angle with insufficient setting.

There is a large amount of sawdust on the surface of the boards, and the tooth spacing is increased.

Sawdust is hot and compressed - an underestimated divorce.

The cut is obtained in the form of a wave. If the saw is quite sharp, then the setting is insufficient. Settings that are too small sometimes cause the saw blade to break.

The canvas cracks at its trailing edge. The rear stops of the rollers, where the log lies, are located far from the rear edge. The distance must be set to less than 0.3mm.

Rolling sawdust onto the saw blade. The tooth set is small, the set needs to be increased.

Sawdust rolls onto the inner surface of the tooth; there are no sawdust on the blade. Poor sharpening of teeth (high feed speed, excessive metal removal). Additional reasons: the sharpening angle is large, the saw was used after the blade became dull.

After sharpening, the blade cracks at the tooth cavity. The geometry of the tooth is broken or the sharpening stone is carelessly loaded.

Setting up a sawmill

Selection of Coolant Solution

It is incorrect to saw on a band saw using water as a lubricant. It is better not to use lubricant until sawdust has been “rolled” onto the saw. If this happens, the optimal treatment is: 1/2 lubricating oil for chainsaw tires, 1/2 diesel fuel. The mixture is applied on both sides of the saw blade, but the amount of cooling solution is small.

This lubricant will extend the service life of sawmill pulleys and reduce the number of boards with traces of blooming.

Strain relief

The blade heats up during sawing, which causes it to stretch in length. After cooling, the tendency to contract begins. At this moment, overload occurs due to excess tension, and cracks may appear.

The blade remembers the shape of the pulleys; deformation of the pulley belts occurs, which can lead to vibration of the blade. The hump on the belts is jammed, ensuring self-centering of the saw. When stopping sawing, the tension on the saw must be removed.

Band saw routing

The optimal wiring is considered when there is a mixture of 2/3 sawdust and 1/3 air between the saw blade and the wood being cut. If 80% sawdust is ejected, the saw is set correctly.

If there is a lot of loose sawdust on the cut, and there are scratches on the surface of the board, the saw will move more than necessary. The saw functions jerkily. If the spread is insufficient, hot sawdust, tightly compressed, will remain on the surface of the boards during the sawing process; this situation has a detrimental effect on the saw. And after cutting the wood, waves will remain on the material.

Before cutting, the logs are sorted by diameter:

For a larger diameter, the spread increases, but it is performed only on 1/3 of the tooth from above.
For soft wood, the spread should be increased; sharpening should be done after preparing the equipment, with obligatory observance of the tooth shape.

The indicator of the divorce device works in a stressful mode and often goes astray, so constant checking is necessary.

Sawing speed

Increasing the sawing speed results in a cleaner cut, but the service life of the saw is reduced. If the quality of the cut decreases, it is necessary to reduce the feed speed. For the initial 5 minutes, the equipment operation indicator should not be more than 1/2 of the maximum value.

Preparing for work

During operation, the sawmill requires adjustment and checking of all its important components. The most significant part of the device is the band saws.

Before starting work you must:

Check that parts and screw connections are securely fastened.
Lubricate rubbing surfaces.
Check the reliability of the grounding.
Turn on the electric motor Idling, check how the tape moves.
Check the installation of the band saw, adjusting if necessary.
To reduce the deflection of the saw blade, move the left roller 5–10 cm from the side borders of the tree.
Raise the band saw above the log and check its reverse motion.
Check the fastening of the protective covers of the saw, gear transmission, and wedge-repair transmission.

Video: Cutting methods

Choose the right coolant
Numerous experiments conducted by American researchers led them to the conclusion that it is wrong to use water as a lubricant when operating band saws. There is no need to use lubricant at all until the sawdust begins to “roll” onto the saw. If this happens, the optimal lubricant should be used: a mixture of 50% diesel fuel and 50% oil for lubricating chainsaw tires.
This mixture should be sprayed evenly on both sides of the band saw blade. Moreover, in this case, ordinary car glass cleaners work excellently. There should not be a lot of cooling solution; the operator will easily notice by the characteristic sound when it is time to “cool down”.
Using such a lubricant instead of water will also allow you to reduce the number of bloomed boards and extend the life of the belts on the drive pulleys of the sawmill, since they will no longer “go limp” from sawdust and water falling on them.
Relieve tension from the band saw as soon as you stop cutting.
During the process of sawing wood, the blade heats up, and therefore stretches and increases in length. As they cool, the saws tend to shrink back to their original size. This is where overloads appear, in other words, excess voltage. The blade also “records in memory” the shape of both pulleys of the sawmill, which also does not make its life carefree long. Add to this the inevitable deformation of the belts on the pulleys, which leads to additional vibration of the blade, as well as the “hump” on the belt that becomes wrinkled over time, which ensures self-centering of the saw on the pulleys.
Band saws - correct wiring
The layout can be considered optimal when there is a mixture of 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air between the cutting blade and the wood being processed. The ejection of 80-85% of sawdust from the cut indicates that your saw is set correctly.
If the saw spread is too large, a large amount of loose sawdust will remain on the cut, and, most likely, characteristic nicks and scratches will remain on the surface of the board.
With a small saw spread, tightly compressed, hot sawdust remains on the surface of the board. You simply can’t imagine anything worse for a saw. The sawdust should be warm to the touch, not hot or cold.
A saw that is set too far will most likely work jerkily, and a saw that is not set too far will leave “waves” on the board.
Example. When sawing a log with a diameter of 30 cm at a good feed, everything goes like clockwork. Don’t think that everything will work out just as well for you with a log with a diameter of 60 cm, because now you need to remove twice as much sawdust from the cut. Right! Divorce should be increased (by approximately 20%). Therefore, in addition to other recommendations, we allow ourselves the following: before sawing, you should sort the logs by diameter.
Remember that only the upper third of the tooth should be separated, and in no case under the “root”. After all, only the sharp corner at the very top of the tooth should participate in the sawing process. Do not forget also that the softer the wood you cut, the larger the spread should be.
And, of course, the sequence of operations is extremely important: the blade is sharpened after setting, and not vice versa. Sharpening will remove 0.002-0.003 inches, so this should be taken into account when setting.
And finally, never turn off your intuition; formulas will not help here.
The importance of regularly checking the adjuster indicator
Do not forget about such a device on your adjustable device as an indicator. It doesn't cost anything to reset it. It works in an extremely intense mode, judge for yourself: your saw has approximately 220 teeth, you sharpen the saw 15 times, it turns out that during the life of the saw the indicator is triggered 3.5 thousand times. The indicator wears out over time, so you should check its installation more often.
Band saws - tooth shape
If the thought has occurred to you that the saw will work perfectly regardless of what shape the tooth has, drive that thought away. The tooth shape has been developed and verified over the years. Why would you try to reinvent the wheel?
Practical advice: when you go to Once again to buy blades, ask for a piece of blade about 30 centimeters, make a hole in it and chain it to the sharpening machine. Here is a standard by which you can copy the shape of a tooth!
Some problems that arise during the operation of band sawmills and ways to solve them
When entering the wood, the saw “jumped up”, and then it worked smoothly until the end of the log, after which it fell down. This is the so-called “squeezing” or “squeezing”, that is, when the saw is wrung out. Most likely, the reason is that the tooth sharpening angle is too large. Try decreasing the angle by 2 degrees.
When entering the wood, the saw went up. The result is a board curved like a saber. The reason is that the sharpening angle of the tooth is too large with insufficient setting. Try decreasing the tooth angle by 2 degrees, and increasing the set point by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
The saw dives and then goes straight. This behavior is due to several reasons, for example, the cutting blade has become dull. However, most likely the sharpening angle is small, or maybe the sharpener simply did not set the stone in time. Look at the blade carefully; if the shape of the tooth seems ideal to you, then you should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees.
The saw “dives”, and the resulting board is curved, like a saber. The sharpening angle is small and at the same time the setting is insufficient. You should increase the sharpening angle by 2 degrees and increase the spread by 0.002-0.003 inches per side.
There is too much sawdust left on the board that feels loose to the touch. The divorce is too big. If you look closely, you can see characteristic scratches across the board. Divorce should be reduced.
The sawdust on the board is compressed and hot to the touch. Divorce is not enough. Should be increased.
Wave-shaped cut. If the saw is sharp, then this is due to too small a gap, you should increase the gap by 0.006-0.008 inches per side. Remember, working with an undone saw is the most serious violation of technology, leading to blade breakage!
The fabric is cracking at the trailing edge. This is due to the fact that the rear stops of the guide rollers are too far from the rear edge of the web. This distance should not exceed 0.3 mm.
Sawdust is “rolled” onto the saw blade. The gap is small and there is not enough air left in the cut, excessive friction on the sawdust occurs, which leads to heating and “baking” of wood dust on the metal. Increase the spread by 0.005 inches per side.
The sawdust “rolls” on the inner surface of the tooth, but this does not happen on the surface of the saw. Poor quality of sharpening (too high feed or too much metal removal, and, consequently, poor quality of the surface on the tooth cavity), or too high a sharpening angle of the tooth. Or they continued to saw with the blade after it had already become dull.
After regrinding, the blade becomes covered with cracks in the tooth socket. This is usually due to a change in tooth geometry. Compare the tooth geometry with the original one. Last but not least note. Many problems are caused by the sharpening stone not being refilled frequently and accurately enough.
If you consider the recommendations mentioned above to be unimportant, you may not adhere to them. Remember, no matter what perfect machine you purchase, it remains a device for “running” the saw blade through the wood. 90% of the result depends on the correct maintenance of the band saw and only 10% on the overall setting of the machine!

Myths and reality of band sawing

Part 4.1
Setting the teeth of band saws
Any timber merchant planning to purchase a sawmill naturally hopes to make a profit. But you need to remember that for stable operation of a sawmill it is necessary to prepare saws with high quality. Moreover, this will have to be done almost daily. In previous articles, we talked about setting up the process of preparing band saws, about a new method of sharpening saws, and also started talking about one of the most difficult processes in preparing saws for work - the process of setting the teeth. In this post we will talk more about this process.
Work on band saw machines, or, as they are more often called, band sawmills, however, like on any other equipment, consists of two main parts - organizational and technical. Many people neglect the first part, in vain thinking that all organizational issues can be resolved directly in the process of work. The result of such neglect is a barely breathing or closed production. In this article I will try to describe the problems that should be solved before purchasing equipment.
We are often asked: which band sawmill and which configuration is best for sawing? It seems to many that our wealth of experience in communicating with hundreds of sawmill owners and with almost all of their manufacturers, knowledge of the problems they face every day, will help give an accurate answer to this “simple” question. In fact, in the list of questions about sawing, this, although very important, question should be at the top. last place. Those who first bought a sawmill and only then thought about how to properly organize work on it, usually organized this very work for a very long time, and some were not able to organize production at all in order to receive 500-1,000, and not 50-100 rubles per sawn cubic meter of lumber. Moreover, most often they blame all the failures on the fact that they bought the wrong sawmill.
In order to make a good profit when cutting sawlogs with narrow (27-60 mm wide) band saws, you first need to solve several basic issues. Moreover, without solving at least one of the issues listed below, it is better not to take on such sawing at all, because otherwise you will get a lot of problems and a complete headache.
1. It is imperative to work independently as a machinist and sharpener at an operating sawmill. Just work for 1-2 weeks, and not look at work for 1-2 hours. If you don't do this, you will never be able to understand the intricacies of production. As a result, machinists and sharpeners will give many reasons why they cannot work better, and you will not be able to correctly assess the correctness of their arguments, which means you are unlikely to get the maximum profit.
2. Will you be able to be in production almost every day for 10-12 hours for at least the first year in order to control and debug the entire work process? Don’t think that you can entrust this to your partner or, especially, to a hired master. Unfortunately, a partner can rarely be trusted, and any hired craftsmen most often deceive entrepreneurs. I know more than one example where hired craftsmen live very well in poorly functioning industries without constant control of the owners.
3. It is necessary to decide how the sawlog will be cut:
a) to order, sawing from sawlogs required dimensions lumber, that is, suboptimally, each time losing 10-15% of the possible output volume, saving a little on warehouse costs;
b) with optimal cutting of each log, obtaining the maximum yield of lumber, but at the same time partially sending the finished product to the warehouse, with a delay in the sale of slow-moving sizes, that is, with a slight freezing of working capital in time, although in the end greater profit.
4. At first, will you independently cut sawn logs with the optimal yield of lumber and train your assistant to work in this way so that you can then replace you, or do you already have an experienced machinist who will immediately work perfectly, and not just “drive cubes.” Almost all machinists are paid for the sawn cubic meters of lumber, and not for the edged lumber obtained from this lumber. Therefore, it is more profitable for them to quickly cut thick boards, timber and take another log. Large slabs and large parts usually go to waste when cutting an unedged board. And this is lost profit. Depending on how well the production is organized, the percentage of output finished products can range from 50 to 75%.
5. Decide how machinists will receive saws:
a) you will simply issue them as needed, that is, the drivers will not be interested in long work saws and will be able to calmly tear them one after another, and you will only listen to their complaints that the framer does not know how to saw, and the sharpener sharpens the saws incorrectly, and count your losses;
b) interest everyone in caring for the saw and sawmill.
Here's an example. Payment to workers is calculated as follows: for cutting 1 m³ of lumber, the driver receives 76 rubles, two assistants - 62 rubles each. Only 200 rub. This includes the cost of a band saw based on cutting 40 cubic meters of lumber with one saw. If the saw cuts more before it breaks, the earnings are correspondingly higher. They began to cut more than 100 cubic meters with a saw. The only clarification: sawing is carried out with bimetallic saws. Deducted for a torn saw: from the driver - 450 rubles, from each assistant - 200 rubles. Only 850 rub. If the saw breaks on a nail, a new one is issued free of charge. The sharpener receives an average salary (if he serves several sawmills) from all machinists. Thus, they all have an interest in keeping their saws running for as long as possible. And now no one needs to monitor them.
Machinists monitor the operation of the sawmill more closely, since even small misalignments (beating of the pulleys, saw walking on the pulleys, changes in correct settings guide rollers, uneven supply of coolant, grinding of cleaning scrapers, etc.) lead, in addition to the formation of waves on lumber, to accelerated rupture of the saw, which is very disadvantageous for them. And any malfunction is easiest to eliminate at the beginning - there will be less defects, and subsequent possible large repair downtimes are practically eliminated. To avoid large waste, you can use various systems fines. As practice shows, drivers who have been fined once or twice cut much more competently. But all this works only when there are several teams and the driver, in extreme cases, can be replaced by an assistant. When the driver works alone, it is very difficult to cope with him.
6. Find a good mechanic in advance, that is, a person who will debug the operation of the sawmill and will constantly monitor it, maintaining it in good condition.
7. Solve the problem of the band saw preparation area, taking into account that any sawmill is only a device for pulling saws with a set of service functions. The quality of the lumber obtained during sawing (dimensional accuracy, straightness (without waves) of the surface) and the productivity of the sawmill (the amount of lumber sawn per unit of time, that is, the actual profit) depend almost entirely (with an adjusted sawmill) on the correct daily preparation of saws . There are two options:
a) find in advance a highly qualified sharpener who can try (most often unsuccessfully) to prepare saws daily using inexpensive, low-quality and outdated sharpening and setting machines. The result of such preparation is quickly torn saws, low-quality lumber (waves on the surface), low productivity;
b) you can buy right away, by paying a little more, good sharpening and setting machines, on which almost anyone can prepare saws with high quality every day and carry out sawing with maximum profit for themselves. How to choose the right sharpening and setting machines was described in previous issues of the magazine.
8. Decide how the sawing process will be organized:
a) with minimal costs, but also with minimal profit: sawing is carried out by one driver and one assistant, the saw unit works only 20-25% of the working time, the rest of the time is spent on feeding the log, preparing it for sawing (leveling, turning, etc.) and removing the finished product lumber;
b) with slightly higher costs, but in the end (due to increased productivity) an increase in real profits - the most common option. Sawing is carried out by one driver and two assistants, the saw unit is already working 25-35% of the working time;
c) with the highest possible productivity at minimal initial costs. Sawing is carried out by one driver with two assistants, but at the same time an additional 6-meter section is docked to the main rail track. Two logs are laid sequentially. Now, when one log is being sawed, the assistants perform the necessary operations on another. The saw unit operates 35-50% of the working time.
9. Decide which market you want to work in:
a) internal;
b) external.
When working for the domestic market, the productivity of the sawmill, due to a possible increase in the feed of the saw unit, can be 10-15% higher. The resulting small deviations of nominal sizes or a small wave on the surface are not of fundamental importance.
10. Decide what you want to cut at the sawmill:
a) sawing is not very fast, but very high quality ( furniture panels, valuable species of wood, etc.), sawn logs of mostly large (more than 40 cm) diameters;
b) cut mainly sawlogs with a diameter of up to 40 cm into edged lumber.
When working according to option a) you will need additional hydraulic or electromechanical devices, an electronic ruler, and an automatic return of the saw unit.
When working on option b) it is worth seriously considering how necessary these systems are. With all due respect to such systems, they improve working conditions at the sawmill, reducing its actual productivity by 10-20%, and they also constantly break down.
An experienced operator will adjust to the required size much faster than electronics (the up-down movement control of the saw unit must be electromechanical) and return the saw unit back after cutting. I know many who started working with these electronic units, but then they were simply turned off so as not to interfere. Two assistants perform all operations with a log much faster than hydraulics or electromechanics, and even when actually working with logs with a diameter of 25-35 cm they practically do not get tired. It is only necessary that the stops are not screw, but eccentric. Do you agree to such productivity losses, especially since the installation of these systems, as a rule, doubles the cost of the sawmill?
11. Decide what actual diameters of saw logs you will cut:
a) mostly diameters greater than 40 cm - when sawing such sawlogs, you need a sawmill with pulleys of at least 600 mm, allowing you to work with a band saw up to 60 mm wide and a saw length of more than 6 m;
b) more than 90% will have diameters less than 40 cm - it’s worth thinking about whether you need to overpay significantly for the opportunity to cut three to five large logs per month. In extreme cases, they can be sawn in circles. With pulley diameters of 520-560 mm, the cost of a sawmill is usually up to 30% less. When cutting with a saw 32-40 mm wide and 4-4.5 m long, while obtaining the same quality of lumber and the productivity of the sawmill, you will not constantly overpay almost one and a half times for the width and length of the band saw with almost the same cutting of each cubic meter of sawlog before breaking.
12. Decide if you need a debarker. In my opinion, this is really not the most expensive, but very useful device, since it allows the band saw to work much longer before it becomes dull, especially if cutting a dirty log.
13. Decide if you need a laser pointer. Also very convenient device, as it allows assistants to position the log faster and more accurately, thereby increasing the productivity of the sawmill and reducing waste, which often increases with suboptimal cuts.
Only when you have resolved all the issues listed above can you begin to choose a specific sawmill with the necessary equipment. Let's go back to the original to the question asked. So, which band sawmill is better than others: it breaks less, cuts efficiently and is not very expensive? The paradox is that I cannot answer this question. Almost all manufacturers existing today have been producing sawmills for 10-15 years or more. Rich experience has allowed the designers of these industries to develop and produce very good new modifications of sawmills, which in terms of parameters are practically not inferior to foreign analogues, and at a price that is an order of magnitude lower. You can get real profits much faster by building your production on the basis of Russian sawmills. But the problem with all our productions is that our manufacturers could always develop and produce a prototype and show a polished model at exhibitions, and receive diplomas for these design works. But, unfortunately, almost no one can constantly produce high-quality products. Performing a high-quality weld, manufacturing components for precise compliance with all necessary parallelisms and perpendicularities only in special jigs, the concept of tolerances when connecting components in 0.01 mm or 0.1°, high-quality electrical wiring connections and much more, that is, everything that can be called in one capacious expression - production culture, is still an almost impossible requirement for many of our manufacturers. Therefore, when purchasing a sawmill from a Russian, Belarusian, or Ukrainian manufacturer, you must always remember that you are buying a construction set that you will assemble and bring to a greater or lesser extent to normal condition the first 1-3 months. There's nothing scary here. It’s just that at the initial stage you definitely need either good personal experience or the presence of a competent mechanic. But then these sawmills will work no worse than imported ones, and the money saved can be used in the form of working capital or used to purchase additional equipment.
They talk and write a lot about the low productivity of sawing sawn logs with band sawmills operating narrow saws 27-60 mm wide.
As a guide, I will give the following figures: with a well-functioning sawmill, high-quality preparation of the saw and organization of the sawing process according to option 8b, the average yield of edged lumber should be 1 m³ per hour with a real yield of 70-75% of the finished product from the log. With proper organization of production, working in several shifts, it is realistic to receive 400-600 m³ of finished edged lumber per month from only one sawmill.
Now, if you independently calculate all the initial costs, productivity, and the actual output of finished products from one log, you can be convinced that sawing up to 3 thousand m³ of sawn logs per month with band sawmills operating narrow saws 27-60 mm wide will be the most economically feasible compared to all other cutting methods.
I am sure that all the talk about the impossibility of working productively and obtaining good quality lumber at sawmills of this type is being conducted by those who simply failed to properly organize the work of their production.

How to work correctly on band sawmills

Advice from professionals
1. GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT THE MACHINE
The horizontal band saw machine is used for sawing wood of any hardness into boards, beams, and slats. Sawing occurs by moving the saw frame from cutting tool(band saw) along the fixed rail guides of the band sawmill.
The use of a band sawmill allows you to:
produce boards with high quality surfaces made of material
get a board with an accuracy of 2 mm. with a length of 6 m;
band sawmill allows you to reduce waste by 2-3 times,
reduce energy costs;
quickly adjust the sawing size,
The band sawmill is capable of sawing short workpieces (from 1.0 meters) and producing products up to 2 millimeters thick.
The band sawmill operates under UHL 4 conditions (GOST 15150-69). The band sawmill is equipped with an electromechanical saw unit lift.
2. “Band sawmills” - operation and design:
2.1 Main components and parts of the band sawmill:
A bed that moves along rail guides in a horizontal direction;
Saw frame;
Saw frame lifting mechanism;
Electrical cabinet;
Log clamp;
Movable slider of the driven pulley;
Drive pulley;
Driven pulley;
V-belt drive;
Rail guides for band sawmill;
Band saw tensioning mechanism;
Band saw mounting connector;
Band sawmill pulley housing
Coolant reservoir
Fixed saw guide
Saw guide is movable
The bed of the band sawmill has a U-shape and soles with rollers for moving the saw frame along the rails and felt brushes that clean the guide from sawdust. The saw frame is lifted by two sliders located on the bed posts. The movement is carried out by a two-way, synchronously connected chain transmission, driven by an electric motor, through a gearbox.
The frame is made of two channels, which are located parallel and connected to each other. The driving saw pulley is fixedly fixed on one end of the frame, and the driven one, which has the ability to move longitudinally, is fixed on the other. The band saw blade is tensioned by a spring-screw mechanism, the spring dampens thermal expansion saw blade. When making a band sawmill, the tension is calibrated for a saw 35 centimeters wide. The risks on the tensioner body and washer are equal to a tension force of 525 kilograms. In the front beam of the band sawmill and on the slider of the driven pulley there are two locks for removing and installing the saw blade. On the brackets located in the middle of the frame there are two band saw guides (movable and fixed), which are equipped with support rollers and an adjustment system and bar. Torque is transmitted from the sawmill engine to the drive pulley by a V-belt drive. The coolant reservoir is mounted on top of the saw blade protection. The liquid supply is regulated by taps located on the tank. The control panel for the band sawmill is located on the top crossbar of the machine.
The guides are collapsible from 3 sections, which is convenient for transportation. At the bottom there are support plates into which the anchor bolts. On top of the guides of the band sawmill there are log supports. The log is fixed on the rail guides with four screw clamps and a stop that provides 90 degrees.
3. ADJUSTING THE SAW PULLEYS
3.1. The machine provides for adjustment of the position of both pulleys in relation to each other in the horizontal and vertical planes. It is necessary to ensure that the band saw with a tension of 6-8 kg/mm2. in cross-section, one branch did not come off the rims of the saw pulleys.
3.2. First of all, the pulleys are adjusted in the vertical plane, setting them at right angles to the saw frame. To do this, on the slider of the driven pulley, a bolt Ml0 is screwed from below to its axis, and on the drive pulley, adjustment is carried out by installing spacer washers or plates. This operation is carried out by the manufacturer.
3.3 To regulate the position of the horizontal plane saw pulleys, two bolts Ml2 are screwed into the ends of the frame from the side of the driving pulley, and one bolt is screwed into the axis of the driven pulley.
It is necessary to adjust the pulleys of the band sawmill in the following sequence:
3.3.1 Turn off the power supply circuit breaker on the control panel.
3.3.2 Open protective covers saw pulleys.
3.3.3 Place the band saw on the pulleys so that it protrudes beyond the edges of the pulleys by the height of the tooth plus 2-5 mm.
3.3.4 Close the movable connectors (locks).
3.3.5 Tension the band saw by turning the tension mechanism nut to the optimal value for this type of band saw (at the rate of 6-8 kg/mm2).
3.3.6. By rotating the driven pulley with your hand as you cut (counterclockwise), you need to see what position the band saw will take on the pulleys. If the belt runs outward by an equal amount from both pulleys, then, without weakening the tension of the saw, release the lock nut Ml6, which secures the axis of the driven pulley to the saw frame (saw frame slide).
3.3.7 Then loosen the M12 lock nut and screw in the Ml2 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 lock nut and M16 lock nut.
3.3.8 Repeat point 3.3.6 and if the tape runs out, repeat the adjustment until the correct result is obtained.
3.3.9 If the tape runs inward by an even amount, then it is necessary to loosen the tension of the band saw.
3.3.10. Loosen the lock nut Ml6, the lock nut M12 and unscrew the M12 bolt a small amount, then tighten the M12 and M16 nuts.
3.3.11 If the tape has taken the position according to the instructions, then the adjustment has been performed correctly.
3.3.12 If the band saw immediately runs away from the drive pulley when rotating, then adjustment should begin with it.
3.3.13 To do this, depending on the direction of the belt running (outward or inward), loosen the left or right lock nuts Ml6 and make adjustments in the same sequence as on the driven pulley.
3.3.14 After adjustment, tighten all nuts.
3.3.15 Close the doors of the saw pulley housings.
3.3.16 Turn on the automatic power supply. energy on the control panel.
3.3.17 Briefly turn on the drive of the saw pulleys and make sure that the saw blade is in the correct position. The machine is ready for use.
4. REQUIREMENTS FOR SAW BLADES
1. During the operation of the band sawmill, to increase the service life of the band saw, it is necessary to properly tension it on the pulleys.
1.1 The amount of tension, depending on its width, is determined using a “Tensometer” device.
1.2 Attention! The band saw should not be in operation for more than 2 hours. After this time, it must be removed from the machine and hung freely for at least 24 hours to relieve fatigue stress.
2 Use the correct lubricant for the band saw blade.
In most cases, simply water or water with the addition of detergent(“Fairy”, etc.). However, when low temperatures It is best to use a mixture of 50%-80% diesel fuel or kerosene and 50%-20% motor oil or oil for lubricating chainsaw tires. The use of turpentine also gives good results when sawing coniferous trees.
If water is used as a coolant, it is necessary to wipe the pulleys and belt with oil after completion of work.
3. Always loosen the band saw tension.
When you are finished, release the tension from the saw. During operation, the blades heat up and stretch, and then as they cool, they contract by tenths of a millimeter during each cooling period.” Therefore, belts left on pulleys under load overload themselves and develop an imprint from the two pulleys, which causes cracks to appear in the spaces between the teeth.
4. Use correct tooth set.
The alignment is correct if in the space between the saw blade and the wood being processed you have 65-70% sawdust and 30-35% air. If your tooth set is too wide for the weight or thickness of the wood available, there will be too much air and not enough sawdust in the cut. You will have excessively large losses due to sawdust, and as a result, greater roughness of the processed wood. If the divorce is insufficient, you will not get a strong enough air flow for removing sawdust from the cut. A sign of this is hot sawdust. This can cause the most devastating damage to the saw: operating intervals will be short and the saw will fail prematurely. The sawdust should be cool to the touch. And finally, if the cut is insufficient and the sharpening angle is incorrect, the saw will cut a wave on the board. From our point of view, you cannot work with the same tooth set with logs different diameters, timber and timber.
You must sort the timber.
For every 20-25 centimeters increase in size, it is necessary to increase the wiring by approximately 18%, depending on whether the wood is hard or soft, wet or dry. The only way to achieve the desired layout is to carry out test cuts on a specific log. Increase the setting by 5-8 hundredths of a millimeter on each side until tooth marks become visible. This means that you are working with a 50/50 mixture of air and sawdust. After this, reduce the tooth set by 8-10 hundredths on each side, and you will achieve desired result. Please note: You should only spread the top eighth of the tooth, not the middle or bottom. You don't want the gap between the teeth to be completely filled when sawing. When you work with softwood, whether wet or dry, the chips expand in volume to 4-7 times their cellular state. Hardwoods, wet or dry, only expand 1/2 to 3 times in volume. This means that if you are sawing 45cm pine logs, you will need to set the teeth 20% wider than when cutting 45cm oak logs. Always space your teeth before sharpening.
5. Sharpen your saw correctly.
There is only one way to sharpen band saw blades. The stone should go down the surface of the tooth, around the base of the cavity between the teeth and up along reverse side tooth in one continuous movement.
You must maintain the profile of the tooth and interdental cavity.
The space between the teeth (gallette) is not a sawdust bin. The power flow of air, cooling of steel and removal of sawdust depend on it.
If you have the correct teeth set, air is supplied along the log at the same speed as the saw, as a result of which sawdust is sucked into the gallet. The sawdust cools it significantly as it passes around the inner and outside next tooth. It is necessary that the space between the teeth be filled by 40%, which will provide the necessary cooling and increase the operating time of the saw.
6. Install correct angle sharpening.
Thanks to the deep gallets, we can use reduced sharpening angles, which transfer less heat to the tip of the tooth. The tape series uses a 10 degree hook angle that is capable of penetrating most medium hard to medium soft wood surfaces.
The general rule is this: the harder the wood, the smaller the sharpening angle.
Warning: Do not trust the scales and measuring rulers on your sharpening machine!
The pins and guides on it wear out. During the work, the profile of the stone changes.
To check the correct sharpening angles, use a protractor. Attention; We recommend changing saws every two hours of continuous operation, allowing them to rest for at least a day.
During the operation of the machine, there is a need to regulate individual components in order to restore their normal operation.

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