Growing cabbage in open ground. How to grow large heads of cabbage

Beginning summer residents often think that there is nothing difficult about growing cabbage: after all, such excellent heads of cabbage grow in the collective farm fields every year. But when you try to grow cabbage in your dacha, you are often faced with the fact that there is not even close to such a harvest! This happens because important agricultural practices are not followed, which I will tell you about in this article.

If you want to know how to grow a good harvest of cabbage in open ground, be sure to apply these five important advice, without which you will not get large and strong heads of cabbage.

1. Temperature

One of the most important mistakes of novice gardeners is that they do not know that cabbage does not tolerate heat and drought. Therefore, you should not plant it in greenhouses or greenhouses! You will get a good cabbage harvest only in open ground. You can grow seedlings in a greenhouse (it’s easier than), and then you must transplant the cabbage seedlings into open ground.

The optimal temperature for cabbage growth is 22 degrees. As the temperature increases, the growth rate of cabbage will slow down, and if the soil also dries out, the plant will stop growing altogether.
Therefore, on very hot days it is necessary to shade the bed; it is recommended to make a canopy for the cabbage so that the plant is in the shade and loses less moisture. The canopy can be made from white spunbond or burlap.

2. Regular watering

Cracking of heads of cabbage is another problem faced by summer residents who water cabbage only once a week, on weekends. Without moisture, the growth of heads of cabbage slows down, and with abundant watering is rapidly accelerating. Too rapid growth of the plant, caused by excess moisture, leads to cracks in the heads of cabbage.
To avoid this, you need to shade the heads of cabbage and mulch the soil. And if after a long drought it rains heavily, it is worth trimming (for example with a shovel) the roots of the plant on one side to reduce the flow of moisture.

3. Soil care

It is very important to loosen the soil once every one to two weeks. It is also worth hilling the plant - this will increase its stability. Early and middle varieties of cabbage can be hilled twice a season, and late varieties - three. The best time for hilling will be after rain or watering, since then the soil will stick well to the stalk of the plant.

4. Pest protection

Another problem you encounter when growing cabbage in open ground is insect pests, which can leave you without a good harvest. We definitely need to fight them!

Available for sale effective drugs to combat cabbage pests. But those who do not want to use chemicals on their site can use the following environmentally friendly method:

A mixture of ash and shag (1:2, one Matchbox by 2 sq.m.). You need to pollinate the heads of cabbage and the soil under them two to three times a week, but before doing this you should wet the plants - this helps the mixture stick.

5. Feeding

And the last thing without which you cannot grow a good harvest of cabbage is fertilizing.
After planting cabbage in the ground, you need to feed it! Early varieties are fertilized twice a season. Medium and late varieties need to be fed three to four times throughout the season.
Fertilizers (half a liter of mullein, 30 g of azofoska and 15 g of “Solution” or “Kemira”) must be diluted in 10 liters of water and poured in doses of one liter into each hole.

There is probably not a single vegetable garden that does not grow such a native Russian vegetable crop as cabbage. This vegetable was brought from the shores Mediterranean Sea, but, despite the diversity of the Russian climate, it has taken root well in our dachas and garden plots. Growing a decent harvest of cabbage is not difficult, but to do this you need to understand what diseases this crop is susceptible to and what pests are not averse to “crunching” cabbage leaves.

In the previous article in the series “Organic farming: biological protection against pests and weeds,” the site talked about what environmental methods of controlling diseases and pests are used in organic farming, and in the article “Diseases and pests of cucumber - protecting yourself without chemicals” we figured out how to care for cucumbers without using harmful chemicals. Today we’ll talk about growing cabbage, consider methods of biological control of pests and diseases of this crop.

Today there are many types of cabbage. These are well-known white cabbage varieties that were grown back in the days Ancient Rus'. Cauliflower and red cabbage became widespread in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century. The cookbooks of this time also mention kohlrabi, called “repina cabbage”. Varieties such as Brussels sprouts, Savoy sprouts and broccoli began to be grown here in the second half of the last century.

It is not for nothing that cabbage has taken root in our lands with an unstable climate. The peculiarity of this crop is that it easily tolerates frosts down to minus 3 degrees, and Savoy from a temperature of minus 5 becomes even tastier.

Despite the variety of varieties, the agricultural technology for growing each of them is not particularly different. Cabbage loves water very much. If there is insufficient watering, it is almost impossible to grow a good harvest; in addition, when watering it is necessary to maintain uniformity, otherwise the head of cabbage may crack.

It is best to grow cabbage on loamy soils rich in organic matter with neutral acidity, and if the soil is acidic, it is necessary in late autumn or in early spring add lime in the proportion of 4-5 kg ​​per 10 sq.m. Such cultivation of the soil is an excellent prevention of most fungal diseases, including such a dangerous disease as cabbage clubroot, the spores of which die in an alkaline environment.

The most suitable fertilizer for any variety of cabbage is rotted cow manure or well-ripened compost. The use of unripe compost or fresh manure makes the leaves watery, tasteless and unstable to various diseases. For a head of cabbage to grow large, it must receive a lot of food. Therefore, even on highly fertile lands, a fairly large amount of organic fertilizer must be applied to cabbage (8-10 buckets of manure or compost per 10 sq.m.). Any species responds well to feeding with fermented nettle infusion diluted with water in a ratio of 1:5. The first feeding should be carried out 2-3 weeks after planting the seedlings, and then - at intervals of two weeks 5-6 times.

From cabbage you can prepare a large number of tasty and healthy dishes, many varieties are remarkably stored all winter and are a source of essential vitamins and microelements. However, not only humans love cabbage for its juicy, crunchy leaves. This crop has many pests in the garden that you need to learn to resist.

Cabbage pests

Various flying and jumping insects sometimes cause a lot of trouble for the gardener. The main dangerous pests of cabbage include: cabbage fly, cruciferous flea beetles and bugs, cabbage fly, and naked slugs.

Cabbage whites

This pest is widespread throughout almost the entire territory of Russia and neighboring countries. The whitefish feeds not only on cabbage, but also on all other cruciferous crops (radish, turnip, radish, watercress and others).

Cabbage butterfly is a butterfly with white wings with a black border. These butterflies feed on flower nectar, mate and lay eggs on the underside of cabbage leaves. The eggs hatch into yellowish-green caterpillars with black spots, which feed on cabbage leaves, leaving only the central veins.

A good effect in the fight against this pest is given by spraying cabbage with a solution of wood ash at the rate of: 2 cups of ash and a tablespoon liquid soap for 10 liters of water.

If there are few caterpillars, they can be collected by hand. Some gardeners place sticks with eggshells hanging on them in their cabbage beds. It is believed that the shell repels cabbage weeds that are about to lay eggs. The butterfly mistakes the shell for similar creatures and “thinks” that the territory is already occupied.

Spraying cabbage beds with infusion of tomato tops or a decoction of onion peel will scare away the cabbage whites with an unusual smell, and it will not multiply in your beds.

Cruciferous flea beetles and bugs

These pests cause significant damage to all cruciferous crops, and cabbage especially suffers from them. Cruciferous flea beetles are small black beetles up to 3 mm in size with hopping hind legs. Cruciferous bugs are insects with bright colors - red, yellow or white stripes, spots or lines on a black or green-metallic background.

Fleas and bedbugs are scraped off upper layer leaves and suck out plant juices, causing yellowing, wilting and drying out of cabbage plants. These insects are especially dangerous for seedlings. A large number of pests in the garden can lead to the death of young plants.

A fairly effective means of control during the period of mass appearance of fleas and bedbugs is to pollinate cabbage beds with a mixture of tobacco dust with fluff lime or ash in a 1:1 ratio. This procedure is carried out several times with an interval of 4-5 days. If not large quantities You can collect bedbugs by hand, and to catch fleas, you can place fabric flags coated with non-drying glue on the beds.

Cabbage fly

This dangerous pest looks like a regular one house fly. She lays eggs in the ground at the base of the stem, from which white larvae about 8 mm long hatch. The larvae can move from one plant to another, gnawing the stem and reaching the root along it. Damaged plants become bluish-lilac in color, grow poorly, wither and die.

The main enemy of the cabbage fly and its larvae are predatory insects such as ground beetles, which feed on the larvae of the pest. How to attract these beneficial insects we talked about our land in the article “Biological protection from pests and weeds.”

The main task in the fight against cabbage fly is to prevent it from laying eggs. To do this, the ground around the plant can be sprinkled with ash or lime (the larvae die in an alkaline environment); you can also build a mechanical barrier in the form of a cardboard collar 10 cm in diameter, which is placed on the base of the stem. This barrier prevents the larvae from reaching the cabbage. Well-mulched soil also serves as protection against cabbage flies, but mulch is an excellent hiding place for slugs and is dangerous to use in cabbage beds.

Naked slugs

Slugs are worm-like mollusks that have a sharp tongue with teeth, which they use to bite into leaves and can eat them to the very base. Slugs become active in rainy, damp weather, feed at night, and during the day they hide under various shelters (boards, piles of branches, grass). If there are a lot of pests on the site, then such shelters can be made artificially in the beds and used as traps, from under which slugs can be collected manually during the day.

To combat slugs, an infusion of hot pepper, prepared according to the following recipe, works well: 1 kg of capsicum is crushed, poured with 10 liters of water and infused for two days. Then it is brought to a boil and left for another day, then the pepper is ground, the resulting mixture is squeezed and filtered. This concentrate can be used immediately, or can be stored sealed in a dark, cool place. To treat cabbage beds, dilute 125 grams of concentrate in 10 liters of water, add 40 grams of laundry soap diluted in hot water, and spray the soil in places where slugs accumulate and feed.

If you sprinkle mustard powder on the ground around the cabbage, slugs will not be able to get into your garden bed; freshly slaked ground lime and a mixture of ash and bleach have the same effect.

Various plants planted near the cabbage will be a good protection against all the pests described above. If you plant garlic around the garden bed, the cabbage fly will never fly to it. Basil, mint, dill, coriander will repel fleas, bedbugs and cabbage whites. And borage with its rough leaves will not allow slugs into the cabbage.

Today, many gardeners use covering nonwoven materials such as lutrasil, spunbond and agril to combat flying pests. Pests simply cannot get to the plants they cover.

Cabbage diseases

No less than from pests, cabbage can suffer from various diseases caused by fungi and other soil microorganisms. These diseases occur during prolonged rainy weather or due to improper cultivation practices. Most dangerous diseases cabbage are considered: clubroot, yellowness (fusarium wilt), black leg and white rot.

Clubroot cabbage

The most dangerous fungal disease, most often affecting white cabbage and cauliflower. The first signs of the disease are: slower growth, yellowing and wilting, growths on the roots of various shapes (spherical, vesicular, spindle-shaped). Clubroot most often attacks cabbage growing in waterlogged, acidic soil with insufficient nutrients.

Clubroot cabbage is an insidious disease that is easier to prevent than to treat (damaged plants cannot be saved). Once in your garden, the spores of this fungus can remain there for 6-8 years, and removing them will be extremely problematic. You can introduce clubroot into the soil by planting purchased diseased seedlings. Therefore, when purchasing, you must carefully consider the roots of young plants and try not to purchase seedlings from random people on the market.

To prevent disease, in case of high acidity of the soil, it is necessary to lim it in the fall or spring at the rate of 200-300 grams of fluff lime per 1 sq.m. land. For these purposes, you can use dolomite flour in the same quantities.

Planting seedlings in early dates, since cold soil is less dangerous - clubroot does not develop at low temperatures. To avoid infection, do not pour into the holes fresh manure or compost, wood ash applied to the soil during planting helps to prevent the disease.

It is important that if the cabbage has been affected by clubroot, then cruciferous plants cannot be planted in the place where it grows for 6 years. Sick plants should not be placed on a compost heap; they must be collected and burned.

Blackleg

A fungal disease that affects seed sprouts and seedlings young. The presence of the disease can be determined by the thinning and blackening of the base of the stem with the formation of a characteristic constriction. The stem rots and is easily pulled out of the ground.

The development of the disease can be triggered by high humidity and sharp fluctuations in air temperature, as well as dense plantings and poor ventilation. It should be noted that black leg most often develops on cabbage seedlings grown in greenhouses.

To prevent the occurrence of the disease, the soil must be treated with a raspberry-violet solution of potassium permanganate before planting seeds. To avoid waterlogging while watering seedlings, dusting the soil with sifted ash in a layer of 1-2 cm will help. Sick plants noticed should be immediately removed from the garden bed.

Yellowness (fusarium wilt)

This very harmful disease is typical for early varieties of white cabbage and cauliflower; kohlrabi, Brussels sprouts and broccoli can also become infected. The causative agent of the disease is a soil microorganism that penetrates through the roots or damage to the plant into its above-ground part. This makes it difficult for water to move within the crop and the cabbage wilts. This disease is especially dangerous in dry, hot weather. At this time, Fusarium wilt can lead to the complete destruction of your bed. The optimal soil temperature for infection is 15-17 degrees, and air temperature and humidity are not particularly important for this pathogen. The main indicator of the development of the disease is the yellow-green color of the leaves and their loss of turgor. Then the diseased leaves fall off, the growth of the head of cabbage slows down and becomes distorted.

If infected plants are found, they should be immediately removed from the garden bed. Unfortunately, today there are no reliable measures to combat this scourge, so scientists have developed varieties that are resistant to yellowness. If you know that an outbreak of this disease is possible in your garden, it is best to use them for growing. To the most resistant varieties white cabbage include: Kolobok, Extra, Triumph, Novator, Valentina and many others; among the color ones, Guarantee and Moscow Cannery are particularly resistant.

White rot

A fairly common fungal disease that affects most varieties of cabbage. Plants planted on heavy loamy soils are especially affected.

White rot primarily affects root collar and lower leaves of cabbage. Infected tissues become discolored, appear watery, and a coating of cotton-like white mycelium forms on their surface. Over time, the mycelium becomes denser, turning into large black spots of various shapes. White rot is especially harmful during storage; this disease significantly reduces the “keeping quality” indicators - cabbage infected with this fungus cannot be stored for a long time.

White rot usually progresses during rainy weather or high humidity in greenhouses. There are no effective measures to combat this disease today, and so far it has not been possible to develop varieties resistant to this disease. Therefore, the main way to prevent the development of white rot is to observe crop rotation and proper agricultural techniques when growing cabbage. Later dates for sowing seeds and planting seedlings intended for seed purposes will help reduce the vulnerability of plants. Harvesting cabbage before frost will protect the crop from developing disease during storage. If foci of infection are detected, both in beds and in cellars and other vegetable storage areas, they should be immediately removed and destroyed by burning.

Other problems when growing cabbage

In order to grow a decent cabbage harvest, it is necessary to observe the optimal watering and fertilizing regime. If the agricultural cultivation technology is violated for any reason, problems such as cracking of the head of cabbage or the development of blossom end rot may occur.

Heads of cabbage crack when a period of slow growth abruptly gives way to more vigorous development, while the upper leaves stop growing and harden, and the inner leaves begin to gain mass, as a result of which the head of cabbage bursts. This phenomenon is associated with a sharp change in weather conditions, when cold and dry weather suddenly changes to warm and humid. Cracking of the head of cabbage can occur with uneven watering and uneven application of organic fertilizers.

Cabbage blossom end rot looks like the death of the edges of the upper leaves, and it is associated with an irrational, unbalanced diet. The manifestation of this problem means that there is an excess of nitrogen and potassium in the soil, as well as a lack of calcium and phosphorus. Adding phosphate rock to the soil in a proportion of 2.5 kg per 10 sq.m. will help solve the problem.

Cabbage is considered a valuable dietary product containing a large amount of vitamins and microelements necessary for humans. Cabbage dishes are used in various diets aimed at stabilizing and reducing weight and normalizing metabolism. Having mastered simple agricultural techniques and studied natural methods of protection against pests and diseases, you will be able to completely abandon the use of harmful chemicals, which will give you the opportunity to provide your family with an environmentally friendly product, which is especially important in our time.

Video on the topic

The secrets of a good cabbage harvest lie in the selection suitable variety, compliance with the timing of planting seedlings in prepared mail, careful planting in appropriate place and complete care. This is a cold-resistant and light-loving crop that grows in almost all regions of Russia.

Soil acidity in the range from 6.5 to 7.5 is considered optimal for cabbage growth. temperature regime 17-19оС.

Care measures include abundant watering, thorough loosening, proper hilling, treatment against pests and diseases, and timely application of feeding compounds.

To plant cabbage seedlings, you should not take soil from the beds. Spores and fungi that live in the soil can easily attack weak shoots. It is better to use purchased soil for seedlings or prepare the soil in advance. The earth is steamed and treated with a solution of 10 liters of water and 40 g of colloidal sulfur. Before planting seeds in the soil, they are hardened by immersion in hot water and then in cold water. The hot water temperature should not exceed 50 °C.

Requirements for light and heat

Cabbage is resistant to low temperatures. The thermal regime should be taken into account when growing seedlings. The optimal temperature for preparing seedlings is 15-20°C. Under such conditions, at least 90% of seed hatching and seedling formation occurs. Increasing the temperature to 25 ° C impairs germination. Therefore, it is more expedient to grow seedlings in a greenhouse or room. Do not cover the soil with seeds with film. This may cause overheating.

Favorable temperature conditions for seedling growth:

• cabbage varieties – 12-15°C;
• Chinese cabbage – 16-18 °C;
• cauliflower – 16-18 oC.

At night, it is necessary to maintain a temperature limit of at least 8-10 oC.

After transplanting cabbage seedlings of any type into open ground, the optimal temperature conditions for its growth and setting a head of cabbage are 18-22 ° C.

For planting cabbage, it is better to choose open, ventilated places. Cabbage is a light-loving crop, so it should not be planted near buildings or tall plants. The longer the length daylight hours, the more intensively the cabbage will grow.

Watering cabbage

Cabbage grows well with regular, abundant watering. White cabbage is moisture-loving. If you live in a region with an arid climate and infrequent rain, it is more advisable to give preference to kohlrabi and savoy cabbage. These species are not much inferior to white cabbage in terms of taste and benefits and have a deep root system, which provides the plant with moisture from the deep layers of the soil.

When to water cabbage

At the stage of planting seedlings, it is undesirable to overwater the soil in which the seeds are planted. The root system must independently develop deeper in order to subsequently feed the vegetable from the depths. As the seedlings grow, the volume of watering should be increased. Young cabbage requires watering in a volume of at least two liters per plant.

At the stage of setting heads or forming a flower head, cabbage should be watered abundantly due to its high moisture requirement. The volume of water should be at least 3-4 liters.

Watering in small quantities is fraught with insufficient development of the root system and growth deficiency of cabbage. Optimal time watering - morning and evening. It's best to water your vegetables before the hot midday sun sets in to prevent moisture from quickly evaporating from the plants and soil. You should wait until it cools down in the evening. The volume of watering is reduced two weeks before harvesting. Otherwise, the heads of cabbage will crack.

How to water cabbage correctly

It is more advisable to water cabbage from the edge of the hole to prevent the soil from being washed away and the formation of holes. Do not use a high-pressure jet. It is better to use a sprinkler mounted on the spout of a watering can or hose. This will ensure complete watering and effective wetting of the soil.

What water is better to water cabbage

Cabbage is undemanding to water quality. To obtain heads of cabbage without endangering your health, it is recommended to use running, settled water. The culture tolerates cold water well. Water from nearby natural reservoirs should not be used for irrigation due to the content of silty particles that can get between the leaves and contribute to rotting.

To protect the heads of cabbage in hot weather, cover the cabbage with non-woven fabric. The material is not removed during watering, since the structure of the fabric does not prevent the penetration of water. The event not only effectively retains moisture and creates optimal conditions for growth, but also protects the plant from pests.

Loosening cabbage

Another measure aimed at obtaining a good harvest of cabbage in open ground is loosening. It is necessary to saturate the soil with oxygen and remove excess moisture from the soil. After watering, the soil becomes compacted and needs to be loosened and at the same time get rid of weeds. For these purposes, use a small garden tools with curved teeth.

The timing for loosening cabbage is as follows:

• the first loosening is 3-5 days after transplanting cabbage seedlings into open ground. The soil around the plant is loosened to a depth of no more than 5-6 cm;
• the second loosening - 10-12 days after the first. The soil is loosened to a depth of 10-12 cm;
• subsequent loosening is carried out together with hilling.

The depth and frequency of loosening should be adjusted depending on the condition and type of soil. It is recommended to loosen heavy clay soils more often.

Hilling cabbage

Hilling is the procedure of lifting and loosening the soil around a plant to form a hillock. The event promotes:

• development of adventitious roots;
• weed control;
• saturation of the soil with oxygen.

Hilling should be done when the soil is moist. The procedure begins with the appearance of new cabbage leaves after transplanting the seedlings into open ground. The second hilling is carried out 10-12 days after the first hilling. The next hilling must be carried out during the formation of a head of cabbage or the formation of a colored head.

On a note!

Cabbage with a short stalk does not need frequent hilling. One procedure after planting seedlings at the stage of formation of new leaves is enough.

During the hilling procedure, Brussels sprouts are strengthened by tying the plant to a peg.

Feeding cabbage

To ensure a rich harvest of cabbage, it must be fed regularly. The time and composition of fertilizing depends on the type of crop, the type of soil for seedlings and the condition of the soil where the cabbage will be planted.

Particular attention should be paid to the period of intensive leaf growth and the phase of formation of a head of cabbage or a colored head. At this time, fertilizing with potassium is necessary for any variety.

Low temperatures weaken the soil and slow down all biological processes. Therefore, care should be taken to apply nitrogen fertilizers to spring time until the onset of stable heat.

Cabbage

Early varieties of cabbage need to be fed at least 2-3 times. Mid- and late-ripening cabbage varieties are fertilized 3-4 times per season. Top dressing should combine organic and mineral fertilizers.

When applying fertilizer in the form of dry mineral fertilizers, you should prevent them from getting on the leaves.

First feeding of cabbage

The first feeding is carried out 10-15 days after planting the seedlings. You must enter:

• the mineral composition for feeding cabbage should be at least 50-100 g per 10 sq.m. ammonium nitrate or a mixture of 100-150 g of urea, 70-100 g of superphosphate and 50-80 g of potassium salt.
• organic feeding can be organized from infusion weed. To do this, you need to pour 5 parts of weeds with 1 part of water. You can add cow manure and bird droppings to the infusion at the rate of 1:10 and 1:20, respectively. Each plant must have at least 0.5 liters of fertilizer.

If the soil is sufficiently fertilized, then only nitrogen fertilizers are applied. To do this, you can only use ammonium nitrate or urea at the rate of 100-150 g per 10 square meters. m.

Second feeding of cabbage

The second feeding is applied in the form of nitrogen fertilizer 10-15 days after the first feeding. The composition used is the same as in the first feeding. At least 1 liter must be used per plant.

Third feeding of cabbage

Feeding is carried out 15 days after the second application of fertilizing. It is necessary to water the plants with the following infusion - add an infusion of cow manure (in a ratio of 1:5) and 30 g of superphosphate to 10 liters of water. The solution is thoroughly mixed and poured onto plants at a rate of at least 1.5 liters per plant.

Fourth feeding of cabbage

The last fourth feeding is carried out 3-4 weeks before the expected harvest. The event is aimed at long-term preservation of heads of cabbage after harvesting. The fourth feeding is the application of a solution of 10 liters and 40 g of potassium sulfate. At least 2 liters should be poured under each bush.

Additional spraying

Spraying cabbage with a solution of microelements helps to obtain a rich harvest of heads of cabbage. To do this, prepare a solution from:

• 10 liters of water;
• 10 g manganese sulfate;
• 0.1 potassium iodide;
• 5 g boronodalite fertilizer;
• 2 g molybdenum ammonium;
• 3 g copper sulfate.

The solution is thoroughly mixed and the plants are sprayed with a sprayer.

Cauliflower

Cauliflower should be fed with a composition containing a predominance of potassium fertilizers. Organic fertilizer consists of 10 liters of water, cow manure infusion (1:5) and 40 g of superphosphate. The mineral composition is 100-150 g of ammonium nitrate per 10 sq.m. Fertilizers are applied every 15 days, alternating organic and mineral compositions.

During the period of setting a head of cabbage, it is necessary to fertilize the cabbage with boron and molybdenum.

Cauliflower grows well in alkaline soils. Therefore, it is advisable to apply at least 0.5 liters of a solution of 10 liters of water and 3 tbsp every 3 weeks under each bush. spoons of calcium nitrate. The composition can be replaced with a solution of lime or dolomite in a ratio of 10 liters of water to 200 ml of substance.

Broccoli

Broccoli is a capricious crop and is demanding on soil fertility. To get a good broccoli harvest, you need to apply nitrogen fertilizers in doses so as not to cause intensive leaf growth.

Brussels sprouts

Brussels sprouts should be fed weekly. Used for fertilizer organic fertilizers in the form of a solution of cow manure in a ratio of 1:5 and a mineral composition of 10 liters of water and 3 tbsp. spoons of azofoska.

Leaf scraps

Tearing off the lower leaves of cabbage is not necessary due to the fact that they accumulate a supply of useful microelements and substances. Once the leaves are torn off, the plant will direct its growth to regrow them.

Another function of the lower leaves is to protect the head of cabbage from pests and a number of diseases. Waxy coating and dense sheet protects the head of cabbage from drying out and evaporation of moisture from the soil. It is advisable to tear off the lower leaves only before harvesting the heads of cabbage. The torn leaves can be used to feed animals. They contain a lot of vitamin C. If you tear off the lower leaves while the head is setting, the head itself will contain less ascorbic acid.

Only yellow or rotten leaves should be torn off. You need to remove the cabbage leaf carefully, slightly retreating from the trunk and stalk. Cabbage juice may attract some pests. To prevent aphid invasion, dill, celery, calendula or marigolds are planted between the rows. Scented plants repel pests.

Protection from diseases

Cabbage is susceptible to a number of diseases during its growth process. Some of the most common are:

Blackleg

The disease affects the root collar in the form of black or brown plaque. As a result, the root becomes thinner and rots. The disease is favored by acidic and waterlogged soils. As a means of control, moderate watering and application of a solution of 1 liter of water and 0.5 manganese potassium to the seedlings are used;

Mucous bacteriosis

A disease that affects the plant during the head setting period. It manifests itself as yellowing of the leaves, the appearance of mucus on them, and the appearance of an unpleasant putrid odor from the crop. The cause of the disease is putrefactive bacteria carried by flies. Pollination with wood ash and watering with a solution of manganese sulfate also effectively helps in the fight against mucous bacteriosis;

Downy mildew

Kila

The disease manifests itself in the form of root growths of various sizes. The plant receives a sufficient amount of useful and nutrients through the root system. The cause of the disease is a fungus in the soil. A measure to combat clubroot is regular liming of acidic soils and an annual change of the place where cabbage is planted. It is also possible to carry out soil cultivation copper sulfate and special preparation of soil for seedlings;

White and gray rot

Diseases are typical for already cut heads of cabbage. To prevent the crop from rotting, it is necessary to warm the seeds in hot water before planting the seedlings. Dusting growing heads of cabbage with chalk also contributes to high-quality storage of the crop.

It is necessary to regularly inspect the plants in order to take timely measures to combat the disease.

Pest protection

Cabbage planted in open ground is susceptible to attacks by various insect pests. The most common are:

Cabbage whites

A butterfly with white wings and a black pattern on them lays eggs on the outside of cabbage leaves. The hatched caterpillars feed on the plant. The fight against whiteweed consists of spraying with a solution of 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. l liquid soap and 2 cups wood ash;

Cabbage fly

The insect lays eggs next to the stem or on the stem itself. The hatched larvae infect the root system and eat the leaves. Protection against the pest is spraying with a strained solution of 10 liters of water, 100 g of tobacco dust and 1 teaspoon of ground black pepper. After the procedure and every 3 days, loosen the soil to a depth of at least 3 cm. An effective measure The ready-made Iskra-M product is also used against flies. The solution is sprayed on the plants in accordance with the instructions;

Slugs and snails

They damage the leaves and root system of cabbage. The fight against them consists of sprinkling the soil with a mixture of 0.5 liters of wood ash, 1 tbsp. spoons of ground black pepper, 1 tbsp. spoons of salt, 1 tbsp. spoons of mustard powder. After applying the mixture to the ground, loosen the soil to a depth of 5 cm;

Cabbage scoop

Butterfly with wings gray, which leads an active life at night. The insect lays eggs on cabbage leaves. After hatching, the larvae grow into caterpillars that feed on cabbage. As a control measure, water with a solution of 10 liters of water, 1 tbsp. spoons of soap in liquid form, 2 tbsp. spoons of salt, 2 tbsp. spoons of mustard or mustard powder.

The ready-made product “Iskra-M” is effective against butterflies. Select a solution for caterpillars and spray with a solution of 5 liters of water and 5 ml of product. The solution consumption must be at least 1 liter per 10 square meters. m.

Aphid

Pests in the form small insects, which inhabit the outer side of cabbage leaves and feed on the sap of the plant. Spraying with a solution of 10 liters of water, 2 cups of wood ash and 1 tbsp is effective against aphids. spoons of liquid soap. The ready-made drug “Fufanon” is also effective against insects, which is diluted in 10 liters of water and 10 ml of the product, and the crop is sprayed in the afternoon. 10 liters of solution should be enough for 100 square meters. m.

Cabbage is a healthy and low maintenance crop. Regular watering and pest control will ensure you have a rich harvest in the fall. If you use all the recommendations for growing cabbage, then it will not be difficult for you to collect strong, juicy heads of cabbage in late September - early October.

Watering cabbage is the basis for cultivating all varieties of this vegetable crop. If the seedlings are successful and have taken root, then further success depends on the soil moisture regime. And on some types of soil the importance proper watering different types cabbage in open ground increases. The fact is that the poorly developed superficial root system of the popular vegetable crop is not capable of extracting moisture from the deep layers of the soil. Drying out of the top layer of soil in dry, hot weather is dangerous for developing heads of cabbage. Without figuring out how to properly water cabbage in open ground, a gardener risks being left without a harvest.

Conditions for watering

Waiting for the vegetable to signal with its drooping leaves the need to moisten the bed means exposing the plants to even minor stress. A moisture-loving crop should not experience moisture deficiency. But you can’t fill it either - this is fraught with rotting and disease.

Important! A gardener, putting off watering for a day or two, does not take into account that the area of ​​cabbage leaves is so large that it evaporates a huge amount of moisture. This process is called transpiration, which ensures the flow of sap from the roots through the entire plant, transporting moisture and nutrients. If the amount of moisture evaporated through the leaf blades is not replenished with liquid reaching the roots, the plant may die.

The type of soil, climate characteristics, current weather conditions are indispensable conditions that determine how often cabbage is watered in open ground beds.

Watering rules

The main period for the formation of heads of cabbage is the zenith of summer, when the weather is often hot and dry. The sun mercilessly dries out the soil. Moisture evaporates from hot soil in a matter of hours. But cabbage, which requires a lot of water, does not have time to satisfy the need. And if there has been no rain for a long time, but the temperature is low. How many times to water cabbage under such conditions even depends on the composition of the soil. The rules of hydration come down to several questions:

1. How often do you need to water cabbage in drought, heat, or cool weather?
2. How much moisture should be given?
3. What kind of water is best to water cabbage?
4. What time of day is best to do this?
5. Which watering method do you prefer?

But the answers to the questions must apply to the specific growing conditions of the crop.

Water requirements

A good half of gardeners will say that cabbage loves cold water. Published recommendations for crop care warn: watering cabbage cold water will inevitably lead to the risk of viral, fungal or bacterial diseases. A newcomer to cabbage beds will be confused by conflicting advice.

But there is no contradiction. Recommended temperature is 17-20°C. When the thermometer is above 30, the stream from the hose feels cool, even cold. But usually not lower than the recommended degree if irrigation water on the site is accumulated in containers. Coming from a well, a reservoir in storage tank, it warms up to a temperature comfortable for plants. There is no need to specially warm it up, as for cucumbers, for example, if the water was in the container for at least a day before entering the hose.

If the beds are equipped with sprinklers, the water may be colder: the finer the spray, the less the contrast between air and water temperatures. In the lines of a drip irrigation system, the liquid temperature rises to the minimum permitted level due to the low flow rate.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to pour water from the tap or from a centralized water supply onto the beds. Its temperature of 5-10 is critically low for cabbage. But the presence of chlorine is more important. If used for gardening tap water, it is poured into a storage tank for settling in advance so that all the chlorine evaporates. This requires at least a day. During this time, the temperature will even out to the required level.

Timing and frequency of watering

Watering cabbage in the heat

Even in the hottest and driest weather, the rule applies: one day - one watering. Every day once, but very abundantly moisten the soil. How hotter air and the less frequent the precipitation, the more insistently evening moisturizing is recommended. After 18-20 hours, when the sun is low, the rays fall obliquely enough not to leave burns on the leaves, because it is useful to pour not only at the root, but also to irrigate the plant itself. Only early in the morning or later in the evening the solar power is not enough to burn cabbage leaves through drops of water, as through lenses.

It is evening soil moisture that is more important during hot, dry periods, since a moisture-loving crop has a much better chance of meeting its needs. Overnight, the roots will easily absorb as much moisture as required. If you wet the soil in the morning, the scorching sun will not allow the cabbage to take all the necessary moisture from the soil. By evening the bed will be dry.

Important! Protecting and nourishing mulching of the soil between plants will help reduce intense evaporation and reduce the number and volume of watering. The entire space is covered with a layer (from 3-4 to 6-7 cm) of straw, cut weeds, and peat. If you use sawdust, then only rotted ones.

Periods with average daytime temperatures make it possible to moisten the beds less often, in the morning hours. The exact number of times you need to water the cabbage depends on various factors.

Depending on the ripening period

Early-ripening and late-ripening cabbage require a separate approach to moistening the soil:

1. Early varieties that ripen in the second half of summer require greater intensity of water treatments, especially in June and the first half of July.
2. Late varieties require maximum moisture in the second half of July-August.

Depends on the region: the further north the area is located, the later dates planting and, accordingly, ripening of the crop.

Depending on the type of cabbage

• White cabbage varieties, into the beds with which water is poured at the rate of 8 liters for the first month, 12 liters for the remaining period after 6-8 days.
• Colored - up to two times a week, in a volume of 10 liters;
• Red cabbage – bucket per unit area / 10-14 days.
• Broccoli – up to 3 times a week, up to 15 liters per unit. pl.
• Kohlrabi - after 2-3 days, 7-10 liters.
• Beijing - 10 liters per week.
• Brussels - 10-12 l in 6-8 days

Cabbages of different types require constantly slightly moist soil. Without increasing the frequency of watering, this is achieved by mulching the beds.

On different types of soil

The structure of the soil, which determines its moisture capacity, affects the frequency and volume of watering work: sand allows water to pass through without retaining it, and clay does not allow moisture to quickly go deeper. You can figure out which species predominate on the site in a simple way:

1. Knead a handful of wet soil in your hands and try to form a ball.
2. If the attempt fails initially - the earth crumbles - high sand content, the earth needs a lot of water. Or, by adding clay, you can increase the moisture capacity of the soil.
3. The ball turned out, but with light pressure it crumbles. These are loams. It will be possible to water less often.
4. The earth kneads like plasticine, a dense, strong ball is easy to flatten and give to any shape. Clay soil, very heavy, does not allow water to pass through. On a dried up clay soil a dense crust forms. If the site is located on a slope, the water drains without getting to the roots. It is difficult to grow anything on such soil; sand and peat are added to lighten the structure.

During different periods of the growing season

Early varieties, newly emerged or rooted seedlings need watering (depending on the weather) at least once every 2-3 days. Before the technical ripeness phase - 1-2 times in 10 days.

Late-ripening cabbage is watered about 10 times per season at medium temperatures and with periodic precipitation:

• 1 – day of disembarkation;
• 2 – after 6-7 days;
• 3 – 5 – formation of a socket;
• 6 – 8 – tying and growing a head of cabbage;
• 9-10 – until technical ripeness.

Watering methods

Cabbage is a crop that is not picky about the method of adding moisture, so any convenient, accessible method can be used – from a watering can to complex automatic systems.

Traditional watering of cabbage

It is optimal for gardeners who visit the site regularly, and the soil is predominantly fertile, moisture-absorbing, and loose. When watering the beds, either from a watering can or from a hose with a nozzle, the vegetable grower knows that the water immediately penetrates deep into the roots. It is not difficult to wet such soil to the required 30-40 cm.

Traditional methods of moistening are suitable for small-sized plantings - a bed that is easy to approach first from one side, and then water the cabbage from the other edge. Using a watering can or hose, make furrows between the hilled plants and irrigate generously over the leaves.

Regular watering from a watering can at a summer cottage is especially convenient when it is necessary to feed the crop: a measured amount of fertilizer is dissolved in the watering can and poured directly under the root. This feeding, combined with watering, eliminates accidental overdose, since at all stages the process is under the control of the summer resident.

Another reason why small plots of land are still watered from watering cans is the possibility of organic feeding. Infusions of herbs, onion or garlic peels, manure or droppings, no matter how you strain them, carry sediment, a suspension that can clog irrigation systems and drain expensive equipment out of service.

Sprinkling

On a standard 6 acres, a sprinkler that supplies a diffuse stream of water under upward pressure will water, along with cabbage, what does not need to be watered. The method is suitable for large areas planted with cabbage, therefore it is used by large farmers and agricultural complexes. Water, like drops of rain, settles on the leaves (therefore, sprinkle only early in the morning or evening), and the soil, maintaining its moisture.

It is advantageous to use the equipment on well-structured soils, since on heavy clay soils drops of water will not penetrate the hard surface crust - collecting in streams, they will flow downhill or, if the plantation is flat, they will stand in puddles, soaking the ground for a long time. Some of the water will have time to evaporate without getting into the ground.

A sprinkler system allows you to combine watering with fertilizing, but only highly soluble mineral compounds are used for fertilizer so that foreign particles do not clog the system.

Drip

An option for those who cannot travel outside the city to their dacha to regularly moisten the beds. The simple system covers all plantings, supplies water to each plant, evenly saturating the soil with moisture.

Expensive automatic systems, configured once, maintain cabbage beds without the participation of the owner of the garden. Simple, but no less effective ones are assembled from ready-made kits or selected hoses, pipes, adapters and other components.
Feeding cabbage served drip irrigation, is carried out similarly to sprinkling. (No ratings yet)

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8 rules for choosing seeds!
Choose the best cabbage variety

Choosing cabbage seeds is not so difficult if you know the basic criteria for choosing it. The most common seed selection criteria include:

Growing region.

Cabbage varieties are bred specifically for cultivation in certain regions. The bag of seeds always indicates where this cabbage variety can be grown. If the growing region is not indicated, then this can be understood from the sign, which indicates: when to sow, plant seedlings and after how many days to harvest. The longer it takes to grow cabbage, the warmer the region needed to grow it.

Soil type.

Listen to the radio broadcast:

Chinese and Beijing cabbage. (Mikhail VOROBYEV)

Various varieties of cabbage intended for growing on different types soil. Therefore, it is very important to find out on what type of soil the cabbage variety you choose gives better harvests. Some varieties grow better on black soil, and some on gray soils.

Terms of ripening.

There are three groups of cabbage ripening: early (ripening period 50-120 days), middle (ripening period 90-170 days) and late (ripening period 160-270 days). When choosing seeds, taking this indicator into account, you need to select seeds according to the required types of maturation, and not all of the same type. This is explained by the fact that for your own needs you need early, middle and late cabbage.

Purpose of grown cabbage.

You need to decide for what purpose you are growing cabbage: for salads, for pickling or for fresh storage. When purchasing seeds, this information must be indicated on the packaging or on the label if the seeds are not packaged.

Resistance to diseases and pests.

Different varieties have different characteristics, in particular there are varieties that are resistant to diseases and pests, and there are varieties that are more productive but less resistant. Therefore, depending on how you plan to care for your cabbage in the future, you need to choose varieties with the appropriate characteristics.

Cabbage resistance to cracking.

It is advisable to choose cabbage varieties that are resistant to cracking, so that later there will be no additional problems with growing this type of vegetable.

Locally selected cabbage varieties.

It is advisable to choose cabbage varieties that are bred in the same region where you live. Such varieties are most adapted to the conditions of your natural and climatic zone. Although we should not forget about the varieties of foreign selection, which are also characterized by good yield and sustainability indicators.

Certificate of quality.

Once you have decided on the variety, before purchasing you need to ask the seller for a quality certificate. This will allow you to get a real variety of cabbage, and not a fake. If you have been deceived, you can receive compensation at licensed points of sale of seeds.

The choice of cabbage seeds is very important for growing high-quality seedlings. Therefore, most gardeners pay great attention to this matter, since the quality of the future harvest depends on it. When choosing, you should remember that a big key to success is growing several varieties of cabbage. The greater the variety, the greater the likelihood of getting a good harvest from at least several varieties. Experienced gardeners, who have a list of varieties they trust, still buy new varieties. This allows you to expand your capabilities in growing a high-quality cabbage crop.

How to grow cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

Stages of growing cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

Obtaining high-quality seedlings in a greenhouse has its own characteristics that need to be taken into account, taking into account the main stages of growing these plants:

Careful selection of cabbage varieties and hybrids

Not every variety or hybrid can produce good seedlings in a greenhouse, so you need to choose only those varieties that are specially bred for growing in such places. You need to select:

• high-quality seeds (for growing seedlings in a greenhouse, varieties are better suited rather than hybrids);
• seeds of early, middle and late varieties .

Preparing soil in a greenhouse

For growing cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse, ordinary fertile soil is quite suitable, but it is better to mix it with peat and ash in the calculation:

• 4 parts fertile soil;
• 1 part peat;
• 1 kilogram of wood ash, for the entire area allocated for a greenhouse.

Choosing the optimal timing for sowing cabbage seeds

For cabbage with different ripening periods, you need different terms sowing seeds:

• seeds of early varieties can be sown from the end of March to mid-April;
• seeds of medium varieties of cabbage can be sown from the beginning of April until the end of the month;
• seeds of late varieties of cabbage can be sown from early April to early May.

Sowing cabbage seeds

Cabbage seeds must be dry before sowing in a greenhouse. Cabbage seeds should be sown in the following sequence:

1. First you need to make the required number of lines, the distance between which should be from 15 to 20 centimeters, and the depth should not be more than 3-5 centimeters.
2. After this, the lines must be watered abundantly.
3. High-quality seeds should be sown sparingly (there should be 3-5 per 1 centimeter square).
4. After sowing, the rows need to be sprinkled with soil, only so that the seeds are immersed to a depth of no more than 2 centimeters and no less than 1 centimeter.
5. Each line with a new variety must be marked with a flank with the appropriate inscription.

Caring for cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse

After germination, young seedlings need careful care:

1. The greenhouse must be tightly insulated to ensure optimal temperature both during the day (16-20) and at night (10-12).
2. Seedlings need to be watered in a timely manner so that the soil does not dry out.
3. When the first true leaves appear (earlier if necessary), you need to treat the cabbage seedlings with an insecticide against cruciferous flea beetles.
4. When the seedlings have 4 true leaves, you need to add a 3-5 centimeter layer of soil, sand, peat or fine sawdust to the greenhouse. This is done so that the seedlings form an even stem.
5. If the seedlings in the greenhouse are too dense, they need to be thinned out. To do this, poorly developed seedlings are pulled out or cut off at the root. After thinning, the seedlings need to be watered abundantly.
6. If necessary, you can spray the seedlings after 1-2 weeks with a solution of biofertilizers. This way the seedlings will develop better and faster.

Hardening off cabbage seedlings

Hardening is vital for cabbage seedlings grown in a greenhouse. It is carried out in 3 stages:

1. The first stage begins when the daily temperature is above 15 degrees. Then, on sunny days, the seedlings should be opened first for 15 minutes, and then every week the time should be increased by 10-15 minutes, depending on the weather.
2. The second stage begins when, even at night, the temperature does not drop below 8 degrees. Then you need to leave a small window in the greenhouse all day and night for constant air ventilation. In addition, the seedlings need to be opened completely for 1-2 hours.
3. The third stage begins 1-2 weeks before planting seedlings in open ground. Then The seedlings should be completely open most of the day.

Planting cabbage seedlings in open ground

Growing seedlings in a greenhouse ends with planting them in open ground. This must be done following the rules:

1. Pull out seedlings only when the rows are watered abundantly.
2. It is advisable to transplant cabbage seedlings on a cloudy day or in the second half of the day, when the sun is already close to sunset.
3. For better survival, it is advisable to treat the roots of seedlings with growth stimulants.
4. The holes need to be watered generously.
5. It is advisable to mulch the soil of the seedlings so that the moisture does not evaporate quickly.

As some experience of gardeners shows, it is easier to get high-quality white cabbage seedlings in a greenhouse, even with minimal care and costs. N At the same time, in no case should we forget about pests such as cruciferous flea beetles. It is imperative to protect the seedlings from them in a timely manner so that it is not too late, otherwise these pests can destroy young seedlings in a few days. All other procedures for growing cabbage seedlings are similar to growing any other seedlings.

How to grow cabbage seedlings at home

The sequence of growing cabbage seedlings at home

Growing seedlings on a balcony or in an apartment is not difficult, the main thing is to follow the sequence of all procedures:

Seed selection and preparation

The first stage is one in which it is decided:

• appearance of the future harvest;
• varieties or hybrids;
• ripening time;
• quantity;
• level of seed quality and preparation for sowing.

Before sowing, the seeds must be prepared if the producers have not done so. They need to be sorted out, selecting large and intact seeds. It is also advisable to disinfect and soak in a solution of biostimulants, which are available in large quantities on the market.

Rice. Methods for growing cabbage seedlings

Determining the timing of sowing seeds

After sowing cabbage seeds shoots may appear in 5-7 days to her. Moreover, for cabbage various terms ripening, there are different periods from the beginning of germination to planting in open ground:

• early varieties - 42-52 days;
• medium varieties - 32-42 days;
• late varieties - 45-52 days.

Cabbage seeds of different sowing dates should be sown, taking into account the time when you are going to plant cabbage seedlings in open ground (from the end of March to May).

Preparation of soil mixtures

To grow seedlings in boxes or other containers, you need to buy ready-made earthen mixtures or prepare your own:

• turf soil, peat and sand in equal quantities of all components;
• vermicompost, coconut fiber in a ratio of 2:1;
• ordinary fertile soil with the addition of vermicompost or peat;
• peat tablets;

Preparing containers

It is important that the container in which cabbage seedlings will be grown is wide, but not deep (height no more than 10 centimeters). In addition, the container must be prepared accordingly:

• At the bottom of all containers there must be the required number of drainage holes ( per area of ​​20 square centimeters, at least 3 holes);
• earthen mixtures should be poured only to fill half the containers.

Sowing cabbage seeds

The process of sowing seeds is important and here you need to do everything correctly:

1. Before planting, the soil should be watered with a pink (weak) solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection.
2. For sowing, shallow grooves are made (0.7-1.7 cm), the distance between them is at least 3 centimeters.
3. The grooves should be watered generously with boiled water at normal temperature.
4. Seeds are sown at a distance of 1.7-2.5 centimeters from each other. 1-3 seeds are sown in small containers (cups).
5. The grooves are covered with a thin layer of earth and lightly compacted with a finger.
6. After this, all containers need to be covered with cellophane and wait for the shoots to appear.
7. The first shoots should appear in 5-7 days, then the cellophane is removed. For cabbage seedlings, it is desirable that the temperature be in the range of 15 to 20 degrees so that the plants do not quickly stretch.

Prevention of pests and diseases

In addition to regular care (watering, feeding seedlings), it is necessary to carry out preventive measures to prevent the appearance of diseases and fleas:

• soil disinfection when sowing seeds;
• watering only between rows (special grooves are made) and at the side walls in small containers;
• treating seedlings with an insecticide against cruciferous flea beetles (for cabbage this procedure is very important);
• periodic loosening of the top layer of soil in containers;
• feeding seedlings once every two weeks with biofertilizers (preferably every week, but fertilizers must be diluted in the proportion with water specified by the manufacturer and sprayed on the leaves).

In principle, such preventive measures will prevent the occurrence of blackleg disease and pests. If the seedlings are sick, then the damaged plants need to be pulled out, a thin layer of ash should be poured into the container and the intensity of watering should be reduced.

Picking

This procedure is important for growing high-quality seedlings, but it is not mandatory. Seedlings of average quality can be obtained without picking. Picking cabbage seedlings is performed in the following sequence:

1. When 2-3 true leaves appear, the seedlings need to stop watering for 2-3 days.
2. Next, the seedlings are transplanted into large containers. In this case, you need to remove part of the root of the seedlings (one third of its length). Thus, the root system will develop better, which will increase the feeding area of ​​the seedling, and this in turn will lead to intensive growth.
3. After picking, seedlings need to be well watered and fed and kept at a temperature of 18-20 degrees for 2-3 days.
4. After this, you need to ensure the optimal temperature regime: during the day - 15-19 degrees, at night - 10-13 degrees. At this time, the seedlings can already be taken out glass balcony or in a greenhouse, where the temperature day and night will be optimal for cabbage growth.

Hardening

This process is one of the most important and begins as soon as the opportunity arises. Typically, the cabbage hardening process takes place in 3 stages:

1. When the air temperature per day is more than 15 degrees. At this time, windows are opened for seedlings or they are taken out to sunny places for 15-20 minutes.
2. When the night temperature does not drop below 9 degrees. At this time, you can leave the seedlings overnight with an open window or on an unglazed balcony.
3. 1 week before planting, seedlings in containers should be taken to the area where they will be planted.

Planting seedlings on a prepared plot

Cabbage seedlings take root very well if they have gone through all the stages of hardening, but when planting them you need to follow some rules:

1. It is advisable to plant seedlings in the afternoon;
2. It is better to plant seedlings together with a ball of earth; if this is not possible, then the roots need to be soaked in special nutrient solutions containing growth stimulants.
3. If the weather is hot, then it is advisable to create artificial shade for cabbage seedlings for the first 1-2 days.

Any gardener can handle growing cabbage seedlings at home. Growing seedlings will be successful if all components are well prepared. Therefore, this issue needs to be given considerable attention, since proper preparation, the growing process itself will be without any surprises or any troubles.

How to choose good ready-made seedlings on the market

So, choosing cabbage seedlings based on external characteristics...

Cabbage seedlings are selected only by external signs and this, in most cases, is quite enough. The main external signs of high-quality cabbage seedlings include:

1. Cabbage seedlings with lilac-green stems (legs) are of better quality than light green ones(a sign of excess nitrogen).
2. Cabbage seedlings with pure green color(a sign of excess nitrogen) in most cases has an unformed root system(takes root poorly) than with a purple hue, in which the root system is well developed.
3. Plants with round leaves will produce cabbage heads that are round, sometimes slightly flattened. Plants with oval-oblong leaves also produce oval, slightly oblong heads of cabbage.

How to determine which cabbage is early and which is late

It is easy to determine from the stems and leaves of the seedlings whether it is early cabbage or late cabbage. These signs include:

1. The thin and short stem (leg) of the seedling from the root collar to the first leaves and small leaves indicate that this is an early cabbage.
2. From such seedlings you can get small heads of cabbage with short stalks.
3. The thick and short stem (leg) of the seedling from the root collar to the first leaves and rather large leaves indicate that this is an early cabbage.
4. From such seedlings it will be possible to obtain large heads of cabbage with short stalks.

The thick and fairly long stem (leg) of the seedling from the root collar to the first leaves and large leaves indicate that this is a late cabbage.

From such seedlings you can get large heads of cabbage with long stalks. In this case, the head of cabbage will be loose and not compact.

1. It is better to pack purchased seedlings in a damp cloth and strong paper. If you bought seedlings in a plastic bag, then it is better to repack them immediately, that is, wrap them with a damp cloth and wrap them with durable paper on top.
2. There is no need to buy seedlings that are firmly tied into separate bunches of 10 pieces. In this way, the seller can hide the poor root system and fragility of the seedlings.
3. The seedlings do not need to be pressed tightly together, that is, the damp cloth should not be pulled too tightly around the bunch of seedlings.
4. Under no circumstances should purchased cabbage seedlings be placed in water, as this greatly affects the root system.

Choosing cabbage seedlings is not as simple as it might seem at first glance. With a large variety planting material on the market and unscrupulous sellers, you can often buy a “pig in a poke.” Therefore, you need to buy seedlings from trusted sellers, or better yet, from friends, neighbors or relatives. This will allow you to be more or less confident in the future harvest. In most cases, it is still possible to determine the quality of the seedlings, but this is impossible with the variety, so this parameter is based purely on trust in the seller.

In most cases, resistant cabbage varieties are grown that are easy to care for and grow quickly. Therefore, there is no need to buy seemingly varietal, but expensive seedlings, which may turn out to be ordinary.

Cabbage without seedlings Somewhere at the end of April, when the snow melts, I dig holes, then put a little manure in them and throw cabbage seeds in there, three or four in one hole, and water them. Then I take five-liter bottles, cut off the bottom and place them on the holes so that all the seeds are inside. Then you can water outside without removing the bottles. After three to four days the cabbage sprouts. When it grows a little, I leave one root under each bottle, throw out the rest - the weak ones, and transplant the good ones into other holes and also put the bottles. AND when the seedlings are already big

, I remove the bottles completely.

I plant twenty roots in total, and I’m with cabbage all summer and autumn. At the end of June - beginning of July it is already possible to cut. After a head of cabbage is cut, many more small heads of cabbage are formed, and they also grow back later.

Planting cabbage seedlings in the ground

Everyone knows that cabbage cannot be grown for more than 3 years in the same place, since cabbage is affected by many pests and diseases. Their pathogens will accumulate in the area where cabbage is grown. Therefore, the caste can be grown in the same place for no more than 3 years, after which the site must rest for at least 4 years. The best crops Precursors for growing cabbage are potatoes, tomatoes, pumpkin crops, legumes, onions, and beets. Cabbage seedlings should not be planted after other cruciferous crops: radishes, radishes, nightshade, turnips, turnips. Without proper planting of cabbage seedlings, there may be unwanted losses, which can be avoided if you plan all your actions well.

Selecting and preparing beds for planting cabbage seedlings

The bed where cabbage will be grown is of great importance for obtaining a high-quality harvest. Therefore, gardeners have been preparing the garden bed since the fall:

Planting cabbage seedlings

In the spring, when the night temperature returns to normal (at least 8 degrees Celsius), cabbage seedlings begin to be planted in a previously prepared bed:

From the time the cabbage seedlings are planted, the gardener still needs to do a lot of work to get a good harvest. Despite this, without proper and timely planting of cabbage seedlings, it may not take root in the new place at all. Also, seedlings can be planted very densely or sparsely, which will lead to shading of plants or ineffective waste land plot. Planting cabbage seedlings is an important transitional stage in growing this crop, so it is very important to do everything correctly and on time.

This is the only way to get a decent cabbage harvest, which will be equivalent to the labor expended.

SECRETS OF HEALTHY CABBAGE

(these tips are from the Internet, the original source is unknown)

Recipe: what to put in the holes before seedlings It is recommended to fill the holes humus and add 1 tablespoon eggshells , 1 tablespoon of ash and 1 teaspoon of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of mustard powder. This is necessary in order to to prevent the infestation of larvae that harm the roots . Mix everything well and pour hot water

with potassium permanganate. When the holes have cooled, plant the pre-watered seedlings. Mulch with humus, water every day for 3-4 days in a row, and then water after 3-4 days. If there is a threat cover with five-liter water bottles, cutting off the bottom. After 2 weeks, water with nitrogen fertilizer: 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water - 0.3 liters per plant. After another 2 weeks, water with superphosphate: soak 2 tablespoons in hot water for a day, stirring occasionally so that the mixture does not thicken, then mix with 10 liters of water and water 1 liter per plant. Water with mullein every 2 weeks.

To have a good ovary of the heads

Also, pour boron and molybdenum once so that the heads are well set, and sprinkle tobacco dust or ash near the roots.

From caterpillars

Sprinkle with infusion of onion and garlic peels, hang tomato shoots. Spray with mustard solution: 2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water + 1 teaspoon of black or red hot pepper + 1 tablespoon of liquid soap.

From whitefish

drive in pegs, then nail yogurt cups onto them and stick emerald-colored self-adhesive paper on them.

HOW TO GET RID OF CATERPILLARS ON CABBAGE WITHOUT CHEMICALS.

(this advice is also from the Internet. But according to reviews, it works and sometimes it doesn’t. , so something like that)

Take a bucket (it’s better not to take a galvanized one), pour hot (almost boiling water) water into it, add half a liter of ash, stir, cover with a lid and leave to steep for a day.

The next day, directly into this content, grate half a piece of laundry soap (you can use soap). Stir and leave again for a day.

Now, after mixing well, you can use this infusion against caterpillars. Take a ladle and carefully pour this solution into the middle of the cabbage plant. It burns out the caterpillars - the next day they will no longer be there, but the cabbage will remain healthy.

You can do this several times a season when caterpillars appear.

Warning: a recipe that doesn't work

VINEGAR FOR COMBAT PESTS OF CABBAGE

(this advice is from the Internet and he does not work!!! )

Spray the cabbage with 70% table vinegar: one spoon per 10 liters. water.

We immediately stirred the vinegar and processed the cabbage. The same solution was sprayed on radishes, horseradish, radishes, sorrel, rutabaga, and turnips.