What to combine peonies with. Examples of compatibility of some garden crops

If 20 years ago someone had predicted that my collection of peonies would approach 100 varieties, and there was no plan in my mind to stop at this magic number, I would never have believed it! Then, in the 90s, my garden, like many gardens in the neighborhood, was one continuous vegetable garden, more than half of the harvest from which was distributed to relatives, friends and neighbors. If you remember well, then relatively small area A dozen more currant bushes and 8-9 already old apple trees, inherited from the previous owners, grew. Now only three tall apple trees with the most delicious fruits remain in the garden, but only brave representatives of the Ministry of Emergency Situations can fully harvest them.

Of course, there was also a front garden with flowers. Mostly these were plants given by kind neighbors: phlox, aconite and nameless pink, white and crimson peonies. My idea of ​​flowers would have been limited to this assortment for a long time, if not for chance.

About five years after the start of my gardening activities, around the beginning of June, while walking around VDNKh, I accidentally wandered into the “Floriculture” pavilion. There, in the central part, on the floor and on the marble parapet surrounding a small fountain, in white tall vases flowers of unearthly beauty were displayed in huge quantities. I looked at them enthusiastically and for a long time could not believe my eyes. It turned out that all this splendor is peonies. My love for them struck me instantly! A quote from the famous work of M. Bulgakov is very suitable to describe my feelings: “This is how lightning strikes, this is how a Finnish knife strikes.”

That same fall, “Red Grace”, “Neon” and “Pearl Placer” appeared in my garden. It was they who laid the foundation for my collection of peonies and my serious passion for ornamental gardening. These varieties are alive and loved to this day, just like those nameless beauties left in memory of good hands who gave them to me.

In reality, it turned out that the largest collection in my garden is herbaceous peonies. They required proper placement - so that everything could be created for them. the necessary conditions For successful growth, demonstrating the individual beauty and characteristics of the variety, and after the end of the flowering period, do not remain with the field until the end of summer green leaves, even if they are very beautiful.

To begin with, I divided peonies by type and flowering time. All super-early (May 20-25) species peonies and Ito hybrids were planted in separate compositions (more on this below), since they are distinguished from milky-flowered and interspecific hybrids not only by the shape of the flowers and habit, but also by their completely different foliage .

Interspecific hybrids were combined into a separate group early date flowering (June 5-10), most of which have flowers of very bright, unusual shades, often changing color as they bloom.

The rest of the sunny space of the garden was divided between collections of milky-flowered peonies of medium flowering time with a simple or Japanese flower shape and densely double, very lush late varieties peonies. It is worth admitting that this “division of property” did not occur immediately, but over several years, as the collection grew.

I do not accept the creation of continuously blooming compositions. I like it when spots of color in the garden, like fireflies, flash in different corners of it, giving rise to new impressions. Imagine the beginning of June in my garden, when most varieties of peonies, evergreen rhododendrons and deciduous azaleas begin to bloom at the same time. This, without false modesty, dazzling fireworks of colors lasts about three weeks. Therefore, my desire to plunge into “green silence” for at least a week seems quite natural. It's like removing the aftertaste before tasting a new brand of wine.

Taking into account our interests with peonies, I chose phloxes as their main partners, paniculate hydrangeas and conifers with a compact growth type, since they not only support the decorative nature of plantings with peonies in the second half of summer, but are themselves the subject of my tireless collecting. Let me use the example of the longest composition in my garden to tell you how I arrange my treasures.

All the plants in this mixborder are arranged in the form of a kind of amphitheater, the last row of which is hedge along a two-meter wooden fence at the border of the site. Moreover, the gaps between the picket fence during the construction of the fence are left for a specific purpose: air circulates better throughout the area - this makes it possible to plant plants close to the fence, which is very important for a small garden.

I planted it as a hedge varietal lilacs, a couple of bushes of viburnum “Buldonezh”, at the end of the mixborder were “historical” 6-meter trees: rowan and chestnut, donated by a family friend (it was inconvenient to refuse, although in a small garden the chestnut’s place is behind the fence). This entire deciduous group is diluted with thujas “Spiralis”, “Smaragd”, “Yellow Ribbon” and trellises attached to the fence with fast-growing, or rather, “fast-climbing” clematis from the viticella group. The border with the lawn was designed in the form of “waning” waves. The widest wave, about 4 m from the fence, occurred in an area with chestnut and mountain ash. It’s easy to guess that the middle row was occupied by a collection of paniculate hydrangeas and phlox, and the elite first, sunniest row was occupied by peonies.

Every driver, even a notorious racer, knows that the main rule on the road is maintaining a distance. For successful growth, each plant needs a certain area of ​​nutrition and enough light to withstand competition with its neighbors. In such a dense planting as this mixborder, I chose the checkerboard placement method.

Lilacs, viburnums, chestnuts and rowan have shallow, very dense and aggressive root systems. Therefore, I tried to remove the paniculate hydrangeas planted next to the maximum distance of 2 m from chestnut and mountain ash and 0.8-1 m from viburnums and lilacs. In fact, this is not enough, so on the edge landing pit hydrangeas, limiters were driven to a depth of about 0.4 m on the side of the “aggressors”. As a barrier, I used pieces of slate, old shovel blades, halves of tin paint buckets, and scraps of metal tiles. Phloxes are planted in groups with a distance of 0.6-0.8 m from hydrangeas, and the same distance separates peonies from phloxes and peonies from each other. To remain always beautiful and healthy with such tough competition, our trio will need more watering and nutrition, so during the summer I constantly add mulch (compost, grass clippings, weeded weeds) and increase the rate of complex seasonal fertilizers applied by ¼. I add dolomite flour and ash only for peonies!

Peonies in the 1st year after planting have a slightly frail habit and only at the age of 4-5 years they reach the bush size characteristic of each variety. At first, a border of babies looks rather modest, so I delicately plant low summer and perennial crops with a compact root system, which can later be easily thinned out or removed altogether. It is very important to remember that the soil within a radius of about 0.4 m from the peony should always be clean or, even better, mulched. Earthworms and peonies just love the mulch! I use various small-bulbous plants (crocuses, muscari, checkerboard grouse) and daffodils as filler for free “chessboard cells” - they do not require frequent digging and in the spring they complement the cheerful shoots of peonies very well.

I plant along the edge of the flower bed remontant strawberries, I sow colorful salads and arugula. In addition, the lemon balm, oregano and navel growing in my garden love to sow spontaneously, thereby temporarily filling the empty spaces in the garden. In the widest part of the “wave” of the mixborder, to soften the transition and emphasize the border of the flower bed, I planted low-growing junipers and a family of dwarf irises at a distance of about 0.8 m from the peonies.

Of course, there were experiments of planting peonies with tall roses, but the latter turned out to be very unstable in the conditions of my garden, as they showed the ability to winter well only when covered in a large group. A separate rose garden was created for them.

Ito hybrids have a completely unique, characteristic appearance, which, due to their origin, is in many ways reminiscent of tree peonies. The bushes of Ito hybrids are wide, with beautiful foliage that lasts until late autumn. In my garden they grow best in raised sunny beds combined with coniferous plants or in separate groups on the lawn, where they are spacious and at ease. When planting with conifers, I maintain a distance of 0.8-1 m, and if the density of the plants does not allow maintaining such a distance, I be sure to dig in a limiter, otherwise the roots of even the most compact thujas, junipers and pines will easily penetrate into the “tasty” hole of peonies and entwine them roots - I was convinced of this from my own sad experience.

Also, in a group with conifers and hydrangeas, all natural types of peonies look very natural and elegant. They are the very first to bloom, but for a very short time, although this fact is fully compensated by the interesting texture and shape of the leaves: from deeply dissected bright green (P. tenuifolia, P. anomala) to round leathery ones with a bluish bloom (P. mollis, P. kavachensis ).

An experienced gardener, and even more so a collector, having read this part of the article and slyly squinting, will ask with a grin: “And how, my dear, did you manage to squeeze more than a hundred varieties into flower beds in a small area?” The question is fair and requires an honest answer. It’s simple - having reduced the garden and strawberry plantation by half and removed all the greenhouses (now relatives, friends and neighbors buy vegetables at the market), I allocated a large square plot and several wide ridges for a significant part of the peony collection, limiting them to currant bushes and single-line rows with strawberries Peonies are planted in even rows with an interval of 0.7-0.8 m between each other and 1 m between rows. When preparing a peony bed, I do not dig separate holes, but dig trenches at once, which I fill to the full length required quantity organics and mineral fertilizers.

It must be said that many peony collectors recognize only this method of placing the collection. The advantages are obvious: it is convenient to observe, keep records and records, use the same fertilizer for one type of plant and preventive treatment from diseases. The entire territory of the peony and vegetable garden part of the garden is strictly divided; there is not a single neglected or idle corner. Due to proximity groundwater all ridges with peonies are raised 15-20 cm from the level of the paths. The question is, where can I get so much soil and compost? For the last three years I have been conducting the following experiment: on the site of the future peony garden I am making a classic “warm bed”. At the beginning of the summer of the first year, a large, wide trench is dug using two spade bayonets (not all at once, but along half of the ridge). Taken out fertile land and the turf is folded to the side. Until autumn, the trench is filled with any plant debris, the layers are laid with turf and cow or chicken manure (I buy it once every three years and use it very sparingly). As soon as the pile reaches a height of 20-25 cm, I fill it with a 10-15 cm layer of excavated soil on top, and strengthen the edges of the warm bed with formwork from boards. In the second year, it becomes an excellent place for sowing cucumbers or zucchini. In the fall, when the harvest is harvested and the bed is cleared of withered tops, I scatter it on its surface. dolomite flour(0.5 cups per 1 sq.m.), ash and sand and dig it up with ½ bayonet of a shovel, since there is no point in digging deeper - the inside of the ridge is already loose and “tasty”. Then I pour a layer of sand (2-3 cm) onto the marked rows for planting peonies and lay the rhizomes on it, placing them horizontally. I usually use small divisions for planting, which lie evenly on the surface of the ridge. If I come across larger sections with roots sticking out in different directions, then I partially bury them in sand cushion. I install beacons and sprinkle 4-5 cm of good garden soil on top of the roots, taken from the garden bed, which will also be prepared for planting cucumbers next year. This kind of rotation in the garden allows me to avoid building large, space-consuming compost bins. Of course it is a lot of work, but the result, believe me, is worth it.

In the spring, after young peonies have sprung up (hurray!), I plant, for example, onions in wide row spacings, which not only does not interfere with them, but also slightly helps strengthen the peonies’ immunity, as it releases phytoncides. If I sow salad mustard or arugula, I simply cut off the finished greens, leaving the roots to rot in the ground. It is clear that to protect against diseases I only use biological drugs Alirin or Fitosporin.

In conclusion, I sincerely congratulate all gardeners and peonies connoisseurs on the upcoming New Year. I wish you and your gardens health and prosperity, patience and perseverance. Let your loved ones, looking at the Garden of Eden that you create for them with your own hands, appreciate your work and treat your wonderful hobby with understanding!

A beautiful bouquet of peonies can not only surprise a girl, but also convey your feelings for her. Today there are many color combinations that are not easy to choose for a particular holiday.

Therefore, before buying peonies, you should do a few simple recommendations on specialized sites. This will allow you to surprise your other party with a unique bouquet.

A few rules

Peonies are unique flowers, which cannot always be found in flower shops. They are distinguished by their original appearance and delicate color. At the same time, bouquets of peonies are not so easy to make. To obtain good composition You should follow these simple rules:

1. The best option would be only oval or round bouquet. Some florists also claim that peonies make good one-sided compositions.
2. When making bouquets of this flower, you can use buds of different colors. If desired, monochromatic plants can also be combined well.
3. It is not advisable to use unique and too beautiful vases, as they will distract attention.
4. It is advisable to place all the flowers in the bouquet in such a way that they do not overlap each other.

Making a bouquet

Peonies are different big flower, the originality of which should be emphasized by other plants. Florists say that several types of flowers go well with it:

• roses. In this case, you can use buds of different colors. When composing a bouquet, roses are placed in a circle, and peonies should occupy a central place. Please note that a composition of several rows of roses, which combine shades with peonies, looks beautiful;
• yellow daffodils. In such bouquets, peonies are also placed in the center. You can add to the company of daffodils blooming myrtle or apple tree branches that will frame the composition;
• reeds. This plant is placed in the center, and then around it are several buds of small peonies. Several such blanks are then used to form a beautiful large bouquet.

Peonies are unique flowers that can be combined with the most different colors. Combinations with daisies, small chrysanthemums, forget-me-nots, garden daisies and many others will look beautiful.

It is advisable to complement all bouquets with sprigs of greenery or fern. Properly selected flowers will allow you to create a unique composition that will bring joy to people.

Peonies are luxurious and self-sufficient flowers. Therefore, peonies have special requirements for their neighbors. Peonies themselves create a unique atmosphere, as if filling the garden with happiness. And the rich palette of colors is a good reason for using peonies in the landscape.

You can use all types of peonies: tree peonies, the bushes of which are about 2 m tall and park varieties peonies with bright flowers and low bushes.

Looks amazing in the garden bright flowers Bowl of Beauty with a huge number of stamens. Or compact bushes Peony variety Neon, densely covered double flowers, which look like fluttering butterflies on him.

Only, for cut peonies you need to use supports, because their stems cannot bear the weight of the caps. Or use peonies like this in the background, such as the Carol variety, which has showy flowers that look spectacular in bouquets.

Peonies can be used in rock gardens and for decorating personal and garden plots and large landscapes.

Peonies add volume and lushness to any flower bed, and after flowering they are an excellent background for other plants. The presence of peonies in mixed compositions can even be compared to the insertion of rubies into jewelry.

Peonies look best in a huge space, on a velvety green lawn, when neither the triumph of flowers nor carved greenery is hampered.

Pay attention to the color combination. It is better not to plant other red flowers with burgundy varieties of peonies if they bloom at the same time as the peonies.

Among the bright caps of peonies, the heads of blooming white decorative onions look good.

White or coral peonies will be combined with bright, dark red flowers, such as carnations or blood-red heuchera. The tenderness of pink peonies will be emphasized by the dark decorative greenery of thuja or barberry bushes. Peonies look great in a flower bed with hellebores.

A flower bed with white peonies is highlighted by irises that contrast in color, as well as sage, poppy, daylily, bells, and honeysuckle.

In a small area next to the peonies, you can plant foliage and ornamental plants with small flowers. But they should be either lower than the peonies or higher.

Single peony bushes planted in short rows against the backdrop of large trees look very impressive. For example, narrow-leaved varieties of peonies with rich or delicate flowers are planted next to juniper thickets.

You can place peonies in groups, separating them with contrasting foliage, or plant three bushes at the corners of an emerald lawn.

Plant low-growing trees around the perimeter perennials: mantle, primrose, daisies, bergenia. Use foxgloves or delphinium for verticals.

It is not recommended to combine several varieties in one place. It is better to divide them throughout the garden.

Do not plant other plants between peony bushes. Let this place be free for loosening. It would be desirable if there was a path leading to each peony bush.

It’s not difficult to create a garden that will delight you from spring until frost. As soon as the snow melts, the peony bushes will be decorated with small-bulbous plants: galanthus, reticulated irises, crocuses.

Later - daffodils and tulips. In summer, astilbe, lilies, pelargonium, godetia, zinnia, and petunias look against the background of green peony bushes. And in late autumn they will be replaced by phloxes, asters, and chrysanthemums.

The foliage of the tree peony at sunset in summer has a distinct purple hue and stands out well against the background of golden trees.

Remember that peonies love open spaces and a lot of space. Otherwise, experiment and create your own compositions in the garden.

At first glance, it seems that there is nothing simpler than creating a beautiful flower bed. It’s enough to buy flower seeds or flower bulbs, choose a color scheme, take into account the flowers’ requirements for humidity, light and soil quality - and that’s all? In reality, everything is a little more complicated. Neighbors should be selected carefully and taking into account their compatibility.

We have already written about the compatibility of vegetable crops, now let’s talk about how to properly plant flowers in a flowerbed so that everyone is comfortable. Often, over time, plants push their neighbors out of the territory, and sometimes this happens completely unexpectedly and inexplicably. Let's not learn from mistakes, but rather do everything right right away when planting flowers.

It happens that plants with similar comfort requirements simply do not grow nearby. It refers to tree peonies. They bad neighbors for perennials. Also, you should not plant peonies closer than 1.5 meters to shrubs and trees.

Roses plant away from cloves and mignonette. And peonies near a rose will depress it, so place them at a great distance from each other. Lilies of the valley will cause suffering to violets and peonies growing nearby. And dahlias have been proven to destroy almost all competitors. Please note - next to dahlias There are always even fewer weeds.

Deserves special attention there are numerousRanunculaceae family, which has more than 50 genera and 2000 species. A large number of buttercups in a flowerbed will suck moisture and all useful elements from the soil, depleting the soil and leaving neighbors starving. The roots of buttercups secrete substances that can poison the lives of all plants nearby. With buttercups nearby, even hardy clover will die. Ranunculaceae can especially suffer bulbous that overwinter in the ground. In the spring, they have virtually no chance of breaking through the powerful interweaving of buttercup roots.

If you still want to plant bulbous and ranunculus plants on the same club, protect them from each other. This can be done using tin or metal frames, and place them both above the ground and in the ground.

How to choose plants for a flower bed?

Let's start with those thatNot recommended plant nearby.

• Tulips and lilies are affected and damaged by the same diseases and pests. It is not advisable to plant them next to each other and replace each other. Places for their planting should be in different angles garden
• Peonies and violets will feel uncomfortable if lilies of the valley grow next to them.
• Carnation, rose, mignonette. You should not plant roses next to carnations and mignonette. In this case, the rose acts as an oppressor for mignonette and cloves.
• Violets and sweet pea. Peas will depress the violet and will not allow it to grow fully.

And this list of good neighbors. Growing nearby, these flowers will create good conditions development to neighbors and protect each other from pests and diseases.

• Marigolds, roses and gladioli. Marigolds are known to repel pests. They are also recommended to be planted in vegetable beds. Neighborhood with roses and gladioli will have a good effect on these plants.
• Nasturtium and peony are a good neighbor. Nasturtiums growing next to a peony will protect it from fungal diseases and nematodes.
• Roses, phlox, marigolds. Marigolds protect neighbors well from nematodes. Phlox and roses, for which this disease is typical, under the protection of marigolds, will get rid of the risk of damage by nematodes.
• Asters and petunias living in the same flower garden will never get fusarium.
• Phlox and asters. Phlox secrete substances that protect against fusarium, so they are excellent precursors for asters.
• Asters and nasturtiums - good neighbors, since nasturtiums prevent the appearance of fusarium in asters.
• Lilies, roses, clematis are good neighbors. Clematis and lilies will protect roses from pests and diseases and promote the growth of rose bushes.
• Lavender and roses. Plant lavender around your roses; it will protect your garden queens from aphids.

Friendship is worth paying attention to flowers and trees. There is an opinion that it is undesirable to plant anything else under fruit trees. Supposedly they will then get less food. This is not entirely correct. The bare soil under the trees dries out quickly; a layer of turf is needed. Why shouldn't he be beautiful?

• Under the apple tree, plant marigolds, early bulbous plants, impatiens, small daylilies or primroses - they will get along well and will not harm each other. On the contrary, these flowers will help keep the soil moist.
• For a pear, the proximity of bare strawberries or phlox will be pleasant.
• The plum will be delighted to have a medium-sized bulb next to it.
• Cherry will get along with primroses and primroses.
• Apricots will like low annuals or decorative lawns.

The main rule when combining flowers and trees- so that plants have shallow root system and did not compete with the trees, but helped them keep the soil moist.

By combining flowers in your flower beds according to the timing of flowering, range of colors, shape of leaves and sizes, you, like an artist, can create a flower bed of amazing beauty. By choosing flowers for a flower bed and taking into account the nuances of their arrangement, you will certainly achieve an amazing tandem of beauty and health of plants.

Peonies are very ancient inhabitants of gardens. And although every plant is unique, the peony is special. They are deservedly loved by designers, breeders and gardeners all over the world. In Asian countries, the flower is considered a talisman for good luck and prosperity, and healers use a tincture from it for a dozen diseases. The flowering time is June, then the flower becomes the real king of the garden. Peony is not only incredibly beautiful, but also completely unpretentious. Even a novice gardener can grow it.

It is impossible to resist the variety of forms, varieties and aromas of this wonderful plant. By the number of stems you can determine the age of the blooming miracle. The seven-year-old plant has more than forty stems. The leaves are large and complex. U different varieties they can be wide or narrow, and even needle-shaped. The diameter of the flowers also depends on species diversity, varies from 12 to 27 cm. First, the flowers bloom in the center of the bush, then the side buds. A complex rhizome has three types of roots: storage, suction and adventitious.

Application in landscape design

Due to its beauty and lushness of the bush, peony is planted near bodies of water. During flowering, reflected in the water, it turns the landscape into a painting by Flemish artists. An incredible variety of shades and perfection of shapes make peony stand out from others. flower crops. The bushes are planted quite closely to each other. Blooming flowers merge into one perfect picture. By using varieties that change color towards the end of flowering, you can add variety to your garden. This phenomenon does not allow the garden to acquire a bored look, and the reflection of flowers in the water fascinates and touches.

A peony at the entrance to a garden, house or near a gazebo creates a romantic mood. But one color, even the brightest, will not bring the same aesthetic pleasure as a skillfully selected tandem or ensemble. Welcoming guests in combination with contrasting color scheme(warm and cold) peony looks even more delicate and refined. You can use seasonal decorative blocks. Then the emphasis on flowering moves around the estate. The garden seems to live its own life.

And although the monochrome composition is always relevant, and big size color spot is actively used landscape designers, colorfulness also does not lose its position. Diversity color palette helps to plant several shades of peony together, then the flower garden does not turn into one bright spot, but performs the function of stretching the color. Then you can consider all its nuances and tones. This makes it possible to appreciate the depth and richness of color.

Because of its beauty and picturesqueness, the peony often outshines its neighbors and many gardeners are wary of placing them in. The solution in this case is a flower garden group. This option for designing a flower bed involves planting several (mostly 3-5) perennials, blooming one after another. It is important that the plants retain their decorative properties after flowering and do not spoil the presentability of the entire group. This, in its own way, is spectacular in that quantity when the peony can show itself in all its glory. It will look more memorable.

Low-growing, drought-resistant varieties look good in rock gardens. The thin-leaved peony and the Crimean peony beautifully frame and fit into the overall style of the Japanese stone flowerbed.

Decorate with a composition of peony and primroses (crocus, galanthus, iris reticulum, daffodils and others) garden paths. It is important to create continuity of flowering here. By skillfully selecting plants, all paths to the garden or house will beautifully frame and divide the area, decorating it with flowering from April to November. Liliaceae, godetia, a variety of petunias, and zinnia will help with this.

Giving preference tree peony you can contemplate the beautiful contrast against the background of golden and crimson leaves in autumn. dark leaves shimmer with a purple glow. Don't forget about the features herbaceous peony, after precipitation the bush disintegrates and may lose its decorative effect. For this purpose, gardeners install special metal constructions to support the perennial. These can be special shapes, in the form of a butterfly, or geometric shapes.

The narrow shape of the leaves, traditional for the garden in Russia, is used to decorate the rock garden. Harmony and naturalness, as if in the lap of nature, are emphasized by dwarf representatives of conifers (juniper, pine, thuja). This helps create an interesting, bright and rich look.

Combination with other plants

It is difficult to combine the yellow-flowered representative with other crops. This shade is not included in the generally accepted range; it is self-sufficient. Such varieties are planted. This is a great combination with a green lawn or plants. Peony is combined with delphinium, helenium, and perennial asters. Double varieties with their heavy stems support their neighbors.

Luxurious peonies harmonize perfectly with white decorative onions. Its heads are not buried in the bright splendor of the “king of the garden”, but act as a contrast and look quite touching. Blood red heuchera and carnation make wonderful company with white and coral peonies. Bushes and dark greenery gracefully shade and highlight the delicate pink buds.

Place accents and create an appropriate contrast with peony, poppy, honeysuckle, lilies, and bells. Tall and dwarf plants with small inflorescences are acceptable in compositions. Deciduous decorative plants are often planted next to the peony; they play the role of a kind of background. Juniper bushes and tall trees also become a background for bright and rich peony flowers.

When combining peonies in one composition, do not forget about the need for a decent distance between them, for the convenience of loosening the soil. What is so necessary for flowering perennials.

The “King of the Garden” is placed in groups of three bushes at the corners of the lawn, and its perimeter is planted with bergenia, daisies, mantle and other low-growing representatives of the flora. Foxglove and delphinium are used as accents to soften the transition.

Species and varietal diversity

In total, there are about 5 thousand varieties of peony. Conventionally, three categories can be distinguished. They are based on the origin, as a result of selection manipulations, of plant forms:

1. Peony officinalis:

• rubra of captivity,
• rosea captivity,
• lobata.

2. Peony milky-flowering:

• simple, not double (Chinese peony, a la mode, Nancy, Aritina Nosen Glory),
• semi-double (Miss America, cytheria),
• terry (raspreri sande, Monsieur Jules Elie, Henry Boxtos, ballerina, Gaudi, Illini bell),
• Japanese (karara, pearl scattering, Velta Atkison, Hot Chocolit, Barington Bell),
• anemoids (snow mountain, root glue, lastres, sable).

3. Interspecific hybrids

The “king of the garden” is planted or replanted in spring or autumn. The spring period is very short, you need to have time to carry out all the work before increased growth. This is why amateur gardeners do everything in the fall. The plant loves loamy soil, in which there is enough organic fertilizers. If there is a possibility of storm water and melt water entering, then drainage is vital. The depth of the hole is half a meter deep and the same width.

The plant is unpretentious, but for annual abundant flowering it needs good care. It happens that the peony does not bloom. There are several reasons for this. The main problem may be in the wrong place for planting and in the planting itself. The peony rhizome should be sufficiently buried in the ground. Such a flower can be identified even without flowering; it has a painful appearance. Complete pruning after flowering is strictly prohibited. This way the plant is deprived of developing buds. If the procedure is carried out correctly, two or three leaves remain and Bottom part peduncle. They are pruned at the root only in the fall. For the winter, the plant is well protected from the cold.

The danger to the plant is fungal diseases. Most often they appear due to a lack of minerals and weakening of the peony. This occurs from lack of care and improper early pruning. Regular watering and loosening the soil of young plants, as well as fertilizing older bushes, in most cases, prevents insect pests from affecting the peony.

Video - Growing and caring for peonies