We cut lilacs in the summer. Reproduction of varietal lilac

home

Installation

Caring for lilacs in the fall: pruning, fertilizing, preparing for winter, what to fertilize, propagation by cuttings

Lilac cuttings are one of the most common methods of propagating a bush. Nevertheless, It requires compliance with several rules at once:

First of all, you need to take into account that the rooting period of the cuttings is quite long - at least 5 weeks. Therefore, selection occurs at the end of flowering or immediately after it. Lignified and even semi-lignified cuttings are not suitable - they do not take root. Therefore, you only need to take green cuttings, especially from young branches. It is better to cut branches with 2-3 nodes. The best option- those layers that extend from the middle parts of the main branch. All leaves are removed from the bottom node. Then a cut is made at an acute angle. It should come as close as possible to the place where the leaves were cut. At the same time, you should not cut at the node itself - such cuttings do not take root. All other leaves should be cut exactly in half. The top node is completely cut off along with the leaves - a regular cut is made perpendicular to the cutting. Next, the cuttings should be immediately placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator and left overnight. Then the shoot is completely washed under running water and is planted in a semi-shaded place - either in a greenhouse or on regular soil, but in this case the cuttings should be covered with 5-liter cut bottles. For the planting hole, a mixture of sand and peat, taken in equal mass quantities, is selected. A hole is dug no more than 20 cm deep. A cutting is planted and filled with the mixture. A 5-centimeter layer of sand is poured over the top. The hole is treated with a solution of any fungicide and after a few hours it is thoroughly watered. Next, the entire cuttings are covered with polyethylene (or you can cover each shoot with a bottle). Subsequently, you need to ensure that the sand always remains saturated with moisture, and also spray the shoots with a weak solution of potassium permanganate every 7 days. It is also necessary to constantly ventilate the cuttings, and it can be opened completely after 6 weeks - then almost all shoots should form roots.

How lilacs reproduce (video)

NOTE

The cuttings can be left for the winter, but if they have taken root by the beginning of autumn, they should be transplanted to a separate bed for growing. Compost or humus is added to the soil. If the soil is acidic, it is better to add ash or dolomite flour at the rate of 200-300 g per 1 m2. You can replant to the main location in the spring.

Thus, lilacs need basic care precisely at the end of summer - beginning of autumn. If you make some effort this season, the bush will delight you with its fragrant, beautiful flowers all next summer.

How to propagate shrubs from cuttings

Watering

In order for as many cuttings as possible to take root, you need to water little by little often so that the soil is always moist, but do not overwater it! In this case, a greenhouse is ideal, especially for plants that are difficult to root. It can create high humidity, which helps roots form easier and faster. When the first shoots and leaves appear on the branches, this means they are successfully growing roots. Most likely, not all branches will please you good growth(some of it will dry out completely). During this period, watering is reduced, watering only to prevent the soil from drying out.

Summer cuttings

If you did not have time to prepare cuttings early in the spring or in the summer you saw some kind of interesting variety, you can try to root a few branches. To do this, you need to carefully tear off the leaves and flower clusters from them, cut the cuttings, immediately split the ends of the branches more strongly - “sweep” them and put them in water for a couple of days with the addition of “root”. Then we do everything as with ordinary cuttings (we constantly monitor the humidity!). In this case, it is even more difficult to achieve growth of cuttings, but it is possible. It all depends on your desire and perseverance.

In autumn, bushes grow from our cuttings. We select the best ones from them and transplant them to permanent place. We leave the weak and fragile ones for the second year for growing.

Video about propagating shrubs by cuttings

Lilac propagation by cuttings: step-by-step master class with photos

Lilac propagation by cuttings: step-by-step master class with photo

Ornamental lilac varieties are propagated by shoots, layering, grafting and cuttings. To plant a lilac, you need to have some skills, and it is convenient to propagate a bush that is already growing in the country using shoots and layering. If you want to bring a plant from another place, it is best to resort to cuttings. Using this method, you can root lilacs even from a bouquet. Provided that it was cut no later than one day ago.

In addition, keep in mind that lilac is a difficult plant to root. Therefore, for successful reproduction it is important to comply with certain Conditions:

Do not miss the appropriate time for harvesting cuttings.

Use suitable cuttings.

Maintain temperature and humidity conditions

Optimal temperature

Reproduction of varietal lilac

Not all methods transmit the genetic code equally. Therefore, a limited number of them is used for propagation of varietal bushes.

Can be propagated:

vaccination; root shoots; layering; green (not lignified) cuttings; in a merisystemic way.

Cannot be reproduced:

seeds.

Comparison of methods of propagation of varietal lilacs

For each it is possible to select positive points and negative.

Own-rooted lilac is healthier - it has high winter hardiness, large growth, and the shoots inherit the characteristics. A significant drawback is that the time of flowering occurs three or even four years later than that of the grafted plant.

Grafted syringa blooms earlier. You can form a standard tree from it. The technique is common in modern landscape design. Alas, it lives much shorter than its own root. Vaccination against wild plants is considered more stable. With proper care, shrubs with other rootstocks can also become long-lived.

Lilacs grown merisystemically are also self-rooted. It conveys the characteristics of the variety better, suffers less from viral and other diseases, and tolerates difficult climatic conditions more easily. A seedling obtained by the merisystemic method gives little growth in the first years. It blooms no earlier than the fifth year.

Methodology

Easiest to seat root shoots. Layering is a little more difficult and takes longer. The most popular method is green cuttings, which is not suitable for all varieties. The grafting process is difficult for the gardener and requires good skill and experience. A special tool must also be available. It is impossible to propagate lilacs merisystemically outside laboratory conditions.

Now, in more detail, how to propagate lilacs.

Grafting

Any variety can be propagated by grafting. Rootstocks for grafting include wild seedlings, privet, and Hungarian lilac.

The grafted plants have shoots in tree trunk circle and near the root collar it is not varietal, wild, so it is completely removed with pruners - “into a ring”.

For the scion, take annual branches of syringa. They are prepared in advance and stored until grafting in a damp, cool and dark place.

There are the following methods:

budding; copulation; grafting into a lateral incision; cleft grafting; for the bark.

Root growth

It is best to separate root shoots in the fall. The desired specimen is cut off from the main root with maximum preservation of its own fibrous root system. IN further landing and caring for the separated plant is carried out as for ordinary seedlings.

Layerings

To propagate varieties by layering, own-rooted mother bushes are mainly used. The process takes several years.

1-2 years. To prepare for winter, in the first and second years, shrubs intended for propagation by layering are pruned to the very root collar.

3rd year. By autumn, many young shoots will appear on the bush.

4 year In the spring, grown annual shoots are bent to the ground, secured with hooks driven into the ground and sprinkled with soil. Throughout the season, you need to ensure that the soil near the cuttings is sufficiently moist. in autumn fourth year rooted cuttings are separated from the branches of the mother bush.

Less commonly, grafted lilacs are transferred to their own roots by layering if the graft is not very high above the ground. The plant is planted obliquely. In spring, shoots located above the graft are attracted to the ground. They use special wire and pins. The plant is hilled up throughout the growing season and watered. In the fall, roots will appear above the constriction, and the cuttings can be cut off from the bush.

With this method you can get greatest number seedlings from a single bush in a short time.

Lilac propagation by cuttings in spring

This method can be used to propagate some varieties in one season. The process includes the following steps:

vegetative propagation

open ground

Let's look more specifically at the main points.

How to select shoots for cuttings and prepare for cutting

The older the mother bush, the worse rooting occurs. The plant should be no younger than 4-5 years, but no older than 10-15.

Large green shoots, also called fat shoots, practically do not take root. Vertical strong ones are also not very suitable. Best ability to the formation of roots in small green branches growing sideways.

To increase the rooting of cuttings, gardeners use various tricks. In particular, “etiolation” is used. 3 weeks before cuttings, young shoots are not very tightly wrapped from below under the internode with dark-colored insulating tape. Essentially, etiolation is the isolation of part of a branch from light. After some time, the areas of the bark under the insulation will become whitish, this is where the cut needs to be made, and after approximately 10 weeks, roots will develop in this place.

Pruning time is evening, or morning if the day promises to be cloudy. Then the branch will spend less moisture on its most difficult first day.

Rules for cutting green cuttings

Cuttings are carried out during the flowering period or immediately after it. Selected shoots are cut with a clean, sharp knife. The top of the shoot is cut off, two or three internodes are counted and the lower part is cut off. Important! The lower cut should be oblique and pass immediately under the third node, but without touching it.

On the shoots, all leaves are cut to half and packed in film in thin layers until planting. No need to put it in water.

Pre-planting treatment

The branches take root very difficult. Therefore, before planting, they must be treated with root formation stimulants (indolylbutyric acid, heteroauxin, zircon). The drugs are diluted with water or alcohol according to the instructions. If alcohol dilution was used, the shoots are dipped in the solution for 5 seconds and planted in the ground, if water dilution is used, they are kept for up to 18 hours, dipped to a depth of 1 cm.

Soil preparation

Most often they are rooted in sand or a mixture of sand and perlite. But to achieve highest percentage rooting, it is better to use the following composition: part coarse perlite, part high-moor peat, two parts low-lying peat.

A drainage layer of washed sand and expanded clay is 15 cm, then 20 cm of leaf humus or rotted manure, and on top from five to eight centimeters of rooting mixture.

Landing

The finished soil is compacted and watered. The cuttings are deepened by immersing the first internode completely into the ground. It is under this that the fibrous root system will develop. We leave a distance of 10 cm between the rows, and 5 cm between the shoots. Water again.

The temperature should not be very high. If it’s hot outside, the greenhouse is shaded and ventilated.

The most important condition for good survival is high humidity, ideal – 100%. To take root in industrial scale A special fogging machine is installed in greenhouses.

The first roots may appear no earlier than in a month and a half.

Remember to periodically remove fallen or spoiled leaves to prevent fungal infections.

We can talk about the percentage of rooting only in the fall. Then they can be planted for growing in a school bed. Do not forget to cover the resulting seedlings for the winter to prevent the still tender shoots from freezing. If in doubt, it is better to transplant rooted cuttings next spring, as usual, before the start of sap flow.

Merisystemic method

Modern science makes it possible to obtain plants by growing tissues in a laboratory - this is a “merisystem” method of propagation.
The technique consists of growing cells of a varietal shoot on a nutrient medium. Plants obtained by this vegetative method acquire all parental characteristics.

Lilac propagation by cuttings, layering and seeds

With the arrival of spring, another cycle begins in the development of plants, many of which bloom, filling the air with a wonderful aroma and pleasing the eye with a riot of colors. The month of May is the apogee in the extravaganza of spring: it is at this time that lilacs bloom, declaring that spring has fully come into its own, and prophesying with its flowering the imminent arrival of summer.

Parks, squares and other places of public recreation at this time are under the control of blooming lilac, because it is capable of transforming even the most dull landscape beyond recognition. This is why culture is highly valued among landscape design masters.

Every year the need for high-quality lilac planting material increases. Its wild varieties are quite decorative, but their splendor is not comparable to the charm of varietal lilac, color palette which is distinguished by its diversity.

Seed propagation of lilac

Varietal lilac reproduces mainly by vegetative means, of which the most widely used methods are layering and green cuttings. The grafting method is no less common. garden forms on common lilac or privet rootstocks (used less frequently). For this purpose, it is necessary to grow the rootstock from seeds.

Seed procurement begins at the end of August - beginning of September in order to have a reserve for stratification for one and a half to two months. Stratified seeds are sown to a depth of 2 cm, after which the crops are mulched with humus. Seed consumption rate per 1 linear. meter - 2 grams (this amount is enough to produce more than 200 seedlings).

After 2 years of cultivation, the seedlings are suitable for grafting by budding.

Growing lilacs from cuttings

Grafted lilac has an advantage in terms of adaptation to growing conditions, but also has a significant drawback - the need to regularly remove root shoots. From the point of view of labor costs for maintenance, growing your own root lilacs is more attractive, in addition, life cycle The lifespan of such plants is longer (up to 25 or more years).

Propagation of lilacs from layering is considered the most promising method, since it ensures the production of quality planting material in one year. Important condition– the mother plant must be rooted, that is, not grafted.

Grafted varietal lilac can also be “transferred to its own roots.” To do this, you need to plant the plant obliquely, tie the stem of the young shoot above the grafting site (you can use copper wire), and then hill the plant to a height of up to 30 cm. During the summer, the plants will need to be hilled several more times. By autumn, roots should form above the constriction site, after which the layering is cut off from mother plant. During the season, up to 100 seedlings can be obtained from one bush using this method.

Reproduction by horizontal layering is somewhat different from vertical (“Dahlem method”), but there is much in common between them, namely, the obligatory constriction at the base (!). The shoots are placed in prepared grooves and covered with soil. As vertical shoots grow, they are hilled several times. In autumn, up to 10 seedlings are obtained from each shoot.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

“Green cuttings” are considered the most labor-intensive method, since successful rooting requires a number of preparatory operations, as well as strict adherence to temperature and humidity conditions. In addition, rooted cuttings require mandatory growing before planting in a permanent place.

Propagation by green cuttings has advantages in terms of efficiency (reproduction rate), so this technique is mainly used in industrial cultivation lilac. If desired, every gardener can successfully master the technique of rooting green cuttings.

It is advisable to begin harvesting cuttings during the period of mass flowering of lilacs (at the beginning), when the bark begins to harden. The cutting is carried out in such a way that there are 2 buds per cutting (1 internode). The lower cut is half a centimeter away from the bud, the upper cut is 1 cm above the bud. Bottom sheet shortened by 1/3, and the top one is cut in half. Cuttings are planted to a depth of 1 cm.

Pre-planting treatment of lilac cuttings in solutions of growth regulators stimulates the development of the root system. For this purpose, indolylbutyric acid (50 - 100 mg/l) and heteroauxin (150 - 200 mg/l) are most often used. Exposure time – 12 – 16 hours; immersion depth – 1 cm.

Rooting at home can be done using micro-greenhouses (closed containers with a lid made of translucent material). Nutrient soil (10 cm) and coarse sand (3 cm) are placed in the container in layers.

The optimal temperature for rooting is 25 – 28 °C, relative humidity within 80 – 90%. To maintain moisture, lilac cuttings are sprayed daily with water from a spray bottle.

Root formation begins in a month, and in the fall the cuttings are transplanted into open ground for growing, taking care to ensure protection from freezing.

In the fall of next year, well-developed seedlings are obtained.

In our country, lilac is rightfully considered one of the most beloved ornamental shrubs. Today there are more than 30 varieties of it in the world and over 200 different varieties have been bred. This article will discuss methods of propagating lilacs, all possible nuances and features of each process.

Basic methods of reproduction

For the full development and growth of this shrub, as well as for long-term and lush flowering, a combination of several factors is necessary:

full lighting;
wind protection;
good drainage to prevent moisture stagnation.

If these conditions are met, the plant will grow quickly enough, which will allow the gardener to independently propagate his favorite varieties of lilac on his site.

Lilac propagates in the following ways:

Cuttings.
Growing from seeds.
Root growth.
Root cuttings.
Vaccination.

Each of the above methods has its own advantages and difficulties, and to achieve a successful result you must follow the requirements and rules.

Lilac cuttings

Growing a beautiful lilac from a twig is not a very difficult method and even an inexperienced amateur gardener can do it. There are two types of this method:

green cuttings;
woody shoots.

Propagation of lilacs by green cuttings

With this method planting material It is prepared either during flowering or immediately after, that is, lilac cuttings are carried out in the spring. Selected side shoots, branches from the central (main) branches.

Lilac cuttings must be cut from shoots on which 4–6 leaves have formed, and each cutting must be at least 15 cm long and have at least 3 pairs of buds. The lower cut is made obliquely, slightly below the last buds. For each prepared lilac branch you need to remove 2 lower leaves. All leaves must be cut in half as shown in the picture.

Next, all the tops of the cuttings are cut off; the cut should be straight. The lower end of the branch is treated with some kind of growth stimulant, for example, “Kornevin”. The cuttings should be kept for several hours in a solution prepared according to the instructions for the drug, or simply dipped in root former powder to save time.

After preparing the planting material, you need to organize a bed for rooting lilacs. To do this, a small depression is dug at the planting site and drainage (sand or expanded clay) is laid in a layer of about 12 cm. Humus is then placed and covered with earth, then the planting site must be thoroughly watered.

After this, the planting material is planted on the prepared bed, maintaining a distance between plants and rows of at least 10 cm. After planting, you need to set up a greenhouse - install a frame and stretch the film. The height of the frame should not be less than 50 cm. An example can be seen in the picture below.

The optimal conditions for rooting are considered to be a combination of temperature 20 - 25 degrees and humidity at 90 - 95%.

The greenhouse must be regularly ventilated, for which you need to slightly lift the edges of the film, avoiding sharp drop temperatures and cold drafts getting inside. After a month or a month and a half, after intensive root formation begins, the greenhouse can be removed. Further care in summer it consists of regular watering as the soil dries and weeding. In the fall (September), the strongest seedlings can be transplanted to a permanent place, and the weak ones should be covered over the winter.

You can also root green lilac cuttings in flower pots or boxes at home. Preparation is carried out in the same way; cuttings are planted as in the picture.

When preparing planting material, you should take into account the fact that approximately half of the branches will take root and survive, so initially you need to prepare twice as many shoots for rooting. In this way, lilacs are propagated by cuttings in the spring.

You can get acquainted with the opinion of a specialist on the topic of how to propagate lilacs from cuttings in the video below.

Reproduction by woody shoots

Lilac propagation by cuttings can also be done by rooting already mature shoots, usually one-year-old branches. In this case, planting material is harvested in the fall or at the end of winter. The branches should also not be shorter than 15 cm and have at least 3 pairs of buds. The shoots must either be buried in the sand and stored in a cold cellar for the winter, or simply buried in the snow until spring.

In spring, planting lilacs using cuttings is done in the same way as the previous method. When harvesting branches, it should be taken into account that such shoots take root poorly, the survival rate will be best case scenario thirty %. If you plant lilacs from a twig in this way, the seedlings will begin to bloom no earlier than after 5 years.

Growing method from seeds

Lilac seeds are usually collected in late autumn, after leaf fall, before the first frost. After collection, they must be dried until full disclosure valves

Next, it is necessary to stratify them. To do this, the seeds are mixed with sand in a ratio of 1:3 (one part of seeds is 3 parts of wet sand) and kept in a refrigerator or cellar for two months.

Sowing of seedlings is carried out in March. The soil requires preliminary disinfection (steaming, treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, etc.). Lilac seeds are buried several centimeters into the ground; after watering, the container must be covered with film, creating a mini-greenhouse.

Shoots of ordinary lilac appear after 2 weeks, and varietal ones - 2-3 months after sowing.

After the sprouts appear, the coating from the container must be removed. At the age of 2 weeks, seedlings need to be planted in separate containers. Further care consists of regular watering (avoid waterlogging the soil).

You can also sow seeds directly into the ground; sowing time is before winter, before frost, until the soil is frozen. In the spring, when the seedlings have become a little stronger and several true leaves appear on each, the seedlings are planted.

Growing lilacs from seeds does not preserve the characteristics of the variety; the result can be unpredictable. Typically, this method is used when growing a rootstock for subsequent grafting of varietal lilacs.

Root growth

Propagation of lilacs by young root shoots is both the simplest and most natural method, because Lilacs have the ability to independently form shoots from the mother bush. In this case, the transplant is carried out only once, immediately to a permanent place, and the seedling receives minimal trauma.

The main advantage of this method is that young plant will have all the varietal characteristics of the mother.

Lilacs need to be planted in the fall, before mid-October, no later. The procedure is best performed on a cloudy day. Before separating a young plant, you need to thoroughly water the soil, cut the main root carefully, minimally damaging the fragile root system of the young bush, at a distance of at least 15-20 cm from the mother bush. After planting in a permanent place, it must be well watered and provided with shelter for the winter.

Some experts advise carrying out this procedure in the summer, starting in July, to give the young plant time to take root and strengthen after transplantation.

Root layering

You can propagate lilacs by layering. This propagation option can be carried out using 3 methods:

simple abduction;
Dahlem method (vertical layering);
Chinese method (horizontal layering).

Simple lead

This option for propagating lilacs is very simple to implement. In the spring, strong branches at the age of 1 year should be bent to the ground and buried, first secured with a pin or bracket. During the growing season, it is necessary to promptly moisten and add soil to the shoot in the place where it was buried.

This method requires a long time, since it will be possible to separate the young plant from the mother bush no earlier than 4 years after complete rooting and the formation of its own root system.

Dahlem way

The process of propagation of lilacs in this case will also drag on for several seasons, since only preliminary preparation takes 2 years. It consists of the following steps:

selection of mother bush;
complete pruning of branches in the fall for two seasons.

In the third year, as soon as the branches on the mother bush reach 20 cm in length, it is necessary to carry out the procedures in a certain sequence. Step by step it looks like this.

The very first buds, which are the most developed, are selected, and an incision is made in the bark under them. It is wrapped with wire in several turns, this is necessary in order to stimulate root formation. This is done with several of the strongest shoots so as not to weaken the entire bush.
The shoots are buried halfway, then soil is added as the young bush grows, so that it is always half in the ground.
In the fall, the cuttings must be dug up and replanted for growing.

Chinese way

This method of propagating lilacs is also called the horizontal layering method. It is also easiest to use by following the following sequence of steps.

In early spring, after the soil has dried out a little, choose a strong bush at the age of 3-4 years. Furrows 2 cm deep are made around it.
At the age of 1 year, strong branches should be placed in furrows and secured in several places.
Using copper wire, wrap each branch three times in front of the buds.
Cover the furrows with soil and water regularly.
After some time, new shoots will begin to grow from the ground, which, as they grow, must be covered with soil half their height, before the onset of autumn.
Add soil 3 times during the season, eventually the height of the embankment will be approximately 25 cm.
In September, young cuttings must be separated and grown over several years.

Lilac grafting

For an awakening bud (carried out in early spring, from early March to early April).
For a dormant bud (budding), it is carried out from the first ten days of July to the first ten days of August.

Most often, lilac grafting is carried out in the summer, since in early spring it is very difficult to catch the right moment. The procedure consists of several stages:

rootstock preparation;
scion preparation;
making a shield;
budding procedure;
care after budding.

Preparation of the rootstock

The most optimal is self-cultivation rootstock from seeds, because Vaccinations on layerings are less likely to end successfully. During the preparation process you need to do the following:

in June, trim the side branches, leaving shoots 10 - 14 cm;
a week before the procedure, you need to water the bush well to make the bark easier to separate.

The root collar should be up to 1.5 cm in diameter.

Scion preparation

When preparing material for budding, the following conditions must be met:

the scion shoot must be 1 year old;
the length of the grafting cutting should be from 20 to 30 cm, thickness up to 4 mm;
the scion shoot must be completely lignified, with large buds in the axils;
it must be cut off a week before the procedure;
after cutting, you need to remove the leaves, leaving the petioles;
Before grafting, store the grafting material in a cool, damp place (in the refrigerator, wrapped in a damp cloth or moss).

Making a shield

Shield – scion prepared for grafting. It is prepared as follows:

Large buds must be removed from the shoot (recommended in the middle part of the cutting);
at a height of 0.7 mm above the bud to be trimmed, use a sharp knife to make a shallow incision at an acute angle, a little deeper under the bud itself;
push the bark away from the edge of the cut, being careful not to damage the wood, otherwise the grafting will not work.

Budding procedure

The grafting process consists of a certain sequence of actions.

Clean the rootstock area and wipe the grafting area with a damp cloth.
Using a sharpened knife blade, make a cut in the shape of the letter T, 2 to 3 cm long, its height above the ground should be at least 3 cm from the surface of the ground.
Lightly separate the bark at the cut points.
Carefully insert the shield into the cut in the center, under the bark on the rootstock.
Secure the vaccination site with a bandage made of electrical tape or an elastic bandage. The bandage is attached to the entire surface of the graft, from top to bottom, but the bud must remain open.
The rootstock must be sprinkled with soil and can be watered after a week.
After 3 weeks, you can evaluate the result of budding. If the shield bud remains fresh, then the grafting was successful. If the bud on the scutellum has dried out, then budding has failed.

Before the onset of frost, the grafted rootstock is mulched with peat; the budding site should be at a depth of at least 10 cm.

In the spring, from the second half of March to the beginning of April, you should remove the peat, remove the bandage and cut the stem to a height of 5-7 cm above the bud, leaving the so-called thorn. The pruning area must be treated with garden varnish. To prevent the young grafted shoot from breaking, it is tied to a thorn. Starting from the third year, the grafted shoot can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Care after budding

Starting from the second year after grafting, you can begin to care for the grafted plant. You need to water it regularly, loosen the soil and trim off new growth. In spring you can fertilize complex fertilizer in an amount of 20-30 g according to the instructions for use.
In conclusion, it can be noted that among several types of lilac propagation, each gardener can choose the one that is most interesting to him. A novice flower lover can grow his own lilac from a cutting, and an experienced one can carry out budding on a grown one. with my own hands rootstock from seeds.

Today the lilac has become great decoration for many areas. She not only has an attractive appearance, but also wonderful aroma, which is very persistent. Therefore, many gardeners plant it on their site. She is not very picky about care and grows with climatic conditions, which are typical for Russia.

Lilacs come in different varieties that differ in their flowering. The traditional option is considered to be its purple shade, which is the most common. But there are also purple, white, pink shades of lilac. Such bushes become an excellent decoration for any site or garden. In addition, they can be used as a hedge.

Lilac propagation method

Propagating lilacs is not a complicated process that anyone can do, even at home. There are different ways to implement it. They are mainly carried out using shoots, layering, grafting and cuttings. The first two methods are the most capricious, as they require knowledge, skills and abilities to perform such work. Otherwise, they will not lead to the desired result. As for shoots and layering, it is more suitable for propagating bushes that are already growing on the site.

But often there is a need to bring lilacs from another territory to your own. If such a situation arises, then it is better to use cuttings. To carry it out, the main thing is to have scissors on hand, with the help of which the branch is cut.

It allows you to root a plant even from its flowers, or rather a bouquet. But there is an important note that must be observed - the lilac branches were cut a maximum of one day ago. Otherwise they are not suitable for planting. Because they have lost the properties that will promote growth.

Lilac cuttings: conditions

Since this type of plant is one that is difficult to take root, it is recommended to adhere to a number of conditions. They will help achieve successful reproduction. These include:

period of cutting cuttings. It is best to cut them early in the morning. At the same time, give preference to green branches that are blooming or have just finished blooming. Others have already become woody and are not capable of the rooting process;
choose the right cuttings. They are cut from young bushes, the age of which does not exceed five years. In this case, this should be the middle of the crown and the middle part of the shoot. The length of the cutting is at least ten centimeters. You also need to pay attention to having several buds on it, at least two. You should not use shoots that are on thick branches for propagation. They are not suitable for this task;
temperature and humidity. These indicators are very important. If you do not follow them, then you should not count on successful propagation of the plant. So for lilacs, the most suitable humidity is not less than 86%, but not more than 94%. And the temperature ranges from 21 to 24 °C.

Lilac cuttings: features of the process

Lilac cuttings can be carried out not only in spring, but also in summer. Basically it is better to do this at the end of August. This time of year has its own characteristics that must be taken into account when planting.

In addition, this method of planting has many advantages. It allows the plant’s own root system to develop better. Thanks to this, its life cycle is much longer. It can last up to thirty years, and if favorable conditions are created for its growth, even more. In this case, there is no need to periodically remove growth from the roots. Also, during the growth of lilacs, new planting material appears, which High Quality. Therefore, this method of propagation is often used to obtain additional varietal seedlings. They can be used both in this area and in others.

The only disadvantage of this method is its labor intensity. It requires the gardener's time and effort. But as practice shows, the result obtained is quite fast and stable, which is good news. After all, time and effort were not wasted, the plant is rooted in this area.

Rules for harvesting cuttings

Basically, cuttings are cut from bushes prepared in advance for this process. So they are given special care, and they are constantly watered and fed. But as practice shows, you shouldn’t overdo it with the latter. Since excess fertilizer can cause the growth of fatty shoots. And they, in turn, are not useful for propagation by cuttings.

Also, do not perform excessive circumcision. When performing this work, there are certain standards that must be observed. Otherwise, the plant will die. You should not expose the bottom of the bush, but stretching out the skeletal branches is also undesirable.

When preparing cuttings, it is better to give preference to thin branches that are well overgrown. They are located vertically in relation to the growth shoots. It is important that the plant does not become weaker from the loss of branches. Therefore, experts recommend taking no more than 75 percent of the cuttings, and it is better to do this after a year on one bush. This way he can gain strength over the season.

If the cuttings are green, it is not easy for them to take root. To make this process go better, you can use greenhouses or greenhouses. But even in such conditions, the reproduction result will not exceed fifty percent. Mostly it is forty.

Also, the cutting blank should have an oblique bottom, which is located under the node. At the same time, you should not pick off leaves or flowers. If it is not planted immediately, it can be stored covered with plastic wrap.

Preparation of cuttings

Before planting cuttings, they must be carefully prepared. This will have a beneficial effect on the rooting process and will stimulate root growth. To do this, they are advised to treat them with special solutions that regulate the plant growth process. This may be indolylbutyric acid or heteroauxin. The latter is mainly used by gardeners at home. It is available as an aqueous or alcoholic solution. It is prepared in advance according to the instructions indicated on the package.

It is used in this way: the cutting is dipped into an alcohol solution for a couple of seconds. If it is water-based, then it is necessary to keep it in it for about 17 hours, after which the cuttings are thoroughly washed with water.

Planting is done in a greenhouse or hotbed that is in the shade. Exposure to direct sunlight is undesirable. Also, do not use mixtures of soils. Since they contain sand, in which it is difficult for lilacs to take root. It is better to take soil mixture. It contains lowland and highland peat.

Preparing the place where the lilac cuttings are planted

Before planting, you need to pay attention to the place where the cutting will grow. For this purpose, it is prepared. It consists of laying out a drainage layer. Its height is up to 14 cm. Crushed stone or expanded clay is used for this. Then a layer of humus no more than 20 cm. On top of it is a soil mixture. The thickness of the last layer is up to 7 cm. This is all compacted and watered a little with a weak stream.

Planting lilac cuttings

The next stage of work is to directly plant the cuttings. It is done in rows. Moreover, the distance between seedlings is at least five centimeters, and the rows are ten. Then you need to water them generously.

In order for the plant to take root and begin to take root, it should be covered. For this purpose, a structure of not very high height, for example, 45 cm, is suitable. First, a frame is installed, which is covered with film in two layers. There should be fabric or White paper. It will protect the seedlings from direct sunlight, which can simply burn out the unrooted plant. The structure must be tightly fixed and sealed so that it does not open up in the wind or rain.

Seedling care

There are some secrets you need to know. After the cuttings are planted, they require special care. So, watering is not carried out often, mostly once a week. From time to time it is necessary to remove fallen leaves. They are not needed in the further process and spoil the overall appearance.

You should wait for the first roots to appear only after a month has passed. Then it is necessary to open the greenhouse for ventilation, but only in the evenings, since hot summer days will not have a favorable effect on the rooting of the plant. Then it can be removed completely and replanted in the fall to any other place, but this must be done as carefully as possible so as not to damage the very young root system. This is also done in the spring, but then the cuttings should be covered winter period so that they don't freeze.

When caring for the plant, do not over-water it. Lilacs do not like excess moisture. Also after this it is necessary to loosen the soil that is around the bush. Such actions will help create the most comfortable conditions for its growth: good air exchange. The root system will receive sufficient oxygen for its active development. It is also recommended to periodically mulch. For this you can use peat, sawdust, and humus.

Breeders regularly develop new varieties of lilac. Lush clusters of fragrant flowers will decorate any garden, and it is natural for a gardener to want to propagate the variety he likes. Lilac bushes are propagated by grafting, layering and cuttings. Accordingly, a distinction is made between grafted plants (developed after grafting on the roots of the rootstock) and self-rooted plants (obtained from cuttings and layering and having formed their own root system).

Own-rooted lilac has significant advantages over grafted ones: its life cycle is significantly longer (up to 25, and in favorable conditions– up to 50 years old); caring for it is not complicated by the need to regularly remove root growth; with further propagation, self-rooted plants produce high-quality varietal planting material.

Therefore, despite the labor intensity, this method of propagating lilacs, such as cuttings, deserves the attention of gardeners.

Cuttings should be prepared from those plants whose varietal purity you are sure of. The mother plant needs good care, regular watering and fertilizing. There is no need to overfeed them, since excess fertilizer leads to abundant growth fatty shoots unsuitable for cuttings. Heavy pruning can have the same effect. U mother plants recommended to support optimal height, avoiding stretching of skeletal branches and exposing the bush from below.

To take cuttings, it is best to choose thin, overgrowing branches that extend at an angle to the vertical growth shoots. At the same time, in order not to weaken the plant, it is advisable to use no more than 70 - 80 percent of the total number of shoots of the current year for cuttings and, if possible, avoid annual cuttings from the same bush.

Rooting green lilac cuttings is difficult; in the conditions of ordinary greenhouses or greenhouses, you should not count on results higher than 30, maximum 50 percent. When preparing cuttings, it is important to cut correctly; they must have an oblique lower cut located exactly under the node - it is usually not possible to achieve rooting of cuttings cut at internodes.

Cuttings are prepared during the flowering period of lilacs or after its completion. Cut them up to 15 cm long without removing the leaves. the prepared material is stored laid out under plastic film.

Pre-planting preparation of lilac cuttings

To increase the percentage of rooting and stimulate root formation, it is recommended to treat green cuttings with growth regulators before planting; in greenhouse conditions, indolylbutyric acid (IBA) is used for this, and amateur gardeners usually use heteroauxin in the form of an aqueous or alcoholic solution.

It is advisable to prepare a concentrated stock solution in advance, which is diluted to the desired concentration before use. To prepare the stock solution, take 98 percent ethanol or acetone and powdered growth regulator (1 g per 100 ml of alcohol). The mother liquor is stored for up to two months in a dark glass container.

The alcohol solution is prepared by diluting the mother alcohol by half. An aqueous solution from the mother liquor is obtained by adding 5–10 ml of IMC mother solution or 15–20 ml of heteroauxin solution to water, and then adjusting the volume of the liquid to one liter. For lilac, an aqueous solution of a growth regulator is used in higher concentrations than for cuttings of other plants: 50–100 mg of IBA or 150–200 mg of heteroauxin per liter.

When using an alcohol solution, the bases of the cuttings are dipped into the liquid for a few seconds; they are kept in an aqueous solution for 16–18 hours and then washed with water. Prepared cuttings are planted in greenhouses or low greenhouses located in partial shade. At the same time, you should not use soil mixtures containing sand, since lilacs do not take root well in them; The preferred composition of the soil mixture is: two parts low-lying peat, one part high-moor peat, one part coarse-grained perlite (M-150).

The place for planting cuttings is prepared as follows: 10–15 centimeters of a drainage layer (crushed stone or expanded clay can be used), 15–20 centimeters of humus or rotted manure and on top of it – 5 to 8 centimeters of soil mixture. All this must be compacted and carefully watered from a watering can.

Planting and caring for lilac cuttings

Prepared lilac cuttings are planted in a greenhouse in rows with a distance of 10 centimeters between them, 5 centimeters between cuttings in a row and watered abundantly. A shelter for cuttings is built at a small height (about 40 cm), covering the frame with two layers polyethylene film, between which there is white paper or fabric. The resulting covering material is tightly sealed and fixed along the edges of the greenhouse.

During the rooting period, when using this method, you can water the cuttings no more than once a week, while simultaneously removing fallen leaves. The first roots will appear no earlier than a month after planting, and the results can only be judged closer to autumn.

A month to a month and a half after planting, the greenhouse must begin to be ventilated in the evenings; later it will be possible to completely remove the shelter and transplant the plants to a permanent place in early autumn. Sometimes transplantation is postponed until spring, covering the cuttings with spruce branches for the winter. When replanting plants, care should be taken because root system in cuttings it is easily damaged.

The results of rooting depend both on the competent implementation of all necessary operations, and on the selected variety. So, for example, varieties Dream, Hope, Buffon take root quite well; worse results for varieties such as Joan of Arc, Hydrangea, Red Moscow; difficult to reproduce green cuttings varieties Katerina, Ludwig Speth, Havemeyer.

Fresh aroma under warm windows on a May night– this is the best evidence of the victorious spring and the imminent arrival of summer. Lilac flowers have many shades, aromas and varieties. We will tell you in this article what to do so that your favorite varieties grow nearby.

Cuttings

Like any beauty, lilac is quite capricious, so any method of propagation requires a lot of effort and has both advantages and disadvantages.

Cuttings are the most difficult method of propagating lilacs, since you need to adhere to a number of conditions in terms of timing, temperature and humidity. However, it is the most effective; it is most often used in the mass cultivation of lilacs.

Nowadays, any beginner can learn how to propagate lilacs by cuttings, since there are a lot of educational materials, including video materials, that are freely available.

Deadlines

Timely preparation of cuttings is one of the main features of this type of breeding. Propagation by green cuttings is carried out in the spring, during the flowering period or the following week, until the young green branches finish growing, since cuttings that have begun to become woody will no longer take root.

Blank

It is recommended to harvest cuttings early in the morning. They are taken from young bushes mainly from their middle, choosing those growing on the middle part of the shoots. You need branches of medium thickness, preferably with 2-3 nodes and small spaces between them.
Tops and shoots on thick branches are not suitable as they do not take root.

At the bottom node, cut off all the leaves. Then, just below it, an oblique cut is made, trying not to injure the plant, for this they take a sharp or sharp grafting knife.

If the cut goes through the internode, the cutting will not take root. The top of the cutting is cut off, right above the top node. The remaining leaves are cut in half.

After such cutting, the cuttings are placed in water with a dissolved solution, for example, indolyl butyric acid, an aqueous solution for 15-18 hours.

Did you know? Most varieties of lilac bloom in the spring, for about three weeks, but the Jose or Boomerang variety, and a number of others, bloom several times throughout the year.

Rooting

Rooting is best done in, it is better to place it in light shade or provide shelter from the sun.

The cuttings are buried so as to cover the lower node in the ground. Subsequent watering is carried out depending on the tightness of the greenhouse from twice a day to once a week, the main thing is to ensure that the soil does not dry out.

To combat mold, cuttings are treated with a weak solution no more than once a week.

Rooting takes a long time, from 40 days to a couple of months. In recent weeks, the cuttings need to be ventilated, and then completely opened.

Important! Different varieties of lilac root in different ways. Rooting of the varieties Nadezhda, Buffon, Mechta goes without problems, the results of the varieties Hortensia, Krasnaya Moskva, Zhanna D'Arc are worse, and the varieties Havemeir, Ludwig Shpet, Katerina practically do not take cuttings.

Landing

After rooting, the petioles can be replanted. If it is already autumn, then it is better not to touch them and replant them in the spring. When rooting has occurred before the end of summer, then from the beginning of autumn they can be transplanted into the “school” for growing.

Towards the end of root growth, the leaves on the cuttings may darken, this is normal, the main thing is that the buds are alive, then the seedling will take root.
The place for growing is determined in the sun, protected from the wind. The soil selected is light, neutral or. It is fertilized with humus and dug up with a shovel.

Fresh roots of cuttings are very delicate and fragile, so they are transplanted carefully, not compacted, but only so that the soil is slightly compacted. They are seated 30 cm from one another.

For the winter, the cuttings are covered with coniferous spruce branches, hay or other dry cover. Lilacs are grown for about two years, after which they can be planted in a permanent place.

The final planting of lilacs is best done in late summer - early autumn. When planting, the plant must be well watered. The planting site, if you do not take into account the design factor, you need to choose sunny, warm, with well-drained, neutral fertile soil, preferably level.

Lilac grafting

Vaccination is the most effective way propagation of varietal lilacs. You can graft not only on wild lilac, but also on any varietal lilac. You can grow a seedling for a rootstock yourself from seeds, but this will take you a couple of years; you can graft it onto it once it reaches a centimeter thickness.

There are many ways to graft plants; for lilacs, the best methods are copulation, ordinary bark grafting, cleft grafting, dormant bud budding (summer) and butt budding.

Deadlines

If you can cut lilacs only in the spring, when flowering is in progress, then you can graft most of the season. According to the time of vaccination, they can be divided into spring, before the sap begins to flow, and summer, when the tree is fully nourished by sap.

Before sap flow, copulations and grafting into clefts are carried out. With the onset of sap flow, the usual grafting is done with a cutting; this usually occurs during the flowering of lilacs. The period of budding of a dormant bud depends solely on the stage of bud maturation and occurs in mid- or late summer, depending on the region.

Important! Regardless of the period and type of vaccination, this should be done in dry, sunny weather.

The preparation of cuttings for scion is done at the beginning of winter, but it can be done at the end of winter or beginning of spring, before spring grafting.

Preparation of scion and rootstock

If the cuttings were cut at the beginning of winter, they are wounded in sawdust under the snow or in damp cloth, in a bag in the refrigerator.

For scion, you can buy it at special farms or from breeders. If you harvest cuttings yourself, you must adhere to a number of conditions.

Firstly, they are taken from known, proven bushes so that you know exactly what variety you are grafting. The bush should be relatively young, between three and ten years old.

Well-ripened, annual shoots are cut from the bush; they are cut from sunny side bush, preferably from the south side, from the outer part of the crown. It is best to take shoots at the middle height of the plant, since the lower ones are usually still small, and the upper ones are already too thick to take root.
The optimal cuttings will be 30-40 cm long and about 7 cm thick, with short internodes and well-defined, developed growth buds; there should be from 4 to 5 of them.

For rootstock you can use of different ages. Only the method of grafting will differ, for example, by copulating on thin shoots, and by copulating by bark on shoots thicker than one and a half cm. If an adult bush with a thick trunk is being grafted, then it is better to graft on all skeletal branches.

Did you know? Lilac is a member of the Olive family, and lilac flowers are edible.

Budding process

Budding with a dormant bud is one of the main methods of lilac grafting. It is held in July or August. For the rootstock, two-year-old seedlings or root shoots are taken.

In anticipation of budding, a couple of weeks in advance, the vegetation around the rootstock is cleared, and the lower lateral shoots and shoots coming from the roots are cut off. Before grafting, the trunk of the rootstock is thoroughly cleaned with a damp cloth.
A dormant bud (scutellum with an eye) is cut from the cutting, to do this, take a cutting bottom to your place left hand, place the knife a couple of centimeters above the kidney and, having slightly cut into it, draw it a little deeper than the kidney, finishing the cut below it.

On the trunk of the rootstock, 3-5 cm from the ground, make a T-shaped cut in the bark, carefully separate the bark on both sides of the vertical cut. The shield is placed in a T-shaped incision, removing the protruding part with a knife.

Then they wrap the grafting site, leaving the bud and petiole open. After the shield has fused with the barrel, the winding is removed. In early spring, part of the rootstock above the established bud is cut off.

Plant care

Usually the graft takes root in a couple of weeks, but they begin to grow much later, depending on the timing of grafting this summer, or even next. Therefore, as long as the cuttings have not dried out and the buds on them are green, the grafting is considered successful.

The scion garter is removed to avoid it growing into it, and if there is confidence that it will not be broken off by the wind. To ensure engraftment, it is necessary to remove shoots below the grafting site.

Lilac from root shoots

Probably the most in a simple way Lilac propagation is propagation by root shoots. This is done in the canopy, when the movement of juices in the lilac stops and the root system is not so sensitive.

It is advisable to choose a cloudy day. The bush from which the shoots are taken must be well strengthened and already blooming. After watering it beforehand, the young seedling is separated. Since young roots are very fragile, this should be done carefully so as not to tear them.

The resulting seedling, with already formed roots, is transplanted. The only drawback of this propagation is that the new plant will not bloom for about three years.

Seed propagation

Lilacs are propagated by seeds when they want to grow a rootstock for subsequent grafting of valuable lilac varieties or if they want to get a new variety.

The fact is that during flowering cross-pollination occurs and as a result the same lilac will no longer grow, the flowers will be different.

Of the resulting seeds, some will be similar to the mother’s, some will degrade to “wild” seeds (the flowers will be smaller and less common), they can be used for rootstock, and some can grow with superior splendor, aroma and color to the mother’s seeds. This is how new varieties are obtained.

Procurement of seeds

The seeds are collected in the fall, they are dried at home for several days until the boxes open; the speed of opening is determined by the type of lilac; if necessary, the seeds are extracted by hand.

Seeds are harvested a quarter more than necessary, so that substandard seedlings can then be rejected. The collected seeds are either sown for the winter or at home.

Preparation and sowing

Seeds can be sown directly into the ground before winter; this is done in already frozen soil or before the first snow falls. On clean soil, without and other plants, drop the seeds a couple of centimeters.

In the spring, after the snow has melted, this one is covered with film, and when the sprouts rise and grow (4-5 leaves appear), they are picked out and planted more freely.

If the seeds are saved for the winter, then they are mixed with wet sand, 3 parts of sand per part of the seeds, or put in honey wet wipes and placed in the refrigerator for several months. In the spring, they are sown on prepared film, or pre-sprouted at home in containers.

In the spring, it is advisable to pre-disinfect the soil in the beds using a thermal method to remove black rot and other fungi.

Seedling care

During cultivation, seedlings are fed or fertilized two or three times per season. Germination time depends greatly on the variety, but no later than three months.

When propagating from layering, we get viable seedlings within a year. In an ungrafted plant, this is important, annual shoots bend to the ground, are fixed in this position and covered with earth. Water during the season.

The grown bushes are separated and planted in the fourth year. Grafted lilacs are treated in this way: above the grafting site, the trunk is tied with wire, tilted and the plant is covered with soil two-thirds so that the tied area is in the ground.

By the end of the season, new roots will form above the constriction site, after which the cuttings can be separated and planted.

When you decide how to grow lilacs and which method to choose, you need to consider which of its advantages and disadvantages is critical to you. Cutting lilacs with green cuttings, although it is difficult and labor-intensive, makes it possible to immediately obtain many seedlings of the required variety. Write in the comments what questions you have not received an answer to, we will definitely respond!

You can recommend this article to your friends!

40 once already
helped

Sections