DIY hip or hip roof. Hip roof: from calculating the rafter system to do-it-yourself installation Drawings of a hip roof
At the sites country houses Increasingly, gazebos of all shapes, types and sizes are being installed. The most reliable roofing option for a gazebo is a traditional hipped structure with a ridge at the top. In this article we will talk about how a hip roof for a gazebo is designed, what its advantages are, how it should be calculated, what are the rules for its installation.
Types of hipped roofs
A hipped roof can be hip, half-hip or hip. To choose the right roofing option, you need to consider the features of each of these three types.
Hip roof
The hip roof has the shape of a pyramid. It consists of four identical triangular slopes, the tops of which are connected at one point. There is no ridge in this design. Hip roofing can only be used as a covering for square structures. If the gazebo has a rectangular shape, this roof option is not suitable for it.
Hip roof
Most universal option roofs for square or rectangular buildings. The design consists of slopes of various configurations. At the ends of the roof there are triangular slopes, they are called hips. Two more slopes are trapezoidal. The vertices of the trapezoids are connected to each other, and the line of their connection is called the ridge.
Half hip roof
This is a variant of the hip design, in which the triangular slopes are shortened. This roofing is ideal for attic cottages, but it is usually not used for gazebos.
From the above we can conclude that the best option for a gazebo, this is a hip roof. It is suitable for gazebos of any size and proportions, can be installed quickly and protects the building well.
Advantages of a hipped hip roof
The gazebo can be covered with a flat, pitched, gable or hip roof. But many homeowners prefer to install gazebos with a hip roof on their property. This is explained by the fact that the hip version has a number of advantages:
good protection of the building from wind and precipitation;
sediment does not accumulate on steep slopes;
such a roof itself has an aesthetic appearance;
a gazebo with a hipped roof looks more solid;
the pitched roof does not block the view from the gazebo;
any roofing materials can be used for its arrangement;
if you slightly modify the rafter structure, you can get a roof of the original shape;
high strength;
low windage.
However, in order for the roof to be strong and durable, it must be correctly calculated and designed. Highly qualified specialists must assemble the rafter system and lay the roofing.
services for designing small architectural forms: gazebos, grill houses, etc.
Design elements
A hip roof consists of a complex set of elements that are assembled into a single strong and reliable structure.
Stingrays. 4 roofing planes starting at the ridge girder and forming bottom roof overhangs. The hip roof has 2 triangular and 2 trapezoidal slopes.
Hips. These are triangular slopes. They are located above the end facades of the building and serve as a pediment.
Ridge run. A beam at the top of the roof, located between the upper corners of the triangular slopes.
Puffs. Floor beams that are installed below, at the base of the roof.
Rigel. Another puff located directly under the ridge.
Mauerlat. Bottom support for rafters. It is a beam with a wide cross-section, laid along the perimeter of the walls of the building.
Jumper. A timber tie dividing the rafter duo in half.
Narozhniki. Short rafter legs that are attached to diagonal rafters.
Central rafters. They are connected to the diagonal rafters and the top of the ridge. There are usually 6 such elements in the design. Their installation must be carried out with special care.
Intermediate rafters. At the bottom they are attached to the mauerlat, and at the top to the ridge girder.
Diagonal rafters. The ribs of the hips are formed. Connect to the corners of the mauerlat and the end of the ridge. They are longer than the intermediate rafters, their cross-section is wider, and their location is flatter.
Floor beams. Tightenings installed at the base of the rafters.
Struts. Supports necessary to ensure that the rafters do not sag. If the roof length is less than 4.5 meters, struts do not need to be used.
Sprengel. A member consisting of two beams required to support diagonally laid rafters.
Rack. A beam installed vertically in the center of the roof. The horse rests on it. Serves to distribute the weight of the rafter system onto the load-bearing elements.
The structural elements are connected using strong hardware. On some parts, you need to make cuts for proper joining.
Calculations
To calculate materials for a hip roof, a number of formulas and tables are used. The main data on which the calculations are based are the construction parameters and design solutions for the roof itself. Even in cases where the simplest hip roof for a gazebo is required, it must be calculated by a qualified specialist.
On our website you can find contacts construction companies, which offer services for the construction of small architectural forms: gazebos, grill houses, etc. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.
Drawing up drawings
It is necessary to construct a roof only if you have previously prepared drawings indicating the dimensions and location of each structural element. A hipped roof for a gazebo, the drawings of which are correctly designed, will last for decades without repair or reconstruction.
Design is carried out taking into account many factors:
weight of the rafter system;
weight of roofing and insulating materials;
precipitation load;
weight of equipment that will be installed on the roof.
The strength of the structure is calculated with some margin. The roof must withstand additional loads, such as the weight of a person climbing on it for inspection or cleaning.
After completing the strength calculations, the slope of the slopes is determined. At this stage, the climatic features of the region and the intended design of the future gazebo are taken into account. In regions with strong winds It is not recommended to make a high roof. The fact is that the higher the structure, the greater its windage indicators. Winds are better resisted by gentle slopes covered with polycarbonate or bitumen material.
If the area in which the site is located is characterized by loss of large quantity precipitation, it is better to build a gazebo with a high roof. A tilt of 50-60 degrees is suitable. In this case, it is better to choose metal tiles as a covering.
When designing a roof, it is necessary to remember that each individual roofing material has its own restrictions on the slope of the slopes. In addition, different coatings have their own recommendations regarding the pitch of the rafter legs.
Installation
A hip roof can be mounted on a gazebo made of any material. In the case of a wooden gazebo, before starting roofing work, the entire structure should be reinforced using a tie beam. After this, you can begin constructing the rafter system.
The same distance is retreated from the center of the tightening in both directions and 2 racks are placed. The racks are vertically fixed in a vertical position with struts, which are installed temporarily. The upper parts of the racks are connected with a ridge girder.
After this, ordinary rafter legs are secured. The number of rafters for the gazebo depends on the pitch and size of the roof planned in the drawings. At the next stage, diagonal rafters are attached.
The next step is installing the spigots. They are attached with one side to the top frame of the walls, and the other to the diagonal rafters.
A waterproofing film is laid on the rafters. Sheets of film are overlapped and secured with a stapler. At the bottom, the insulating material is pressed with slats.
Video description
Installation of a hip roof of a gazebo
A continuous sheathing is attached on top, secured with OSB nails. After the construction of this entire structure, the roofing covering is laid in accordance with the technology for using the selected material.
Options for gazebos with a hipped roof
The country gazebo can be completely closed, glazed, open, in classic or modern style, combined with summer kitchen or billiard room, etc.
Video description
Gazebo-summer kitchen
Gazebo 3 by 4 made of wood
A gazebo of this type can be purchased ready-made or built from pre-prepared parts on the site. It is quite convenient for arranging a small recreation area. This example shows that a hip roof for a 3x4 gazebo is ideal in shape and design.
Gazebo-terrace with summer kitchen
The version of the gazebo presented below demonstrates the possibility of using completely open structures consisting of supports and a canopy. To hide the area from prying eyes and protect the equipment and furniture located in it from rain, you can use curtains made of moisture-resistant fabric.
Gazebo 3 by 3
An openwork compact gazebo that is suitable for small area. It takes up little space and yet looks very aesthetically pleasing. The hip roof reliably protects the gazebo from rain, winds and sunlight. The roof for a 3x3 gazebo can be gable or hipped; the hip design makes it stronger and more durable.
Gazebo made of stone and wood
An option for a solid stylish gazebo, which would not be so solid and presentable with a simple gable or flat roof. When creating such a summer building, special attention should be paid to strength wooden supports, since a fairly heavy roof will be installed on them.
Winter gazebo
Below is an image of a gazebo that can be used in winter time. On three sides it is fenced with walls made of timber or sip panels. The front façade is completely glazed so that there is always enough natural light inside. It makes sense to immediately build such gazebos with a barbecue, Russian stove or fireplace.
Conclusion
The hip roof gives a simple gazebo a stylish and original appearance. At the same time, it is better protected from strong winds than other roofing structures, and precipitation does not accumulate on it. The hip roof of the gazebo must be properly designed and constructed with high quality. If installed correctly, it will last as long as possible without requiring complex care or repair.
Roofs with four slopes have higher reliability and resistance to loads. This design is much more complex than a conventional gable one, and installation takes longer. And yet, a do-it-yourself hipped roof is a completely doable task if you prepare properly and study in detail the intricacies of its construction.
The hip roof has many variations. The most simple design It consists of 2 trapezoidal slopes connecting in the center of the roof, and 2 triangular slopes on the side of the gables. Sometimes all four slopes are made triangular, then the ribs of the roof converge at a central point. More complex designs involve the presence of broken lines, a combination of short slopes with pediments, built-in straight and inclined windows, as well as multi-level slopes.
Without appropriate experience, it is impossible to build a rafter system of such a configuration, so it is better to pay attention to a standard hip roof.
The slope of the slopes can have an angle from 5 to 60 degrees. To calculate the optimal slope value, the following factors must be taken into account:
Gentle slopes are not suitable for arranging an attic, since they take up too much free space. Therefore, if an attic is planned in the house design, the roof slope should be 45 degrees or higher. Select the angle of inclination depending on the type roofing can be done using a table.
Atmospheric loads also have great importance. Where there is a lot of snow, you cannot make a slope of less than 30 degrees, otherwise the rafter system will not withstand the loads. If the angle of inclination is more than 60 degrees, the snow load can be ignored. In addition to these factors, you should consider the location of objects such as water tanks or ventilation chambers. They are usually suspended from the rafters and place additional stress on them. After preliminary calculations You can start drawing up a drawing of the rafter system.
Materials for roof installation
Like a gable roof, a hip roof consists of a mauerlat, tie rods, rafters, support posts, ridge beams and sheathing. The difference between the second design is the location of the rafters and their length. For a hipped roof, it is recommended to use lumber from pine or larch, good quality, without defects, with a maximum humidity of 22%.
The rafters are made from boards with a section of 50x100 mm; if the roof area is very large, it is better to take 50x200 mm boards. For the Mauerlat you need a solid beam with a cross-section of at least 150x150 mm. Additionally, you will need threaded metal studs for fastening the Mauerlat, boards for sheathing and overhead metal plates, which are used to connect wooden elements.
Before assembling the roof, lumber must be impregnated with an antiseptic agent.
During the work you will need the following tools:
- hacksaw;
- building level;
- plumb line and tape measure;
- hammer;
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- chisel;
- Circular Saw.
Rafter system installation technology
Step 1. Laying the Mauerlat
In houses made of timber, the functions of the mauerlat are performed by the last crown of the log house, in which special grooves are cut for the rafters. IN brick houses The Mauerlat is laid on the walls around the perimeter of the box, having previously secured metal studs with threads between the bricks of the last rows. To more accurately mark the holes for fasteners, the timber is lifted and laid on top of the tips of the studs, and then hit with a hammer. After this, clear marks remain on the tree, along which holes are drilled.
Having removed the timber for drilling, the surface of the walls is covered with one or two layers of waterproofing material, usually roofing felt. It is placed directly on the studs and pressed downwards. Next, lay the Mauerlat, aligning the holes with the studs, align them horizontally and screw the nuts tightly onto the threads. At the corners, the beams are connected with metal plates or brackets. After fastening, the beam should not move even a millimeter, because the reliability of the entire rafter system depends on this.
Step 2. Installation of racks
If the house does not have a central load-bearing wall, it is necessary to lay the support beam perpendicular to the load-bearing floor beams. Connect two boards with a cross section of 50x200 mm, leaving a gap of 50 mm between them. To do this, short bars 50 mm thick are inserted between the boards and nailed down. The distance between the bars is about 1.5 m; the beams are not fastened at the ends. Having measured the middle of the attic, lay the support beam so that its ends extend beyond the boundaries of the Mauerlat by 10-15 cm.
Now take 3 boards 50x150 mm, cut them to the height of the roof, and install them on the support beam using a plumb line. Each post should rest against the beam where the boards are connected by a block. The racks are temporarily reinforced with beams made from beams. The top of the racks is connected by a ridge beam, for which a 50x200 mm board is used.
Step 3. Attaching the central rafters
They take a rafter board and attach it with one end to the ridge beam and the other to the mauerlat on the front side of the building. Immediately adjust the length of the eaves overhang and cut off the excess. Mark the lines of the cuts with a pencil, after which they cut off the upper end of the board and make a groove in the mauerlat 1/3 of the width of the rafter. The board is nailed to the ridge, the lower edge is inserted into the groove on the Mauerlat and secured with metal plates.
The rest of the rafters are made in the same way and installed in 60 cm increments from the facade of the house. The outer boards should be positioned perpendicular to the ridge beam and attached to its ends. On the opposite side of the building, everything is done in the same way. On the hips there is only one rafter on each side: the board is placed on its edge and attached with the upper end to the ridge beam, and the lower end is inserted between the boards of the support beam and secured with nails.
Step 4. Attaching the corner rafters
To make corner rafters, two boards with a section of 50x150 mm are usually connected. In one of the upper corners of the box, at the point of connection of the mauerlat beams, a nail is driven in and a thin cord is tied to it. At the point of connection between the ridge and the central rafter, a nail is also driven in from the hip side, a cord is pulled to it and secured. This is how the line of diagonal, or corner, rafters is designated. Their length must be the same, otherwise the roof will be uneven. The prepared rafter is lifted up, placed along the markings and connected to the ridge beam and mauerlat. The overhang of the rafters is approximately 50-70 cm.
Step 5. Installation of spigots
To secure the diagonal rafters, they use spigots - shortened rafters, the lower end of which rests on the mauerlat and located at right angles to the ridge beam. They are attached in increments of 60 cm, starting from the outermost ordinary rafter. As they approach the diagonal, the narozhniki make everything shorter. Now it is necessary to strengthen the structure with ties and braces, as well as install additional vertical supports.
If the span under the diagonal rafter is more than 7 m, you need to install another support at a distance of a quarter of the span from the corner of the attic. The lower end of the rack should rest on the floor beam. In the case when the beam is located further than the designated place or is completely absent, instead of a vertical post, a sprengel is attached - a horizontal jumper made of timber, the ends of which are nailed to the sprocket.
Step 5. Installation of the sheathing
When all the supports are installed, you can fill the sheathing. For a hipped roof, the sheathing is done in the same way as for a gable roof. First, a waterproofing membrane is attached to each slope separately. The joints are carefully taped, and then thin slats are stuffed over the membrane to provide an air gap. The boards are laid in increments of up to 40 cm, depending on the type of roof, and always perpendicular to the rafters.
At this point, the assembly of the rafter system is considered complete. All that remains is to insulate the structure, lay the roofing, install wind strips and sheathe the overhangs. To make a hipped roof look more stylish, it is recommended to install inclined or straight windows on the slopes.
Video - DIY hipped roof
Roofs of complex shapes attract special attention to the architecture of the building. Hip roofs are popular in the construction of country houses. Four slopes located in different planes give the home a respectable appearance. Most often, the slopes are made in different shapes: two of them are triangular and act as pediments, two have a trapezoid shape.
Design advantages
Installing a hip or hip roof, in addition to its aesthetic appearance, also has practical advantages:
- in the attic, surrounded by a roof on all sides, a comfortable temperature is maintained;
- the rafter structure is strong and durable;
- high resistance to winds and precipitation;
- the space under the roof can be used for an attic.
Types of hipped roofs
Having a common base, the subtypes of such coatings differ slightly in design:
- – classic version with two triangular hips and two trapezoid-shaped slopes.
- Semi-hip - triangular slopes have a shortened shape, this design is made for attic equipment.
- Tent - has the shape of a pyramid with triangular slopes. Suitable for square building.
Design
The angle of inclination for the slopes is selected based on the recommendations of the roofing material manufacturers and natural features. For a soft roll roof, an angle of up to 18 degrees is sufficient; for slate, an angle of 15–60 degrees is suitable, and underneath it is worth laying a slope of 30 to 60 degrees.
The amount of precipitation in winter is of great importance; if a significant amount of snow falls, it is better to choose steep slopes on which precipitation is less retained.
When designing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account a lot: the cross-section of the beam, the length of the rafters, the size of the run, the pitch of installing elements. All possible roof loads are clarified at the design stage, these include:
- weight of the selected roofing covering;
- annual precipitation;
- weight of insulation and waterproofing;
- installation of various equipment on the roof (antennas, lights, windows, etc.);
In addition to the inherent loads, the roof of the house must have a safety margin that guarantees the stability of the structure in an unforeseen situation. Timber and boards are used to construct the rafter system. If there is a need to strengthen the elements, the boards are doubled.
Before starting work, all lumber is treated with an antiseptic.
Sequence of work
Installation of the roof begins with securing the load-bearing base - the Mauerlat. This is a beam with a cross section of 150x150 mm, which is laid along the perimeter of the walls. Its horizontal placement is controlled by a level. The beam should not be on the edge of the wall; you need to leave a distance of 5–7 cm. The Mauerlat is fastened to studs embedded in the masonry, which are tightened with nuts. This beam allows you to connect the rafter system and the walls of the house into a common structure.
To install the racks, floor beams or beams are required. These elements are made from beams measuring 100×200 mm or double boards. All supports are installed strictly vertically and attached to the bed with a metal corner or plate. For a hip roof, the racks are installed in one line, and a ridge purlin is attached to them. When erecting a hip-type roof, the supports are placed diagonally, equal distances are set aside from the corner. As a result, they form a rectangle on which the purlins are laid. Fastening is done with corners.
The side rafters are installed after processing according to the template. A thin board is taken as a blank, applied to the purlin and the cut is marked. The second end rests against the Mauerlat and the lower cut is outlined. Required amount the rafters are prepared according to a template and installed with the selected fastening pitch; it can range from 60 cm to 1 meter. The connection to the purlin and base occurs with staples or self-tapping screws.
Sloping rafters with a ridge purlin form the angle of inclination of the slopes. These rafters are located diagonally and carry additional load, so double boards are used for them. The cutting of the slanted rafters is carried out according to a template, their length takes into account the overhang of 50 cm. In the upper part, the slanted rafters are connected by a crossbar to give strength. When installing a hip roof, the slanted rafters are connected at the ridge unit using tie-rods. The rafters are installed at an angle of 90 degrees and are certainly connected to the walls using wire clamps.
Short rafters or rafters are attached to the diagonal rafters. They are made of different lengths, but must be parallel to each other. The rafts, together with the ordinary rafters, form the side slopes. For the tent model, installing the extensions and fastening the racks, struts and trusses is also the final stage of construction.
To relieve the load from the diagonal rafters, trusses are installed under them. These are vertical supports that rest on the beds. The side rafters are secured with struts. One of the horses of the board rests on the leg, and the second is cut at 45 degrees and attached to the rafter leg.
Lathing and insulation
Completing the construction of the roof will allow it to be insulated basalt wool or foamed polystyrene. The material is laid between the rafters. The roof will be protected from moisture by a layer of waterproofing. The dimensions of the sheathing depend on the type of roofing; on the hip type, soft tiles look attractive; they require a continuous sheathing.
Watching a video explaining the nuances of installing rafters will help you conduct construction correctly.
Video
See how the rafter system is installed:
A hip roof, provided it is constructed correctly, is distinguished not only by its presentable appearance, but also by increased strength, which allows it to effectively withstand precipitation and strong winds. In this article we will talk about the structure of the rafter system of a hipped roof, consider the types of such frames, and also describe detailed plan works on their construction.
Comparative characteristics of frame types: hip and hip
The category of roof with four slopes includes 2 types of frame systems, which schematically look like square (hipped structure) and rectangular (hip roof) envelopes. In our country, the envelope roof is quite popular. Main feature hipped roofs are the absence of gables. To construct the rafter system of a hipped roof, in both cases hanging and layered rafters are used. Their assembly methods are standard for roofs with any number of slopes.
Distinctive features of the four pitched roofs different designs:
- In the case of a hip frame, the roof consists of four isosceles triangles whose vertices touch at one point. IN in this case the functions of the ridge are assigned to the central support beam in layered structures, or to the top point of the hanging rafter truss.
- A hip-type roof assumes the presence of two triangular and two trapezoid-shaped slopes. In this case, the trapezoidal slopes are adjacent to the ridge beam with their upper ribs, and the triangular slopes with their vertices. In this case, all four slopes touch each other with lateral ribs.
Studying the plan of the rafter system of a hipped roof, we can conclude that the choice of the configuration of a hipped roof depends on the shape of the building. That is, square houses are covered with hipped structures, and rectangular houses are covered with hip roofs. In this case, you can use any roofing materials, both hard and soft.
When drawing up drawings of the rafter system of a hipped roof, you should clearly indicate the geometric shape, as well as indicate the position of individual elements and the projections of the slopes with exact dimensions.
As a rule, hip and hip-type rafter systems are combined with traditional ones - single-pitched, gable and sloping roofs within one object.
To support a hipped structure, you can use a Mauerlat, which is top harness on concrete or brick walls oh, and also the top crown of the log house. Layered technology is used in cases where it is possible to install upper and lower supports under each rafter leg.
- The Mauerlat must be reinforced to withstand the pushing forces in the event of rigid fixation of the rafter legs with wooden plates or metal corners.
- If the upper part of the leg is fixed rigidly, and the lower part is hinged, the Mauerlat can be fixed in the usual way. In this case, when the load on the frame increases, the rafters will be able to move slightly.
- The bursting load and pressure on the Mauerlat will be leveled by using rigid fastenings on the lower part of the rafters and hinged fastenings on the upper heels.
Please note that the method of laying the Mauerlat and the entire rafter system should be provided for at the building design stage. In the absence of internal load-bearing walls and the impossibility of placing supporting elements for the central part of the roof, hanging rafter technology is used. However, most often they install an inclined type of stable frame, having provided for the presence of load-bearing structures in advance.
When constructing hip and hip frames, the following specific components of the rafter system of a hipped roof are used:
- Diagonal legs from which the ridges of the slopes are made. In hip-type frames, such slanting legs combine the corners of the roof with its highest point. Hip frames involve joining the ridge beam consoles to the corners using diagonal rafters.
- Cornices (half-legs) are elements mounted at an angle of 90 degrees to the cornices. Since they connect to diagonal rafters and are parallel to each other, their length will vary. Roof slopes are created from such elements.
These same structural elements are used to create valleys, with the only difference being that the corners are made concave.
It is the installation of slanted rafters that poses the greatest difficulty. Moreover, these elements will bear an increased load, since they serve as a supporting element for fastening in the upper part of the ridges, that is, they act as a ridge. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to calculate the rafter system of a hipped roof.
In general, the process of erecting a roof with four slopes includes the following steps:
- Laying mauerlat on walls made of brick or concrete. In log houses, this element is the upper crown.
- Installation of a central support beam under a hip frame or assembly of support structures for a hip roof.
- Installation of layered rafter legs under one or another structure.
- Attaching diagonal rafters that align the corners of the roof with the central peak or ends of the ridge.
- Marking and installation of spigots.
If it is expected hanging type rafter system, then the first stage of creating a tent structure will be the placement of a central truss in the shape of a triangle. When creating a hip-type structure, several trusses are attached at the starting stage.
Construction of a hip roof
Since private construction mainly uses hip roofs with layered rafters, let us consider in more detail the process of installing a hipped rafter system of this design. The support for the structures will be the floors placed on the Mauerlat.
Fixation using the cutting method will be performed only at the junction of the ridge with the rafters, so the Mauerlat can be installed on conventional fasteners. In the building under consideration, the box of the house has dimensions of 8.4 × 10.8 m. The roof on the plan will exceed the dimensions of the house by 40-50 cm on each side - this is the width of the eaves overhang.
Plan for laying supports on the Mauerlat
Depending on the material used to construct the walls of the building, the mauerlat can be laid in various ways.
- In the upper part of the walls made of gas silicate or foam concrete blocks, you need to pour a reinforced concrete belt in which to place anchors for subsequent fixation of the Mauerlat.
- When constructing brick walls, a side of 1-2 bricks is made in their upper part so that a recess is formed in the center of the wall for a wooden frame. As the bricks are laid, wooden plugs are placed between the bricks, to which the Mauerlat will be fixed with brackets.
For the Mauerlat you will need a beam with a cross section of 100×150 or 150×150 mm. When planning the use of space under the roof, thicker beams should be used. The frame elements are joined with oblique notches, followed by reinforcement with nails, screws or screws, and in the corners with staples.
Next, you need to place the ceiling elements on the Mauerlat. They are made from bars with a cross section of 100×200 mm. The central beam is laid first. If the length of the lumber is not enough, it is made from two pieces of timber. Moreover, the connection point should be on a supporting element, for example, a load-bearing wall.
In this case, the beams are laid in 60 cm increments. As a rule, the box has non-ideal dimensions, so the spacing between the beams can be slightly adjusted to smooth out imperfections. The distance from the walls of the house to the outer beams located on both sides should be 90 cm. This is required for the installation of outriggers.
Extensions are attached to the end parts of the floor beams. For convenience, they are first placed only in those places where the rafters will be installed later. They are fastened to the surface of the outrigger mauerlat with nails, and to the beams with dowels, large-section nails, and self-tapping screws, after which the fastening is reinforced with corners.
Assembling the ridge section of a hipped roof
The central section of the hip roof is nothing more than a traditional gable construction. Consequently, its assembly is carried out using technology for pitched roofs. Although such a design usually involves the presence of a bed on which supports for the ridge are placed, in in this example the functions of such an element are assigned to the central floor beam.
The ridge section of the roof is done as follows:
- First, a supporting structure is assembled for the rafters, which will rest against the ridge beam with their upper heels. The skate itself will be supported by three support pillars, of which the middle one is mounted directly on the central beam of the floor. To correctly install the two outer pillars, transverse bars are placed under them on top of the ceiling, covering at least 5 beams in length. The struts provide additional stability to the structure. The supporting elements of the frame are made of timber with a cross-section of 100×150 mm, and the struts are made of boards 50×150 mm.
- To ensure that all rafters are the same, a template is made for cutting them. To do this, a board of the required length is tried on at the installation site, the cuts are marked, and then all the rafters are cut along it.
- The finished rafters are supported on the ridge beam by the cutting point, and the lower part is secured to the outrigger.
Typically, floor beams are placed perpendicular to the frame so that the support of the rafter legs in the central part of the roof rests on them. Since in the example under consideration the rafters are connected to the extension, the installation of additional supports is necessary. They are placed in such a way as to redistribute the load from the rafters and supports to the walls.
In the end, you need to install three rows of stems on each side. After this, a cornice is attached strictly horizontally to the floor beams and extensions, facilitating further work on the roof.
Fastening the corner extensions of the rafter system
It is necessary to install corner extensions in the corners behind the cornice board.
They are attached like this:
- From the corner to the place of the conventional intersection of the floor beam with the outer support of the frame, a string is pulled.
- A block is placed along its contour in the right place. On the block you need to mark the places where it intersects the floor beam and corner joint cornice. According to the markings, all excess is cut off.
- Using corners, the finished element is attached to the ceiling and mauerlat.
The same actions are performed with all remaining offsets.
Installation of sloped rafters - drawings
The diameter of the diagonal rafters coincides with the dimensions of the ordinary elements. Since in our example the slope of the trapezoidal slopes and hips is different, one of the sloped legs is placed slightly higher than the other.
The process of creating and installing slopes is as follows:
- Using laces, we outline additional lines for marking the cut, pulling it to the corners and the center of the slope from the top point of the ridge beam.
- Determine the angle between the top of the corner stem and the lace. This will be the angle for the bottom cut (α). The upper cut (β) is calculated using the formula: β=90º-α.
- We take a piece of board and cut one edge of it at an angle β. Having attached the workpiece to the place where the upper parts are joined, we combine its edge with the lace. We mark the excess and saw off.
- In another blank for the lower heel, we saw off a section at an angle α.
- Using the resulting templates, the first diagonal rafter is cut out. If there is no whole board of the required length, the element is assembled from two pieces. They are spliced using an inch board, 1 m long, placing it on the outside of the rafters. Finished item can be installed.
- The second half of the diagonal rafters is made in the same way, not forgetting that it should be placed slightly lower than the first. The junction of the two halves of the slope should not coincide with the section where the boards are joined into one piece.
- The boards are joined with nails at a distance of 40-50 cm.
- Next, you need to draw a saw line along the lace on the rafter so that it can be joined to the adjacent diagonal element.
The manufacture of the remaining 3 parts is carried out in the same way. Supports are installed under each of these rafters in the places where the beams meet the corner extensions. Additional supports near the ridge are required if the span exceeds 7.5 m.
Assembly and installation of hip rafter legs
We measure along a stretched cord from the ridge to the center of the slope bottom cornerγ and calculate the opposite angle δ=90º-γ. Just as with diagonal parts, templates are made for cuts on the upper and lower heels of the element so that it fits tightly between the diagonal rafters. Having made the central hip rafter, it must be installed in the appropriate place.
Structural rigidity and reliable fastening of the shortest extensions are ensured by installing short extensions between the cornice and corner extensions.
At the next stage, they make templates for the makers:
- A piece of board is sawn off at an angle δ and tried on at the junction with the diagonal leg.
- Distinguish extra areas, then they are sawed off. This template will be needed to create all the flaps that will be installed on one side of the hip. For the other half, the cut on the blanks will need to be done on the opposite side.
- The lower heel of the splices is cut according to a template sawn off at an angle γ. This blank is suitable for creating lower joints on all spigots.
The production of spigots is carried out taking into account the estimated length of the elements and according to the manufactured templates. They will fill the planes of the hips and main slopes. The installation of these parts is carried out so that the junction points of the slopes with the spouts on opposite sides do not converge in one place, that is, apart. The fastening elements for connecting the frames with the diagonal rafters are angles, and with the outriggers and floor beams - jagged plates or angles - whichever is more convenient.
The construction of a roof with a hip frame is carried out using the same technologies as with a hip frame. The only difference is the absence of a ridge in hipped roofs. In this case, the installation of the hip roof rafter system begins with joining the diagonal rafters, and then the splices. If hanging rafters are used, the central truss is installed first.
Thus, a detailed study of the features of the construction of hipped roofs will allow you to begin creating frame structure with knowledge of affairs.
The roof is no less important element houses than the foundation and walls. Its design sets the mood for the entire architectural ensemble, making the building neat and attractive. The hipped roof has gained wide popularity not only because of its high reliability and external attractiveness, but also due to the opportunity to equip additional structures - attic and dormer windows, bay windows, etc. Despite the fact that the installation of such a roof is a little more expensive and more complex than a gable structure , it is still easy to build it with your own hands.
Advantages of hip roofs over gable structures
One of the main tasks that appears even at the stage of designing your own home is choosing the type of roof. The presence of many options among gable and hipped structures requires an answer to the question of which roof to give preference to. And although the aesthetics of the structure plays an important role, the criteria of reliability and practicality still come to the fore.
A gable roof is a classic structure that is formed by two opposite slopes and a pair of vertical end parts called gables. The spacious under-roof space allows you to equip an attic, living space or use the attic for domestic purposes.
Classical gable roof easy to recognize by a pair of rectangular slopes that adjoin each other along the central axis of the building, and two triangular pediments at its ends
Structures of this type due to their simplicity and practicality long time remained the most popular in individual construction. At the same time, the dependence of the roof geometry on the size of the building, as well as the complication and rise in cost of the structure when arranging the attic, forced the search for other, more practical and functional options. And they were found in the form of a variety of hipped roofs, which are based on a pair of triangular and two trapezoidal slopes. The latter are often called hips, and the roof itself is called a hip roof. When erecting a structure of this type, there is no need for gables and it becomes possible to make the building more modern and original.
The slopes of the simplest hip roof define surfaces in the form of two trapezoids and a pair of triangles
There are several advantages of hip roofs over traditional gable structures:
- the possibility of installing attic windows directly on the slopes;
- increased strength, reliability and stability of the rafter system;
- increased resistance to weather factors;
- possibility of increasing the area attic space simply reducing the width of the hip base;
- more uniform distribution of roof weight;
- improved temperature regime when arranging an attic space.
Don’t be fooled by the numerous advantages of a more stylish hipped roof - it also has disadvantages. These include a more complex design, a slight reduction in the size of the attic space and wasteful use of roofing material. As for expenses, the budget required for the construction of one and the other roof differs slightly.
The hipped roof is not a know-how in architecture - its design has been known since ancient times
Classification of hip roofs
Differences in the shape of buildings, as well as the requirements for functionality and practicality of the traditional hip roof, have led to many variations. If we do not consider the most exotic of them, then we can distinguish several main types of hipped roofs.
- Traditional hip roof, the side slopes of which reach the eaves level. To construct its main surfaces, straight rafters are used, and the ribs of the hips form beams extending from the ends of the ridge. The elaborate design and distribution of the weight of the roof over a larger area allows not only to position the overhangs on the same line, but also to increase their reach. Thanks to this, the façade of the building is reliably protected from rain even in strong gusts of wind.
Glazing elements are often built into the slopes of a classic hip roof.
- A hip roof can be installed on a house that has a square shape in plan. A special feature of this design is the slopes of the same configuration. Their ribs converge at one point, and their hips have the shape of isosceles triangles.
Hip roofs are widely used in modern individual construction
- Half-hip roofs got their name because of the shortened hips. Unlike traditional roofing, their length is reduced by 1.5–3 times compared to the size of the main slopes.
The side slopes of half-hip roofs have a shortened length, so they do not reach the eaves line
- The Danish half-hip roof has a small gable under the ridge and a short hip on the eaves side. This design allows you to install ventilation and lighting elements directly into the vertical end of the roof, thereby eliminating the need to install skylights.
The Danish project is good because it allows you to easily equip attic spaces
- A half-hip Dutch roof has a vertical gable that divides the hip into two short slopes. Although the “Dutch” rafter system has increased complexity, it allows you to make the attic space more spacious and practical. In addition, this design is excellent for installing vertical glazing in the attic.
A roof built according to a Dutch design is still rare in our area.
- A sloping hip roof has several slopes different sizes on one slope. Thanks to their different slopes, it is possible to increase the volume of the under-roof space. Although a broken structure cannot be called simple, houses with such a roof are very common. The reason for its popularity is the opportunity to arrange additional living rooms on the upper tier. For this reason, a roof with broken slopes is often called an attic roof.
The sloping roof makes the architecture of the building somewhat heavier, but it makes it possible to arrange several living spaces in the attic space
There are also more complex structures consisting of many hips, as well as those in which a hipped roof is combined with other types of roofing systems. The design and installation of such a roof requires many years of experience and knowledge, so it is better to entrust the construction of a sophisticated roof to specialists.
Design of hip roofs
When developing a hip roof, all types of loads that will affect it are taken into account. To do this, you must first resolve several important issues:
- purpose of the attic space;
- roofing material;
- degree of atmospheric influence in the construction region.
Based on these factors, the degree of slope of the slopes and the roof area are determined, the loads are calculated and a decision is made on the design and parameters of the rafter system.
Geometric parameters of slopes
The angle of inclination of the slopes depends on the snow and wind load, therefore it varies within a very wide range - from 5 to 60 degrees. In areas with rainy weather and high snow cover, roofs with a slope of 45 to 60 degrees are erected. If the region is characterized by strong winds and minimal precipitation, then the slope can be reduced to the very minimum.
When determining the angular parameters of the roof, it is necessary to take into account what material it will be covered with:
- slate sheets, ondulin, roofing metal and rolled materials are laid on slopes with a slope of 14 to 60 degrees;
- the tiles are mounted on a surface with a degree of slope from 30 to 60 degrees;
- Roll coating is used on sloping slopes - from 5 to 18 degrees.
Having decided on the angle of the roof, it is not at all difficult to calculate at what height the ridge will be. To do this, use simple trigonometric formulas for a right triangle.
Roof area
Even the most complex hip roof consists of individual slopes that follow the contours of the simplest geometric shapes, so most often for calculations it is enough to know linear dimensions bases and angles of inclination of the hips.
To determine the square footage of the roof, it is necessary to add up the areas of the slopes of which it consists
The total roof area is calculated by summing the square footage of the individual hips. Slopes of complex configuration are divided into several simple surfaces, after which separate calculations are carried out for each of them.
The principles for calculating the geometric parameters of hipped roofs are based on calculations for simple surfaces
Load calculation
Loads acting on a hipped roof are divided into two types:
- permanent,
- periodic.
The first includes the weight of roofing materials, rafters, sheathing and other frame parts. The second is the forces exerted by precipitation and wind force. In addition, when calculating, one should take into account the payload in the form of various engineering systems and communications attached to the elements of the rafter system.
Based on SNiP, when designing a roof it is necessary to assume a snow load of 180 kg/sq.m. m. If there is a danger of snow accumulation on the roof, this parameter increases to 400–450 kg/sq. m. If the roof has a slope angle of more than 60 degrees, then the snow load can be ignored - precipitation does not linger on surfaces with such steep slopes.
The force of wind loads is much less - up to 35 kg/sq. m. If the roof slope is from 5 to 30 degrees, then the effect of the wind can be neglected.
The above parameters of atmospheric influences are average values accepted for middle zone. When performing calculations, correction factors should be used depending on the region of construction.
Calculation of the rafter system
When calculating the rafter system, the pitch of the rafters and the maximum load they can carry are determined. Based on these data, a decision is made to install braces, which help redistribute the load, and tie-downs, which protect the frame from loosening.
The main load of the hip roof falls on the diagonal rafters
The presence of hips on hipped roofs, in addition to the usual rafters, requires the installation of diagonal rafters (in other words, slanted ones) - those that are attached to the ridge and directed to the corners of the building. Their length is greater than the transverse node elements of the roof. In addition, shortened elements - sprigs - are attached to the diagonal ribs. Compared to conventional rafters, slanted legs experience a load increased by 1.5–2 times, so their cross-section is doubled, and to ensure multi-span they are supported by one or two racks.
Often, hip roofs have a complicated rafter system, which, unlike a simple hipped structure, places additional load where vertical supports are installed. This feature must be taken into account when calculating the strength of a wooden roof frame.
The laying distance of the rafters is called a step and is determined based on the length rafter leg and sections of the lumber used. It is most convenient to determine this parameter using special tables, one of which is given below.
Table: dependence of the cross-section and pitch of rafters on their length
Manual calculations are quite labor-intensive. To reduce design time, you can use one of the online calculators to determine the parameters of hip roofs. With its help, you can determine not only geometric parameters, but also a lot of other equally important factors:
- amount of moisture and heat insulation, taking into account overlaps;
- amount of roofing material, including waste generated during cutting;
- the volume of lumber required for arranging the rafter system;
- length of overhangs, etc.
Video: using a construction calculator to calculate a roof
What materials will be needed to assemble the rafter system?
For the construction of a hip roof, timber and boards made of larch, pine and other wood are best suited coniferous species. When choosing material for construction, it is necessary to carefully reject defective boards. Fungal damage, knots and cracks reduce the strength of the boards and affect the durability of the roof. When the wood moisture content is more than 22%, the lumber is stacked in the open air and dried. It should be understood that under-dried boards can warp, and this, in turn, will lead to a violation of the geometry of the roof with possible damage to the finishing coating.
To assemble a wooden frame, a rectangular beam with a cross-section from 80x80 mm to 150x150 mm is used - the exact parameters are determined by calculation or using the table above. As an alternative, you can use a board with a section of 50x100 mm or 50x200 mm. If there is a need to strengthen the rafter leg, then paired boards are used.
For reliable fastening, as well as increasing the rigidity of the wooden frame, use steel brackets and others metal elements. Often, steel supports, rather than wooden ones, are installed under particularly loaded ridge girders. Combined frames have increased strength and reliability.
Features of the rafter system
To properly design and install hipped roof, it is necessary to understand in detail its design, as well as the features of the arrangement of hip roofs of the most common types.
The structure of the rafter system in detail
The frame of a hip roof consists of most of the same parts as a gable roof, but a more complex rafter system requires installation additional elements. Upon closer examination, the following components can be found:
All these elements can be found in any type of hip roof. The only exception is the hip roof, which does not have side rafters or ridge beams.
In wooden and frame houses, the rafter system is installed without a Mauerlat. In the first case, its functions are taken over by the outer crowns, and in the second - by the upper trim.
Types of rafter systems for hip roofs
Since the basis of the hip roof rafter system is made up of slanted rafters, when installing the roof frame, you must adhere to the following rules:
- In structures where the slanted legs experience increased load, timber of double thickness is used for their manufacture.
- The splicing of individual parts of diagonal rafters is carried out in places with maximum load (most often in their upper part) and strengthened with the help of struts and vertical posts installed at an angle of 90° to the rafter legs.
- When making slanted rafters, allowance should be made for local trimming, so the estimated length of the beam is increased by 5–10%.
- Critical connection points of slanted rafter legs must be reinforced with metal fasteners - staples, twists or perforated construction strips.
When choosing a rafter system, it is necessary to take into account the size of the building and the presence of internal supports or permanent walls. Based on specific conditions, a scheme with hanging or layered rafters is chosen.
Hanging rafter system
A hanging rafter roof structure has no centerline supports, so the bulk of the weight falls on the outer perimeter walls. This feature manifests itself in the redistribution of internal forces - the rafter system is subjected to compressive and bending loads. As for the walls, significant pushing forces are transmitted to them. To eliminate this factor, each pair of rafters is connected to each other by so-called puffs - jumpers made of wooden beam or rolled metal.
The tie can be located either at the base of the rafter legs or above. In the first case, the jumper will also act as a transverse beam, which is a good option during the construction of an attic roof. If the tightening is installed in the area of the midline or above, then it will only serve as a securing link. It should be noted that the cost of the rafter system depends on such a seemingly insignificant moment as the installation height of the tie rods. The higher the transverse jumpers are located, the larger the cross-section of all components of the wooden frame should be.
Hip roofs with layered and hanging rafters have differences between supporting elements designs
Construction with layered rafters
A hip roof with layered rafters is suitable only for those houses inner space which are divided into two equal parts by a main wall or support pillars installed to support the ceiling. In this case, the lower edge of the rafter legs rests on the mauerlat, and the middle part rests on the load-bearing partition. The presence of additional support points allows you to relieve the elements of the rafter system by removing alternating horizontal forces from them, as well as from the walls of the building. Like roof beams, rafters begin to work only in bending. A frame with layered rafters becomes more rigid and durable compared to a structure that uses unsupported rafters. And this despite the fact that in the first case you can use timber of a smaller cross-section. And this helps reduce weight wooden structure and reduces the cost of purchasing lumber.
Installation of a hip roof
The assembly of the rafter system must be carried out in a strictly defined order. This is necessary in order to correctly install and secure all structural elements of the roof.
- To redistribute the load exerted on the walls roof structure, wind and precipitation, on external walls lay the mauerlat. In individual construction, timber with a cross-section of at least 100x150 mm is used for these purposes. Anchor pins are used to secure the longitudinal beams of the structure. They must be laid in the upper rows of the masonry at the stage of wall construction. Waterproofing of the Mauerlat is carried out using two layers of roofing material, which is laid on top of the load-bearing walls.
The Mauerlat is attached to the load-bearing wall using bolts or anchors
- If it is necessary to install vertical supports, beds are laid on the load-bearing walls. Wooden pads are used to horizontally level the elements of the rafter system. In the future, this will greatly simplify the installation of racks and purlins. If capital partitions are not provided for in the building plan, then vertical supports are mounted on floor beams. To do this, they are strengthened by joining two 50x200 mm boards or using one 100x200 mm beam.
Support of vertical posts on beams is allowed only if the structure rests on a permanent pier
- Exhibit support posts. To level them, use a plumb line or laser level, after which temporary supports are installed. Metal angles and plates are used to attach the vertical support to the beam or horizontal beam.
- Purlins are laid on top of the racks. A traditional hip roof requires the installation of one purlin, which, in fact, forms the ridge. Tent structures require the installation of four purlins. As with the installation of racks, fastening is carried out using metal corners and self-tapping screws.
The ridge purlin can be attached either directly to the rafter leg or using wooden plates
- Preparing the rafters. The side rafters of simple hipped roofs are mounted in the same way as the sloping ones on gable roof. First you need to make a template. To do this, from the side of the outer support, apply a board of the same width as the rafters to the ridge. Its thickness should not exceed 25 mm - the template should be light. On this board, mark the notch necessary for reliable support and precise fit of the rafter leg to the ridge beam, as well as a cutout corresponding to the junction with the Mauerlat. The marked areas are cut out and then used for quick preparation of the rafter legs.
Making a template can reduce the time it takes to prepare rafters for installation
- By applying the manufactured sample to the purlin, it is necessary to check whether precise adjustment of the rafters is necessary. If there are gaps, cuts in the rafters are made taking into account the amendments. After all the supporting legs are ready, they are set in increments of 50–150 cm and attached to the Mauerlat and the ridge. For installation, staples are best suited, but you can also use strong metal corners.
- As already mentioned, diagonal rafters are made from spliced boards or timber of increased cross-section. To install them, you will also need a template, which is prepared in full accordance with the method described above. Since the slanted rafters are adjacent to the corner of the mauerlat on one side, and rest on the racks on the other, the cut is made at an angle of 45° to the plane.
The layout of rafters and soffits on a hip roof is carried out according to a template
- In the gaps between the sloped rafters, sprigs are attached. Their step corresponds to the distance between the rafters, and the diagonal legs and the mauerlat act as support points. The load experienced by the rafters cannot be compared with the weight that falls on the rafters, so the former can be constructed from boards 30–50 mm thick. To speed up installation, you will need a template with notches on the side of the diagonal rafters and the mauerlat, but the cutouts on half of the edges must be made in a mirror image.
Use of metal fastening elements makes the rafter system more rigid and stable
- If there is a need, fillies are attached to the rafters and frames. ends rafter elements cut along the cord.
Attaching the rafters to the Mauerlat can be done in several ways
- Strengthen the slopes and side rafters. In the first case, vertical trusses are used, and in the second, struts installed at an angle of 45° are used. They are supported on beds or beams.
- After the rafter system is assembled, a roofing pie is installed on top of it.
The rafter system is prepared for installation of roofing materials
Lathing and insulation
Before proceeding with the installation of the sheathing, a vapor barrier and, if necessary, rolled thermal insulation are laid on top of the rafters. The top layer of insulation is covered with a waterproofing film, which is mounted with an overlap of 10–20 mm wide and secured to the beam with a construction stapler. After this, counter battens are nailed to the rafters. If the roofing pie is installed without insulation, then a vapor barrier is not required - a layer of moisture-resistant material will be sufficient.
Of course, additional slats will not be needed in this case, since the boards supporting the roof will be attached directly to the frames and rafter legs.
- Depending on the type of roofing material, one of two types of sheathing is used on hip roofs:
- continuous;
sparse. The first one is most often equipped for soft roof and only in some cases - for arranging the attic space. This type of lathing is made from boards with a width of 100 to 200 mm and a thickness of at least 20–25 mm. Installation is carried out without gaps. In addition, the use of plywood sheets and OSB boards . Their advantage is an extremely flat surface that allows you to lay roofing material With minimal costs
time and effort. Under a soft roof they equip continuous sheathing
from OSB, plywood or boards packed without gaps
For sparse sheathing, use the same boards as in the first case, but install them with a gap. Since this type of base is used for laying slate, corrugated sheets, metal tiles and roofing iron, the distance between individual boards must take into account the characteristics of the roofing material.
The sheathing is fastened with nails, the length of which is equal to triple the thickness of the boards. If self-tapping screws are used for fixation, then you can use a shorter threaded fastener with a length corresponding to double the thickness of the lumber.
The wooden base of the roofing pie is mounted from the bottom up, with the first board of each slope aligned parallel to the mauerlat. First, the sheathing is stuffed on the hips, after which the protruding edges are cut off with a hacksaw flush with the diagonal ribs. Next, they begin to fasten the lumber on the main slopes, releasing the edges of the boards beyond the sloped rafters. After this, the ends of the boards are sawed down similarly to the first case.
Video: building a hip roof with your own hands
Typical hip roof design
When building a simple hip roof, you can use a standard project developed by specialists. Project documentation includes:
- technological map;
- roof plan;
- rafter system diagrams;
- drawings of sections and corner connections;
- statement and specification with a complete list of materials used.
As a sample, below is documentation for a typical hip roof design for a house with an area of 155 square meters. m.
Gallery: drawings and diagrams of a hipped roof
The drawing indicates exact dimensions all roof elements At the base roof truss triangles lie Rafters of trapezoidal slopes rest on the long load-bearing walls of the building Tie-downs are installed at the base of the rafters and act as floor beams When creating a project, it is necessary to take into account the length of the rafters, their pitch, the recommended cross-section of beams or boards To fasten the rafters, wooden and hardware Fastenings allow you to transfer the load from one element of the system to another
Despite the apparent complexity of a hipped roof, building it with your own hands is not much more difficult than a gable structure. It is only important to carefully understand the purpose of the individual elements and the principles of constructing the rafter system. Otherwise, the reliability and durability of the roof will still depend on adherence to technology and careful installation. As for the additional difficulties and costs, they will be repaid with complete satisfaction from the work, which will make the building brighter and more attractive.