Seal the front door with your own hands. Common options for seals, specific use for wooden doors, self-installation

The level of protection of the house from street noise and cold is affected not only by the quality of the entrance doors, but also by the material that helps them fit tightly to the frame. The absence of cracks creates a good seal, preventing drafts from spreading: in this case, sounds and smells from the outside will not be able to penetrate inside the house.

The classification of materials for door seals is carried out according to some basic characteristics. We are talking primarily about the size, material of manufacture and types of doors for which this seal was developed.

For example, wooden and iron doors are decorated with different types of tapes, although they are very similar in appearance. To choose the right equipment for your door, it is important to navigate this classification.

Helpful information:

Sealing strips by door type

For each individual variety, its own seal was developed.

Input

Most often, entrance doors are finished with a dense material in the shape of a tube, inside of which there is a void. The significant thickness and bubble nature of the material create a reliable fit of the door to the frame. How to choose reliable and warm doors to your home.

Of particular interest is the internal structure of these rubber bands for insulating doors. Thanks to the presence of internal pores, a multiple increase in the insulating effect is achieved. Most often, the entrance door seal has a self-adhesive base, which makes its installation very quick.

On the other hand, over time, the glue loses its characteristics, and the strips begin to lag around the perimeter. You can.

Interior

The seal for interior doors is not assigned the function of protecting the room from outside cold, as in the previous case.

This allows you to make it more aesthetically pleasing by using more elastic and soft silicone instead of dense rubber. The installation method for these products may differ, which will be discussed below.

If you decide to change the doors during the renovation process, be sure to read.

Plastic

This group of materials is characterized high speed installation and dismantling. Grooves are usually applied to plastic doors along the line of contact with the frame, so the seals are given a special shape that follows the configuration of these grooves. Thanks to the presence of walls on the sides of the fixation point, the sealing strip receives additional protection from external aggressive influences. The seal for plastic doors is not afraid of moisture and temperature changes, so it can be used both outdoors and on interior doors without much difference. It is important to keep in mind that this rubber compressor was designed specifically for plastic doors with grooves, so it is not recommended to seal other types of doors with it. In addition, different manufacturers complete their plastic doors with an individual seal: this should also be clarified when selecting a suitable material.

Glass

When making a seal for glass doors Silicone is used, equipped with a special profiled notch. When installing the strip, you must first wet the area where it will be placed: this will make the connection as strong as possible. Since the design of glass doors can be very different, therefore, a different seal is developed for each of them.

What is door insulation made of?

In order to choose the most suitable door seals for your home, you should also be aware of the materials used to make them.

Rubber

Most often, entrance doors are equipped with a rubber seal. Moreover, the manufacturing material is not simple rubber, but its modified varieties that can withstand the most extreme operating conditions, including severe frost and heat. In addition to the draft.

Silicone

The performance characteristics of silicone products are slightly lower than those of rubber products. This is explained by the fact that it is not possible to provide silicone with additional resistance to aggressive external influences even by introducing appropriate additives into its composition. For this reason, silicone earbuds are mainly produced for wooden doors interior type, which are operated in comfortable conditions.

Foam rubber

It is the material used to manufacture the cheapest door insulation, which fails within one year. The reason for this may be temperature fluctuations, dirt and moisture, which provoke crumbling and disintegration of the foam rubber. The material gradually loses its original volume, which affects the functionality of products made from it.

Magnet

An innovative development, which is mainly used to complete expensive metal doors. The average person is familiar with magnetic seals from household refrigerators And freezers, in which permanent magnets around the perimeter of the doors are attracted by attractive poles. Most often, metal doors are equipped with three-circuit magnetic seals. The location of the two circuits is the door leaf itself, while the third is mounted on the door frame. The main disadvantage of such products is the rather high pressing density, which a child or child will not always be able to cope with. old man. If the action of the magnets is weakened, then proper tightness and sound insulation will not be ensured.

Advantages of a magnetic door seal

The soft filler is made of thermoplastic elastomer, which has the following advantages:

• Significant service life.
• Stable tolerance of sudden temperature fluctuations (from -65 to +95 degrees).
• Possibility of recycling after loss of performance.

Felt

Usually they are formed with a felt seal. Such tapes cannot provide special protection from noise and cold. They are used exclusively to prevent dust from entering the cabinet or room.

Basic methods for installing door seals

When starting to install a door seal, the first step is to find out what type of product you are dealing with. This will allow you to choose the most the best way how to glue the seal. The most common types of rubber seals are grooved and self-adhesive.

Groove seals

The installation of this material is very simple, which is why it is most often used when repairing doors yourself. The most difficult part of installing the door seal into the groove is finishing the corner areas. Beginners are advised to use careful trimming of the material. More experienced users achieve continuous installation, without joining areas. The latter option is more advantageous, since the level of door sealing in this case is much higher. However, to implement it you will need to show some skill. Door seals at the bottom are equipped with a special edge on which there is a brush: this structure of the material facilitates fairly quick installation into the groove cavity.

While laying both rubber and silicone seals, it is important to avoid even minimal tension on the tape. Otherwise, unacceptable stress will form inside the sealing layer, which will affect its performance qualities. No matter how high-quality the silicone or rubber is, they will gradually stretch, losing their original volume and elasticity. Experienced craftsmen, when laying the seal in the groove, try to slightly compress it, which significantly extends the service life of the door insulation. Trimming of excess parts is carried out upon completion of installation. It is more convenient if only one edge of the rubber or silicone tape is left for trimming: in this case, the remaining segment is longer and can be used to insulate another door.

Self-adhesive seal

Laying such material is also not particularly difficult, although there are some useful tips should be taken into account. In order for the self-adhesive rubber seal to stick to the seat efficiently and for a long time, it should be pre-prepared. This procedure includes several steps. Firstly, all dirt must be removed from the surface of the door: this is done not only along a narrow installation area, but by some expansion to the sides. For these purposes, soapy water or detergent is usually used.

Preparation will require special care wooden surface. You should not moisten it too much - just wipe thoroughly with a damp cloth. If the seat has roughness, protrusions and irregularities, they must be eliminated. In this case, the operating technology also depends on the surface material. For example, wood can be lightly sanded and puttied; For metal or plastic surfaces, gentle sanding will be sufficient. Individual protrusions can be carefully removed with a chisel or sandpaper. After the sealing area has been cleaned and washed, it should be completely dry. Sometimes, if the work is carried out in a confined space, or when it is necessary to speed up the process, a regular hairdryer is used for drying.

Before gluing the seal to the door, it must be degreased. When choosing a degreasing agent, it is important to consider the surface material. Most often, this procedure is carried out with white spirit, acetone or regular alcohol. However, it should be understood that all of these products are toxic and explosive, and you should work with them very carefully. It is better if it is possible to ventilate the premises well after application.

Helpful advice: in cases where the seal is installed where people are present at the time, it is better to use a special low-toxic emulsion or an aqueous alkaline solution for degreasing.

As for the actual installation of the self-adhesive seal, this procedure is not particularly difficult. All you have to do is release bottom part material from the protective film, and carefully lay it along the edge of the door. It is more convenient to remove the entire film not at once, but in 10-15 cm segments, immediately installing the freed area on the seat. At the same time, it must be pressed tightly against the surface of the door, achieving high-quality adhesion. A similar algorithm of actions is maintained throughout the entire procedure. It is more convenient to start work from the top, and when you reach the bottom edge of the door leaf, cut the rubber tape using a sharp knife or scissors.

During the cold season, some of the heat can seep through the cracks and gaps of windows and doors that do not close tightly. Heat loss can reach up to 20%, and the main reason for this is, first of all, insufficient or poor-quality insulation, which leads to the occurrence of drafts. This problem is especially acute for owners of their own houses, bathhouses, and apartments on the lower floors.

Due to frequent use, even an initially hermetically sealed door frame, be it wooden or metal, ceases to provide protection from the cold. But completely replacing a door is a rather expensive procedure. It is much easier to understand the causes of drafts and eliminate them with your own hands.

What types of doors are there?

Modern manufacturers offer consumers a wide range of different entrance doors, mainly from the following materials:

• metal;
• wood;
• plastic;
• glass;
• combined.

Metal doors are the warmest, since several layers of thermal insulation materials are already laid inside, which reduces additional insulation to a minimum. However, a significant drawback of these doors lies in their high cost.

Modern wooden doors can satisfy any requests, needs and purposes; they are more popular and affordable.

Wooden entrance doors are presented in the following assortment:

Important! When choosing a wooden door, from the point of view of the best thermal insulation properties, preference should be given to a leaf made from solid wood. Such doors are strong, durable, provide good protection from the cold, but require additional installation costs associated with thermal insulation of the door frame and the door itself.

As for plastic doors, plastic blocks are the most frost-resistant. When insulating such a door, you will have to resort to the help of professional craftsmen.

A good option for keeping heat in the house is to install a second door, which will create an air cushion and prevent heat loss.

When starting to insulate yourself, you need to carefully inspect all the components. The main elements of a wooden door are as follows:

• door leaf;
• box;
• wooden platbands;
• hinges, handles, locks and others decorative elements and accessories.

Preventing door condition

Subsequent operation depends on the condition of all structural elements. But to care for your door, it is recommended to regularly carry out a number of preventive measures:

Materials required for work

It is important to remember that the final result of the work largely depends on the quality of the selected materials.

Sealing elements

This group includes materials used to create a hermetically sealed connection between the door leaf and the frame, preventing the entry of moisture, cold air, and dampness into the room. Seals are available in one, two or three layers. There are also sealing elements with an adhesive base, installed using self-tapping screws or requiring a special clamping strip.

Thermal insulation

Foam rubber, batting, technical or mineral wool, synthetic winterizer, expanded polystyrene or polyethylene foam are most often used as heat-insulating materials. However, some previously used materials quickly become unusable, losing their properties due to the swelling of the fibers under the influence of atmospheric humidity.

Recently popular synthetic insulation materials are more durable, reliable, less hygroscopic and have good thermal conductivity.

Most often decorative finishing doors are produced using durable types fabrics specially designed for construction work. As a rule, this is synthetic leather or its substitutes, such as leatherette. Natural materials are used extremely rarely due to their high cost, but they are more elastic, durable and advantageous as a finishing element.

The end result will look more aesthetically pleasing if you use decorative nails for the work.

The following tools and materials may also be required:

• fishing line or wire;
• screwdriver and screws;
• cutter for making a groove for the seal;
• to eliminate cracks and gaps between the wall and the door frame, you will need polyurethane foam;
• furniture stapler with staples;
• roulette;
• building level.

Insulation. Step-by-step instruction

Step 1. Elimination of wear and tear

When starting thermal insulation work, the first step is to eliminate visible and actual signs of wear, as well as minor defects discovered during the inspection of the door and frame. Without the troubleshooting step, the insulation will be of poor quality.

If there is sagging or distortion of the door leaf, and the door itself closes poorly and squeaks, you should adjust the hinges (by tightening the fastening screws) or replace them with new ones.

If adjusting the hinges does not help, the gap between the door and the frame remains significant, and the sagging of the door leaf makes it difficult to open the door, you can lightly plan the problem areas door array plane.

The cracks and gaps between the doorway and the wall must be filled with foam around the entire perimeter, cutting off excess material after drying. Or remove the old foam and re-seal.

When planning to replace fittings (eyes, door handles, locks), everything necessary should be prepared in advance.

Step 2. Installation of sealing elements

There are a number of requirements for door seals, the main one of which is the ability to withstand loads during constant use. Seals are made from various materials.

Foam rubber. Such self-adhesive seals are not durable, quickly become unusable, but are low in cost.

Rubber. A popular version of this seal is a rubber tape with an adhesive backing. However, it is permissible to seal the door with strips of rubber attached to the doorway universal glue or silicone sealant, or just nails.

Felt. Felt strips are nailed around the perimeter of the box; the thickness of the strip is determined individually in each specific case.

Silicone and plastic. Sealing products made from these materials are more elastic and durable, and are also resistant to deformation and cracking. In addition, silicone seals provide excellent sealing.

The seal is placed around the entire perimeter of the door frame. The length of the required material is determined by measurements using a tape measure. The width is determined by the distance between the door leaf and the frame.

The thickness of the insulation is calculated visually or using plasticine - for this, a piece of plasticine mass is glued to the door frame, after which the door is closed. If the thickness of the factory material exceeds the calculated one, then the seal is laid in the groove and pressed with a construction angle or a clamping bar, which will provide a stronger fixation and extend the service life of the seal.

Step 3. Upholstery

This stage of work is carried out when the thickness of the canvas itself is insufficient to protect the room from the cold. The combination of decorative material and insulation is the most reliable and durable thermal insulation.

Door trim, diagram

As a rule, insulation with all materials is performed in the same way.

The door leaf is removed from the hinges and placed horizontally on a flat surface. All fittings are temporarily removed (if necessary, old elements can be replaced with new ones).

How to knock down a door

The decorating material is cut out according to the measurements of the canvas, plus a hem allowance of 5-7 cm. One piece for each side, if insulation will be done on both sides. Additionally, strips 10-12 cm wide are cut out (two along the width and two along the length of the door leaf).

If the quality of the door leaf is unsatisfactory, you can reinforce it with a sheet of galvanized iron.

The prepared strips are nailed to the door leaf face down so that at least 3/4 of the width extends beyond the door.

The insulation is cut to the size of the door and fixed on its surface with a furniture stapler or glue. The number of insulation layers is determined arbitrarily, but the most advantageous will be a combination of several types. Excess insulation protruding beyond the strips of upholstery material is cut off. The recommended thickness of the insulating layer is at least 20 mm.

From foam rubber or the same thermal insulation material bundles of sufficient thickness are twisted, placed on strips of upholstery material and nailed to the door leaf. The resulting rollers are connected to each other at the corners. When closing the door, they will have to cover the junction of the door and the frame, as well as at least half of the door threshold.

The upholstery material is rolled out over the surface of the canvas, the edges are folded inward and secured with decorative nails. It is important that the folded edge overlaps a small part of the roller with insulation.

If desired, you can stitch the upholstery fabric with decorative nails over the entire area. There are many suitable geometric designs, some of which require fishing line or thin wire.

The door peephole, handle and other fittings are installed, after which the door is installed in place.

As a rule, iron doors are already equipped with an inner layer of heat-insulating material, but in cases where this is not enough, the leaf can be additionally insulated. To do this, you will need to remove the inner lining and add layers of the selected insulation between the niche stiffening ribs (or replace it completely), securing it with liquid nails or other glue. The most effective are mineral wool, foaming resins or polystyrene foam and its derivatives. After the glue has dried, the sheathing is returned to its place and secured.

It would also be useful to insulate the door frame with a wide rubber seal, which minimizes the possibility of cold bridges.

It happens that a metal door is a non-demountable structure, this significantly complicates the insulation process. In this case, using self-tapping screws, it is necessary to secure wooden blocks around the perimeter of the door, equal in height to the thickness of the heat-insulating material, and lay the resulting compartments with a layer of insulation, covering the entire door structure with a sheet of plywood or fiberboard on top.

In some cases, it is possible to “inject” foam insulation into a hollow door through a peephole or lock/door handle hole.

Plastic and combined doors are insulated by gluing a sealing tape around the perimeter of the frame.

Thermal insulation of a door is a simple process, in which a strict sequence of actions and accuracy of the work performed are important.

It is important to always keep warm in any room, especially during cold seasons. Therefore, it is advisable to insulate not only windows, but also doors, through which cold, wind and dust penetrate into the room no less, if not more. For this purpose, a variety of door seals are produced, which ensure maximum heat retention in a house, apartment, office, or public institution.

Purpose

Door seals are designed to eliminate cracks and gaps that allow cold air and winds to enter the room. It is impossible to live without them in a private house with doors opening directly onto the street. The door structure (especially if it is wooden or made of a similar material) tends to dry out or, conversely, absorbs a large amount of moisture during rains and dampness. Deformation of door frames creates conditions when the door cannot fit tightly to the jamb. It must either be replaced, which, of course, is not always possible, or use a life-saving inexpensive option in the form of a good seal that will extend the life of the door and help retain heat in a living or working space.

In addition, there is another function of the seal - shock absorption, which is not directly related to the heat-saving function, but provides a softer contact of the door with the jamb, preventing loud impacts and unnecessary squeaking.

Requirements

Of course, in order to perform its main function, the seal must be good quality.

Therefore, it must have the following properties:

• durable materials of manufacture - the service life of the sealing tape depends on them. If the tape is not of very good quality, it will quickly begin to lag behind the door and will simply be unusable;
• good insulation must adhere tightly to the surrounding surfaces. This provides an obstacle to the penetration of cold air, winds and street dust into the room;
• resistance to constant mechanical stress is also a necessary quality, because when opening and closing doors, as well as exposure to any external factors, poor quality materials will undergo rapid wear;
• the material should not only be durable, but also bend well and not tear when trying to close it door gaps and cracks, be as soft as possible in order to minimize the sound of the door hitting its frame.

Kinds

All types door seals are produced in the form of a tape, which has different lengths, widths, thicknesses and colors depending on the size of the cracks and gaps, as well as the color of a particular door in order to maintain aesthetics. The types of seal profiles may be different. A profile is a form of insulation that can have a cavity inside the material, the task of which is to eliminate gaps and seal cracks different sizes and forms. When compressed, good insulation does not suffer any damage. High-quality polyvinyl chloride (PVC) or polyurethane have this property. Profile shapes can be in the form of letters of the English alphabet: P, V, C, E, O and other configurations.

Sealing tape made from foam rubber is the most popular and inexpensive type. A self-adhesive film is attached to the foam rubber; its thickness may vary. Methods for attaching foam tape vary depending on the material from which the door frame is made. If it is wooden, the foam rubber is fixed to it with wallpaper nails, and if the entrance structure is metal, you can use strong glue, which is suitable for working with metal. Among the disadvantages of foam rubber tape, it should be noted that it is not wear-resistant and does not last long. Also, foam rubber due to its porosity (especially if we're talking about about wide-width tapes) has the ability to let cold air through, so it is best to use it as insulation not for entrance doors, but for interior doors.

Tubular seal It is a thick, dense tourniquet, inside of which there is a rather large cavity. It is thanks to the strength of the material in combination with the internal cavity that the door adheres to the jamb without cracks and unnecessary gaps. The tubular seal is made of rubber, which has a porous structure, which provides heat conservation and sound insulation. It is often self-adhesive, which makes it easy to install. Of course, any “self-adhesive” will simply fall off over time, but usually it lasts from one to several seasons, and then it can just as easily be replaced with another. Most often, rubber is used for doors facing the street.

Groove seals are made specifically for plastic doors of various designs and are a product made of softer rubber than a thick tubular seal. Installation of such a product is more than simple: you just need to carefully insert it into the door grooves. The groove method ensures minimal impact of external factors on the seal itself and lasts much longer, withstanding bad weather and sudden temperature changes. This type of insulation can only be used for plastic doors. Unfortunately, it is not suitable for other door designs. By the way, an interesting fact that all owners of plastic doors should take into account is that each manufacturing company, in addition to selling and installing doors, also produces seals, which can be immediately purchased as an additional and useful accessory.

Glass seal also represents separate species seals designed specifically for glass door elements of different sizes. Their profile has an individual cross-section, and the material used is flexible and soft silicone. It is enough to simply moisten such material in water, and then immediately install it in the desired place on the door. This type of silicone is distinguished by the fact that after soaking, after a certain amount of time, it firmly sticks to glass surfaces and does not “come off”, unlike simple seals on a self-adhesive base.

Magnetic seals are produced in the form of a frame that follows the door contours with millimeter precision. They are used for metal doors and are recommended by experts as the highest quality and most durable. Each of them has two components: an insert with a magnet and a soft material. Such a seal is not cheap, and when installing it, you should be careful certain rules, however, wear resistance and high quality may contribute to its acquisition.

Magnetic products have high degree tightness and shock absorption, so the door will not make noise when opening and closing, and the attraction of the door to the jamb will ensure the complete absence of cracks and gaps. The only downside may be that due to magnetic attraction, you will sometimes have to apply additional physical force to open the door. A special place among seals is occupied by the threshold seal, the purpose of which is not only to insulate the bottom of the doors, but also to increase the load that the dense rubber or caoutchouc from which it is made can withstand. When purchasing such an idea, you need to pay special attention to the quality of the rubber.

Contour seal good for its ease of use: it is attached to the door along its perimeter. If there is a special groove, you can insert it there, or you can simply lay it along the edge if there is no gap or groove. Contour insulation is often made of rubber and foam rubber. For rooms with a high fire hazard, a thermally expanding type of insulation is often used. Visually, it looks like the most ordinary one, but with a sharp increase in temperature during fire and smoke, it tends to immediately expand and foam. This prevents air from entering the room and the flame can go out faster.

Also for fire doors triple was developed, or three-circuit type of seal, providing additional sound and noise insulation effect. The seal, consisting of three layers (or contours), can be used in both apartments and offices to optimally maintain comfort and safety. Additional rigid ribs make the door leaf much thicker and increase its weight, so it is important to ensure that the door frame and its fittings are as strong as possible. This type of insulation is perhaps the best at retaining heat when used for entrance doors.

Liquid insulation option used for metal entrance doors and requires certain conditions of use. It is available in metal cans and is applied to the required areas by spraying. Essentially, it is liquid foam rubber, which, when applied under gas pressure, quickly hardens, providing good thermal insulation properties. His peculiarity is that he does not like places with increased level humidity. Also, when spraying, a certain skill is required in order to apply it as accurately as possible so that the door does not acquire unnecessary cosmetic defects.

Liquid insulation materials are made from neutralized chemical compounds and are absolutely safe for humans and animals.

Pile or fleecy types insulation materials have been known to many people since childhood, mainly because their main representative to this day is felt. At the present stage, there are also synthetic analogues of fleecy insulation, but since felt is made from pure wool, despite its certain features (in particular, it is not so easy to attach it to doors), this is still its undeniable advantage. There are different types of felt that have a specific designation, but any option is suitable for doors, the main thing is to cut the material correctly, having made the necessary measurements before doing so.

Synthetic pile materials are often popular thin pile tape on an adhesive basis. Its task is to prevent dust from entering the room. It is rarely used as a door seal, but it is often used for installation on sliding wardrobe doors.

There is also the most expensive, but at the same time reliable TEP seal, in the production of which thermoplastic elastomers are used. These materials are highly wear-resistant, and therefore manufacturers claim that they can last from 15 to 20 years without replacement. High-tech flexible plastic can withstand extremely low temperatures and provides excellent thermal insulation even in temperatures below 50 degrees. In addition to its high cost, such a seal is characterized by a certain complexity during its installation, but if all conditions are met, its price will justify itself very quickly.

Dimensions

Seals come in different sizes: thin, thick, wide. Dimensions are selected based on the size of the gap or gap. When the gap width is 1-4 mm, a rectangular profile is used, and the material can be PVC, foam rubber or polyethylene. For smaller gaps - up to 3 mm, a C-profile sealant, as well as K or E, is suitable. P- and V-profile products cover holes from 3 to 5 mm. Seals with wide cavities inside O and D are intended primarily for entrance doors and are installed in the gaps between the door and the jamb, the dimensions of which can be up to 7 mm.

These products are usually produced in large rolls. The footage may vary depending on the manufacturer and type sealing material. When purchasing, you should be guided by the fact that for one entrance door you need to purchase from 5 to 6 meters of insulation. A little less may be spent on interior doors, but it is better to always take it with a small reserve: it will never be superfluous in the household, and if suddenly any part of the sealing tape wears out, it can always be replaced.

If you need to seal the gap between the door leaf and the jamb, the size of the gap can be removed very simply: you need to insert a piece of plasticine wrapped in plastic film between them. You will get an impression that will help you correctly determine the required width of the seal.

Materials

Foam seal is one of the most popular and simplest. It has a self-adhesive backing that makes it easy to attach to the door. The thickness and texture of the tape may vary. Foam rubber is nailed to wooden door structures with wallpaper nails, and if the front door is made of metal, you can fix the foam rubber with a special glue designed for working with metal. The advantage of foam rubber has always been its low cost and availability for everyone, but it is known that its service life ends very quickly: often foam rubber insulation is barely enough for one season, and in particularly unfavorable weather conditions it can wear out much earlier. Of course, you can always buy it with a reserve, but these features should be kept in mind when purchasing.

Rubber insulation is rightly called universal, because it is used to eliminate gaps in both interior and entrance doors. You can work with it to insulate doors made of wood, chipboard and any metal. It comes in two types: either adhesive-based or designed for installation in a door profile specially prepared for it. As you know, there are door models that are produced with inserts designed to install a future seal.

The undoubted advantage of rubber seals is their wide range: they are available in the form of bundles various diameters or tubular products with a cavity inside. Along with its low cost, rubber has excellent sealing properties. When purchasing, it is very important to pay attention to its expiration date, since rubber loses its elasticity over time.

Silicone is similar to rubber, but it is softer, more flexible, and quickly breaks and wears out due to constant mechanical impact. In addition, after a while it acquires unnecessary stickiness, which is also an inconvenience. However, it also has its obvious advantages: silicone is very light and aesthetically pleasing appearance, and in addition is considered environmentally friendly safe material. Therefore, it is most often used for insulating doors in preschool institutions, schools, hospitals and clinics, and ease of use always ensures the absence of serious technical problems if it needs to be replaced.

The felt seal is certainly familiar to everyone. Along with foam rubber, it is the most popular and well-known material that has been widely used in Soviet time. Felt is no less popular in use today, and even against the backdrop of modern high-tech materials, it still has its obvious advantages. Now felt is easy to install and affordable when you compare its cost with TEP seals.

The main advantage of felt is its high wear resistance during operation. This natural and durable material is able to withstand harsh weather conditions and not wear out over a long period of time, especially if the installation was carried out correctly and conscientiously. Due to the fact that real felt is still made from pure wool, its internal structure does not deteriorate over time, unlike synthetic types of seals, and it can last for years without losing its original qualities. Felt is very dense, it perfectly absorbs sounds, retains heat excellently and, contrary to popular belief, is a fireproof material precisely because of the density of its structure.

Previously, felt was very widely used to insulate any doors and even windows. However, it has several features due to which many consumers still prefer more modern types of materials. Since it is still produced from natural wool, following centuries-old traditions using complex technologies, its price is often quite high. In addition, the process of installing felt on a door is not easy, and the craftsman should have certain skills in order to do everything as correctly and accurately as possible. First of all, you will need to cut out felt strips from sheet material yourself, while other types of seals are already sold in ready-made form and come in mortise versions that do not require special preparation.

Colors

At the present stage, you can choose not only a window or door, but also insulation for it to suit every taste and color. The color range of seals made of silicone, PVC and rubber is not limited: the white seal is ideal for plastic doors of the same color, and the black rubber material will become a reliable protector from the cold and extraneous sounds if you attach it to the front door. Classic black and white colors have their own specific scope of application: it is clear that black seals are better suited for massive doors made of iron or any other metal, and white ones can hide cosmetic defects and gaps in interior doors.

For colored metal-plastic doors, multi-colored seals are provided, which, as already mentioned, can always be purchased from the same manufacturers that produce doors. Transparent silicone types are suitable for those door installers who want the material used to be as invisible as possible on the surface and at the same time perform its main functions.

Manufacturers

The leading manufacturer of expensive but reliable seals is Gasket LLC is a Russian company specializing specifically in thermoplastic elastomers. The assortment includes not only ready-made seals: at the customer’s request, we can take measurements and provide the product of any non-standard sizes, taking into account the features of a particular door design.

Volzhsky RTI plant Since Soviet times, it has been producing rubber products based on organosilicon. Now this plant produces rubber door insulation of different sizes and profiles, intended for wide consumption. The quality of rubber is high, such materials last a long time, and their price is very reasonable.

LLC PKF "Kazpolymer"- an enterprise located in Kazan and engaged in the production of all ranges of PVC and plastic seals. The range includes insulation for both entrance and interior doors, as well as materials that can be used to eliminate cracks not only in doors, but also in furniture, both new and old.

Firm "Bars-profile" from St. Petersburg has long been engaged in the production of various seals from wear-resistant PVC materials for doors of any type. The company primarily specializes in European-style insulation for both doors and windows, producing products of virtually any color and profile, already prepared in advance for doors different types. This company operates in full compliance with quality requirements according to GOST.

Kazan company "Polinor" specializes in paint and varnish materials and products for construction, but it is the company that produces high-quality liquid sealant for metal entrance doors with the same name. It is environmentally friendly and easy to use: in order to apply it correctly in the right place, all you need to do is read the instructions carefully.

Which to choose?

Before purchasing, it doesn’t hurt to test the seal yourself to determine its quality. To do this, you just need to lightly press on it. If the quality is good, then the material returns to its previous shape after a few seconds, and if it is bad, it will remain in a “compressed” position or straighten out, but with traces of obvious deformation. It is not recommended to purchase such a seal, and you should not look at the fact that it can be cheap: it will wear out very quickly or break upon contact with the door structure, unable to withstand constant mechanical stress.

For the entrance door, as a rule, dense rubber seals are used, having both a tubular and rectangular shape, depending on the size of the cracks and the “age” of the door. If we are talking about a metal solid structure of a door frame, it can be insulated with liquid material by carefully spraying it from a bottle. Magnetic insulation is ideal for steel and iron doors - they will ensure maximum tight closure, but will make the already weighty structure somewhat heavier. Magnetic insulation, as well as TEP options, will serve for a long time when attached to movable pendulum structures.

External and street doors can be insulated with felt, of course, by inviting experienced craftsman and taking into account all the necessary costs associated with the material and the work process itself. Also, magnetic insulation (if we are talking about external metal doors) will be an excellent and less energy-consuming option. It should be borne in mind that felt can be used to insulate door vestibules; its dimensions, due to the specifics of the material, can be “adjusted” as work progresses.

In a log house, special care should be taken about fire safety, so for any wooden door (made of oak or other wood material), a good alternative would be to use thermally expanding insulation, which, in the event of a fire hazard, will prevent oxygen from entering the room, which can prevent the rapid spread of fire.

As for interior doors in general (including sliding and compartment doors), in this case you can use seals of a more aesthetic appearance, made of soft silicone or plastic of the appropriate color. Since we are talking about moving structures, it would be better, in addition to the adhesive base available for the seals, to additionally secure it with wood glue or chipboard, depending on the material from which the door is made.

By the way, to prevent the accumulation of dust and dirt in sliding cassette-type door structures, a fluffy tape on a self-adhesive basis, which is not very popular among door seals, is ideal, which is used to eliminate small cracks in wardrobes, chests of drawers and other furniture.

For a balcony door, narrow rubber insulation with an adhesive backing is usually used, and if you still want to save money, you can also use foam rubber. If the balcony door is part of a double-glazed window, it will not be difficult to install any plastic seal on it. If the balcony door is old, wooden, with many cracks and gaps, wide strips of felt can be secured around the perimeter of the door, following the size of the gaps, and small gaps can be eliminated using specially cut felt gaskets.

The sealing tape has not only the function of protecting the home from drafts. In the fight against extraneous sounds coming from the street, the seal can also play an important role. When choosing, you should pay attention to several aspects: types of seals, the materials from which they are made, and also use tricks that will help you choose the right door insulation.

Functions

The most important function of the seal is protection from drafts. If a device cannot cope with this task, it is a priori of insufficient quality. This is especially true for entrance doors: thermal insulation in this case is extremely important, and only a sufficient level of insulation can ensure it. An important thermal insulation function “works” in both directions, simultaneously protecting the apartment from cold wind from the street or from the entrance and preventing heat from escaping from the home. It is estimated that unsealed doors release up to 40% of all heat generated heating devices. Heating prices are currently quite high, so no one wants to waste precious heat.

Speaking about thermal insulation, one cannot fail to mention that a number of products can withstand significant temperature fluctuations. The amplitude can vary from -65 to +95 degrees Celsius. Thus, by installing high-quality insulation on the front door, you don’t have to worry about it cracking in summer or winter.

Another advantage of the seal is its noise-insulating properties. They are inherent in both metal water doors and interior doors. It happens that the front door opens right next to a road or a playground, and the insufficient level of sound insulation does not allow residents to feel comfortable enough, because annoying sounds There's a lot of interference from the street. If the rooms are not well isolated from each other, then another problem arises: the impossibility of everyone doing their own thing without the risk of disturbing the other. Good sound insulation makes situations comfortable when, for example, they play the piano in one room and read in another.

Shock absorption properties are another important factor. Everyone has encountered a situation where in the summer, due to open windows Drafts move through the house, and the doors close with a strong bang, disturbing not only the residents of the house, but also their neighbors. The sealing tape conceals unpleasant sound, preventing the creation of annoying slams, and also extending the life of the door and door frame (due to sharp slamming, they wear out faster).

The seal protects the house well from unnecessary odors or smoke. For example, something may burn in the kitchen. No one wants the “aroma” of burning to instantly spread throughout all the rooms, so insulation will help keep the smell out only in the kitchen. The same can be said about the door to the bathroom: it is better to leave wet steam directly within the bathroom and not let it out into the hallway or corridor.

Thus, the main property that a door seal has is sealing the door leaf. In the Russian climate, this property of the door is extremely important due to strong temperature changes on the streets. Moreover, you should carefully consider the choice of product if you live in a large, noisy city, because many cities are very busy both during the day and at night. It is for such “sleepless” cities that doors with seals for enhanced sound insulation are well suited. When choosing a door to the kitchen, you also need to make it as airtight as possible, because it is not always appropriate and pleasant when food smells are heard, for example, in the bedroom.

Kinds

Seals are classified according to several criteria. The first of these is the type of door:

• For entrance doors. The door seal for entrance doors is usually made tubular. The profile with a cavity inside completely ensures a sufficient fit of the door, contributing to complete isolation from external influences.
• For interior doors. Here completely different requirements are imposed: there is no need for such strong defense rooms from the environment, the aesthetic component comes first. In some cases, isolation is important (for example, in the bedroom), but not required.
• For plastic doors. Seals for plastic doors are placed in a separate category, since they differ significantly from seals for ordinary doors. It is necessary that the groove element reacts well with the environment. As a rule, such seals are installed on balcony doors. Please note that, as a rule, only a part that is produced by the same manufacturer as the door itself is suitable for a plastic door.
• For glass doors. The profile, which is attached directly to the glass, can be aluminum or silicone. Silicone elements must have a special cross-section; they also serve as insulation, while an aluminum profile must have a special rubber seal. A silicone glass seal is suitable for rooms with high humidity, since there is no risk that it will “come off”.

Based on materials, the following types are distinguished:

• Rubber.
• Silicone.
• Foam rubber.
• Magnet.
• Thermoplastic.
• Felt.

According to the configuration, the following types are distinguished:

• Tape. It is a soft cord with a rectangular cross-section, the width of which is approximately 9 mm.
• Tubular. Despite the fact that a tube seal is most often used for entrance doors, it boasts less sealing properties than tape models. It is a hollow tube inside, which is pressed when closing the doors, due to which there are no gaps between the door leaf and the frame.
• Groove. Made specifically for plastic doors, it is a hollow profile made of soft rubber, on one side of which there is a special brush installed in the grooves. This reduces the impact external environment on the seal and is almost completely transferred to the door leaf itself.

• Spring-loaded. Attaches to the door frame, not the door. When closing, its parts slide along the spring and close the cracks. Suitable only for fastening on perfectly flat surfaces.
• Mortise. Made for wooden doors. A small niche is specially cut out in the door frame for such a seal, which allows the door leaf to be tightly fitted in the future. A rubber profile is attached to the niche.
• Folding. Suitable for sealing folding doors, folding doors and similar structures.

Tape seals are rarely made wider than 10 mm. This is due to the fact that this width is optimal both for attaching around the perimeter of the door leaf and for the door frame. Tubular options generally have the same characteristics, regardless of what material they were made from. The size of the seal for a plastic door depends entirely on the manufacturer. It often happens that for each specific door model only one single model of seals is suitable, and there is no way to replace it with an analogue. It is recommended to pay special attention to this issue when choosing a door, whether it is possible to replace parts with those purchased from another manufacturer, otherwise during repairs you may need to replace the entire door.

A complex rubber profile remains a universal choice, suitable for both interior and entrance doors. It is available in various versions, can be made of soft rubber or more dense, the width of the profiles is traditionally 8-10 mm.

• Foam rubber It is better not to use the element for entrance doors and save it for interior structures. The fact is that foam rubber is not the most durable material and will simply not withstand the kind of use that the front door is subjected to. Foam rubber is quite cheap, but it copes well with the basic functions of the seal. It is best to use foam inserts for doors that are subject to little use, for example, to a living room.
• Unlike foam rubber, magnetic constructs are used only for entrance doors. Magnetic inserts on soft rubber profiles guarantee the best sealing fit, so protection against drafts or heat loss from the house is guaranteed. Problems can only arise with the installation of the elements; they must be selected exactly to the size of the door, otherwise the magnetic protrusion simply will not allow the door to close.

Another current option is colorless insulation. Many people believe that they are a good solution only for glass doors, however, this is far from the case. The transparent seal looks great on wooden, plastic, and metal doors, since it is practically invisible. Thus, it can be used in cases where the owner is afraid of spoiling the aesthetic appearance of the door or if, from a stylistic point of view, the use of a seal is inappropriate.

According to texture, the following types are distinguished:

• Flexible. Smooth or flexible profiles can be made of many different materials, including rubber, silicone, magnet.
• Liquid. Usually used when insulating entrance doors. It is some semblance of liquid foam rubber, which is applied to the desired areas under pressure.
• Pile. The fleecy option is very familiar to many, since felt was originally the only alternative for making door insulation. At this stage of development of the repair business, they produce a harness and tape not only from pure felt, but also from synthetic fleecy fabric.

The following options are available by location:

• Threshold. They are a good solution in cases where the door design does not provide for a threshold. Mainly done on automatic control, which allows the profile to “adjust” to the width of the gap between the door and the floor in the open or closed position.
• Contour. Outline options are the easiest to understand. They are attached along the entire perimeter of the door leaf or frame, simultaneously eliminating cracks everywhere. Most often used for entrance doors, a triple profile is used.
• Firefighter. This thermally expanding option is a substance that turns into foam when heated strongly. The foam completely seals the door, preventing the passage of smoke and preventing oxygen from reaching the source of fire.

Dimensions

Depending on the type of seal, its dimensions also vary. Also optimal size depends on the gap, how thick it is. The overall size of the door structure, as well as the specific purpose of the door, also plays a significant role. For example, entrance doors require denser and wider insulation. Flexible rectangular profiles are sold in large rolls, the length of which depends only on the manufacturer. They are perfect for eliminating narrow gaps that do not cause much discomfort to the door owners.

In some cases, rubber profiles of complex configurations are used. They are suitable for ordinary doors, and even for super-heavy armored doors. Each of the profiles has its own special shape: C, P, O and so on. Each of the shapes is designed for gaps of a certain size, however, remember that these profiles are used to insulate gaps 1-4 mm wide, but some shapes are good for insulating larger gaps.

• Profiles of shapes C, K, E are suitable for masking small gaps, the size of which does not exceed 3 mm.
• Forms P and V will do an excellent job of masking cracks up to 5 mm.
• Less commonly used are profiles O and D, which allow working with gaps up to 7 mm.

When calculating the required amount of flexible profile for door insulation, keep in mind that you will definitely need at least 5-6 m of material. It is always better to take a soft seal with a small reserve, since if suddenly part of the installed profile deteriorates, it can always be quickly changed. Rigid seals are made directly to the size of the door. As a rule, independent measurement and purchase causes certain difficulties, so it is better to turn to professionals with this issue. There is only one seal on the market that requires such delicate selection - this is the magnetic version.

Seals also vary in thickness. Soft thin profiles are selected for interior doors, while entrance doors require more impressive insulation. Thick rubber profiles, often multi-layered, have impressive dimensions compared to miniature interior samples. Thus, when selecting a seal of the required size, it is imperative to focus not only on the type of seal, but also on the functional purpose of the door being insulated, and on the size of the existing gaps. Pay attention to where the element will be attached: along the perimeter of the door frame or directly on the door leaf. Traditionally, thicker options are mounted on the door frame than on the door itself, since when installed on the door frame there is little risk that the door simply will not close.

Which seal material is better?

At the moment, there is a huge range of materials from which door seals are made. After reviewing the characteristics of each of them, you will be able to determine exactly which option is right for your case.

• Rubber The seal is perhaps the most popular today. This is due to the versatility of the material, since it tolerates temperature changes, high humidity and others. negative impacts. To prevent bacteria from multiplying at the joints or fungus from appearing, the rubber is pre-treated with a special compound that prevents the activity of bacteria and disinfects the surface.
• Silicone option is a good alternative to a rubber seal. Silicone is mainly used for insulating glass doors, since it sticks tightly to the glass, you just need to moisten it with water and let it dry. Silicone does not crack under the influence of strong temperature changes and does not come off the glass. Silicone elements are much better than rubber ones; they are suitable for rooms with high humidity, such as baths, saunas, and bathrooms.

• A special place is occupied by modern TEP seals. They are distinguished by their ability to adapt to extremely high or extreme low temperatures. Sometimes the spread can be more than 100 degrees – from -70 to +95 degrees Celsius. The European formulation of thermoplastic elastomer guarantees high reliability, long service life, good resistance to impact loads, and low profile deformation during operation.
• Felt is the most traditional and familiar material from childhood. Due to the fact that felt is still made from natural wool, it protects the room well from the cold and is on the list of leaders largely because of this. During its entire service life, felt insulation does not lose its original properties, withstands harsh Russian weather conditions well, and conserves heat. Contrary to popular belief, felt is completely fireproof because it has a very dense structure, which makes it difficult to burn.

What colors are there?

Today, seals are produced in bulk color solutions, which include not only the classic black or white colors. It is possible to choose required model under a door of any shade, be it a white balcony plastic sample or a bright door to a children's room. However, it is the white and black options that enjoy the greatest success among consumers. White models are mainly matched to plastic doors, when owners need to decorate some cosmetic flaws. Also, white seals look good on interior options, while on the front door a white element is unlikely to look appropriate.

For the front door, on the contrary, black insulation is the best solution. Black models go well with almost all types of metal doors, and this fact should be taken into account. In addition, painted rubber insulation for entrance doors performs its functions worse, since paint significantly changes the chemical composition of the material. The same can be said about plastic balcony doors. It is best to choose a black seal; it will maximally protect living rooms from drafts from the outside.

There are a great variety of color models. There are no texture swatches or patterned options, but the color choices are virtually unlimited. The entire range of brown shades is the most popular, since seals are often selected for wooden doors, and people try to choose them so that they are as invisible as possible on the door leaf and do not spoil the overall impression. Please note that they often offer to immediately equip the door with a suitable seal in the desired color for a relatively small fee. As a rule, this option is more preferable, especially if you know in advance that you need to install such a kind of plug for the cracks. The decision to buy a door with a ready-made sealing element will greatly save you the effort and time that you would spend on searching, and will not hit your budget too much.

Whatever color seal you choose, remember that general form rooms and doors individually should remain harmonious, however, it is much more important that the selected sample copes well with its main functions.

What are they fastening with?

There are several options for attaching seals. Each of them is determined by the type of fastening with which a specific option is equipped.

• Installation in groove. The profiles for fastening into the groove are equipped with a special fastening brush. For installation you will not need additional materials, however, this does not make the installation of such elements the easiest. The main difficulty that most people have when working with groove seals is fitting them to required size. It should be understood that rubber is a material that stretches easily and just as easily takes on its original shape, so when cutting or pressing directly into a groove, you cannot pull the product out; on the contrary, you should “gather” it a little. Trimming the groove seals should be done after they have been installed in place, otherwise there is a high risk of cutting off the excess, and this will inevitably negate the entire effect that was planned to be achieved through the installation of the elements.

• Self-adhesive option. Installation using self-adhesive tape is usually the least difficult. As in the previous case, the only equipment you will need is a paint knife, which, after gluing, you need to cut the insulation to the required length. The most important place in the preparatory process is occupied by surface preparation: it must not only be well cleaned of dirt and dust, but also thoroughly degreased. Traditionally, the tape is glued from left to right and from top to bottom, that is, on the sides, pasting must be started from the top corner. Gradually, little by little, the protective layer is removed from the sticky side of the seal, the tape, without stretching, is fixed on the surface, and only after it has been completely secured can a little of the adhesive tape be released again and fixed further. The step is approximately 10 cm.

• On nails or screws. This option has not been particularly popular lately, since adhesive tape or glue is a good alternative to nails. In some cases, it turns out to be impossible to install a self-adhesive sample (for example, if the surface is uneven or the seal is too heavy), and then traditional nails are remembered again. The distance between the nails is 5-7 cm; installing fasteners less frequently is not recommended, as sagging may occur, through which cold air will enter the room. When installing insulation on screws or nails, you need to act very carefully, since if the caps are not deepened enough, the door will close with difficulty or not at all. This option is mainly suitable for entrance doors, but in the case of interior doors, it is better to do without a seal at all than to choose fastening with nails.

How to choose the right door insulation?

• For a wooden door in a log house, a good solution would be to use silicone insulation. Pay attention to how easy it is to replace one model with another. Wooden houses Over time, they “settle”, and after a few years, the door will be difficult to close, and then it will be necessary to replace the existing sample.
• For wooden doors in ordinary houses, the installation of mortise seals, which are almost invisible against the background of the door, is very popular. If possible, it is recommended to choose this contour option, as it will provide you with good sound insulation, and if the door dries out, the seal can be simply removed without harm to aesthetics.
• You definitely need to select a seal that matches the tone of the door structure so that it looks as organic as possible against the general background and does not spoil the whole look.

How to attach the door seal, see the video below.

Although metal entrance doors are cast in special forms, but their surfaces are not ideal, especially the edges of the door leaf. You can observe a poor fit to the box, slight distortions on different sides, and all this can lead to the penetration of cold air, unnecessary noise and even unpleasant odors.

To rid a metal door of these shortcomings, it needs to be pressed tightly against the jamb, and in this case a special seal will be the best assistant for a homeowner.

Why do you need to seal a door?

• From the penetration of excessively cold or hot air flows;
• From the occurrence of a draft effect - dangerous phenomenon causing illness in household members;
• For a better fit of the canvas to the frame of the doorway. This is a kind of lock that protects the locks from play, and if the door is constantly in what is called free flight, then ultimately the key will not be able to get into the keyhole.

What basic requirements must a high-quality seal for an iron door meet?

• Possess exceptional sealing properties;
• Ensure the smoothness of the chassis - good to help open and close;
• Provide breathability and be a good door shock absorber;
• Withstand sudden changes in temperature;
• Be elastic and pliable - do not harden or soften under any influence.

The video shows a seal for a metal entrance door:

Which ones are used for a metal entrance door?

There are several types of seals on the construction accessories market, differing in the following indicators:

• Type of material of manufacture. The most common are products made of rubber fabric, silicone base, plastic, foam rubber bands or products made of polyethylene foam material;
• By fastening method. This group includes self-adhesive sheets, magnetic or pressing, with special glue applied to one side, or installed on additional fasteners.

Usually all material is sold in rolls linear meters, must be attached to it detailed instructions on installation.

The most popular types

Which one is suitable for a Chinese metal door?

If you have a Chinese front door installed, then at first it will function well, but over time you may notice some dents around the entire perimeter, and cold air from the outside begins to leak through them. This can happen because the metal itself is of low quality, it does not have the properties of real steel - strength and durability from any physical impact, and the door frame wrinkles from frequent slamming.

To correct the situation - rather than buy a new iron door design, first carefully inspect it and measure the perimeter of the door leaf. According to experts, the best insulation There will be a rubber model, maybe even with a profile. If not found the required material, you can try to purchase a soft but thin self-adhesive foam tape; it will perfectly flow around the entire perimeter of the canvas. But for reliability, apply an additional layer of glue to the contours; you can use the same silicone construction glue, which is intended for such work.

Video of replacing a seal on a metal entrance door:

Application (how to glue)

The insulating material itself should be installed on the metal door frame, but not as tightly as possible. This will ensure the best fit, which will affect the thermal insulation and noise protection properties. Moreover, the position installed door does not matter; in any case, it is possible to glue the insulation along the perimeter of the door jamb.

If you have a rubber or foam version, adhesives like Moment are suitable, and other types also adhere well to it.

Before starting work, you need to properly degrease the base for the glue; this can be any solvent or alcohol-based product.

Here's a video showing how to glue a rubber seal to a metal door:

First, apply a thin layer, spread it a little with a spatula and leave to dry for about 10 minutes. Then do the same with a strip of insulation, degrease and apply a thin adhesive layer, and leave for the same time. As soon as the layer dries a little, you can install a strip around the entire perimeter and press it firmly. Wait about 15 minutes for the result, and you can close the door with the key.