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Homemade tool box. How to make a wooden tool box

Homemade tool box. How to make a wooden tool box

A box for storing various small items and products is considered an indispensable attribute in a modern household. Thanks to this design, everything is in its place without creating clutter. For example, vegetables and fruits should be stored in a ventilated structure where fresh air can easily enter.

Monolithic products without any holes are suitable for tools. Designs with additional doors and a folding mechanism are suitable for various small items.

We offer original options DIY storage boxes. Here you will find out what materials and tools you will need to make these products.

What materials are used to build structures?

Most often, boxes are made of wood and other materials. For instruments, it is better to choose solid pine or maple. Alder or aspen is suitable for products. These tree species are distinguished by their durability and strength. They do not emit resinous secretions and do not dry out over time.

Plywood is suitable for making decorative items. You can place all sorts of little things here. To fix the parts, a special adhesive composition is used.

Master class on creating a box with your own hands

We offer step-by-step instructions on how to make a box at home. To do this you will need the following tools and materials:

  • tape measure;
  • a simple pencil;
  • board 25 mm thick;
  • wooden edges 15 mm thick;
  • thin plywood;
  • metal corners;
  • nails and screws;
  • hacksaw;
  • screwdriver;
  • metal hinges for opening the lid structure;
  • hammer.

First of all, you need to familiarize yourself with the diagrams and drawings of how to make a box. This will allow you to correctly compare the sizes finished product. You should not make too large structures, as they will take up a lot of free space.

When all the components are ready, you can proceed to making a storage system for vegetables and fruits. The process includes several stages:


On the surface of the boards we mark the size of the side parts of the product. Next we move on to the bottom of the box. We mark the size on the wooden edges. After this, using a hacksaw, we begin to cut out the blanks.

We fix the boards together using small nails. We attach the bottom parts using the same method.

The cover of the product consists of a plywood sheet. It is installed on special hinges that allow you to control the closing process.

The photo of the DIY box shows the entire work process.

Tool storage box

This type of design is considered best idea DIY box. This product will allow you to keep all your working tools in one place. Here you can make additional sections for storing screws, nails and nuts.

To do this you need to prepare:

  • thin board;
  • thick plywood;
  • hacksaw;
  • electric jigsaw;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • tape measure;
  • drawing of the finished product;
  • metal corners.


On sheets of thick plywood we make markings for the parts of the box. After this we drill holes for the fasteners metal hinges. Next, we connect the side parts to each other.

Let's start making the bottom for the storage system. To do this, we attach a thin board to the sides of the box. To prevent it from collapsing under the weight of tools, it must be strengthened with thin boards. To do this, several wooden elements are stuffed on the bottom surface.

On the side parts of the plywood we draw markings for the handles. They will be cut inside the main body of the product. Here you will need an electric jigsaw. The cutting base is installed at the beginning of the marking.


In the process of cutting out parts, you should not make sudden movements. They can cause cracks to appear on the surface of the product.

Now let's start installing the partitions. To do this from thin plywood cut out a small square. It is fixed with metal corners in the middle of the structure.

The diagram shows a detailed view of the tool box. The drawing shows the exact number of parts:

  • side parts – 4 pcs.;
  • bottom – 1 pc.;
  • septal wall;
  • handles – 2 pcs.

DIY photo of boxes

It's no secret that good master begin with good tool. And any tool must be stored carefully. In this material we will talk about how to make a tool box with your own hands. At the same time, use it in your work available materials.

In addition, there are tools that cannot be simply stored in bulk. For example, files or drills. From friction against each other, these objects become dull. And during work, a tool carelessly lying around forces you to waste time looking for it.

So - we need a box to store the necessary devices, Supplies and fastening elements.

Making your own tool box

To begin with, let’s define its purpose and functionality. What it is and what it should be.

Portable tool box

It holds a small number of items, usually the configuration corresponds to the type of work. Such a box must have a strong lock so that it does not accidentally open during transportation. During movement, the instrument should not dangle inside; each element has its own niche, and is secured if possible.

Stationary tool box

True, this is a relative concept. They just don’t carry such a box with them to the place of work. It can be carefully moved within the workshop.

This design does not provide mounts for tools, but they are arranged in compartments and, as a rule, divided into groups.

Specialized tool box

Unlike the first two options, such storage is intended for a specific group of devices. For example, wrenches, or a set of bits and drills for a screwdriver. In addition to the main contents, maintenance materials are usually placed in such boxes.

Such devices are more convenient than universal ones, but you will need several of them.

Therefore, before manufacturing, you need to decide which option you need. First, take an inventory of your tools. Arrange them by groups and sizes. And it will immediately become clear to you how many boxes and what size you will need.

How to make a tool box

Selecting material:

  • Metal tool box. It's not that easy to do. Welding may be required. A self-made steel box will be too heavy to carry, but it has its advantages. A heavy and bulky tool will not break the cells so quickly. You don’t have to be too fussy about carefully laying out a 38x52 key weighing half a kilogram. A heavy set of socket heads will not break the wooden bottom.
    But for devices with sharp sharpening, or files, it is not suitable. The best option– installation of such a box under the workbench. You just need to install a limiter to prevent the heavy pallet from falling on your feet. When making a mobile or portable version, you can use thin sheet metal and make a box following the example of factory designs.
  • Another option to follow is an iron cart with drawers for tools and accessories. This design is popular in car repair shops. For the home workshop this is perfect option, only manufacturing is fraught with technical difficulties;
  • If you need the same strength and functionality, try making a tool box from plywood. The strength will decrease slightly, but processing such material is much easier. Before making a box with your own hands, draw drawings. The craft should be neat and match the size of your instrument. For the main body, choose a thickness of 8-10 mm. You can buy wheels (if you need them) at a hardware store. All connections must be with screws. The nails will quickly become loose. The joints are additionally coated with PVA glue. Boxes with cells can be made from 6-8 mm plywood. The frame walls are made of thicker material, the bottom and cells are thinner. If the tool is not too heavy, we choose hardwood blocks as guides. You can screw metal corners.

    note

    If you have additional funds, buy roller guides at a furniture accessories store.


    Then you will not be afraid that the box will fall on your feet. Wide and low pallets are perfectly divided into sections by internal partitions. The more there are, the easier it is to sort tools and consumables according to their intended purpose. DIY tool box - provides ample opportunities for creativity;
  • DIY wooden box. This is a carpentry classic. Drawings of such a portable storage facility were published in the magazine " Young technician"50 years ago.
    To make it you will need a board 10-20 mm thick and a hacksaw. That's all. Therefore, despite the many modern designs, old school masters choose this option. The classic design does not provide compartments or other functional devices. Just a deep box and a comfortable handle along the entire length. This shape of the handle has practical significance. If the weight of the tool is unevenly distributed, the center of gravity point can always be found, so it is always convenient to carry the box;
  • A practical addition would be an insert section with its own handle, which occupies 50% of the drawer in height. This insert is used for small tools (screwdrivers, awls, small keys) and consumables (drills, screwdriver bits, etc.). It can be made from plywood or thinner wood. A large tool is located in the lower (main) compartment. Hammer, drill, plane, large pliers;
  • If wooden box does not require constant carrying - you can make a box with a retractable lid. There are several of these containers of the same size. They are placed on racks, and at the end an inventory is made of what contents are there. A completely different structure can be made from wood and plywood. Dressing table box (only without mirrors).

Last year I started acquiring precision computing instruments and decided to build a box in which I could store them. Being pressed for time, I decided that instead of working with my hands, I would cut all the parts using a laser.




These instructions are for assembling a very durable DIY plywood toolbox, consisting of 9 compartments. Pull-out shelves are designed in such a way that they are locked in the drawer and cannot be pulled out completely, so you won’t be able to pull out and drop a shelf with an expensive tool, damaging it.

A lock can be built in to secure the drawers or to lock the top compartment. This tool organizer has withstood a year of rough handling as it moves between my apartment and a local workshop.

Step 1: Materials

Wood:

  • 2 sheets of Baltic birch 150*150 cm and 0.6 cm thick
  • 1 sheet of Baltic birch 30*38 cm and 0.15 cm thick
  • Satin polyurethane varnish

Metal products:

  • 4 screws per 1.3 cm

Foam earbuds:

Step 2: A few design notes


For better protection The box uses double-layer walls. While all internal parts are made from 0.6 cm Baltic birch, all external walls are made of double-layer. This allowed dust protection to be built into the top compartment, as well as a front wall to be added to cover all shelves during transport. In the instructions, the inner layer that holds all the shelves will be called the inner casing, and the outer layer, coated with urethane, will be called the outer casing.

Also pay attention to the notes embedded in the photos. Almost every photo has notes to help you understand how the box is made. These should help you a lot in understanding how to properly glue and assemble the parts.

Step 3: Laser cutting parts



The attached files contain everything necessary projects for cutting: *.ai files for Illustrator and *.dxf files. All wooden parts cut from 0.6 cm thick Baltic birch. All parts were cut using a 150W GWeike LC6090 laser cutter with the power set to 80% at 10 mm/s. I also lightly sanded all the front and interior surfaces with 220 grit sandpaper. Pay attention to the sanding and your drawers will slide out much easier.

Files

Step 4: Assembling the Inner Case






First we will assemble the inner housing. Start by making sure everything fits together, and make sure you understand how everything fits together. Depending on the glue you use, the assembly can be completed very quickly. There is no need to generously lubricate everything with glue - just drop one drop of glue on each tooth. Excessive glue will only cause trouble in the future when you have to clean it off.

First, assemble the two top shelves, which will house three drawers. Glue the dividers to the shelves and then glue the entire structure to the back panel of the inner cabinet. Then attach the three remaining shelf sections to the back panel. You can then attach the side panels of the inner case.

The easiest way to do this is if the glue on all the shelves is still wet, or at least movable. Finally, you can attach the bottom panel of the inner case and the front panel that runs across the top of the inner case (it forms the front of the top compartment). Use lots of clamps to hold all the pieces together while the glue dries.

Remove any excess glue from all joints before proceeding. Any lumps of dried glue will make it difficult or even impossible to insert the drawers when we get to this step. It's easiest to remove the glue while it's still soft, I usually remove it with a chisel or square file.

Sand the wood to remove any glue exposed on the outside of the cabinet. Also make sure that all the teeth are recessed into each other and do not protrude. This is necessary so that nothing gets in the way when we connect the outer and inner housings.

Step 5: Assembling the Drawers





Show 4 more images





The assembly of the drawers is obvious. Sand the outer surface so they can easily fit into the inner housing. Please note that on the back of each drawer there is a small hole approximately 1mm thick. Small drawers have one hole, and large ones have two. The holes mark the location where you want to install the locking mechanism.

The circular mechanisms are cut from the back of the case to preserve the wood material. The locking mechanisms will hold the drawer in the box and you will not be able to remove it completely if you drop the equipment on the floor. Screw a small screw (4 pieces approximately 1.3 cm long) through back wall drawer into the locking mechanism. Tighten the screw enough that you can easily rotate the locking mechanism from a horizontal unlocked position to a vertical locked position.

This will allow you to easily lock the drawer in the box without having to take everything apart. The attached video shows how the drawers are locked in the inner casing.

Step 6: Assembling the lid





Assemble the inner housing cover and let it dry. The outer cover can then be assembled on top of the inner lid. Check that all the pieces are the right size and lay them out for gluing and quick assembly. Assemble the outer cover on top of the inner cover, apply glue to the surface of the inner cover so that both surfaces are firmly glued.

If you can’t assemble things quickly, use glue that takes longer to dry, so you won’t ruin your workpiece. After gluing the two layers together, I placed the lid over the inner body and made sure that the lid fit well and did not require any additional processing.

Step 7: Assembling the Outer Case






The outer casing is glued on top of the inner casing. Apply glue to the back and sides of the outer case, and also apply glue to the inner case. Note that the outer case is taller - the extra space at the bottom will be used for front panel storage. To determine the height for the inner housing, install the cover and make sure the outer and inner housings fit well.

There will be two panels at the base of the box. The inner panel has a long hole that secures the front panel in place. Glue inner panel to the outer one and quickly glue the entire structure to the inner/outer body.

After everything is dry, put the drawers back in place. If necessary, sand the edges of the drawers - they will move more smoothly. Finish the step by sanding the front of the drawer so that all the drawers and shelves are smooth and even.

Step 8: Assembling the Front Panel





First, place the inner front panel in place and use the holes in it as guides to install the drawer handles. Then glue the two front panels together. You can install them in a drawer to align them with each other. Then carefully remove the glued panel and, if necessary, clamp it in a vice.

Once the glue has dried, sand the panel until it fits well. Can also be rounded bottom part panels using sandpaper or a plane. This rounding will make it easier to insert the panel when you close the drawer.

After assembly, I discovered that the drawer handles were a little long and did not allow the front panel to sit flush against the drawers, so I had to cut them down a bit.

Now that everything is put together, sand the outside of the drawer to give it a neat look.

Step 9: Attach the Metal Pieces and Finish the Look of the Drawer









To install the lid, I used a piano hinge. The loop was too long so I cut it to fit the box. On top I screwed a handle from a Fender guitar amplifier. There were 4 fasteners screwed on the sides. Here I went a little overboard, since two fasteners on the front panel would have been enough (but if you are going to use the box to carry a heavy tool, then it is better to screw on 4 fasteners). The side handles were screwed on with short screws - this way I didn't touch the internal drawers. Brass corners were installed on the corners of the box; they will protect the wood from damage.

The lock is a regular lock from a desk drawer. I bent the tab of the lock so that it hooked onto the bracket screwed to the inside of the drawer. Lastly, I screwed a bottle opener onto the side because you never know when you'll need one. Once all these parts are installed, unscrew them to complete the wood treatment.

I applied 4 coats of satin polyurethane varnish. Allow the varnish to dry after each application and lightly buff it with 220 grit sandpaper. I only varnished the outside of the box, leaving the inside of the wood completely untouched.

Now put everything back together and think about what you want to put in your drawer.

Step 10: Optional. Cutting shapes in foam





NOTE: Foam used in movement boxes is a highly controversial topic. The main problem is that it can release neoprene, which can cause damage and rusting of appliances. Therefore, think about what devices and tools will be in your drawer and perhaps replace the foam with foam rubber. Also, if you want to cut holes in the foam using a laser, remember that it is flammable! To make it easier to get the tool out, make gaps between it and the foam of about 2 cm.

The calling card of a true master is the box in which he stores his instrument.

It is impossible to do without this accessory if you need to get the job done quickly and efficiently, without wasting time looking for drills and screws, taps, screwdrivers and dozens of other necessary little things.

A wooden box with a handle that has served as storage for centuries hand tools, today you can only find it in the museum of wooden architecture.

It has been replaced by light and durable cases, suitcases and organizers, striking the imagination with a variety of shapes, volumes and sizes.

We will look at how not to drown in a sea of ​​offers and choose a convenient, fairly compact and reliable tool box in our article.

What is a tool box for?

It performs three main functions:

  • Optimizes storage space, allowing you to place it in a minimum volume maximum amount necessary devices.
  • Makes work easier and faster, since all accessories are laid out in a certain order, clearly visible and easily accessible for use.
  • Makes it easy to transport the tool thanks to the presence of handles, shoulder straps or wheels.

It should be noted that storing tools is not the only function of such boxes. Since small fasteners are often required during work, the most “honorable” place is allocated for them at the top level.

Types of tool storage boxes

Depending on the method of accessing the contents, boxes of open and closed types are distinguished.

The first ones resemble an ordinary travel bag. Their main advantage is quick access to stored items, and the disadvantages are inconvenience when carrying (the contents spill out when tipped over) and low level safety.

The most popular are boxes - durable boxes with a tightly closing lid equipped with latches and a lock.

Depending on the type of material used for manufacturing, tool boxes are divided into metal, plastic and metal-plastic.

Steel boxing is durable and reliable. However, you can't call it easy. Therefore, aluminum is more often used in production - a lightweight, durable and corrosion-resistant metal. If you need a big one portable box for storing tools that reveal their contents in several levels, then it is better to give preference to this material.

Plastic is another material widely used in tool box manufacturing. He's different at an affordable price, sufficiently high strength and durability.

There are two main disadvantages of this material– low strength of the “case-lock” connection and fragility in the cold. Therefore, in the cold season, you should protect such a tool case from strong impacts.

The search for a material that combines the lightness of plastic with the strength of metal led to the creation of galvanized metal-plastic. The boxes made from it are spacious, quite light and can withstand very heavy loads.

Another hallmark tool boxes refers to the method of use: professional and household. The former are distinguished by large capacity, maximum reliability and high price. Household models have small dimensions, and for their manufacture they use inexpensive materials and accessories.

The “specialization” of tool boxes also varies, which should definitely be taken into account when purchasing. The box can only be designed to store carpentry tools or plumbing supplies. Universal option combines in its design compartments intended for different types installation equipment (screwdriver, drill, grinder, clamps, drills, couplers, self-tapping screws).

Often all free space is allocated for convenient layout of hardware. This box is called an organizer.

You can’t put a lot of tools in it, but all the small things necessary for work will fit completely.

How to choose the right option?

First you need to answer the following questions:

  1. How many and what kind of tools do you most often need for work?
  2. Is a standard compartment for hardware (screws, screws, screws and nuts) sufficient for your needs, or is it better to buy a separate organizer box for them?
  3. Do you often move the tool over long distances (option with wheels, shoulder strap or regular handle).

Once you understand your needs, you can start choosing suitable model, focusing on the products of well-known companies. There are not very many of them on the box market.

Foreign brands are the most popular Stanley, Kroft, Keter, Fit, Blocker. Choosing a tool box domestic production, it is worth paying attention to the products of the Zubr company.

The American company Stanley produces professional and household tool cases. Its products are traditionally distinguished high quality, for which you will have to pay decent money. So for a standard 19-inch plastic box from this manufacturer (49x25x24cm), sellers ask from 2,000 rubles.

The average cost of a box made of metal-plastic (size 20 inches) is 2,900 rubles. Large boxes from this company, equipped with transport wheels, can be purchased for no less than 8,000 rubles.

For household use Inexpensive tool boxes produced by the already mentioned companies Fit, Keter, Kroft, Blocker are well suited. Depending on the size and quality of the material, price tags for these products range from 400 to 3,500 rubles. Models with wheels usually cost a little more.

The Zubr company produces cases for tools in different cost categories (from 500 to 4,500 rubles) and competes almost equally with the products of foreign brands. Therefore, among its products you will find for yourself suitable option And experienced master, and a simple lover of home crafts.

When choosing a tool case, pay attention to the quality of soldering of the plastic, its thickness and the reliability of the latches. The last point is especially important, since a tool case with spontaneously opening or broken latches is extremely inconvenient to carry.

Those who use not only small hand tools, but also larger electrified tools will certainly like the model with removable partitions. By removing them, you can significantly increase the internal volume of the box.

How to make a tool box with your own hands?

This design does not have any particularly complex elements, so it can be done on your own. The simplest homemade tool box is an open box with a handle.

To make it, you can use a thin board, plywood or OSB board. Having cut out two ends with holes for the handle according to the template, screw the side walls and bottom to them with self-tapping screws. After this, one or two partitions are placed inside. Their height must be chosen such that there is space on top for installing a shallow wooden or metal box in which small fasteners will be stored.

Putting a durable cover on such a box artificial leather with pocket compartments sewn onto it, you can significantly increase the amount of tools you can store.

The wooden handle can be replaced with a strap handle, which is more convenient to carry.

A more difficult task is to make a folding tool box with your own hands. It is very roomy and easy to use.

The most interesting feature This design is a system of levers (metal or wooden), with the help of which it opens its compartments on several levels.

Once you've assembled the large bottom compartment and the four top compartments, stack them on top of each other as shown in the picture, then mark where to attach the swing arms.

Before finally securing them, check the ease of movement and accuracy of opening of the entire structure. Two metal carrying handles need to be attached to the side walls of the upper compartments.

All necessary fittings(latches, locks and hinges) for a homemade box can be purchased in specialized stores.

Every man in his house (apartment) must have a screwdriver, a hammer and at least a handful of different nails. If this is a master with “golden” hands, then you need to have a whole set various instruments, for which you need a convenient box.

DIY tool box

Many tools (hammer or hacksaw) cannot always be placed in standard tools for storing and carrying tools. Therefore, craftsmen prefer to make with my own hands capacity the right size. Let's look at the stages of work on how to make a tool box.

Material selection

Can be used: metal or plywood. But wood, which has been the basis of carpentry for a long time, is considered a classic. Therefore, it is easier to make a wooden tool box.

Type of shell

You should think in advance and measure where the chest doors and handle options will be located. The design can be open or closed to accommodate large items. This could be a large box with compartments or a designer piece of art.












Interior decoration

Model can be easy to store various little things or multifunctional: a separate row with holes for various screwdrivers, pencils, glue, pliers, etc.

Drawers on several levels are convenient; they can be inserted into each other or pulled out. The main thing is to achieve maximum order in the arrangement of parts, so that there are nails, screws, tape measure, power tools, etc. separately.

When manufacturing a specific model, it is necessary to take into account the operating conditions:

  • storage location (apartment, basement or garage);
  • humidity level;
  • temperature;
  • frequency of use of instruments and devices ( professional activity or for home).

Tool Box Designs

Before purchasing a compact model for different instruments We list the types of structures:

  • The boxes are made of solid durable materials, usually rectangular. There may be a couple of pull-out compartments on the side. Hinged or removable lid with lock. The model is convenient for constant movement.
  • A set of drawers is a set of open trays different sizes convenient for home.
  • The case is a compact, durable suitcase, with a convenient wide opening, and a handle on the side is a must. Large tools will not fit.
  • An organizer is a low container with many cells. There may be a case or a bedside table with compartments for small items.
  • The tray looks like an open box with recesses, there is no handle. Not convenient for transportation.
  • The bag looks like a sports bag, handles. The model is roomy, but not reliable, and the fabric allows moisture to pass through.
  • The backpack is suitable for storing tools, but it is inconvenient to get them out.
  • A container is a compact closed product with many drawers and sections, some removable. Transformers are especially convenient.
  • The trolley is used in factories; it is a large container on wheels with a comfortable handle. There are many sections, easy to move over short distances.














Clothes for tools

  • This is a vest with pockets where various tools are distributed.
  • A belt bag is an indispensable item for repairs.
  • An apron with ties at the neck and a belt with pockets.
  • Rolled storage case.

Types of Best Tool Boxes

An important role is played by the material from which structures for storing and moving various tools are made:

Tool box on wheels

Models made of plastic (metal) with a vertical body with 2 wheels. Convenient handle and lock, the model accommodates many sections. The only negative is the high price.

Aluminum

Boxes made of aluminum are the most durable and reliable. Popular models of metal boxes for any tools:

  • Fit 65610 – aluminum body, equipped with a handle, mobile partitions inside, weight 1.5 kg.
  • Dexter is the most compact drawer for small parts.
  • Wilton 16910U is a convenient suitcase made of aluminum with steel hinges. Weighs 3 kg, has many pockets on the lid.














Car boxes

  • Bawer is a universal model that fits conveniently under the car frame. The car box is strong and reliable, made of galvanized steel, but weighs 12.4 kg.
  • KAMAZ - simple reliable design made of metal for long-term storage of any equipment.
  • I-580 is the most convenient model made of polyvinyl chloride (impact-resistant plastic with 3 types of steel). Weight 35 kg, capacity 90 liters, reliable locks, perfectly protected from moisture.

Large containers

  • STANLEY Mobile Job Chest is the most practical, dimensions: 962:600:600 mm, made of thick plastic, amazing in capacity.
  • StanleyFatMax with the most thoughtful functionality. Cover with latches, inside there are 3 sections, there is a lower section for large tools. Handles on the sides and wheels make it a popular model.
  • Peli 0450 – considered the most mobile: 3 handles and wheels with reverse motion. The case's sealed, impact-resistant stainless steel body, voluminous sections and containers are easy to insert into each other. The only negative is the large weight and volume.

For the balcony

Inexpensive models are suitable for storage on the balcony:

  • Fit – the case is ideal for small parts; you can change the size of the cells. Durable plastic latch.
  • Lot-3 – accessible, inexpensive and compact, has a handle and colored trays.
  • MosPromTara for home, no sections, but there is a lid.

Organizers are more convenient in everyday life for ease of transfer to any place.

With combination lock

  • Brauberg – used for transporting valuables. The impact-resistant case is made of 8 mm steel and plastic, with 6 cells inside.
  • Hairway – with the greatest protection(metal with plastic), locks with code on 2 sides of the model, dimensions: 420x215x330 mm.

Metal

  • Intertool is a popular box with 5 compartments, a secure lock and a comfortable handle.
  • STANLEY Expert Cantilever is practical and convenient, 5 folding compartments, protection against finger injuries, comfortable handle, but heavy.

Plastic tool boxes

  • StanleyClassic made of impact-resistant plastic, comfortable design.
  • Tayg is made with amazing rationality, everything is compactly placed.

Professional

Stanley is reliable and irreplaceable, protected from corrosion, the handles are equipped with soft inserts. Removable castings inside, special compartment for drills, etc.

Bosh LT-BOXX - simple to use but reliable. The strength of the product is ensured by acrylonitrile butadienestrol.

Photos of the best tool boxes

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