Rhododendron home care. Growing azaleas at home: all the rules and subtleties
Indoor rhododendron is known to gardeners under another name - azalea. And many flower growers, I think, have already managed to appreciate in practice the rather obstinate nature of this flower when grown indoors. I was no exception: I once bought a luxurious, huge indoor azalea bush and tried to create a comfortable environment for it at home, but, alas, the plant quickly died.
Therefore, if you want to have a capricious beauty of azalea on your windowsill, you should clearly assess your capabilities, time, and the presence of the necessary conditions so that the plant does not live for just a week, but continues to delight you with flowering.
What is azalea
Indoor rhododendron usually grows in the form of a small bush with round, glossy dense leaves and blooming with large flowers of a wide variety of colors. The color of azalea flowers varies from snow-white to bright red.
Most often, in indoor conditions, the height of a rhododendron bush does not exceed 30-50 centimeters, but if you grow the plant in the form standard tree, its height can reach more than a meter.
The flowering period of azaleas falls mainly in February-March, sometimes in May. The plant should bloom annually, which is achieved with suitable azalea care.
According to the structure and shape, azalea flowers can be:
- simple;
- terry;
- a flower within a flower, with a total number of double petals of more than 30;
- a flower within a flower, but with simple petals.
Such a variety of shapes, colors, and textures of petals will always allow you to find the flower that would satisfy the taste of any gardener.
It is the rich bloom that attracts people when they are in flower shop see an azalea. And, looking at this flower, admiring its splendor, people buy azalea for themselves or as a luxurious gift, not knowing that they brought a very capricious and whimsical plant into their home.
Rules for caring for rhododendron
In nature, this plant lives in fairly cool conditions. It is this fact that significantly influences the impossibility of its normal growth in room conditions. Many of us do not have a room at home where it would be cool enough to please azaleas.
Therefore, the main cause of flower death is most often heat air, dry air.
In addition, not any soil for azaleas is suitable, but one with high acidity, which is not so common among indoor plants. Therefore, in the store, purchase specialized soil for growing azaleas with an acidity pH of 4 to 4.5. It is necessary to make it loose, containing coniferous components, sand and peat.
Every two to three weeks the plant needs mineral fertilizing, and at the time of bud formation and at the beginning of flowering it is recommended to fertilize the azalea with a superphosphate solution.
As mentioned above, heat practically equates to the death of the plant. The optimal temperature for rhododendron growth is +10-15 degrees. So think about it: can you provide such low temperatures in an apartment?
In summer this becomes even more difficult to do; azaleas need frequent spraying, but at the same time you need to avoid getting the spray bottle on the flowers of the plant themselves, as this spoils appearance.
Watering the plant is an important point of care
Watering is also not so simple. It is necessary to increase their frequency if the temperature rises environment, ensure that the soil is always moist.
Azalea prefers soft water, so you always need a supply of settled, but not bloomed, clean water.
It is better to place the pot with the plant on a base of small pebbles poured into a tray. There must always be water in the pan so that the plant receives enough moisture from its evaporation.
Pests and diseases of azaleas
If the difficulties described above have not yet discouraged you from having an azalea at home, you should know that the capricious nature of the plant is also manifested in its resistance to diseases and pests of indoor plants.
Indoor rhododendron very quickly at elevated air temperatures is affected by spider mites, which can eat your plant quickly and irrevocably.
Quite often, spots can be seen on azalea leaves, the appearance of which indicates a fungal disease.
How to propagate rhododendron
If you managed to find an approach to an azalea, and you want to get new plants from the mother plant, then you can try to propagate the plant using cuttings.
Although here azalea shows its complex nature: Rooting its cuttings is a difficult process, most often ending in failure.
After a month and a half, the azalea bush can be planted in a permanent pot.
Soil for azalea/rhododendron
Acidic, humus-rich soil is ideal for rhododendron.
You can prepare your own soil mixture at home. For this you will need:
- coniferous land;
- peat;
- sand.
The components are mixed in equal proportions.
To maintain the required acidity, organic acid must be added to the soil monthly.
Azalea pot
The azalea root system is quite weak and undeveloped. A pot 10-15 centimeters high is suitable for planting. The diameter should be slightly larger than the rhododendron crown. For each subsequent transplant, a pot is taken with a larger diameter than the previous one.
The best option for planting or transplanting azaleas would be clay container, then the soil will be provided with the necessary air circulation.
How to properly replant an azalea at home?
Transplanting an adult rhododendron is practically no different from planting a cutting. The plant is transferred from one pot to another, larger in diameter by several centimeters.
Before transplanting, azalea is a must trimmed. Young shoots are pinched, and overgrown branches are cut off. The dense bush is thinned out. This procedure is mandatory, otherwise future flowering will not be abundant, and the bush will become loose and sparse.
The trimmed plant is removed from the pot and cleaned root system from an earthen lump, soaking it in boiled water. Then they are placed in root for 30 minutes and planted in new pot with coniferous-peat soil mixture. Please note - root collar Azaleas do not need to be buried; they should be flush with the ground surface.
After transplanting, the azalea is watered abundantly and left alone for a week so that the plant has the opportunity to adapt to new conditions.
Up to three years, azaleas are replanted annually, and after that, once every 2 years is sufficient.
Rhododendron should be planted and replanted when new buds begin to form on it. Their development and active growth show that the plant has tolerated the change in soil mixture well and is ready for further cultivation.
How to plant an azalea?
The roots of the plant are strongly intertwined with each other, so it is extremely rare to plant an azalea. The best way to get bushes with roots is to cut off all the roots lengthwise with a sharp knife. Then the shoots are planted using the same method as cuttings, watered abundantly and sprayed frequently. After 2-3 weeks of proper care, new leaves will appear on the tops of the rhododendron.
Caring for azalea/rhododendron after planting/transplanting
After transshipment or planting, the flower is weakened and needs special conditions content. It is placed in a warm place that is well lit, but not exposed to direct sunlight.
Immediately after planting or transplanting, the plant is watered with the liquid in which the rhizome was previously immersed. Then you should take a break of 4-6 days and start watering with a weak zircon solution. You should avoid applying fertilizing and fertilizers - they can burn the roots and the plant will die.
The crown is sprayed regularly warm water, maintaining humidity 80-90%.
Azalea is a very capricious and demanding plant. All the efforts of flower growers are fully rewarded when a long period of flowering of the plant begins, and it becomes a “pearl” indoor garden.
Photo
Indoor rhododendron(azalea) belongs to those plants that amaze with their appearance, fit perfectly into any interior, fill the rooms with a pleasant aroma and give them brightness. Flowers that bloom in winter create a unique atmosphere in the house. Of course, azalea is a very spectacular plant, but it is not easy to care for. To grow this flower, you have to work hard. The efforts made are justified when the rhododendron gives its owners beautiful flowers. Picking up appropriate place for a flowerpot, it must be taken into account that the leaves and stems contain toxic substances. The plant must be positioned so that animals and children cannot reach it.
- Indian. A plant of this species grows in mountain forests, where there is no lack of moisture and coolness. This is the main azalea species used to produce a large number of hybrids. Flowers are large (up to 5 cm in diameter), rich Pink colour. Among the hybrids there are red, yellow, cream and white flowers, as well as variegated ones.
- Japanese. This is a less common shrub that grows in mild climates with sufficient moisture levels. Its flowers are not as large as those of the Indian rhododendron and are lower and resistant to low temperatures. The plant blooms in white, red-orange, red, pink or lilac. Sometimes on one bush you can observe flowering in different shades.
- Early flowering. This group includes plants that bloom between October and January. Its representatives are the varieties Adventglockchen, Erie, Orange Boven, Doberlug, Enzette Dagmar, Weisse Schame, Helmut Vogel, Dresden 1936.
- Medium late flowering. These azaleas bloom from January to March. The list of plants is represented by the varieties Leopold Astrid, Apollo, Avenir, Florida, Knut Erven, Max Shamet, Albert Elizabeth.
- Late flowering. The flowering period lasts from February to May. At this time, Sakuntala, Ernst Thirs, Concinna, Hexe, Niobe, Coelestinum, Professor Wolters bloom.
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Types and varieties
Azalea belongs to the Heather family and can reach a height of 50 cm. There are about 2000 varieties of this plant, but usually only 2 types are cultivated at home:
In addition to the considered types of azaleas, there are ampelous and pyramidal types of rhododendron. Usually plants suitable for indoor growing, belong to evergreen varieties, less often they are representatives of deciduous varieties.
Azaleas bloom profusely for about two months; with the onset of the dormant period, they need shade and cool air.
Varieties by flowering time:
The most suitable varieties for growing at home are Concinna, Niobe, John Herens, Albert Elizabeth, Verveniana rosea, Esmeralda, Eggebrechti, Adventsglockchen, Fritz Saidor, Celestina.
Temperature and lighting
When growing at home, the room should be light and cool. Optimal temperature air is 10-15°C, this figure cannot exceed 18°C.
In autumn, when flower buds appear, it is recommended to provide more low temperature air than the rest of the time - about 6°C. This can be done by temporarily moving the indoor rhododendron to the basement, balcony or other cool place. Before flowering, it is necessary to return to the previous temperature values. Often gardeners use a trick and use melt water for watering or add ice to the flowerpot, laying it around the edges of the pot.
The correct temperature is great importance. For example, if it is 12°C, the flowering period will last 60 days, but at a temperature of 20°C, the azalea will not bloom for long - only 14 days. Most abundant flowering possible upon admission fresh air V large quantities. Rhododendron in a pot can be left on the terrace all summer, protecting it from direct sunlight, and the rest of the time the room in which the bush is located is often ventilated. But do not forget that this plant is sensitive to significant temperature fluctuations. The azalea should be in the shade, it must be protected from frequent changes in soil and air temperature, otherwise premature bud release may occur.
Watering and fertilizing
It is very important to provide the plant with proper care, because its condition and the duration of the flowering period depend on this. 10-20 minutes after watering the rhododendron soft water its excess must be drained. The soil should be well moistened, but not flooded. It must not be allowed to dry out. In cases where the soil is still dry, it is necessary to wet the plant in the shower, maintaining the water temperature between 28 and 30°C.
If during the growing season the soil must be moistened frequently and abundantly, then during the dormant period moderate watering is required. Also, spraying should be done at least 2 times a week.
To feed, 2 times a month you need to water the bush with water to which 1 tsp was added. citric acid. If this rule is regularly followed, the acid balance of the soil is maintained. It is recommended to apply small portions daily after watering. complex fertilizer in liquid form. To determine the optimal amount of fertilizer for one day, the monthly norm must be divided by the number of waterings.
When the buds form and the azalea grows at an accelerated pace, they use classic fertilizers. It is enough to add them every 20 days. Apply organic fertilizers, then mineral, later again organic, etc.
When and how often to prune rhododendron?
You need to monitor when the buds fade and remove them, otherwise there will be much fewer flowers than there could be. After pruning, it is recommended to replant the bush, choosing a larger container for it.
When the flowering period is over, remove 5 cm of each branch on which there was a flower. Weakened shoots are removed completely. Thanks to such actions, the growth of young strong stems will occur. When three pairs of leaves grow on them, and this happens 3-4 weeks after pruning, you need to pinch the tops of the shoots. The listed manipulations are repeated annually.
Transplantation and propagation
Care involves replanting after purchase, then annually for three years, and later once every two years. They use soil purchased from a special store, since it has a special composition. It can be either heather soil or a mixture including peat and coniferous soil, sand.
When growing rhododendron at home, it should be replanted as needed. If the surface of the soil is covered with moss, or the roots of the plant are visible, the azalea must be replanted.
In summer, for propagation of indoor rhododendron, semi-lignified cuttings of at least 6 cm in length are used. The age of the cuttings used should be 4-5 months; they are cut at an angle. Reproduction is carried out at temperatures from 20 to 25°C.
Before planting, you need to immerse the seedlings in a solution prepared on the basis of a drug, the components of which have a positive effect on the root system of the plant. The processing time should be at least half an hour. It can be extended up to an hour. It is necessary to create a drainage layer in the pot by filling the container 3-5 cm with layers of sand and coniferous soil. Remove 4 leaves from the bottom of the cutting. You need to plant azalea cuttings by immersing them 1-2 cm in the ground. It is recommended to cover the seedlings with film or glass. During the period when they take root, ventilate the room as often as possible - at least 3 times every 7 days. Usually it lasts 1.5 months.
5-6 days before the day on which the seedlings are planned to be transplanted, they are removed from under the shelter. Cuttings with a developed root system are planted in pots using coniferous-peat soil. Then they provide shelter again for 11-14 days.
To make flowering more intense, it is necessary to periodically pinch the tips of the shoots. It is enough to do this 3 or 4 times a year. The apical bud is removed for the first time on the 31-46th day after the end of the flowering period, when young shoots have four pairs of leaves. When performing this action one last time, the variety is taken into account. If the azalea is early, the last pinching must be done before July 15th. For late plants, pinching should be done in early August.
When growing the plant, the leaves may turn yellow. This happens due to clay contained in the soil or water. The problem is eliminated by watering with acidified water.
If the leaves are wrinkling, there are a variety of reasons to consider. This may be a lack of moisture, an increase in the recommended temperature, exposure to sunlight, or dry air. The problem is being solved in the following way: put the pot in the shade, water and spray more often and more abundantly, ensure the presence of moist air.
What pests affect azalea?
Indoor rhododendron is susceptible negative influence Tarzanemus mite and hairy aphid. Mites cause serious damage to the plant; they attack flowers, buds, and young leaves. It is very difficult to see these insects without a magnifying glass. They can often be detected when light leaves appear, shoots curl, and flowering does not occur. To cure the plant, you need to apply an infusion of wood ash and spray it four times, maintaining an interval of 7-8 days. For cooking of this product water (10 l) and ash (500 g) are required. The components are combined and left to infuse for 24 hours, after which they are filtered and used for their intended purpose.
Hairy aphids damage young stems and sometimes affect leaves. For minor damage, the problem can be solved with soapy water. It is enough to wipe the plant with a cotton pad soaked in it and repeat this procedure after 7-10 days or spray the azalea with calendula tincture purchased at the pharmacy.
The septoria mushroom, which provokes the development of septoria, can also harm rhododendron. This disease can be identified by rusty or grayish-brown spots on the leaves. If not taken in a timely manner necessary measures, the affected leaves will fall off. Treatment requires Bordeaux mixture in the form of a 1% solution. The affected areas of the plant are treated for 10 days, once daily.
When purchasing an azalea for your home, you need to provide it with proper care. According to gardeners, when optimal conditions are created, such wild flowering is possible that even greenery is not visible.
Azaleas are valued for the abundance and beauty of their blooms. Photos with beautiful flowers do not leave anyone indifferent, and flower growers have a desire to admire such beauty in person. In addition, the buds bloom in winter, when there is especially little bright colors. Planting and growing indoor rhododendron at home requires knowledge and strict adherence to flower care rules. But even the capriciousness of the azalea will not prevent a novice gardener who really decides to grow this plant from caring for it.
Description of the plant
Azalea, often found on sale under the name "indoor rhododendron", is part of the genus Rhododendron, which belongs to the Ericaceae family. Although this division is quite arbitrary. Azaleas are compact evergreens, suitable for cultivation at home. Rhododendrons are distinguished by the fact that they shed their leaves for the winter and, due to their large dimensions, are used only in landscape design.
The dimensions of rhododendrons sometimes reach impressive sizes.
The name of the plant was given by the famous Swedish botanist and systematizer Carl Linnaeus. Translated from Greek it means “dry”. This is what an azalea looks like before flowering.
Europe became acquainted with azaleas quite a long time ago, at the end of the 17th century. However, this plant began to be widely cultivated only 50 years later. And the first breeding hybrids appeared only two centuries later. The plant appeared in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century.
Europeans believe that a blooming azalea brings happiness to the home. Therefore, those who grow it always try to ensure that on the Christmas table there is a pot with a bush densely strewn with bright buds.
In nature, azaleas are compact, low shrubs. They can most often be found in Southeast Asia, Japan and China. But some species live in Western Europe, USA, Russia (Caucasus, Far East, Eastern Siberia).
The azalea bush is characterized by intense branching. Young shoots are densely covered with short “pile” of grayish or light brown color; as they mature, they become smooth. The leaves are small (2.5–4 cm in length), ellipsoid or lanceolate, densely pubescent on the underside. They are thin, but tough, smooth to the touch, dark green, glossy and shiny. Flowers on very short stalks are located in the axils of the leaves, 2–6 pieces each..
Most azalea species live in Southeast Asia
Azaleas buds open under New Year or immediately after it. There are so many of them that the leaves are practically invisible. Flowering continues until mid-spring. Azaleas bloom annually when they are 3–4 years old.
The opened flowers are shaped like bells. They have five or six petals, but breeders have bred semi-double and double hybrids. To the natural shades (snow-white, pink, crimson, scarlet) they added purple, brick, coral, lilac, dark purple (almost black). Yellow is very rare, but there are no blue azaleas yet. There are also variegated petals (a white or pinkish background covered with thin red strokes and stripes), as well as corrugated ones.
Beware, poisonous plant
All parts of the plant are poisonous! They contain substances that cause muscle cramps and negatively affect the central nervous system. However, in the East they have learned to “squeeze lemonade out of lemon”, after preliminary treatment, using the stems, leaves and flowers of azalea to treat certain diseases, in particular, cardiac arrhythmia, tachycardia, hypertension, stye on the eye, and nail fungus.
Video: appearance of azaleas
Types popular with amateur gardeners (homebush, Indian, Japanese, jasmine, Vogel mix, nabucco and others)
The most popular varieties of azaleas grown in garden conditions:
- Homebush azalea. A shrub reaching a height of 1 m. The flowers are double, raspberry-pink in color. Blooms profusely in May-June. The variety is able to withstand low temperatures;
- White azalea resembles a jasmine bush (which is why it is sometimes called jasmine). The plant reaches 60 cm in height. The flowers are double or non-double, except for white ones, but also with a pink tint. An interesting feature of the plant is that when planted next to other varieties of azaleas, jasmine can change color;
- azalea nabucco has considerable growth - up to 2 m. The crown is spreading, the flowers are wide open, bright red.
Of the variety of azaleas, only two have successfully adapted to home conditions:
Varieties for home cultivation
Most of the flowers that stand on the windowsills are selective hybrids bred on the basis of the Indian azalea. The most popular of them:
- Snowflake. The bush is characterized by intensive branching. It is valued for its resistance to various fungal and bacterial diseases. The flowers are single, mauve, large (5–7 cm in diameter). The petals are covered with small brick-colored specks;
- Albert-Elizabeth. Flowering begins in February. Very large flowers with a diameter of 8–9 cm. Petals are snow-white or soft pink with a wide crimson or bright crimson border and corrugated edges;
- Celestina. A spreading bush, the buds open in early spring or even later. The flowers are single, bright crimson, 6–7 cm in diameter;
- Starfish. At the base of the snow-white petals, it was as if crimson paint had been shaken off a brush;
- Melina. The hybrid was bred on the basis of the Japanese azalea. The height of the plant is up to 30 cm, the diameter of the bush is 60 cm. The leaves are silvery-gray. The flowers are small (5 cm), different shades pink. The edges of the petals are heavily corrugated;
- Madame Joly. Deciduous variety. The height of the bush is about 1.5 m. The flowers are simple, pink. The bases of the petals are yellow-orange. Blooms in late spring;
- Czardas. The height of the bush is about 1 m. The buds open in April. The petals have a very rare creamy yellow tint. The flowers are double and emit a pleasant aroma. The hybrid is very demanding sunlight, with its deficiency, the diameter of the flowers decreases, the brightness of the petals noticeably decreases;
- Satan. Plant height is up to 1.5 m. Very bright single flowers with flame-colored petals. Against the general scarlet background, yellow reflections seem to dance. This is especially noticeable on inside;
- Warbler. The height of the bush is 1.2–1.5 m. The crown, even without pruning, takes the shape of an almost regular ball. The flowers are snow-white, with two corollas, one of which seems to be inserted into the other;
- Golden Lights. It is distinguished by its abundance of flowering and frost resistance. The petals are golden yellow. Flowers are 6–7 cm in diameter. Plant height is about 1 m;
- Azure. The flowers are more than 10 cm in diameter. The color of the petals is very rich, blackberry, with bright crimson specks on the inside;
- Koichiro Wada. Hybrid chameleon. Unopened buds are crimson-pink, the flowers themselves are much paler. Gradually they change color to white. The variety is frost-resistant and relatively unpretentious.
Photo gallery: hybrid azaleas
Snowflake is valued by flower growers for its resistance to bacterial and fungal diseases. Albert Elizabeth is distinguished by the large size of its variegated flowers. Celestine blooms most often in the spring. Starfish has very pure snow-white petals covered with crimson speckles. Melina, unlike most hybrids, is bred on the basis of Japanese azalea 
The Madame Joly variety has simple, non-double flowers with petals of a very delicate pink color. Chardas has a very rare shade of petals, and the flowers emit a pleasant aroma 
The shade of the petals of the azalea variety Satan resembles a flame. The azalea Slavka has a very interesting shape of flowers. Azalea Golden Lights is distinguished by its abundance of flowering even against the background of its “relatives.” The azalea Azure, despite its name, has deep purple petals. The buds of the azalea Koichiro Wada gradually change color from bright pink to snow-white
How to create optimal conditions for a plant
Azalea is poorly adapted to microclimate modern apartments, especially when there are radiators running there. Therefore, the gardener will have to try to create conditions suitable for her and maintain them.
Table: required microclimate for growing azaleas indoors (temperature, spraying, lighting)
| Factor | Recommendations |
| Location | The best option is the window sill of a window facing east or west. Regular ventilation of the room is mandatory. In summer, azalea can live on a balcony, veranda or in the garden. If possible, bury the flower along with the pot in the shade of a tree. The plant is returned back to the room in early or mid-August, without waiting for cold weather. |
| Lighting | Bright diffused light and protection from direct sunlight. In winter and in cloudy weather, fluorescent or special phytolamps are used to extend daylight hours to 10 hours. |
| Temperature | 12–15ºС during the active growing season and 6–8ºС in autumn (approximately 1.5–2 months). For selection hybrids - 20–22ºС and 14–16ºС, respectively. To ensure optimal performance, the pot is covered with snow or ice. This temperature is necessary condition formation of new flower buds. Azalea has a very negative attitude towards its sharp fluctuations (in any direction). |
| Air humidity | The optimal figure is about 70%. Azalea categorically does not tolerate dry air. In summer, during extreme heat and during the heating season, it is regularly sprayed (so that drops of water do not fall on the petals). |
How to plant and replant
When replanting, you should be careful, it is better to work with gloves, not forgetting about the toxicity of the plant.
Time and reasons for transplantation
Azalea grows quite quickly and branches intensively, so young plants need annual replanting. For adults, one procedure once every 2-3 years is enough, when the roots tightly entwine the earthen ball or a layer of moss appears on the surface of the soil. You can replant the plant immediately after flowering.
Choosing a pot
Azaleas have a superficial root system, so they do not need a large and deep pot. The best option- a container similar to a salad bowl or soup plate.
The azalea pot should be shallow
Soil composition
Azaleas prefer an acidic substrate, which is quite atypical for indoor plants (pH 4.5–5.0). It is maintained at the required level by watering the flower with a 0.2% solution of citric acid or aspirin (tablet per 1 cup of water) every 5-6 weeks. Other requirements for the soil are nutritional value, fibrousness, looseness and good aeration. There is ready-made soil on sale, designed specifically for rhododendrons (most often, pure heather soil), but you can prepare it yourself from coniferous soil, peat chips and coarse river sand (6:3:1).
How to replant an azalea
The step-by-step transplant process is as follows:
- Remove the old plant from the pot, trying to destroy the earthen ball as little as possible. This is easier to do if you water the soil moderately about 30–45 minutes in advance.
- Using a sharp, disinfected knife, cut off approximately 1.5–2 cm of fringe at the bottom of the earthen ball. You can also make shallow cuts on the sides and slightly fluff the roots.
- Pour expanded clay or other clay into the new pot drainage material layer of at least 3 cm. On top - about the same amount of new substrate.
- Place the earthen ball in a new container, add fresh soil. Gently shake the pot several times to distribute the soil evenly.
- Water the plant thoroughly. The best option is to immerse it in a basin of water for 45–60 minutes. room temperature, then allow excess moisture to drain.
- Place the pot in a wide planter, filling the space between the walls with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. As it dries, it needs to be moistened.
- The roots of the azalea will gradually become exposed - this is a natural process. To prevent them from drying out, mulch the soil in the pot with peat chips every 4-6 months. wood shavings, sawdust, pine needles.
Features of transplantation after purchase
Flower growers advise replanting azaleas immediately after purchase. This must be done due to the fact that plants, as a rule, are in transport soil and are treated with various synthetic substances to preserve their presentation. However, azaleas are often purchased while they are in bloom, and replanting in this state is difficult for the plant to tolerate. Therefore, the choice remains with the florist.
How to properly care for a plant
Watering: when, how, how much
The substrate in the container with the plant should always be slightly moist. Both overdrying (even short-term) of the soil and stagnation of moisture in the pot are equally destructive for the flower. Alternate between regular watering from a watering can with a long narrow spout and the immersion method. After 4–5 hours, excess moisture must be drained from the pan.
IN optimal conditions For azaleas, one watering every two days is enough. In extreme heat, their number can reach up to two per day. Very warm water the plant does not like it, just warm it to room temperature. For sanitary purposes and to increase air humidity, it is useful to spray the azalea and the surrounding air with a fine spray bottle weekly or even twice a week (except for the flowering period).
Only soft water is used, ideally rain or melt water. Tap water should be left for at least a day with the addition of citric acid or apple cider vinegar (until a precipitate forms in the form of whitish or grayish flakes), passed through a filter or boiled.
Feeding: what fertilizers will be needed
Azaleas require feeding from late spring to mid-summer, as well as during the formation of buds, at the end of flowering and at the beginning of active growth. When new flower buds are formed, natural organic matter (infusions) is most beneficial cow dung and bird droppings), alternating with complex mineral fertilizers. It is enough to feed the plant once every 20–25 days. Forming buds love superphosphate (1.5 g per 1 liter of water). Azaleas are watered with the solution twice with an interval of 7–10 days. The rest of the time, ammonium sulfate is suitable, ammonium nitrate and other nitrogen-containing fertilizers (2 g per 1 liter of water).
Azalea really does not like chlorine, so before purchasing a specific product, carefully study the composition.
Trimming
The more magnificent the bush, the fewer buds it produces. Therefore, adult plants are pruned immediately after flowering, leaving 4–5 leaves on all branches formed last year. Shoots that violate the crown configuration, are curved, or weakly growing - are cut to the ground. Young shoots next to the developing flower buds are carefully plucked out.
Formation of a tree on a headquarters (bonsai)
Using pruning, you can create a tree with a trunk approximately 20–30 cm high. To do this, choose the strongest and most even shoot, getting rid of all the rest. It is fixed in a vertical position, tied to a support and turning the pot every 2-3 days. All lateral growth is immediately removed. When the stem reaches the desired height, the tip of the shoot is pinched. From the shoots that then appear, 4–6 are selected, located at an equal distance from each other around the trunk. Then you can form another 2-3 tiers.
It is much easier to form a beautiful bush. Young azaleas are pinched at a height of 10–15 cm. The same is done with the shoots that appear annually until the plant takes the shape of a regular ball or close to it.
Bloom
To prolong the pleasing spectacle as much as possible, it is recommended to cover the pot with azalea with ice or snow. This inhibits the development of leaf buds, they practically do not grow, and accordingly, the flowers last longer.
As soon as the buds wither, they are immediately removed. After flowering ends, be sure to cut off the resulting “boxes” so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening seeds.
If you cover the pot with ice, you can make your azalea bloom longer.
Rest period
In mid-November or early December, azaleas begin a dormant period that lasts for one and a half to two months. Water “resting” azaleas very carefully, exclusively through a tray, spraying no more than once every two weeks (preferably not the plants themselves, but the air around them). Be sure to lower the temperature.
Common mistakes of a beginning gardener
Azalea is quite capricious and most often reacts to errors in care by the absence or short duration of flowering, and deformation of the buds. But other alarming symptoms may also arise. Therefore, you need to learn how to correctly interpret the signals given by the plant.
Table: how azalea reacts to errors in care (why the plant can dry out, shed leaves, look lethargic)
| What does the plant look like? | What is the reason? |
| The leaves droop, lose their tone, and become covered with wrinkles. | Too little and/or infrequent watering or low humidity air. Other possible causes are extreme heat and/or bright sun. |
| Azalea quickly sheds its blooming flowers. | |
| The leaves are turning yellow. | Unsuitable clay substrate or use of hard and/or cold water for irrigation. |
| Leaves fall. | The indoor air is too dry. Other possible reason- unsuitable temperature (high or low). |
| Leaves and young shoots dry out. | Lack of light or improper feeding. This can also be caused by untimely transplantation (especially during flowering) or another stressful situation. |
| Growth is inhibited and very few buds are formed. | Unsuitable soil, too narrow a pot that does not allow the root system to develop properly, or lack of fertilizer. |
What to do to resuscitate an azalea
Almost all problems that arise when growing azaleas can be solved.
Azalea doesn't bloom
The plant can bloom if the following factors are met:
- low temperature during the dormant period (6–8 o C), necessary for the formation of flower buds;
- the plant should be shaded from direct light;
- sufficient, but not excessive watering;
- proper pruning;
- fertilizing with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium;
- choosing the right pot (shallow and low).
Leaves wither and fall
Leaves will fall off due to excessively dry air in the room. A running central heating system should be kept away from the azalea. Do not forget to spray the air, maintaining the required humidity (about 70%).
The plant is drying up
An azalea can dry out due to several factors. To avoid this problem, you should:
- adjust the feeding regime;
- provide the plant with good lighting;
- replant carefully, without damaging the roots and leaves;
- Water and spray the air in a timely manner.
Azalea turns black
Perhaps it fungal disease, for example, fusarium, or pest damage. To revive the bush, you will have to resort to help chemicals. Be also prepared to repot the plant, as fresh soil will help the plant recover.
Leaves curl and turn yellow
This is how the plant can react to an unsuitable substrate. If you are a beginner gardener, it is better not to make the mixture yourself, but to purchase the necessary soil in a specialized store. In addition to this reason, pay attention to the water used for irrigation - for irrigation, azaleas need soft, room temperature water.
The leaves are drying up
In this case, you also need to reconsider the feeding regime. The cause of drying leaves may be insufficient watering. You need to lower the pot into a container filled with water.
Video: the difficulties of growing azaleas
How to protect azalea from pests
Azaleas have a specific pest - the azalea moth. But this does not mean that it is not attacked by other insects, which are not stopped even by the poisonousness of the plant. However, pathogenic fungi are the most dangerous for the flower.
A number of simple preventive measures will help to significantly reduce the risk of infection:
- placing newly acquired plants in quarantine for at least a month;
- placing indoor flowers and bouquets as far as possible from each other, if possible in different rooms;
- regular ventilation of the room and spraying of azaleas (except for the flowering period);
- strict adherence to plant care recommendations, especially those related to watering and fertilizing;
- using only sterilized soil, clean pots and tools;
- weekly irradiation of azalea leaves quartz lamp within 2–3 minutes.
Table: how to save azalea from diseases and pests
| Disease or pest | External manifestations | Control measures |
| Fusarium | Yellowing and withering leaves, rotting shoots and roots. |
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| Septoria | Rapidly growing red-brown or brown spots on leaves. |
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| Phyllosticosis | Small irregular ash-gray or brownish spots on back side leaves. |
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| Azalea moth | The caterpillars scrape tissue from the leaves, which become almost transparent, dry out and fall off. |
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| Spider mite | A thin cobweb entwining the leaves and buds, small brown-black dots on the underside of the leaves. |
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| Gray-brown tubercles on the leaves. Gradually they increase in volume, the surrounding tissues change color to red or yellow. |
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| Whitish coating and lumps on the underside of the leaf and at the base of the shoots. |
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| Small whitish butterflies that rise from a flower whenever you touch it. |
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| Thin silvery and yellowish streaks, small brown ones on the underside of the leaves. |
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Photo gallery: photos of common diseases and pests
Spider mites are not insects, so special preparations are used to combat them - acaricides. The scale insect is protected by a durable shell, therefore folk remedies they are ineffective against it. If no measures are taken, the leaves affected by the mealybug will become deformed and dry out. Adult whiteflies are flying insects, so sticky tape for catching flies works well against them. Thrips are insects that feed on plant sap; even the toxicity of azaleas does not stop themFlower propagation at home
It is quite difficult to propagate azaleas at home. This applies to all methods.
How to root cuttings
The most suitable time for cuttings is late spring-early summer.
- Cut cuttings from young, semi-lignified shoots at an angle of approximately 45º with a sharp, clean knife. Remove the leaves from the bottom half. The optimal cutting length is 5–8 cm.
- Sprinkle the wounds with any powdered root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin) or dip the planting material in a solution of one of the preparations for 5–6 hours.
- For rooting, plant the cuttings in containers filled with a mixture of peat chips, perlite, vermiculite, deepening them to 1–2 cm. Cover them with transparent bags, cut plastic bottles or glass covers.
- Place the pots in a warm place with a temperature of 22–25ºС, provide bottom heating and bright but diffused light. As it dries, spray the soil with water warmed to room temperature and ventilate the plantings daily for 1–2 hours.
- After 1.5–2 months, roots should appear. When the azalea produces 2-3 new leaves, transplant it into an unheated container filled with coniferous soil.
- After 2-3 months, pinch the top of the bush for more intensive branching. If buds appear, remove them.
- Next spring, replant in soil suitable for adult plants and care for them as usual.
Video: how to propagate azalea from cuttings
Graft
The method is used mainly for rare varieties or for those that are difficult to take root. As a rootstock, use a sprout of another, less capricious azalea, 15–20 cm long with well-developed roots. It is necessary to have an “eye” (growth point) on both cuttings.
- Using a sharp, disinfected razor blade, make oblique cuts of approximately the same length and no more than 0.5 mm deep on the rootstock and scion.
- Combine mother plant and the cutting, wrap it in polyethylene.
- Place the azalea in a mini-greenhouse at home or under a large one. glass jar in soil suitable for mature plants.
- Do not allow the soil to dry out; ventilate the plant daily. Bottom heating is not needed, but bright diffused light and a temperature of about 25ºC are required.
- As soon as the scion begins to grow, remove the cover. Gradually (over about a month) accustom the azalea to its usual conditions.
Germination of seeds
At home, this method is rarely used. Azalea seeds do not ripen due to the fact that the boxes containing them are cut off immediately after flowering. In addition, such plants do not always retain varietal characteristics - the shade of the petals and their fullness. It makes sense to purchase only seeds collected a maximum of three months before purchase.
To grow an azalea from seeds, you need the following algorithm of actions:
- Fill shallow containers with peat chips. It needs to be moistened with a spray bottle and leveled.
- In early spring, sow the seeds without covering them with soil.
- Cover the container with glass or plastic film, place it on the sunniest windowsill. Provide bottom heating.
- Ventilate the plantings daily and spray the substrate with soft, warm water.
- The first shoots will appear in 10–12 days, mass shoots in 20–25. On average, 7 out of 10 seeds germinate.
- When the first pair (false leaves) have fully unfurled, pick up the azaleas, planting them 3-4 cm apart. Bury them all the way down to the leaves.
- At the end of summer, move the seedlings into individual pots with a diameter of 5–7 cm, filled with soil suitable for adult plants.
Azalea (rhododendron) is rightfully on the list of the most beautiful indoor plants. Bright flowers bloom in the depths of winter, adding a unique atmosphere to the room. However, this beauty is very whimsical and requires constant attention.
- 1 Who is Azalea
- 2 Planting and transplanting
- 3 Azalea care
- 4 Reproduction
- 5 Reviews from flower growers
- 6 Video: nuances of growing azaleas
Who is Azalea
The homeland of azaleas (or rhododendrons) is the humid highlands of the northern hemisphere. In nature, the height of these plants ranges from 10 cm to 10 m.
When in the mid-18th century, the Swedish scientist Carl Linnaeus described 3 evergreen and 6 deciduous plants from this family, he classified the first as rhododendrons, and the latter as azaleas. Since then, rhododendrons, which are grown in closed ground(at home or in greenhouses) are called azaleas.
This plant is quite whimsical. However, all the care efforts are justified by the luxurious flowers that azalea bestows on its owners.
The stems and leaves of the plant are poisonous; azalea should be kept away from small children and pets.
Azalea blooms very beautifully
Azaleas varieties
- Indian. The main ancestor of varieties indoor azaleas- a natural species of Indian rhododendron, or Simsa, growing in humid mountain forests. He gave rise to many different hybrids. The flowers are large, bright, pink-red, up to 5 cm in diameter, usually located 2–6 in the leaf axils. There are other colors: white, yellow, red, cream, and two-color.
- Japanese. The flowers are smaller than those of the Indian one. Japanese azalea is grown in the garden mainly in regions with a mild and humid climate. Flower colors are white, lilac, pink, red and red-orange.
- Deciduous varieties. Series hybrid varieties, descended from the Pontian azalea. These are shrubs 1–1.5 m in height. The flowers are very bright: white, yellow, orange, red, pink. They bloom at the same time or before the leaves bloom. Winter-hardy, can withstand temperatures down to -29°C.
Photo gallery: azalea varieties
Deciduous varieties of azaleas are winter-hardy
Japanese azalea is grown in regions with mild and humid climates.
Indian azalea - the ancestor of the most popular varieties
Living conditions in different seasons (table)
| Season | Temperature | Lighting | Humidity |
| Spring Summer | 10–15оС. This temperature is difficult summer time, even in middle lane Russia. Therefore, azalea rarely blooms in summer. | Direct exposure to sunlight is unacceptable; diffused light is required. You can take it out into the garden and dig it directly into a pot in partial shade. | 70–80%. Under the pot there should be a tray with damp pebbles or moss. |
| Autumn winter | In October-December - 6–10°C (for successful formation of flower buds), in January-February - 15–17°C (this temperature stimulates flowering). | Scattered light. | Spray every day. The drops should be small, because large ones leave spots on the plant. During flowering, refrain from spraying. |
Planting and transplanting
As a rule, azaleas are bought or given as a flowering plant. After the plant has flowered, the plant needs to be replanted.
Rarely found houseplants that need acidic soil with an acidity level of pH 4–4.5. For planting, it is better to buy special soil for azaleas (or acidophilic plants, i.e. those that love acidic soil), since it is quite difficult to collect it yourself. Don't forget about the drainage at the bottom of the pot.
When transplanting, tender roots do not need to be freed from the ground.
The azalea's root system is superficial, so the pot will need to be shallow and wide. The roots are very tender, so the azalea is replanted by transferring an earthen clod. Then they simply add it to the new pot. required amount land.
Azaleas up to 3 years old are replanted annually in late spring, and older ones - once every 2 or 3 years.
Azalea care
Watering
The soil in the pot should always be moist - but not soggy. For irrigation, it is ideal to use rain or melt water, or, in the absence of such, settled water. Since azaleas love an acidic environment, you can periodically add lemon juice to the watering water (5-7 drops per 1 liter of water). Many gardeners use this method of watering: they pour it not into the pot at the root, but into a tray, and the plant itself “pulls out” the required amount of water.
An azalea must have a tray under the pot - water should be poured into it
Top dressing
For feeding, you should use a special fertilizer for azaleas. Feeding schedule: in spring and summer - weekly (the fertilizer must be prepared in accordance with the instructions). In winter and autumn, when buds are forming, the plant should be watered with a superphosphate solution (15 g of substance per 10 liters of water).
The best fertilizer for azaleas is a special one, which can be purchased at a flower shop.
Trimming
Proper, timely pruning of an azalea bush is the key to high-quality, abundant flowering. Pruning is done in May. New shoots are pinched so that 4–5 leaves remain on them. If about flower bud a shoot appears and is cut off.
You can choose the type of crown - tree-like or bush-like. To make a small tree, you need to select the strongest branch (this will be the trunk), and cut off the remaining shoots. The trunk should be tied to a support for stability. When the height of the shoot reaches the right size, the top is pinched, after which the plant begins to branch. After this, you sometimes need to turn the plant, pinching the shoots, achieving a ball shape.
Pruning allows you to give the plant different shapes
To form a bush, shoots are pinched at a distance of 10 cm from the surface of the ground. To ensure uniform development of the branches, turn the pot from time to time.
In subsequent years, this form is maintained, and weak branches that thicken the crown and unhealthy branches also need to be removed.
Bush form of azalea
Flowering period
Azalea flowers are magnificent - their decorative nature attracts gardeners. Cut flowers stay fresh for a long time; one inflorescence can easily replace a bouquet. The plant blooms in winter, bringing spring freshness into winter everyday life.
The bud, swelling, produces 2–4 buds. When the flowers fade, they need to be removed along with the flower stalks, then the bush will delight with flowering longer. It is also necessary to remove the seed pods, since the plant expends energy on ripening the seeds.
Blooming azaleas are an amazingly beautiful sight
Rest period
At the end of spring, when flowering ends, azaleas enter a dormant period. The plant is pruned, replanted if necessary, removed to partial shade or taken out into the garden. Watering, spraying and fertilizing do not stop.
After flowering, the plant is pruned, replanted if necessary, and removed to partial shade.
Table: care errors and ways to eliminate them
| Problem | Cause | Solutions |
| Leaves fall | The balance of conditions of detention is disturbed - too dry or too wet air, temperature too low or too high | Control humidity levels and temperature |
| Spider mite | If it does not bloom, spray the plant often (the mite does not like a humid environment), and when flowering, use a soap solution and chemicals. | |
| Leaves turn yellow | Chlorosis develops | Acidify water for irrigation. Monitor the temperature level (15–16°C). Spray with Ferovit or magnesium sulfate. |
| Damage by scale insects (you can recognize it by the brown plaques that appear on the leaves) | Treat with soapy water. If there are large numbers of scale insects, use chemicals. | |
| The leaves are drying | Azalea moth (visible to the naked eye, has the shape of a caterpillar) | Collect pests by hand. Treat the plant with a chemical. |
| Low air humidity | Spray, place on a tray with wet pebbles. | |
| Heat | Observe temperature regime(15–16oC). | |
| The plant is exposed to direct sunlight | Provide azaleas with diffused lighting. | |
| Insufficient feeding | Adjust the feeding regime. | |
| Little light | Provide azaleas with good indirect lighting. | |
| Root rot due to excess water | Reduce watering. You may have to replant the plant: remove it from the pot, wrap the roots with thin paper to absorb excess moisture, and leave for 2 days. Plant in new soil. | |
| Leaves dry out during flowering | Not enough water | Provide the flower with more water. |
| The leaves turn black | Thrips damage ( small insect, not always visible to the naked eye) | Treat with Karbofos (according to instructions). |
| Rhododendron mite infestation | Treat with Diazinon (according to instructions). | |
| The plant withers, does not bloom, or blooms poorly | Poor quality soil | Replant the flower in high-quality soil. Adjust the feeding regime. |
| The tips of the leaves turn brown | Watering with hard water | Use soft, settled water for irrigation. |
Photo gallery: problems when growing azaleas
The cause of wilting may be poor quality soil.
Spots on leaves may be signs of chlorosis
There can be many reasons why leaves dry out.
Reproduction
Azalea reproduces:
- seeds;
- cuttings;
- dividing the bush.
Propagation by seeds is difficult and difficult; this method is used by professionals.
At home the best way propagate azalea - cuttings.
Cuttings are harvested after flowering
The cuttings are planted vertically, buried 2 cm in the ground.
For better rooting, you need to arrange a greenhouse for the cuttings
An azalea grown from a cutting will delight you with its flowering after 2 years.
Video: rooting azalea
Bush division
Azalea can also be propagated by dividing the bush. When replanting, with the utmost care, a 3-4 year old bush is divided in two and planted in another pot.