I admit, sharpening a tool has always caused me quiet horror. You need to think not only about the rotating sharpening stone, which is a source of potential danger, but also maintain the sharpening angle... I think the article will be useful for beginning brainiacs, and I kindly ask experienced comrades to supplement the information below or tell us about your method of maintaining the sharpening angle .

Materials

• Wooden block;
• Screw.

Tools

• Protractor;
• Malka (device) - carpentry and locksmith tool for marking and measuring angles, drawing parallel lines. Consists of two parts, fastened together with a clamping screw. The thicker part (block - base) is pressed against the workpiece, markings are made along the thin part (ruler). Sometimes a scale for measuring angles is applied between the two parts of the fish. Large fry can be used for construction work;
• Drill with wood drill;
• Screwdriver.

Step 1: 59 degrees

Draw two straight lines on paper at an angle of 59 degrees. The goal is to sharpen the drill at this angle.

Step 2: Mark the corner on the block

Using a small tool, transfer the angle of 59 degrees to wooden block. I used hardwood as a blank. The thickness of the bar is 15 mm. The guide will be a screw with a fine thread pitch for a slotted screwdriver, so through hole there should be a little smaller diameter than the diameter of the screw so that it screws tightly into the block. Drilling into wood with a drill is easier when you start drilling at an angle. We determine by eye the place where it is most convenient to place the screw.

Step 3: Screw in and check the angle

We screw the screw into the block. You should determine in advance the maximum diameter of the drill that will be sharpened. For this crafts the drill diameter will be greater than 15 mm. Therefore, you should choose a screw of sufficient length so that it passes through the block and protrudes halfway from the largest diameter sharpened drill.

If the angle at which the screw exits the block does not match the reference line, drill another hole and try again.

Step 4: Use a reference

Turn the screw a few turns so that the end of the thread is above the center of the drill.

Once you have sharpened one side (using the threads of the screw as marks), turn the drill bit halfway and look at the marks on the screw. Repeat the operation for the other side of the drill.

Step 5: Sharpening

Regarding drill sharpening, there is a detailed article on the website. In addition to the material presented in it, I suggest watching the video of the English-speaking Kulibin.

Thank you for your attention)

Any cutting attachments for a drill become dull during operation, which, in fact, does not require proof. However, do not rush to throw them away, since you can return the nozzle to its original functionality by sharpening it. Next we will describe in detail how to do this.

When is sharpening required?

If wood drill bits can be used long time and at the same time remain sharp, then the metal tool becomes unusable very quickly. Certainly, experienced master identifies a dull drill by eye or by its first contact with the metal surface. If you are a beginner, you can determine the need for sharpening of a tool by the following criteria:

• during the drilling process, creaking and whistling occur;
• the tool heats up much faster than usual;
• the quality of the hole is low - there are jagged and burrs;
• chips come out of only one spiral groove (this sign may also indicate improper sharpening).

Keep in mind that if you use a blunt tip you are putting yourself at risk and it may break. In this case, its flying parts can cause serious injury. In addition, the drill can “bite”. In such a situation, if the drill is powerful or you are working on a machine, the part is torn out of your hands, which often also ends in injury. Therefore, under no circumstances should you delay sharpening or replacing the tip.

Main parameters of the part

So that you can properly sharpen the tip, first of all, let's look at its main elements, which include:

• cutting part (cutting edge), formed by the convergence of the groove surface and the rear surface;
• the front surface, which is located under the cutting edge;
• back surface, which is located behind the edge:
• a bridge located between two rear surfaces.

During operation of the nozzle, the cutting edge, bridge and rear surfaces suffer the most. Therefore, the restoration of the tool occurs by sharpening the rear surfaces to which the cutting edge and the bridge are adjacent. However, not everything is so simple: in order for the edge to become sharp again and a clear bridge to form, the sharpening angles must correspond to the values ​​​​from the table:

Maintaining these values ​​will allow the cutting edge to always be the first to contact the surface of the workpiece, which will ensure maximum tool efficiency. The length of the cutting edge depends on the apex angle. Compliance with this will allow the chips to fit well into the groove and come out. If you make the angle more acute, the width of the cut strip will increase, as a result of which the chips will clog the groove and will no longer be removed from the hole with all the ensuing consequences. An angle that is too obtuse will reduce the effectiveness of the drill.

Sharpening on a sharpening machine

At home it will not be difficult to use a regular sharpening machine. The only thing is that it is desirable that the machine be equipped with a tool rest, i.e. a small platform located in front of the working surface of the sharpening disc. The distance between the tool rest and the end of the circle should be no more than one millimeter.

The optimal rotation speed of the grinding wheel is one and a half thousand revolutions per minute.

If the nozzle is very dull, i.e. the cutting edges with the rear surfaces have become asymmetrical; in order to properly sharpen the tool, it is advisable to make a simple device by following these steps:

• Draw a straight line on the tool rest at an angle of 60 degrees relative to the working surface of the abrasive disc. The line should be located opposite the working surface;
• Attach a piece of metal corner to the tool rest, aligning it along the intended line, as shown in the photo below. Those. the corner should also be located at an angle of 60 degrees in relation to the working surface of the circle. You can use a clamp to secure the corner. If you sharpen frequently, you can drill holes and secure the angle with bolts.

Thanks to this device, you can attach a drill to the back of the corner with your own hands and thus ensure a back surface angle of 60 degrees. Now that everything is ready, you can get to work. First of all, you need to install the coarse abrasive disc and turn on the machine. Then you need to pick up the drill correctly. To do this, place two fingers of your right hand on the rest, and place the tool to be sharpened on them. As a result, the fingers will serve as a support. With your left hand, grasp the shank of the tool you are sharpening. Turn the drill itself so that the cutting edge that you will sharpen is strictly horizontal.

Now place the tool with its side plane against the back of the angle and bring it with your hands to the working surface of the sharpener. Right hand should remain motionless, and the left one, which holds the tool by the shank, should move slightly in a vertical plane, rocking the drill. Thus, sharpening should occur from the cutting edge to the end of the flank surface.

During the sharpening process, large number sparks, so be sure to wear safety glasses when performing this operation.

Using this pattern, make several rocking movements with your left hand up/down. There is no need to strain your hands too much, as the drill will not be pulled out, so just be careful. Having sharpened one back surface, you should rotate the drill 180 degrees with your left hand and sharpen the second back surface in the same way. Upon completion of the work, make sure that the sharpening angle of the drill, i.e. The apex angle is 120 degrees, which is optimal for a metal tool. Also, make sure that the edges and backrests are symmetrical. If the tool is far from ideal, it needs to be sharpened further.

It must be said that as a result of moving the shank in a vertical plane, the rear surface is rounded. Therefore, such sharpening is called conical. It is used for drills with a diameter of more than three millimeters. Correctly sharpening a thinner metal drill is even easier - its cutting part is pressed against the plane of the sharpener and sharpened without any rocking. As a result, the back surface acquires one flat plane. Therefore, such sharpening is called single-plane. The grip of the drill during this processing is shown in the photo below.

After sharpening is completed and the tool has acquired the correct shape, you need to perform fine-tuning. The fact is that the surface after sharpening with a coarse abrasive is far from ideal. Therefore, you need to install a disk with fine abrasive on the machine and remove all roughness. As a result, the surface should be perfectly smooth.

It is necessary to bring the tool to be sharpened to the working surface of the sharpener smoothly so that there is no impact.

To make sure that the job is done correctly, try drilling a hole, maybe not even a deep one, and make sure that the edge is smooth and even. This is the main indicator of a sharpened tool.

Drills for wood can also be sharpened in exactly the same way. The only thing is that their angle at the apex is made more acute - 140 degrees. Accordingly, the tool is brought to the sharpener at an angle of 70 degrees.

No sharpening machine - grinder for all occasions

If you don't have sharpening machine, but at the same time you urgently need to sharpen the drill, you can use a grinder (angle grinder). But keep in mind that a sander is one of the most dangerous hand power tools. Violation of safety precautions when working with it leads to serious injuries and sometimes death. Therefore, if you have no experience working with angle grinders, it is better not to try to save money, but to buy a new attachment.

If you nevertheless decide to sharpen drills with a grinder, use exclusively an end flap wheel for these purposes. In addition, it is desirable that the grinder itself be small, i.e. low-power. The sharpening process is as follows:

1. 1. The grinder is placed on a horizontal plane with the disk up so that the disk is also horizontal. The tool must be held firmly with your left hand, and the power button should also be controlled with the same hand.
2. 2. Then the drill must be brought to the disk and sharpened, trying to maintain the factory angles. The grinder should be turned on at minimum speed.

The disadvantage of this method is that sharpening is carried out “by eye”, so if you have not sharpened metal drills before, it is better to abandon this method. Inept actions can further damage the instrument.

We use the device - when theory is not needed

The easiest way to sharpen a drill for wood or metal, which does not require any skills or knowledge from you, is to use a special device for a drill or screwdriver. The device is a nozzle with holes of different diameters.

To sharpen, you need to put the attachment on the power tool, then insert the tool into the hole corresponding to its diameter and turn it until it stops. Special grooves will fix the drill in the working position. Keep in mind that it is extremely important to position the drill correctly in the hole, as only then will the back surface be machined at the correct angle. After installing the drill, you need to turn on the power tool and wait a while until one side is sharpened. Then the tool to be sharpened must be rotated 180 degrees and the procedure repeated.

The disadvantage of the device is that there is a limitation on the diameter. Minimum diameter The drill bit that can be sharpened is 3–3.5 mm, and the maximum is 10 mm. As a rule, the diameter step is 5 mm. However, for domestic purposes this is quite enough. The cost of such a device ranges from 600 to 4000 rubles, depending on the manufacturer. The most expensive products are from the German manufacturer Bosch.

A few words about repairing concrete drills

All of the sharpening methods described above apply to tools for metal and wood. However, a drill with a pobedit tip can also become dull. At the same time, it behaves in the same way as a metal tool - it drills poorly, quickly overheats and produces an unpleasant high-frequency sound during operation. It must be said that the principle of sharpening Pobedit drills is approximately the same as for metal tools, however, there are some important nuances.

First of all, you need to measure the height of the cutting part of the dull tool. It makes sense to sharpen drills if the height is at least 7-10 mm. If the height is less, it will not be possible to achieve a high-quality result, so it is more profitable to purchase a new nozzle. For sharpening we need a circle with diamond coating. Please note that the carbide tip does not tolerate high temperatures. Therefore, it is necessary to work at minimum speed.

To sharpen a carbide drill correctly, you first need to correct the edges of the tip, which are the first to “lick off” when working on concrete. The corners of the soldering edges must be even, i.e. at 90 degrees. Then the back surfaces are sharpened to the soldering point, as shown in the photo above. If the carbide tip has worn down to the steel, it is necessary to sharpen the front part. Otherwise, the soft steel will come to the surface of the cutting edge, and accordingly, in this case, no efficiency and quality of drilling will be achieved from the tool.

To sharpen a Pobedite drill without overheating it, use a coolant during work - water or machine oil.

As with any other drill, be sure to ensure symmetry. The cutting sides must be the same size. If the center of the axis moves, the effectiveness of the tool will decrease, in addition, the holes will be uneven. There is also one more important rule– the harder the tip, the sharper the apex angle should be. For Pobedit soldering this angle should be 170 degrees.

That, in fact, is all you need to know to sharpen drills yourself.

To improve the quality of their work, craftsmen often make a machine for sharpening drills with their own hands. When using drills, you need to pay attention to their sharpness and absence of damage - the quality of drilling depends on this. Previously, sharpening was done by hand, but today you can buy a special machine or make it yourself according to individual parameters.

Features of the drilling process that affect the sharpness of drills

Drilling is ubiquitous in home and industrial settings. In this process, the cutting edges create indentations in the surface as they rotate. Their power is enough to affect most materials, and even metal. The presence of a spiral channel removes work waste and dust, so you can drill without stopping. But these particles wear out the drill device, causing it to wear out. Periodic sharpening can prevent this.

The wear of the drill directly depends on the duration of its use.

Damage occurs most quickly when working with metal and wood. The problem can be noticed when a specific squeaking sound is detected. As a result, not only the quality of drilling deteriorates, but also the heating of the tool increases, which can damage it. If the drill is heavily worn, the deterioration in sharpness can be felt even by touching it.

Types of sharpening:

• Single-plane – used for large drills. This is a strong sharpening that can crush material, so you need to be careful. The part must be moved on a circular surface without shifting its position so as not to damage the surface.
• Conical – used for large drills. They need to be held with both hands, as if you press on the part, it may slip off.
• Finishing is the final stage, which smoothes out isolated irregularities and polishes the surface.

Most often, spiral alloy drills with reinforcing tips are used. There are also flat models for large holes. Regardless of the parameters and diameter, they require sharpening to prevent wear.

What will you need to assemble a drill sharpening machine?

Not only the grinding is responsible for the cutting ability of the drill, but also the angle of the blades - the smaller it is, the better the drilling. The optimal angle is considered to be 90°, wood requires 100°, and 30° is suitable for plastic. Sharpening improves the angle of the cutting edge and centers it. This is done with sanding, which is also used in specialized equipment or when manual sharpening. Machines can be industrial or household, which determines their dimensions and power. Many craftsmen create their own equipment for sharpening - this cheap solution, often as good as the production model.

It is best performed on special machines. The modern market offers large selection such devices, but their parameters do not always meet expectations or the cost is too high. In this case, you can make the machine yourself; it only requires basic technical skills. Despite the lower power home machine, it has a number of advantages compared to industrial devices:

• use of single-phase electricity flow at 220V;
• individual performance settings;
• mobility of equipment when installing limited functionality;
• high performance for required type drill;
• ease of repair and low assembly costs.

The right approach to creating a machine will allow you to obtain an effective sharpening apparatus. To assemble it you need a toggle switch, a plug, a grinding wheel, a fairly strong motor, a set of wires, a stand and an axle. It is important to observe safety precautions, so it is better to cover the machine in a protective case, leaving only the turning circle and the axis visible. To operate the device, they use both a constant power supply and a battery for greater mobility.

Assembling parts into a single device and installing safety elements

It is necessary to provide a surface for mounting the machine. A metal table is suitable for this, on which marks are made for the bolts. Next you need to take a granular disk, which is attached to the electric motor of the future machine. If the diameters of the shaft and disk do not match, they must be aligned using available tools. If there is a match, the washer is placed on the shaft, after which the disk and, again, the washer. The shaft must first be threaded. Next, install the fastening nut, and put the anti-sway attachment on the circle.

You can add a bushing if the shaft has a smaller diameter for the stone. A hole is made in it, with which it is attached to the shaft, since the bushing will improve fixation and will rotate together with the disk. If you cannot choose the right electric motor, you can use a motor with washing machine. Wires can also be installed from it if they have three contacts in suitable condition. Next, the winding is connected to the phase line of two buttons responsible for turning the machine on and off. Thus, the device will be triggered by simple button commands.

The electric motor does not pose any danger open form, but he should provide protection. The motor can be hidden in a metal casing so that dust does not accumulate and moisture does not penetrate. Since a lot of chips are released when sharpening drills, this creates a danger. You need to build a protective glass screen that will protect your eyes. Of course, you can use glasses, but metal particles may fly into your face. It is also advisable to do protective cover. A tire is suitable for this, part of which will cover one third of the sharpening disc.

Sharpening parts on a homemade machine

If you can’t get an electric motor, you can get by with a simple drill. It is not necessary to buy a new device; an old device in which the engine operates will also work. To create a machine, you need to fix it on the surface, and install a universal disk (can be replaced with a grinding wheel) or bushing in the chuck. When you turn on the drill, it will be suitable for working on drill bits. To achieve the best performance, you need to approach the sharpening process correctly. Since drills have two threads, it is important to maintain the same dimensions when machining them so that the axis of rotation corresponds to the center of the drill.

Before you start sharpening, you need to check the reliability of the disk and protective elements. It will take half an hour for a high-quality result. Each drill material has its own sharpening characteristics and rotation direction, which must be studied before work. IN table machine a sharpener (abrasive disc or emery) of the coarsest format is installed. This will correct the main damage. After this, you need to switch to a fine abrasive that will grind the surface. It is important to maintain one sharpening angle, although the drill moves out in the process. If this is missed, there is a risk of dismounting and injury.

It is important to avoid overheating of drills. This destroys their plates, so you need to periodically immerse them in water (this cannot be done if the drill is already hot). Otherwise, it is enough to sharpen drills simple skill. Following the procedure and safety rules will allow you to quickly sharpen drills to homemade machine and do without expensive equipment.

Or a workshop makes work much easier and allows you to enjoy working with it. The same applies to drills. But even the most expensive of them become dull or break over time. But not everyone, especially novice craftsmen, have the skill to properly sharpen drills, and constantly buying new ones is quite expensive. For such cases, you can assemble a special device for sharpening them. This machine is quite simple, but can still greatly facilitate this process.

It is especially convenient for working with small diameters, since they are the most difficult to sharpen.

The machine consists of a sharpening machine and a device for attaching a drill.

Its operating principle is as follows: The drill is rigidly fixed to the helical part in a special vise. Their angle in relation to the whetstone is set using a square; for metal drills it is 60 degrees. Thus, one of the edges is sharpened, then the device is turned over and the other edge is sharpened.

The difference between this project and many of those posted online, according to the author, is the use of these same jewelry vises as a retainer. They are commercially available and cost little.

Here's what they look like:

The principle of their operation is the same as that of ordinary yews: the handle rotates in one direction - the jaws unclench, rotates in the opposite direction - the jaws are clamped, you can fix the workpiece or part.

To use them in the machine you need to modify them a little. The original rivets are removed, these homemade plates are installed and riveted again.

When clamping the drill, the cutting edges should be parallel to the jaws.

Next, four holes are drilled in the newly attached plates, equidistant from their center. They should be located at an angle of 90 degrees with respect to the drill clamped in the vise.

Later, alternately (for each face) an axis will pass through these two holes, which will fix the entire system. The result will be a “swing” effect. Much attention should be paid to marking the holes, since the quality of sharpening the drills depends on their location.

The supports of this “swing” are in this case two hulls from under the gutted ones serve door locks, but they can be made from scratch by cutting racks from metal or wood.

They are rigidly attached to wooden platform.
Four screws are screwed in at its four edges to adjust the desired height.

It would be best to place sharpening machine and a rocking chair on one panel.

The vices are installed between the posts and hung on the axle.

The device is installed under the right angle(60 degrees) to the surface of the circle and one of the edges is sharpened.

We turn the vise 180 degrees, the axis is threaded through the opposite holes, and the other edge is sharpened.

The finished result turned out quite well, considering (according to the author) the great wear of the old vise. The photo shows a drill with a diameter of 1.5 mm.

When working with hard workpieces, work surface drills wear out quickly. A dull drill becomes very hot and loses strength. This occurs due to the “releasing” of the metal. The tool must be sharpened periodically. However, this applies not only to drills.

Drills are inexpensive devices. In any case, those models that are used in household. However, it is wasteful to buy a new tip every time it becomes dull.

There are factory-made sharpening devices, but this violates the concept of economical use of home tools.

Wood drills practically do not become dull, except that the tool can be “driven” at high speeds into a resinous workpiece. Pobedite tips cannot be sharpened with stones. All that remains is to sharpen the drill for metal. Many experienced locksmiths carry out this procedure without any equipment.

However, the accuracy of the work leaves much to be desired, and not everyone has an eye home handyman developed so professionally. In any case, minimal mechanization is necessary.

How to make a homemade device for sharpening drills?

First of all, you need to acquire a means of control. No matter how you sharpen the drill, you need a template to check the accuracy of the work.

Conventional drills for working with ferrous metals have an edge angle of 115-120 degrees. If you have to work with different materials– check out the table of angles:

Processed material	sharpening angle
Steel, cast iron, carbide bronze	115-120
Brass alloys, soft bronze	125-135
Red copper	125
Aluminum and soft alloys based on it	135
Ceramics, granite	135
Wood of any species	135
Magnesium and alloys based on it	85
Silumin	90-100
Plastic, textolite	90-100

Knowing these values, you can prepare several templates and, in accordance with them, sharpen yourself. In this case, you can use the same drill for different workpieces, you just need to change the angle of the top of the working area.

The simplest, but very effective tool for sharpening is bushings. different diameters, fixed to some foundation.
Schematic drawing of the device in the illustration:

IMPORTANT! The tool should not dangle in the sleeve; an error of only one degree will reduce the quality of drilling.

It is best to make a whole clip of copper or aluminum tubes, under standard sizes drills Or drill into a block of soft material enough holes. The main thing is to install a comfortable tool rest on your sharpener, which will allow you to move the sharpening device at the right angle and serve as a reliable support.

Our grandfathers used this method. Only an oak block was used as a material for the manufacture of a sharpening machine - an angle.