Step-by-step construction of a frame bath with your own hands. Building a frame bathhouse with your own hands - construction features and step-by-step construction instructions

What could be more pleasant than after completing work at your summer cottage, take a steam bath in your own bathhouse, wash off the dirt and relax your soul and body? Of course, a luxurious bathhouse with a swimming pool in the country is an unaffordable luxury for many, so it’s worth taking a closer look at the projects of small buildings and building the one you like with your own hands, investing a minimum of money and getting maximum benefit and pleasure.

A small bathhouse can be built using frame technology, laid out from foam/gas/cinder blocks, bricks, or a frame made of logs or timber. The most environmentally friendly material is wood, but bricks and blocks are more durable, reliable and fireproof.

Table. Comparative table of prices for materials for the construction of bath walls

Material	Make/model/type/grade	Size/section, mm	Price in rubles
	M150	250*120*65	RUB 16.90 per piece (240 pieces on a pallet)
	First grade	100*100*6000	Price per 1 m3 from 5500 to 6700 rubles.
	First grade	150*150*6000	5500-6900 rub. for 1 cubic meter.
	First grade	40*100*6000	7500 rub. for 1 m3
	2.3 grade	40*150*6000	5500 rub. for 1 m3
	-	9*1250*2500	548
	-	12*1250*2500	802
	-	60*250*50	40 rub. per piece (133 pieces in one cubic meter)

Prices for foam blocks

foam block

Economy bath project

Having looked at the prices for materials, you will notice that it is more profitable to build a bathhouse from blocks or Canadian technology. Moreover, the latter will be more profitable if some of the materials are used or low-grade (for example, instead of an edged board, you can use an unedged one, adding color to a country bathhouse). More accurate data on material consumption can be obtained after drawing up a project and estimate.

Before starting construction, it is extremely important to think through the design of the bathhouse, calculate the amount of materials, note all dimensions and at the same time plan not only the location of the premises, but also the furniture in them.

Installation of a shelf in a steam room Selecting a bath size

The main room in any, even the smallest bathhouse is the steam room. There must be two or three floors of shelves and a heater. Even country cottage area is small, and the bathhouse is planned to be very modest; the steam room cannot be made with an area of ​​3-4 square meters based on the simultaneous stay of two people (visitors should be comfortable steaming with brooms, sitting and lying on the shelves at full height). Such standards are determined by safety considerations (in a very cramped steam room it is easy to get burned on a hot stove or scald your skin with hot steam).

Also, if the entire stove is located entirely in the steam room and fuel is loaded from the same room, it is worth increasing the usable area of ​​the room by another 1-2 meters to make it convenient to store and add firewood to the firebox. Directly in front of the stove, a pre-furnace sheet measuring 1x1 m must be laid, which is also noted on the plan diagram of the future bathhouse.

The bathhouse certainly includes water treatments, so you should think about a small shower located in a separate room or adjacent to the steam room. The second option, when the steam room and washing room are combined, allows you to save space and reduce the cost of installing sewer drains and interior partitions.

The last important room of the bathhouse is the dressing room or dressing room. There should be benches and hangers for visitors, a cabinet for bath accessories, and possibly a small table. It is also possible and preferable to have the heater located in the steam room, and the loading door opens into the dressing room, which allows you to save on heating.

In an economy bath you can do without:

• plumbing system. But you will have to equip a stove with a tank and bring water in buckets manually;
• separate bathroom. These amenities can be taken outside or into a country house if the bathhouse in the country house will be used only in the warm season.

But you can’t do without electricity and sewerage, so it is advisable to order or build a septic tank / cesspool / drainage hole, and also extend a power line to the site where the bathhouse is being built, because steaming by candlelight is very inconvenient.

Be sure to indicate on the plan diagram:

• dimensions of the building and each room separately;
• ceiling height and overall height of the bath;
• furnace location;
• the sides into which the doors will open, including the firebox;
• location of windows (in the steam room the window is located at a height of 185 to 195 cm from the floor and not above the shelf);
• location of the socket and switch, shield and lamps (only products with a moisture protection level higher than IP54 are used).

Below are several projects of small one-story country baths.

Video - Designing a bathhouse

Video - Bathhouse project. Compilation

Construction of a small frame economy bathhouse at the dacha

Let's start with the base of the bathhouse - the foundation. Since the bathhouse will be small and relatively light, there will be no need to pour a monolithic slab or make a buried reinforced tape. For one-story bathhouse A columnar foundation made of blocks or asbestos pipes with concrete poured into them is sufficient.

Stage 1. Marking

This stage is required for any type of construction. We choose a place on the site where the bathhouse will be located.

Take 4 pegs and a plumb line. We drive the first stake into the soil strictly vertically, that is, we mark the first corner of the house. From this point we set aside the length of one of the walls and drive in the second stake. We tie both pegs with a cord.

We place the third and fourth stakes in the same way. We check the equality of the marking diagonals and, if necessary, adjust the stakes and cord.

We also use a cord to mark the places where the interior partitions will be located.

We arm ourselves with a shovel and remove upper layer soil along with grass inside the cast-off. We level the bottom of the resulting base horizontally and compact it.

Video - Marking the foundation

Stage 2. Foundation

Let's consider the option of arranging a columnar foundation made of concrete blocks measuring 20*20*40 cm. Their price ranges from 45 to 60 rubles per 1 piece. You can use ordinary bricks (13-16 rubles per piece), including used ones.

We take a drill or a shovel and start digging holes measuring 50x50 cm for blocks or 35x35 cm for bricks. The distance between the holes is no more than 2 m, the depth of each is approximately half a meter. The holes should be located in the corners of the house, under load-bearing walls and interior partitions.

We tamp the bottom of each hole, fill it with a layer of sand and crushed stone (each layer up to 10 cm) and repeat the compaction process again.

Fill the crushed stone with liquid cement laitance. We stick one steel rod strictly vertically into the center of each hole.

We lay out bricks or blocks around the rod, 2 pieces at a time. in every row.

The posts should rise 20-30 cm above the soil. We check the horizontalness of the entire base by pulling the rope and using a bubble level. If necessary, we compensate for unevenness with a layer of cement mortar.

We cover each column with a piece of roofing felt.

Stage 3. Economy bath frame

For the frame you can use timber 100*100 cm or 150*150 cm. load-bearing elements It's not worth saving. It is also advisable to impregnate the wood with a fire-retardant composition.

The lower harness consists of 4 beams.

Connecting corners using the “claw” or “half-tree” method.

Connecting the beams of the lower trim

We cut threads on the reinforcing bars protruding from the corner posts (the pins on the intermediate posts can be cut off). We drill holes at the ends of the beams for these pins. We cut out the ends of the beams according to the diagram shown.

We assemble the lower harness by putting the bars on the pins. Tighten the nuts and locknuts from above.

Between the vertical beams we nail or fasten with self-tapping screws horizontal jumpers from a 50x50 mm bar. We strengthen the corner posts with jibs made of 50x100 mm boards.

All that remains is to make the top trim. To do this, we use a 50 mm thick board, which we screw to the ends of the vertical beams with long wood screws.

Prices for wooden beams

wooden beams

Stage 4. Gender

Let's look at an example of arranging a leak-proof floor in a bathhouse. In order not to waste time cutting lumber, we take fastening perforated corners, self-tapping screws and assemble the floor joists. We place boards 50x100 cm between the beams of the lower frame on the edge, maintaining a distance between the logs of 40-45 cm.

Assembling the floor from the board in the “on edge” position for greater rigidity

The floor joists can be covered with OSB-3 sheets (approximately 480-550 rubles per sheet 1250x2500 mm and 9 mm thick) or use the same wooden boards from which the joists are made. A hole must be provided in the subfloor for installing a drain from a washing room or steam room.

Be sure to stretch Izospan or other vapor barrier film under the wooden subfloor.

To insulate the floor, we again attach logs on top of the subfloor, between which we lay expanded clay, sawdust or red moss, cover the entire “pie” with waterproofing film and assemble the finished floor from boards or moisture-resistant plywood (from 260 rubles for a sheet of 4 grades measuring 1525x1525 mm and 4 mm thick). The use of polystyrene foam as insulation, including packaging, is possible only in the dressing room.

Prices for Izospan

Stage 5. Roof

Before making the roof, we assemble the top floor (ceiling). We use the same fasteners and boards that were used when installing the floor joists.

It is better to make a gable roof for a frame economy bath. It will make the bathhouse more attractive in appearance, and the space under the roof will be easily converted into sleeping area or a warehouse for brooms. On the other hand, a lean-to structure will require less materials.

Templates for cutting rafters, racks, floor joists

Table. Types of roofs, diagrams

Roof type illustration	Advantages	Description
Flat or lean-to	Saving of materials, ease of assembly, ability to use the roof.	For baths up to 6 meters wide, it is permissible to arrange flat roofs with a slope of 10-25 degrees and sloping rafters. The ceiling is made from coniferous bars from 100x100 to 150x200 mm. Laying step from 40 cm to 1 m. On top of the beams, a continuous, gap-free sheathing from edged boards or OSB is assembled, then a sheathing for insulation is installed - expanded clay with a layer of 10 cm, mineral wool or expanded polystyrene. Several layers of roofing material or other moisture-proof material are laid on top of the insulation. The roof itself can be made from corrugated sheets, antiseptic-treated boards, etc.
Gable. Suitable for baths with an area >12 sq.m.	Possibility of using the attic for household purposes or for overnight accommodation. The roof is stable and durable	The roof angle is selected from 30 to 45 degrees depending on the type of terrain. To install such a roof, the top trim and the Mauerlat must be made of timber. Roof trusses They are isosceles triangles with a jumper between the edges (crossbar). The rafters rest on the Mauerlat and can hang a maximum of half a meter. The rafters are cut according to a template and assembled into trusses using metal fasteners and long self-tapping screws. The outer trusses on the gables are attached first, followed by the remaining rafters at intervals of up to one and a half meters. A sheathing of slats or boards is placed on top of the rafters, a vapor barrier is stretched, after which the roofing material, for example, corrugated sheets, is secured.

Video – Roof construction

Stage 6. Interior and exterior decoration

Table. Short description stages of insulation, insulation and finishing of an economy bath

Work order	Scheme	Description
		Polystyrene foam will provide the walls of the bathhouse with additional rigidity and retain heat. For installation we use polyurethane foam and PSB-S-15. We cut out pieces of foam plastic according to the distance between the frame posts, insert foam plastic between them, and foam the cracks. It is recommended to cut out the foam 0.5-1 cm larger in size than the existing openings to avoid gaps.
		We use 2x5 cm slats. We fasten them horizontally. Fixation is carried out using wood screws. We take the distance between the slats equal to the width of the insulation.
		We lay mineral wool slabs between the lathing slats. We stretch a polypropylene cord over the mats and secure it with small nails or a stapler.
		The outside of the bathhouse can be covered OSB sheets-3, which will later be plastered or painted. Finishing would also be an acceptable option. unedged board or siding.
		From the outside of the bath under the layer finishing material We attach the windproof film overlapping (you can use glassine). On the inside of the walls and ceiling we stretch foil vapor barrier with a thickness of 80 microns. We fix the overlaps of the strips with metallized tape.
Internal lining		The traditional material for interior decoration is lining. Economy option - aspen. It is better not to use pine lining in a steam room. In the dressing room, the walls can be covered with PVC panels or moisture-resistant plasterboard, and then painted.
External skin		Many interesting materials are used as external cladding, such as shingles or shingles. These are thin wooden planks that are fastened with nails to the walls, and the rows are fixed with a slight overlap (top to bottom). An environmentally friendly and economical solution.

Stage 7. Ventilation

An economy bathhouse is probably a compact room, but this does not exclude the need for ventilation.

The hole for air flow is traditionally installed near the heater, closer to the floor, and installation work ventilation valve are produced simultaneously with insulation and wall finishing. Air flow from supply ventilation duct must fall on a heating element ovens. It is especially important to arrange effective ventilation if the firebox door does not open into the dressing room, but into the steam room.

The exhaust vent should be located closer to the ceiling. The hood must be equipped with a damper. Air exhaust is organized according to ventilation pipe on the roof, the head of the pipe is covered with an insect net.

Natural ventilation can be achieved by small window, located at a height of 185 cm above floor level. Ventilation will occur when open window and room doors.

Video - Ventilation in the bathhouse

Prices for bath fans

bath fan

Stage 8. Equipping the bathhouse

Having assembled a bathhouse with your own hands, make a metal stove with a heat exchanger and an external water tank. The main thing is to lay asbestos cardboard on the floor and wall behind the stove during installation, and cover it with a steel sheet to prevent spontaneous combustion of wooden surfaces.

It is not necessary to calculate the load on the floor and rafters for a single metal stove; a floor structure made of 150x50 mm joists in increments of 45-50 cm and a 5 cm thick floorboard will perfectly withstand a heater.

Electrical wiring in the bathhouse is laid either before the finishing of the walls (hidden type) or after (external). Lamps and sockets are purchased and installed that are strictly moisture-proof, class higher than IP 54. Installation of a separate electrical panel and protection of all cables from moisture is required.

Prices for asbestos cardboard

asbestos cardboard

Other interesting projects of economy baths

A very unusual, but no less comfortable barrel sauna is a cylindrical wooden structure on two supports, internally divided into 2-3 compartments, the farthest of which is a steam room. The sauna is mobile, takes up little space, is economical and economical (very little fuel is needed to warm up a small steam room).

Turnkey barrel baths cost from 35 to 220 thousand rubles. In practice, to assemble such a bathhouse yourself, it takes half as much money and not a lot of effort and time.

Assembly and disassembly of the bathhouse is possible due to the boards used 45x90 or 50x90 mm with a tongue-and-groove connection. The length of the barrel, depending on the boards used, is 2.5-5 meters. The structure is secured with metal hoops. Additionally, the bathhouse can be equipped with a porch, roof, and canopy.

The water in the barrel bath is drained through holes in the floor. If you plan to install such a bathhouse at your dacha, you should remove the layer of soil, fill it with crushed stone, compact it, and install the bathhouse itself on a pair of stable, massive concrete blocks. The rules for installing a stove and laying electrical wiring are standard for any type of wooden bathhouse, including economy class.

Currently, it is difficult to imagine a summer cottage without a bathhouse on it. Taking a steam bath in a warm bathhouse is a real Russian tradition, with its roots going back centuries. A bathhouse can be built not only in a country house, but also in the city: the availability of a plot is an excellent opportunity to implement this initiative. Moreover, a frame bath is a modern high-tech design that does not require large expenses.

You can build a frame bathhouse with your own hands, without the help of specialist craftsmen. This type of construction is the fastest and most affordable: a frame bathhouse requires several times less materials than structures made of timber or logs of similar dimensions.

Where to start building a frame bath?

First of all, you need to decide on the location of the bathhouse. It may be an extension to the house, or it may be separate from it. Before starting to lay the foundation for a future bathhouse, it is necessary to determine the type of soil on the site and plan the construction itself: the number of floors and rooms, dimensions, interior.

Before building a bathhouse, a plan must be drawn up, where it is necessary to take into account the specifics of the structure and estimate the volume and duration of work. The plan should indicate all elements of the ventilation system, chimney, roof features and other important aspects. You can also attach a veranda or terrace to the bathhouse.

In order for the bathhouse to be comfortable and able to accommodate several people at the same time, its dimensions must be appropriate. The most optimal option for a steam room is 240x200x220 centimeters.

At the discretion of builders or customers, the bathhouse can be equipped with a billiard room, a relaxation room or an additional steam room.

The plan for the future bathhouse should be drawn up as accurately as possible and taking into account the smallest details - this way the construction process itself will be much simpler. The bathhouse project can be ordered from specialists. They will do everything competently and clearly, which will help avoid major mistakes during construction.

Also, when planning a bathhouse, a table is drawn up to record all the materials necessary for construction, which is correlated with the plan.

Required for construction frame bath materials:

• cement for pouring the foundation;
• sand;
• beams for mounting the frame and ceiling;
• beams;
• insulation material in a roll (mineral wool, ready-made mats, polyethylene, roofing felt, glassine);
• waterproofing film for walls and ceilings;
• lining for internal wall cladding;
• roofing material for the roof.

What foundation to choose for building a frame bath?

Since the frame bath itself is very light, for its construction it will be enough strip foundation, which is poured directly under the walls along the entire perimeter of the structure. A columnar foundation is also a common option, but its installation requires stable soil, otherwise the structure may collapse.

Due to the lightness of the frame bath, the foundation for it is poured according to a fairly simplified scheme.

When the main points are determined, you can begin the construction itself.

1. Pouring the foundation.

Step one. The perimeter of the future bathhouse is determined in advance; special pegs are driven into the ground along its edges, within which it is necessary to dig a ditch 60 centimeters deep and 40 centimeters wide.

Step two. The ditch is filled with sand to one third of the depth. The sand is poured from above with water and thoroughly compacted.

Step three. After compacting the first layer, finely chopped red brick or gravel is poured over it.

Step four. A layer of broken brick or gravel is covered with a layer of sand, which should be level with the ground level.

Step five. Formwork is assembled from reinforcement. The entire structure is poured with concrete and insulated on top with a thin layer of roofing felt.

Important! Before building a frame bathhouse, at least a week should pass so that the foundation has the opportunity to properly settle.

1. Construction of walls.

Step one. Lumber prepared for a frame bath must be thoroughly dried before starting work. It is not recommended to use birch wood for construction, as it quickly rots. The best option would be linden, aspen or larch. The wood of these species is able to maintain its shape for a long time and has thermal insulation properties, which is very important for a bathhouse.

Step two. After everything construction works When completed, the inside of the board should be coated with an antiseptic solution, and the outside with furniture varnish, in two layers. This procedure must be done around the entire perimeter of the room, avoiding only the steam room and the washing compartment.

Step three. The bottom trim, made of a reliable beam with a cross-section of 10x10 centimeters, must be fixed firmly enough, after which the beams should be properly fastened at the corners with nails. It is recommended to place the racks on metal pins so that during the construction of the walls they cannot change their location and knock down the structure.

Step four. Corner posts must be embedded in concrete.

Advice: The pillars - the basis of the walls of the future bathhouse - should be placed directly under load-bearing walls, corners, stoves - that is, in those places where the load is greatest.

Step five. Along the perimeter of the walls, intermediate racks are installed, made of the same timber as the main structure.

Step six. To make the floor waterproof, it should be laid out with timber made of any wood, with a cross-section of 15x15 centimeters.

Step seven. To cover the bathhouse outside and inside, they use lining, which is affordable and easy to use. To ensure that there are no gaps between the sheets of lining located in a horizontal position, they should be overlapped. This procedure is very scrupulous in nature, but it can protect the walls from excess moisture.

1. Let's move on to building the roof.

Step one. You need to take 8 special ceiling beams rafters cut at an angle. To begin with, you should set up only the outer rafters, and only after that fix a couple more pieces in the center of the future roof. The remaining rafters are connected to the main structure, first on one side of the roof, then on the other (through the ridge).

Step two. After the rafters, vertical posts are installed, and if necessary, an exit to the attic is also made.

Step three. On the rafters located at the edges, beams are cut out, to which the front boards are nailed, after which the battens are attached on top.

1. It is necessary to insulate the walls.

The most common material for this purpose is roll insulation about 50 millimeters thick. In some cases they use mineral wool or ready-made mats. The insulation is placed between the vertical wooden stands, after which slats are nailed to them. For thermal insulation of the room, it is recommended to use polyethylene or glassine.

Advice: it is not recommended to use roofing felt for wall insulation, as under the influence high temperatures it begins to emit an unpleasant odor.

For floor insulation, it is better to choose expanded clay or other types of backfill, and for the ceiling - polystyrene foam. If the insulation is selected correctly, heat will be lost several times less. Thanks to this, the cost of heating the bath will also be reduced.

After the walls and roof are built, you can begin installing windows and doors in the openings previously left for them. Upon completion of this work, it will be possible to enter the finish line.

The final stage of construction of a frame bath

For a bathhouse to be a pleasure to use, it must not only be comfortable and well designed, but also have a beautiful interior decoration. Therefore, after completing the main work inside the bathhouse, finishing work must be carried out.

First, you should protect the walls and ceiling from the adverse effects of moisture and high temperatures. Coniferous upholstery is perfect for this purpose. Then you can proceed directly to installing the most important part of any sauna - the stove. It must be installed in accordance with all safety requirements. It is recommended to make the wall separating the steam room and the relaxation room from brick - this way it will let in less heat.

To make the walls look more attractive, it is recommended to cover them with clapboard. Linden wood is best suited for this purpose.

What are the main pros and cons of a frame bath?

1. Acceptable price. The construction of a frame bathhouse costs several times less than its analogues.
2. Ease of construction. You can build a frame bathhouse with your own hands, without the help of specialists.
3. Light weight. The frame bath box is quite light, its weight is acceptable for areas with soft soil.
4. Short construction time. Building a frame bathhouse is not only easy, but also quick: to take a steam bath in it, you don’t even have to wait until next summer.

1. Difficult to care for. Insulating materials can become unusable when exposed to moisture and high temperatures, and replacing them will be quite problematic.
2. Unsuitable for therapeutic purposes. Due to the fact that the walls of the frame bathhouse do not highlight useful substances, bath procedures in it cannot help with health problems. If there are any, it is recommended to build a different type of bathhouse.

Despite the fact that the advantages of a frame structure are much greater than the disadvantages, you should come to a decision about building a bathhouse of one type or another, focusing only on your own taste and based on your capabilities - both material and physical. The condition of the soil and the location of the future bathhouse are also important.

There is nothing complicated or impossible in the construction of a frame bathhouse. The instructions given in this article will help everyone build the bathhouse of their dreams in a short time, without spending large financial resources.

At the end of last summer, my son and I decided to do it ourselves at our dacha. We already have a permanent house there, and besides, there are no problems with electricity and water supply. The choice was made on frame construction, since it is not only economical, but can also be built in a matter of days.

Having prepared a design for a 4.5 x 4.5 m bathhouse, I began purchasing timber, boards, fasteners, power tools, metal tiles, insulation, OSB, hydro- and vapor barrier. I also ordered the delivery of fireclay and regular red bricks, and refractory clay for the stove. By the way, I designed the stove for the bath myself. An experienced stove master helped me with the laying; after all, I wanted the stove to be as efficient and safe as possible. I drew up a diagram of the stove on a checkered sheet of paper; I tried to film the construction process (including the construction of the house) in as much detail as possible so that my experience would be useful to other people.

Of course, it’s quite difficult to build a bathhouse for two people, so at some points my son and I were helped by two more brave workers.

Layout

To begin with, a project for our future bathhouse was drawn up. We thought about the location of the rest room, shower room, steam room, and the location of the stove. According to the project, the location of water supply and sewer pipes, and the location of electrical cables were calculated. We decided to build a gable roof with a window on the gable. There should be space under the roof for an attic where we will store tools or bath brooms. There will be two windows in total, not taking into account what is under the roof. One is used as a light source in the relaxation room (120 x 120 cm), the other two are for additional ventilation of the steam room (60 x 60 cm) and the washing room (90 x 60 cm). We will install a metal door for greater security of property during our absence from the dacha.

The entrance group will consist of a small wooden staircase and a gable canopy, also made of wood.

It was decided to build the foundation from asbestos-cement pipes. There are 24 posts in total, and 5 of them will hold the stove. In the future, a blind area will be laid around the foundation of the bathhouse and a storm drain will be installed, because I am not eager to go out into the damp, dirty yard after pleasant procedures.

We located the bathhouse in one of the corners of the site. Nearby there is a high fence and trees. Ideal place, in my opinion, for construction. Perhaps in the near future we will build a font or a small one on the lawn near the bathhouse

Foundation

The foundation, as I already said, under our bathhouse is columnar. First, with the help of mercenaries, we removed with shovels a layer of soil with grass growing on it. The site was leveled, after which markings began.

The first angle was marked by sticking a peg into the ground and leveling it plumb. For further marking, a square and a five-meter tape measure were useful. A cord was tied to the first peg, 450 mm was measured, the angle was checked and two more pegs were inserted, respectively indicating the second and third corners of the bathhouse. Having pulled the cord in the same way, we installed the last fourth peg.

Despite the fact that we checked the angles with a square, measuring the diagonals showed slight inaccuracies. I had to correct them by slightly moving the stakes and clearly leveling them.

The next stage of the work was marking the location of the columns, the distance between which is 112.5 cm. The location was marked by simply sticking the reinforcement rods shallowly.

There will be one in the bathhouse interior partition, connected to the corner of the furnace. Using a tape measure, my son and I measured and marked the position of one post that will hold the partition and four more posts that will later be under the stove.

After all the calculations and markings, it's time to drill holes for the foundation pillars. They will go one and a half meters underground and stick out from the ground another 30 cm. The photo shows that we removed the cords, but left the pegs. The holes were dug quite quickly - the workers drilled with a gas drill, the son helped carry the earth. By the way, the diameter of the pits was approximately 30 cm, that is, 5 cm larger than the diameter of the asbestos-cement pipes.

To ensure that the posts stood firmly, I poured a layer of gravel and sand at the bottom of the holes, and then compacted this backfill manual tamper. I made it myself by nailing a handle bar perpendicularly to a long birch log. The principle is simple - pour gravel, take a log, lower it into the hole and knock with it several times.

Sand and gravel were poured into each hole, pillars were compacted and placed, 5 pieces were placed under the stove

My son and I mixed the cement for the posts in a small electric one. They poured cement, sand, and some crushed stone, mixed it and poured in water. The columns were filled according to all the rules. First, the pipe was lowered into the hole, then the first layer of solution was poured into it. We lifted the pipe so that part of the solution flowed to the bottom of the hole, after which we lowered it, leveled it and then poured it to the top in layers of 20-30 cm. Each layer had to be compacted using the same log with a crossbar. Fortunately, the diameter of the log was smaller than the diameter of the pipes. To avoid staining the pillars, concrete was poured through a narrow chute and plastic funnel. It turned out quite neat. After pouring, we drove reinforcement bars (threaded rods) into the concrete. The upper edge was left to stick out slightly above the concrete in order to later attach the bars of the lower frame. Lastly, sand was poured into the space between the walls of the pits and the pipes. At this point, the construction work was temporarily completed.

Two days later, having had a good rest, I started working on the foundation for the furnace. I cut the chipboard sheet into 5 parts - 4 for the walls of the formwork and 1 for the bottom. I tried the largest sheet on the support posts, then went to drill holes in it for the studs, and at the same time nailed the sides with nails. I placed the resulting box with holes on the studs, prepared the nuts and washers and, leveling the sheet, slowly tightened the fasteners. The formwork was supported from below with boards.

To make the foundation under the stove stronger, I made a reinforcement frame. I found a welded mesh, cut two pieces almost to the size of the formwork and welded pieces of wire so that the frame turned out to be three-dimensional. Look at the diagram, it shows how the rods are arranged. Of course, ideally, do not use welded mesh, but tie individual reinforcement bars yourself with soft wire. Such a connection is more flexible and almost never breaks down.

In the formwork with laid reinforcement cage poured in, mixed with a portion of fine crushed stone. There’s not much to say here - they poured it in, drove out air bubbles with wire, compacted it, covered it with film and left it to harden. This process is lengthy and takes a whole month. My son and I did not wait, having decided during this time to make the frame of the bathhouse, the roof and some related work.

Before I started laying the beams, I dug sewer and water supply pipes between the pillars so that later I wouldn’t have to crawl under the joists.

Bottom trim and subfloors

The bottom frame is the first layer of beams laid on the foundation columns. I took a well-dried timber, 15 x 15 cm, and treated it with Senezh. The humidity in the bathhouse is quite high; wood without impregnation will simply begin to rot.

I connected the beams using the “claw” method. For clarity, I drew a diagram with dimensions. In the work I used a hacksaw and a grinder. First, I cut out all the ends, then laid out the beams in the clearing in front of the bathhouse and checked the correctness of the connections.

While I was doing this, my son was laying waterproofing on the foundation - he coated the tops of the pillars with bitumen mastic and glued pieces of roofing felt to it.

To lay the strapping on the foundation, we had to drill holes for the studs sticking out of the concrete. The timber was laid directly on the posts, markings were made in place, after which I drilled. Having marked the first two beams, we laid them on the supports, checked them with a square so that the angle was exactly 90 degrees, and only after that tightened the locking nuts. By the way, we didn’t drill holes for the intermediate posts; we cut down the reinforcement so it wouldn’t interfere. The timber was screwed with nuts only at the corners of the bathhouse. Two more pieces of timber were laid in the place where the interior partition would be.

Now it's time to lay the floor joists. In order not to have to worry about cutting out the bars again, I purchased plates with holes for anchors.

I took the boards with a section of 150 x 50, sawed them and fastened them to the beams using the mentioned fasteners, screws and a screwdriver.

I covered the top of the joists with OSB sheets. The result was a pretty good subfloor.

Zero is ready, subfloor - 22 mm OSB

Prices for OSB (oriented strand boards)

OSB (oriented strand board)

Assembling the frame and trusses

Wall assembly

We assembled the walls from the same boards with a cross-section of 150 x 50 mm, fastening them together using metal perforated plates (corners). In theory, the distance between the racks should be from 60 cm to one meter, and this is what we did, except that the boards were installed a little closer to each other above and below the window lintels.

The walls are assembled using corners and 45 mm iron screws

We carried out the assembly on the lawn near the bathhouse, so it was much more convenient to take measurements, cut and fix. Assembly is very simple - first, the two upper and two lower boards are fastened together, then the rectangles of the windows are assembled, after which the missing lintels and supports are added. Additionally, we strengthened the wall structure with jibs. Also, in order to strengthen the structure, we attached one more board each with self-tapping screws (we used galvanized ones, 45 mm) above the three window and one door lintels (pay attention to the photo).

The walls were installed one by one, starting with the front. It is very difficult to install the structure without distortions alone or even together, so the assembly was carried out by five people - me, my son and three assistants. The walls were fastened to each other and to the floors with stainless steel nails 100 mm long, driving them in two rows every 45-50 cm. Finally, another row of strapping boards was laid and nailed on top of the walls. This method of frame construction resembles the children's designer. We assembled and installed the walls in just three days.

Rafters

The roof of our bathhouse is gable with hanging rafters. In total we made 11 trusses. The photo shows how we lifted them onto the roof.

The trusses were made with a slope of 45 degrees and reinforced with two struts. Having made one truss and fastened the elements with perforated plates, I continued working, using the first triangle as a template for the rest. The rafters of my bathhouse roof will rest on boards top harness, attach to it with corners. Pay attention to the cuts made in those places where the rafters will come into contact with the top trim, as well as at the ends of the rafters, where I cut off a corner for a more aesthetic appearance of the overhangs.

Roof trusses

The rafter truss, which serves as a pediment, was reinforced with four vertical strips, and in the center I nailed two lintels in order to later install a ventilation window.

The two outer trusses were assembled from just two boards each. We attached these trusses last. The photo shows the bars holding them in place. Thus, we created small canopies on the back side of the bathhouse and above the facade.

Frame and almost finished roof

Prices for various types of fasteners for rafters

Rafter fasteners

Installation of metal tiles

I decided to cover the bathhouse with Finnish Pural matt metal tiles, because its matte finish is the most resistant to fading and mechanical damage.

Before installing the metal tiles, I laid a layer of waterproofing on the roof, which I secured with thin slats directly to the rafters. Next, with a small gap, I fastened the sheathing boards.

I nailed sheets of metal tiles onto the sheathing. Ordinary self-tapping screws are not suitable here, so I purchased special ones, painted to match the coating. I laid the metal tiles in one row, adhering to the following pattern:

• the sheet was lifted onto the roof with ropes;
• work started from the lower right corner. The first one was aligned with the cornice and attached with special screws, and they were not screwed in completely so that it was possible to correct the position of the sheet;
• the second sheet was laid with an overlap in one wave and again screwed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws;
• The last sheet of the row was secured when the second row was laid.

Immediately, so as not to have to return to the roof several times, I cut the lining and hemmed the cornices.

Installation of a drainage system

I installed the gutter with help. I chose metal gutters because they are the most durable, although plastic ones are cheaper. I bought gutters with a width of 100 mm and a diameter of 75 mm. The length of the eaves of my bathhouse is 5 meters each, the distance from the eaves to the blind area is 2.5 meters. Based on this data, I purchased two pipes 2.2 meters long, two outlet funnels suitable for the gutters, two drain elbows, 4 plugs for the gutters. Another 4 elbows were needed to connect the pipes to the funnels.

The pipes are attached to the wall with clamps every 30 cm, so I took 14 clamps, and 10 brackets, I will mount them on the cornice every meter. Four locks were also needed to secure the three-meter gutters.

I started work with markings. I took a stepladder, a tape measure, a marker, and thread and crawled under the roof. I needed to stretch the thread enough to attach the gutter with a slope of 5mm per 1m, so a total slope of 25mm.

I attached the two outermost adjustable brackets to the sheathing (15 cm from the edge) and pulled the thread. I checked the slope with a tape measure. The remaining brackets were secured so that they touched the thread. Next, I nailed the cornice strip to the sheathing.

By the way, I did all this work before installing the metal tiles, and laid the gutters directly when the entire covering was installed. I connected the pipes when the outer cladding of the walls of the house was done.

The gutters were connected with locks. I applied sealant to the rubber gasket and connected the pipes, leaving a gap of approximately 3 mm between the ends of the joined elements. This gap is needed to compensate for thermal expansion.

I used a hacksaw to cut out V-shaped holes in the gutters, took the funnels and connected each one by simply sliding the edges under the outer bend of the gutter and then bending the flange over the front edge of the gutter. I installed the funnel at a distance of 15 cm from the end of the gutter.

I installed plugs at the ends of the gutters. The drain elbow was secured to the pipe with rivets. I didn’t buy the spider that is inserted into the funnel; I bent the wire myself so that it would trap debris.

I fixed the pipe holders with dowels. The pipes are assembled very simply - they are inserted into each other and fastened with clamps, which are pre-nailed with dowels to the wall.

Bathroom wall cladding

For external cladding For the walls of the bathhouse, I chose Izoplaat slabs. They have good vapor permeability, and the material is natural. Plus, these slabs strengthen the rigidity of bathhouse walls. I took “Izoplaat” 25 mm thick, cut it with a jigsaw and fastened it to the frame with nails.

Green slabs - Isoplaate, vapor permeable. Roof - Pural Matt metal tiles

I stretched the Izospan film over the Izoplaat slabs. This material is also waterproof and windproof, but still allows steam to pass through. I secured the material with a stapler, making horizontal and vertical overlaps of approximately 10 cm.

I insulated the inside of the bathhouse with basalt wool. The slabs had to be cut in places because they did not fit into the space between the posts. Additionally, I didn’t secure the cotton wool with anything; it lay down quite tightly.

Already at this stage, my assistants began to make plumbing from polypropylene. This is clearly visible in the photo. I chose this hidden type of pipe installation for aesthetic reasons. In the future, all of them will be hidden under the finishing cladding.

The outer decorative lining of the bathhouse was made of clapboard. This material was not chosen by chance. Firstly, a bathhouse lined with wood has a presentable appearance, and secondly, wooden lining allows the walls to “breathe” and condensation does not accumulate either in the insulation or in the frame itself.

To provide the necessary air layer, I stuffed thin wooden slats 3 cm wide and only half a centimeter thick directly onto the vapor barrier.

Prices for thermal insulation materials

Thermal insulation materials

Ebb tides for the base

By the way, it was after I filled the slats and before the installation of the lining began that I began installing the ebb for the base. I took green metal strips. The width I chose was only 50 mm - this is quite enough for a bathhouse. To secure the ebb tides evenly, I first pulled the thread, checked the line with a level, and then proceeded with installation from the far corner of the bathhouse.

I took the first plank and marked a line across the profile with a pencil in the center. I stepped back 5 cm from this line to the right and left, put points and connected them so that a triangle was formed. This triangle was cut out with metal scissors, after which I bent the strip, attached it to the wall of the house and tightened special self-tapping screws with washers. To make it clearer, I am attaching a diagram that I found on the Internet.

The rest of the profiles around the perimeter were attached in the same way - simply screwing in the screws and checking the horizontalness at the same time. All joints were coated with frost-resistant sealant. When I installed all the planks, I additionally strengthened the base ebbs with polyurethane foam - I applied it in a small amount under the planks.

Installation of lining

I decided to install the lining using clamps. Of course, you can simply nail the boards, but this is quite ugly.

My son and I simply pressed the first board against the wall, leveled it and secured it with self-tapping screws, screwing them along the edges of the plank. Then, clamps were inserted into the grooves of the first board of the lining on top (they were inserted next to the battens of the sheathing, stuffed on top of the vapor barrier) and nails were driven into the existing holes. The second board was inserted into the groove of the previous one. Both boards were tapped with a hammer through the intermediate block so that they were tightly connected. Next, we inserted the clamps again and secured them with nails. The remaining boards were fastened in the same way, sawing off the excess in the window and door openings.

I simply nailed the last triangle under the roof itself.

When I finished with the walls, I built a small one above front door. Later, I brought it to mind, turning it into a gable, covering it with metal tiles and installing a street lamp under the canopy.

Window

Windows are a different story. They must be installed following technology and avoiding distortions. In a bathhouse, windows should not only be a source of light and provide ventilation, but also retain heat well.

I ordered the windows themselves in advance from one company, but I installed everything. To begin with, I took vapor barrier and waterproofing tape. The first one was secured around the perimeter window frame from the inside, the second - from the outside, that is, from the street. Later I will glue the edges of these tapes to Izospan.

I installed the frame and tapped plastic spacer wedges to create a two-centimeter gap for the foam. Included with the windows were mounting anchor plates with holes into which I screwed long screws. Afterwards I foamed the gaps and checked everything with a level again.

By the way, when installing the sash, I only filmed from one window – the largest. I installed small windows without removing the frames.

Door

I ordered a metal door so that ill-wishers would not get into my bathhouse in winter.

First, I took the door off its hinges to try the frame in the opening. All measurements were accurate and the box fit perfectly. I secured the box with self-tapping screws through the eyes, having previously placed wedges under it for leveling. I filled the gaps between the frame of the house and the door frame with mounting foam, when it dried, I hung the door leaf.

Bath ceiling

To arrange the ceiling, I took an ordinary edged larch board and carefully nailed it to the floor beams. In the place where there will be a hatch for access to the attic, I cut out a rectangular hole.

Further work continued in the attic and after the sauna stove was built. I laid a foil vapor barrier on the rough ceiling, and slabs on top of it basalt wool, inserting them tightly between the floor beams. I stretched plastic film over the cotton wool and secured it with tape. To finish, I simply nailed another layer of edged boards. All that remains is to make the hatch cover and secure the ladder. The fasteners were included, but I simply screwed all the parts to the floor beams.

I purchased a good quality ladder, retractable, equipped with a ready-made hatch cover. However, so that this cover would not stand out on the ceiling, I carefully covered it with slats. It turned out well, the hatch became almost invisible when closed.

Wiring

I dealt thoroughly with the issue of electricity, trying to do everything carefully and according to the rules. The photo shows that I made the wiring, as well as the water supply pipes, hidden, laying the wires at the stage of internal insulation of the walls of the bathhouse and before finishing.

All wiring is in metal hoses, connections are in boxes on terminals. In the panel there is a general RCD for 30 mA, then 3 circuits

Electricity was pulled from the house through the air, fortunately the distance was short. He screwed a hook into one of the walls of the bathhouse, and screwed the same one into the wall of the house (the distance from the hooks to the ground is about three meters). He pulled a strong cable between them, around which a conductive cable was wrapped.

The photo shows the clamps that are attached to the hooks. It is mounted like this:

• the SIP wire is moved apart, a place for the clamp is prepared;
• the SIP wire is inserted into the grooves of the anchor clamp;
• the wires “wedge”;
• The anchor clamp is attached to the hook - support.

I installed sockets, switches (class IP-44) and a panel in the dressing room. The distance from the floor to the sockets was 90 cm. In the steam room and washing room I ran wires only for the lamps (I tried to do everything away from the stove), because in these rooms it is too humid and sockets simply cannot be installed.

He took copper cables and pulled them through a non-flammable metal corrugation, which he secured with clamps. In some places we had to drill holes in the support beams to install the corrugation. I installed the socket boxes when I covered the walls with clapboard. And the sockets, switches and beautiful lamps(for the steam room I took it with a heat-resistant lamp, class IP-54) I installed it last.

I'm doing grounding. The grounding was done as expected - a triangle, the vertical corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. The RCD is triggered “at once”

The grounding was done as it should be - a triangle, the vertical half-meter corners were welded with a 40 mm strip. To do this, I had to enlist the help of an electrician friend who had a welding machine. A triangle trench was dug near the bathhouse. They drove the triangle welded from the corners into the ground. Then they welded another section of steel strip, which was brought above the ground near the wall of the bathhouse. An M10 bolt was welded to the end of the strip. Next, it was necessary to drill a hole in the wall of the bathhouse in order to lay a copper grounding conductor (mine was 8 mm in diameter) from the grounding to the distribution panel. We wound the conductor around the bolt, closed the whole thing with a terminal box, and a qualified electrician and part-time friend of mine worked on the panel.

Everything took about two hours. I treated the metal strip with bitumen to prevent it from rusting. I dug the ditches, compacted them, and next summer I will sow a lawn there.

Sewerage

There will be a shower in the bathhouse, and water treatments are planned in the steam room, so installing a sewer system is a necessity. I provided a drainage well as the final collection point for wastewater. I dug a one and a half meter hole with a diameter of about 1.2 meters, compacted the bottom, covered it with sand and small gravel. Then we installed two meter-long reinforced concrete rings into the pit. The joint of the rings was coated with cement mixed with liquid glass.

Trench for water supply. Depth - per bayonet

Pipes led from the washing room and steam room. I ran another pipe from the location of the urinal. Three holes were made in the floor and pipes were inserted into them. The three pipes were connected to each other with a suitable fitting. A common pipe was laid at a slight slope along a dug trench to the well. One pipe was not long enough, so I had to connect two straight sections with a coupling. All joints are silicone. I first added sand to the bottom of the trench, and used it to fill the pipe after installation.

The well was covered with a round reinforced concrete slab with a hole. I built the neck out of brick, and instead of the lid, I installed a metal hatch for the gas tap. It is small in diameter, but sufficient for inspecting the drainage level in the well and pumping out wastewater with a sewer truck. But there’s no need to go all the way inside, I think so.

Inspection hatch. Instead of a hatch, a hatch for the gas tap was installed. You can check the level and pump it out. There's no need to climb inside

The premises were installed drains with siphons and filters. A compact part that is inserted directly into the sewer pipe. When choosing, I preferred a product with a metal grille, guided by considerations of reliability and durability. The grill itself is square with round hole in the center, when laying the tiles I didn’t have to spend a lot of time fiddling around with cutting. I installed the drain in parallel with pouring the floor screed and laying the tiles, which I will discuss later.

Brick cutting machine - grinder on a Chinese bed

I developed and designed it myself. The laying was carried out by the stove maker, based on my sketches. The work began before the finishing floors were installed, the reasons, I think, are clear.

Roofing felt was laid on the previously poured foundation and the first row of bricks was laid. To prevent distortions, each row of bricks was first laid out without clay mortar. A level was used to check horizontality. Plumb lines were also pulled to control the verticality of the masonry.

The photo shows the second and third row of bricks that form the ash chamber and the “appendix” necessary to warm the bottom of the furnace. This design significantly exceeds the efficiency classic stoves with an ash chamber equal in area to the firebox.

Before installation, I wrapped the doors with asbestos cord and sealed them with masking tape. I inserted a binding wire into the existing holes and twisted it. During the process of laying bricks, the stove maker placed the long ends of twisted wire between the rows, which ensured that the doors were securely installed.

In the fourth row, the ash pan was covered, the doors were finally secured and part of the “appendix” was blocked. The grate was also laid here cast iron grate, cutting rectangular cuts in the bricks under it. The grid (size 20 x 30 cm) lay down freely, with a gap of about 2 cm necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the metal.

To make the ceiling strong enough, the bricks were hewn down into a wedge. Metal corners were not used when arranging the ceiling.

Between the fourth and fifth rows, and then every two rows, the stove maker advised laying a reinforcing steel mesh.

Next, the master laid out the firebox, using yellow fireclay bricks for its walls. The ceilings and firebox door were arranged according to the principle described above. The detailed masonry process is visible in the photo. Fireclay bricks with triangular cuts were also installed in the firebox. These holes are necessary for supplying secondary air, without which the afterburning of wood gases is impossible.

When laying gas (smoke) channels, asbestos cardboard was laid between the fireclay core and the outer walls of the furnace. Note the overlap of the fireclay core. The bricks are hewn and installed on edge.

Also visible in the photo are red brick ledges on which cast iron bricks will be laid. And on top there will be stove stones. To make it clearer, I drew a diagram of the fireclay core indicating the position of the cast iron bricks and some other elements of the furnace. WITH right side The stove will have a fireplace portal facing the steam room. And the cleaning and fuel loading doors open into the dressing room. This way, smoke and carbon monoxide will never penetrate into the steam room, and you can splash some water on the hot stones - “steam.”

Bath stove. Adapter frame

Bath stove. Fireplace portal

After covering the fireclay core and installing the fireplace portal (see photo), the masonry continued without changes. Inside, straight vertical smoke channels were still formed, which were combined into one on rows 20-21. A ceiling was formed above the far smoke channel, a valve frame (bypass view) was installed between the channels, the hole in which ensured the free movement of gases, and above the near smoke channel, instead of a ceiling, the stove maker installed a chimney valve. The part was placed in pre-prepared cuts in the bricks and secured with fireclay clay and two dowels (the holes in the bricks were drilled with a Pobedit drill).

Two rows later, another pipe valve was installed. There are three valves in total - two of them for the chimney and one bypass installed between the smoke channels (direct stroke).

Three valves - two per pipe and one bypass (direct stroke)

The photo shows a transition to a ceramic pipe, made in the form of four rows of bricks, each row partially overhanging the one below. Above the fourth overhanging row of bricks, three more rows are laid - the transition to the chimney. In the last row of this transition you can see a round cut into which the ceramic will be installed chimney, or rather an element for collecting condensate.

There are also brick protrusions on the side panels of the stove, which are necessary for further arrangement of interior partitions.

The furnace was covered right up to the ceiling. Metal corners were used on which the final row of bricks was laid. Asbestos sheets were laid between the ceiling and the bricks.

Installation of the chimney itself (I took a ceramic Italian one, Effie Domus for the bathhouse) took very little time. The blocks were simply installed on top of each other, fixed with sealant and building clay mortar. A deflector was installed on top of the chimney to protect against precipitation.

A few days later they tested the sauna stove - they burned several newspapers. The traction is just great.

Later, when I was making the finishing floor, I laid a steel sheet with an ash receptacle in front of the firebox. It’s easier to sweep this way, and the floor won’t catch fire if a coal accidentally falls out.

All the bricks that are left :)

Prices for refractory bricks

Fire brick

Video - Installation of a ceramic chimney

Floor

We insulated it. The steam room and shower have tiled flooring, and the dressing room has laminate flooring. First, I’ll tell you about the steam room and shower; there are many more important nuances there.

Laying tiles

The tiles were purchased with a matte finish and rough so that they would not slip. We decided that tiles are much better than wooden floors - they don’t rot and are easy to clean. The glue was purchased with the best moisture resistance characteristics.

Waterproofing was laid on the subfloor, overlapping the walls. On top of the waterproofing, insulation was laid - EPPS (thickness 30 mm). For better adhesion of EPS to the waterproofing, assembly adhesive was used.

A screed was poured over the insulation along the beacons with a slope towards the drain funnel. Before pouring the solution, a reinforcing mesh and a set of beacons were laid. The photo shows that we attached the beacons not to the floor, but to an asbestos solution - we laid out piles and pressed profiles into them. The solution (cement with sand) was mixed in a rented concrete mixer, because... It was important to fill the entire floor in one day. The solution was spread from the bucket with a trowel onto the grid between the beacons and leveled with a wooden plank - the rule. The floor was finally leveled with a wide trowel and grout.

The tiles were laid away from the drain gutter to make it easier to maintain the slope. Each one was pre-soaked in water. The glue was applied with a notched trowel onto the dried and primed screed. In this case, glue was not applied to the entire surface of the floor at once, but only to the space for laying 1-2 tiles. The glue hardens quickly and should not be used to cover a large area of ​​the floor at once. The thickness of the adhesive layer was kept approximately equal to the thickness of the tile. I collected the excess glue around the laid elements with a simple narrow spatula.

First, all rows of whole tiles were laid out, then parts along the walls. We cut the tiles with a manual tile cutter. By the way, for precision masonry we pulled the fishing line and used crosses for the seams. And for better contact of the tile surface with the binder, immediately after laying, I lightly tapped each square of tile with a rubber mallet.

Laminate

They installed it very quickly. We covered the floor with film over the insulation, nailed down moisture-resistant plywood, and rolled out the backing.

I unpacked the package with a knife. He took out the first panel and laid it down, turning it with a small protrusion towards the wall. I inserted 2 plastic wedges between the wall and the board. I took the second strip and snapped it into the end groove of the first. I leveled it and placed the wedges again. When I reached the opposite wall, circular saw I cut off an extra piece of laminate panel. The next row began from the segment. The second row was assembled in the same way as the first, after which I lifted the entire floorboard at an angle of 45 degrees and carefully connected it to the latch of the first row, and then hammered it through the block with a mallet. The last row had to be sawed lengthwise, precisely measuring the cutting line.

Walls

The walls, as can be seen in the photo report, are covered with clapboard or tiled. First things first.

Laying tiles

We sheathed the walls on top of the insulation with moisture-resistant gypsum fiber board. Self-tapping screws were used for fastening. They were screwed in in increments of 25 cm and retreating slightly from the edge. The sheets were cut so that the joints fell on the frame beams.

In the steam room, it was decided to make a plinth from tiles, so I had to purchase two sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard, cut them carefully into strips and screw them around the perimeter of the walls. By the way, the drywall was already attached to the fixed foil (vapor barrier).

In the shower the first row was laid out of floor tiles. I had to cut it a little so that the top row of tiles on the wall consisted of whole tiles.

I applied glue to the wall with a spatula, applied it and tapped the tiles with a mallet. I inserted crosses between adjacent tiles so that the seams were the same. I checked the flatness and horizontality with a long water level. The second and subsequent rows were laid with tiles of a different color.

Some tiles were used for further installation of pipes and electrical appliances. I made markings with a pencil, checked the accuracy of the position of the hole with a ruler and square, after which the drill went into action. First I drilled the hole with a spear drill. To prevent the tile from splitting, a piece of masking tape was glued on top. After the central hole was ready, I changed the nozzle to a circular one. I immediately purchased a crown with tungsten carbide coating for these purposes. Quite expensive, but it was enough for the entire finishing process.

Immediately during the laying process, excess glue was removed with a rag until the composition dried. The grout seams turned out smooth and neat.

A day after finishing the walls with tiles, I started working on the seams. To begin with, I pulled out all the crosses. I used two colors of grout – white and dark brown. For the bath I selected a two-component epoxy composition. It's not the cheapest, but it's ideal for wet areas. I mixed the grout components in one bucket and did not add water.

Before applying the epoxy grout, I lightly wet the wall with a spray bottle. I collected the mass onto a spatula and then spread it over the seams, making movements from left to right perpendicular to the seam. The spatula was held at an angle of approximately 30 degrees. I leveled the grout 30 minutes after its application using a rubber spatula. Well, finally, when the seams were dry, I washed the walls with soap and water.

Lining - installation

The walls in the steam room were not sheathed with GVL. We stretched the foil vapor barrier and secured it with a stapler and tape. By the way, I also taped well the joint between the ventilation air duct and the foil. On top of the foil I carefully stuffed slats - lathing.

I would like to draw the readers' attention to the horizontal position of the wooden planks. I specially positioned them so as to avoid capillary rise of moisture along the wooden wall and to achieve good air circulation necessary for drying the material after bath procedures. It would be very unpleasant if the constant dampness caused the lining to wilt or if it rotted after a couple of years. After all, we build a bathhouse from the heart and for a long time. I also want to say that horizontal fastening allows you to repair or change individual planks, and if the lining is located vertically on the walls, you will have to dismantle half the wall.

At first I wanted to just nail the boards, but then the choice again fell on clamps. They are not visible under the lining, and the nails can rust from high humidity, there will be black smudges on the walls.

I treated all the planks with Neomid impregnation to prevent the wood from rotting. And to attach the first and last strips, I purchased copper-plated finishing nails.

Installation started from the ceiling. I stepped back 3 cm, applied the bar, and nailed the nail into the center. I drove another nail on both sides of the board, and then checked the level with a level. I assembled the lining so that the tenon was on top and the groove was on the bottom. This is important, because if you sheathe the wall differently, moisture will accumulate in the grooves, the wood will swell and move.

From below, I inserted clamps into the groove of the first board, each of them was nailed to the sheathing with three nails. I inserted the second forcing panel with a tenon into the groove. I lightly tapped it with a hammer from bottom to top so that there were no gaps left, after which I inserted the clamps and nailed them. So I collected it all the way to the floor. I cut the last bottom plank lengthwise so that there was a gap of 2 cm between the floor and the wood. I inserted the board into the tenon of the penultimate board and nailed it down. Along the way, I drilled holes for the wiring and often checked the horizontal position. I covered all the nails of the first and last panels with a wooden plinth, and installed vertical strips in the corners for beauty.

Shelves in the steam room

I told you how to make the ceiling, floor and walls, the stove is ready, all that remains is to make the shelves in the bathhouse. For work, I took linden boards and pine bars. I drew a diagram, prepared a screwdriver, long screws, metal mounting angles, a hammer and nails.

First, I marked the bars and cut them with a grinder. I cut the ends of the horizontal bars that will connect to the front vertical posts using the “tenon and groove” principle. That is, I made a “tenon” on the horizontal bars, and a “groove” on the vertical posts.

The first thing I screwed to the wall was the support posts. I would like to note that these supports should not be in contact with the floor; a gap of up to two centimeters should be left. I attached cross members to the support posts. I simply took the mounting angle and nailed it under the horizontal bars at the point where they connected to the support posts. Thus, I nailed the bars on which the boards and bars will lie for stability.

Similarly, I assembled a frame for the lower bench and a small table for brooms, after which I laid boards on the frame and secured them with self-tapping screws. For convenience, I cut off the protruding sharp edges and thoroughly sanded the boards and frame so as not to plant a splinter.

Interior doors

Its principle is similar to the installation of an entrance door. The door in the steam room is glass, the door in the dressing room is wooden. The box in both cases is made of wood, ordered based on the size of the opening.

The box consists of several elements. The connections are sawed at an angle of 90 degrees. First, I secured the side strips and the top using nails. Then I inserted plastic wedges and several spacers between the elements of the box and blew out the mounting foam. When it had dried a little, I carefully nailed the side strips of the door frame, which covered the gap and a layer of foam.

I didn’t take pictures of the process itself, so I’m attaching a picture diagram for clarity.

The hinges were included; I attached them to the box and canvas with self-tapping screws. At this stage of the work, it is important to check all distances with a tape measure so that the door hangs evenly. Next, all that remains is to hang the door on its hinges and install the door handle.

Plumbing

The photo shows that we have a douche bucket hanging on the wall, a urinal, a shower and a faucet with spout. The sewerage and hot/cold water pipes were installed at the stage of laying the foundation and building the walls. Now we will talk directly about the installation of plumbing.

Shower room, urinal

Let's start with the urinal. My son and I chose a wall-mounted compact model with a faucet instead cistern, they brought it, unpacked it, and put it against the wall to make markings. The urinal has mounting holes; we marked their location, as well as the outline, on the wall with a marker after we checked whether the product was evenly attached to the wall.

Holes for dowels were drilled according to the markings.

The siphon in the urinal is solid, we tried it on the outlet of the sewer pipe, after which we connected the pipe and siphon with a special pipe. The end of the pipe, which was inserted into the sewer pipe, was wrapped with linen thread and coated with red lead.

The urinal tap is very easy to install. The part is connected to the urinal through a rubber gasket. The height of the crane is adjusted by rotating the parts. The connection to the water supply pipe is made with a nut. After connecting the urinal to the water supply and sewerage, I coated the joint between the earthenware and the wall with plumbing sealant and checked the functionality of the entire system.

A little about the dousing bucket. It's a wonderful device that spins when you pull the chain, and the float mechanism inside the bucket keeps it from overflowing. The bucket frame is secured with dowels, and water is supplied through a flexible hose.

Installed according to the same principle. The package already contains everything you need, you only need an adjustable wrench and Unipack or Moment plumbing tape. I took the eccentrics out of the box, screwed them into the hot/cold water pipes, then took a level and adjusted them horizontally, while simultaneously bringing the distance between them to 150 mm (slightly turning each eccentric in turn).

The next stage was the installation of the product itself. A thread was screwed onto the eccentrics, rubber gaskets were put on, then I placed the mixer and screwed the union nuts onto the eccentrics.

I am sharing another video that I watched before installing the faucets.

Basement siding

To make the bathhouse look more pleasant and interesting, I decided to cover the foundation columns with basement siding panels. To secure it, metal strips are required to create the sheathing. Even a plasterboard profile will do. I would like to note that first I poured the blind area and made a boardwalk on the side of the facade, and only then attached the sheathing and panels. Otherwise it would be difficult to calculate the height of the panels.

To attach the sheathing (the lower starting profile at a distance of 5 cm from the blind area and flooring), I used self-tapping screws and corners (I simply cut off pieces of the plasterboard profile to make corners). With a screwdriver, the entire structure is assembled in a matter of hours; the main thing is to accurately measure the length of the vertical stiffeners and secure the horizontal profiles using a level (for convenience, I used a level and pulled a guide cord).

I fastened the panels with self-tapping screws, screwing them in approximately every half meter. Masking elements are secured in the corners in the same way. I immediately made square slots in the panels and installed ventilation grilles (fastened with self-tapping screws in the corners) - 2 grilles on each side of the bathhouse.

Blind area

I poured between the foundation of the bathhouse and the fence. Immediately laid a drainage gutter with a grate. The order is as follows:

We have plank flooring in front of the front door. They just laid boards on three parallel bars, trimmed the edges with a hacksaw and laid them at the front door.

Larch flooring. Base - plastic panels “stone-like”.

Finishing touches

To give the bathhouse a finished look, we equipped the porch with a canopy and homemade ladder. The height of the steps on the stairs is 18 cm, the parts were assembled using mounting angles and self-tapping screws.

From the gate to the entrance I made it, near the bathhouse I managed to collect a compost box and a decent firewood bin. We brought furniture inside the bathhouse, hung shelves, curtains, and hung brooms. In the future, I plan to arrange a front garden near the bathhouse and build an outdoor barbecue.

Building a frame bathhouse with your own hands is quite simple. If it is also properly insulated and protected from moisture, it will be possible to get a steam room that will be practically in no way inferior to structures made of stones or rounded logs.

Advantages and disadvantages of a frame bath

Each building material has its own advantages and disadvantages that must be taken into account. Recently, frame baths have begun to become popular, so it makes sense to find out what they are better designs from other materials.

The advantages of such a bath:

However, it is important to know that a frame bath has significant disadvantages:

1. Costs for insulation and finishing materials. The frame building itself is cheaper than a stone or timber steam room, but the cost increases several times during finishing and insulation work. Panels for decoration and plastering are required.
2. Shrinkage. The process takes at least 2 years, and the building may sag by 10 cm. This may lead to deformation of the finishing layer. To reduce the effects of shrinkage, it is recommended to use chamber-drying materials during the construction process.
3. Difficulty of choice quality material for insulation. If you use budget mineral wool, the bathhouse will not be able to fully cope with its functions. The use of budget polystyrene foam is also not allowed, since the material is easily flammable.

Preparation for construction: project drawings

Creating a drawing requires certain skills. If they are not there, then it is better to entrust this work to a specialist or use a ready-made drawing.

Before drawing up a diagram, it is important to decide on the following points:

You need to include all the information received in the drawing, as well as supplement the project with the necessary details. The more detailed the diagram, the easier it is to build a bathhouse.

The more detailed the project, the easier it is to make a frame bathhouse yourself

A standard bath includes a corridor, a dressing room, a washing room and a steam room.

A standard frame bath consists of a dressing room, steam room, shower and rest room

Quite often a separate room for recreation is provided. It is recommended to mark the installation location of the stove on the diagram. If this is a steam room, then it is best to place the stove in the corner closest to the door. The stove can be stone or brick.

It is recommended to determine in advance the dimensions of each room and indicate them in the drawing. Standard sizes steam rooms - 200x240 cm. Optimal height the ceiling is 220 cm. This design can accommodate 2-3 people at the same time.

In the drawing you can see a bathhouse for a suburban area with a balcony measuring 1.5x4 m. The overall dimensions of the building are 4x6 m. The project is suitable for organizing gatherings in an open area in the summer.

Frame bath can be equipped with a terrace for gatherings in the warm season

This bathhouse consists of 3 rooms:

• steam room;
• washing and shower;
• rest room.

The corridor is shown separately in the diagram. There is no room for a locker room. There is a small changing area in the washing room. The terrace connects to the living room.

The optimal wall thickness of a frame structure is 100 mm or more. The wood that is used in the process of making a bath must be treated with an antiseptic. It is recommended to use dried, calibrated lumber.

It is mandatory to perform a vapor barrier of the insulating material on the internal base. In the steam room you need to use foil vapor barrier. The reflective layer can increase the temperature inside the steam room.

Walls and ceilings in the stove area should be made using non-flammable materials. For example, the frame is made of a rack-mount metal profile, which is coated with zinc. Cuttings can be made from asbestos cord. In these places, a basalt slab can be used as an insulation material.

Supply and exhaust ventilation is required in all rooms. Floors in the sink should be made with a slight slope or along a screed. The top and bottom floors need to be insulated in the same way as the walls.

The minimum size of a frame bath is 3x4 m.

The minimum size of a bathhouse for a comfortable stay of several people is 3x4 m

The budget version of the frame is made in this way: the racks are sheathed on the inside and outside with boards up to 25 mm, basalt insulation or ecowool.

If you plan to use ecowool inside the walls, it should be carefully compacted and horizontal platforms for unloading should be installed. The frame must be sheathed inside and outside. To do this you will need to make a sheathing. On the outside, the insulation material is covered with a membrane to protect it from the wind. In the horizontal plane, the use of ecowool is a more economical option compared to basalt insulation.

The outside of the frame structure can be covered with any facing material. The inside of the building is lined with clapboards, plasterboard sheets with tiles or imitation timber.

The frame should be assembled from the following parts:

• bars;
• slats for creating sheathing;
• boards for the floor base.

Instead of plank flooring, the floor base can be covered with tiles. You need to choose based on personal preferences, however, in the case of a steam room, it is recommended to give preference to wood. There will also be materials for protection. Quite often, lining is used for wall cladding.

To cover the structure from the outside, you can use larch lining. The inside of the building is clad with clapboard made of coniferous trees. Sheathing boards must be mounted vertically.

Excess moisture and elevated temperatures will negatively affect structural elements, so it will not be possible to do without the use of special protective materials. You can use glassine, polyethylene or roofing felt. A vapor barrier should be placed between the insulation and the sheathing. The disadvantage of roofing felt is that during the heating process it will emit an unpleasant odor. Therefore, it is not recommended to use it.

You need to pay attention to the selection of material for thermal insulation. If you choose wisely and install the insulation correctly, it will be possible to significantly reduce heat losses, as well as the cost of heating the bathhouse building.

Mineral wool is used as insulation in most cases.

Not bad insulation material for a frame bath is mineral wool

A good option is to use fiberglass. In some cases, the ceiling is insulated with expanded polystyrene, and the floor base with expanded clay.

Calculation of materials and list of tools

As an example, we will consider the calculation for a frame bath of the most common sizes. The frame is made of timber, the size of the structure is 5x4 m. The base will be reinforced columnar.

For the frame structure, you can use a lightweight foundation made of asbestos-cement pipes

Coniferous wood lining is used to decorate the walls inside and outside. The roof will be gable, the covering will be metal tiles.

A pressing issue is the choice of wood. The material must be dried. Linden, larch or aspen are most suitable. These rocks have low thermal conductivity; they are capable of maintaining their original structure for a long period of time. The walls are erected from boards 2-3 cm thick. Larch or pine slats are suitable for external cladding.

In terms of cost and reliability, a columnar reinforced base is the best option for frame construction.

Columnar reinforced foundation is suitable for the construction of frame baths in most regions

It can be used in most regions. You will need to prepare materials in the following quantities:

• concrete - 2 m 3;
• edged boards for the frame - 0.3 m 3;
• reinforcing bars - 80 linear meters

The frame can be made from boards, pieces of plywood sheets or OSB. If the soil on the construction site is clayey, then formwork is not necessary.

The most complex and financially expensive part of the bathhouse is the frame. The purchase of materials at this stage must be approached carefully. List of required materials:

• beam 120x120 mm - 5.3 m 3;
• mineral wool 10 cm thick - 36 m2;
• material for vapor barrier - 40 m2;
• wooden lining - 70 m2;
• material for waterproofing - 40 m2.

To save money, instead of bars you can purchase 50x100 mm boards.

To save money, you can use 50x100 mm edged boards during the frame manufacturing process

The timber must be of the second grade and lower, the board can only be of the first grade. The cladding of the walls on the outside can be done not with wooden lining, but with plastic sheets or corrugated sheets.

The floor is made of edged veneer boards. The ceiling should be covered with clapboard. If you want to save money, you can use mineral wool for thermal insulation. List of materials:

• edged boards - 1.8 m 3;
• boards 150x50 mm - 0.2 m 3;
• plinth - 20 linear meters;
• mineral wool - 20 m2;
• wooden lining - 20 m2.

You can save money on attic flooring. If you do not plan to use it, then the mineral wool can be covered with unedged boards or pieces of slabs.

The roof is gable, the attic can be used to store tools.

The best option for a frame structure is a gable roof.

There is no need to insulate the roof. The rafters will be hanging. You will need the following materials:

• drainage system - 1 set;
• slats for rafters - 0.2 m 3;
• lathing strips - 0.1 m 3;
• cornice slats - 0.1 m 3;
• metal tiles - 20 m2.

In a bathhouse, quite often, instead of a drain, a blind area around the perimeter is installed using a cement-sand mortar.

List of materials that will also be needed:

• asbestos pipes;
• self-tapping screws;
• nails;
• staples;
• cement;
• gravel or sand.

You will need the following tools:

• square;
• building level;
• roulette;
• electric drill;
• Screwdriver Set;
• hammer;
• pliers.

It is important to think through all architectural and construction tasks, which include:

• internal lining of the bathhouse building;
• choice optimal materials for construction work;
• actions that are required to ensure the safe use of the structure.

After preparing the tools and materials, you can proceed to construction work.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions with photos

A building of this type is lightweight, so the base can be lightweight. The easiest way is to make a columnar foundation on asbestos cement pipes, which will later be filled with concrete mortar. Sequencing:

Next, the structure is tied. To do this, you need to prepare slats with a cross section of 100x50 mm. The materials will need to be pre-treated with an antiseptic mixture to protect them from rotting. The walls are marked, after which the slats are placed along the outer line.

Before tying the boards, you need to treat them with an antiseptic.

The boards must be placed on the outer edge and nails must be driven in for fixation. The base trim can be connected using supports.

The upper and lower trims should be made of boards, while the bottom one should be cut off from the base to make it possible to lay roofing material. The horizontal position should be checked with a level. If deviations are found, it will be necessary to lay only several layers.

Intermediate racks are mounted taking into account that it is possible to install thermal insulation and cladding materials in the future. To increase the strength of the structure, the harness and joists should be secured using pre-fixed iron plates.

The binding must be treated with a mixture that prevents rotting.

How to make walls

In the process of building walls, the interaxial distance is essential. The indicator will be equal to 0.6 m, provided that preparation of the opening and joining with the remaining walls is not planned. Otherwise, the gap must be reduced to 0.4 m. The distance between the racks will depend on the dimensions of the doors and windows. For the frame you need to use 50x100 mm boards. Sequence of actions for constructing walls:

1. The first step is to mark the places where the racks will be located.
2. Installation in progress corner posts. Using a level, you need to install the parts in the four corners of the bath, check the placement and temporarily fix them with slats in a vertical position.

   Temporary jibs hold corner posts upright

3. Vertical racks are mounted in the side parts. According to the project, the height of the structure is 2 m, so the planks must be the same length. At the bottom, iron corners and self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

   The parts are fixed using self-tapping screws in a vertical position

4. It will be necessary to make an additional rack at the point where the frame is fastened to the walls or lintel.
5. Intermediate elements are being installed. The recommended spacing between the load-bearing elements of a frame building is 0.5–1 m. The distance depends on the planned loads.

   The optimal step between the power elements is from 0.5 to 1 m

6. Vertical racks can be installed alternately and temporarily fixed. After this, the top trim is performed. To speed up and simplify the fixation process, you can make a template for the length of the auxiliary supports. You need to pull a thread between the supports in the corners and walk around the perimeter with a template. You should check the distance between the row of strapping and the thread in all areas of the structure. If there are no errors, you need to cut off the required number of supports using the template.
7. All parts are fastened together with nails.
8. The top trim is being installed. It should be secured to corner posts. To remove the deflection of the board, temporary supports need to be installed in several places. As a result, each intermediate post can be attached to two frames at once.

   At the next stage, the intermediate racks are installed according to the diagram

9. The use of metal corners allows you to reduce the time required to fix the frame, as well as reduce the need for material for the manufacture of temporary supports.
10. Horizontal shelves are laid between the supports.

    Top strapping beam and fixed intermediate posts

11. Once the frame is installed, you can begin covering the walls. Sheathing is best done using lining or OSB boards. Screws should be used as fastening elements.
12. The remaining intermediate parts are gradually installed and the cladding is carried out.

If you plan to make a frame bathhouse with an attic, you need to leave space for installing doors and windows.

For the frame structure, 100 mm strips are used, so the insulation must be of appropriate thickness.

The thickness of the mineral wool should correspond to the thickness of the boards

During the installation process, the excess length and width can be compressed, as a result the resulting gaps will be tightly closed.

During the insulation process, each connection must be carefully inspected, otherwise the structure will be leaky. Such baths are unsuitable for use. Vapor and waterproofing is made from foil. The minimum thickness of the material is 40 microns. The foil joints are sealed with tape or foil film. The foil is laid in strips from bottom to top. To secure the foil to the wood pieces, you need to use a hand stapler.

How to arrange a roof

For convenience, you can make a template that will allow you to easily assemble the rafter system.

Installation gable roof must be carried out according to the scheme. A template can make the process easier

You will need to do the following:

1. The roof must be assembled on the ground and then lifted up. Each structure is located above the corresponding rack.
2. To make work easier, temporary ceilings made of thick planks can be laid on the slats.
3. Each part has its own place above the rack, so it is important not to make mistakes when performing calculations.
4. It is recommended to make the roof ventilated. To do this, you need to lay the sheathing and ondulin between rafter legs and a counter rack.
5. The gables need to be covered with OSB boards.
6. Doors and windows are being installed.

After this, you can sheath the structure on both sides. It is also important to take care of quality ventilation. For a small bathhouse, an asbestos-cement pipe with a diameter of 12 cm is suitable. The part must be taken to the attic.

The outside of the bathhouse is covered with siding, boards, plaster or ceramic tiles. Waterproofing material should be laid under the sheathing. The resulting gaps can be filled with thermal insulation material. You need to leave a small gap between the clapboard and the foil for ventilation. For this purpose, strips several cm thick should be nailed to the vertical supporting parts. The distance between the elements must be selected taking into account the distance between the supports.

In the diagram you can see the design of the wall cladding

To give rigidity to the walls, they need to be covered with plaster shingles. After the cladding work is completed, the outside of the structure must be plastered.

Guidelines for internal cladding of frame buildings:

1. The inside of the building should not be painted, as paints and varnishes will release harmful chemicals when heated.
2. To make a rough ceiling, you should use OSB boards. They must be secured to the bottom of the floor beams.
3. The walls in the steam room should be covered with foil. The remaining walls can be covered with glassine.
4. The minimum ceiling height is 2.2 m. In this case, it will be possible to install lining and additionally insulate the ceiling.
5. It is important to pay attention to the joints between the walls and ceiling structure. The vapor barrier material must protrude at least 15 cm.

The slats can be nailed different methods- during the fitting process, a selection is made into a groove or a quarter. The slats must be attached to the joists with the front part.

There is no need to make holes between the foil and the corrugated sheet; the sheets are nailed to the foil. Fixation is done using self-tapping screws with rubber gaskets.

After this, the furnace and boiler are installed. It is important to remember the rules fire safety. The wall that will be used for the soaring room and resting place must be made of brick. It is recommended to place the heating boiler in the dressing room. The best option is a brick stove, but if you have no experience in laying a similar structure, it is recommended to entrust this work to a qualified stove-maker.

When working with foil, you need to be careful, as the material is easily damaged. Any gaps will significantly reduce the effectiveness of thermal insulation. The vapor barrier should be fixed with a stapler, and it is important to ensure that there is no sagging of the material. The minimum distance between the wooden paneling and the insulating material is 1 cm.

Frame structures are convenient in terms of finishing. Work can be done both inside and outside. If there is a forced break, you can make partition frames at this time, upholstering them with blockhouse or clapboard. In this case, the time will be spent usefully.

For most regions, the optimal thickness of the walls of a frame building is 10 cm. Insulation can be done either with mineral wool or with expanded polystyrene. A layer of mineral wool 12 cm thick can replace a wall made of bars 50 cm thick.

You can insulate a bathhouse from the inside using mineral wool

For northern regions with cold climates, there are 2 methods of insulating a bath:

If you plan to use expanded polystyrene, then after installing the sheets you need to make a thin screed using a mesh of reinforcement. Finally, a topcoat should be applied.

During the cooking process, they will be mixed in water with clay, and therefore the insulation will have a lot of weight. Besides, a large number of liquids often cause wet ceiling parts made of wood. This has Negative influence on the operational characteristics of the bathhouse building.

Frame walls are an excellent bait for rodents who love polystyrene foam. In 2–3 years, solid sheets can turn into dust. Therefore, it is not recommended to use polystyrene foam for insulating rooms inside a frame structure.

Particular attention should be paid to the quality of vapor and waterproofing. Such a bathhouse does not have free supports; each of them will carry the load and hold other parts of the building. If the strength is compromised due to prolonged exposure to moisture with one rack, the sauna may become unstable. In this case, complex renovation work. It is best to prevent such a situation at the stage of insulating the rooms.

To insulate the insulation, it is best to use aluminum film.

It is best to insulate the insulation with aluminum film

However, the material is not cheap. If you want to save money, you can use plastic film. The material is cheaper, but in terms of steam and water protection parameters it is practically not inferior to foil. It should be remembered that polyethylene can be damaged when exposed to sunlight. For this reason, it is important to cover the frames. This will reliably protect the film from exposure to ultraviolet radiation.

Video: do-it-yourself frame bath

What to build a bathhouse from? Many, without hesitation, will answer that it is made of timber or logs. Indeed, this material has been tested for centuries, but it has a number of features that need to be kept in mind before construction. First of all, it's worth quality wood Now it’s not cheap, and skimping on its quality means dooming yourself to constantly filling up the cracks. Secondly, construction becomes more expensive due to the need for a monolithic foundation for a heavy structure. Thirdly, you will have to wait a year for the bathhouse to shrink, and only then start working on it. Finishing work. It won't be long before you get a steam bath. Is there an alternative? Yes, this is a frame bathhouse that is easy to build with your own hands.

Advantages of frame construction

A frame bath has several advantages over those built from timber or logs.

1. Construction will cost approximately 2 times less. There will be savings on almost everything, from the purchase of materials.
2. In addition to material savings, there are savings in time and labor costs. In the warm season, a bathhouse using frame technology can be built in a few weeks. It is also not necessary to involve a professional team: you can get by with 1-2 assistants.
3. A frame building does not shrink as much as a wooden one. You can finish and use it immediately, rather than waiting 1-1.5 years.
4. A properly insulated frame bath is, in fact, a thermos, since the thermal conductivity coefficient of modern insulation is 5-6 times lower than that of wood. It retains heat for a long time, and there are no cracks through which the wind can blow. An additional advantage is that modern materials used for cladding do not burn, therefore, the likelihood of a fire is lower.
5. Thanks to its excellent thermal insulation, it warms up faster, in just 2-3 hours. Wooden ones need twice as much time to warm up. This entails significant savings in firewood, especially if you estimate their quantity per year.
6. The frame can be sheathed inside and outside with a large number of materials, so that the bathhouse can be given a unique look or, conversely, it can be harmoniously combined with other buildings on the site.

Bath plan

To build a frame bath, it is important to draw up an accurate plan, as this will allow you to use materials more efficiently and avoid mistakes.

• Before compiling it, you need to decide whether the steam room will be built-in or separate, and how many people it should be designed for. All other proportions of the structure will depend on the size of the steam room.
• You must first take into account the location of the stove and its type, since a separate foundation must be poured under it, in the case of a brick one, or the floor frame must be strengthened, in the case of a stove.
• Take into account the communication lines to the bathhouse. Decide whether you will connect it to the sewer system on the site. If there is no possibility of water supply, then you need to think about a place for the tank.
• Plan auxiliary rooms, since their area and quantity will affect the thermal insulation of the steam room.
• Select the roofing material in advance, as its type will affect the thickness and number of rafters.

Once all these questions have been answered, you can make a plan. Typically, a frame bathhouse consists of a vestibule, a dressing room, a washing room and a steam room. If space allows, you can equip a rest room. When designing, you need to take into account that to conserve heat, all doors must open into the premises. You can use a ready-made standard plan, of which there are many on the Internet, or purchase a professionally developed one from a construction company.

Preparatory work and foundation

Like any construction, the construction of a bathhouse begins with removing the fertile layer of soil, compacting the remaining one and marking out the foundation. At the same stage, it is necessary to lay water pipes, and if it is decided to connect to the sewer, then sewer pipes as well.

The type of foundation for a frame bathhouse is selected taking into account several factors: the soil on the site, the number of floors in the building and the total weight of the building, which depends on the material chosen for the roof and frame beams. For a building with a roof made of corrugated sheets and a frame made of timber on soil with slight heaving, they are limited to piles or, for example, using plastic or asbestos-cement pipes.

Materials

To build a frame bathhouse, you will need a not too extensive list of materials.

1. To assemble the frame, you can use a beam or a special metal profile. The structure made of timber is more popular, it weighs less and is easier to assemble. The most optimal one is with a cross section of 5*10 cm for intermediate supports and 10*10 for corner posts and two strapping belts. The quantity is calculated according to the drawing. Boards 2-3 cm thick and 10-15 cm wide for interior cladding and ceilings.

2. The frame is sheathed with OSB or DSP, preferably moisture-resistant. It is worth deciding on the sheathing material during the design process, since the frame racks are placed at a distance of one slab from each other, so that the joint falls on the beam. OSB is preferable due to the fact that to work with them you will need the same material as for wood, while DSP can only be cut with a grinder.

3. Mineral wool (URSA 100 mm or equivalent), fiberglass or polystyrene foam is used as insulation. The latter can only be used for those rooms where there is no strong heating (dressing room, rest room), since when the temperature rises it releases harmful substances. The thickness of the insulation must match the thickness of the timber used for the frame.

4. In addition to insulation, vapor and waterproofing is needed. It is not recommended to use roofing felt, as when heated it begins to smell specific. Roofing felt is used only for laying between the foundation and the lower trim and external waterproofing.

5. It is better to choose natural material for the interior lining - wooden lining, it will create the effect of a steam room in a bathhouse made of natural wood -.

6. The outside of a frame bathhouse can be covered with a block house, clapboard, stone or lined with brick.

7. Brick or metal sheets to protect the wall and floor near the stove from sparks.

8. Fasteners (corners, plates), wood screws, nails.

Construction of the frame

The frame is erected after the foundation has completely hardened. Roofing felt and logs for the subfloor are laid on it, and then they begin to assemble the lower strapping belt. The timber must first be treated with an antiseptic and antipyretic. The evenness of the walls depends on how horizontal the bottom frame is, so it is necessary to constantly use a level when laying beams and laying thin boards or roofing felt. The beams are fastened together with metal plates, and attached to the foundation anchor bolts. The correct assembly of the lower trim can be checked by comparing both diagonals; they should be equal.

Walls, external and internal, are easier to construct from frames that are assembled on the ground. The corners and sides of each frame are carefully measured. The parts are fastened “in half a tree” and fixed with nails or self-tapping screws and corners and metal plates. Grooves are made in the logs for installing intermediate beams. The distance between the beams is affected by the width of the material with which the frame will be sheathed. So, for OSB sheets with a width of 120 cm, the gap between the beams will be 60 cm. Additional racks are installed under windows and near doorways. The frames are attached to the lower frame and connected to each other. Another strapping belt is assembled on top, and floor boards are laid on top of it.

Warm walls

The wall “pie” for a frame bath looks like this:

• lining,
• interior lining,
• vapor barrier,
• stand of insulation,
• waterproofing,
• outer frame cladding,
• facing material for walls.

After erecting the frame, the internal cladding is made of boards 2-3 cm thick. The preferred species are linden, aspen, larch; they are not subject to rotting and do not deform under the influence of moisture. The boards are nailed to the vertical beams with two nails. Wooden lining is most often used as a finishing material, which, among other advantages, strengthens the structure.

For vapor barrier, you can use glassine or a special film covered on one side with foil. The foil is placed towards the room, so it will warm up faster. Vapor barrier during the construction of a frame bath is necessary, since it is necessary to prevent condensation and moisture from entering the structure from the walls.

It is located behind the vapor barrier. It must completely fill the space between the beams and be equal in thickness to them, this will ensure thermal insulation at the proper level. Next, waterproofing is attached to the beams, for which a special film is used. Roofing felt is also acceptable, since with well-insulated walls, heating from the steam room will not affect it.

Then it is sheathed from the outside. DSP or OSB sheets are attached to the beams. If the project is drawn up correctly, there will be no problems at this stage. The outside of the bathhouse can be covered with clapboard, siding, block house or boards to give it a traditional look.

Roof and floor

The roof can have any design, but it is traditionally constructed gable with rafter system . When building a bathhouse, it is advisable to provide good ventilation roofs. If the vertical posts are located every 60 cm, then the frame can easily withstand such a load. Particular attention is also paid to the insulation of the ceiling; the space between the ceilings is filled with mineral wool, expanded clay or sawdust. Like the walls, the ceiling must be protected by a layer of vapor barrier.

In a frame bath, the floor is made using the same technology as in a wooden one.

Important Note

Although modern materials are characterized by low flammability, a lot of wood is still used in the bathhouse. It is necessary to take into account fire safety requirements: the wall near which the stove will be located must be made of bricks, they also need to lay out a platform around it or cover the adjacent walls and floor with metal sheets.

Frame technology is an excellent option for those who want to build a bathhouse at low cost, but without compromising functionality and durability.