Step-by-step production of paving slabs at home. How to make paving slabs at home

Manufacturing process paving slabs at home is not as complicated as it might seem at first glance.

Of course, this will require some special equipment in the form of a portable concrete mixer, vibrating table and a certain amount various forms for paving slabs.

In addition, you will need a collecting shovel to mix the composition in the required proportion, a 10-liter bucket for the working mixture, trays for the finished tiles, and work gloves.

All these efforts and expenses pay off quickly enough, because, due to the high demand of this material, the production of paving slabs at home can not only satisfy your own needs, but also become a profitable business!

In addition, with certain skills and dexterity, you can do without a vibrating table or make it yourself.

In the same way, you can begin making molds into which the working composition is poured.

In addition to equipment, no less important are the raw materials, the use of which involves the technology for producing paving slabs at home.

As a rule, for the manufacture of paving slabs at home, they are used following materials and components:

• cement grade A-Sh-400 or more High Quality;
• plasticizer (it is optimal to use C-3);
• pigment-based concrete dye;
• granite screening;
• special composition for lubricating molds.

In addition, you need a suitable room in which the work on the production of paving slabs will be carried out.

It should be equipped with an additional layer of sound insulation so as not to irritate the neighbors.

Let us remind you that according to the Housing Code of Russia, the use of residential premises for production purposes is illegal.

Process sequence

The technology for creating paving slabs itself is quite simple; the method of its manufacture will not cause confusion even among a non-professional.

The process begins with preparing the molds of the required size and configuration.

To make molds, a special composition is applied to the inner surface of the mold, which facilitates stripping, while simultaneously extending its service life, which can reach 500 cycles.

In principle, you can prepare a similar composition yourself by mixing motor oil and water in a ratio of 50 grams per 1.5 liters and mixing thoroughly.

It must be remembered that excessively greasy lubricant can lead to the formation of cavities in the finished tiles and send the entire batch of finished material to waste.

To achieve higher quality molds, it is best to rinse them thoroughly before each pouring of the working mixture.

Then you need to prepare concrete mixture. You need to start by preparing the concrete mixer. It needs to be rinsed and drained.

The fact is that concrete for the production of paving slabs must be wet - this is a feature of this production technology.

Quality and strength directly depend on this finished products, as well as the curing time of concrete in forms.

In addition, the wet walls of the concrete mixer allow for better mixing of the composition, while simultaneously protecting the equipment from frequent blockages.

The next step should be the preparation of a plasticizer, as well as a dye for the concrete mixture.

The classic proportions used in the manufacture of paving slabs at home (as well as in industrial production) imply that the components should contain no more than 0.5% plasticizer.

Thus, 40 liters of concrete mixture should contain 200 grams of plasticizer. But you can’t add it dry.

The specified amount of plasticizer is diluted in 1 liter of water, and the temperature should not be lower than 70-80 degrees Celsius. The plasticizer must dissolve completely and without sediment.

After this, they proceed to the preparation of pigment dye for concrete. Its share should be at least 2% of all components of the working mixture in dry form.

Often, due to the high cost of the dye, they try to save money on it, which is fundamentally wrong.

Insufficient saturation of the tile with pigment components leads to the fact that after 2-3 years the tile loses its appearance, fades.

Upon completion of the complex preparatory work proceed to the actual creation of the tiles. To do this, the components mentioned earlier are combined into a single composition of the working mixture, poured into the mold.

Moreover, if the proportions of the mixture are properly observed, the composition takes on a deceptively liquid form.

This is what it's all about main secret which makes it possible this method preparing concrete for paving slabs in confined spaces.

The fact is that the concrete mixture for making paving slabs must be quite wet.

But the paradox of preparing such a mixture is precisely that its composition visually looks very dry.

Therefore, when diluting a sand-cement mixture, two buckets of water per three buckets of cement is sufficient.

The resulting suspension must be thoroughly mixed, avoiding the formation of bubbles and inclusions of large foreign particles and elements.

As a rule, for greater strength and faster setting, granite screenings are carefully added to the working mass during the mixing process, which serves as an additional binding component.

Forming paving slabs at home

Now it remains to carry out the final process of manufacturing paving slabs, which should not cause any difficulties if the previous stages sequential algorithm described above were not violated.

The prepared and thoroughly mixed mixture into an emulsion (or “milk”, as people say) is placed in a mold and placed on a vibrating table.

Such equipment, as already noted, can be built on your own.

In fact, the method of manufacturing such a unit is very simple - just take a simple (preferably metal) table, equip it with several independently placed springs and make the structure work from any engine.

This is one of the main secrets that distinguishes this method of preparing paving slabs at home!

If the equipment is working correctly, then the liquid contained in the concrete during the process of making tiles turns out to be very deceptive - the composition appears to be fluid, but it is worth turning the mold over to make sure that the mixture does not tend to the ground.

The secret of this physical paradox lies in the fact that the molding container, firstly, is lubricated with a special compound.

Secondly, the plasticizer gives the concrete that has not yet hardened increased viscosity.

Thirdly, vibration ensures high interconnectivity between molecules.

All that remains is to wait until the mixture placed on the vibrating table appears white coating(or film).

In this case, it is necessary to make sure that the suspension does not contain large pores, bubbles, any cracks or other defects.

Once the necessary conditions are met, the forms are removed from the vibrating table and taken to the final work area, where their contents are laid out on a dry surface.

This product dries in record time. short time- sometimes in 1-1.5 hours. Having achieved the purity of the forms, you can begin the cycle of creating the next batch!

Feasibility and profitability of manufacturing paving slabs

Producing paving slabs on your own at home is associated with a number of inconveniences, time, effort and finances.

It’s much easier to buy it in a store and use it for your own needs. However, if you compare production costs with prices in stores, the conclusion suggests itself.

Moreover, by organizing the production of tiles at home, you can not only save significant financial resources on your own needs, but also organize a completely successful business!

This is a unique way to combine business with pleasure.

Just compare the costs of equipment, materials and components with the cost of paving slabs in any store!

In addition, the independent production of such a popular material, which is gaining ever wider popularity, provides, in contrast to finished products offered by stores and construction supermarkets, an almost limitless variety of shapes, textures, textures and color solutions.

At this point, the process of making paving slabs can be considered complete. The technology for its manufacture is not complicated and does not require special qualifications.

With our help, your area around the house will become neat and well-groomed. Or maybe our idea will be an excellent opportunity to develop your own business.

All that remains is to wish you good luck!

Paving slabs are a simple and reliable way to create a garden path, path, driveway in a country house, or lay out an area in the courtyard of a private house. Depending on the place of application, the requirements for the tiled surface of the paths are: different requirements, regarding strength and installation method.

One of the factors that determines the longevity of a tile walkway is the installation solution. However, many people prefer to make paving slabs with their own hands.

Vibro-pressed or vibro-cast tiles

From a technology point of view industrial production, tiles can be made in two ways:

Vibro-cast paving slabs(cheaper, used in private construction).

Manufacturing technology: concrete solution is poured into molds that are placed on a vibrating surface. During vibration, the solution evenly fills the mold and air bubbles come out of it. Afterwards, the forms are placed on drying racks. After 2-3 days, the tiles are removed and dried.

Vibropressed paving slabs(more resistant, intended for use in places with intense load).

The production technology is similar, but the solution is additionally pressed with a press (vibropress). The result is a more compacted mixture and, accordingly, a stronger material structure. The tiles are dried in special chambers.

You can only make vibro-cast tiles for paths and paths yourself. Let us immediately focus your attention - homemade paving slabs are not intended for laying in areas of heavy traffic, but will become indispensable for forming garden paths in the country.

Which paving slabs are better – vibro-cast or vibro-pressed?

According to reviews on the forums, 80% of users agree that the best paving slabs are those that are made in a factory using vibrocompression. It is more expensive (~20%), but more durable. The point is that the resulting concrete is more dense and has fewer pores; therefore, the tiles absorb little water, do not crumble and are resistant to abrasion.

But pressed tiles have a limited selection of colors and shapes, while cast tiles, on the contrary, are easy to manufacture, which means they are more affordable, plus, you can cast almost any shape, and have a large selection of shades.

The tiles are subject to the greatest damage in winter, when water that gets inside the concrete freezes and expands. Of course, you can protect vibrocast tiles hydrophobic compounds, but this will not make it eternal; the service life is shorter than that of a pressed one. However, for private use on a limited budget, you can get by with homemade paving slabs.

How to distinguish vibro-cast tiles from vibro-pressed ones?

Visually. The first will have a heterogeneous smooth structure, the second will have a homogeneous, rough structure. Paradoxically, the vibration-cast one is more beautiful in appearance (at the time of sale) - bright, smooth (examples in the photo). The difference manifests itself during operation.

Advantages of paving slabs

Why did paving slabs become popular, leaving asphalt, concrete and embankment far behind? Because paving slabs for paths in the country have a number of advantages over other types of coating:

– moisture and vapor permeability of the coating. Under the path made of tiles, natural microflora is preserved, and moisture evaporation occurs as when loosening the soil, i.e. more uniform. This does not interfere with the growth of the roots of shrubs and trees, and plants growing along the garden path last longer without watering;

– aesthetics. Thanks to various forms and the colors of the tiles, you can make a beautiful design (lay out an ornament, pattern) on the country path; – maintainability and the ability to replace and move concrete tiles if necessary; - longevity. Cooked and
, will be in operation for 50 years; – the ability to create paths of complex configurations with your own hands.

There are two ways to obtain tiles for sidewalks and walkways.

• First, buy ready-made paving slabs. Less hassle, faster, simpler and not much more expensive. But no one is immune from counterfeit in this industry, and making paving slabs with your own hands gives you confidence in its quality.

• Secondly, do it yourself. We will consider this method in detail, starting with the material and ending with unmolding.

Master class on making paving slabs

Material for making paving slabs

You can’t make a quality product from just anything. Therefore, in the listing process we will focus on the properties of the material and the requirements for them.

1. Cement

Determines the quality of the tile. What cement should I use for paving slabs? To make the solution, you need high grade cement (M400 is a minimum, ideally M500). The grade of cement indicates its compressive strength. Accordingly, the higher the grade of cement, the stronger the concrete solution, which is the basis for the recipe for the production of paving slabs. The use of M-500 cement will give the tiles such properties as frost resistance, strength and water resistance.

Only fresh cement is suitable for making tiles (during a month of storage, cement loses 5% of its properties). You can check the quality of cement by squeezing a handful of powder in your fist. If it leaks through your fingers, the material is fresh; if it clumps into a lump, it’s better not to buy it.

Note. You should not try to save money by purchasing the M 300 brand, because... in this case, cement consumption will increase significantly.

2. Filler for cement (concrete) mortar

• large filler. Screenings, small crushed stone, slag or pebbles are used as filler. They must be clean to work.

• fine filler. This includes sand of fraction 0.4-0.6 mm. It is important that it does not contain impurities and clay.

3. Water

For solution used drinking water room temperature.

Sold in powder or ready-mixed form. Why do you need a plasticizer? Designed to impart additional properties to the solution, reduce the consumption of cement and water, increase the density of concrete, and facilitate the process of mixing the solution.

Which plasticizer is better for paving slabs?

The following received good reviews: Westplast, PLASTIMIX F, POLIPLAST SP-1, Master Silk. But the best (popular among users) is the additive Superplasticizer S-3.

Adding a plasticizer to the concrete solution guarantees low abrasion of the tiles and their moisture and frost resistance.

5. Dye for paving slabs (pigment)

Paint allows you to create tiles different colors. It is important that the coloring pigments are lightfast. Considering the high price of dyes (from 1500 to 8600 thousand rubles), two-color paving slabs are in demand. Dye is added to the top layer, the bottom remains gray.

Material prepared for the website www.site

6. Fiber fiber (reinforcing fiber)

Fiber for concrete is needed to increase the strength of the tiles. Polypropylene fiber is used to reinforce concrete (fibers up to 20 mm long and 10-50 microns in diameter).

For example, polypropylene fiber Micronix 12mm. (RUB 165.00/kg), chopped glass fiber (RUB 145.00/kg) or basalt fiber MicronixBazalt 12mm (RUB 98.00/kg) (in order in the picture).

Note. The length of the fiber should not exceed the diameter of the largest aggregate in the concrete solution.

A well-greased mold will make it easier to remove the tiles.

You can buy a special lubricant for molds, for example, Lirossin (Ukraine, 210 rubles/5 l.). This is a concentrate that is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Or Emulsol (Russia, 175 and 40 kg barrel, sold on tap for 38 rubles/l).

How to lubricate molds for paving slabs at home?

Users advise not to spend money on industrial lubricants, but to use analogues (substitutes):

• motor oil (can be used);

• soap solution. The cheapest solution of water and detergent, which helps to quickly remove tiles from the mold;

• sunflower (vegetable) oil.

Some craftsmen use a saline solution, but it leaves salt stains on the tiles, and silicone and plastic molds quickly become unusable. Others suggest covering the mold with two layers of varnish. This coating will ensure easy sliding of the tiles. But, this method is applicable only for plastic forms, plus, the varnish quickly deforms, which will affect the quality of the sides and front surface of the tile.

Tools and equipment for making paving slabs

Depends on the quantity of tiles being produced.

The simplest solution is to use an old washing machine switched on to spin mode. This homemade vibrating table for paving slabs allows you to get a perfectly compacted (compacted) mixture for making road slabs.

3. Rack for drying paving slabs (dryer). Any place where the tiles will dry in the mold for 2-3 days, without the mold for another week, and then finally dry for another month.

4. Bucket, basin or suitable container . Serves to heat the mold with tiles and facilitate the process of removing the tiles from the mold.

5. Molds for making paving slabs. There are no problems with the forms at all due to their diversity (can be ordered in the online store). To speed up the process, it is better to immediately purchase a dozen forms.

Types of tile molds

. They are used for the manufacture of tiles of complex shapes with different structural surfaces. The elasticity of the material (silicone) is both a plus and a minus of the form. The advantage is that they reproduce the drawing in the smallest detail. Disadvantage - the form expands (swells) from the concrete and changes its shape, which affects the geometry of the product (deformation). One form is designed (withstands) 50 cycles.

.

Used to make a simple pattern. Advantages of a plastic mold: flexibility, strength and durability. The estimated service life of the molds is 800 cycles.

.

Polyurethane holds its shape better than silicone, but is more expensive. The polyurethane mold is enough for 100 cycles.

How to make molds for paving slabs with your own hands

Several options for making molds from improvised materials:

• Wooden forms can be knocked together from scraps of plywood or boards, and fastened together with metal corners.

It will not be possible to make a mold from wood with complex geometry. The wooden mold can be made in the form of a triangle, square, rhombus, rectangle or hexagon.

Note. When planning to make a mold for paving slabs, keep in mind that its internal dimensions are taken into account.

• Plastic molds can be made from strips cut from utility boxes. It is difficult, but quite possible, to make a complex polygonal shape, the diagram of which is given below.

Note. In such homemade form The tiles are cast directly at the installation site.

• Forms from food containers (bowls, trays, plastic containers)

• Make it yourself from polymer (but this is already from the category of private entrepreneurship, all that remains is to register an individual entrepreneur and open your own business - a business for the production of paving slabs in industrial scale).

Advice. Choosing curly shape, pay attention to the presence of halves and parts (component elements, fragments) in order to avoid unnecessary cutting of the tiles when laying.

When studying the question of how to make paving slabs with your own hands, it is important to pay attention to how to choose the right proportions and how to mix the solution for laying.

Mortar for paving slabs - proportions, composition, preparation

To begin with, we will provide a ready-made recipe for a solution for paving slabs at given thickness at 60 mm. And then we’ll tell you how to mix the components correctly.

The composition of the solution for paving slabs is given in the table

Components (additives)	Proportions for manufacturing in%	For 1 sq.m. tiles	For 1 cubic meter solution
Cement M 500	21 %	30 kg	500 kg
Screenings or fine crushed stone	23%	32 kg	540 kg
Sand	56%	75 kg	1300 kg
Plasticizer S-3	0.7% by weight of concrete	50 gr	1.9 liters
Dye	7% by weight of concrete	700 gr	10 kg
Fiber fiber in quantity per 1m3 of concrete	0.05% by weight of concrete	60 gr	0.7-1.0 kg
Water	5.5% by weight of concrete	8 liters	130 liters

From 1 cubic meter solution can be made 16.5 sq. m. paving slabs, with a thickness of 60 mm.

To prepare good solution for paving slabs, you need to mix the components in a concrete mixer in a certain sequence, with a certain mixing mode.

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1. Preparation of the solution

The plasticizer is mixed with a small amount of water and poured into a concrete mixer. Only warm water is used for mixing, because... Additives do not dissolve in cold conditions. When stirring, you need to ensure that the plasticizer dissolves completely.

The dye is also mixed with hot (approximately 80 °C) water in a ratio of 1:3. You need to watch to coloring solution turned out homogeneous. The presence of lumps will result in the appearance of craters on the front surface of the tile.

Next, filler (crushed stone and sand) is added one by one, then cement. Periodically, water is added to the cement-sand mixture for more convenient mixing. The bulk of the water is supplied at the end of the batch.

Optimal mode (time) for mixing cement mortar

The mixture for paving slabs is ready when it adheres to the trowel in a dense mass without spreading. When pouring, the solution should easily fill the mold.

2. Preparing the mold

The surface of the mold is lubricated with the selected lubricant. During the process, you need to ensure that no stains from the lubricant form on the surface. The form should be slightly oily for better glide of the product over the surface.

Notes Excessive lubrication causes depressions in the tiles. If it is insufficient, removal is difficult.

3. Manufacturing technology of paving slabs (molding)

At this stage, the solution is poured into molds. Moreover, if two-color tiles are made, then the mold is filled with gray concrete by 75%, and then filled with colored concrete. The break between fillings should not exceed 20 minutes. Otherwise, the layers of the solution will not adhere firmly to each other.

Filled forms need to be shaken and placed on a vibrating table. The duration of the mold's stay on the vibrating table is 5 minutes. An indicator of readiness is the appearance of white foam - this means that all air bubbles have been knocked out of the solution. Excessive vibration treatment (shaking the mold) can lead to stratification of the solution. The signal to stop vibrations is the settling of white foam.

Advice. When making two-color paving slabs, vibration must be carried out after pouring each layer. The second vibration lasts 2-3 minutes, and foam may not appear.

4. Drying paving slabs at home

Forms filled with solution are placed on racks for subsequent drying, which takes 2-3 days. The drying place should be protected from direct sunlight and well ventilated. To reduce the rate of moisture evaporation from the solution, it is better to cover the molds with plastic wrap.

5. Unmolding paving slabs (removal from mold)

How to remove tiles from the mold?

To make the extraction process easier, you can lower the filled form for 5 seconds. into hot (about 60 °C) water. The heat expands the mold and the tiles are removed without defects or problems.

The product should be knocked out on a soft base, for example, spread out an old blanket.

Please note that the removed tile holds its shape well, but the mortar has not yet hardened completely, so the composition will crumble and may crack or break. The removed tiles are stored on the same drying racks for another week. Then it can be put on a pallet and finally dried for another month. During this period, the tile will gain the required strength.

How much does it cost to make paving slabs at home?

This is not an idle interest, but a rational approach that requires calculations, drawing up estimates to determine the budget and profitability.

Calculation of the cost of manufacturing paving slabs

Material	Price
Cement (M 500 Portland)	300-500 rub/bag 59 kg
Crushed granite fraction 3-10 mm (the larger the cheaper)	1,500-2,000 rub. per cube
Sand sifted	600 rub./m3
Plasticizer (S-3)	80 rub/l
Dye	from 1500 to 8600 rub/25 kg Cost depends on resistance to environmental influences
Fiber fiber	from 98 to 165 rub/kg
Mold release agent	from 0 to 100 rub/l
Shapes (price varies depending on shape, size and material)
- plastic	from virgin plastic: 69-200 rub/pcs. (depending on size) 43-60 RUR/piece. made from recycled plastic: 43-60 rub/piece.
- silicone	120-150 rub/piece.
- polyurethane	200-370 rub/piece.
- simple “bricks”	from 30 rub/piece
- original	up to RUB 1,500/pcs.

The table shows approximate prices per unit of production. The total amount depends on the expense.

The price of ready-made paving slabs of a simple configuration starts from 200 rubles. per sq.m., textured from 450 rub. Multiply by the required square footage (area) and add delivery. Compare your results. On average, savings range from 10% (for local tiles) to 25% (for branded tiles). At the same time, it should be understood that each manufacturer, in a competitive environment, strives to reduce the cost of its products as much as possible. As a rule, this affects quality, which cannot always be determined immediately, but only after some time.

Defects in paving slabs

In favor of making paving slabs yourself, the following can be noted:

• confidence in the quality of the product;

• the ability to make tiles in between other tasks;

• fascination of the process;

• a beautiful result and pride in one’s own success.

The technology for producing paving slabs is quite simple. You can do it at home. To make paving slabs you will need fairly affordable equipment. Judge for yourself, the most expensive thing you will have to buy is a concrete mixer. You can make a vibration table yourself. You will have to buy molds for tiles, but today they are not as expensive as before. Good shape made of high-quality material can be purchased at a price of $1 per piece. The price of the form is determined by the quality of the material, the size and design style of the form itself. To fully equip the line, you need to purchase a collecting shovel, a good metal bucket of 10 liters, a bucket that will be filled with ready-made tiles, and rubber gloves for safe work. When you have a fully complete line for the production of paving slabs, you can purchase and deliver raw materials for production:

• cement grade not lower than A-Sh-400;
• plasticizer C-3;
• pigment dye;
• granite screening;
• lubricant for molds.

The production cycle itself can be divided into several stages:

• preparation of plastic forms;
• preparation of colored concrete;
• daily vibration casting process;
• excerpt;
• stripping and new preparation of forms.

Paving slabs are manufactured using a simple technological process

Preparing molds before manufacturing vibrocast products. Paving slabs are made using simple equipment:

• vibrating table;
• concrete mixer;
• forms.

Here detailed instructions for the production of concrete products by vibration casting. At the beginning of the production cycle, it is necessary to prepare molds for pouring. It is better to use plastic forms. The technology provides for nuances in the forming and demoulding of vibration-cast products. Before manufacturing, we lubricate the molds with a special lubricant for high-quality formwork. The lubricant also increases the service life of the molds up to 500 cycles or more. It is better to wash greased forms after stripping before the next pour. This is also very important. For beginners, it is better to purchase special lubricant. If desired, you can make the lubricant yourself. But here it is important to clearly guess the proportions. This is how you make lubricant for plastic molds. 50 grams of motor oil should be diluted in 1.5 liters of water. You need to shake this mixture very well and for a long time. Experiment very carefully with the proportions of the lubricant. It is important for you to choose the ideal balance of fat content. Too much grease will ruin your entire batch. After very greasy grease, you get shells in the tiles. These paving slabs look more like shell rock. Low fat content in the lubricant will not give the desired effect when stripping. After greasing the molds, you can prepare the concrete.

Preparation of components for the preparation of concrete. Before preparing the concrete mixture, you need to prepare the concrete mixer itself. Use a bucket of water to rinse the nutria concrete mixer. Be sure to pour out the water. The walls where the concrete will be mixed must be damp. To make paving slabs, you need to make half-wet concrete. Its strength and the duration of aging of products in molds depend on this. Wet walls will mix the concrete composition better and will prevent the concrete mixer from becoming heavily clogged with mortar deposits. Next, you should prepare a plasticizer and concrete dye. The plasticizer should be 0.5% of the amount of all components of the solution in dry form. For 40 liters of concrete you will need 200g. plasticizer. Under no circumstances should plasticizer be added in dry form. It must be cooked first. Dilute 200g. plasticizer in 1 liter of hot water 70-80 degrees Celsius. The water must be hot so that the plasticizer dissolves well. IN hot water From a measuring cup, crushing it well, add plasticizer powder in small portions. Precipitation should not be allowed; it must dissolve well. Next we prepare the concrete pigment dye. The percentage of dye should be at least 2% of all components in dry form. If you make high-quality paving slabs, you cannot skimp on dye. You should end up with a rich concrete color that will last for years. Pigment dye is quite expensive and many are trying to maintain production costs by saving on plasticizer costs. But this approach is unjustified. After a year or two, the tiles will lose their color. Two years after rain, wet tiles will look like new, but when dry, the color is almost invisible. To justify saving dye, it is better to use the technology of filling in two layers. Fill the molds halfway with colored concrete and immediately with colorless concrete. Such tiles will be even stronger. Only the intervals between filling layers should not exceed 20 minutes. This way you can save expensive dye by 2 times. Pre-dilute 800g of dye in a 3-liter jar of water at a temperature of 40-50 degrees. Mix thoroughly and add in small portions. Under no circumstances should precipitation be allowed in the dye. This sediment can damage your tiles. A small clump of dye residue in the face of the tile makes the sink. Thus, paving slabs may lose their presentation and strength due to poorly diluted dye. If the pigment dye is not diluted well, it will not impart the proper color to the tile.

Technological process for manufacturing vibrocast tiles. When our forms are greased, the plasticizer and pigment dye are diluted, the concrete mixer is moistened, we can hammer the concrete. The technology for manufacturing paving slabs has its own characteristics for preparing concrete. This is a low water composition. The strength of concrete products depends on the ratio of cement and water. One has only to add 30% more liquid and the concrete will lose its strength by 2 times. The tile mortar, as mentioned above, should be half wet (like wet soil). It may seem too dry to you, but once it hits the shaking table, it will seem too wet. This is the trick that awaits you in the process of making paving slabs. Therefore, we add less water than cement by 30% of the volume. 3 buckets of cement require 2 buckets of water, including plasticizer and dye. This kind of concrete is quite difficult to mix. To do this, you need to pre-moisten the concrete mixer. Well, now we turn on the concrete mixer and first of all pour in a measured portion of water without dye and plasticizer. Next, add a portion of cement and mix to form a homogeneous emulsion (popularly called milk). Then we add screenings and we already have a solution. Mix well and add the pre-diluted components: plasticizer and dye. And mix it all well until we get a beautifully colored homogeneous mass.

This recipe for semi-dry concrete is intended for vibration casting of thin-walled concrete products or for the production of cinder blocks on a homemade machine.

When we have the concrete ready, we fill out the forms and place them on the vibrating table. The number of molds on the table plays an important role in the intensity of vibration. The table springs should not be too overloaded or too loose. The vibration must be at a certain intensity. Once you have placed the forms with concrete on the table and turned on the vibrating table, the magic begins. Dry concrete begins to turn into liquid. More and more space appears in the forms and you need to fill them out more. It seems that the forms on the vibrating table already contain liquid concrete, but if you turn the form over, its contents do not fall out, but stick tightly to the edges of the form - which means you are doing everything correctly. The vibration duration should last approximately 4-5 minutes. With proper vibration, do not turn off the vibrating table until white foam appears on the concrete in the forms. This indicates that all the air has escaped from the concrete. Then remove the forms and take them to a room protected from sunlight. The tile dries literally within a day. It is helped in this by the low water content and the plasticizer that is included in the tiles. The plasticizer not only imparts elasticity during formation, but also effectively dries and enhances the strength of the concrete product. The next day you can do the stripping and you ready tiles. It needs to rest for 5 days before being sold. This will give it maximum strength. The forms must be washed after stripping, even though they have been greased. Concrete is so tenacious that it still leaves marks on plastic forms. You can't wash them off with plain water. It's better to use a lot of salt. Prepare a high concentration saline solution in advance. This makes it much easier and faster to wash plastic molds for paving slabs.

Calculation of profitability in paving slab manufacturing technology

In order to produce 1 square meter of paving slabs we need:
One bucket of cement brand A-Sh-400 - price per bucket $1.5
Three buckets of screenings - price for three buckets is $0.4 (cost of screening for 4 tons with delivery = $32)
Plasticizer 200g. - price for 200g. $0.4 (price per bag of plasticizer 25 kg = $47).
Pigment dye 400g. (subject to two-layer filling of forms, color / colorless) - price 0.9 $ (30 kg bag = 62 $)
TOTAL: 1.5$+0.4$+0.4$+0.9$= 3.2$, and the cost of one square meter of colored paving slabs = 7.5$.
Business profitability is 135%. The technology for producing paving slabs brings quite a significant income. Of course, a certain percentage of rejection is possible. But the defect of such material will always find its use on a construction site. With such profitability, it can be priced competitively under different conditions. For example, when ordering 1000 squares there is a 30% discount. Colorless paving slabs have the same level of profitability. But it's harder to sell. Colorless tiles can be offered to create budget patterns when laying. This way you can save money and decorate your tile flooring.

Equipment for the production of paving slabs and prices

To make paving slabs you need to buy equipment.

Name	Photo	Price
Concrete mixer.		The price depends on the volume in liters, on average $1.5 per liter. Concrete mixer 300 l. will cost $450. The larger the volume, the cheaper the price per 1 liter.
Vibrating table		You can do it yourself; it will cost you $180 maximum. A new one will cost from $500. I highly recommend making a vibration table with your own hands, there is nothing complicated there.
Molds for making paving slabs.		It is better to take forms from good thick-walled plastic. The cost of such forms starts from $1 per piece. For one square meter of rocky-shaped covering you will need 25 pieces. And for a “brick” shaped square you need to buy 50 molds. It all depends on the size of the tile.
Bucket. Shovel. Latex gloves.		Available to everyone.

To calculate payback periods, we need the following indicators: cost of equipment in dollars productivity of square meters per day cost of production dollars per 1 sq. m. profitability in percent (%).

It is better to start calculating the payback period of a business with performance indicators

Let's say we want to produce 40 sq.m. Rocky-shaped tiles per day. We will need a 300 liter concrete mixer (this will be approximately 6 pumps of mortar) costing $450. Homemade vibration table $180. Molds $1 * 25 pieces per square meter “Rocky” * 40 sq.m. = $1000. Bucket, shovel, rubber seals = $20. The total cost of purchasing equipment is $1000+$450+$180+$20=$1650. Selling value of forty square meters finished product will be 40 sq.m. * $7.5 (price per 1 sq.m.) = $300. And the cost of tiles is 40 square meters. * $3.2 = $128. With an established sales market, the turnover balance (net profit) is $300 - $128 = $172 per day. It is important to note that the cost of production does not include the cost of wages to workers. The plan is designed for one person. This means you will need to prepare 1000 forms. Preparation may take up to 5 days. For this reason, your true balance per day will be $172 / 5 days = $34. Therefore, a fair payback period for equipment will be: $1650 (equipment purchase) / $34 (net profit) = 50 days. If you plan to work on weekends, then 50 days / 22 working days = 2.5 months.

Pros and cons of the paving slab manufacturing business

Overall the business looks very attractive. Advantages of a business idea: The idea does not require specialized investments to start High percentage of profitability Simple technological production process Short payback period. Of the minuses it is worth noting. Business depends significantly on seasonality. The process of preparing forms is quite long and boring (all forms need to be washed off the concrete with salt water and treated with lubricant). Anyone can start this business. It can be made both the main and additional source of income. The production of vibrocast products can also be used for cost savings. For example, consider purchasing tiles for installation near your home as an alternative.

If you have a construction project underway, then you probably already have a concrete mixer. You will make the table yourself, but you need to buy the molds. In cases of defective products, they can be used for other purposes at a construction site. If you are a very cautious person and are not ready to take risks, then purchase a couple of forms and try your hand at a meager cost. I assure you, everything works out for you. Paving slabs are a popular product in the building materials market. This is a consumable item. This is the most practical covering for the yard. For example, asphalt releases toxic fumes when heated. Concrete cracks at sub-zero temperatures. Mobility tile covering allows you to freely replace worn areas. Believe in the product you are selling and people will buy it from you.

If the owners plan to equip paths on their suburban area or areas around a private city house, then you will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will be used to do this better and more economically. Today, paving slabs of various colors and configurations have become a fairly popular coating used everywhere.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially since losses are possible during transportation, which means purchasing tiles with a reserve will also be an extra expense. That’s why many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount of money.

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for an option that is suitable in design and color.

If you decide to do self-production paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for quite labor-intensive work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations when the paths or area near the house will have exactly the appearance that the owners intended during development landscape design their possessions.

The advantage of home-made is that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own tile version, there is always the opportunity to experiment with color scheme and even molds, since casting matrices can also be made independently.

Molds for making paving slabs

If the store did not find a tile of the required configuration, or it was found, but the price is too high, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in quantities of several pieces, and with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for landscaping paths and areas on the site.

To do this, only a few copies of finished tiles of any color are purchased, from which the molds are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone you like for its shape.

The matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to do, but already during the production of tiles work will go much faster.

To make the mold you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20÷30 mm in height and 12÷15 mm in width. It must be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35÷60 mm. A plywood box is suitable as formwork, cardboard box or any other material that can withstand pouring plastic composition for forms. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound or silicone sealant.

Polyurethane compound mold

In the assortment of construction stores you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stones and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them is the domestic composition “Silagerm 5035”, as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding compound is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to Shor's table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

	Hardness 30±3	Hardness 40±3
Time for the formation of a surface film after contact of components with air, (min) no more.	45÷100	45÷100
Viability (min), no more.	60÷120	60÷120
	3.0÷4.5	3.5÷5.0
	450÷600	400÷600
Shrinkage (%), no more.	1	1
Viscosity (cP).	3000÷3500	3000÷3500
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1.07±0.02	1.07±0.02

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for making the matrix must be thoroughly washed and dried.
• Next, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in a 2:1 ratio, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to maintain the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer attachment, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When mixing the mass, the drill is turned on at low speed, otherwise the composition will end up with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, into which the template is placed face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, the formwork with pouring should stand for 5-7 minutes - during this time air bubbles will rise to the surface and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the form can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to be used for its intended purpose only 72 hours after the material has acquired all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the mold will be able to withstand even the poured mass heated to 80÷120 degrees.
• The compound mold will last long time, if before filling with mortar for making tiles it is treated with a special composition “Tiprom 90”.

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packaged in buckets, and requiring preparation in accordance with the instructions (in general, similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as sealant. You need to buy as much of it as you need to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, you should open the original packaging of one-component silicone after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. Regular grease is most often used as a lubricant.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. Thickness above top part the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute the silicone over the formwork, use a spatula or brush, which is dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone takes much longer to dry than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the poured layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the tile mold in advance, for example, by dedicating winter time so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for the summer, since it is better to work with the cement from which the paving slabs will be made in the warm season or, at least, at positive temperatures.

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard silicone one-component sealant are given in the table:

Main indicators of the material	Normalized values	Test results
Time of formation of the surface film after squeezing the sealant out of the tube (min) no more.	30	5÷25
Viability (h), no more.	8	6÷8
Conditional tensile strength MPa, not less	0.1	0.4÷0.6
Elongation at break (%), not less.	300	400÷600
Flow resistance (mm), no more.	2	0÷1
Water absorption by mass (%) no more.	1	0.35÷0.45
Density (g/cm³), no more.	1200	1100÷1200
Durability, conventional years, no less.	20	20

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to make matrices on their own, then they can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on a suburban site may not differ at all from those in the neighborhood.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy plastic mold(no special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently make paving slabs. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, you cannot do without special forms, and they can be made according to the instructions presented above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It never goes out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and neatness. It is especially important to use this tile option to design the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold measuring 300x300 mm and 30 mm thick is used to make the tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​called “California shagreen”. Plastic molds are convenient because they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during laying of the solution, but it is more difficult to remove the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. To make the mold last as long as possible, and to make it easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with a greasy lubricant before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enamel bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, as the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile may change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose this mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step is to mix water, dry dye and plasticizer until smooth in a separate container.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All ingredients are thoroughly mixed using a mixer - this process must be carried out for at least 3-5 minutes.
	After kneading, you should get a fairly thick, viscous, coarse-grained mass. It will acquire the necessary density during the process of laying it out in the mold and compacting it.
	Next, the resulting mixture is poured into a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed as evenly as possible over the shape by lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed using a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with solution, it must be carefully compacted, pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Next, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaken, air bubbles will emerge from the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops escaping completely. When tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if the molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table yourself. The mold is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and may vary depending on big side in cooler weather, this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has passed, the matrix is ​​turned over and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the mold to make the product come away from it more easily.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must completely dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the required strength, with the possibility of applying a full load to the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after production.

Production of original paving slabs “pine cut” in polyurethane form

The original design of platforms and paths is the laying of round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well and is subject to gradual rotting and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles, imitating a cut of wood, will be an excellent replacement for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from mortars of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to do than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out extremely carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called “pine cut” because it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. Interior It has beige color and the relief of the annual rings, and the outer frame repeats the pattern of roughened pine bark.
	To manufacture such products, a flexible polyurethane mold is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which will later help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with “annual rings”, one such tile will require white cement 100÷150 g, medium sand - 300÷350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20÷25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, colorant and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All ingredients are mixed well until smooth. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the mold, previously coated with wax lubricant. It may seem that there is too little of it, but this is a deceptive impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only over the inner part of the form, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side separating the middle part of the “round timber” from the improvised “bark”.
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed using a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. The mixture cannot be diluted, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid one below, and spoil the entire intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is not much mixture in the matrix, after the initial distribution the mold is moved back and forth across the table surface and gently shaken.
	Next, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly onto the mold.
	After this, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allocated for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for filling the frame of the round timber core with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and the entire main part of the tile, you need to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 g, brown color 60÷70 g, sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement are mixed well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, part or all of the remaining solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	Using a trowel, the mixture is laid out in the matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out over the entire surface of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue; one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, vibrating movements are made.
	Then, the mixture is compacted again with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​carefully turned over.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must completely dry and gain strength; this will require at least 2-3 days. When dried, the product will acquire more light shade, therefore, if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If you decide to make a mold for such tiles yourself, then as a basis you need to take natural round timber from any wood you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound during the manufacturing process of the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not be obtained. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small edge will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can carefully fill it yourself with a grout or regular cement composition.

Paving slabs made “on site” using a stencil

Another affordable way arrange garden paths- this is pouring them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device It is quite possible to quickly improve not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This instruction can help you figure out how to properly prepare a place for laying a path and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be paid to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation performed
	For such work, you will need to prepare the following tools: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump sprayer; - a container for mixing the solution or a concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable to deliver the mixture to the pouring site. After familiarization with the work process, each master can add tools to the list that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the presented list.
	Materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for laying on the ground; - slag or fine crushed stone. At the same time, it must be taken into account that from one 50 kg bag of cement you can get 6 ÷ 7 slabs measuring 600 × 600 mm and 60 mm thick. This list can be supplemented with curbs, since on an unfenced area the path will not last long - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after concrete is poured into it and it gains strength, not individual stones are formed, but solid slab, separated by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are attached, which will help you easily remove the stencil from the set concrete.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not be overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for filling it. To do this, first of all, remove from the marked area fertile layer soil, approximately 100÷120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay black on top of it. plastic film, which will not allow the sprouting grass to break out. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it conscientiously, then 50 mm is optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If you plan to fence the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the path is formed.
	Next, a stencil is placed on the prepared area, treated from the inside with machine oil using a brush. In order to save mortar, as well as increase the strength of the created slab and its unique reinforcement, coarse crushed stone can be laid in the internal space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be made as follows: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 g. plasticizer and, if desired, a dye is added.
	If 5-6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is mixed in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement you need to prepare 250 grams. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine crushed stone, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Add enough water to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. A concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle this volume of solution. m. To adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, you need to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are being made, then it is permissible to add color in an amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared form is filled with the prepared solution. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire stencil space. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is spread with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed blade, it will be easy to place the mass in the corners under the stencil bridges. It is better to add more mixture than required than not to add it, since the excess can be easily removed with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled along the upper bridges of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surfaces of future tiles to perfect smoothness, since their wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20-30 minutes for the solution to set, the stencil is removed from the tile by grasping the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done extremely carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet hardened completely, and there is a high probability of damaging one of the corners of the tile if you move awkwardly.
	The result should be a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous slab is placed next to it, maintaining a gap of approximately 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked for evenness with a building level, and if necessary, sand bedding or support is made from flat stone or ceramic tiles.
	Next, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution, which is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by borders already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the slabs and borders are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of special lawn grass, which rises only 30-50 mm.
	The spaces between the slabs can also be left empty. However, you need to take into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain seeds. weed, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the slabs.
	If desired, during the manufacturing process of such a coating it can be decorated with a bat. ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is leveled again with a spatula.
	If you want to add garden plot colorfulness, then the tiles can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions to which different colors have been added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always lift your spirits. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three forms for filling. This way the work will be more efficient, since a solution of the same color can be used to fill areas in several stencils at once.

When starting work on arranging paths in this way, you must definitely ask about the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all the work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work of arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, having only two or three similar matrices, you can quickly lay paths and improve the areas of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing ready-made tiles, you should remember that laying them correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if you can’t do the paving yourself, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will be at least equal to the cost of the tiles themselves.

The stencil will not allow you to make serious mistakes. Even without any experience in this field, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality, neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased care is shown, and the novice master himself mobilizes all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of a master - making paving slabs to look like natural wood

Paving slabs are almost the most popular today building material. With its help it is created beautiful view on the streets, in courtyards, parks and squares, and it looks better than asphalt, even the highest quality.

Many businessmen who know a lot about production and sales are increasingly choosing it for their products.

There are quite a lot of advantages in this business, but there are also disadvantages:

• Firstly, tiles are increasingly being purchased for beautiful design cities and private houses. Customers often do not look at the high cost of paving stones, so the prospects for their production are quite clear. But you need to remember that many people want to make money, so competition here is high.
• Secondly, registering such a business is as easy as shelling pears. There is no need for documents stating that this product has special certificates, and the owner of the future production in this case only needs. He may not even have a complete understanding of production technology and the construction industry in general. If in the future the manufacturer wants to present documents about the quality of the product to its customers, then a special certification service will help him with this by conducting special study. There they will check all the properties of the product and enter them into the quality passport.
• Thirdly, the production facility can be located anywhere, and when purchasing high-quality imported equipment and with a small footprint, the staff can consist of only three people.

Anyone can produce tiles simple process its manufacture. You just have to know that workers will be doing boring and monotonous work. With all this, this business, when built correctly, is characterized by high profitability and quick payback, although orders may arrive seasonally.

Types of material

You can find only two types of coating on the market:

• Vibrocast tiles can be bought everywhere due to the ease of its manufacture. You need to choose it for laying in those places where the paths are expected to bear a small load.
• Vibro-pressed and hydro-pressed tiles It is laid where there is expected to be heavy traffic with a large impact on it.

Paving stones also differ in the material from which they were made:

• Most often it is made made of concrete, as from the cheapest substance, and this material is the only one for the production of vibrocast tiles.
• Clay- This is another raw material for the production of vibro- and hydro-pressed paving stones. It will cost more, but the quality will be higher, comparable to roofing tiles.
• The most expensive type of high-strength paving slabs is produced from various natural stones , such as granite.

Required premises and equipment

Special equipment for the vibrocompression process will cost about 30 thousand dollars and include brick press, concrete mixer and punch. Equipment for vibration casting is much cheaper. Vibrating table, forms and concrete mixer will cost its owner about 5 thousand dollars.

After choosing the production method, you need to find a suitable room with an area of from 70 sq.m. The higher the expected production volumes, the larger it should be. The room can be located anywhere, it all depends on the choice of the owner. It is worth choosing an industrial zone with convenient access routes. Warehouses with production areas will be the best option. Saving on the delivery of necessary raw materials is not only possible, but also necessary. This is feasible if the future workshop is located near cheap raw material bases.

The main thing is the characteristics of the room. The electrical voltage in it must be at least 360 V. It’s great if it is always heated. It is necessary to have a sewerage system with cold and hot water.

You also need to remember about a constant temperature of 35 to 45 degrees Celsius in the chamber for drying finished products and in the warehouse. There should be a warm floor, and such conditions should be maintained year-round.

Necessary raw materials and their purchase

Concrete mixture is the starting material for the production of paving slabs. It consists of cement, which is its main component, crushed stone (granite screenings) with a fraction of 5 to 10 mm and construction sand with a grain size of up to 5 mm.

Additional components that may be present in the mixture are a plasticizer, various additives to increase its strength, resistance to cold and water resistance, and coloring pigments. They are used to paint small tiles. architectural forms: paving stones, fake diamond, sidewalk option.

All products should be produced only from high-quality raw materials and the production technology should be followed as accurately as possible.

All purchases should ideally be made from the same manufacturer, especially with a large order for all types of materials. If you replace trademark or any component for production, then not only the color of the product may change, but even important characteristics. This is fraught with various problems with customers and large losses.

Types of production technologies

Paving slabs are made in three ways:

• Vibration pressing. With its help, not only paving stones are made, but also stones for walls and partitions, as well as borders. The technology of such production consists of three stages and includes:
  • preparing concrete in a concrete mixer;
  • molding using vibrators and a punch. The material located on a special pallet is compacted in a few seconds due to the impact of vibration pulses. Later, the matrix and punch are removed, leaving almost finished paving stones on the pallet;
  • drying The pallet with the products must dry either under the influence of ordinary water vapor, or simply indoors. Ready-made concrete gains the required strength within 5-8 hours.
• Hyperpressing similar to vibration compaction, only here instead of vibration, strong pressure under a hydraulic press is used to compact the mixture. In this way, you can make a lot of tiles without requiring the presence of large quantity people due to complete automation. Absence human factor reduces costs and also has a positive effect on product quality.
• Vibrocasting- This is the third method of production. During the process, you need to prepare a concrete mixture and place it in special forms located on the vibrating table. These molds are placed on pallets and left for 48 hours directly in the production room. Then the finished tile is heated to 60-70 degrees for 2 minutes and carefully knocked out of the molds on a vibrating table. Of course, with this method of production, especially when using cheap equipment in conjunction with manual labor There will be much more chips and cracks than with vibration pressing. It is worth considering in advance the use of low-quality paving slabs in other sectors of construction.

You can learn more about the product manufacturing process in the following video:

Product sales channels

Advertising is the engine of progress! It all starts with her, especially in this type of business. You can resort to its traditional methods: advertising on television (preferably on popular channels, although this will be a little expensive), in magazines and newspapers on construction topics, on the Internet, on billboards, in transport and other crowded places.

It is also worth contacting managers directly construction companies and offer them your cooperation. This will help establish sales channels and recoup the costs of starting a business in the first half of the year. The main thing is not to sit still, actively promote and advertise your product, talking about its advantages.

Total costs

Starting a business is always fraught with waste of money. The production of tiles can be done in a relatively small amount:

• Certification of compliance with high quality standards - from 100 to 300 dollars. It is not necessary to go through it, but it is worth doing to maintain the prestige of your product.
• The rental cost for industrial premises, depending on their location, condition and area, ranges from $500 to $1,000 per month.
• The cost of the selected equipment is from 3,000 to 30,000 dollars.
• Salary to employees per month is from 1000 to 2000 dollars.

The total starting capital will be from 4500 to 33 300 dollars.

Profit calculation

When calculating income from the sale of tiles, it is worth considering:

• volume of its sales per month (in sq. m.) * cost of 1 sq. m. m.;
• minus cost (expenses for production of goods);
• minus turnover tax (it is 6%).

So, making paving slabs is a fairly profitable project. With the right consistent actions and a high-quality technological process, the payback in six months to a year will be 100-120%. Everything mainly depends on the size of production and established distribution channels.