The most beautiful stone fences. How to make a stone fence with your own hands

With the completion of the main construction work on the house, the question inevitably arises of how and with what to replace the temporary fencing of the site. Traditionally, the fence is selected to match the main style of the building, so that the appearance is respectable and the fence stands reliably and for a long time. A stone fence for a home is considered the most reliable and representative.

The technology for constructing brick and stone fences is not much different from constructing the walls of a building, and there is no special need to look for material - according to the estimate for the construction of the main frame of the house, a small supply of brick, cement and metal is always included. And the cladding for the fence can be purchased after the completion of the shrinkage processes.

The advantage of a stone fence

Despite the huge number of offers from manufacturers of metal, mesh, forged, collapsible, summer picket fences and hedges, stone fences have not yet lost their popularity and, apparently, will be at the peak of demand for many years to come.

There is a certain influence of fashion in this, but most customers choose a stone fence based on very specific reasons:

• Spectacular appearance and status of a stone fence. A stone fence looks truly respectable like no other;
• Durability of the fence and effective protection of the local area. If the device stone fence if planned correctly, the fence will easily withstand the most severe loads;
• Possibility of using stone fencing as supports or parts of adjacent buildings, for example, awnings or canopies;
• Any other fence designs serve mostly as decorative fencing of the territory.

In addition, the stone fence, photo, is truly beautiful.

Even the simplest fence made of sandstone, rubble or facing bricks it looks much more respectable and impressive than a chain-link mesh or hedge stretched over steel supports.

For your information! The disadvantages of a stone fence are its high cost and lack of flexibility in construction. Having once chosen the design and structure of the fence, it will be quite difficult to change anything other than the cladding in the future.

For a building lined with siding imitating natural stone, gabro or granite, a natural choice would be a fence imitating a stone of a similar texture and pattern. It is clear that if metal, polyvinyl chloride and polyurethane siding panels can be used for the walls of a house, then such a trick will not work for finishing a fence with stone. The problem is that the stone fence, unlike the walls of the building, is located at the front edge of the local area.

If on the siding walls of a house scratches and minor defects, which inevitably arise after 5-10 years, are practically unnoticeable due to the long distance, then on a brick fence with siding imitating stone, abrasions and seams will be clearly visible the next year.

This, of course, does not mean that it is necessary to use expensive natural materials to decorate a fence with stone. A similar effect can be achieved using polyurethane tiles that imitate natural stone. A fence made of natural stone will be more durable and realistic, and most importantly, much cheaper, but lining the fence with stone will require regular care and preventive maintenance.

Unlike the original stone tiles, a fence made of artificial stone can be periodically improved, for example, changing the cladding, painting and tinting, adding non-standard details.

Structure of a stone fence

Unlike most light fences, a stone fence serves as a small fortress wall, covering and protecting the territory of the house from wind and uninvited guests. Formally, an enclosing building made of stone can be divided into three main parts:

• The foundation is the most complex and capricious part of a stone fence;
• A fence or span of a fence in the form of an array of natural, artificial or rubble stone;
• Load-bearing supports or pillars, thanks to which the canvas or masonry of a stone fence is firmly held in a vertical position.

Hold a heavy one without additional supports masonry fencing various shapes and size is almost impossible, the higher and thicker the wall, the more massive the supports should be and the shorter the span. The distance between fence posts depends on the height of the supports and the width of the wall. For a two-meter wall, stone fence posts are installed at a distance of no more than 2-3 m. An exception is a fence made of French stone, in which spans easily reach five meters in length.

Otherwise, masonry made of heavy natural stone simply cannot be kept in a vertical position. A stone wall, with rare exceptions, is built by laying out the fence fabric in separate blocks or boulders on a cement bond. The result is a very heterogeneous structure with uneven distribution of weight load. In this case, it is necessary to add longitudinal reinforcement to the thickness of the stone fence. Often, a reinforcing frame helps preserve a wild stone fence even with excessive shrinkage or intense heaving of the soil.

The problem of heaving and lifting groundwater decided at the stage of arranging the foundation and support cushion. For this, the same schemes and techniques are used as in the construction of conventional buildings.

How and what to build a fence from

For the construction of fences, several options for arranging a stone mass are used. The simplest and most affordable for DIY construction is considered to be a fence made of stone and brick. In this case, the pillars and walls are laid out from any stone material that comes to hand; brick purchased from the dismantling of old buildings is best suited. The base strip and support posts of the fence can be made of brick.

The span can be built from any natural stone, for example, a fence made of rubble stone can be built over a brick base, or the entire perimeter can be made of brick and, after shrinkage, lined with tiled sandstone or granite scraps.

It is clear that the main issue in building a stone fence comes down to the price and beauty of the building. The most beautiful fence is made of torn stone, marbled limestone, quartzite or painted sandstone. Of course, the pleasure is not cheap, crushed basalt and granite tiles Moreover, for facing one fence with stone, at least 60-70 squares of plain material will be required.

For your information! Torn stone is considered one of the most successful solutions for building a fence, but due to its high cost, natural stone material is replaced with clinker or hyper-pressed tiles. As a result, the cost of facing material is noticeably reduced, but the appearance of the fence, however, turns out to be a little artificial.

Therefore, granite is most often replaced with rubble, washed pebbles, quartzite or sandstone. Sedimentary quartzites or calcites have a unique beauty, but are very difficult to work with, so they are used to decorate small parts of a stone fence, for example, the entrance to a gate or to decorate a porch group.

If you need to build an “eternal” stone fence, then the best option sandstone will be used. The material got its name for its specific appearance; during mining, stone layers easily split into tiles of approximately the same size with a rough chipped surface.

It is possible to lay a stone fence up to 70 cm high from plasterboard without the use of cement, lime or clay binders. Masonry made of sandstone can last up to a hundred years without problems, however, the appearance and strength of such a stone fence is inferior to granite or even crushed rubble. Clean stonework, without a binder, can easily be torn apart by hand, which is why in the last century stone fences were laid on clay with a small amount of sand. After laying, the fence dried under the sun and gained strength. Such stone fences can be painted or tinted to match decorative varieties of basalt or gabbro. A similar technology is still used to make inserts or fill spans of brick fences.

If, according to building conditions and soil capabilities, it is necessary to build a lightweight and at the same time beautiful stone fence modern look, then it is best to make a French stone fence. That's what they call hollow fake diamond from a slag-cement mixture, made by pressing in steel molds, photo.

The front surface of the “French” is dotted with caverns, so it slightly resembles natural shell rock. If necessary, add toner, ground chalk and other materials to the pressing mass. a large number of shells shells The result is an almost perfect imitation of natural stone. A French stone fence is built 2-3 times faster than from any other stone, and the appearance of the fence is practically no different from the most expensive designs from chopped basalt and granite.

If the construction of a stone fence with a perimeter length of 100 m requires 35-40 days, then the construction of a fence made of French stone will require 16-18 days, and when using a foundation strip made of ready-made blocks for laying - 10-12 days.

Special conditions for constructing a fence foundation

Any, even the highest quality fencing made of corrugated sheets suffers from a serious flaw. If the metal sheet can be easily torn off support posts strong gust of wind, the stone fence will withstand almost any atmospheric disaster. With one exception - there is a high risk of flooding and soil heaving when high level water, which means that with a weak foundation, the fence will simply be squeezed out of the top layer of soil.

Therefore, the foundation of a stone fence requires additional measures to ensure the strength of the masonry even in unfavorable conditions:

• If possible, protect the base of a stone fence from groundwater and flood waters, plan a site on the ground with a slope for the discharge of ground water flows;
• Attribute the perimeter line of the fence to the maximum distance from the walls of the building, the weight of one linear meter stone fence can be from 600 to 1100 kg, so strong pressure on adjacent areas can change the behavior of the backfill and waterproofing of the building.

Before making a stone fence, it is necessary to conduct a reconnaissance of the soil on the ground and choose the right foundation option. If the perimeter of the fence construction passes through complex folded terrain, and under fertile layer If there is a thick layer of clay or loam, it is best to use a shallow belt with bored piles or ready-made FBS blocks laid out in steps.

For your information! According to the standard, the depth of laying the concrete strip is taken to be equal to 1/3 of the height of the fence made of lightweight materials. For a heavy stone fence, for example, made of rubble stone, the depth of the foundation is taken to be at least 2/5 of the height.

How to properly build a foundation for a stone fence

The technology for constructing stone fences is somewhat more complicated, although if you have experience in masonry brick walls, making a stone fence with your own hands will not be difficult if you approach the work with full responsibility.

Laying the foundation of a stone fence

At the first stage, you will need to mark the tape for laying the foundation. For heavy rubble stone fences, the width of the trench is increased by 60-70%. If the height of a fence made of heavy stone is more than two meters, then the shallow-depth tape can be reinforced by installing piles and tying reinforcement with pipes for racks and horizontal crossbars. For French and brick fences, the width of the tape is taken to be equal to one and a half wall thickness.

A trench is dug to a depth of at least 55-70 cm, sometimes the walls are specially cut, giving them a reverse slope, like a trapezoid. As subsidence progresses, the size of the sinuses will only increase, so after removing the formwork, the free space of the castle is filled with a mixture of sand, clay and fine gravel screenings. To compensate for shrinkage in the castle cavity onto the ground, a roller 10-15 cm high is poured along the foundation strip. As shrinkage occurs, part of the fill will fill the cracks and prevent water from accumulating in the grooves of the strip foundation.

Regardless of the weight and size of the stone fence, the bottom of the trench is covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone; at least a double pass will be required manual tamper before you can move on to the next step. To avoid the loss of cement laitance into the ground, for porous sandy soils it is recommended to cover the bottom of the trench with plastic film.

For the manufacture of fencing, two types of base are used - with a stone filler and in the usual version of a reinforced shallow LF. A stone foundation for a fence is more difficult to manufacture, especially if, in addition to chopped household stones and large crushed stone, the structure is reinforced with steel reinforcement. Therefore, they resort to stone foundations extremely reluctantly, and only in cases where it is quite difficult to do without filling the concrete strip with stone waste.

The use of large pieces of rock and crushed stone makes it difficult to pour and compact the concrete with a vibrator. Therefore, both operations have to be combined. The technology for arranging a foundation for a fence with your own hands is practically no different from making a wall one.

Installation of pipe, binding of reinforcement and pouring concrete

After completing the preparation of the trenches, they proceed to laying reinforcement and guide supports, along which the structure of the load-bearing pillars will be laid. Two-inch round or square steel pipes are most often used as supports.

A reinforcing bar with a length of at least 40 cm is welded to the base of the pipe, and on top part put on a clamp made of two bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm or a repair double-leaf loop. The clamp attachment is needed to install struts that hold the pipe in a vertical position.

For low stone fences, the pipe is aligned along the marking cord and driven into the bottom of the trench, after which struts from boards are installed, and the leveling process begins. It is best to use for pipe alignment laser level, since when the fence is more than 10 m long, the marking cord stretches and sags.

For high and massive stone fences, a box - a thrust bearing - is additionally placed on the pipe. This is a collapsible box made from boards without a bottom. In this case, leveling the pipe begins only after installing the thrust bearing and tying the steel reinforcement to the bottom of the pipe. Part of the steel reinforcement is brought up through the box with a “mustache” of at least 30 cm in length and connected by jumpers, this will help tie the base of the pillar to the rubble stone masonry.

After the exact position has been found, large crushed stone and stone fragments are placed in the box, after which concrete is poured to ¾ of the height and the entire structure is left until the morning. After 12 hours, remove the thrust box and proceed to pouring the foundation tape.

Pouring the foundation of the fence with rubble stone filler is performed in the following sequence:

• The bottom of the trench is spilled with water or cement laitance, after which a layer of rubble, one or two stones thick, is laid out;
• The laid stone is poured with concrete and the second layer of material is laid in the same way;
• The stones are sprinkled with fine washed gravel screenings and hammered with a hammer to compact the solution.

In rare cases, the foundation for a stone fence can be poured directly into the ground, without formwork. In this case, there is no particular need to use rubble filler; you can do without it. Sometimes, to simplify the process, instead of using stone filler, the thickness of the concrete strip is increased by 20-25 cm and an additional layer of steel reinforcement is laid.

At first glance, this solution increases the cost of constructing a stone fence. But for long fences under 100 m, it is easier to pour the tape from a mixer than to spend two weeks of labor manually laying the foundation of a rubble stone fence.

We build fence spans from stone

No earlier than two weeks later you can begin constructing the pillars and spans of the stone fence. Laying out a rubble pillar has always required a lot of patience and eye. Typically, the construction of stone supports takes at least 4-5 days.

Walling

A box is placed on the post and secured with previously removed foundation reinforcement tendrils. The stones need to be placed inside the box in such a way that each quarry rests on three or four points at the same time. The space between the stones is filled with concrete mortar and compacted with a reinforcing bar to remove maximum amount air.

The next day, the formwork box is dismantled, and the surface of the column is checked for compliance with the vertical. If there is a slight deviation, then new installation the formwork is bent and fixed from the inside with spacer blocks.

Usually, stone is poured at a time in a layer of no more than 30-40 cm, this is due to the slow increase in concrete strength. To avoid deformation of the fence walls, the formwork on the fence is rearranged only twice, and the number of fills can reach 5-6. Since rubble masonry expands the formwork box less, through-screw ties are used instead of external struts, which are widely used for the construction of shallow foundations. With their help, it is much easier to keep the plank form from bulging or deforming.

The last row of rubble stone in the fence span is the most difficult to install. It will be necessary to replace part of the rubble with pebbles or smaller fragments so that the upper edge matches the horizon as closely as possible. As alternative option surface can be covered decorative tiles from porcelain stoneware.

The unpolished surface of natural stone is well wetted and absorbs cement laitance from the solution. Therefore, after the construction of the fence is completed, the seams in the masonry must be unstitched, and the stones themselves must be washed with cleaning solutions. As finishing the surface is painted and opened with silicone varnishes.

Construction of a lightweight version of a stone fence

In addition to the previous, casting method, when the fence wall actually had to be cast from concrete and stone, there are simpler options for laying out spans. For example, a fence can be laid on cement mortar in the same way as is done when erecting buildings made of brick or cinder block.

Chopped stone fence

Often, the plinth parts of building foundations are made using the masonry method. Pebbles or crushed rubble stones are laid out on the mortar in rows. To prevent the masonry from spreading under own weight, you have to build in reinforcement cages and wire mesh and pins. To prepare masonry mortar, high-quality cements with polymer additives are used to ensure good adhesion and plasticity of the fence wall masonry.

The appearance of such stone fences is quite unusual and differs from the usual columnar fences. If you see in front of you a fence made of natural stone without posts, then know that there is probably a brick base or reinforcement frame built inside the wall, which takes on most of the load.

A more expensive and prestigious option for a fence made of natural stone It is considered to be a building made of planks or chopped torn stone. The sides and flanges of such a stone are cut off, like an ordinary brick, and the front part is left in its original form. As a result, the fence is built from regular block and is faced in the same way as with clinker or porcelain tiles. Thanks to the uneven stepped natural surface, the fence looks as if it was built in the late Middle Ages.

A fence made of French stone has the highest price-quality ratios. This is not even a stone fence, but an entire fencing structure with additional elements that give the stone wall a very sophisticated and civilized look.

The only drawback of French stone is the low rigidity of the masonry. French stone is produced in several sizes, the smallest is 120x200x400 mm. The fence turns out to be very light and at the same time has low rigidity, therefore prerequisite The construction of a French fence involves the construction of a rigid strip foundation.

The pillars, like the foundation itself, are made according to a modular principle, which makes it possible to build fences from French stone in the most inaccessible places, even on hillsides and in dense urban areas. To prevent frost damage, the stone fence is painted and impregnated with water-repellent compounds based on silicone oils. Such coatings do not fade in the sun, do not oxidize and do not react with the concrete base.

Gabions - fence and hedge in one device

Of all the options for stone fences, gabions are the least similar to a traditional stone wall. They are rather perceived as decorative element landscape design, but it is not so. In appearance, a gabion fence is a mesh container made of thin steel reinforcement and wire rod, filled with stones. The mesh holds the stone material in the form of a certain structure - a rectangle, cube or cylinder. Despite some delicacy of the design, it is almost impossible to move or overturn such a stone fence.

The gabion manufacturing technology involves performing three simple operations that are accessible even to a novice master:

• Construction of a strip foundation or shallow foundation. Unlike traditional fences, a gabion requires a solid base, as level as a table, and a system of internal supports, without which a gabion fence would quickly turn into a chaotic pile of stones;
• Installation and filling of the frame with carefully selected stone. If necessary, the gabion can be disassembled, the ballast stone removed and moved to any other location.

Actually, the frame itself represents the main secret of the gabion fence. In essence, this is a mesh, inside of which there is a large number of stretch marks that compensate for the crushing effect of the stone mass. The side walls are tightened with springs, which makes the container rigid and elastic at the same time. Bulk fences made of stone can be of almost any shape, from classic wall structures to cylindrical containers.

Gabions are brought to the prepared foundation, installed on supports and interlocked into one cellular structure. Next, the containers must be filled with ballast stone. It can be ordinary sandstone, crushed stone or broken basalt. But if you wish, you can select stone material of several colors to create a two or three-tone composition.

According to the rules, the gabion must be filled in layers. After each layer, tension wires are stretched inside the container to compensate for the stretching of the walls. A larger stone is laid out on the periphery; the inner core is formed from the smallest stones. As a result, even under the influence strong wind or rain, vibration or overturning, the stone fence does not change its original characteristics.

Conclusion

Most stone fences were not originally built as decorative fencing. Heavy and expensive, requiring a lot of effort, time and materials, stone fences were used as an architectural and construction structure for the construction of buildings on difficult terrain. Only later did a stone fence turn from a means of strengthening slopes into the main element of the landscape of the local area. After the return of fashion for natural stone fencing, the era of stone fences returned.

A stone fence has many distinctive features and advantages. Such fencing is characterized by incredible reliability, texture and durability. For construction, you can use a wide variety of stone materials, which allows you to realize an endless number of design ideas – finished design will be able to fit harmoniously into any landscape.

The service life of a stone fence as such has no restrictions. It all depends on the quality of the masonry mortar and the correctness of the work. The installation of fencing must be approached with maximum responsibility. Of course, you can invite a team of professional builders for this, but in such a situation you will have to spend a lot of money. And why do this if all the necessary measures can be dealt with? on our own?

What is needed to build a fence?

First of all, we select the material for the construction of our fence. We can lay out rubble or hewn stone. Hewn stones are stones with specific dimensions and a specific shape. They are most convenient to use for masonry. If you have no experience in stone laying, it is definitely recommended to build pillars from hewn elements.

Rubble stone has an irregular shape and allows the construction of structures with a unique design. It is from this material that it is recommended to lay out the spans - it will turn out very beautiful and original.

Among the most popular materials for laying stone fences are limestone and dolomite, as well as granite and sandstone.

We purchase or extract the required amount of the selected stone ourselves, and then prepare the following working tools:

• or a container for preparing the solution manually;
• roulette;
• shovel;
• Master OK;
• level;
• rods and cord for marking.

A few words about preparing for work

After preparing all the necessary tools, we begin planning. We need to draw a sketch of the future fence, taking into account the features of its spatial location and size. In terms of dimensions, be guided entirely by your preferences and financial capabilities. The average height of such fences is 2-2.5 m.

We clear the site of plants and debris, level the soil and transfer the drawing to the area. For marking we use any stable rods and strong rope. We drive the marking posts into the ground along the perimeter of the future structure, stretch the string between them and move on to the next stage.

Prices for facing stone

Facing stone

Making the foundation

A stone structure will have a significant weight, so before starting its construction we must pay due attention to arranging the foundation. We will build a fence on a continuous reinforced strip base - the best option for heavy fencing.

We make the width of the foundation approximately 15 cm larger than that of the finished fence. We choose the height (the part of the base protruding above the ground) at our discretion. Builders recommend that it be no lower than 10-15 cm. We will be guided by this value during the further construction of formwork.

First step. We dig a trench about 70 cm deep.

Second step. We fill the bottom of the hole with a 5-centimeter layer of sand. We compact the pillow thoroughly.

Third step. We install the formwork. It can be assembled from boards, plywood and other suitable materials.

Fourth step. We lay the reinforcing frame on the sand cushion. To strengthen the fence, 8 mm rods will be sufficient. We reinforce in 2 layers. First, we lay a mesh of reinforcement at a height of 50 mm from the sand cushion.

We fix the second mesh 50 cm below the ground level. To fasten both reinforcing layers and further strengthen the foundation, we first drive reinforcement or pipes with a diameter of about 10 mm into the ground.

Fifth step. Fill it in. We remove the formwork after at least 2 weeks. The concrete itself will gain strength in about 1 month.

We build pillars

We will build the pillars using the sliding formwork method. The recommended dimensions of the pillars are 300x300 or 400x400 mm at your discretion. We will assemble the formwork itself from boards, fastening them with self-tapping screws.

First step. We set up the formwork for the first row of stones. We maintain the selected dimensions of the pillars.

Second step. Temporarily lay out the first layer of the column without mortar. The stones should fit as tightly as possible against the walls of the formwork. We exclude gaps between masonry elements.

Third step. Having carefully aligned the stones for laying the first row, we lay them using mortar. We use a thick cement mixture. If the stones have smooth edges, simply lay them out on the solution like this. If the edges of the elements are uneven, you will have to tinker a little longer. In such a situation, additionally pour the solution into the gaps between the stones. We will lay out all subsequent rows in the same way.

Fourth step. Having filled one row of formwork, place another on top of it and continue laying the pillar. We will continue to follow a similar sequence.

Fifth step. After waiting a day after laying out the first tier, we dismantle bottom part formwork. At the same time, we leave the overlying fragment in order to be able to attach the next tier of the wooden structure.

Having removed part of the formwork, we carefully seal the gaps between the stones with thick cement mortar, ensuring a neat appearance of the pillar and making it more durable. In the future we will do unstitching. Guidelines for carrying out this work will be given below.

Helpful advice! To ensure that the masonry does not collapse, we give each of its tier the opportunity to gain strength within 24 hours and only after that we continue work.

We lay out the spans

The foundation and pillars are ready. We can start laying out the spans. The optimal size of stones for laying sections is up to 20-25 cm. Such elements have a relatively low weight, which makes working with them easier and more convenient. If necessary, we break large stones into smaller fragments using a hammer or crush them with a hammer drill.

We will fasten the stones with a thick mortar consisting of a portion of cement and three portions of sand. If we want to get seams of a different color from the mortar, add dry dye to the mixture.

As a rule, the width of the stone column exceeds that of the span section. In view of this, the wall must be evenly shifted in relation to the outer and inner sides of the pillars.

We carry out the work in this sequence.

First step. Apply the cement mixture to the base.

Second step. We lay out the stones symmetrically along both sides of the span. We connect the edges of the section with thread. We will use it as a guide during further laying.

Third step. We completely lay out the first row of the span, filling the space between the edges laid out at the previous stage. It is best to place the stones with the flat side facing up. We fill the cracks and voids with a thick cement mixture.

We allow the masonry to gain strength during the day and lay the next row in the same way. We work like this until we reach the planned height. It is strongly recommended to lay out the rows with bandaging.

Helpful advice! To get an even top line of the fence, we lay out the last row of each span from stones of the same height.

During the laying process we work as carefully as possible. We try to prevent the cement mixture from getting on the front side of the masonry elements. If solution does get on the stones, clean it off immediately.

Finishing the fence

To make the fence look more attractive, we fill out the seams. They can be convex, shallow and deep. The third option allows you to visually expand the volume of the masonry. For the rest, be guided by your preferences and features of the design idea.

For jointing we prepare the following:

• wire brush;
• guillemot;
• foam rubber

The seams are most easily unstitched 3-4 hours after laying. Further cement mixture becomes too tight and difficult to joint.

We work in this order.

First step. We clean the stones and seams with a wire brush.

Second step. Using a scraper, we create neat grooves in the seams up to 10-20 mm deep (at our discretion).

Third step. My fence. To do this, we use foam rubber, a brush and a solution of 30% hydrochloric acid. We take precautions: we wear protective gloves when handling acid.

The fence is ready.

Additionally, to decorate the fence and ensure rapid removal of atmospheric moisture, we install special caps on the posts. If desired, the design of the fence can be supplemented with all kinds of forged elements - this remains at the discretion of the owner.

How to make a fence from gabions

The process of making a fence from gabions. Installation of gabions does not require special preparatory work. The walls of the boxes and the lids are connected to each other with special spirals or strapping wire. The boxes are then filled with natural material. It is allowed to place smaller stones in the central part, and large ones at the edges. When laying stones, it is necessary to reduce the formation of voids. The gabion is filled gradually, first by one third, after which the box is fixed from the inside, then the procedure is repeated

Length x Width x Height, meter	Cell, cm	Weight of 1 mesh, kg
1x0.5x0.5 (Zn 240g/sq.m.)	6x10	6,8
1x0.5x1 (Zn 240g/sq.m.)	6x10	13
2x0.5x0.5 (Zn 240g/sq.m.)	6x10	12
2x0.5x1 (Zn 240g/sq.m.)	6x10	18,5

Good luck!

Video - Installation of a gabion fence

Video - Construction of a fence from gabions

Video – DIY natural stone fence

A stone fence is the personification of reliability, because this material can withstand loads well and last for decades. But since blind fencing structures made from it look rough and massive, most consumers prefer combined fences. In this case, pillars are constructed from stone, and the spans are filled with other material (corrugated sheeting, picket fence, forging).

By origin, the material for the construction of supports can be natural or artificial. For the construction of natural stone pillars, the following is used:

• cobblestone - rounded material red- Brown, which is split in half to obtain a flat surface;
• dolomite is a grayish-white or yellow-brown mineral with strength, durability, resistance to temperature changes, and visual attractiveness;
• limestone is a sedimentary material that can be easily processed, but is capable of absorbing moisture. To eliminate this drawback, it is coated with a special water repellent. There are several types of limestone (marble, bryozoan, shell), differing in color and structure;
• pebbles - small, smooth, rounded sea stones. They are used in the construction of foundations, to fill the cavity of the column, but are not used to form the support itself due to their size;
• sandstone - durable, water- and cold-resistant sedimentary rock. It can be chipped, hewn, polished, which allows you to experiment with the appearance of the fence;
• rubble - a rock derived from sandstone, dolomite, limestone, represented by rough irregularly shaped boulders with a diameter of 15-50 cm. Rubble stone pillars are erected by analogy with brick ones, but due to the unevenness of the raw material they require bandaging every 30 cm;
• granite is a hard mineral of volcanic origin with high strength and aesthetic properties. Supplied in slab form.

Note: natural raw materials for the construction of fence supports can be both expensive and cheap. Some of its varieties (such as cobblestones, pebbles) can be found in nature on their own, but for granite you will have to pay a considerable amount.

Often, for the construction of racks, artificial raw materials are used that imitate natural ones. So in specialized stores you can find tiles imitating wild stone, slate, granite, pebbles, sandstone.

Masonry options

Raw materials of natural origin do not have the same size and shape, so it is impossible to work with them according to a template. Depending on the type of material, fence posts made of natural stone can be made in the following way:

• wild - minerals are placed in random order, joining them as closely as possible, so that the pattern is harmonious;
• planked - the rock is hewn, giving each element the shape of a brick. This allows you to obtain an almost flat surface of the supports and facilitate their installation;
• horizontal - the masonry of pillars is carried out in horizontal rows. Layered flat rocks are ideal for this;
• vertical - installation of stones is carried out similarly to the previous method, only they are laid perpendicular to the ground;
• rubble - the shape of the rack is determined by formwork, which is filled tightly with stone and then filled with cement;
• facing - the base of the support is made of brick or concrete, and then it is lined with flat rock of the same thickness.

Features of the construction of stone supports

Because thefence with stone pillarsIt is quite heavy and requires a foundation to be laid under it. The most suitable would be a reinforced strip base with a depth of 0.8-1.2 m. The optimal span width is 2-2.5 m. In the places where the supports are installed, so-called concrete cups are installed with metal pipes inside and a vertical reinforcement cage, brought out (for greater strength of the structure and adhesion of its elements).

Masonry using formwork

The use of sliding formwork allows you to quickly and conveniently erect pillars from natural stone. It consists of a box made of boards, the internal dimensions of which correspond to the desired dimensions of the pillar.

Step-by-step instructions on how to make pillars using formwork:

1. The formwork is stopped so that the steel rod coming out of the foundation is located in its center.
2. Corners are welded to the pipe, to which the gates will subsequently be attached, as well as horizontal fence logs.
3. The first row of stones is tightly placed in the formwork box, placing them with minimal gaps.
4. The first row is poured with concrete so that it fills all the cracks.
5. Subsequent layers are formed in a similar way until the box is completely filled.
6. When the concrete has hardened, the formwork is removed and the pillar continues to be built in height, moving the formwork to the desired level.

Attention: when carrying out masonry using this method, it is necessary to ensure the evenness of the supports and immediately wipe the seams and remove dirt, since after the mortar has dried, this will not be possible.

Features of erecting supports without formwork

How to lay stone pillars without using formwork? To do this, it is necessary to cover the metal base of the stand with rock, mounting it on thick cement mortar. At the same time, the rod provides fastenings for horizontal fence jumpers, which are installed at the level of the third row and in the middle.

The voids formed inside the rack are filled with concrete with the addition of fine crushed stone. Larger minerals are used to line the lower part of the support, and smaller minerals are used to line the upper part.

Please note: no more than 2 rows can be formed at a time, otherwise the masonry may deform under the weight of the rock. When the solution has set, begin laying out subsequent rows. The seams are rubbed down immediately using a wet rag.

After opening the seams, caps are installed on the pillars to prevent precipitation from getting inside the support and destroying it.

Stone cladding of supports

If thin flat minerals and artificial tiles are used as raw materials, then they are laid similarly to tiles on pre-constructed brick or concrete pillars.

Facing pillars with stone of natural or artificial origin begins with preparing the surface. Concrete or brick supports are cleaned of dust, dirt, and primed. A reinforcing mesh is attached to them and plastering is carried out. This will level the surface of the racks and further protect them from negative influences environment.

How to cover a pillar with decorative stone? To do this, apply a small amount of mortar to the tile and then glue it to the plane of the counter, pressing lightly. Finishing begins from the bottom of the support and is carried out while maintaining gaps between the elements of 1-2 cm. If necessary, the tiles are cut to the required size.

Upon completion of the work, the seams are rubbed down, the surface of the supports is cleaned of dirt and glue smudges, and covered with a protective compound. The last thing to do is install the covers on the fence posts.

A heavy-duty, reliable, respectable fence will not only serve to protect the site, but will also emphasize the special status of its owners. A large role in its arrangement is played by self-built stone fence posts, built with one’s own hands. If you show patience and use your imagination, you can build high-quality supports that will support the entire enclosing structure and decorate the area.

Fencing in dacha or suburban areas is not only a way to protect against uninvited guests, but also business card home, decorating the main building and allowing the owner of the house to make a statement.

An example of a fence made of natural granite stone

A fence made of stone makes a personal plot stand out from the crowd. In addition to superior aesthetics, such fences have many advantages. Let’s look at what the construction of a stone fence on a personal plot will allow you to achieve, and whether you can handle it yourself.

Features of stone fences

Our ancestors built a stone fence to protect their homes far before us. Despite the fact that such fences have very ancient history, they can give a head start to some fences made from modern building materials. Let’s take a look at what makes these structures stand out so favorably:

Materials for the construction of stone fences

Let's consider what types of stones can be used to make a stone fence.

Boulders or cobblestones

If you are doing this and there is a need to save as much money as possible, then this stone option is most suitable. The price of such material is very low, especially since it can be obtained for free, for which you just need to look under your feet.
Such fences do not have a striking appearance and look quite simple and concise.

Example of a fence made of boulders

You can embellish such a fence made of natural stone a little by purchasing cobblestones of bright colors. For example, you can find red boulders on the construction market, which will definitely make your site stand out from many others.

Gravel

This type of stone is the smallest one used for the construction of fences. Most likely, you will rarely see such a fence made of wild stone on your way: the size of the pebbles does not make its laying convenient. In this case, a fence is built from stone and brick, where the brick in the form of pillars is assigned load-bearing duties, and the gravel is assigned decorative duties.

The price of gravel, as well as cobblestones, is low, so if it is decided to make such a stone fence, the main expenses during construction will be associated with the purchase of bricks.

Dolomite

This type decorative stone has flat outlines. Its extraction is carried out using blasting operations in special quarries.

Original dolomite fence using forged elements

As a rule, if finishing fences with stone is necessary, then the choice is made in favor of this material. The price per square meter differs markedly: depending on the size and composition of the stone, it ranges from 200–3000 rubles.

Limestone

This type of stone, like the previous one, is used mainly for finishing finished fences. Its soft structure makes it very easy to work with. You can buy such material for 250–300 rubles/square meter. It is necessary to note some of it negative sides. The structure of this stone is porous, which makes it hydrophobic.

In regions with a damp climate, such a fence made of decorative stone will quickly become unusable: moisture will penetrate the pores and destroy the limestone from the inside. Thanks to moisture-proofing impregnations, you can avoid problems associated with this, however, you must understand that this will entail additional costs.

Tiger sandstone fence using metal elements

Sandstone

This type of stone is used not only for the construction of fences for suburban areas, it is also actively used in the construction of houses. Sandstone is not afraid of water and cold, so the service life of fences made from this decorative stone is very long. Thanks to all the advantages, it is very popular and very expensive.

To buy a cube of such material you need to shell out about five thousand rubles.

If you only need to finish the fence, then you can buy tiles from this material, which will cost up to a thousand rubles per square meter.

Rubble stone

A fence made of rubble stone can be built entirely or can be lined with it. This material is very common in the construction of fences due to its strength characteristics. You can buy rubble stone for about 250 rubles per kilogram.

Artificial stone

Thanks to development modern technologies In the construction industry, new materials are increasingly appearing on the market. Artificial stone is very popular for finishing fences, using which an imitation of any natural stone is achieved.

Looks no worse than fences natural materials, and its cost is significantly less. Thanks to the variety of colors, textures and shapes, such a fence can fit into any exterior of a personal plot.

Construction of a stone fence

Building a stone fence with your own hands is not easy. You need to have a lot of free time, and also be prepared for some difficulties. Let's look at the process of constructing fences of this type step by step:

Let's talk about each of the stages of construction in more detail.

Marking

Determination of the boundaries of the future fence is carried out in the case of erecting fences from any materials. At this stage, you can decide on the consumption of materials, for which you need to calculate the length of the fence, its height and width.

Construction of the foundation

Usually they provide for fences. Work begins with excavation of soil along the border of the fence being built. The trench is made up to 600 mm wide and up to 800 mm deep, after which it is filled with mortar. It is necessary to equip the foundation even where the gate will be located to ensure the integrity of the structure.

It should be noted that it is imperative to strengthen the foundation with reinforcement to prevent cracking in the future.

Installation of formwork for pouring the foundation

After pouring, the base is left to dry. If work is carried out in hot weather, it is necessary to periodically wet the hardening structure so that the foundation does not dry out.

Preparatory work

Since there are about three weeks before the foundation hardens, you can devote this time to preparing the building material. First, you need to sort the stones by size, which will allow you to lay the stones much faster in the future.

If you come across very large elements, it is better to crush them, because they may not fit anywhere. You should also clean the stones from dirt and wash them.

Installation of poles

The pillars are needed in the fencing structure to ensure the reliability of the future structure. It is recommended to install them in glasses pre-installed into the foundation. The core of the pillars should not be left hollow; it is best to place stones there and fill it with mortar.

Example of a natural stone fence post

To save money, you can use cheaper stones or use unnecessary leftovers. The height of the pillars can be equal to the height of the fence or be greater at the discretion of the builders. After completing the work, you need to let the pillars stand for two weeks, and only after that begin further work.

Stone fence looks more impressive and solid than other types of fencing. Structures made from natural materials are characterized by high levels of strength and reliability.

However, natural stone fences are much less common than, for example, wooden or metal fences for a summer cottage with brick pillars. This is due to the fact that natural materials and work on the construction of exclusive structures are more expensive.

Another important factor is high time costs. Even a team of professionals will need a lot of time to erect the fence.

The process can be speeded up by making a fence from stone panels and blocks. The resulting structure imitates natural materials. But the design will only seem natural from afar. Up close, stone panels and blocks for fence posts will immediately give the appearance of “hack work.”

In this article we will look at the features of constructing natural stone fences. You will learn what materials are used to make supports and sections and how professionals work. If you wish, you can build such a fence yourself.

Types of stone fences. Popular combinations

There are various options for stone fences. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Fences made only of stone are rare.

Photo No. 1: stone fence

The construction of such fences requires a lot of time and money. Combinations of stone pillars and sections made of wood or metal are more popular. Such structures are cheaper and erected much faster.

Wooden fence with stone pillars

A wooden fence with stone pillars is the beauty and environmental friendliness of natural materials. With proper care, the sections will last a long time. Wood will require periodic processing protective compounds and paint and varnish materials.

Photo #2: wooden fence with stone pillars

Metal fences with stone pillars

Metal fences with stone pillars are reliable and durable. The buildings look impressive and perfectly protect the territory. The structures last for decades without the need for maintenance or repair.

Most often, sections are installed from Euro picket fences, corrugated sheets and forged elements. There are some very interesting combinations.

Photo #3: metal fence with stone pillars

Stone pillars for a fence. Selection of materials

Stone fence posts are made from various varieties of this natural material.

• Granite. Durable and expensive stone. It is difficult to process and is used mainly for finishing. Granite will effectively complement a metal or wooden fence with brick pillars.

Photo No. 4: fence with granite finishing

• Cobblestone. Most popular material. Advantages: prevalence and low cost. Most often, gray and red-brown cobblestones are used when constructing fences. The results are reliable and beautiful designs.

Photo No. 5: gray cobblestone fence

• Gravel and pebbles. Due to the fine fraction, these materials are used mainly for finishing. Large stones can be placed in the net. The result is an inexpensive and interesting fence.

Photo No. 6: fence made of stones and mesh

• Dolomite. The material is flat stones of yellowish, white, gray or brown color. Dolomite is used both for the construction of pillars and sections, and for finishing.

Photo No. 7: dolomite fence

These varieties are the most popular. In addition to them, when constructing fences and finishing posts and sections, limestone, sandstone, rubble stone and artificial analogues of natural materials are used.

How to make a stone fence

Construction of a stone fence is a complex and long work, requiring knowledge and experience. Even a team of several people will require an enormous amount of time to erect a fence. However, if you still want to do the installation yourself, please read the instructions below.

The construction process is divided into several stages.

1. Marking the territory

This stage involves stretching the rope around the perimeter of the fence. Mark the installation locations of the pillars.

2. Foundation construction

You will find detailed information about the construction of a monolithic strip foundation on our website.

The most suitable base width is 30 cm. In the places where the pillars will be, install metal profile pipes.

3. Preparatory work

While the foundation is hardening, sort the purchased stones by size. This will speed up the process of erecting the fence.

4. Laying stone fences (pillars)

Laying stone fences involves the use of floating formwork. To speed up the construction process, all pillars are erected simultaneously.

Make the required number of collapsible formworks from boards and self-tapping screws (2 pieces for each pillar). Internal dimensions - 30*30 (according to the width of the foundation).

Once the frames are ready, follow the instructions below.

1. Install the formwork.
2. Lay the first layer of stones. They should fit as closely as possible to each other and to the formwork.

Photo No. 8: laying the first row of stones

1. Pour in a thick solution so that it fills all the voids.

Repeat steps 1-3 for all fence posts. After this, secure the second formwork to each support with self-tapping screws and lay the next rows of stones in the same way.

Photo No. 9: laying the second row

After a day, the lower parts of the formwork can be removed and the construction of the next layers can begin.

Note.

1. In the places where the logs are attached, it is necessary to release the metal corners. They need to be welded to the pipes.
2. Immediately after removing the formwork, fill any voids found with mortar. Expand the dried seams with a drill and a wire brush.

Photo No. 9: support at the stage of construction of the 8th row

After all the pillars are formed, take care to protect them from precipitation. Perfect option- metal or plastic caps.

According to rough estimates (if all the pillars are erected at the same time), installing such supports for a stone fence will take 19–20 days.

DIY stone fence. Installation of spans.

Build a stone fence with your own hands different ways. There are three options for performing spans:

1. sections without plinths;
2. stone plinths + sections made of wood, corrugated board or other materials;
3. masonry.

The last two options involve the use of formwork, the height of which is equal to 1/3 of the future height of the plinths or spans.

The stones are laid in layers. Each row should dry for at least a day.

During the filling process, the formwork remains in place. It is moved higher only a day after laying the top layer.