The heating battery return is cold - device, causes, solutions. Features of the functioning of heating systems: pressure difference between supply and return How to adjust return flow in a heating system

Adjusting heating radiators in an apartment allows you to simultaneously solve several problems, the main one of which is to reduce the cost of paying for certain utilities.

This possibility is being realized different ways: mechanically and automatically. However, when changing the heating system parameters, the average room temperature does not increase. You can only reduce it to the desired level by adjusting the position of the fittings. It is advisable to install such devices on batteries in houses where it is cool in winter.

Why do you need to make adjustments?

The main factors explaining the need to change the heating level of batteries using locking mechanisms and electronics:

1. Free movement of hot water through pipes and inside radiators. Air pockets may form in the heating system. For this reason, the coolant stops heating the batteries, as it gradually cools. As a result, the indoor microclimate becomes less comfortable, and over time the room cools down. To maintain heat in the pipes, shut-off mechanisms installed on radiators are used.
2. Adjusting the temperature of the batteries makes it possible to reduce the cost of heating your home. If the rooms are too hot, by changing the position of the valves on the radiators you can reduce costs by 25%. Moreover, reducing the heating temperature of the batteries by 1°C provides savings of 6%.
3. In cases where radiators heat up the air in the apartment very much, you have to open the windows often. It is not advisable to do this in winter, because you can catch a cold. To avoid having to constantly open windows in order to normalize the microclimate in the room, regulators should be installed on the batteries.
4. It becomes possible to change the heating temperature of radiators at your discretion, and individual parameters are set in each room.

How to regulate radiators

To influence the microclimate in the apartment, you need to reduce the volume of coolant passing through the heating device. In this case, it is only possible to reduce the temperature value. The heating system is adjusted by turning the valve/faucet or changing the parameters of the automation unit. The amount of hot water passing through the pipes and sections is reduced, and at the same time the battery heats up less intensely.

To understand how these phenomena are interconnected, you need to learn more about the operating principle of the heating system, in particular radiators: hot water, getting inside the heating device, heats the metal, which, in turn, releases heat into the air. However, the intensity of heating the room depends not only on the volume of hot water in the battery. The type of metal from which the heating device is made also plays an important role.

Cast iron has a significant mass and releases heat slowly. For this reason, it is not advisable to install regulators on such radiators, since the device will take a long time to cool. Aluminum, steel, copper - all these metals instantly heat up and cool down relatively quickly. Work on installing regulators should be done before starting heating season when there is no coolant in the system.

In an apartment building, there is no way to change the average water temperature in the heating system pipes. For this reason, it is better to install regulators that allow you to influence the microclimate in the room in a different way. However, this cannot be realized if the coolant is supplied from top to bottom. In a private house there is access and the ability to change individual equipment parameters and coolant temperature. So, in in this case It is often impractical to mount regulators on batteries.

Valves and taps

Such fittings are a heat exchanger of a shut-off device. This means that the radiator is adjusted by turning the tap/valve in the desired direction. If you turn the fittings 90° all the way, the flow of water into the battery will no longer flow. To change the heating level of the heating device, the locking mechanism is set to the half position. However, not every fitting has this opportunity. Some faucets may leak after a short period of use in this position.

Installing shut-off valves allows you to manually regulate the heating system. The valve is inexpensive. This is the main advantage of such fittings. In addition, it is easy to operate, and changing the microclimate does not require special knowledge. However, there are also disadvantages to locking mechanisms, for example, they are characterized by low level efficiency. The battery cooling rate is slow.

Stopcocks

Applicable ball design. First of all, it is customary to install them on a heating radiator in order to protect housing from coolant leakage. This type of valve has only two positions: open and closed. Its main task is to turn off the battery if such a need arises, for example, if there is a risk of flooding in the apartment. For this reason shut-off valves cut into the pipe in front of the radiator.

If the fittings are in open position, the coolant circulates freely throughout the heating system and inside the battery. Such taps are used if the room is hot. The batteries can be turned off periodically, which will reduce the air temperature in the room.

However, ball locking mechanisms must not be installed in the half position. With prolonged use, the risk of leakage in the area where the ball valve is located increases. This is due to gradual damage to the locking element in the form of a ball, which is located inside the mechanism.

Manual valves

This group includes two types of fittings:

1. Needle valve. Its advantage is the possibility of half installation. Such fittings can be located in any convenient position: completely opens/closes access to the coolant to the radiator, significantly or slightly reduces the volume of water in heating devices. However, there is a drawback to needle valves. Thus, they are characterized by reduced throughput. This means that after installing such fittings, even in a fully open position, the amount of coolant in the pipe at the battery inlet will be significantly reduced.
2. Control valves. They are designed specifically to change the heating temperature of batteries. The advantages include the ability to change position at the user’s discretion. In addition, such fittings are reliable. There is no need to frequently repair the valve if the structural elements are made of durable metal. There is a shut-off cone inside the valve. When you turn the handle in different directions, it rises or falls, which helps to increase/decrease the flow area.

Automatic adjustment

The advantage of this method is that there is no need to constantly change the position of the valve/faucet. Required temperature will be supported automatically. Adjusting the heating in this way makes it possible to set the desired parameters once. In the future, the heating level of the battery will be maintained by an automation unit or other device installed at the input of the heating device.

If necessary, individual parameters can be set multiple times, which is influenced by the personal preferences of the residents. The disadvantages of this method include the significant cost of components. The more functional the devices are for controlling the amount of coolant in heating radiators, the higher their price.

Electronic thermostats

These devices superficially resemble a control valve, but there is a significant difference - a display is built into the design. It displays the room temperature that needs to be obtained. Such devices work in conjunction with remote sensor temperature. It transmits information to the electronic thermostat. To normalize the microclimate in the room, you just need to set the desired temperature value on the device, and the adjustment will be performed automatically. Have electronic thermostats at the battery input.

Adjusting radiators with thermostats

Devices of this type consist of two units: lower (thermal valve) and upper (thermal head). The first of the elements resembles a manual valve. It is made of durable metal. The advantage of such an element is the ability to install not only an automatic, but also a mechanical valve, it all depends on the needs of the user. To change the heating temperature of the battery, the design of the thermostat includes a bellows, which exerts pressure on the spring-loaded mechanism, and the latter, in turn, changes the flow area.

Using Three-Way Valves

Such devices are made in the form of a tee and are intended for installation at the connection point of the bypass, the inlet pipe to the radiator, or the general riser of the heating system. To increase operating efficiency, the three-way valve is equipped with a thermostatic head, the same as that of the previously discussed thermostat. If the valve inlet temperature is higher desired value, the coolant does not enter the battery. Hot water is directed through the bypass and passes further along the heating riser.

When the valve cools down, the passage hole opens again and the coolant flows into the battery. It is advisable to install such a device if the heating system is single-pipe and the pipe distribution is vertical.

To be able to regulate the temperature of the battery in the apartment, consider any type of valve: they can be straight or angular. The installation principle of such a device is simple; the main thing is to correctly determine its position. Thus, the direction of coolant flow is indicated on the valve body. It must correspond to the direction of water movement inside the battery.

Place valves/thermostats at the inlet of the heating device; if necessary, install a tap at the outlet as well. This is done so that in the future it will be possible to independently drain the coolant. Regulating devices are installed on heating radiators, provided that the user knows exactly which pipe is the supply pipe, since a tap is made into it. In this case, the direction of movement of hot water in the riser is taken into account: from top to bottom or from bottom to top.

Increased reliability compression fittings, so they are used more often. The connection to the pipes is threaded. Thermostats can be equipped with a union nut. For sealing threaded connection use FUM tape, flax.

Indoor comfort during the cold period largely depends on a correctly designed building heating system, in particular, on the choice of the organization of the coolant supply and its outlet (return) in the heating system.

First of all, it should be noted that today there are two types of heating for homes:

• autonomous (independent) when thermal energy sources are located in a building or its immediate vicinity. This type is mainly used for individual construction projects or multi-storey buildings modern layout;
• centralized (dependent), in which several objects connected by a network of pipelines are connected to the heating device (or their complex). This system is typical for most urban residential areas, as well as villages with developed infrastructure.

At the same time, according to the principle of circulation of the coolant, which is most often used as water, there are gravitational(with natural circulation) and pumping(with forced circulation) heating systems, and according to the method of its distribution - with top or bottom piping layout.

Despite the diversity possible options providing buildings with heat, the number of ways to organize the supply and removal (return) of coolant is limited.

Methods for organizing the supply and removal of coolant to heating radiators

• lower;
• lateral;
• diagonal.

Bottom connection

In the literature you can find other names for this method: saddle, sickle, “Leningradka”. According to this scheme, both the coolant supply and return are provided at the bottom of the radiators. It is advisable to use it if the heating pipes are located under the floor surface or under the baseboard.

Legend:
1 – Mayevsky crane
2 – Heating radiators
3 – Heat flow direction
4 – Plug

It must be remembered that with a small number of sections or small size radiators, the bottom connection is the least efficient in terms of heat transfer (heat loss can be 15%) than other existing schemes.

Side connection

This is the most common type of connecting radiators to a heating system. When using such a scheme, the coolant is supplied to the upper part, and the return is organized from the same side from the bottom.

It should be borne in mind that as the number of sections increases, the efficiency of such a connection decreases. To correct the situation, it is recommended to use a fluid flow extension (injection tube).

Diagonal connection

This scheme is also called lateral cross, since the coolant is supplied to the radiator from above, while the return is organized from below, but from the opposite side. It is advisable to provide such a connection when using radiators with a large number of sections (14 or more).

You need to know that when changing the location of the supply and return, the heat transfer efficiency is halved.

The choice of one or another option for connecting radiators will largely depend on the provided pipe layout (method of organizing return flow) in the heating system.

Methods for organizing return flow

Today, heating systems can be organized according to one of the types of pipe layout:

• single-pipe;
• two-pipe;
• hybrid.

The choice of one method or another will depend on a number of factors such as: number of floors of the building, requirements for the cost of the heating system, type of coolant circulation, radiator parameters, etc.

The most common is single-pipe scheme pipe routing. In most cases, it is used to heat multi-story buildings. Such a system is characterized by:

• low cost;
• ease of installation;
• vertical system with top coolant supply;
• serial connection of heating radiators, and, therefore, the absence of a separate riser for return, i.e. After passing through the first radiator, the coolant enters the second, then the third, etc.;
• inability to regulate the intensity and uniformity of heating of radiators;
• high coolant pressure in the system;
• decrease in heat transfer as you move away from the boiler or expansion tank.

It should be noted that to increase the efficiency of single-pipe systems, it is possible to provide for the use of circular deposits or the installation of bypasses on each floor.

« Bypass- (English bypass, lit. - bypass) - a bypass parallel to a straight section of the pipeline, with a shut-off or control pipeline fittings or devices (for example, liquid or gas meters). Serves to control the technological process in the event of a malfunction of fittings or devices installed on a direct pipeline, as well as if they need to be urgently replaced due to a malfunction without stopping the technological process.” (Big Encyclopedic Polytechnic Dictionary)

Another option for pipe routing is two-pipe scheme , also called heating system with return. This type is most often used for individual construction projects or luxury housing.

This system consists of two closed circuits, one of which is designed to supply coolant to heating radiators connected in parallel, the second to remove it.
Main advantages two-pipe scheme are:

• uniform heating of all devices, regardless of their distance from the heat source;
• the ability to regulate the heating intensity or repair (replace) each of the radiators without affecting the operation of others.

TO shortcomings This can be attributed to a rather complex connection diagram and labor-intensive installation.

It must be taken into account that if such a system does not provide for the use of a circular pump, slopes should be observed during installation (for supply from the boiler, for return to the boiler).

The third type of pipe layout is considered hybrid , combining the characteristics of the systems described above. An example is a collector circuit, in which an individual wiring branch is organized from the common coolant supply riser at each level.

Return coolant heating

Obviously, the supply coolant temperature should be slightly higher than the return temperature. But the difference is quite large, which cannot be eliminated long time, leads to a reduction in the service life of boilers.

This is explained by the fact that condensate forms on the walls of the combustion chamber, which enters into a chemical interaction with carbon dioxide and other gases released during fuel combustion, forming an acid. Under its influence, the “water jacket” of the firebox gradually corrodes, and the boiler fails.

To eliminate this phenomenon, it is necessary to either heat the return coolant or provide for the inclusion of a boiler in the heating system.

If the system individual heating calculated correctly, no regulators are needed: a stable temperature will be maintained in each room. But here in multi-storey buildings After a total heating overhaul, regulators can become very useful.

It is necessary to regulate the heat transfer of heating radiators for several reasons. First: it allows you to save on heating costs. In apartments in multi-storey buildings, payment bills will be reduced only if a common building heat meter is installed. In private homes, if you have an automated boiler that itself maintains a stable temperature, you are unlikely to need regulators for radiators. Unless you have old equipment. Then the savings will be quite significant.

The second reason why regulators are installed on heating radiators is the ability to maintain the temperature regime in the room you want. You need +17 o C in one room, and +26 o C in the other, set the corresponding values ​​​​on the thermal head or closed the valve, and you have warm air, as much as you want. It doesn’t matter whether you have radiators in your apartment, whether the coolant is supplied centrally, or whether the heating is individual. And it doesn’t matter at all what type of boiler is in the system. Radiator regulators are not connected in any way to boilers. They work on their own

How to regulate radiators

To understand how temperature regulation occurs, let’s remember how a heating radiator works. It is a labyrinth of pipes with different types ribs to increase heat transfer. Hot water enters the radiator inlet, passing through the labyrinth, it heats the metal. This, in turn, heats the air around it. Due to the fact that modern radiators have fins special form, improving air movement (convection), hot air spreads very quickly. During active heating, there is a noticeable flow of heat from the radiators.

This battery is very hot. In this case, the regulator needs to be installed

From all this it follows that by changing the amount of coolant passing through the battery, you can change the temperature in the room (within certain limits). This is what the corresponding fittings do - control valves and thermostats.

Let's say right away that no regulators can increase heat transfer. They only lower it. If the room is hot, install it; if it’s cold, this is not your option.

How effectively the temperature of the batteries changes depends, firstly, on how the system is designed, whether there is a reserve power of the heating devices, and secondly, on how correctly the regulators themselves are selected and installed. The inertia of the system as a whole, and the heating devices themselves, plays a significant role. For example, aluminum heats up and cools down quickly, while cast iron, which has a large mass, changes temperature very slowly. So there is no point in changing anything with cast iron: it takes too long to wait for the result.

Options for connecting and installing control valves. But to be able to repair the radiator without stopping the system, you need to install a ball valve before the regulator (click on the picture to enlarge its size)

How to increase the heat dissipation of batteries

Whether it is possible to increase the heat transfer of a radiator depends on how it was calculated and whether there is a power reserve. If the radiator simply cannot produce more heat, then any means of adjustment will not help. But you can try to change the situation in one of the following ways:

Main disadvantage regulated systems is that they need a certain power reserve of all devices. And these are additional funds: each section costs money. But I don’t mind paying for comfort. If your room is hot, life is not a joy, just like if it is cold. And control valves are a universal way out of the situation.

There are many devices that can change the amount of coolant flowing through a heating device (radiator, register). There are very inexpensive options, and there are decent ones. Available with manual, automatic or electronic adjustment. Let's start with the cheapest ones.

Valves or taps

These are the most cost-effective, but, unfortunately, the most ineffective radiator adjustment devices.

Ball Valves

Often at the entrance to the battery they place Ball Valves and with their help regulate the flow of coolant. But this equipment has a different purpose: it is a shut-off valve. They are needed in the system, but to completely shut off the coolant flow. In the event, for example, if the heating device leaks. Then the ball valves located at the inlet and outlet of the heating radiator will allow it to be repaired or replaced without stopping the system and draining the coolant.

Ball valves are not intended for adjustment. They have only two operating states: completely “closed” and completely “open”. All intermediate positions cause harm.

Ball valves are shut-off valves and are not suitable for radiator adjustment

What harm? Inside this faucet there is a ball with a hole (hence the name - ball). In standard positions (open or closed), he is in no danger. But in other cases, the solid particles contained in the coolant (especially there are a lot of them in centralized heating systems) gradually grind down and break off pieces. As a result, the tap becomes leaky. Then, even if it is in the “closed” position, the coolant continues to flow into the radiator. And it’s good if an accident doesn’t happen at this time and you don’t need to turn off the water. But if this suddenly happens, repairs cannot be avoided. At a minimum, you will have to change flooring, and what will need to be repaired in the lower room depends on how quickly the workers close the riser utilities(or you, if you have own house). Yes, a ball valve can work in abnormal mode for some time, but it still breaks. And sooner rather than later.

For those who still decide to adjust the radiator in this way, it is worth keeping in mind that they also need to be installed correctly, otherwise “pleasant” conversations with the management company cannot be avoided. Since this method is most often used in apartment buildings, then we’ll tell you how to connect them with vertical wiring. Most often, the wiring is single-pipe vertical. This is when a pipe enters the room through the ceiling. A radiator is connected to it. The pipe leaves the second radiator inlet and goes through the floor to the lower room.

This is where you need to install the taps correctly: the mandatory installation of a bypass - a bypass pipe. It is needed so that when the flow to the radiators in the apartment is closed (the tap is closed completely or partially), water circulates in the general house system.

Sometimes the ball valve is placed on the bypass. By changing the amount of coolant passing through it, you can also change the heat transfer of the heating battery. In this case, for greater reliability of the system and the ability to turn off the taps, there should be three: two cut-off taps on the radiators, which will operate in normal modes, and a third one, which will be regulating. But there is one pitfall here: sometimes you can forget what position the taps are in, or the children will play. Result: the entire riser is blocked, cold in the apartments, unpleasant conversations with neighbors and the manager.

So It is better not to use ball valves for adjusting radiators. There are other devices designed specifically to change the amount of coolant flowing through the battery.

Needle valve

This device is usually installed in the heating system in front of the pressure gauge. In other places it does more harm than good. It's all about the structure. The device itself effectively and smoothly changes the flow of coolant, gradually blocking it.

But the thing is that due to the design features, The width of the passage for the coolant in them is half as large. For example, you have installed inch pipes, and they have a needle tap of the same size. But its capacity is half as much: the saddle is only ½ inch. That is, each needle valve installed in the system reduces the throughput of the system. Several devices installed in series, for example, in a one-pipe system, will lead to the fact that the last heating devices either will not heat up at all, or will be barely warm. Therefore, the often recommended single-pipe circuit with needle valves in practice leads to the fact that most radiators either do not heat at all or heat very weakly.

• removing the needle valve;
• doubling the number of sections,
• by installing a device that has twice as large couplings (on inch pipes you will need to install a two-inch valve, which is unlikely to suit anyone).

Radiator control valves

Especially for manual adjustment of radiators intended radiator valves (taps). They come with corner or direct connection. The working principle of this manual temperature controller is as follows. By turning the valve, you lower or raise the shut-off cone. IN closed position the cone completely blocks the flow. Moving up/down, it blocks the coolant flow to a greater or lesser extent. Because of this principle of operation, these devices are also called “mechanical temperature controllers”. It is installed on radiators with threads and connected to pipes using fittings, usually crimp fittings, but there are different types compatible with different types pipes

What is good about a radiator control valve? It is reliable, it is not afraid of blockages and small abrasive particles that are in the coolant. This concerns quality products, the valve cone of which is made of metal and carefully processed. Their prices are not very high, which is important for a large heating system. What's the disadvantage? Each time you have to change the position manually, which makes maintaining a stable temperature problematic. Some people are happy with this, others are not. For those who want a constant or strictly set temperature, they are more suitable

Automatic adjustment

Automatic maintenance of room temperature is good because once you set the control knob to the desired position, you will get rid of the need to twist and change something for a long time. The temperature of the heating radiators is adjusted constantly and continuously. The disadvantage of such systems is their significant cost, and the more functionality, the more expensive the device will be. There are some other features and subtleties, but more on them below.

Adjusting radiators with thermostats

For maintaining a constant set temperature in the room (premises) use thermostats or thermostats for heating radiators. Sometimes this device may be called a “thermostatic valve”, “thermostatic valve”, etc. There are many names, but one device is meant. To make it clearer, it is necessary to explain that the thermal valve and thermal valve are the lower part of the device, and the thermal head and thermoelement are the upper part. And the entire device is a radiator thermostat or thermostat.

Most of these devices do not require any power source. The exception is models with a digital screen: batteries are inserted into the thermostatic head. But their replacement period is quite long, the current consumption is low.

Structurally, the radiator thermostat consists of two parts:

• thermostatic valve (sometimes called “housing”, “thermal valve”, “thermal valve”);
• thermostatic head (also called “thermostatic element”, “thermoelement”, “thermal head”).

The valve itself (body) is made of metal, usually brass or bronze. Its design is similar to that of a manual valve. Most firms bottom part radiator thermostat is made unified. That is, heads of any type and any manufacturer can be installed on one body. Let us clarify: on one thermal valve you can install a manual, mechanical, and automatic type. It is very comfortable. If you want to change the adjustment method, you do not need to buy the entire device. They installed another thermostatic element and that was it.

In automatic regulators, the principle of influencing the shut-off valve is different. In a manual regulator, its position is changed by turning the handle; in automatic models there is usually a bellows that presses on the spring-loaded mechanism. In electronic devices, everything is controlled by the processor.

The bellows is the main part of the thermal head (thermoelement). It is a small sealed cylinder containing liquid or gas. Both liquid and gas have one general property: their volume is highly dependent on temperature. When heated, they significantly increase their volume, stretching the bellows cylinder. It puts pressure on the spring, blocking the flow of coolant more strongly. As it cools, the volume of gas/liquid decreases, the spring rises, the coolant flow increases, and heating occurs again. This mechanism, depending on the calibration, allows you to maintain the set temperature with an accuracy of 1 o C.

Watch the video to see how the thermostat works.

The radiator thermostat can be:

• with manual temperature control;
• with automatic;
  • with built-in temperature sensor;
  • with remote (wired).

There are also special models for one-pipe and two-pipe systems, housings made of different metals.

Using Three-Way Valves

A three-way valve is rarely used to regulate battery temperature. He has a slightly different task. But in principle, it is possible.

A three-way valve is installed at the junction of the bypass and the supply pipe going to the radiator. To stabilize the temperature of the coolant, it must be equipped with a thermostatic head (of the type described above). If the temperature near the head of the three-way valve rises above the set value, the flow of coolant to the radiator is blocked. It all rushes through the bypass. After cooling, the valve operates in the opposite direction and the radiator heats up again. This connection method is implemented for, and more often with vertical wiring.

Results

Adjusting heating radiators is possible using different devices, but this must be done correctly using special control valves. These are manual regulators (taps) and automated ones - thermostats; in some versions it is possible to use a three-way valve with a thermal head.

In what case should I use what? In multi-storey apartments with centralized heating a three-way valve is preferable and control valves. And all because the gap in thermostats for the coolant is not very wide, and if there are foreign particles in the coolant, it quickly becomes clogged. Therefore, they are recommended for use in individual heating systems.

If you really want automatic radiator control in your apartment, you can install a filter before the thermostat. It will retain most of the impurities, but you will have to wash it regularly. When you feel that the radiator has become too cold, check the filter.

In private houses, with battery regulation, everything is simple: what suits you best, then install it.

From efficient work heating system depends on how comfortable the temperature in the house will be during the cold season. Sometimes situations arise when hot water is supplied to the system, but the batteries remain cold. It is important to find the cause and eliminate it. To solve the problem, you need to know the structure of the heating system and the causes of cold return when hot served.

Heating system design - what is return?

The heating system consists of an expansion tank, batteries, and a heating boiler. All components are connected to each other in a circuit. A coolant liquid is poured into the system. The liquid used is water or antifreeze. If the installation is done correctly, the liquid is heated in the boiler and begins to rise through the pipes. When heated, the liquid increases in volume, the excess enters the expansion tank.

Since the heating system is completely filled with liquid, the hot coolant displaces the cold coolant, which returns to the boiler, where it is heated. Gradually, the temperature of the coolant increases to the required temperature, heating the radiators. Liquid circulation can be natural, called gravitational, or forced, using a pump.

The return is a coolant that, having passed through all the heating devices included in the circuit, gives up its heat and, cooled, enters the boiler again for the next heating.

Batteries can be connected in three ways:

1. 1. Bottom connection.
2. 2. Diagonal connection.
3. 3. Lateral connection.

In the first method, the coolant is supplied and the return is discharged at the bottom of the battery. This method is advisable to use when the pipeline is located under the floor or baseboards. With a diagonal connection, the coolant is supplied from above, the return is discharged from the opposite side from below. This connection is best used for batteries with a large number of sections. The most popular method is side connection. The hot liquid is connected from above, the return is discharged from the bottom of the radiator on the same side where the coolant is supplied.

Heating systems differ in the way pipes are laid. They can be laid in one-pipe or two-pipe ways. The most popular is the single-pipe wiring diagram. Most often it is installed in multi-storey buildings. It has the following advantages:

• a small number of pipes;
• low cost;
• ease of installation;
• serial connection of radiators does not require the organization of a separate riser for liquid drainage.

Disadvantages include the inability to adjust the intensity and heating for a separate radiator, and a decrease in the temperature of the coolant as it moves away from the heating boiler. To increase the efficiency of single-pipe distribution, circular pumps are installed.

To organize individual heating, a two-pipe pipe layout is used. Hot feed is carried out through one pipe. In the second, cooled water or antifreeze flows back into the boiler. This scheme makes it possible to connect radiators in parallel, ensuring uniform heating of all devices. In addition, the two-pipe circuit allows you to regulate the heating temperature of each heating device separately. The disadvantage is the complexity of installation and high consumption materials.

Why is the riser hot and the batteries cold?

Sometimes, with a hot supply, the return of the heating battery still remains cold. There are several main reasons for this:

• installation was performed incorrectly;
• the system or one of the risers of a separate radiator is airborne;
• insufficient fluid flow;
• the cross-section of the pipe through which the coolant is supplied has decreased;
• The heating circuit is dirty.

Cold return is a serious problem that must be eliminated. It entails many unpleasant consequences: the room temperature does not reach the desired level, the efficiency of radiators decreases, there is no way to correct the situation additional devices. As a result, the heating system does not work as it should.

The main trouble with cold return is the large temperature difference that occurs between the supply and return temperatures. In this case, condensation appears on the walls of the boiler, reacting with carbon dioxide, which is released during fuel combustion. As a result, acid is formed, which corrodes the walls of the boiler and shortens its service life.

How to make radiators hot - looking for solutions

If you find that the return is too cold, you should take a number of steps to find the causes and troubleshoot problems. First of all, you need to check that the connection is correct. If the connection is not made correctly, the down pipe will be hot when it should be slightly warm. The pipes should be connected according to the diagram.

So that it doesn't happen air jams that impede the flow of coolant, it is necessary to provide for the installation of a Mayevsky valve or vent for air removal. Before bleeding the air, you need to turn off the supply, open the tap and let out the air. Then the tap is turned off and the heating valves open.

Often the cause of cold return is the control valve: the cross-section is narrowed. In this case, the tap must be dismantled and the cross-section increased using a special tool. But it is better to buy a new faucet and replace it.

The reason may be clogged pipes. You need to check them for passability, remove dirt and deposits, and clean them well. If passability cannot be restored, the clogged areas should be replaced with new ones.

If the coolant flow rate is insufficient, you need to check whether there is a circulation pump and whether it meets the power requirements. If it is missing, it is advisable to install it, and if there is a lack of power, replace or upgrade it.

Knowing the reasons why heating may not work efficiently, you can independently identify and eliminate malfunctions. Comfort in the house during the cold season depends on the quality of heating. If you carry out the installation and inspection of the heating system yourself, you can save on hiring third-party labor.

Law of Hydraulics: Any flowing fluid chooses the path of least resistance. In the heating network of a private house, the rule works like this: the coolant pushed by the pump tends to pass through the first radiator or the shortest circuit of heated floors. As a result, remote rooms of the building warm up much less well. For uniform distribution of flows, hydraulic balancing of the heating system is necessary. We'll tell you how to adjust radiators and underfloor heating hinges with your own hands.

When to balance the system

Theoretically, adjustment of heating radiators is necessary in any case. Design engineer designing and calculating water system, sets the coolant flow rate for each radiator and underfloor heating circuit. After installation, filling and crimping pipeline network the contractor is obliged to adjust the heat supply, focusing on the design parameters in the project.

Important point. Calculation of the heat demand and the corresponding consumption of heated water is done for the most unfavorable conditions - the minimum street temperature. Therefore, at the beginning of the settings, all radiator and other control valves are fully opened, and the boiler is brought to maximum operating mode.

Since the average homeowner only cares about warmth and comfort inside the home, it is recommended to take on the balancing yourself in the following cases:

1. The radiators closest to the boiler heat up noticeably more than the radiators further away, respectively, the rooms are hot or cool (the temperature difference is too large).
2. One of the radiators makes a distinct noise - the murmur of flowing water.
3. Pipes embedded in the screed heat the floors unevenly.
4. In the process of setting up a new heating circuit, assembled with your own hands.

If, with properly installed heating, the temperature in the distant rooms is significantly lower, the system needs to be balanced

Note. It is assumed that the fittings, equipment and heating devices are selected correctly, the system is filled with coolant, and there are no other defects. Otherwise, it is pointless to engage in hydraulic balancing - you will get zero results.

When you should not regulate the distribution of coolant to batteries:

1. If the radiator network and heated floors work flawlessly. It’s not worth turning the valves over and over again - due to inexperience, you can make things worse.
2. When various problems are detected - air in the batteries, leakage, clogged radiator or balancing valves, rupture of the expansion tank membrane, etc. First, fix the problem and check the heating is working properly. No adjustment may be needed.
3. It is strictly not recommended to interfere with work central heating apartment building, install additional taps and valves into common risers. The exception is multi-storey new buildings with individual thermal inputs to each apartment.

Water flow is regulated exclusively by balance valves, ball valves are 100% open

Tools and devices for balancing

To independently adjust the heating radiators and heated floors of a private house, you will need a minimum of equipment:

• electronic contact thermometer;
• screwdriver;
• thumb or wrench to rotate the rod balancing valve(a hexagon is usually used);
• sheet of paper, pencil.

Reference. Professional plumbers often use a thermal imager, which gives a clear picture of the heating of all heating devices. The device is expensive, so we’ll make do with simpler means.

To measure temperature, it is better to use an electronic contact-type device.

Instead of the specified thermometer, it is allowed to use a remote (non-contact) pyrometer. Please note: the device measures the temperature of shiny surfaces with a small error. This note applies to radiators with new paintwork.

If you do not have a wiring diagram for a residential building, you should sketch it on paper before starting work. The sketch will help you understand the order in which the batteries are connected to the mains and the distance from the furnace room. Also flush the mud trap at the entrance to the boiler and heat the system to a temperature of 70-80 °C, regardless of the street weather.

A great help in setting up is a modern circulation Grundfos pump Alpha 3, which is through mobile app accurately shows the depth of adjustments. The downside is the decent price of the unit (starts at 240 USD).

Radiator network adjustment

The balancing method practiced by our expert is equally suitable for closed one-pipe and two-pipe heating systems country cottages. Manifold wiring and heated floors are regulated in a different way, which we will discuss in the next section.

The essence of the technique is to measure the surface temperature of all radiators and eliminate the difference by limiting the coolant flow. How to adjust radiators using a thermometer:

1. Warm up the coolant to 70-80 °C, open everything completely. If the boiler does not show the actual supply water temperature, determine it yourself by placing a meter on the metal outlet pipe.

   Initially, the valve preset ring is adjusted to maximum flow

2. Measure the surface temperature of the first radiator supply in two places - near the supply and return connections. If the difference is within 10 degrees, the battery warms up normally.
3. Repeat the operation on all heating devices, recording the readings. Move along each heating branch, one by one recording the temperature of the batteries up to the last one.
4. If the temperature difference between the supply of the first and last radiator does not exceed 2 °C, close the valves of the first two batteries by 0.5-1 turns and repeat the measurements.

   The measurement is taken at the supply and return pipes, the maximum permissible difference is 10 degrees

5. When the difference reaches 3-7 degrees, the control valves of the first heaters close by 50-70% (calculated by valve rotations), the middle ones - by 30-40%, the last devices remain completely open.
6. Wait 20-30 minutes to allow the batteries to warm up after the new settings, then repeat the measurements. The goal is to achieve a normal difference of 2 °C (3 degrees is allowed for long highways) between the last and first device.
7. Repeat the adjustment procedure, turning the balance valves a quarter or half a turn, until you achieve the same heating of all batteries. “Listen” to each radiator for noise indicating increased coolant consumption.

Important point. Don’t get carried away by excessively tightening the taps; you won’t get any savings this way. Compare the temperature at the inlet and outlet of the heater - if the difference exceeds 10 °C, the valve must be released. Due to too little coolant flow, the room will become cold.

Approximate adjustment of the batteries of a closed two-pipe system is shown using the example of a heating circuit two-story house. Why is it approximate: the number of batteries to be closed and the number of turns of the tap are purely individual for each wiring; it is necessary to understand it locally. If you doubt the correctness of your actions, press down the coolant gradually, making half a turn of the valve and repeating the measurements.

As a rule, a single-pipe “Leningrad” of 3-4 batteries does not need balancing; it is enough to lightly “press” the first radiator. In the associated wiring (), you need to limit the first and last device. An expert will show you the adjustment procedure more clearly in the video:

Warm floors and radiant wiring

Since the underfloor heating circuits and radiator radiators are connected to a common one, balancing is done directly on the collector. The setting method depends on the availability of rotameters - transparent flow meter flasks installed on the supply or return lines.

To correctly configure the coolant supply using rotameters, you should calculate the water flow through each loop using the formula:

• G – mass flow rate of heated water flowing through the circuit, kg/h;
• Q – the amount of heat that the circuit or radiator should release into the room, W;
• Δt – temperature difference at the inlet and outlet of the loop, the calculated value is taken to be 10 °C.

The power of one floor circuit Q is determined based on the heat demand of a separate room. The parameter is calculated according to the specific ratio of 100 W/m² of room area or according to the heating method. The flowmeter scales are marked in l/min, which means the result must be divided by 60.

Calculation example. Heating a room with an area of ​​10 square meters requires 1 kW of heat. Coolant consumption will be 0.86 x 1000 / 10 = 86 kg/h or 86 / 60 ≈ 1.43 l/min.

Clarification. If the room is large and has separate water loops, we also divide the calculated flow rate in half.

Here the rotameters are installed on the supply line of the comb, but can also be installed on the return line

Further balancing of the underfloor heating loops is carried out according to the instructions:

Reference. On the collectors different manufacturers flow meters are installed on the supply or return manifold (they are also structurally different). To adjust the maximum flow, the location of the rotameters does not matter.

Beam batteries are balanced in a similar way. To be sure, you can combine 2 options - according to the calculated flow rate and the temperature of the radiator surface (the method is described in the previous section).

Scheme of flow control with a rotameter. The flow rate through each circuit is shown by control washers in transparent flasks, the unit of measurement is liters per minute

If, in order to save money, you managed to buy a collector without rotameters, the setup will take several days. The goal is to achieve the same temperature in the return pipelines of all loops. That is, the initial installation is made approximately according to the power and length of the circuit, then the return temperature is measured and the flow rate is adjusted.

To check the balancing of the heated floor, you need to start the heating boiler. Negative point: after adjusting the flow rate, you will have to wait several hours until the thickness of the concrete warms up and the temperature of the return lines stabilizes.

Conclusion

A radiator heating network with short branches can be balanced without any problems. If the length of the arms of a two-pipe wiring varies greatly, the task becomes somewhat more complicated. But don’t worry - a difference of 3 degrees between the last and first radiator is considered normal in this case. Please note one nuance: heating balancing is carried out at maximum heating of the system; in operating mode, the water temperature will drop to 50...60 °C, the difference of 3 °C will also decrease.