DIY vinyl siding installation: detailed instructions. How to attach siding - step-by-step recommendations Correct installation of siding

Improve appearance home or any other extension can be done by installing siding; moreover, it perfectly protects the walls from precipitation and wind blowing. This facade material is also used for cladding industrial buildings.

Siding is a practical and popular facing building material. It is produced in the form of panels from 3 to 4 meters long, each of which has a latch lock and an edge with holes for fasteners. Siding has good performance characteristics and aesthetic appearance. From positive qualities you can note:

• makes the appearance of the building more beautiful and neat;
• Thanks to a large selection of panels, you can give your home an individual style;
• High-quality siding has a service life of more than 30 years;
• installation can be done independently;
• is a safe material;
• When dirty, it can be easily cleaned with water and detergent.

Low-quality and cheap siding fades under the influence of the sun after 2 years, since a small amount of titanium dioxide is added to it during production.

Finishing panels are available in a variety of textures and come in a wide range of colors. Siding is produced in several types:

1. Metal;
2. Vinyl;
3. Basement (fiber cement);
4. Acrylic;
5. Wood.

Let's take a closer look at each type:

• Vinyl siding is made from polyvinyl chloride and in appearance can copy finishing materials made of stone, wood and brick. The panels are lightweight and resistant to mold and rot. The material is non-toxic and not damaged by pests. Vinyl products do not conduct electricity and are low cost, but are not resistant to mechanical stress.

• Acrylic siding is a new finishing material, and its technical characteristics are almost similar to vinyl. At the same time, it is very durable and has a more resistant coating to ultraviolet rays. The panels have a long service life and do not deform from high temperatures. It is also resistant to aggressive substances and is not flammable. Acrylic siding has one drawback - high cost.

• Metal siding comes in steel, aluminum and galvanized varieties. This material is strong, durable and environmentally friendly. The panels do not change their original shape due to temperature changes and are resistant to oil and chemical substances. Mold cannot grow on its surface and pests do not eat it. Metal siding has several disadvantages. When the protective coating peels off, rust forms on the panel. It makes a lot of noise when it rains. Metal siding is more expensive than vinyl siding.

• Wooden siding or facade lining is the most environmentally friendly material and has excellent thermal insulation properties. Made from coniferous and larch wood. To prevent the panels from darkening or cracking, apply protective covering. The price of the material depends on the type and type of wood.

• Fiber cement panels are made from high quality cement, cellulose fibers and sand. The outer side of the slab has a special coating that protects it from moisture and sunlight. The material is non-flammable, and it does not rot or grow mold. Fiber cement siding is resistant to mechanical damage and deformations. Does not contain harmful substances and is environmentally friendly. Service life is 25-50 years, depending on the manufacturer and external conditions.

Installation of sheathing with waterproofing and insulation

Before installing the siding, you need to make a reliable frame. The sheathing can be made of wooden beams or metal profiles. It is fixed to the walls with brackets. The sheathing posts are attached opposite to the direction of the siding, that is, if the panels are mounted horizontally, then the sheathing is made vertically, and vice versa. The distance between the elements in the structure depends on the weight of the siding - the heavier the material, the more often the racks are attached.

Step-by-step instructions for making the sheathing:

1. The surface of the walls is prepared, gutters and all protruding parts are removed.
2. If necessary, the walls are primed, wooden surfaces treated with an antiseptic.
3. Using a level and plumb line, places for attaching hangers are outlined. They are placed every 40 cm, 15 cm from the edges of the walls, 10 cm from the inner corner.
4. Drill holes, insert dowels and install U-shaped brackets.
5. The beams are fastened along the edges of the wall, and a rope is stretched between them.
6. The remaining vertical beams are mounted.
7. Horizontal metal profiles are installed in increments of 40 cm.
8. Above the base, at the top and bottom of windows and doors, horizontal sheathing elements are secured using a crab connector.
9. Placed between the posts and under the sheathing mineral insulation, in places of joining it is overlapped. It is attached to the wall with umbrella dowels.
10. The mineral wool and sheathing are covered with wind and vapor barrier insulation. The edges of the film are laid on top of each other and taped with construction tape. It is secured to the sheathing with double-sided tape and counter-battens.

You can insulate the walls immediately after installing the U-shaped brackets. The thermal insulation material is put on the hangers and secured with umbrella dowels, after which it is covered with waterproofing, and the sheathing is installed for installing the siding.

For regions with warm climates, thermal insulation is not provided, but for cold zones, the thickness of the insulation should be at least 15 cm.

Installation of the starting bar

Before installing the starting strip, flashings are installed. They are secured with self-tapping screws with a distance between them of 40 cm. When joining, the ebbs are placed on top of each other. The overlap width is at least 2.5 cm. A building level is used to indicate an even angle.

The starting or starting bar refers to the load-bearing elements. Installed from the top edge of the ebb or at the very bottom of the wall. The first sheet of siding is installed on it. The initial plank is attached, checking the level, since the evenness of the entire wall cladding depends on its installation.

Installation of the starting strip:

• from the lower border of the future cladding they retreat upward by 4 cm;
• using a level, make marks on all vertical racks sheathing or make marks on the wall if there is no frame;
• the initial strip is installed with the upper edge to the marks;
• secured with self-tapping screws in the middle of the factory holes;
• the starting strips are attached so that the distance between them is 0.5 cm (this gap is necessary for thermal expansion);
• the same distance should be from the edges corner elements or the width of the corner profile plus 12 cm.

Why do you need a J-profile?

• J-profile is a universal, load-bearing element of siding trim. It can be regular, arched (flexible) and wide.
• A regular J-profile is needed to complete a facing row at the end of a wall, to cover the edge of a cornice, or to replace a finishing panel.
• Wide is usually used to design door and window openings.
• Arched is used along the edge of an arch-shaped opening. There are notches on the panel where cuts are made at the required distance, so that it can be bent at the desired angle.
• J-profiles are fixed to the walls with nails or self-tapping screws.

How to attach siding

The siding is attached to the façade of the building or to the sheathing. Fastening methods depend on the type of facing material:

• Vinyl panels must be secured only to the factory holes.
• For wood cladding It is recommended to use galvanized fastening fittings.
• Fastening the elements should be done evenly and directly, in the center of the factory hole.
• When securing the siding together, press it from the bottom up so that the top panel snaps into the lock of the bottom one.
• When installing the planks, you need to leave a gap of 2 mm between them and the sheathing to allow expansion of the cladding during temperature changes.

Installation of internal and external corner strips

Corner panels are load-bearing elements. Attached after the starting profile. Designed to cover and secure the edges of siding, and also serve as guides.

Installation of corner strips:

• install the panel so that its lower part protrudes above the starting bar by 0.5-0.7 mm, and the upper edge does not reach the cornice by 5-7 mm;
• begin to secure the profile from top to bottom;
• the first self-tapping screw is screwed into the upper part of the factory hole, the rest fasteners placed in the middle of the holes;
• the distance between the screws is 20 cm;
• to lengthen the corners, the holes for fastenings are cut off at the top profile to a length of 34 mm so that the planks overlap each other by 25 mm, and the remaining 9 mm are left for a gap;
• if the starting strips are located close to the corner, then the edges of the nail fasteners at the corner profile are trimmed to the height of the starting strip;
• internal and external corner strips are installed using a plumb line and level.

How to extend siding strips

When the siding is shorter than the length of the sheathed wall, a connecting strip is installed to extend the panels horizontally. The connecting profile covers the joints of the siding, which makes it more durable and protects it from precipitation getting under the cladding. In addition, this way the appearance of the facade will look more beautiful and look like one whole.

Siding panels can also be lengthened using the “overlapping” method. The profile sheets should be arranged in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding butt joints at the same level in a row. The length of overlap of one panel on another must be at least 5 cm, with the obligatory coincidence of the factory holes for fasteners.

Installation of H-profile

H-profile refers to additional load-bearing elements. Used to connect two horizontal cladding panels if the length of the wall is greater than the size of the cladding material. It is also used when connecting soffit (eaves) siding.

Fastening the connecting strip begins from the top of the wall. The first fastener is made at the top of the hole, subsequent screws are screwed in the middle of the holes. The H-profile should retreat 0.5 cm from the cornice and be 6 mm below the starting strip. On both sides, the connecting profile has a 0.6 cm indentation from the starting panels, that is, it is located between them.

During installation, the siding is not inserted into the H-profile all the way, but so that there is a gap of 5-6 mm for thermal expansion.

Installation of ordinary siding panels

For smooth and neat finishing of the facade of the building, it is necessary to use a level, the length of which must be at least 80 cm.

The first siding panel with its end side is inserted into the corner strip, and bottom part they are brought into the initial lock-bend and snapped into place. After which, if necessary, it is pulled up to level the horizontality of the row. Tightening the fasteners on the panel is done from the center to the edges. It is necessary to leave 5 mm between adjacent planks for thermal expansion.

The fasteners must not be screwed in completely. A gap of 1-2 mm is left from the screw head to the panel. Do not pull the profile upwards after the locking connection on the starting bar has clicked into place.

Subsequent rows of panels are installed in a similar way - one side of the siding is placed in the corner groove, and the other in the H-profile or in the opposite corner. The installed panel snaps into the lock of the previous one and is screwed to the sheathing.

The siding facing the façade is installed up to the top of the wall, but so that there is space left for installing the finishing strip and the last profile.

Laying the finishing strip of siding

The finishing line is decorative element, which is used to provide a beautiful and sealed finish to the top edge of the last panel. Install with the side with the factory mounting holes facing down and the panel locking mount facing up.

The procedure for installing the finishing strip:

• the plank is mounted with screws at the very top of the wall, under the cornice;
• the distance from the top of the finishing strip to the installed panels is measured, and 0.3 cm is subtracted from the result obtained; if the width of the profile sheet is greater than the distance, then it is cut off top part;
• in the cut panel (without the top part), holes are made every 10 cm with perforating pliers;
• of the prepared plank, the lower part is inserted into the lock of the previous profile, and the upper part into the locking mount of the finishing panel and snapped into place.

The fasteners are screwed onto the finishing strip through 3-5 holes and in their center.

How to go around windows and doorways with siding

Before covering the siding, the window and door openings are trimmed with special additional elements (platbands). Along the perimeter inside windows (doors) are secured with slats to which the finishing profile is screwed.

At the upper and lower window strips, the edges on the inside are cut by 2 cm and bent in the shape of “tongues”. The upper and lower trim are inserted into the finishing groove, then secured with screws to the sheathing. When installing the side window trims, the “tongues” are inserted inward.

If the width of the siding panel does not fit under the window or above the window (or door), it is shortened by desired depth along the width of the opening. At the cut site, holes are made for fasteners, which should be the same size as the factory ones. Then slide the siding panel under the window element and secure it. A sill is installed at the bottom of the window opening, the upper edge of which is raised along the entire length from the window. The width of the window sill should be 5 cm larger than the opening.

The profile is mounted above the window (door) in the same way. To cover the walls on the side of the openings, the panels are cut to the required length. Then they are brought under the platbands.

When the walls are covered with highly embossed siding, for example, a block house, then the installation of window trims is done after the installation of the panels.

Gable trim

At the final stage, they begin cladding the pediment. If the attic will be used for living space, the gable will be insulated.

First, the roof overhangs and the end part of the roof are prepared. Remove old siding, flashings and wind boards. The roofing material is cut so that it is flush with the front overhangs. The sheathing for the gable siding is done in the same order as for the walls.

Installation of siding on the gable:

• if the wall of the house and the pediment are separated by a cornice, then ebb strips are installed;
• J-straps are fixed along the perimeter of the pediment, or the starting strip is fixed at the bottom, and the finishing strip at the top;
• corners are made from metal profiles and external corner strips are installed;
• since the shape of the pediment has an angular slope, a piece of siding is used as a template to draw cutting lines on it;
• the panels are joined together with an overlap or using an H-bar;
• the top one is a ridge sheet of siding, fixed on top directly through the panel, it is better to drill a hole in advance.

The cornice is finished with a special facing material - soffit. To install the panels, the edges of the cornice are sheathed on the inside with slats. J-bars are attached to them. Soffit siding is quite flexible, so it can be easily installed with a slight downward bend and inserted into the grooves of the J-plank. You will hear a click when the panel is inserted correctly. The distance between them is 0.2-0.3 cm for thermal expansion. The cladding of the building is completed by the installation of roofing strips - drip edges. Placed on the outer part of the slopes.

You can install siding yourself. The main thing is to strictly follow the manufacturer's instructions and follow all recommendations. You should buy building materials in one batch at once, so that there is enough to finish all the walls, plus 5-10% more than the calculated quantity (for adjustment). Additional elements are purchased from the same manufacturer.

Sheath the house siding even a beginner can do it. It is enough to know the procedure and some nuances. If you decide to choose vinyl siding, do-it-yourself installation is done more than simply.

Rules for installing vinyl siding yourself

Vinyl siding has a significant thermal expansion. Don't fasten siding through vinyl ! To attach it to mounting strip there are special elongated oval holes. Fastening horizontal elements siding installed in the center of the holes. Fastening of all vertical elements siding is also made in the center of the holes, except for the first one. The first nail or screw is installed to the top edge of the hole at the top of the panel siding . It turns out that the vertical panel will hang on this screw, and the remaining fasteners will secure its position.

Siding you need to attach it to the sheathing or wall, but do not pull the canvas to it, leaving a gap of 1 mm. Otherwise, on a hot sunny day, the panel will lengthen and, pressed tightly against the sheathing or wall, will turn into an “accordion”, and on a frosty winter night, on the contrary, it will shrink and burst. Not tight fasteners allow siding perform thermal compression-extension without negative consequences. For the same reason, do not fasten the panels with screwed in at an angle or with bent fasteners. They stretch the panel and interfere with its temperature movement. If it is impossible to install the fastener in the center of the mounting hole, increase the length of the hole with a notch or any other available tool.

Sometimes there is no other way to attach short cut panels than to secure it through the vinyl. In this case, make a hole with a notch in the upper part of the panel and secure it.

At connect the latch and fasten the siding without tension. Otherwise, you will not only stretch the panel profile and make it unattractive, but also increase friction in the lock and at the same time jam the panel at the fastening point. All this will prevent thermal expansion of both the panel being fixed and the already fixed panel.

When entering horizontal siding in any adjacent profile, for example, in a corner, J or H-profile, leave a gap of approximately 6 mm between the inserted panel and the bottom of the gutter of the receiving profile, and for winter installation - 9 mm. Otherwise, even properly secured siding on a hot sunny day will lengthen, rest its ends against the bottom of the gutters and bend in waves, or bend the receiving profile. When installing vertical panels and accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3 mm at the top and about 6 mm at the bottom. Do not ignore the fastening part of the siding panel. If you see that during thermal elongation of the panels, the fastening parts of different panels may rest against each other, then trim them.

Use galvanized screws for fastening. Vinyl siding serves for 50 years, during which time the corroding fasteners will rust and dirty smudges will appear. If corrosive fasteners are used initially and installed correctly, the siding will remain beautiful for its entire service life. For fastening siding use self-tapping screws with a thickness of about 3 mm and a head diameter of at least 8 mm. The installation step of the fasteners is equal to the step of the sheathing and is 40 cm.

In other words, when installation vinyl siding with your own hands secure it so that nothing interferes with its natural movement as a result of temperature changes. Siding panels must move freely due to thermal contraction and expansion, without resting against anything. This is the main installation rule.

Do not push the screws close to the panel. Leave a gap of approximately 1 mm between the head of the fastener and the siding panel. The panel should be secured, but not tightened. During installation, insert the lock hook into the mating part without tensioning the panel.

Vertical siding Horizontal siding Install fasteners in the center of the holes. One incorrectly installed fastener can stop thermal expansion and cause the panel to warp. The first fastener for a vertical panel is placed at the edge of the hole, the rest in the center.

Setting up starting strips When installing starting strips, leave a gap of 12 mm between them. When joining wall panels“overlap”, trim the fastening parts so that after installation there is a gap of 12 mm between them.

Inserting horizontal siding into the adjacent profile and installing vertical panels When inserting horizontal siding into an adjacent profile, leave a gap of 6-9 mm between the end of the panel and the gutter of the adjacent profile. When installing vertical panels or accessories, leave a gap in the gutters: 3-4 mm at the top, and about 6-8 mm at the bottom.

WALL PREPARATION

Before installation siding need to finish everything facade works, caulk the seams in the chopped walls, remove unnecessary nails and other fasteners, install thermal insulation (if provided for by the project). On walls being repaired, trims should be removed from window and door openings, rotten boards should be replaced, and all loose structures should be secured.
On frame walls siding can be attached directly to the wall, provided that the wall and corners are level. On stone, block and uneven wooden walls, siding is attached to leveling sheathing. Siding installation not necessarily done on vertical surfaces. The wall must be flat over the entire plane: without bulges and without “screws”. You can also cover inclined surfaces with siding, but it’s easier to work with vertical ones.

When installing the sheathing, use dry wood (humidity - 12–14%), otherwise the sheathing will shrink when it dries, and so will the siding. Bars with a cross section of 25 (30, 40, 50) x 60 mm or galvanized plasterboard profiles of the same width are used, treated with antiseptics and fire retardants. Wide laths prevent fasteners from falling through any placement of the siding panel.

The sheathing is installed around the perimeter of the walls being tiled, including roof gables and along the perimeter of windows, doors, and other openings and openings. It is better not to use lower horizontal perimeter gratings; they interfere with air exchange under the siding sheathing. The remaining laths are for horizontal siding installation are installed vertically on the wall, and for vertical installation of siding, respectively - horizontally. Keep the distance between the slats approximately 40 cm. The slats should be attached to the wall in increments of 40 cm.

The work begins with the installation of corner gratings. Then the cords are pulled between them and the rest of the laths are stuffed. The distance from the slats to the wall is adjusted by direct hangers, but other fastening methods can be used, for example, wooden leveling pads. The verticality and evenness of the sheathing is controlled by a building level (alcohol or laser), or a plumb line and cords. If the cladding is carried out on inclined surfaces, then the evenness of the installation of the laths is controlled by a long, even strip or cords.

Installation of laths for siding installation

It is convenient to fasten and level wooden and galvanized slats with straight hangers.

Attach all straight hangers to the wall, one above the other, using a plumb line. Insert the lath into them. Bend the hangers and secure the lath in the upper hanger. Align the lath vertically and secure it in the lower hanger. Secure the lath to all hangers. Bend or break off the protruding ends of the hangers.

INSTALLATION OF HORIZONTAL SHIRTING

1. Setting up starting strips
Using a water level, we find the lowest corner and, stepping back 5 cm, we go around the perimeter of the house with a water level, marking the line for installing the starting strips with nails driven shallowly into the corners. They must arrive at the same point from where they started. We stretch the cords between the driven nails.

We attach a corner profile to each corner of the house siding and mark on the sheathing the places where the edges of the nail strips of the corner profile will be located. Departing from these marks horizontally 6 mm along a cord stretched between the nails, we install the profiles of the starting strips on the sheathing. It is necessary to leave a gap of 10–12 mm between the starting strips. The profiles of the starting strips should not rest against the nail strip of the corner profile and each of the profiles should not rest against another similar profile. Then, during thermal elongation, they will not receive expansion, therefore, the siding attached to them will not bend.

You can do it differently. Do not retreat the starting strip from the nail strip of the corner profile, but in this case it will be necessary to trim the nail strip of the corner profile so that during thermal elongation it does not rest against the starting profile and does not bend the corner profile.

Strictly ensure that the starting strips are installed horizontally! Deviation from the horizon will lead to skew of ordinary siding panels. To level it, in addition to trimming the ends of the panels, you will also have to tension siding, and this is not acceptable. It will warp later. Don't waste time on correct installation sheathing and starting strips.

Before installing external and internal corners After using the profiles, cornice soffits should be installed or the location of their installation should be marked.

If the length of the corner profile exceeds the height of the wall being tiled, measure on the profile the required length equal to the height of the corner plus 3 mm. With the profile against the corner of the house and 3mm away from the roof eaves or soffits, install the fastener at the top of the topmost nail hole on either side of the corner. The part will hang vertically on these two nails and be 3 mm from the roof eaves, and its lower end will be 6 mm lower than the starting profile. When cladding houses with protruding plinths or when the extension of the corner profile will be interfered with installed structures, for example, when covering verandas - floors, profiles are cut and made shorter than required by the corner being covered. In this case, a gap of 3 mm is left in the upper part of the corner profile between the profile and the cornice, and the bottom is trimmed, it should not reach the obstacle (existing floor or plinth) by 6 mm. After checking the verticality of the corner profile, install the remaining fasteners at the centers of the nail holes at a distance of 25 to 40 cm from each other. Don't fasten too tightly.

If the height of the wall corner is greater than the length of the vinyl corner profile, join the two profiles. All corner profiles at all corners of the house are joined at the same height. To do this, on the upper corner profile, use metal scissors to cut off the nail strip along with curly elements profile, leaving only two flat strips that form the angle. First, install the lower corner profile, then, on top of it, the upper one. The result is a knot protected from rain and snow. The main conditions that must be met are that the gap between the nail strips of the profiles must be at least 9 mm, and the overlap of the panels must be at least 25 mm.

Instead of a corner profile, you can line the corner of the wall with two J-profiles. However, the corner will be less airtight. Therefore, the corner covered with J-profiles must first be protected by a strip of rolled waterproofing.

3. Installation of internal corner profiles
This is done in the same way as installing external corner profiles. The profile is cut to the required length, leaving 3 mm for the temperature gap between the end of the corner profile and the cornice or soffit. The lower edge of the corner elements is lowered 6 mm below the level of the lower edge of the starting strip. Or, on the contrary, it rises by 6 mm if there is a floor or other obstacle below that interferes thermal expansion profile.

The height of the corner is joined with an overlap in the same way as in the outer corners. When installing corner profiles, you must leave a gap of at least 9 mm between the nail strips and ensure that the top panel overlaps the bottom panel by 25 mm. Fastening is carried out in increments of approximately 40 mm in the center of the holes, the upper fastening is carried out to the upper edge of the hole.
Internal corners can be worked, just like external ones. budget option, from two and even from one J-profile.

4. Installation of trim around windows and doors

Window and door blocks those installed in the same plane with the wall or protruding from the wall are lined with J-profiles or platbands. Before installing window and door frames, the openings are protected with waterproofing: aprons made of roofing tin, aluminum foil or roll bitumen waterproofing.

Prepare two trims for the top and bottom of the opening and two trims for the sides. The length of all elements is made equal to the height and width of the opening, respectively, plus two heights of the vinyl profiles used. At the top profile, cuts are made on both sides equal to the height of the profiles used. At the point of the cut, the vinyl bends down, forming “tongues.” These bent pieces of vinyl will drain water from the top to the side profiles. The side profiles are inserted into the cut out part of the top profile so that the tongue is inside them. To do this, you need to cut out pieces of vinyl at the top of the side trims.

The lower casing is inserted inside the side profiles. To do this, tongues are also cut out in the side profiles, and “windows” are cut out in the bottom profiles, equal to the height of the inserted profile. The tongues of the side profiles are folded onto the lower profile, covering the cut area of ​​the lower profile with them and pressed against the protruding window. If the window is made flush with the wall, the “tongues” are folded inside the lower profile or cut off.

Window and door blocks installed in a wall niche are lined with near-window profiles. The near-window profile is essentially a modernized platband, in which a shelf has been added to cover the slopes of the wall niche. Therefore, the installation of the near-window profile is carried out according to the same rules as the platband. The shelves of the near-window profile covering the slopes are cut to the depth of the niche and inserted into pre-installed Holzplast finishing profiles.

5. Installation of the first panel
Hook the lower part of the row panel into the lock of the starting strip and attach its upper part to the sheathing without tension. Start installation from the back facade of the house, you will gain experience there. In addition, extending the panels overlapping along their length, when installing from the rear corners of the facades, makes the joint less noticeable.

In winter DIY vinyl siding installation The extension of a solid panel can be 18 mm. Leave gaps for thermal expansion. When installing siding in summer, it is also necessary to leave gaps. In the sun, the siding will still receive some increase in length, and in winter it will become shorter and at too much large gap may come out of the adjacent profile gutter. In other words, leave gaps in the adjacent profiles of 6–9 mm. When installing in hot weather - 6, and in cold weather - 9 mm. At temperatures below -20°C, do not install siding. Please note that the gap sizes are indicated for a solid siding panel. A short panel cut to length will not have such an increase in length and, if necessary, the gaps for thermal expansion can be left smaller.

Siding can be joined along its length in two ways: overlapping and using an H-profile. For overlapping siding panels, the nail and locking parts are trimmed so that the overlap of the panels is approximately 25 mm.

When installing the H-profile, its upper part is lowered below the soffit or cornice by 3 mm to provide a temperature gap so that when expanded, the panel has freedom of movement upward and does not rest against the roof elements. At the bottom, the H-profile is lowered below the lower limit of the starting profiles by 6 mm. If there is a structural restriction at the bottom of the H-profile (protruding plinth, porch, floor, etc.) that prevents its downward thermal expansion, then a gap of 6 mm should be left between the lower end of the profile and the restriction.

Increasing the length of the H-profile is done by overlapping joining. The joining is structurally reminiscent of the joining of two corner profiles - the upper profile overlaps the lower one. The placement of the H-profile on the wall must be thought out in advance so that the vertical section of the row panels, visually emphasized by the H-profile, fits organically into the overall picture of the siding sheathing.

6. Installation of subsequent panels
Check the level of horizontal installation of every third row. Having reached the bottom of the window opening with the installation of row panels, you need to trim the siding mounted under the opening to the width of the window opening plus two sizes of horizontal temperature gaps (a gap of 6 mm in each direction). The cut ends of the siding will fit into the receiving gutter of the window profile or casing and will have room for thermal expansion. The cutout depth of the row panel should provide a minimum (1–2 mm) vertical temperature gap between the panel and the receiving gutter of the lower frame of the opening.

Siding cut under and above the window so that when the side trims or near-window profiles enter the gutters, a gap of 6 mm is obtained between the cut ends and the bottom of the gutters of the side profiles.

Between siding and vertical surfaces need to leave a gap of 3 mm. Since the nail strip on the bottom panel and the lock on the panel above the window will be cut off when marking the siding, you need to punch through and bend the hooks on the siding. Install the finishing profile into the lower and upper window profiles. During installation, insert the siding panel into the finishing profile and hook it to it. If platbands are used as window cladding, hook the siding panel directly to them. Finishing profiles are not needed in this case.

Depending on the depth of siding trimming, install the finishing profile using leveling pads from siding scraps or without them.

Fastening the row panel to the bottom and top harness The window is provided with “hooks” that need to be made with a punch (punch) onto the panel cutout. Siding trimming can be done to different depths, depending on the height of the window on the facade, therefore, when using near-window profiles for planar alignment siding, A finishing profile is additionally installed in the lower trim of the opening.

7. Installing siding under the roof eaves
The final siding panel under the roof eaves is made from regular siding panel. To do this, a finishing or J-profile or complexes of J and finishing profiles, or internal corner and finishing profiles are mounted under the roof eaves.

Install a system of J and finishing profiles under the cornice, either only J or a finishing profile with leveling pads. If the cornice will be sheathed with soffits, then install a system consisting of an internal corner profile and a finishing profile. After marking and cutting the siding panel, finish the sheathing.

Measure the distance m (from the lock to the bottom of the gutter of the under-eaves profile minus 3 mm), transfer this distance to the solid siding panel. Cut it to length. Make hooks on it and install the siding panel, snapping the bottom lock into place.
In several places along the length of the siding, the distance from the lock of the penultimate row panel to the bottom of the gutter of the final profile is measured. A vertical temperature allowance of 1–2 mm is subtracted from the resulting dimensions. The results of measurements and calculations are transferred to the entire panel, from which the upper locking part is cut off. On the top of the cut siding, “hooks” are punched at approximately 20 cm intervals and folded over to the front side. Siding cut to height with hooks is inserted into the lock of the penultimate panel and inserted with the upper part into the final profiles. An upward motion snaps the siding into the locks.

8.Installation siding to the pediment
Roof gables are sheathed around the perimeter with a J-profile or internal corner profile. Their fastening is carried out according to the rules for installing vertical elements, i.e. the upper fastener is installed to the upper edge of the nail hole, the rest - in the middle of the holes.

Installation of ordinary siding panels is done in the same way as on walls, with trimming the edges of the receiving profiles entering the gutter. Remember to leave a gap of 6 mm between the siding and the bottom of the gutter (6 mm in summer and 9 mm in winter). The topmost siding panel is secured to the center of the top with a stainless nail or self-tapping screw through the vinyl. This the only place where fastening is allowed.

Today in the field building materials presented the widest range siding produced by the latest technologies. The most popular among buyers are vinyl, zinc, steel, aluminum and wood material for surface finishing.

Making a choice in favor of a certain type is not enough; you need to know how to lay siding. Regardless of the material, the installation process is almost the same, so it’s enough to figure out how to attach vinyl panels.

Covering with siding panels

Among the variety of materials, vinyl siding takes a leading position and is successfully used in finishing residential buildings. It is made in the form of polyvinyl chloride panels with a thickness of 1 mm and is laid by overlapping each other (overlapping). The siding surface may vary in texture, but imitation wood is often used.

The panels are 30-40 cm long and 20-25 cm wide, with slight adjustments depending on the manufacturer.

Siding has become so popular because it has a number of significant advantages, some of which are described below:

1. Vinyl siding has high environmental safety indicators.
2. The panels are highly resistant to temperature fluctuations and resistant to fire.
3. For a long time service life the material does not rot, does not change its original shape and color.
4. To implement installation work you do not need to have professional skills and specialized tools, so the installation can be done independently.

Working with siding panels is permissible not only on new buildings, but also for cladding buildings that are in operation. However, before you begin the finishing process, carefully understand the technological intricacies.

Manufacturing of sheathing

When preparing for installation work, you need to carefully study the method of covering siding panels by reading the instructions, which indicate the step-by-step procedure.

1. Initially, you need to determine the amount of material required to cover your structure. This is done by calculating the area of ​​the facades, taking into account a 10% reserve that will be used to adjust the panels during installation.
2. Siding requires preliminary preparation of surfaces, from which all foreign elements that may interfere with installation must be removed. Window openings must be freed from grilles, trim, shutters and slopes; also remove doors and drain pipes.
3. If necessary, seal gaps and renew (strengthen) the previous finish.
4. The next stage of the finishing process should be the production of lathing from wooden beams, which are fixed on the wall surface along a vertical line in increments of 30-40 centimeters. The sheathing is not made by fastening the beams in a horizontal position, otherwise a violation will occur natural ventilation space, which is covered with panels. Sheathing should also be installed around doors, windows and at the corners of the house.
5. Consider sealing areas exposed to moisture using special products.
6. The siding finishing process begins with determining the starting installation point. The panels should be fixed in such a way that they cover part of the foundation from above. That is, horizontal markings are made on the surface of the walls of the building along the entire perimeter.

Siding panel cladding technology

1. Next, take the starting strip supplied with the material and nail it with nails at the level of the previously made markings.
2. Next, secure one panel of siding to the starting strip and nail it across the entire area, working from the center.
3. After securing the new section of the initial strip, continue sequential installation of the next rows of siding panels.
4. When starting to install the final panel row, secure finishing bar, nailing it to the surface of the cornice.

Siding insulation measures

Siding panels are subject to temperature fluctuations, which can lead to changes in the original geometric parameters. To avoid this during installation, it is necessary to provide clearances for possible deformation.

If you follow all these simple rules and technology, you can easily cover your house with siding panels and give it a beautiful appearance. If everything is done correctly, the result will please you for a long time without additional repairs.

Video

We present to your attention a video that shows how siding is installed on an old wooden house:

Finishing the facade with siding and installing a drainage system:

Siding – modern material, which is used for covering wooden and brick walls. During installation work, you will be able to insulate the walls of the house, which will not only save significant money, but also increase the level of comfort in general. Assembling siding is a simple process that even a beginner can do.

But first you need to familiarize yourself with the basic rules of installation and watch videos from the masters. The apparent simplicity of the process also hides some pitfalls - the installation technology takes into account the effect of expansion and contraction of the material when temperature changes.

An important element for installing siding is the sheathing., which is necessary for installing vinyl or metal panels. To arrange it, you also need to follow some rules, which we will tell you about. Therefore, the question is, Profile for siding - the basis of installation work - key element of this article.

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Step by step guide

Siding assembly instructions are a key document that a good manufacturing company must supply its products with. This documentation contains the necessary recommendations and technological methods for installing materials.

Note! You must strictly adhere to the instructions in the instructions, otherwise you may lose the product warranty.

General rules

• Do not drive nails all the way in. Always leave a gap of 1 to 1.5 mm between their caps and the facing material.

Note! After fastening, the siding panels should move freely in the horizontal direction.

• Drive the nail exactly into the center of the mounting hole.
• The siding assembly technology provides for a compensation gap between the siding and accessories (5-6 mm). If installation occurs in cold weather, leave a gap of about 9-10 mm.
• Once the siding panel is clicked into place with the bottom element, do not use any force to tighten it further.

Tools

1. Circular electric saw and hacksaw for metal.
2. Metal ruler, hammer and tape measure.
3. Pliers.
4. Screwdriver and awl.
5. Knife and scissors for metal.
6. Building level.

Surface preparation

1. Securely secure old loose wall boards, replacing them with new ones if necessary.
2. If necessary, remove any remaining plaster around window openings and doors.
3. Remove downspouts, window sills, and various fixtures from your home.
4. Remove any plants that are in contact with the wall.

Installation of sheathing

Most often, the sheathing is made from boards or wooden slats– the price of such materials is low compared to metal profiles. To install horizontal siding, the sheathing elements must be installed vertically with a step between them of 0.3-0.4 m.

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Note! For vertical installation panels, the rules for installing the sheathing are the same, but install it horizontally.

Before you learn how the siding is assembled, you need to pay attention to the fact that the sheathing allows you to carefully and evenly install the insulation boards. This will not only increase the efficiency of the house, but will also prevent the manifestation of the so-called "wave" effect.

Advice! When using insulation in slabs or rolls, please note that loose material cannot be used - it can become deformed.

Siding installation

• Using a level, string and chalk, mark a horizontal line on the wall around the entire perimeter of the house. Use as a reference position the first nail to be driven 4.0 cm above the lowest point of the house.
• Secure with nails starting line, placing it with the top edge on the drawn chalk line. Don't fix it too tightly.
• When adding sections of the starting strip, leave a distance of about 6 mm between adjacent elements, which compensates for possible expansion.
• At the junction of the walls, install internal corners, taking into account the distances to the cornice and the starting strip. Attach this accessory with nails in the center of the holes - it should hang freely on them, and not be tightly nailed!

• The siding assembly diagram requires the use of a similar technology for installing an external corner, which is mounted leaving a distance of 6 mm to the cornice.
• The J-rail is fastened around various openings, nailing it to them not too tightly.
• To install the first element, you need to insert the bottom edge of the panel into the starting strip and nail its top edge. Start assembling the siding from the back of the building, gradually moving towards the facade.
• Next, we'll look at how to assemble the siding after completing the installation of the first row. To continue the installation, each time you need to install a new row, starting from the back of the house, again moving towards the gable. Siding panels must be positioned so that the joint of their top row does not end up above the joint of the bottom row.

• To install panels under the window, cut right size elements. Measurements will be required. Place the siding under the window and, holding the panel, mark on it the width of the opening, in addition to which add 6 mm on each side.

• to install last panel siding under the eaves - nail one or more finishing strips to the wall of the house flush with it. Do the joining of the parts exactly as shown in the photo.

Summary

Now you know how to properly assemble siding. Carry out all installation operations in full accordance with the instructions - an excellent result will not be long in coming.

One of the most reliable building materials for protecting the entire construction site from any external influences is siding. However, no matter what qualities this material has, if the installation of siding is not carried out according to technology, then it protective properties may be reduced to zero. And, despite the fact that this material, by its structure, should protect the structure from precipitation, exposure ultraviolet radiation, noise and other adverse phenomena, the slightest violation during installation it leads to the penetration of harmful substances into the premises.

In this article we will talk about installing siding with our own hands, give detailed instructions for dummies, and also accompany all photos and video materials.

To cover any building with siding, you need tools and some equipment. First of all, these are screws and nails.

For cutting and fastening you will need a hammer, a level, a tape measure, a plumb line, a square, hammer drill pliers, a hacksaw and a circular saw with fine teeth. If we are talking about installing metal siding, then you also need to purchase metal scissors to trim the panels in the corners. When installing vinyl siding, a sharpened ordinary knife is used for cutting in the transverse direction, and for transverse cutting - circular saw. To protect your eyes, experts recommend wearing safety glasses.

Instructions

Below we will describe the work processes for laying vinyl siding step by step. Following simple tips and recommendations, you can do this work without being a specialist.

The first stage is the correct cutting of the material in order to use it as economically as possible and avoid mistakes when laying out the panels. To do this, make a plan (drawing) that allows you to correctly distribute the material over the entire surface to be laid.

Siding base

Before installation of the panels begins, sheathing is installed on the façade of the building. This is done in all cases, except when they are faced with panels. wooden building. To make lathing, wooden blocks, edged boards, and metal profiles are used.

The effectiveness of installation depends on the correctness and thoroughness with which the sheathing will be filled, that is, how strong the resulting base will be.

So, the installation of basement siding (as, indeed, any other) will be carried out correctly if all the unevenness of the wall or sheathing is smoothed out. The fact is that in the final version, the siding will only highlight all the irregularities and flaws in the preparation. For best quality work, horizontal cladding of panels is carried out on a horizontal sheathing, and vertical installation perform vertically accordingly.

If the cladding is carried out using insulation, then it is recommended to use roll insulation as a thermal insulation material, and the use of loose materials contributes to surface deformation.

The basic rule that the installation instructions require is the formation of a gap between the panels, since siding is subject to thermal expansion and contraction, and if this condition is not met, the facade may swell and warp. The panels are fastened with self-tapping screws or galvanized nails through appropriate rectangular slots.

The nails should not be driven very tightly into the middle of the holes, in which case the fastening of the panels will be strong and reliable. Installation by driving nails directly into the panels will destroy them and is therefore not recommended.

After securing the panels, they should “move” freely in the horizontal direction. Installation is carried out with an overlap of approximately 25-30 millimeters.

To begin with, all panels must be left outside for two to three hours so that they “get used” to the outside temperature. When installing siding in cold winter months, the gap between the panels must be increased at least twice, that is, it should be about 10 millimeters. In this case, the linear expansion coefficient of the siding will be maintained, and the panels will create a durable and reliable protection buildings and structures.

The first step required by the instructions is to install the initial elements. These are starting profiles, internal and external corners, and special J-profiles. After which you can begin the actual installation of siding.

The starting profile is the element that begins the laying of all panels, and to which all other panels are attached. J-profiles are used to fasten panels in hard-to-reach places, for example, at the junctions of cornices and walls, along the perimeter of window and door openings. With the help of this profile, facades can be given any, even the most bizarre, look, since it allows fastening taking into account all design features structures. Another element used to improve facades is the finishing strip. The facades in the top row are sheathed with it, thanks to which the surface looks smooth and neat.

When fastening panels in a vertical direction on the external corners of a building, the installation technology involves finishing with the so-called external corners, this allows for a neat appearance of the corner joints.

The same role is played by the internal corner, only it provides carefully disguised joints of the internal corners of buildings.

Siding

The paneling begins from those places where the maximum load is expected to be applied to them. These are doors, gates, window openings etc. This allows all other connections to be isolated from these places. All regular siding panels are attached using a lock joint. That is, the lower lock of the previous panel (upper) must be fastened to the upper lock of the subsequent panel (lower). Vertically, the cladding is overlapped, thus having the ability to adjust the size of the sections, both in height and width.

Basement siding

The work of installing basement siding is not difficult, so you can easily do it yourself. First you need to carry out preparatory work. The final result depends on their quality.

The standard size of the plinth panel is 500x1200 mm. Their fastening is carried out in the same way as regular siding on the sheathing. Other sizes may also be available, for example, 220x3000 mm. Such dimensions require the installation of exclusively vertical sheathing.

In some cases, decisions are made to cover the entire facade of the house with basement siding. Additionally, the wall can be insulated.

The principle of making the frame is as follows:

1. The sheathing for the plinth is best made from metal profile. Wooden beam V close range dampness may accumulate from the ground, as a result of which it will become unusable.
2. Based climatic conditions, you independently determine the height of the base. If you live in an area where the ground freezes heavily, then the sheathing should be raised from the ground level by 150 mm. If it does not freeze, then you can begin installation directly on it.
3. When making the sheathing, both horizontal and vertical guides should be installed. So, the pitch between vertical ones is 900 mm, and between horizontal ones is 450 mm.

When assembling the sheathing frame, be sure to use a level. Otherwise, the installation of basement siding will not proceed smoothly.

When the sheathing is completed, you can begin installing the basement siding. The work is the following sequence:

• The starting bar is mounted horizontally.
• Internal/corner elements are installed at the corners.
• For fastening, self-tapping screws with a press washer 4–5 cm long are used.
• There should be a gap of up to 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. This play will allow the panel to move without difficulty when expanding.
• At the joints in the corner of the building, thermal gaps of up to 10 mm should also be left. To make them invisible, they need to be covered with a trim corner.
• Siding installation begins on the left side. So, if there is an imitation on it natural stone or brick, the panel must be trimmed on the left side so that a smooth edge is obtained. After this, the cut edge is inserted into the trim corner and placed on the starting profile. Each subsequent panel fits strictly into the groove. When it comes to the opposite corner, the right edge of the element is also trimmed and inserted into the trim corner.

To increase the thermal insulation qualities of the house, siding can be installed with insulation. Let's look at the features of façade insulation using an example: wooden house. By installing siding with insulation, you can achieve 3 goals simultaneously:

1. Updated facade.
2. Thermal insulation.
3. Moisture protection.

But for insulation to be truly effective, the selected material must meet the following criteria:

• Easy to install.
• Preservation of the primary form.
• Resistance to chemical and biological compounds.
• Environmental friendliness.
• Long service life.
• Low thermal conductivity.

The choice of insulation for siding is also influenced by two factors: air humidity in your area and wind rose.

Types of insulation

There is a wide choice thermal insulation materials for the facade of a wooden house. For example, if you select roll insulation, then the layer should be from 3 to 20 mm. Its fastening is carried out using special glue. You can also use mineral or basalt fibers, which are produced in slabs. Mineral wool and polyethylene foam are very popular. Polystyrene foam is also often used. The strength and effectiveness of this material has been tested by time.

Most often, mineral wool is used to insulate the facade under the siding. This material retains its original shape and is ideal for any type of siding. Mineral wool is produced in slabs of the following sizes:

• 600×1200 mm.
• 500×1000 mm.

When choosing mineral wool to insulate the facade, make sure that its density is more than 80 kg/m3.

Before laying the insulation, it is mandatory to lay a layer of vapor barrier (usually polyethylene or roofing felt). It is necessary to prevent condensation between the insulation and the wall.

A vapor barrier is not needed when laying mineral wool. This insulation allows steam to pass through and does not absorb moisture.

When laying insulation, it is important not to leave a single crack or gap. It should envelop the entire façade of the building. The insulation itself is fixed on the already manufactured sheathing. After this process, you can begin installing siding, the technology of which was written about in this article.

• When installing any siding, it is necessary to avoid excessive tension on the panels when connecting each subsequent row to the previous one. Otherwise, this is fraught with swelling, deformation of a separate panel and damage to the surface of building facades.
• The very last row of panels is laid after the finishing strip is installed.
• Paneling is carried out from the bottom up, and is completed under the eaves of the structure.
• To install siding in places where objects, such as pipes, are located, holes are cut in the panels that are approximately 6 millimeters wider than the object.
• When covering the openings with siding using J-profiles, it is necessary to install the upper and lower edges above and below them, respectively. First, J-profiles are installed, and the edges are installed in them.
• When installing siding above the eaves, first install two or three finishing slats, joined to each other (the lower gap is maintained within 3 millimeters).

Video

We invite you to watch a video about installing siding.

Photo

Below in the photographs you can view the options for finishing houses with siding:

Scheme

The diagrams show some details of siding installation: