DIY mini crane. Lifting loads without special equipment - how to calculate and make a chain hoist with your own hands

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Users of the portal share their experience in building homemade lifts from simple to complex structures.

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams to the second floor, lift bags of cement or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, during the construction of private houses, cranes and various lifts are often used. This way, construction goes faster, which means that the “box” is cheaper, because It is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization tools than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house “with one helmet.” Therefore, the urgent question is how not to physically overstrain yourself when laying a wall from aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting option is the unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Krestik. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

I am building a house myself and in order to be able to put aerated concrete blocks, built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Lift technical characteristics:

width – 2200 mm;
height – 4200 mm;
boom radius – 4200 mm;
load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
maximum height lifting block for masonry – 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure is raised, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

swivel wheels;
profile pipes for a mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
powerful gate hinges;
swivel mechanism the booms are made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I’m thinking about making wireless control, replacing the gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of “joints” in the boom at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags of sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance: so that the lift can move along construction site or, for example, by concrete slab second floor ceilings need to be supported workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

Konstantin Y. Member of FORUMHOUSE

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than standard ones. The length and height are 2-3 times greater than a regular GB. The crane has enough lifting capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to Krestik, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, and for the sake of a small volume (to a regular a private house) will not do this.

Vegaroma FORUMHOUSE Member

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

There is no need to install scaffolding when laying GB walls. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured the concrete lintels over the windows the old fashioned way, from buckets, because... The volume is small, and it’s easier to do it with one assistant.

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another option lifting mechanism made from metal “lying underfoot” by a portal participant with the nickname Peter_1.

According to Peter_1, the reason for the construction of the crane is that the house is getting higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, after revising the “unnecessary things”, the user manufactured a completely dismountable crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

I think my crane can lift more, but I didn’t overload it. The crane can be disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and can be easily transported in a car trailer. I carry an arrow on the trunk. Statically tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift up to 150 kg. This is quite enough for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. Cost of construction, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for welding inverter and paints - 4 thousand rubles.

The crane, + time for turning, + selection of components and fitting of components, I did it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that a real crane is not always needed when building a private house. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on a hoist with electric drive.

Gexx FORUMHOUSE Member

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets of building blocks, 6 meter beam for the Mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

All rust was cleaned off with a grinder, and the pipes were sprayed and then painted with paint with a rust reducer.

In order to be able to assemble the lift on the ceiling of the second floor, all components (where welding is not needed) are made collapsible - with bolted connections.

A hoist is installed on the stand using clamps.

On the control panel, in case of rain, put on plastic bottle with the bottom cut off.

The telpher covers a canopy made of used roofing iron.

When lifting a pallet, two boards are placed under it, and the pallet is lowered onto them.

The entire structure is fixed to the floor with clamps.

Drawing with dimensions of the lift.

As a result, the user has a universal, self-manufacturing and budget “helper” that greatly simplifies the work of building a house.

These are topics that describe in detail how to make a lift for aerated concrete, and provide dozens of options for mini-cranes, from simple to the most complex designs.

Light jib cranes with a lifting capacity of up to 1 ton are indispensable when carrying out various electrical, installation and construction work. Thanks to their design, it is possible to install devices in various openings of a building or on ceilings, as well as to move them for convenient use. They are easy to assemble and install, and if necessary, they can be quickly disassembled into their component elements and moved to a suitable location.

The use of such structures is rational in the absence of the possibility of operating other types of hydraulic and hydraulic machines. There are many types of cranes with different designs. They are divided into stationary and mobile. The boom devices are equipped with one electric drive mechanism for moving the load. The crane operates by manual control.

Construction mini crane

You can create it yourself various instruments and instruments that are so necessary for construction and other types of work. Despite the fact that a self-made mini-crane is characterized by a limited transferable load weight (no more than 250 kg), such a design will simplify the implementation of most construction work.

The main task is to select all the tools and parts necessary for creation and subsequent operation. The weight of the prefabricated device can reach up to 300 kg, depending on the materials used. At the same time, it has compact dimensions and the ability to move without preliminary disassembly using a car.

do it yourself: assembly

Using a worm-based gearbox, a cargo winch is formed. It can also provide the creation of a manual drive that simplifies the assembly of the boom winch. The basis for the screw extensions are construction supports. All the elements presented above form the basis of the design. In addition, drums for winches are needed. It is worth noting that they self-production not everyone can do it, since the process is complex and labor-intensive, as well as the need for specialized equipment and experience in carrying out such work.

The way out of the situation is rotors from an electric motor, which can be used as a basis and significantly simplify the task. Particular attention should be paid to matching the dimensions of the elements used and the future device. To do this, additional measurements are taken using a ruler.

Additional items

To simplify movement, the platform is equipped with wheels. Elements from the conveyor cart may be useful. When creating the structure, you should not forget about this addition, since it is thanks to it that the simplest crane, assembled with your own hands, moves. To do this, you just need to remove the remote supporting elements, which does not cause any particular difficulties and is done in a short time. It is important to follow safety precautions, in particular the boom must be set to zero level to prevent loss of balance and the crane falling.

Peculiarities

The optimal boom height is 5 meters. For its manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of about 8 cm is used. A profile of two corners is mounted into the base. You also need to create a rotating mechanism to rotate and lift the boom; a car hub from any truck will do for this. vehicle. The counterweight does not require special materials, since they can be taken standard bricks. You can create a crane with your own hands using both caterpillar tracks and a frame. The last element can be taken from an unused machine.

It is worth noting that there is no need for a brake for the turning mechanism and winch, since it is not needed during the operation of the crane, and the finished device will operate at low speed.

Advantages of the design

Suitable for forming an external support structure and a common base. For the latter, according to experts, it will be optimal to use a channel of 200. The length of the thrust screws should be within 50 cm, due to which the crane can be mounted with its own hands on any surface, including those with a large number of irregularities. Thus, there is no need to prepare the site on which the building is being built.

Difficulties sometimes arise with the wheels, since on loose soil they can spin poorly and dig into it. Therefore, it is advisable to carry out work on hard ground. After completion of construction, the structure is disassembled into its component elements for storage.

What can be done for the garage

At self-repair cars often need to remove the engine, so many car owners are wondering how to make a crane with their own hands. The most simple option is a lift, the creation of which requires a hand winch, racks on triangular supports with wheels and a transverse pipe.

At the top of the racks, fasteners for the pipe are fixed by welding. TO vertical rack is welded and the rollers are mounted on the beam, subsequently they are used to move the cable. In this case, it is not necessary to purchase a winch, since you can make this design yourself.

Such a device will not clutter up the space, it can be disassembled, and the cross beam and supports separately will not take up much space. The crane, created with your own hands for a garage, is capable of lifting and moving a load weighing no more than 800 kg. Its main advantage is that there is no need to purchase expensive materials.

Lift

As noted earlier, you can make a winch yourself. To do this, you will need a drum equipped with a cable; it must be fixed to a structure made of pipes with a square cross-section. A small sprocket with a chain drive is installed on the electric drive, and a large one is installed on the edge of the drum. For creating manual winch a shaft equipped with a drum is complemented by a handle.

To replace and repair most parts in a car, a platform or pit is required; if they are not available, you can use a lift. Despite the existing risks when working with such a device, its creation is justified by economic benefits and practical benefits.

An overhead trolley crane, assembled with a winch yourself, is the simplest option; the machine is installed on platforms after being raised to the desired height. There is also a scissor design, which is characterized by the absence of the possibility of cable breakage, which the previous option cannot guarantee.

Scissor crane

The base and platform of the scissor lift are made of channels. Two-piece distributor, pump, bushings, and are required for shears.

A self-made UAZ crane is capable of lifting loads weighing more than 500 kg. It can also be removed upon completion of work. The main purpose of the device is to fix retractable supports. The base of the structure is made of a thick-walled square, secured to the frame with several bolts. The retractable pores stay on the bumper and raise the rear of the car.

Crane “Pioneer”

The mechanism makes it possible to simplify the implementation of many repair and construction works, as well as to ensure the implementation of actions that cannot be performed without additional lifting devices. The design is suitable for cargo of various volumes and sizes, and it can be installed on the floors of houses under construction, in pits and on the roof.

Among the main constituent elements It is worth noting the rotating and supporting frames, the control panel. The device does not cause any difficulties in the process of use and the application of significant physical effort. Management is within the power of every person, even those without relevant experience.

Many owners of private houses and summer cottages. Their spread is due to the fact that each part of the mechanism, regardless of its complexity, can be performed in the desired manner and with the necessary functionality. In addition to moving heavy loads such as monolithic blocks, such cranes enable the delivery of light objects to great heights.

Unfortunately, the creation hydraulic devices, as a rule, is not possible. But, despite this, the crane (with your own hands), the photo of which is presented below, is easy to operate and has sufficient lifting capacity.

Assembly of the Pioneer crane

Many parts can be found, surprisingly, in a landfill. For a homemade mechanism, the main components are a rectangular pipe and an I-beam. It is important that the latter fits easily into the pipe. To create a telescopic unit for an I-beam, sliding guides are made. It is worth noting that they must be lubricated with special compounds to reduce the degree of friction.

For the device to function, cables with a small diameter are also required. They can be purchased at a hardware store. A channel is often used to secure the rotating and supporting frames. It also ensures that the device can be firmly mounted on any surface. As a rule, it is the roof of a building under construction. In accordance with safety regulations, the manufacture of a rectangular platform as ballast is required, and it will reduce the likelihood of problems while the crane, assembled with your own hands, is in operation. An electric motor connected to a winch is used to start the lifting process.

Height modern houses become more and more, but the weight of concrete blocks does not decrease. For this reason, even for domestic purposes, it would be a good idea to make a crane with your own hands. This design, naturally, will not have a large load capacity, approximately 200 kg. Of course, this is probably not the limit, but it’s better not to experiment. This crane is a completely prefabricated structure that weighs from 200 to 300 kg, so self-assembly such a crane will not cause any difficulties. In addition, this crane is very convenient to transport; it fits well in a Chinese pickup truck.

The cargo winch can be made from a worm gear with an electric drive of 600 W, while the boom winch can be made from a manual drive organized using the same gearbox.

You can use construction supports as a basis for outriggers on screw stops. To make drums for winches, you can use rotors from electric motors, and they should be selected in accordance with the dimensions.

The mobile platform must be equipped with wheels that were previously on the conveyor trolley. This makes it possible to easily move the crane from one position to another; all that needs to be done is to remove the outriggers.

Removal and installation of these supports will take approximately five minutes. For this reason, the design can be considered quite mobile. However, there is a drawback: to move the crane you need to lower the boom to zero level, otherwise the crane may overturn due to imbalance.

The do-it-yourself crane has a five-meter boom made from a Ø 7.5 cm pipe and a square profile at the very base, made from a pair of corners. In addition, the crane has a portal to lift the boom, and a rotating mechanism, which is based on a hub from a truck.

As a counterweight, you can use a frame from a non-working machine complete with four caterpillar tracks, or just bricks. The winch does not include a brake, since the need to use it is a big question.

The turning mechanism also does not have a brake, since the crane is not designed to work with high speeds, and therefore the inertial forces are too small.

Most thin metal, which is used for this tap is approximately 3 mm. The outrigger and the base are, for the most part, made of a rectangular pipe, with dimensions 85 by 50 and 85 by 55. A 200 channel channel is used to make the base of the tower. The hook cage is equipped with a powerful bearing, which means that the rotation of the hook does not depend on the pulley. At the same time, during rotation, overlapping or twisting of the track is eliminated.

The length of the stop screws is 40 cm. This is the reason that the installation of the crane can be carried out even on extremely uneven surfaces.

Now about the wheels, not everything is so smooth here. It's about about a small flaw. The essence of the problem is that when using a crane with the described wheels on loose soil, the wheels burrow into the ground while moving, and if the soil is hard, then there are no problems. The described construction can be considered one-time use, this means that after you have completed necessary work, it should be disassembled for metal or until next time. It is for this reason that this design has little load capacity and is not durable.

A crane of this type can be manufactured in approximately three days, taking into account the fact that all the necessary components are prepared. The production of gearboxes was made from the first items that came to hand. The gearboxes have the following gear ratios: 1 to 30 and 1 to 35.

Connection three phase motor performed in a single-phase network. It has a shaft output of 600 W and capacitors with a capacity of 80 microfarads. The weight of all installations, if not taking into account counterweights, will be approximately 250 kg, with a relatively low cost. The bulk of the components used are borrowed from other designs; you only have to worry about purchasing cables and bearings.

After you make a crane with your own hands, you can easily lift 150 -200 kg, which is quite impressive considering that it is not intended for industrial scale.

A simpler version of the tap:

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams onto the second floor, lift bags of cement, or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

An interesting variant of an unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Cross. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

Cross

I am building a house myself and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, I built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Lift technical characteristics:

width – 2200 mm;
height – 4200 mm;
boom radius – 4200 mm;
load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

To make the lift, the user needed:

swivel wheels;
profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
powerful gate hinges;
The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

Cross

Important nuance: in order for the lift to move around the construction site or, for example, over the concrete slab of the second floor, it is necessary to keep the workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

Konstantin Y. Member of FORUMHOUSE

According to Cross, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, but for the sake of a small volume (for an ordinary private house) they will not do this.

Vegaroma FORUMHOUSE Member

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

Cross

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another version of a lifting mechanism made of metal “lying under your feet” was made by a portal participant with the nickname Peter 1.

According to Peter 1, The reason for building a crane is that the house is getting higher and higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, after revising the “unnecessary things”, the user manufactured a completely dismountable crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

Peter 1

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. The cost of the structure, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for a welding inverter and paint, is 4 thousand rubles.

Peter 1

The crane, + time for turning, + selection of components and fitting of components, I did it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that a real crane is not always needed when building a private house. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on an electrically driven hoist.

Gexx FORUMHOUSE Member

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets with building blocks, a 6-meter beam for the mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.

On the roof or upper floors, and without special devices this is very difficult. We will describe the process of assembling a simple and reliable construction hoist with your own hands, which can lift up to 300 kg alone.

The device assembled according to the above diagram is absolutely mobile and can be brought to a construction site without any problems, even a passenger car with roof rack.

For assembly you will need:

laminated timber 60x40 mm - 10 m;
timber 40x40 - 9 m;
board 25x80 - 16 m;
rigging block with bearing - 2 pcs.;
roller on a bearing with an axle - 4 pcs.;
nylon cable - 12 m;
plywood 15 mm - less than 1 m 2.

Assembling the guides

The lift is a trolley sliding on rollers between two T-rails. To make them you will need wood good quality humidity not more than 12%: timber 60x40 and board 25x80. Any curvature is undesirable; the tree should not have any defects.

The beam in the guide plays the role of a spacer, setting the distance between the shelves of the brand. It should be 2-3 mm larger than the diameter of the rollers; if necessary, plan the beam along the narrow end and bring it to the desired thickness.

To assemble the guide, you need to insert a beam between the boards and align them along one edge. To ensure that the structure is completely monolithic, it is recommended to coat the contacting edges with PVA glue before assembly.

Fold the parts, align them under the square and secure with clamps. Then fasten the boards and beams with white anodized self-tapping screws 55 mm long, screw them in a checkerboard pattern with a step of 30-35 cm in each row. Both boards need to be fastened with self-tapping screws, so the guides will be less susceptible to warping.

If you want to make the guides longer than the available lumber, lay the beams and boards with an overlap of half the length. If spliced correctly, the structure will be extremely strong; all that remains is to remove internal joints boards to zero for smooth movement of the rollers.

After assembling both guides, cover them with two layers of drying oil. Check the width of the gap under the rollers and, if necessary, adjust with emery cloth. At a distance of 30 mm from the end, in the center of the bar, make through hole diameter 14 mm. Use it to bolt the guides to the crossbars; place wide washers under the nut and bolt head. To avoid displacement of the diagonals, make a connection with a half-tree hem.

Trolley design

Start by assembling the frame: insert three 75 cm long crossbars between 130 cm pieces of 40x40 mm timber. Install the middle crossbar 40-45 cm from the bottom edge. Fasten the joints with self-tapping screws, or better yet, assemble the frame using tenon joints.

Attach two 80 cm pieces of timber perpendicular to the frame to the bottom beam, insert a 75 cm long crossbar between their ends and fasten the structure. To strengthen the pallet, make two inclined gussets 60 cm long from timber or boards, cut the edges at an angle of 45°. Attach the gusset to the pallet at a distance of 40 cm from the corner.

Cut a sheet of plywood measuring 83x84 cm and drill holes 20 mm from each edge in 7 cm increments. Through the holes made, screw the bottom of the pallet to the frame with self-tapping screws 45 mm long.

If you plan to increase the load capacity of your cart, the junction of the pallet frame and gussets must be reinforced with overlay plates and angles, and the plywood on the bottom with metal brackets. Attach loops to the upper corners of the frame for padlock with a tail length of at least 70 mm. Insert an M14 bolt into the holes and screw a self-locking nut onto it. You need to pass a piece of cable about 2 meters long under the bolts and tie it into a loop, to which the traction rope will be attached through a carabiner or thimble.

Brackets for blocks

On the top and bottom crossbars between the guide posts you need to secure one rigging block. Fastening is possible only through a bolted connection with the obligatory installation of wide washers or, better yet, metal plates under the nuts.

It is recommended to purchase climbing pulleys with a bearing or rigging pulleys with a groove. Most products have a solid body with tight-fitting cheeks, therefore, releasing the cable from the pulley is impossible.

If you're trying to accommodate existing skates, consider adding a retractor lug to them. Roll 6 mm thick steel wire until a loop is formed, and then bend the edges of the structure at the required distance for fastening under the nut to the axis of the block. If you equip the block roller with a swivel, lifting the load will be more convenient and the cable will last longer.

Rollers and their fastening

For smooth sliding of the cart, it should be equipped with four roller wheels installed on the sides 20-25 cm from the corners. Buy rollers with maintenance-free bearings and a single-sided steel axle that is at least 20 mm long. Instead of standard rollers, ball bearings with a closed cage and a cage width of at least 25 mm or wheels from old roller skates can be used.

The roller axis must be removed and a hole to match its diameter must be drilled in the center of the 40x80 mm plate. Having inserted the axle into the hole, install it strictly perpendicular to the plate and weld it, then make four holes in the corners for the M8 bolt.

How to improve the lift

A very useful addition that significantly increases the safety of use will be the installation of landing pockets for fixing the front wheels of the trolley in a raised position. This is not only very convenient when unloading, but also makes it possible to use the lift yourself.

To install pockets, it is necessary to cut out part of the back board of the guide on which the trolley rollers rest. When lifting, the wheel will slip into the formed opening and stop on a U-shaped block assembled from three bars. To prevent the wheel from accidentally popping out, leave a small lip on the board. After unloading, the trolley can be easily removed from the landing pockets and lowered down, holding it by the cable.

To lift more load at a time, you can strengthen the vertical frame of the cart and install a movable block on it, but this will increase the length of the rope by 1.5 times. The traction rope, in this case, is attached to one of the corners between the guide and the connecting crossbar, passed into a movable block on the trolley, then placed in the fixed upper and lower pulleys.

It is also possible to install the gate as on a well for convenient winding of the traction rope. It can be made from a cut of 100x100 mm timber, brought to a hexagon by a plane. To install the gate, you will need additional L-shaped posts and replacing the bottom crossbar mounting bolts with studs of the appropriate length. The loosened bolts must be used for oblique mating of the racks with the guides.

Using a gate implies increased danger, because a person is always at the lift. To prevent the cart from breaking and falling, it is recommended to install the simplest jumar of climbing equipment next to the upper block.

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