Buying Economy Panels and installing them yourself is possible! Installation instructions for economy panels. Selection, delivery and installation of economy panels How economy panels are assembled

An important advantage of economy panels is their simple and quick installation, thanks to which they can be used as soon as possible design and open a store. At the same time, installed economy panels can always be removed and mounted in another place, without the slightest damage to them appearance. This feature of economic panels also allows you to quickly redesign the sales area or change its functionality.

Installation of economy panels does not require any special professional skills; it is simple and fast. The economy panel is fastened to a surface made of concrete, brick, plasterboard, or wooden beams.

Required tools:
1. Level
2. Self-tapping screws
3. Drill
4. Screwdriver

Installation instructions for economy panels

Before installing the econompanel, allow it to warm up to room temperature. Prepare the walls of the room for installing economy panels.

1. Carefully install the panel in the selected place against the wall, check the horizon of the upper end or one of the grooves with a level.
2. Place the panel firmly against the wall and use a drill with a drill with a diameter of 4.5 mm to make holes in the grooves of the economy panel, with the end of the drill marking the location of the hole in the wall. Make holes in at least 9 places (3 each in the top, center and bottom grooves) for panels used for light loads - shoes, clothing accessories, jewelry, Cell phones etc. For heavy goods – outerwear, Appliances, household goods, make 15 holes in 5 slots.
3. When installing horizontal panels, install the bottom panels first. The panels have special half-grooves for alignment.
4. If the walls of the room are made of gypsum, then you will need gypsum dowels and 4.5 x 40 screws. If the walls are concrete or brick, then you need to use plastic dowels No. 6 and 4.5 x 40 screws. If the walls are made of plywood and chipboard, the economy panels are attached to 4.5x40 self-tapping screws without dowels. If the walls of the room are uneven or you need to leave space for wiring, the economy panels can be mounted on a plasterboard profile or vertical bars using 4.5x25 self-tapping screws; 4.5x30 or 4.5x40.
5. Attach the economy panels using self-tapping screws directly to the wall through pre-drilled holes.
6. Insert the plastic or aluminum inserts with the groove facing up by pressing them.
7. Clean the panel with a soft cloth and water. Do not use harsh abrasives for cleaning. detergents– they can scratch the surface of the panel.
8. Place necessary accessories(hangers, shelf holders, hooks, baskets, etc.) in the grooves of the economy panels. Minimum distance between accessories with a maximum load of 10 kg per accessory is 20 cm.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS FOR ECONOMY PANELS
Detailed installation of economic panel commercial equipment is shown. Recommendations are given for installing an economy panel on Various types walls An example of equipping a store with economy panels in two hours is given.

Plastic and MDF panels are increasingly used for finishing modern rooms. They are easiest to use in rooms with high humidity. You can decorate both walls and ceilings with similar structures, if plasterboard is used to create a flat surface. The main methods of fastening panels are discussed below.

Metal sheathing

In this case, sheets of plasterboard are mounted on a galvanized metal frame. The profiles here are arranged vertically, with a distance of 30 cm, or 4 products per panel. It is convenient to use galvanized profiles as consoles. They are made with tape and resemble the letter P. The panel is installed lengthwise, not across, so it is an ideal base.

If lathing is being done under the panels, a step of no more than 50 cm is required. Thus, for a room with a height of about 250 cm, about 6 rows of profiles will be required. But you don’t need to take less or more, since there is a distance needed from above and below to fasten the lining.

The amount of material for the sheathing is calculated simply - per profile lower frame one hanger will be required.

Wooden sheathing

Wooden sheathing is easier to install than metal sheathing. You just need to make sure that the slats are of equal thickness. The number next to it is also calculated based on the step (no more than 50 cm). The cross-section of the bars can be arbitrary: it depends on whether insulation needs to be installed.

The wooden sheathing is secured with self-tapping screws. The length of the latter depends on the thickness of the bar. It is important to comply with the condition - the screw must reach the metal under the drywall, and it can stay there with the help of threads. The joints of the slats on the profiles must meet.

It is not advisable to mount panels on a wooden frame in rooms with high humidity. The latter can swell and quickly become unusable. High humidity causes the wood to swell, causing the staples to fall out of the slats and not be able to hold the panels.

Fastening the lining to the sheathing

To attach MDF panels to the sheathing (made of wood or metal), you need to use clamps. They are put on the lower chamfer of the tongue and groove and attached to the sheathing. Secure the clamps easier with self-tapping screws, and the structure will hold much stronger. For each clamp you need to prepare one screw, or take two nails.

The lining is mounted with an emphasis on the adjacent wall. From the chamfer side, the lining is fixed through the panel. To do this, screw it closer to the edge with self-tapping screws. To prevent them from spoiling the view, they can be covered with decorative elements after installation is complete.

Adhesive composition

MDF and PVC panels can be attached to drywall using glue. This method is much simpler, since the panels can be attached in any direction. There is no need to level the walls, since the drywall is even from the start. The easiest way to do gluing is with liquid nails.

Glue is applied to the back of the panels along the perimeter and center. Then you will have to wait a little for the composition to be absorbed, and only then the products are applied to the drywall and pressed firmly onto the surface. The panels are attached in turn, each of them must be inserted into the previous one. In this way, the entire base is finished until all elements are secured.

Liquid nails are not always of high quality, so for additional durability you can also use self-tapping screws.

A little about MDF panels

Ceiling finishing MDF panels gain popularity. They come in two varieties:

Laminated ones have a top decorative layer. Cold lamination is used, as a result of which the base becomes more protected from external influences, and the products themselves are easier to clean.

Veneered models contain natural veneer - this is valuable wood. Veneer is a very thin layer of wood obtained by planing. This technology is considered environmentally friendly because it contains no harmful compounds.

Veneer panels are painted. For this they use chemical compositions. The wood becomes durable, more attractive, and easier to clean and clean.

Advantages of MDF panels:

• natural materials, environmental friendliness, safety for the body,
• high strength, stability,
• resistance to the appearance of fungus and other microorganisms,
• opportunity to use different types paints,
• absence of harmful resins, phenol.

Materials required for installation

• soft pencil for marks. Preferably black or gray
• roulette,
• level meter,
• metal scissors,
• hammer drill,
• screwdrivers, screwdrivers,
• the panels themselves,
• baseboards,
• galvanized metal profile,
• pendants,
• connectors.

General instructions for fastening metal frame profiles

The distance from the base of the ceiling should not be increased too much, otherwise the total space of the room will decrease. Optimal distance– 5-6 cm. The location of the wiring should be taken into account.

First, markings are made with a simple pencil, then the initial profiles are attached. For their installation, you can use both dowels and self-tapping screws. It is important to maintain a distance between fasteners of no more than 40 cm.

Installation of ceiling profiles occurs by inserting them into the starting profiles. Ceiling profiles are attached to the suspensions using self-tapping screws.

Along the perimeter of the room should be placed wooden blocks, panels will be attached to them in the future. There must be a distance of 40-50 cm between the bars. Here preparatory work installation is finished.

General fastening rules

If the panels are mounted horizontally, the bars must be installed vertically. Installation of bars must be done using a level.

It is easiest to start fastening from the corner where it is previously attached finish bar. Ceiling plinth must be attached if the structure covers the wall to the ceiling.

The work requires accuracy and precision, so there is no need to rush. This is especially true for marking and installation itself.

There is enough polymer adhesive on the building materials market, but experienced craftsmen It is recommended to use liquid nails and PVA. It's easier and cheaper. The installation method using glue requires caution and endurance, so you need to stock up on time and patience.

Panels that are too long can be shortened using electric jigsaw. You need to pre-drill holes in the panels for lighting. It is not recommended to touch halogen light bulbs with your hands, as this may damage them.

Special videos will help you understand the process, where everything is explained step by step.

Installing MDF panels to the ceiling requires both physical and financial costs. It is important to be precise and careful when working, otherwise everything will have to be redone.

How to attach heavy objects to the wall

Often you have to attach heavy objects to the wall. To successfully solve this problem, it is necessary not only to take into account the base material and the characteristics of the fixing elements, but also to correctly perform the preparatory and installation work.

It’s worth noting right away that only heavy objects can be tilted against solid walls. It is advisable to take this aspect into account during the design of the building. Lungs plasterboard partitions can be good option to separate the kitchen and living room, but only if there is no need to hang cabinets and shelves on one side of the wall, and a TV on the other. The situation is similar with frame structures from chipboard or SIP panels.

In principle, you can hang “weights” on them, but this approach is associated with a lot of nuances. It is necessary to compare the location and load-bearing capacity of the frame, use additional elements To create a frame, use special fixing parts. In addition to the fact that such work is quite problematic, there remains a considerable probability of the entire structure collapsing. And this will not only lead to expenses for repairing or replacing a “fallen off” boiler, TV, or cupboard with dishes. This situation may cause serious injury.

Frame walls and plasterboard partitions should be used as a basis for small mirrors, photo frames, towel hooks, etc. You can hang heavy (up to 50 kg) objects on porous bases made of ceramic block, foam concrete, shell rock, etc., but using special fasteners or reinforcing frame. Almost anything can be hung on brick and concrete walls.

Tools

For hanging heavy objects you will need:

DETECTOR. When planning and preliminary marking, you need to use a special detector that will help detect plastic, metal, and live cables hidden in the wall. The tools differ in the sensitivity of the sensor, that is, the ability to scan the wall to different depths. There is also a gradation according to the type of material that the system recognizes - not all devices are suitable for a comprehensive test; some are designed, for example, only for detecting metal.

PERFORATOR OR IMPACT DRILL. Regular tool, which only has a drilling function, can also be used, but working with it will be more labor-intensive. If we're talking about about brick, then in principle you can limit yourself to a drill. But for concrete walls You will have to additionally use a hand chisel and a hammer, punching a hole from time to time. The hammer drill itself not only rotates the drill, but also performs impact translational movements, so it is excellent for solid, heavy structures.

BITS AND DRILLS. They are selected taking into account the wall material, the diameter of the required hole, and the type of chuck of the drill used. If you drill in lightweight concrete drill for bricks, it will take more effort and time. In addition, the drill tip will quickly wear out, and the rotary hammer motor will work under increased loads.

LEVELS. To hang any object evenly, you must use a level. And this requirement is caused not so much by aesthetic issues, but by a practical component. Firstly, if one corner of the shelf is higher than the other, then a large load will be placed on the place where it is fastened. Secondly, uneven placement, e.g. kitchen hood may cause the engine to become unbalanced and run at an angle.

The simplest and most popular are spirit levels, which help to “level” objects up to 2 m long. If we are talking about long distances, as is the case with shelves kitchen set, then you need to use devices with a laser beam or water levels that work on the principle of communicating vessels.

SCREWDRIVER. If a relatively simple cordless screwdriver is suitable for working with wood and aerated concrete, then for heavy walls you need a powerful screwdriver. When purchasing fasteners, it is better to take a set of replacement bits with you to check whether they fit the selected heads exactly.

USEFUL THINGS. Glasses, gloves, pencil, marker, electrical tape, hammer, pliers, spanners, oilcloth.

An impact drill can handle all materials except concrete and stone. For the latter you need to use a powerful hammer drill
Through the hole in the detector, places that are safe for drilling are marked
To avoid damaging the wall finish, it is better to use a rubber hammer when hammering in dowels.
Most measuring work is carried out at a conventional level, but only laser can provide maximum accuracy.
The more complex the shape of the dowel, the more reliable the fastener will be

Load type
It is important to understand that there are dynamic loads and there are static ones. In the latter case, everything is relatively simple - you need to compare the weight of the same boiler or air conditioner with the load-bearing capacity of the wall and select the appropriate fasteners. For example, a boiler with a capacity of 100 liters requires anchors that can support 150 kg. But for a horizontal bar or parallel bars suspended on a wall, it is not enough to add up the mass of the structure and the weight of the heaviest athlete. If the frame itself weighs 10 kg, and the person exercising on it weighs 90 kg, then general meaning 100 kg does not mean at all that the same anchors are needed for 150 kg. Since the load will not be constant, but jerky (tearing out), it is worth ensuring a greater margin of safety by choosing fasteners with a load-bearing capacity of 200 kg.

The ends of the fastening elements can be made in the form of a cap or hexagon (for simple fixation of the supporting frame), a ring (for fastening a lamp), or a corner (for hanging some parts).

Fasteners

Hanging of structures is carried out using fixing parts, which can be divided into internal and external. The first ones are driven into the wall, the second ones remain completely or partially outside - hanging objects are attached directly to them.

The type of internal sleeve, as well as the diameter and length of the fixing elements, are selected in accordance with the wall material and the weight of the structure (plus margin). To avoid mistakes, you need to use manufacturers' catalogs, which provide calculation tables for each product. However, consultants from construction supermarkets can also solve this problem.
It is enough to provide them with the following information:
– wall material and thickness;
– weight of the suspended structure;
– number of points for fixation.

Despite the fact that the final and exact choice of fasteners depends on the individual situation, general subtypes can be distinguished mounting elements, used for fixing heavy objects on walls made of different materials.

Installation work

When preparing the workplace, you need to create the most convenient conditions so that the drill enters the wall strictly perpendicularly. That is, when making holes, the drill should be at chest level - otherwise it will be difficult to control. To minimize the spread of dust and debris, attach a cardboard with a bag under the drill.

In hollow bricks and aerated concrete, holes for anchors and dowels are made only in the “drilling” mode. In harder walls (for example, made of solid brick), holes are made in the “drilling and chiselling” mode (with a high frequency of light blows). When working with concrete, use the “perforating” mode. In order not to damage the wall finishing material, you need to take into account its type. If it is a tile, then in any case it must be “passed” by simple drilling without impact. Otherwise it may crack.

To prevent the drill from slipping, the “drilling” area must first be nailed or sealed with electrical tape. The spacer sleeve must fit completely into the wall, that is, be recessed deeper than the tile or at least flush with it, but not come out in any way.

Bases covered with plaster require special care. To prevent it from crumbling and cracks, they first also drill with simple drilling. When hammering in a dowel, you need to be careful not to hit the fragile coating with the hammer.

When the hole is ready, dust and pebbles are blown out of it. Then the spacer sleeve is driven in. It is important that it fits tightly and does not “hang out”. Finally, a screw or bolt is tightened, which “expands” the dowel or anchor and makes the fixing element solid and strong.

Drill a hole of suitable diameter; Insert the dowel into the hole;.
We secure the item we need using a self-tapping screw. The dowel is folded into a knot, providing fixation with reverse side This method of fastening is quite simple, but not as reliable as the previous one. Drywall is excellent construction material, allowing you to create

various designs and achieve almost perfectly smooth surfaces. However, at the same time, it is quite fragile and attaching anything to its surface is very problematic. Conventional fastening methods using nails or screws become completely ineffective. Even objects of insignificant weight can tear out any self-tapping screw from drywall, leaving a gaping hole in its place. For plaster walls it is necessary to use plastic dowels No. 6 and self-tapping screws 4.5x40. If the walls are made of plywood and chipboard, the economy panels are attached to 4.5x40 self-tapping screws without dowels. If the walls are uneven or if it is necessary to leave space for electrical wiring, the economy panels can be mounted on a plasterboard profile or vertical bars using 4.5x25 self-tapping screws; 4.5x30 or 4.5x40. Installation of economy panels does not take much time and does not require additional skills, which allows you to use them to design and open a store in the shortest possible time, as well as remove them and install them in another place without the slightest damage to the appearance.

The economy panel is fastened to a surface made of concrete, brick, plasterboard, or wooden beams. Name “Econompanel – registered trademark, owned by Abbott LLC, and therefore counterfeit manufacturers are trying to come up with consonant names for their counterfeits (“economysystem”, “exposystem”, “expopanel”, etc.) and convince buyers of the imaginary advantage of laminated fiberboard or other materials they sell panels at dumping prices to gullible buyers. These so-called “economy panels” are made in small furniture factories in Russia, imported from Poland, China and CIS countries.

If you have already decided to equip your store with economy panels, then it’s time to learn how to choose the right economy panels, ensure their delivery and install them with high quality.

Installation of panels on drywall

It is much easier to install a wooden sheathing, only here you should make sure that all the slats have the same thickness. The number of rows here is calculated according to the same principle as for metal, based on a step of no more than 40-50 cm. But the cross-section of the bars can be chosen arbitrarily - depending on whether insulation needs to be installed below and how thick it will be.

The first lining is installed with an emphasis on the adjacent wall, but if from the tongue side it is supported by clamps, then from the chamfer side it can only be secured through the panel. To do this, it is screwed as close to the edge as possible with self-tapping screws, which are covered with a decorative strip when finishing the cladding. In some cases, there is a need to save space, that is, the lathing will in any case take up several centimeters of the room, but if it is not secured, then this can become a decisive factor when placing furniture or bathrooms. If there is a need to save space, you do not need insulation, and you want to get rid of an additional frame, then use the adhesive fastening method.

Note! In bathrooms and other rooms with high humidity, fastening panels according to wooden frame on staples is highly undesirable. When the wood swells, it will release the staples, and they will simply come out of the slats.

In addition, for plastic lining There is no need to screw through the panel on the chamfer side when installing the first board, but there are two options. The first method is when a herringbone type guide (external or internal) is installed in the corner, where the edge of the board is inserted. The second method involves overlapping last panel on an already lined wall with an L-shaped profile - the guide simply presses it to the base.

How to attach an economy panel to a wall

A caveat: if the panel was previously outdoors during the cold season, then in order to avoid cracking during drilling, allow the sheets to warm up to room temperature indoors. It is advisable to clean the walls, but they do not need special preparation. Mark a horizontal line using a building level. Attach the panel to this line, check for horizontalness.
Using a drill, mark future holes in the grooves through the panel. Then the sheet is removed, the holes are completely drilled. Check the diameter of the drill with the fastener parameters, usually 4.5 mm. If the load on the panel is small, it is enough to make three holes in three grooves (nine in total). For heavy goods, it is better to make three holes in 5 grooves.

Types of fastenings for various types economy panels: For neat and quick installation two people will be required. We remind you that the panel weighs 40 kg and measures 240x120 cm (this is maximum size one panel) it is better not to transport individually, even with a cargo trolley. You will also need a building level, fasteners that came with the panel or separately purchased screws, a drill, a screwdriver, and a pencil for marks.

If you need additional confidence in the reliability of the panel fastening (for example, when uneven wall), then self-tapping screws 4.5x2.5, 4.5x30 or 4.5x40 and a profile for plasterboard (or wooden blocks, chipboard blocks left over from any work) are suitable. Wiring and Internet cables are sometimes hidden behind a panel slightly behind the wall.

Installation of economy panels

• for concrete and brick walls - self-tapping screws 4.5x40 and plastic dowels No. 6;
• for plaster walls - 4.5x40 self-tapping screws, plaster dowels;
• for chipboard, plywood - self-tapping screws 4.5x40, dowels are not required.

If you need to provide free space for electrical wiring or the wall is too uneven, you can use vertical bars or a profile for drywall, onto which the economy panels are already attached using self-tapping screws. The following sizes are suitable: 4.5x40, 4.5x30, 4.5x25. Economy panels are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws through pre-installed drilled holes. Plastic or aluminum inserts are placed with the groove up; to do this, you just need to press on them. To ensure that the entire structure looks like a single monolith after installation, the joints between the individual panels are covered with overlays or inserts.

Economy panel can be easily attached to almost any surface: brick, concrete, wooden beam, drywall, plywood, chipboard. To install it you will need the following tools and materials: Accessories, such as shelf supports, baskets, hooks, hangers, are placed in the grooves of the panels, but care must be taken to permissible load: The distance between accessories is at least 20 cm (with a maximum load of 10 kg)

Fastening heavy objects to drywall: an overview of fasteners and how to use them

The disadvantage of this solution is that it cannot be used on walls that are already in use. That is, the mortgages need to be installed under the sheathing, which is only possible before installing the gypsum plasterboard. An ordinary self-tapping screw for plasterboard, with which the sheets are fixed to the profile, can withstand a long-term load weighing up to 3 kg. That is, by screwing such a screw into the wall, you can hang a mirror, picture or other similar objects on it.

If you tighten several screws and hang an item on several hinges rather than one, you can achieve higher installation strength.

• A hole with a diameter of 13 mm is drilled;
• A dowel with a folded spacer is inserted into the hole;
• The dowel is pulled back so that the spacer part from the inside is pressed against the skin;
• We fix the plastic part with outside covering with a retainer and breaking off the excess;
• We screw in a bolt on which you can attach hanging loops or other hardware adapted for mounting a particular item.

The question is, why do you need mortgages if you can immediately screw long screws into the wall? There is a reason - if you tell the boiler or heating radiator on screws, without placing mortgages under the wall sheathing, the load on the fasteners will be high. As a result, over time, either the fasteners become deformed, or the wall on which the installation was performed becomes unusable. Dowel “umbrella - metal variety The butterfly dowel consists of a bolt and a metal spacer, which, when the bolt is screwed in, opens like an umbrella. At correct installation fastening hardware, the umbrella dowel can withstand up to 35 kg of weight load on each fastener.

With an increase in the number of fastenings, the load on the wall can be increased.

Economy panels gained popularity in the mid-90s. This cheap and mobile retail equipment simply flooded the then retail outlets in Russia. They were and are used in stalls, shops, and expensive boutiques. With the help of panels, literally in one day, you can design retail space and open a store. Below we will tell you about the installation of panels, and now a little about best characteristics and qualities of this commercial equipment.

Why you should choose economy panels as commercial equipment:

• Economical use of retail space.
• Ease of installation (installation).
• Savings in the design and renovation of premises.
• A variety of sizes and colors will give you the opportunity to experiment in the interior.
• A large number of accessories (brackets, shelf holders, hooks, hangers) that are suitable for any product group.
• Fast and easy way create a new outlet.
• Can be combined with other commercial equipment.

Installation of economy panels

Installation and fastening of panels does not require professional skills. They can be installed on concrete, brick, wooden walls, as well as on plasterboard structures. If the wall is uneven or you need to leave space for communications, then such commercial equipment can be mounted on vertical bars.

To install economy panels you will need:
- stepladder;
- building level;
- drill;
- screwdriver;
- rubber hammer;
- self-tapping screws Ø 4.2*40 mm;
- dowels depending on the type of wall.

And so, let's get to work:

1. Install the panel in the selected location against the wall and make preliminary markings for drilling holes in the economy panel. Mark 3 dots in 5 grooves (1st, 6th, 12th, 18th and 23rd).
2. Check the horizon with a building level.
3. Using a Ø 4.2 mm drill, drill the marked holes in the panel grooves, with the end of the drill marking the location for drilling holes in the wall.
4. Remove the econom panel and drill holes in the concrete or brick wall.
5. If the panels are mounted on wooden wall or bars, then screw the panel with self-tapping screws Ø 4.2 * 40 mm directly to the wall through pre-drilled holes.
6. Install dowels suitable for this type of wall and secure the panel with self-tapping screws.
7. When installing the next economy panel, align its grooves in height with those already mounted on the wall.
8. Insert the decorative plastic inserts with the groove facing up by pressing them.
9. After installing the plastic insert into the groove, for a better fit, it needs to be straightened with some object, for example ballpoint pen or Phillips screwdriver, walking along the jaws along the groove, pressing them against the edge of the groove.
10. Next, install the aluminum inserts. Use a rubber mallet for easy installation.
11. Plastic inserts protect the grooves of the panels from chipping, and aluminum ones increase the load-bearing capacity of the panels by more than 2 times.
12. Place the necessary accessories (brackets, shelf holders, hooks, hangers) in the grooves of the panels.
13. Max load with aluminum insert = 20 kg. In this case, the distance between accessories should be about 20

From 3 economy panels you can create a full-fledged shopping area in two hours. It is enough to place goods on brackets and shelves. And now, you can start selling and making money.

Equipment with economy panels trading floor allows you to simultaneously solve several problems:

• Repair and finishing works.
• Interior creation.
• Installation of commercial equipment for demonstration and display of goods.

Big choice commercial equipment that will create a paradise for customers in your store. The sizes and colors of the economy panels will allow you to experiment and create your own distinctive store design. Choose...

Economy panels are becoming more and more popular due to the ease of their installation. Having spent a minimum of time and without having any special skills, you can decorate and prepare a new store for opening, and if necessary, the panels can be easily dismantled, which allows you to reuse them in another place. It is important to remember that economy panels can be damaged during loading, cracks, chips and scratches appear on the surface, so the main rules for transporting them are: at least two people must carry the panels, the size of which is 1200 by 2400 mm.

What is needed for installation

Economy panel can be easily attached to almost any surface: brick, concrete, wooden beams, plasterboard, plywood, chipboard. To install it you will need the following tools and materials:

1. drill;
2. screwdriver;
3. level;
4. self-tapping screws;
5. dowels

How to install economy panels

The walls of the room must be pre-prepared. The economy panels themselves need to be warmed to room temperature before installation. The panel is installed on the wall, then the horizontal position of the upper end is checked using a level, the panel is leveled if necessary, and then holes are made in the grooves of the econom panel using a drill, while it should be pressed tightly against the wall. The diameter of the drill used is 4.5 mm. There must be at least 9 holes in each panel, that is, 3 in the central, upper and lower grooves. If the load on the panel is large, the number of holes should be increased to 15; they are made in 5 grooves. The horizontal panels have half-grooves for alignment, so the installation direction is from bottom to top.

Fasteners are selected according to the surface material:

• for concrete and brick walls - self-tapping screws 4.5x40 and plastic dowels No. 6;
• for plaster walls - 4.5x40 self-tapping screws, plaster dowels;
• for chipboard, plywood - 4.5x40 screws, dowels are not required.

If you need to provide free space for electrical wiring or the wall is too uneven, you can use vertical bars or a profile for drywall, onto which the economy panels are already attached using self-tapping screws. The following sizes are suitable: 4.5x40, 4.5x30, 4.5x25.

Economy panels are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws through pre-drilled holes. Plastic or aluminum inserts are placed with the groove up; to do this, you just need to press on them. To ensure that the entire structure looks like a single monolith after installation, the joints between the individual panels are covered with overlays or inserts.


After installation, each panel should be wiped with a damp cloth. Do not use abrasives.

Accessories, such as shelf supports, baskets, hooks, hangers, are placed in the grooves of the panels, but the permissible load must be monitored: the distance between accessories is at least 20 cm (with a maximum load of 10 kg)

This is not the first time I buy. Everything is civilized, and most importantly the product is of high quality (no defects).
I just recommend.

Pros: Placed an order yesterday (03/04/2020). Due to the workload, it was not possible to wait all day for delivery. I asked the service to come in the morning, as early as possible (if possible). Today (03/05/2020) they called already at 09:00 and warned that in 30 minutes my order would be with me. Very fast! The order was received in full, everything according to the list.

Disadvantages: They didn’t make 1 cut, but most likely because I was in a hurry. No problem, I cut it myself in 1 minute.

The order was delivered quickly, everything was safe and sound. Nothing to complain about!

Advantages: Good discounts for wholesale purchases. Quality is monitored here and agreements are respected. Everything is official and fast. A large selection of retail equipment, thanks to this I was able to choose retail racks without any problems. The purchase was worth more than 70 thousand, so they gave me a discount as a wholesaler.

Disadvantages: no problem

Helped with organizing an outdoor holiday event. I ordered mainly trade tents. The price tag was decent, but that’s why the discount for wholesale was substantial. The main condition was delivery a few days before the start of the event. They responded to the request carefully. On the day of delivery, the car was there on time, payment receipts were handed over with the driver.