What wood is suitable for making a smoking pipe? Master class on making smoking pipes with your own hands (photo) What to make a mouthpiece for a smoking pipe from
Choosing good wood is the key to a good pipe. Type of wood used for tube making, greatly affects its shape and strength, as well as the taste of tobacco smoke. Pipemakers select several types of wood to make modern pipes.
Briard
Briar is a shrub from the genus Ericaarborea, widespread throughout the Mediterranean. Briar is a dense wood and therefore has fire resistance properties. Due to its properties, this material is good choice for the manufacture of smoking pipes. Wood It has absorbent properties, which allows it to absorb moisture from the tobacco leaf without distorting the taste of the smoke. A briar pipe will be durable due to its hard wood and will not lose its shape over time. The color of briar is light brown, but it can be given a number of shades using varnishes and wax.
Morta
Morta is one of the unique types of pipe material. It is an oak whose properties are formed when the tree falls into peat or clay. Due to the inability to rot and decompose ( oxygen deficiency), the wood becomes petrified and turns black. Morta is found everywhere and, depending on the source wood, can be of varying quality. Morta good quality is an excellent material for making pipes, this material is readily available and easy to process. You can leave the morta blank in its rough form, or sand it to give it a more finished look. Since the tree is semi-petrified, it heat resistant and durable.
Cherry tree
Cherry wood is commonly used by carvers in pipes due to its deep red and burgundy color. Thanks to its rigidity, Cherry tree Excellent for tubing, and manufacturers often take this into account when designing the tube shape. When making a cherry tree pipe, the bark can be left intact for a woody appearance. Removing the bark and polishing the wood can highlight the red veins in the wood.
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Smoking with a pipe is one of the first ways to use tobacco. Lighting a pipe was a kind of ritual. Most smokers smoked pipes continuously until the mid-20th century. Nowadays the process of smoking has been simplified due to the advent of cigarettes and cigarettes. But interest in pipes has not disappeared. And even vice versa. And making a pipe became great ideas For home business with a good income!
It's time to admit that a person is losing to smoking. Of course, cigarette consumption may be declining. But smoking hookahs and pipes is not. And what about the “steamers” with their newfangled electronic cigarettes? Smoking is a huge niche that brings enormous profits to multinational corporations. And who will refuse this voluntarily? That’s why smoking, changing and reincarnating, will always be around. Whether we like it or not.
website: No one smokes in our editorial office. And we don't recommend it to you. Although, smoking is a voluntary choice of an adult. But tobacco smoke is harmful to health and can cause chronic diseases. Keep this in mind when making your informed choices.
The key advantage of smoking pipes is that they are not a mass product. Demand is stable, but not too high for large industry to become interested in it. Of course, there are small-scale factory products produced mainly by small Asian enterprises. But such specimens are used only by novice smokers to learn the process of smoking tobacco with a pipe. Later, having gained experience, people who prefer pipes try to find an individual copy that meets their taste preferences. And this is where the home business begins, which can bring a lot of income.
By the way, among regular pipe smokers there were and are such celebrities and famous people— Bob Marley, Johann Bach, Yuri Vizbor, Arkady Gaidar, Joseph Stalin, Stanislav Govorukhin, Vincent Van Gogh, Walt Disney, Sergei Yesenin, Madonna (singer), Nikolai Rastorguev and many others. And even fictional characters have such a passion for smoking pipes - Taras Bulba, Sherlock Holmes, Commissioner Magret, Captain Vrungel, the crocodile Gena and even Carlson. The list is impressive!
It wouldn't hurt to warn you. When thinking about this business, you must have artistic and craft talents. Making a pipe is quite labor-intensive and requires a highly qualified craftsman. Quite a bit of material will be wasted in the process of “getting your hands on” creating pipes. But, it's worth it. A quality pipe is very expensive. Very expensive! We wrote that making a custom pipe is very expensive?
As a rule, a good pipe maker comes to this business through smoking. First he tries the pipe. Then he searches for the ideal among those available, simultaneously understanding the smoking process. Not finding a suitable specimen, the master tries to make a pipe for himself. He can do it. Then he makes gift tubes for his friends, acquaintances and just anyone who wants one. They charge a nominal fee for the tubes - the cost of the material and a little for the work. And only then, increasing the cost of his work, making custom-made smoking pipes becomes his main source of income. Moreover, clients look for him themselves, through the tubes he made. IN modern society, usually via the Internet, finding in in social networks photo of the master's work.
Taking into account the above facts, have you already decided to start smoking? Do not hurry. You may be able to make pipes without developing this bad habit.
The theory of making tubes is widely described on the Internet. Many communities, forums and websites are dedicated to it. There are given standard sizes, standard forms and tube arrangement various types. Technological methods of production and necessary equipment. That is, in essence, the device and inner dimensions the pipes (chamber and shape of the smoking channels) are standard for each type, but the appearance is the master’s imagination. That's what this home business is all about. Appearance and the quality of the pipe is what will help you make money. And smoking will allow you to independently test the manufactured specimens. And you don't have to do it yourself. You might find someone you know who is an avid pipe smoker.
Materials suitable for making a smoking pipe
Such materials can be classified as traditional.
Tree — traditional material for making a tube. The most popular type is briar, which has been used since the 19th century. This is a growth between the root and trunk of the Erica arborescens shrub of the heather family. Cheaper options are pear or beech wood. Sometimes roots are used various trees, for example, cherries. Resinous wood and trees with low heat resistance are not suitable for making pipes.
It would not be amiss to remember mortu (“bog oak”) - fossil oak wood. This material is characterized by high strength and excellent heat resistance.
Meerschaum- porous mineral white, the main deposits are located in Turkey. Tubes made from this mineral are called meerschaum. The bowl of the pipe is usually made from meerschaum. Decorated with intricate carvings. The mouthpiece and shank (connector between the tube chamber and the mouthpiece) are usually made of wood. For more expensive options, the chibouk is also made from foam.
Clay and porcelain. Most cheap option tube manufacturing. Similar to pottery production. Currently, such pipes are usually used as souvenirs, decorative and collectibles. Although there are also working, so-called Turkish pipes.
Also, advanced masters do not stop there and look for various options and combinations of materials - from metal to plastic.
The simplest technology for making smoking pipes from wood
Here we will look at the most simple technology making smoking pipes of a certain size from wood. Simple means that most technological processes are automated or mechanized. The full production cycle is not given, but it is clearly shown that there is nothing complicated about it. To make pipes you will need a certain set of equipment and tools.
- wood lathe;
- turning cutters – roughing, finishing, boring, cutting;
- wooden split clamp;
- wooden pliers;
- vertical drilling machine;
- cutters with a diameter of 10 mm;
- two-stage wood drill with a diameter of 10 and 14 mm;
- hand saw for metal (or part thereof);
- rough rags;
- skins of various grain sizes.
The material for making smoking pipes is the same wood as for making mouthpieces, that is, beech, pear, cherry or briar.
Manufacturing begins with turning the workpiece to the following dimensions: length 62 - 63 mm, diameter 38 - 40 mm.
Remove the workpiece from the lathe and transfer it to a vertical drilling machine for further processing.
Using a detachable device and clamping wooden pliers, install the workpiece on a drilling machine and drill two holes perpendicular to each other: a blind hole for tobacco, 10 mm in diameter, 25 mm in depth, and on the side to connect the tube to the mouthpiece. In this case, a through two-stage hole is drilled in two diameters - 10 and 14 mm, so that the mouthpiece does not “fall” inside the tube when connected.
The workpiece is placed on the lathe for the second time. Bore a blind hole along the entire length to a diameter of 14 - 15 mm, a depth of 25 mm. Then the workpiece is ground from the outside to a diameter of 30 mm. In this case, rearranging the workpiece in the chuck is not allowed, since the alignment of the diameters may be disrupted.
After turning to the above diameter, the workpiece is given the desired shape of the future smoking pipe.
Following this, black marks are made on the tube. They are carried out reverse side hand hacksaw on metal under pressure. Using a rough rag, apply pressure to “black” the end of the workpiece. Grind the workpiece inside and until mirror clean outside. Cut the workpiece from the wood.
Then start making the mouthpiece. Before connecting the tube to the mouthpiece, coat the joint with PVA glue and then lightly hit wooden hammer, on which thick rubber is attached, the mouthpiece is driven into the hole of the tube. In this case, there should be no visible gaps between the tube and the mouthpiece. The finishing of the tube is carried out at the request of the craftsman.
Application double filter, placed in a pipe or mouthpiece, when using a pipe, can reduce the incidence of illness from harmful substances emitted by tobacco products. The best wood for making a mouthpiece is juniper, apple, pear, birch, cherry, acacia, and oak. And good material is a birch cord (a growth on a birch trunk, quite rare, but high-quality material).
The technology for making a mouthpiece is not difficult and serves as good practice for a beginning woodcarver.
The workpiece is clamped in the chuck of a lathe and processed along the end and outer diameter (roughing). Then a drill with a holder (through a threaded hole in the tailstock) is manually drilled into the workpiece through hole diameter 4 mm. In this case, vibration of the drill with the holder is not allowed.
Process the mouthpiece along the contour and draw two or three transverse black stripes with a hacksaw (back side) - indentations for decoration. After this, the mouthpiece is polished to a mirror finish and cut off from the workpiece. Drill a hole with a diameter of 8 mm. To make it easier to hold the mouthpiece when smoking, grind off two chamfers. Cover the mouthpiece with the solution natural drying oil. According to American studies, a significant portion of harmful substances (including nicotine) settles in the mouthpiece when smoking.
The pipe allows you not only to smoke tobacco, but also cigarettes. For this purpose, you can make an insert that is inserted into the pipe while smoking cigarettes. While smoking tobacco, keep the insert from the pipe in place.
The insert is a conical plug with a hole inside for a cigarette. The insert should fit snugly against the walls of the tube and should not allow air to pass through when closing the cigarette hole with your finger.
Profitability of a home business making smoking pipes
The cost of making custom tubes varies from person to person. Therefore, the profitability of this business greatly depends on the capabilities of the master. Good master from quality material makes tubes that cost 11,000...100,000 rubles each. A novice master can count on 2 - 10 thousand rubles per pipe.
You can increase your profits by manufacturing additional accessories - pipe stands, cases, covers, ashtrays, replacement mouthpieces, pipe fillers, tobacco boxes and so on, so on, so on. Smoking tobacco is a long process, surrounded by all sorts of traditions and devices. Having studied the topic well, you can understand that pipe making is only a small part of this entertaining home business.
By the way, for those who have almost completely studied the topic of smoking pipes, a hookah is also considered a pipe for smoking tobacco.
Yeah, I also wanted to feel not only as a consumer, but also as a master. And since it’s too late to plant tobacco, I decided to make a pipe.
I ordered a couple of blanks and a couple of mouthpieces from the St. Petersburg store www.pipeshop.ru. Problems have arisen: the store’s assortment does not match the warehouse, my greenish mouthpieces were not found. The delivery took place through the Moscow www.tabachok.ru, plus my boss accepted the goods, and I was three hundred kilometers away... But as a result, the mouthpieces arrived and were selected (out of a dozen and a half provided) very pleasant.
Further difficulties were purely technical - it was necessary to understand how to make a tube. Well, yes for me after four years ceramics, a year and a half of wood carving and twenty-five years of careful observation of how the world works, it's a matter of a day or two of experimentation.
And this came to me with the goal of becoming a pipe.
Drilling done;)
An unsuccessful experiment - the sharpener burns the tree, but almost does not cut it down.
After I had a blast with the sharpener, I took the skin. I rolled it into a flexible file. And I felt the thrill of a correctly selected instrument...
Almost ready... The 240th skin is not ideal either. I want 360 or 440...
Tube while waxing. The technology is as follows: heat it in the oven, then dip it in melted wax. It looks like this. Then we heat it on an open gas flame (it does not produce soot) and rub in the wax with a cotton rag.
It turns out like this;) And I still have to do a second one...
...but first I'll smoke this one!!!
The workpiece is sawn to fit the design. You NEED to file half a centimeter more freely, and not like me. Draw not only the outline, but also the reserves.
Then the workpiece is subjected to drilling of the bowl and channel. The bowl is drilled with an 18.5 mm drill and bored with emery to 22 mm, otherwise the walls will be uneven, the channel will be 4-5 mm.
There was no chuck for the 18.5 mm drill, so I drill 10 mm and drill it out by hand.
Briar is very difficult to saw, almost like beech, but it doesn’t crack...
The preparation can now be smoked. Now all the work is a cosmetic event.
On a whim, a briar ring with two 16-carat nails was prepared for the wife.
Almost ready, right?
First, unsuccessful attempt at staining the tube. I forgot to dilute the stain.
And here is the result - horror :) I sanded it and re-stained it.
Final product:)
Uh... How should I say this...
We do everything in a simple way, there is no need to be afraid. Briar is also a tree.
We file the blank to fit our thoughts, which we first draw on the blank.
We take a drach (wood file) and shape the workpiece, 3-4 millimeters short of the required dimensions.
We take a sheet of 40-point sandpaper, roll it into a tube and use this soft file to give the final shape to the tube. DON'T HURRY!!!
Next we grind with 160-grit and 240-grit. I want 400, otherwise it’s not completely polished. You have to work with the back side of the skin;) Very not *... Well, see above;)
Then, if desired, we eat it. I like the domestic organic stain - just dilute it 1:10 with solvent 649 or similar and paint it, it dries quickly, about 10 minutes before the next layer, about an hour before waxing.
>HINT: If you wet the pipe, you can see how it will look waxed. She will darken!!!
Waxing. Let's take it beeswax(those who are not particularly show-off are free to take whatever they want;), melt it in a semicircular bowl. At the same time, we heat our pipe in the oven - it will be better absorbed. We are preparing for slight burns on our fingers, however, it is only 80 degrees there. We dip our tube from all sides and let it cool.
Now quickly heat the tube piece by piece over a gas flame and rub in the wax with a cotton rag.
Ready!!!
Yes, now all that remains is to properly smoke our beauty :)
But that's no problem!
As promised, I am publishing an article about making a smoking pipe. I photographed the blank at every stage, but still couldn’t get around to writing text for each photo. It turned out to be a huge job.
UPDATE!!!
The article is already quite outdated, but to write a new one
there's no time :) But there is a more recent video, or rather,
whole movie. It's 2015. As soon as I find the time, I will definitely
I’ll make a new video, and separate videos for different stages
process. So follow the link,
subscribe to the channel:)
This is a ring from . It is prepared in advance. Sometimes you have to spend a whole working day to prepare such rings from different materials with different sizes.
One end of the ring is ground strictly perpendicular to the axis. This side will be facing the bowl. The other side is not ground off - it will be ground off on the spot.
This is what the tusk itself looks like.
In addition to mammoth tusk, I also use other materials: cow horn, elk horn, various types of wood (I love boxwood and bubingo root), acrylic imitations of all kinds of materials. It is curious that a pipe with a mammoth ivory cannot be sent to the United States. To protect rare animals, their laws prohibit the import of products from Ivory, and customs officers cannot distinguish an elephant from a fossil mammoth, which it is already a little too late to protect. Therefore, only acrylic imitation ivory is used on the American market.
On lathe I turned a cylinder at the end of the shank for inner diameter ring. I glued the ring with epoxy glue, then ground off the end and drilled the mortise. It is very important to do this in one installation so that the mortise axis is exactly perpendicular to the end. Otherwise, there would be a gap at the junction of the shank and the mouthpiece.
Precisely because the workpiece cannot be removed from the machine at this stage, rings have to be prepared in advance. The work would be simplified by a second lathe, even the smallest one, but for now there is more necessary equipment, which requires free funds.
If you don’t make a ring, then you can do without a lathe, having only a drilling machine. In this case, the end of the shank is sharpened with a Forstner drill. This is a cutter used for drilling under furniture hinges, For example.
The next stage is drilling the smoke channel. I drill it, feeding the workpiece with my hands onto the drill rotating in the lathe. By resting the rear stock in the right place, I do not allow the drill to go to the side.
To do this, you need to make a hole on the back side of the workpiece. The center of the rear stock will rest in this hole. There is another hole at the bottom of the mortise - the drill will fall into it.
The smoke channel is drilled to desired depth to the expected meeting place with the drilling of the tobacco chamber.
Drill - 4mm. The diameter of the drill is a controversial issue. Most factory manufacturers make the channels narrow, about 3 mm. Danish craftsmen prefer a little wider - 3.5 mm. Most of our craftsmen drill at 4mm. American craftsmen also love wide channels.
A pipe with a wide bore smokes, in my opinion, tastier and drier. The probability of tobacco particles being sucked into the channel slightly increases, but for filterless pipes this is not a problem: the channel can be easily cleaned with a brush without disassembling the pipe. I myself have not encountered this problem, since I smoke mostly coarsely cut tobaccos of the English group. Danish tobaccos are usually cut smaller, which is probably why Danish masters prefer narrower channels.
The hole is drilled just below the center of the bottom of the mortise. In bents, this is necessary so that the brush can easily pass the assembled tube. When sanding the channel, the hole will be slightly bored upward to an oval.
For the next installation on the lathe, I drill the tobacco chamber and sharpen the bowl cylinder. The shape of the tube is not cylindrical at all, and will be drawn out with another tool, but there will be something to start from.
In the background is a drill for a tobacco chamber. This is a perk re-sharpened into a parabola.
The chamber is sharpened until it aligns with the smoke channel. The channel should enter the center of the chamber along the very bottom. A little to the right or left - no a big problem, and within reasonable limits I make such a mistake. A little lower, with a groove along the bottom - not entirely correct, I try not to leave such a groove. A little higher is definitely a marriage. A pipe with an over-drilled bore will not finish smoking until the end and will begin to “sour”, which will spoil the taste.
In this case everything is perfect. The exit of the channel will be even neater after grinding.
It can be seen that the glued corners have worn off and will not become part of the tube.
The next stage is turning the shape. In the background is a sanding disc with Velcro. I install it on a lathe, but you can adapt any motor, or even use a grinder.
Using a lathe for this is not even entirely correct. A turner who loves his machine will never use any abrasives on it. But my machine is already old and not accurate; before me, many generations of students from some vocational school worked on it.
A couple of black dots are visible in the picture - these are sandpits - grains of sand that got into the briar from the ground. These sandpits wear off, but even if they hit the surface of the tube, they are quite acceptable. Smooth tubes without sand pits are sold at a higher price.
First I sharpen the curves of the bowl only on four sides.
Then I roughly draw out the entire form.
If you wet the workpiece, the grains are visible - the natural pattern of the briar. Later I will make these grains contrast with successive sanding and coloring.
The stammel was sanded a little more with coarse sandpaper (150 grit), and a piece of ebonite was cut off for the mouthpiece.
The mouthpiece will be slightly curved, but first it is made straight. Ebonite bends easily when heated, then hardens. But that's later.
On a lathe I turn out the trunnion - the tenon of the mouthpiece to connect with the stammel - the wooden part. The trunnion has the exact diameter to fit snugly in the mortise without getting stuck. And the length is precisely adjusted to the depth of the mortise, so that there is no cavity inside the assembled pipe. To be completely precise, the length of the trunnion is still slightly less than the depth of the mortise, by approximately 0.2 mm. This is necessary due to thermal expansion, so that warm tube no lye formed.
The mouthpiece channel is drilled with three drills: first a little 3.8 mm, then 2.5 almost to the end, then 1.5 mm towards the mouthpiece side.
Then I bore out the mouthpiece slit. The following tools are used for this:
The Dremel drill attachment is needed to sketch out the direction of the gap. Most factory manufacturers and some craftsmen (mostly Italians) stop there. But if you do everything wisely, the slot needs to be bored out with a deep cone deep into the mouthpiece. To do this, I use a piece of an electric jigsaw file.
The third tool is called a cone rimmer. This is a triangular file with a ground notch. In a wide area, the cross-section fits into a circle with a diameter of 4 mm - just under the diameter of the stemmel channel. By rotating this rimmer in the channel, I remove the “steps” between the drills with different drills. The result is a smooth narrowing from 4mm at the entrance to 1.5mm at the mouthpiece. Again, many manufacturers omit this step, and these steps accumulate condensation from the smoke.
Then I roughly sharpen the shape of the mouthpiece with the same grinding disc Velcro. Further - only hand tool: files and sandpapers.
This photo shows a rough outline of the shape of the mouthpiece. I do this with a flat file.
I worked a little more with a file, and then - 150 grit sandpaper on a block like this. I use different blocks: round, rectangular, complex profiles. It will not be possible to grind on your fingers, at least because of the different densities of the materials: briar will fail, mammoth and ebonite will bulge.
I sharpened it some more.
I reached 240 grit. Got it wet. The grains are visible.
The channels of the stem and mouthpiece were sanded with sandpaper on a wooden skewer. On the mouthpiece side - skins folded into a sharp corner. I grind the Stammel channel up to 320 grit - there is no further need. The only task is to get rid of drill marks that make cleaning difficult. I not only grind the mouthpiece channel to 800 grit, but also polish it with paste on a long brush (visible behind the tube).
Then I heat up the mouthpiece construction hairdryer and I bend it. Then I cool it cold water. While there was no hairdryer, I used a simple candle. A hairdryer is more convenient only because it is impossible to accidentally set fire to ebonite.
Sanded with 320 grit sandpaper. I drew the final shape of the mouthpiece. I make the mouthpiece physiological, like a boxing mouth guard.
Starting with 320 grit I color the tube between sandpapers. I'm using black now water stain. After painting, I wash off the remaining stain with a damp cloth.
Here the black painted tube is sanded to 400 grit. As you can see, part of the stain that got on the more porous fibers was absorbed a little deeper and remained after sanding. This is how the contrast of grains appears.
The procedure was repeated with 500 and 600 grit sandpaper.
I apply the main color. This is already an alcohol-soluble stain. Again, the excess stain is washed off with a damp cloth so that the tube does not stain your hands.
I polish the tube with paste on a polishing wheel. The polished mouthpiece shows small grinding marks - I regrind it, bring it to 1500 grit, and polish it again.
I sand off stain stains in the tobacco chamber with sandpaper on a stick like this. I use 150 grit coarse sandpaper. Some craftsmen polish the camera into a mirror, but I think this is not only unnecessary, but also harmful. Soot deposits faster on the rough surface of the chamber.
I mark the tube with stamps. His name is A. Bondarev. Grading A-B-C, A is the highest. And the date of manufacture, in this case 2013-09-13. Traditionally, craftsmen use the Latin alphabet for stamps, but I prefer native Russian letters. Perhaps I will have to temper my patriotism when I enter foreign markets, but for now my pipes are sold only in Russia and the CIS.
I apply carnauba wax to the finished tube, a natural substance that adds gloss to, for example, M&Ms candies. In fact, this is just pre-sale preparation, since the carnauba will wear off over time. I use the same cotton pad to apply the carnauba as I use for buffing.
All that remains is to sew the leather bag, and the tube is ready. There is a drop of black stain left in the chamber - no problem. Light up. I have erased most of the splashes and can no longer rub without distorting the geometry of the camera.