How to remove dampness from the basement. How to get rid of dampness in the basement

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For most summer residents and country residents, dampness in the cellar is a huge problem. The reason for the increase in humidity is considered to be poor-quality thermal or waterproofing. Another reason could be the lack ventilation system.

Whatever the reason, a wet basement is not suitable for storing food. Therefore, moisture needs to be removed and condensation removed. Today we will tell you how to dry the cellar, disinfect it and prepare it for planting the harvest.

How to dry a cellar

For drying, choose a dry sunny day. First of all, we remove all the products and boxes remaining there from the room; we also need to remove the shelves, disassemble the racks and pallets. Next, you need to sweep out all the debris and sand. If there is water, it needs to be pumped out.

All existing structures are cleaned hot water with the addition of soap and baking soda. Next, all parts are treated with lime solution and copper sulfate. This will help get rid of fungus, mold and harmful bacteria. After this, all the parts are left to dry in the sun for several days.

Note: The places where the furniture stood are thoroughly washed to remove dirt and mold. For greater effect, you can use a mixture of salt and sulfuric acid, which is left inside for three hours.

After that we open the doors, that's it ventilation pipes and hatches for drying the room.

How to quickly dry a cellar from dampness with ventilation

There is a certain algorithm for drying underground storage, which depends, first of all, on the presence of ventilation in it. Let's consider how this process occurs in rooms with ventilation systems or openings.

Heating the cellar

If on the street warm weather, but the dampness needs to be removed now and ventilation is not helping, the air needs to be heated. To do this, take an old metal bucket and make holes in the bottom and walls. Then they securely attach it to the cable and pour coals into the bucket. The coals are ignited and a constant combustion is established. A bucket of smoldering coals is lowered onto a cable into the basement and secured so that it hangs above the floor, and the room itself is closed (Figure 1).

The doors need to be opened every 20-30 minutes. But you can’t go inside, as the temperature there is high and accumulation is possible. carbon monoxide. After the coals have burned out, take out the bucket and close the cellar. You can’t look inside for three days; the smoke will kill mold and disinfect the room. In this way you can get rid of dampness in the basement under the garage.

Figure 1. Drying the basement using the heating method

Instead of a bucket of coal, you can use: a potbelly stove (just lower it into the basement and heat it), heat gun high power, propane or kirogas burner. However, it should be borne in mind that these methods are considered quite dangerous and cannot be used alone.

How to dry a cellar from dampness without ventilation

If a ventilation system was not installed during the construction of the basement, it is necessary to install some kind of pipes. They can be installed in the wall or ceiling. You can also purchase a fan with a supply and exhaust mechanism.

After flooding, you first need to pump out the water. Then take everything out and dry it at open doors and hatches and whitewashing with lime. After this, you can use the methods described below.

A cellar without ventilation can be dried using hydrophilic materials:

Slaked lime - destroys fungus and removes moisture. Placed on shelves and along walls.
Dry sawdust helps reduce humidity.
Calcium chloride tends to absorb moisture. You lay it out, assemble it after a day, heat it up and can use it again.
Dry carton boxes used to prevent condensation on the ceiling.

You can purchase special equipment - a household dehumidifier, which can also effectively cope with the problem of high humidity.

Disinfection and control of fungi and mold

After drying, they begin to combat the main problem of underground storage facilities - mold and mildew. There are several for this effective methods, which we will describe below.

Lime vapor

Lime is a quick and inexpensive way get rid of the fungus. It is used to combat fungal colonies and for prevention.

Before starting work, the premises are pre-treated with disinfectin. The drug is diluted in water, then applied to all painted surfaces.

Figure 2. Disinfectant treatment with lime

There are two folk recipes, according to which you can clean the basement from fungus with lime:

Lime mixture with copper sulfate. To do this, take two buckets of water, 1 kg of slaked lime and 100 g of vitriol. Apply using a spray bottle (Figure 2).
Mixture with formaldehyde. For a bucket of water, use 200g of formaldehyde and 500g of bleach. The resulting solution is used to lubricate all surfaces inside the basement. The room should then be dried and ventilated.

Sulfur (smoke) bomb

Sulfur gas vapor is considered an effective method for removing fungus. To use a sulfur bomb, you need to block the air supply to the room, place the bomb in a tin basin and set it on fire. Then quickly exit and close the doors tightly (Figure 3).

Figure 3. Disinfection of the cellar with sulfur bomb vapors

Be careful, as sulfur smoke is dangerous to people and animals. After 12 hours, the room must be thoroughly ventilated and treated with slaked lime.

Mold Remover

There are cases of white fluffy mold appearing. This is a type of fungus. To combat it, use the methods described above, and you can also use a foam remover.

By applying the product to the site where the fungus appears, the mold immediately begins to curl. Subsequently, it does not appear on the treated area.

Floor bedding

If your basement has an earthen floor, you can lay a dense plastic film(this will prevent excess moisture from appearing).

To do this, do wooden gratings and place them on the floor. Scatter pieces of slaked lime over the film. This will help prevent fungi and thus reduce moisture.

How to dry a cellar after a flood

Drying should begin immediately after flooding, as mold forms quickly. First you need to pump out the water in a way accessible to you. Next, take out all the furniture elements. The cover and ventilation hatches should be opened.

When most of the water has been removed, fans can be installed in the cellar and directed at the walls of the room. If possible, you can use a dehumidifier.

The dried-out room should be treated against fungus using copper sulfate or using a ready-made anti-mold product. The walls should be whitewashed with lime. Don't forget to use rubber boots and gloves while drying to prevent electric shock.

A quick and easy way to dry a basement is shown in the video.

How to dry a cellar in a garage from condensation

To get rid of high humidity in the garage you should install good system ventilation:

Install one pipe for inflow, the second for outflow;
Mount one pipe (through the ceiling or wall) with an exhaust fan.

If condensation has already penetrated into the garage, you can use several proven methods for removing moisture:

Spread slaked lime along the perimeter of the walls and on the shelves. This will get rid of fungus and reduce moisture.
Place dry cardboard boxes on the floor. Change as moisture accumulates.
Scatter dry sawdust on the floor and change it when it gets wet.

You can also use dehumidifiers. For this purpose, the device model should be selected with medium power. After the walls have dried, they should be whitewashed with lime.

Carry out preventive drying every spring. After heavy summer and autumn rains, the room should also be dried. If you carry out preventive work, the fungus will not be scary for you.

To get rid of dampness, you need to carry out a series preparatory activities. Understand why it appeared, where the moisture is coming from and how you can fix it. You will learn about all this from our article.

Dampness is a very unpleasant phenomenon that can destroy stored crops. If moisture “settles” in the room, this can lead to destruction of the structure and deterioration in the health of everyone who regularly goes down to the cellar or basement. Read about why dampness “comes to visit” and how to get rid of it as quickly as possible in our material.

Dampness in the house - causes

Condensation forms on ceilings, floors and walls for a number of reasons. The most common causes of dampness are the following factors:

ventilation problems. Errors at the design or construction stage lead to poor ventilation in the room. The most common mistake is the following: poorly laid floor slabs and construction debris block ventilation ducts;

When there is a difference in temperature inside and outside the room, condensation forms on the windows and walls, and this is the first sign that mold will soon appear.

rising groundwater levels. In spring and autumn, when basements and cellars begin to flood due to heavy rains, dampness also increases. Poor drainage leads to water accumulating in underground storage facilities, the humidity level rises sharply, and the room turns into an eternally damp closed system;

capillary penetration of moisture from the soil or through cracks. If the foundation was built in violation of the technology, then after some time due to temperature changes droplets of moisture will appear on its internal walls. Over time, this can lead to partial damage to the walls and even their collapse.

Mold spores can be caused by many dangerous diseases, including cancerous tumors

Why is dampness dangerous?

The appearance of condensation and characteristic bad smell These are just the first signs of impending trouble. Condensation causes the following consequences:

mold and mildew appear; temperature regime and the level of humidity in the room; microorganisms harmful to humans multiply; walls, ceilings and ceilings are constantly waterlogged.

Because of this, the finishing suffers; the destruction of the foundation, walls and ceilings begins.

Concrete surfaces and tiles are most often attacked by mold fungi

How to get rid of dampness

First of all, all summer residents are concerned with the question of how to remove dampness. There are several reliable ways to eliminate dampness in the cellar and basement, but first you need to find out what caused the excess moisture. To do this, carefully inspect the room:

If droplets of water appeared on the walls and ceiling, the reason is a violation of ventilation;
puddles on the floor indicate an increase in groundwater levels;
droplets only on the walls hint at the lack of basement waterproofing.

Now let's look in more detail at ways to eliminate each of the reasons.

How to improve ventilation

If air exchange in a room is poor, the easiest way to improve it is by organizing additional ventilation. Basement ventilation there are two types:

natural - involves the use of the so-called. "vents" - openings around the perimeter of the building. Their total area should be about 1/400 total area buildings; forced - implies the use special equipment, which forcibly pumps in fresh air. Typically used in large rooms.

Installing forced ventilation is an expensive pleasure

To get rid of condensation on the ceiling and walls, you can carry out the following procedures:

Thermal insulation utility networks

sewer pipes

mineral wool

Hood organization

load-bearing elements

different heights

Lowering groundwater levels

If the room is broken into groundwater- This is a serious problem that over time can lead to partial collapse of the building. In this case, you need to carry out a series additional events aimed at strengthening the foundation and pumping out groundwater.

In particular, you will need to do the following:

dig out the foundation;
organize drainage around the perimeter of the building;
strengthen the foundation; arrange external and internal waterproofing;
make a blind area around the perimeter of the building;
dry the room.

Only qualified specialists can carry out the entire range of work on groundwater drainage.

How to get rid of capillary moisture

If moisture forms on the walls of a building, it means that it is coming from external environment, namely, from the soil. You can prevent its access indoors using some of the most popular measures:

use of waterproofing materials- primarily roofing felt, linochrome and waterproofing. They are all made from pieces dense material impregnated with bitumen. The cellar or basement is covered with outside, and from the inside;

protective compounds, which clog the pores in concrete, are also considered an excellent “cure” for capillary moisture;

Thanks to these compositions, it is possible to organize both a targeted effect on the holes through which moisture oozes, and application to all problem areas.

bitumen mastic and polymer resins used for additional protection of walls and floors from condensation. These compounds can be applied independently, but they do not always provide required level protection and it is better to supplement them with waterproofing materials;

shielding used in particularly difficult cases when, simultaneously with capillary action, groundwater appears in the room. Protective shields are made of geotextile, bentonite or clay.

With capillary penetration, moisture from the floor evaporates and settles on the walls

External waterproofing of a basement or cellar

Inspect the structure and check the condition of the slopes, drainpipes, drainage system and blind areas. If you basically do not have a drainage system, then first start by installing drainpipes and slopes. Next, move on to protecting the external walls:

remove the old blind area;
dig a hole about 50 cm wide from outer wall basement;
dry the outer wall;
apply an antifungal composition to it;
coat the wall bitumen mastic, clay or concrete with liquid glass additives;
make a blind area from a sheet of roofing felt - secure it 0.5 m above the ground level and extend it beyond the edges external wall basement;
fill the hole.

External insulation can be supplemented with a drainage system

Internal basement waterproofing

After completing external work, you can also insulate the basement or cellar with inside. This is done like this:

dry the room;
remove all crumbling coatings and whitewash;
find and clear all cracks;
saturate the walls with an antifungal agent;
apply a waterproofing compound;
if desired, plaster the walls at a height of 0.5-1 m from the floor.

Instead of applying plaster, you can treat the walls with a waterproofing compound

Floor work to eliminate dampness

If moisture penetrates the walls, gets onto the floor and evaporates, you should also deal with floor covering. The floor and walls should be concreted using liquid glass and roofing felt.

You can also follow simple algorithm(if you have a clay floor):

remove a layer of clay about 5 cm thick;
level the floor surface and cover it with two layers of waterproofing film;
sprinkle it with clay on top or fill it with concrete and level the surface.

Use only cement-based putties, since their gypsum counterparts actively absorb moisture

When seasonal flooding of the area use another method:

Place a layer of sand or gravel about 10 cm thick on the floor to protect against groundwater flooding. Add more gravel if necessary if groundwater seeps through the drainage layer;
Apply special waterproofing plaster to the walls;
Place glass jars with calcium chloride in the corners of the cellar (it will absorb excess moisture). For one cellar no more than 0.5-1 kg of powder is required;
sprinkle the floor quicklime layer 1 cm - it will absorb excess moisture and dry the room. To combat fungus and mold, you can slak the lime directly in the basement. Pour some lime into an empty container and fill it with water. The released vapors will destroy germs and mold.

During the release of lime vapors, it is better to leave the room. Return there in an hour and immediately organize ventilation for several hours.

Traditional methods of dealing with dampness

You can normalize the humidity level in the cellar using folk remedies:

dry the cellar walls using clay bricks. Place in different angles basement 2-3 bricks heated over a fire. As they cool, they will begin to absorb moisture. To achieve maximum effect, they can be reused; to get rid of mold, treat the walls of the cellar with vinegar or boric acid(dilute 20 ml of acid in 1 liter of water), can be used citric acid(dissolve 100 g of powder in 1 liter of water); remove all products stored there from the basement or cellar and treat the damp walls with diesel fuel, and then whitewash them.

Removing dampness and mold is a rather labor-intensive process. Therefore, you need to take care of organizing drainage and waterproofing in advance, and then deal with high humidity you won't have to. What methods of dealing with dampness do you know?

“My cellar began to cry. There are always drops of water on the ceiling, the wooden hatch is wet through, the carrots and cabbage have long since rotted, the potatoes are still holding up,” writes a FORUMHOUSE member Syava_1.

“Crying” cellar – always a big problem. How to dry it urgently and what to do to no longer encounter increased dampness? We tell you what the participants of our portal do.

For high-quality storage of vegetables, the temperature in the cellar should not be higher than +5 degrees, the air should be clean and fresh, but without drafts.

BogAD FORUMHOUSE Member

The Russian scientist A. T. Bolotov wrote more than two centuries ago that there should be no damp and musty air in the room where vegetables are stored - the vegetables will rot. And at the same time, he notes that there should be no draft, as it will dry out our vegetables.

But you can’t overdry the cellar; there is even data from observations of FORUMHOUSE participants in their cellars, which indicate that excess humidity is not as dangerous for storing vegetables as excess dryness.

Humidity level for optimal storage reserves should be 70-80%.

Having measured the temperature and relative humidity in the cellar with a thermometer and hygrometer, we bring them into accordance with the necessary indicators (recommendations BogAD):

If the cellar is cold (temperature in winter is below +2 0 C), we insulate the basement or roof.
If the cellar is too warm (temperature above +5 0 C), we lower it by isolating the cellar area from heat sources. Provide adequate ventilation and isolate the area from heat sources.
Slight excesses of relative humidity can be corrected by ventilation.
If the relative humidity is significantly exceeded (abundant condensation on the walls and ceiling), we do waterproofing, and then we begin ventilation.
If the air is musty, the ventilation system does not correspond to the area or is missing, we eliminate this omission.
If there are drafts in the cellar, the ventilation system also needs to be modernized; perhaps it will be enough to simply add a damper to the inlet.

Based on the diagnosis that was made to the cellar, a work plan is drawn up. But there are situations when the stored crop needs emergency help, and there are several ways to provide it.

The picture on the left shows a cellar drainage diagram that a FORUMHOUSE member DoctorBo I saw it in some book from Soviet times.

DoctorBo FORUMHOUSE Member

The light bulb heats the air, it rises through the open hatch of the basement.

The right picture shows an improved, modernized scheme, in which the light bulb is located not under the hatch, but under the exhaust pipe. This scheme is better, especially when we are not dealing with a cellar, which is located under the building - then the air does not go into the house, but outside it.

Variants of this method, successfully tested by members of our portal:

A light bulb from the refrigerator is inserted directly into the pipe, 5-7 cm.
If the light bulb does not fit into the pipe.

Glebomater FORUMHOUSE Member

Place a lampshade on the bottom of the pipe, with a light bulb in it. The light bulb lights up, heats the air in the lampshade, and the draft begins to work.

Instead of a light bulb, you can use a candle (to avoid fire hazards, place the candle in tin can). It is better for the spark plug to be as close to the floor as possible, and to improve traction, the exhaust pipe is lengthened by adding a tin link to it.

A burning candle or light bulb accelerates air circulation and intensively ventilates the cellar. The musty atmosphere of the cellar is replaced fresh air, and within a few days the cellar is usually completely dry.

If we use dry alcohol tablets instead of a candle or light bulb, we will get an additional advantage: the combustion products of alcohol have antiseptic properties.

Member FORUMHOUSE topos proposes to bring the science of chemistry into the service of draining the cellar.

topos FORUMHOUSE Member

1 kg of dry calcium chloride takes 1.5 kg of water. Buy 50-100 kg. Loading. Every other day you remove it, dry it (calcinate it) and load it again. Have fun working.

You can also use a good household dehumidifier air (the kind used to drain swimming pools), a heat gun. Or place a regular oil cellar in the center of the cellar - in this case, drying will be carried out due to thermal radiation. But this process is long and expensive (several weeks of continuous operation of the device may be required). Most importantly, without normal ventilation of the cellar, the desired effect with the help of a heater is unlikely to be achieved.

topos

Using an electric heater to circulate air is a stupid thing to do if the soil is damp, the air is humid and there is no ventilation. You will create a regular bathhouse. You need exhaust ventilation with air intake near the basement floor.

To store supplies in the cellar, poor ventilation will be sufficient. Strong ventilation is more likely to cause harm.

Jeeper Moderator-consultant FORUMHOUSE

With strong ventilation you disturb the climate in the cellar - for example, in winter you can cool it down very much, and in summer you can heat it up very much. This promotes the formation of condensation and mold.

However, competent, well-thought-out cellar ventilation is the key successful storage vegetables until next season.

Tocon FORUMHOUSE Member

The ventilation began to work, the cellar stopped crying (before that, one might say, it roared incessantly).

Ventilation in cellars and basements is arranged as follows:

An exhaust pipe is installed on the north side of the basement, which lowers 10-15 cm relative to the ceiling.

A supply pipe is installed on the south side, which should drop to a level of 10-20 cm above the floor.

Typically, pipes are installed diagonally, in opposite corners of the cellar. To avoid the formation of condensation in the cellar in the summer, close the exhaust vents during the warm season, and also make sure that the lid is tightly closed and insulated as much as possible from heat (to do this, you can put a piece of polystyrene foam on it). In the fall, when it becomes more clear outside low temperature than in the cellar, the cellar lid is opened and left open until the temperature reaches about +2 - +3 degrees. Warm wet air the cellar will be replaced by dry and cold air from the street, so during such ventilation the wet cellar usually dries out quickly.

For the winter, with the exception of especially frosty days, only the inlet is closed.

Efh FORUMHOUSE Member

I can advise you to leave one hood open for the winter and insulate the pipe itself well (so that it doesn’t get sucked in by the kurzhak). No inflow, and nothing will freeze.

Some participants in our portal do not have ventilation in the cellar, but condensation does not form in it, since the reasons for the dampness were different - bad and cold walls and floors. Sometimes these shortcomings are easy to eliminate, but sometimes a complete remodeling of the cellar is required.

Dampness in the basement is perceived by many as required condition, but this is misleading. The basement should be cool, but not damp. And if during construction it is possible to foresee and prevent dampness, then in order to remove dampness after the Nth amount of time the basement has been in use, you will have to try. One thing is good: there is nothing impossible in this and nothing is envisaged; all the work is feasible, relatively inexpensive, and all of it is completed fairly quickly.

Why does dampness occur?

Excess moisture in the basement - this phenomenon can occur due to various reasons. The most common of them:

Absorption of moisture by walls or floors.
Insufficient basement ventilation.
The passage of moisture into the room due to cracks in the walls, ceiling or at the junctions of walls and ceilings.

Establishing one or sometimes several causes is like correctly diagnosing a person’s disease. Then the treatment will be successful, and it will take much less time than rushing in too late.

Walls absorb moisture from the ground

If waterproofing was not provided during the construction of the basement, only a large wall thickness will save you. Various materials They have different hygroscopicity, that is, the ability to absorb moisture. For example, brick is more hygroscopic than cinder block.

Two options can serve as salvation: if the humidity is not very high, then improving ventilation will dot the i’s, and if high humidity saves internal waterproofing walls or floor. We'll talk about ventilation in the next section, but now we'll learn how to waterproof walls or floors in basements.

There are few ways:

Construction of new walls
Waterproofing with mastics or waterproof compounds.

Don’t let the first method seem crazy to you. It's pretty old way, which cannot be called ideal, but it is quite considered as an option. The bottom line is to build new walls at a short distance from the old ones - about 2-3 cm. Only with such arrangement it is necessary to think about ventilation from the new space between the walls.

Waterproofing various materials also solves the problem. Bitumen-based mastics are capable of not allowing moisture to pass through. Preliminary cleaning of the walls and forward, you can apply.

Only both methods will prevent moisture from penetrating into the basement, but leave the wall material wet. Sometimes this can lead to the destruction of the brick.

Poor or no ventilation

If there is dampness in the basement and you don’t know what to do, then ventilation will solve the problem and you won’t even have to use the first method. You just need to know how to organize it. For basements, ventilation is generally considered to be of high quality if it is supply and exhaust. In the basement, two pipes leading outside are mounted in opposite corners. Only one pipe is located flush with the ceiling, and the second with its lower edge almost touches the floor. In this case, the air circulation will be continuous and the dampness problem will certainly be solved. There are only two nuances:

Covers on the pipes are a must, otherwise the first thunderstorm will force you to go into the basement in fishing boots.
The diameter of the pipes plays a role. For better circulation you will need a larger pipe diameter, but winter time there is a risk of freezing temperatures in the basement.

Cracks

When the basement is old and even your grandmother does not remember it, but not because of multiple sclerosis, then cracks in it are already a pattern. Carefully sealing such moisture passages is a quick and easy job. Cement-sand mortar, putty or even polyurethane foam for large cracks - these are the most available materials and a simple algorithm of actions.

Instead of a conclusion

Dampness in the basement is unpleasant and undesirable. It’s just better to think about this at the beginning of building a basement than after. But even if this happened, you shouldn’t be too upset, because everything can be solved. Determine the reason and choose a solution. Perhaps you know others effective ways eliminating dampness - then welcome to the comments below.

Dampness in the cellar is a huge problem for most summer residents and country residents. As a rule, humidity increases due to poorly made thermal or waterproofing, as well as due to large quantity vegetables and fruits stored indoors. In some cases, condensation forms due to the lack of a ventilation system. Whatever the reason, a wet cellar is in no way suitable for storing food in it, which will quickly deteriorate if constantly exposed to moisture. That is why moisture needs to be removed and completely get rid of such a phenomenon as condensation. Today we will talk about how to dry the cellar and properly prepare it for planting the harvest.

Carrying out preparatory work

The humidity in the cellar is usually at a fairly high high level, so condensation forms on the walls and ceiling. Preparatory work include completely emptying the premises of vegetables stored there since last year (they are no longer suitable for consumption, so it is best to remove them from storage).

In addition, it is recommended to temporarily get rid of wooden elements of the room (racks, pallets, various bins, boxes, shelves, etc.). All wooden structures You need to take it outside and then wash it with hot water and soapy water. They must be completely dry before further use.

Before dehumidifying the air in the storage facility, all supplies and products should be removed from there.

Quite common and effective method disinfection of wooden storage elements - applying a layer of whitewash with the addition of ordinary copper sulfate. As a rule, ordinary lime is used as whitewash, which can be found for sale in any store. Air humidity and condensation in this case will not affect the wood.

Moreover, to protect wooden elements against mold and mildew, it is necessary to apply to them antiseptic impregnation. You can use any composition sold in the store.

The walls and ceiling of the storage facility can also then be whitewashed and dried. Otherwise, due to increased dampness in the room, it will not be possible to preserve the crop in proper form. In the fall, when it rains continuously, it will not be possible to properly dry the cellar, so all work must be carried out in the summer.

How does the storage dry out?

In order to get rid of excess moisture in the cellar, it's not enough to just open everything ventilation holes and a manhole cover. In the cellar, the air will systematically cool down, and the moisture from it will condense, so it will not be possible to dry the underground room with ordinary ventilation. Air humidity and condensation will not go away even after several days of keeping the storage facility with the hatch open. To dry the cellar before the seasonal harvest, more radical methods should be used.

There are several most common ways to dry a room. Air humidity and condensation are big problem, but with forced drying it’s easy enough to get rid of them.

So, you can remove excess dampness, humidity and condensation in the following ways:

Drying a cellar or vegetable storage using an iron stove.
Drying the basement using a broiler.
Using the most ordinary candles, which will improve natural air draft.
Use of special dehumidifiers.

It should be noted that heating the storage facility using an iron stove is extremely labor-intensive and troublesome, so it is recommended to abandon this method immediately. And not everyone has the opportunity to install such a stove in storage. It is better to use the remaining three methods, since it is important to dry the cellar quickly and without unnecessary hassle.

Quick drying using a broiler

You can remove excess air humidity and condensation from the cellar using the simplest fryer. This is a device Not large sizes(portable) is available in almost any country farm. In any case, you can ask your neighbors.

The fryer quickly heats the air in the room.

Before drying the cellar using a brazier, it is necessary to partially get rid of excess moisture using natural drying within a few days. In this case, the fryer will only “finish off” the remaining dampness, humidity and condensation.

If you haven’t found a suitable device for drying or a roasting pan, then you can make it yourself from the simplest old bucket.

The drying process itself is as follows:

Before starting drying, open all the openings that go into the cellar (manhole, ventilation pipes).
Next, we lower our brazier (bucket) to the bottom of the storage. You can do this yourself or use a rope and hook.
Light a fire in the brazier. It needs to be maintained for some time until the damp air completely leaves the room.
According to the laws of physics, warm and dry air from the bottom of the cellar will begin to gradually rise, displacing damp air into open holes. After some time, the cellar will dry completely.

The principle of drying a basement using a roasting pan from an ordinary bucket.

Before drying the cellar using this method, it is necessary to consider some nuances:

It is recommended to use sawdust and wood chips to light the Dutch oven. Once the fire is hot, you can add larger wood to the roasting pan. It is important that the ignition of the brazier occurs before you lower it to the bottom of the cellar.
The heat from the fire will quickly warm up the room, removing the damp air outside. In turn, dry air will quickly spread throughout the cellar. It is necessary that the entire room is saturated with smoke. This will get rid of any biological activity in the storage, which also negatively affects the storage of vegetables and fruits. The effect of warming the air in this case will last for a long time.

However, condensation in the cellar does not always disappear immediately after drying, so you need to wait a little and, if necessary, repeat the action, and also check the quality of the ventilation system.

Drying the cellar with a candle

If you don't want to bother with a Dutch oven, there is an easier way to keep your cellar dry and free of moisture. For this you will need a very ordinary candle.

The candle must be placed under the exhaust pipe.

A lit candle placed under the exhaust duct will increase air draft and also help get rid of dampness. Drying the cellar with a candle will take much longer than with a brazier, but if you have nowhere to rush, then you can use this method without any problems.

When using the candle drying method, it is necessary to increase the length of the ventilation pipe (supply pipe if two pipes are used). This should definitely be done. Next, a lit candle is installed directly under the inlet of the exhaust pipe. It is best to place the candle in a small container (for example, a jar).

To give a certain impulse, which will become the beginning of air draft, it is necessary to set fire to a paper sheet in the exhaust pipe. Further, the draft will be supported by the candle flame.

It was already noted above that this is a slow drying method and can be used if you have enough time. All work on drying the cellar is best done a few days before harvesting, so that the room has time to warm up, dry out and get rid of all biological activity. Using a lit candle, you can dry the cellar in 3-4 days. During this time you will have to change several spark plugs.

If the cellar is large, then it will not be possible to get rid of dampness and humidity with a candle.

Air dryers

Since it is difficult to dry a large cellar using improvised means, for effective disposal special dehumidifiers are used to remove moisture. These devices allow you to efficiently dry the room, and then maintain the humidity level at a normal level. It is advisable to periodically dry the air in the cellar.

Appearance and operation diagram of the air dryer.

Dehumidifiers are especially relevant for the commercial operation of basements and vegetable stores. Modern dehumidifiers are sold in large construction stores, as well as in specialized departments, so there will be no problems with their purchase. About how to dry a cellar using a dehumidifier, it is best to ask a sales consultant who can recommend a model suitable for your room.

The principle of drying stagnant and damp air in the basement is that moisture always condenses on cold surfaces. The air passing through a conventional dehumidifier is cooled, and the moisture settles in a special receiver, after which it drips into the pan. Dehumidifiers work on the principle of cooling the air rather than heating it (unlike a broiler or candle), so the device will cool the cellar to some extent. However, you can find devices on sale that will heat the air at the outlet to the original temperature.

Modern dehumidifiers operate on the basis of freon (as do refrigerators and air conditioners). Air will be drawn into the dehumidifier using a fan. If your home also has humid air, then a basement dehumidifier is quite suitable for use in other areas of the building.

Which method should you choose?

You can make the cellar absolutely dry and suitable for storing fruits and vegetables using any of the proposed methods. You should choose one method or another based on the total area of your cellar. For example, there is no need to buy an expensive dehumidifier if your cellar area does not exceed 2 square meters. m. In this case, the problem of humidity can be easily solved with the help of a brazier or a candle.

You can put fruits and vegetables into the cellar immediately after all work on drying the room has been completed. It is worth noting that it is not recommended to dry the cellar additionally during operation. This approach will negatively affect the quality of stored vegetables.

To avoid the need to frequently dry the cellar, it is necessary to provide in advance for the presence of a high-quality ventilation system. For small cellars, a design consisting of two pipes (supply and exhaust), located at different heights, is quite suitable. They will ensure continuous air replacement. If the cellar has a large area, then a forced ventilation device is recommended. In addition, if it is the floor of a living space, you will need to make high-quality thermal insulation of the floor. Cold air from the storage facility should not be allowed to affect the microclimate in the house.

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