How to make a homemade bench vice. Carpenter's vice for a workbench: do it yourself

You can make your own vice from scrap materials. For this, screws with a 20 mm thread and a length of 150 mm are used. They can be removed from sports corner. The threads of such screws are designed to withstand significant loads.

Homemade carpentry vices can be made from scrap materials.

Design features

It is recommended to make a carpenter's vice with your own hands using long screws. The distance between the jaws of the tool depends on this indicator. The studs are replaced with other fasteners. To secure the handle in the screw, you will need to make a slot. If necessary, expand the hole with a file.

A homemade tool must be equipped with a screw and a ring. A fixed sponge is made from a board. She is nailed to the table. To make the movable part of the workbench, you will need a board 20 mm thick and 18 mm wide. The length of the sponge should be 50 cm.

To make a hole for the screw, use a feather drill. It is recommended to first adjust it to a diameter of 21 mm. To make a hole for the studs, you will need a drill with a diameter of 10 mm. Screws and studs are inserted into the holes.

To homemade vice short workpieces were processed, the studs were rearranged. 2 additional holes are made in the board. To work with long boards make drilling machine with long screws.

Application of pressed nuts

Carpentry tools with a pressed nut are made from metal staples. To prevent the key from breaking off the nut when clamping the workpiece, it must be pressed in. To do this, you will need to heat the key jaws over a fire.

Carpentry tools can be made from shock absorbers and M18 nuts. Holes are made in the corners of 1 elements. To fix them together, bolts with a countersunk head are used. For self-made The following materials can be used for the vice:

• metallic profile;
• hairpin;
• nuts;
• welding;
• corners.

First, 2 sections are cut from the profile. The third strip is cut lengthwise at an angle. The bottom is cut out of a long strip using magnetic corners. The blanks are tried on and cleaned to ensure good adhesion. welding machine. The vice support is leveled magnetic corners. The next stage involves welding the last elements and support. To give the tool greater strength, metal strips are used.

Additional work

Diagram of a carpenter's vice.

The front lip of the vise is then welded to the guide. It is first placed with the cutout facing down. The next step is to manufacture the frame. A metal strip is welded to the last element. Its tasks include limiting the travel of the guide and holding the threaded fastener.

The nuts are welded to the frame. The stud is screwed in first. The hole for the rod is marked and drilled in the plate. The last part is welded on. Steel fastener screwed to the frame. The nut is screwed onto the 1st element.

The rod is inserted onto the frame so that the pin passes through the hole. 2 nuts are screwed on top. The pipe is passed through it. Excess pieces of metal tape are cut off. The rear lip is welded to the workpiece and to the bed. If necessary homemade instrument paint. To do this, you will need to clean them with a felt circle, the rod is lubricated with a special lubricant. The vice is being assembled.

Conclusion on the topic

At home, you can make metalworking and carpentry vices. To make 2 tools, use water and gas pipes. It is necessary to select pipes with different diameters. A product with a smaller diameter is inserted into a larger analogue and fixed by electric welding.

The smaller product is equipped with a flange with an M18 nut. The threaded rod is inserted into the small pipe so that the pre-fixed nut rests against the flange with a large hole. Other fastener screws onto the protruding end of the pin. A welding machine is used to fix the 1st element.

The end of the threaded rod is screwed into the nut of a pipe with a large diameter. The next step is to install the pressure plate and support plate on the vice. The jaws are made from a square pipe, and the paws are made from a corner.

For ease of use, a nut is welded to the protruding end of the stud. In this case, the possibility of installing a metal rod in it is taken into account. This technology will allow you to rotate the axis while easily controlling the vice.

Homemade vices may have some negative characteristics:

• simultaneous rotation of the inner pipe with the pin;
• the pipe must be in the appropriate position (this will require installing a clamp).

When making a homemade vice from 2 scraps in the shape of squares, you should adhere to the technology described above.

Having made this vice for my carpentry workbench, you can pin wooden blanks thickness of at least 150 mm. The simplicity of the design allows you to repeat the project yourself, with minimal welding and carpentry skills.

Appearance of a carpenter's vice without wooden jaws.

Tools and materials

To process steel elements of a carpentry vice you will need:

1. Bulgarian.
2. Brush attachment.
3. Metal disc.
4. Welding inverter.
5. Electrodes.
6. Drill and drill bits.

To make wooden parts you need a power saw, a plane and a sander.

Pick two steel pipes round or square cross-section so that one pipe fits tightly into the other. Use a threaded rod with a diameter of 12–18 mm as a lead screw. Prepare corners for the ties, the walls of which should be 2 times wider than the hole drilled for the screw.

Red dots mark lubrication points.

A table of significant details and dimensions of the metal part of the carpentry vice that explains the drawing.

Making a carpenter's vice for a workbench with your own hands

Cut the parts with a grinder and make grooves at the ends of the corners to fit the square profile pipe. Select suitable washers and bushings for the clamping assembly, the internal diameter of which must match the caliber of the threaded rod.

Secure the ties with clamps and weld them to one profile pipe.

Install the second guide strictly parallel to the first and weld the parts.

Attention: even if you are not a professional welder, you will have to try and make welds that provide sufficient structural rigidity.

Treat the top plane grinding disc, removing all protrusions.

Insert the movable guides, align their ends and press the corner tie to them. Secure the parts by welding.

Install the vertical corners and weld them.

Drill holes for the screw in the middle of the corners. When marking their location, keep in mind that the rod must lie in the tie of the moving part so that the thrust washer can rotate.

Secure running nut welding Assemble the clamping unit: first weld the collar to the bushing stud.

Now install the movable bushing and weld the thrust washer. To maintain the gap, insert a strip of thin tin under the corner.

Take care of the collar. If you use a half-inch pipe for it, then the nuts at the ends can be welded or secured to the threads and then cored.

Make mounting holes and clean the surfaces from scale and rust.

Coat the carpenter's vice with primer and paint.

Start making the wooden elements of a carpenter's vice.

Drawing of the wooden parts of a carpenter's vice: 1 – small fixed jaw; 2 – large movable sponge; 3 – support bar.

Prepare planed planks 22 mm thick from hard wood: make an allowance for the length of 15–20 mm, for the width of 3–4 mm, and for the movable jaw blanks, use 85 mm instead of 80 mm. Saw the support block straight to size from pine.

Glue two pieces together.

After the glue has dried, cut the parts to a length of 320 mm.

Sharpen the stationary jaw to a fine finish and sand the front side. Secure the wooden parts to the corners with screws through the auxiliary holes.

Place the vise on the workbench, aligning the stationary jaw with the end of the tabletop. Secure with clamps and mark the drilling points.

After removing the fiberboard from the workbench cover, drill holes for the mounting bolts.

Make recesses in the tabletop for the hats with a feather drill.

Secure the vice with bolts with a diameter of at least 10 mm.

Sharpen the movable jaw to thickness and cut a groove for the weld.

Place the jaw in the vise and mark its exact height.

Remove excess wood with a plane and install the part in place.

Apply finishing compound to wooden elements, lubricate the rubbing parts of the clamping unit and the running nut.

The considered design of a carpenter's vice is both simple and reliable. Make this clamping device for your home workshop.

It is unlikely that in a home workshop there will be more required device than a bench vise. Even if you mainly work with wood, sometimes you won't be able to do without a vice. And if you don’t have a workshop, a garage or a corner in your apartment where you can repair simple household utensils, having a small benchtop bench vise can be a great help in many situations, turning kitchen table or even a stool for a mini-workshop.

First of all, about the purpose. The purpose of a vice is to securely fasten and hold a part or workpiece during processing. various instruments. Depending on what objects primarily need to be secured in a vice and what tools will be used to work with them, they vary design parameters vice. But the most universal and most common look like this:

The basis of any vice is a screw pair. In most cases, the screw is fixed in the movable part of the vice body, and the nut is fixed in the stationary part, which is either directly or through swivel mechanism attached to mechanic's workbench or a special stand that ensures the immobility of the vice during any operations with the part fixed in it.

Types of bench vices

In addition to reliable support, you must clearly understand what types of work you will be doing and relate the choice of bench vise to them. First of all, this concerns the material of the case. In the post-Soviet space, it is often cast iron.

This material is hard, wear-resistant, but quite fragile. Therefore, if you are not going to bend thick steel workpieces with a sledgehammer without seriously preheating them, then feel free to take such a vice, and if you do, then it’s better to look for a steel one.

If you need to regularly fasten cylindrical workpieces in such a table vise, then it is advisable to make a jaw cover with a triangular cutout. And if such operations are quite frequent, then we advise you to consider options for the design of a bench vice that are somewhat different from the standard ones.

In general, if we talk about the functionality of a bench vice, then first of all you should think about the size. If you know for sure that you will not have to work with large parts, then do not pay for extra metal, and perhaps even consider a compact machine vice.

Or vice versa - it is possible to work with large-sized parts, but without special effort when processing them. Then you can consider the option of a vice with the ability to pre-expand the jaws without using a lead screw.

If you don’t have a workbench, and also in the list of works more operations, which do not require the application of brute physical force to the workpieces, then the option with a table vice, secured using various clamps, is yours.

True, the latter are mini-tits, it is better to have them on the farm as additional ones. Large parts You can’t clamp it in them, and you can’t put any serious effort into the workpiece being processed - there’s not enough pressure on the clamp to hold the vices themselves, but making a key for a lock based on a sample is just the thing.

In addition, such vices are sometimes indispensable if you need to unscrew a stuck nut, when you can use them as hand tools. Despite their miniature size, their jaw pressure is very good.

It is also worth mentioning a small vice on a ball joint, which serves for the convenience of processing very small parts of complex configurations, allowing for processing various surfaces parts from one fastening.

It is clear that the clamping force of the ball joint is not enough for serious physical exercise, so such a vice is suitable for quite specific types works The same, in our opinion not very serious, will be vices with fastening using a suction cup.

To secure them more or less securely, you need either a well-polished surface or glass. It is unlikely that they will be securely attached to other surfaces. And their functionality is also limited.

For all types of bench vices, you will obviously need additional pads to secure parts made from soft materials.

Some table vices have a pneumatic drive, which greatly facilitates the process of securing the workpiece.

But if you don’t have a mini plumbing workshop at home, then you are unlikely to need such a vice.

What else is important to know when choosing a bench vise? There are quite a lot of complaints from users about Chinese vices with cast iron bodies, equipped with clamps for fastening - they often break off, so if you want a cheap vice from the Middle Kingdom, it is better to choose one made of steel.

Choose a vice that has the least amount of play between the body parts when the jaws are set as far apart as possible. Also, if you do not need a rotating mechanism at the base of the vice for work, choose a model without it: you will save money and the structure is more rigid.

How to make a bench vise with your own hands

The question arises: why, with such an abundance of sizes, shapes and configurations of bench vices offered by the retail chain, bother with them? independent execution. When making a bench vice with your own hands, you can save up to 10 times in cost, and also make a device with the specified parameters.

And this is absolutely real, because almost everything that can be useful for making a table vice can be found at scrap metal collection points for mere pennies.

This is especially noticeable in the photograph, in which parts of a plumbing pipe valve with a flywheel are used as a screw pair.

You can also take a screw pair from an old vertical jack. Even if part of the thread has already worn slightly, then, as a rule, this small area from the edge of the screw, which will still need to be trimmed to shorten it. The lead screws of old lathes, screw presses, etc. are also very durable.

At worst, for very little money you can order a turner at the nearest vocational school such a pair with a wide nut, with a regular metric thread. Just make the diameter larger and the nut wider. In this case, the clamping force will be redistributed over a sufficiently large area due to the diameter of the screw and the number of turns.

As a last resort, just buy a stud with a larger diameter from a store that sells hardware, and a tall nut for it, or 3 regular ones, which you then weld in series, screwed onto the stud.

The classic version of a homemade bench vise

The photograph clearly shows the steel parts, which can almost always be picked up without much difficulty at the nearest metal shop:

• steel plate 200 x 200, thickness 3 – 6 mm (thicker is possible);
• 2 channels (120 mm - external, 100 mm - internal) with a length of 160 mm and 300 mm, respectively; in your case, the dimensions may be different depending on the length of the lead screw;
• steel ears from some large container;
• 2 worn turning tools;
• rod for the wrench, in in this case piece of reinforcement;
• a screw or pin corresponding to the diameter of the rod, and 2 nuts;
• 2 washers, with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the lead screw;
• screw pair - any of those described (in this case - ordered by a turner), 335 mm long;
• powerful plate for fastening the lead screw.

The lead screw on both sides of the plate is separated by washers, one of which, on the side of the threaded part, is welded to it, although with this diameter it can be secured with a cotter pin or retaining ring. Then this unit will be completely dismountable, which is clearly better for reasons of maintainability.

The handle on one side is sealed with a welded nut, and on the other side it is made collapsible after welding the thread from a screw of the appropriate diameter to it.

The nut from the screw pair is welded to the base plate flush with the 120 channel.

For normal fit of the inner channel with the lead screw attached to it, its ribs need to be lightly processed with a file.

The ears with jaws welded to them, made from cut turning tools, must be positioned with the lead screw screwed in. This way they will take the exact place. You can even twist the jaws together with soft wire, ensuring their ideal position.

You can also first apply a notch to them using an angle grinder with a metal cutting disc.

Due to this type of fastening of the jaws, namely the shape of the hooks and the distance between them, non-standard parts that are widened towards the bottom can be fastened in such a vice.

And the maximum thickness of workpieces processed in these vices is quite impressive. And there is no need to talk about the maintainability of such equipment - you can see for yourself.

Dear readers, if you have any questions, please ask them using the form below. We will be glad to communicate with you;)

If necessary, it is not difficult to make a suitable vice with your own hands. The point is not only that the tools offered by manufacturers are expensive, bulky and heavy: they often do not meet the needs of a home craftsman. This is especially true when you need high accuracy parts, strict parallelism or perpendicularity of their surfaces, the ability to easily move the vice from one place to another, etc.

Figure 1. Mechanic's vice V. Legostaev.

It is very difficult, and often simply impossible, to accurately drill holes and process workpieces efficiently, holding them with your hands or pliers. Need a bench vise. Convenient operation with wooden products, wood carving is impossible without a carpenter's vice. Both of them do not have to be bought in a store - if you have the appropriate skills, they are not difficult to make yourself.

Homemade bench vise

This simple, lightweight, but at the same time very effective design was developed by the famous home craftsman V. Legostaev. The operation of the proposed model is based on the fact that water and gas pipes are produced in such a way that the sample given diameter fit tightly into the product of the next standard size.

In Fig. 1 shows its device. The individual structural elements are indicated there by the following numbers:

1. The inner (moving) part of the vice is a section of water pipe.
2. The outer (fixed) part of the vice is a piece of pipe of the following standard size.
3. Running nut (M16).
4. Lead screw (M16).
5. Collar.
6. Front support.
7. Rear support.
8. Pressing jaws are pieces of rectangular pipe.
9. Fixing nut (M16).

A flange with a nut having an M16 thread (3) is welded to the end of the pipe section (2), which is the outer, stationary part of the vice. Same flange with nut bigger size(M18) is welded to the end of a pipe section (1), which is the inner (moving) part of the vice. This nut on the inner surface of the flange serves as a kind of bearing for the stud (4) with M16 thread.

Metal vice design elements.

A locking nut (9) is screwed onto the left end of the threaded rod and fixed in this position by welding. Washers are installed between these nuts and the flange to reduce friction. The right, long end of the stud screws into the nut of the large (outer) pipe. A thick washer or nut of suitable size is welded to the left end of the stud, into the hole of which a knob (5) is inserted. With it, you can conveniently rotate the axis to control the vice. As a result, the main working unit of the proposed design will be obtained.

Jaws (8), made from sections of rectangular pipes, are attached to the inner and outer pipes by welding. To obtain a completed design on outer pipe supports are attached (6 and 7). They can be made from metal angle and rectangular pipes. Homemade vice is ready.

In order to inner tube did not rotate, you can make a longitudinal slot in the outer one and screw it into inner part fixing screw. This will not be necessary if you use sections of two similar-sized pipes of square or rectangular cross-section as the external and internal parts of the main assembly.

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Homemade carpentry vice

In a home workshop for a workbench on which you can process wooden crafts, there is always a place. Doing this by laying the workpieces on a workbench or securing them with clamps is not always convenient, and sometimes even impossible. This is especially true for processing the ends of workpieces, since metal spoils the surface of wooden parts, leaving marks on them.

Figure 2. Homemade carpentry vice made from timber.

This means that you can’t do without a carpenter’s vice, and in order not to waste money, you can also make them yourself. An example of such a design is shown in Fig. 2. The body (1) is usually attached to the workbench tabletop, and the movable plate (2) moves along guides (3). The movable plate moves due to the rotation of the screw pin (4), which is screwed into a fixed nut fixed to the back side vice bodies.

A carpenter's vice is attached to the workbench with long screws or bolts and nuts. Overlays - wooden, plastic or metal - can be attached to the jaws of the vice. Without them, workpieces may be damaged during processing. This is especially important when working with soft woods.

One of the main components is a screw pin (4) with an M20 thread. You can order it from a workshop or look for it in a sports store. The longer it is, the wider the sponges can be spread. With a cutting length of 15 cm, they can be separated by a distance of about 8 cm. To attach the handle, a hole of a suitable diameter is drilled at the end of the screw. You can try to find blanks for making guides (3) in a hardware store among the fasteners or at a flea market.

Sponges (1 and 2) are made from two pine boards. A hole is drilled in each of them for a screw and guides. For accuracy, before drilling them, it is better to connect the boards, for example, with nails, which are then carefully removed. For processing long workpieces, you can make a vise with longer jaws and two clamping screws.

Thus, making a bench or carpenter's vice with your own hands at home is really not difficult.

And having become acquainted with the principle of operation and structure of the proposed clamping devices, it is quite possible to develop your own design.

If you have to change your workplace, you can equip each of them with a personal homemade, hand-made vice. Their design, like everything ingenious, lies on the surface and is simple but very effective, like much of what the famous one offers House master V.Legostaev.

Any self-respecting DIYer has a vice. However, a real full-fledged tool today is not only expensive, a good vice is also bulky and heavy. My workshop is actually the entire site: I have to work in different places, and a vice is needed very often. It turns out that you have to drag a heavy tool every time or run back and forth all the time to process parts.

Vise=Two pipes

It is known that gas and water pipes They are produced in such a way that any pipe must fit tightly inside a pipe of the next standard size. Taking this into account, I decided to take two pieces of pipe of two adjacent sizes. Inserted it into a large pipe and attached it to one of the ends using electric welding.

flange with nut large diameter- M16. On smaller pipe Using the same electric welding, I installed a similar flange with a nut, but of a larger size - M18. The M16 threaded rod in such a hole should rotate smoothly.

It was to this stud that I installed a nut at a short distance from the end, which was securely secured using electric welding. After this, I inserted a threaded rod into the cavity small pipe so that the fixed nut is inside the pipe and rests against the flange with a large hole. I screwed another nut onto the protruding end of the stud and also secured it by welding. Between the flange and the nuts, I pre-installed intermediate sliding washers. Now screw the end of the threaded rod that sticks out enough from the pipe into the nut of the large pipe. The result is the main working element of the vice. All that remained was to install the pressure plates (jaws) and support plates (paws) on the vice. I made the jaws from a square pipe, and the paws from a corner. And the vice is ready!

For ease of maintenance, I welded a nut to the protruding end of the threaded rod in such a way that, by inserting any rod into it, it was possible to easily rotate the axis and control the vice.

Homemade vices have disadvantages

When working on such a vise, the inner tube may rotate behind the pin, but this does not bother me at all. You just need to hold this pipe in the desired position when fixing it. And it’s not difficult to eliminate this drawback - just install the lock.

It’s even easier to make a vice from two scraps of similar size square pipes. All technology remains the same.

DIY vice - photo

DIY vice: drawing

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