How to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands with drawings. Do-it-yourself workbench: carpentry, plumbing, for the garage - drawings, manufacturing Do-it-yourself workbench for a summer residence, drawings

When serious home renovations are underway, it is necessary that everything be at hand at any time, which will allow maximum benefit use time. To do this, it is important to properly organize workplace a home craftsman, if he is used to doing everything with his own hands. During renovation or construction, woodwork takes a significant place. However, sawing timber on a stool or bench is inconvenient and time-consuming. A desktop, also known as a workbench, will help you use time and resources rationally. You can do it at home.

For most men, the garage is both a “home” for the car, a storage room and a workshop at the same time.

Not every owner believes that a workbench is constantly needed on the farm: it is needed only for the period of repair or reconstruction of the building, so he prefers to rent it. But such an opinion is erroneous, especially if he is the owner of a household located on the ground. Appeared on the farm carpentry workbench will be a real help for him. Having made such a design, the owner receives a number of advantages compared to using a workbench rented or purchased at a construction supermarket.

1. He will save a significant amount of money, which he can use for further improvement of the house.
2. Will acquire additional management experience and practical skills.
3. You will have at your disposal a comfortable work table suitable for processing parts made of wood and metal.
4. If the owner makes a workbench with his own hands, he can use it at any time.

Therefore, in one room (it’s good if there is a basement) it is necessary to place shelving and a workplace.

Types of tables

Known different kinds workbenches that have different purposes.

1. Carpentry workbench for manufacturing wooden parts. It is convenient to handle small wooden crafts, but is not intended for primary wood processing. It will require a tabletop three meters long and one meter wide. The parts on it are secured with wooden horizontal and vertical clamps.
2. The carpenter's jig is significantly larger in all respects and heavier. Tree trunks are processed on it, boards, beams and other wood blanks are cut.
3. The universal table allows you to work with wood and metal; its tabletop is reinforced with metal tape and has wooden and metal clamps.

There is a table for carrying out metalwork and car maintenance in almost every garage.

There is another definition of types of structures according to possible place location.

1. Mobile (portable). Used to perform minor works with small parts. It is comfortable and quite light. It can be moved from one place to another without much difficulty. Staffing carpenter's table a small or medium-sized vice, which allows it to be used for minor metalwork work.
2. The stationary desktop is massive and stable. You can use it to process lumber, but a home craftsman will hardly need such a workbench unless he constantly engages in woodworking.
3. Prefabricated with connections using bolts. This is a kind of transformer: it can be supplemented at any time special equipment and make the necessary changes, depending on the tasks being solved.

And as a rule, it is homemade, that is, it is made taking into account the characteristics of a particular room.

What type of construction will you choose? House master, directly depends on what goals and objectives he sets:

• a work table is needed for processing small parts and manufacturing small products only for the period of repair and construction work;
• the owner will constantly use it and work with small volumes of wooden parts;
• a workbench will be needed to carry out primary processing of wood, turning it into boards and timber on an ongoing basis;
• the table is intended to be used for periodic processing of small wooden and metal parts.

The shape and dimensions are determined by the configuration of the room.

Experienced home craftsmen claim that even a novice owner who has no skills in handling metalwork tools can make the product.

A workbench for a garage is often compared to a desk because it provides the convenience of carrying out a variety of work and allows you to do everything necessary tools keep on hand.

Material selection

To make a workbench with your own hands, a craftsman needs wood and metal. If you intend to make small table, then a wooden base will be suitable for it. Suitable for table top laminated chipboard, pressed plywood with a thickness of at least 5 - 7 cm. For stationary table You can use well-planed boards, tightly fitted to each other, and partially metal.

In addition to the tabletop, it has a large number of shelves and drawers.

And if the home craftsman has at his disposal an unnecessary desk, then it will become a good basis. It is also convenient because it already has several drawers or compartments for storing tools.

The driver's workplace must be strong and stable.

Will find application in design old door made from whole cloth. It will make a wonderful, durable tabletop that doesn’t even require processing.

Under the table there must be cabinets with tools and consumables(drills, hacksaw blades, rags, etc.).

Using available materials on the farm for production carpenter's table DIY will save the home craftsman time and money.

It is irrational to make a monolithic cabinet out of a table; you need somewhere to put your feet during sedentary work.

You can make your own workbench out of metal. It will be strong, reliable and heavy. But experience shows that the most acceptable is an intermediate option, when the frame and cover of the workbench are made of wood and then covered with sheet metal.

However, both sides must be if not complete sets drawers, then at least a set of shelves.

A home craftsman who decides to make a workbench with his own hands will need a certain set of materials. He knows well what is needed for this.

The workbench in the garage should not be part of the rack, therefore, the wall above it is a place for hanging storage tool.

And for those who do not yet have sufficient experience, we have compiled a list of everything necessary for its manufacture:

• metal corner;
• steel strip and galvanized iron sheet;
• plywood;
• screws;
• anchor bolts;
• square pipe;
• wooden boards ;
• metal screws;
• dye.

Both metal and wooden workbench have the right to life.

What tools will you need?

A self-made small wooden carpentry workbench will take its rightful place in a home workshop. To do it you don't need large quantity tools.

You can always put a piece of plywood or hardboard on a steel sheet, and a galvanized sheet on a wooden surface.

You will need a standard set that can be found in every home:

• screwdriver;
• roulette;
• Bulgarian;
• jigsaw or hand saw;
• hammer.

First of all, we determine the ergonomics of the workplace.

Depending on what material will be used for the carpentry workbench, the list of materials and tools may vary. For example, to make a metal work table, you cannot do without a welding machine and electrodes.

The height of the workbench should be such that you don’t have to bend your back and, at the same time, stand on tiptoes.

Where to put it?

Before starting work, it is important to immediately determine what and how often the table will be used and where it will be placed. You can’t do without a drawing. The answers to these questions will determine its size, material and manufacturing procedure.

The best place to place the device can be considered that part of the room (garage or shed) where there is natural light. It is also important that there are electrical sockets to connect power tools and lamp. It is best if the light falls from the left or directly, then the working surface of the table will be illuminated during the day.

Design the dimensions of your work area.

Then the parameters of the future design are determined. Despite the existing standards regarding the size of the table, if you make a carpentry workbench with your own hands, the home craftsman will proceed from the expediency and actually available space, so the tabletop will be such that tools and parts can be freely placed here, without strict adherence to dimensions. The width is usually 50-60 cm; this size is considered optimal, as it allows you to freely reach the opposite edge of the tabletop.

The typical vertical table size is in the range of 850-950 mm.

Another important parameter– height of the workbench. Exist various ways its definitions, ranging from precise mathematical calculations to people's experience, suggesting that the optimal indicator be considered the distance from the extreme point of the arm bent at the elbow to the floor. Experienced master can make it adjustable.

A perforated metal sheet is ideal as a wall for placing tools.

After determining the basic parameters of the product, you can begin assembly.

1. First, the legs are fixed (four supports made of steel angles, which are also connected by angles and secured by welding at the top and bottom.). The result is a rectangular welded structure.
2. After making the frame, they begin to prepare the tabletop. Boards cut to size are laid out on top of the frame and fastened tightly together. The tabletop is connected to the frame using bolts. Working surface must be processed: planed and sanded. The bottom must be secured with crossbars or wooden blocks. They are screwed to each of the elements of the resulting shield.

After securing it, you need to cover the lid with metal (it is better if it is galvanized). The metal sheet is fixed to the surface of the tabletop with self-tapping screws. If burrs form, they must be cleaned off.

The workpieces should be cut before welding begins.

The main work on making the workbench is completed here, but to give greater rigidity to the structure and attach it to the floor, you can weld metal corners from below. If desired, it can be equipped with drawers and shelves for tools.

We reinforce all welded joints with a corner or steel strip.

From necessary equipment There must be a place for a vice on the workbench. They are hung on the front side of the tabletop and are used for fastening products. If you often work on large parts, there is a need to install several vices of different sizes.

The main thing is to strengthen all 90° connections.

Under the workbench you can mount shelves where you can place various devices, the right tool or stack processed parts.

Be sure to impregnate the wood with antiseptic and fire-retardant impregnation.

Carefully made with your own hands, the carpentry workbench will become convenient device for home handyman work.

This design is close to the ideal of a DIY garage workbench.

VIDEO: DIY workbench.

Creating a workbench with your own hands: 50 photo ideas

A metalworking workbench is a workbench with a wide range of purposes. It allows you to carry out plumbing, repair, electric installation work, processing various materials. A workbench is a must have in any home workshop. Craftsmen prefer to design it with their own hands in order to make it as convenient as possible for themselves.

Components of the device

• nuts and screws;
• file and hammer;
• paints with a brush.

Device mechanic's workbench- this is a rigid metal base (made from corners or square pipe). To decorate the tabletop, it is better to use a 50 mm timber. A steel plate up to 6 mm thick is placed on top of it. To fasten all metal parts together, use welding, but you can also screw in bolts.

Installation of the workbench frame and tabletop base

Before proceeding directly to assembly, carefully look at the prepared drawing. Make sure once again that the dimensions of the future workbench fit into the dimensions of the room where yours will be located. locksmith tool(garage, shed or workshop). Installation of the table begins with creating a frame:

1. From the corner, cut 4 legs of the same size.
2. Connect them at the top with horizontal bars made of the same material. Use welding. The result should be a rectangle (top view) of the given size.
3. Additionally, make a line of rigidity by once again fastening the legs in the same way with horizontal jumpers at approximately a height of 15 cm from the floor.
4. If you have a cabinet with drawers on the side under the workbench lid, then weld a couple of additional supports for it.

After this, you can begin assembling the tabletop:

• make holes around the perimeter of the horizontal metal crossbars for bolted connections;
• cut the boards to the length of the table;
• lay them next to each other without cracks or gaps, secure them in this position;
• make holes in the wood that match the holes in the corner.

Advice. The holes on the top side of the boards should have expansions. The bolt heads will go deeper into them so that wooden surface The countertops remained level.

The final stage of assembling the workbench

The tabletop will be ready after covering with metal. To do this, simply cut off a fragment required size from the prepared sheet and fix it to the wood base using self-tapping screws. Please note that after screwing them in, burrs may remain on the metal. They should simply be filed with a file.

If you have included drawers or shelves in the design of your workbench, use a simple technology for their manufacture. The material used is regular 15mm plywood. The boxes are assembled with screws. There are approximately 15-20 pieces per one. It’s easier to attach shelves to a corner, but for drawers you’ll have to additionally buy guide strips—sleds. They are welded to the frame.

The same plywood can be used to cover the sides of the table and make a screen on its back side. For greater stability, craftsmen recommend attaching rectangles or pieces of corner to the supports from below. It will help in this matter welding machine. If necessary, screw a vice to the workbench. Finally, treat all steel structural elements with metal paint to avoid rust.

Making a workbench for metal work is not very easy, but it is quite possible if you approach the matter responsibly. But you will be convinced that not a single purchased table can compare in quality with a product assembled with your own hands.

How to make a workbench: video

Home craftsmen sawing off wooden blanks on a stool sooner or later come to the need to make their own workbench for carpentry work. When performing simple tasks, you can get by with a universal work table and a couple of good clamps.

If you are serious about carpentry, you need the appropriate equipment. It doesn’t matter whether you make custom products or do something for your home. A homemade carpentry workbench will allow you to make any product at a high level. technical level, and will save you a lot of time.

IMPORTANT! When discussing this issue, it is assumed that you have free space for work. Ideally, a separate room in the form of a workshop. As a last resort - a high-quality canopy in the yard.

If you are going to do carpentry in an apartment, or on a spacious loggia, the only way out is to purchase a folding metal workbench. Of course, it won’t be possible to process large wooden workpieces on it, but the quality of work and convenience will increase by an order of magnitude.

The main task of such a device is to securely fix a workpiece of any shape on a flat tabletop. Instead of a carpenter's vice, a system of sliding halves of the working plane is used.

The product is fixed using adjustable stops. There are holes in the table for their installation. The thoughtful design allows you to secure even round workpieces.

The presence of a longitudinal groove in the tabletop (also with an adjustable width) allows sawing flat products without leaning on the edge, which requires the presence of an assistant holding the free side. The cut can be made in the middle using electric jigsaw, controlling both halves of the workpiece.

Such tables can be supplemented electric plane, circular saw or milling machine, which expands the possibilities.

A similar folding workbench can be made from wood. True, the stability will not be the same as that of a stationary product.

And yet, full-fledged carpentry work cannot be performed on such devices. Firstly, the apartment is not very suitable for this. Secondly, the dimensions of folding workbenches limit the dimensions of the processed products.

Therefore, most craftsmen who take a responsible approach to their work will prefer store-bought universal table homemade carpentry workbench of full size.

In addition, the finished machine does not provide individual characteristics masters:

• Height, arm length;
• Whether the master is left-handed or right-handed;
• Preferences in processed products - the tabletop can be square or rectangular;
• Features of the room or area where the workbench is used.

How to make a universal carpentry workbench with your own hands

Before you look for a project or develop a drawing of a workbench of your own design, you need to understand how the system works. I would like to immediately have a platform for cutting large workpieces, a milling cutter, and a drilling machine.

IMPORTANT! Any versatility impairs the specialized capabilities of the product. Some devices are still better used as separate devices.

Construction of a carpentry workbench

There are a great many designs, but the main components must be present.

Every craftsman needs a comfortable workplace to work with wood or for finishing manipulations. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.

Construction and purpose of a carpentry workbench

A workbench is a stable, massive work table designed for processing various products using hand or power tools. The larger the size of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.

Typical workbench layout:

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, you need to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.

Simple stationary workbench It is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It can be used for processing massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.

Mobile desktop It has small sizes(approximately 80x70 cm), weight about 30 kg and one vice. It is intended for working with small products and for minor repairs.

Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.

Making a workbench project

The working carpentry table should be made of such dimensions that it is convenient to work on it.

Height The table directly depends on the height of the owner, who should be comfortable standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, the workbench can be from 70-90 cm in height.

Lenght and width The size of the workbench depends on the area of ​​the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.

Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.

Set up a workbench It's best to be near a window, but you'll still need additional lighting. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.

design collapsible table can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench you can make folding legs or a twist-off tabletop.

DIY workbench. Blueprints. Video instruction

A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the courtyard of your own house or cottage.

Making the base

First of all, you should make the frame of their beams with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.

Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the entire structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.

To make the stationary structure even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be secured to the wall. You can increase the stability of a carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with self-tapping screws between top part frames and legs and are made of the same material as the table base.

Making a tabletop with various accessories

Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.

1. The boards are attached to three bars using metal corners, which are placed with reverse side countertops. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
2. Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and coated with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.

A recess is made at the end of the tabletop for vice. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed at the bottom of the workbench.

The vice is applied to its location, and the location for the holes is marked. A vice is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that its lips are located flush with the surface of the table top.

You also need to build stops on the carpentry workbench, which you can purchase or make yourself. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not secure parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.

It's quite easy to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, you can securely fix parts of any size. These stops are made from hard wood. You can simply make them rectangular, widen them at the top, or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring.”

You can make holes in the tabletop for pegs or build it up with bars of the required thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and cover it with a plank on the other side. In order to fix any part, the sockets should be located from each other at a distance of half the travel of the vice.

The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space to install a desktop, then you can make a collapsible carpentry workbench.

Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement

The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that connecting parts requires use of bolted connections.

The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation you can easily replace any parts. For example, every table becomes loose over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.

Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices, at which work will bring joy.

1. Glue together the front beam from several layers A and cut to final size (Fig. 1 And 1a). Then mill grooves 19 mm wide and 41 mm deep into it (Fig. 1a, photo A And IN).

Quick tip! Do not glue the parts of the milling jig-template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to make grooves in the rear vise block, which is wider than the front cover beam.

From a couple of scraps of thick board and 12mm thick material, assemble a simple template for routing grooves at a 2° angle, which will become holes for the bench stops.

When routing the grooves in the front beam using a 12mm helical router bit and a 19mm coping sleeve, remove material a little at a time, gradually increasing the depth.

2. Cut out the trim IN and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove any squeezed out excess glue.

3. Using the template that is usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill holes for the rods (Photo C, Fig. 1).

Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect the bench stop holes in the A/B front rail. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.

Note. This project uses front and rear vicesLee Valley. They differ good quality manufacturing, smooth operation and come with detailed instructions on installation.

4. Now make the cover shield WITH, lower pads for front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear beam G. Glue the trims, rear rail, spacer and front rail to the cover (Fig. 1).

5. Make the left and right tips N, I (Fig. 2). Form 36mm wide by 57mm deep dowels along one edge of the ends and drill 12mm holes.

Quick tip! To quickly create clean, tidy rabbets, remove most of the material with a mortise disc, then sand down the sides and bottom using a router table.

6. Mill the ends of the lid A-G folds on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (photoD), to form ridges that are inserted into the tongues of the tips N, I.

Use the tip as a guide to rout the folds on the lid. Be careful not to touch the front trim B with the cutter.

7. Place the left tip on the comb N, pushing it towards the front pad IN. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield WITH. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use an awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (photoF). Swipe parallel lines, retreating 6 mm in both directions from each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.

Use the point of a 12mm drill bit to transfer the centers of the holes in the H, I tips to the ridges of the cover.

Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that, when driving in the dowels, the tip and the cap are tightened more tightly.

Using a thin round rasp, work all the holes except the first one. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit together tightly.

8. Drill 12mm holes according to the markings. Then, starting with the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it by 2 mm in both directions, without going beyond the parallel lines, to create an oval 16 mm long. Do the same with the other holes, increasing the length of each next one by 1.5 mm in both directions (photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. At the right tip I make a 57x165mm cutout flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom pad E.

9. Put on the tips N, I onto the ridges and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the top and bottom edges of the tips.

Quick tip! To make it easier to install the tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowings at their ends.

Add a vise

1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of ​​movement of the router when making a recess in the bottom pad D for front vice (photo N). Mark the recess so that it is located at a distance of 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.

Use a 12mm helix bit to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange the cuttings supporting the router as necessary.

Separate the back plate to insert the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again and the operation is complete.

2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them according to the template you used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the lid.

3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J fillet with a shoulder and attach the front vise to the cover, following the instructions (photo I). Reinstall the standard handle-lever.

4. Cut the block to the specified dimensions TO for rear vise. Rework the milling jig you used before and form grooves 19 mm wide and 41 mm deep at an angle in the block (Fig. 3 And 3a).

5. Saw out the trim L for rear vise. Drill into the block TO 10mm through holes with 25mm counterbores (Fig. 3 And Behind). Pressing the trim against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it using a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill 16mm diameter holes at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from that described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included with the vice. By doing this, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.

6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any squeezed out adhesive from the bench stop holes.

Precisely align the holes of block K with the holes of the cover L. To avoid spending a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.

7. Attach the assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism into place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard lever handle.

Make bench stops

1. Cut out 17 stops according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” M and 17 springs N. We chose cherry wood for the stops, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the parts, and its color contrasts well with the white oak wood from which the workbench lid is made. Dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable for springs.

2. To give the stops the required shape, make copies of the template, enlarging them 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust them if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and still remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article “Bench Stops” published in this issue of the magazine.

Let's go to the bottom

Note. Before you start making, measure and write down the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit tightly into this recess. If it cannot be inserted, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.

1. Cut out the shelves according to the dimensions specified in the “List of Materials” ABOUT, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue trims to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to the partitions P/R and additionally secure with screws.

2. Cutting out the plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R partition shelf assembly.

3. From 19mm plywood lined with cherry veneer, cut out the side and back walls U, V. Glue the side walls in place first, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to secure it.

4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled frame before cutting the crossbars, posts, and trims to ensure that the lengths listed in the Bill of Materials are correct for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a small allowance in length, and then adjust them in place.

Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the base at the front, then add the posts.

5. Now cut out the back crossbars Z, AA, racks BB, middlemen SS and side bars DD, EE. Glue the bottom rear crossbar AA and middlemen to back wall V (photo K). After this, glue the back one in place. top bar and racks, then the side lower crossbars with mullions to the side walls and, finally, the upper side crossbars and racks.

Use a couple of thick, straight-edged pieces of wood to press the CC mullions tighter against the back wall.

6. At the corners of the body, mill 10 mm chamfers ending at the joints of the crossbars with the racks (Fig. 6).

Before connecting the base boards, you need to saw off the bevels on the slats glued on top. After this, you can begin milling the fillets.

7. Cut the side, front and back plinth boards from 19mm cherry boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19x19mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces so you can put them in place later. Finally, make the connections " dovetail" to fasten the plinth boards (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections To be sure, cut out the base boards to the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from them on top.

8. Saw miter bevels only on the slats for the side plinth boards, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn. Then glue the slats without the bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel just the top of the front and rear plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and precise matching of parts can be achieved by adjustment, removing material little by little (photoL). Then route a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all the plinth boards.

9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may need to use screws or nails to attach them if you have beveled the ends instead of dovetails.

Add doors

1. Cut out the crossbars NN, racks II and panels JJ specified sizes (Fig. 7).

2. Make tongues 6mm wide and 12mm deep along the center of the inner edges of all posts and crossbars. Then form tenons 6mm thick and 12mm long at the ends of the crossbars.

3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, crossbars and panels together. Once the glue has dried, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust them if necessary. Then mill 5x5 mm folds on the top and bottom edges of the doors with inside, as well as 10x5 mm folds on racks where there are no hinges. These folds leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet to install magnetic latches.

Attach the doors to the cabinet using overhead hinges and reinstall the magnetic latches.

Lower the lid onto the base

1. Invite three strong friends to help lift the heavy workbench cover and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well held in place.

2. Once you've installed your new workbench in your workshop, get started on your next project right away and you'll be able to enjoy your time in the workshop even more!