How to cover a ceiling with clapboard. Ceiling finishing with clapboard: wooden and plastic

Ceilings made of lining look simply gorgeous, in modern style and emphasize individual design rooms. The characteristic stripes that are formed as a result of finishing the lining on the ceiling can visually make the room more spacious and the ceilings perfectly smooth.

Lately the lining has become popular material and is used not only for covering walls, but also for finishing ceilings. It is easy to work with and virtually anyone who is not lazy will be able to update their ceiling by decorating it with clapboard.

Types of ceiling frames

The first thing everyone should know is that when installing lining on the ceiling, you need to make a frame. The main task of the frame is to separate uneven and unsightly surfaces from your future new ceilings. The frame will also allow you to bring the ceiling into a single plane and provide the entire structure with good strength.

Helpful information:

The ceiling lining is sewn on top of the frame, so you will need lathing in any case, no matter what anyone says. The frame itself is much simpler to make than a frame for plasterboard ceilings. You can use both simple and wooden slats.

Choosing the material from which to make the frame is very simple. Here everything will depend on the operating conditions and the wood from which the board itself is made. For rooms where the humidity level is exceeded, it is better to use it for the frame. metallic profile And . For the kitchen it is also necessary to use a metal profile, and finishing material– clapboard can already be used here.

Types of lining

In any other premises, a frame made of wooden beams will be great solution. It can also be combined with many materials. Secondly, the process of installing the lining on a wooden frame is much easier than on a frame made of a metal profile.

Lining - panel


Imitates ordinary wooden beams and has more simple form. It comes in both wood and plastic.

Eurolining


It has a deeper tongue-and-groove connection and a larger tenon. This technology helps better ventilation premises, drainage of moisture and various evaporations. Most often used for façade cladding. For interior decoration it is used more often than Lining-Shtil, since the cost of Eurolining is much cheaper.

Lining – Shtil


The material has a perfectly smooth surface that does not have grooves - recesses on the front part of the board. Used for interior decoration of walls and ceilings.

Lining – American


Simulates the laying of boards overlapping, as a result of which the joint between the boards is perfectly protected from various natural influences. Often used for exterior decoration.

Tools and materials

When working with lining, and indeed with wood, you need to keep the following set of tools with you so that your lining ceilings are flawless.

  • An ordinary hammer.
  • A screwdriver or a drill with a hammer.
  • and a construction corner.
  • Accurate tape measure.
  • Jigsaw or hacksaw.
  • Metal scissors, if the frame is made of metal profiles.

The materials themselves for lining ceilings must be selected according to previously drawn up calculations. timber for wooden frame can be used from 20x20 to 50x50 millimeters.

Remember!!! The thicker the timber, the lower the level of your ceilings. The lining will hold up perfectly on a frame made of 20x20 beams.


To mount the beams to the ceiling, you need to purchase plastic dowels that come with screws. The length must be determined based on the thickness of the beams, the lining itself, as well as the length that will be recessed into concrete floor. The screw should sit perfectly in the slabs, and not hold on to them with the very tip. Usually they take screws marked 8x45 or similar anchors.

If you decide to make a frame from a metal profile, then here family budget will be devastated much more. Since the number of frame components will increase significantly and you will need additionally:

  • Guide profile – UD.
  • The profile underlying the frame is CD.
  • Fastenings “Crab” and “U” - shaped fastenings.
  • Self-tapping screws for metal.

To install the lining itself on the frame, you can use construction stapler, self-tapping screws with a press washer. If the frame is wooden, then you can use ordinary nails.

How to attach a wooden frame


The first step is to mark the future ceiling from the lining. To do this, you need to find the lowest point on your ceiling from which to measure down the wall 6-10 centimeters and put the first mark. It will need to be transferred to all walls using water or laser level. It is according to these marks that you will check the horizontalness of the mounted frame for the future ceiling.

Important! When using wooden beams or other wood materials, remember that they are necessary first and to increase fire safety.


Wooden beams are mounted to the ceiling strictly perpendicular to how the lining itself will be mounted. The step between the bars should not exceed more than 100 centimeters. If the finishing material is PVC panels, then the pitch of the beams should not exceed 60 centimeters.


If you decide to make the ceiling not only elegant, but also improved, for example: then in in this case The step between the bars should in any case be no more than 60 centimeters. Since usually the so-called “slabs” mineral wool or other heat and soundproofing material They are also 60 centimeters wide. The bottom edge of all bars should be parallel to your floor and level with the rest of the bars. Be sure to use a water level.

We fasten two beams along two walls on different sides. The distance from them to the wall should not exceed 15 centimeters. We clearly check the level not only in the middle, but also along the edges of the beams. Next, in increments of 60 centimeters, we continue to mount the beams, checking our work using a level different points. In places where the beam lags behind the ceiling due to curvature, it is necessary to place wooden pads, which can be made from the remains of the beam itself. Next, we stretch the fishing line and use it to fasten the entire ceiling frame made of clapboard.


If you are not sure of the reliability of the structure you have made, then you can install additional cross bars, which will also ensure the rigidity of the entire structure. You can strengthen it only at those points where, according to your plan, lamps or other elements will be installed. Be sure to carry out all the necessary wiring before installing the beam. That’s the whole principle of making a wooden frame for lining ceilings.

Metal carcass


As everyone knows, a metal profile for creating various types of ceilings is universal and suitable for absolutely any finishing material. The frame itself and its installation system will be exactly the same as when creating a frame for hanging single-level ceilings from plasterboard. That's why I don't really want to repeat myself.


Lining made from wood or MDF will be laid on the ceiling in the same way. All boards need to be prepared and cut to the same size as the distance between the walls. It is also necessary to take into account a small gap of 5 millimeters between the lining and the walls in order to protect yourself from thermal expansion. If you are not entirely sure that your walls are even, then it is better to cut each lamella of the lining to a specific location.

Important! If you plan to install the lining on the ceiling using self-tapping screws, be sure to drill holes in advance, otherwise cracks will form from the screws. If you use nails, you must use a hammer so as not to damage the lock and the front part of the board with a hammer.

When your clapboard ceiling is in the process of being installed, you must mark all the places for future lamps and cut holes for the wires. Once the ceiling is ready, cutting holes will be more difficult, as there will be a risk of damage.

The last strip of lining is usually installed using wedges. They must be carefully driven between the wall and the last board of the lining and, evenly tamping, drive the board into the lock. If the board is much wider in width than the remaining hole, then you need to cut it along its entire length using a hacksaw or jigsaw. Additionally, there is no need to add glue to the lining, since you will already have a durable and strong structure.

Plastic lining


The principle of installing plastic lining on the ceiling will be the same as when laying wooden slats. The only difference will be that the first board of plastic lining and each subsequent one must be inserted into special guides for PVC panels. The guides have a groove in the shape of the letter “P” in which all the ends of the panels will be hidden.

Now they often make ceiling skirting boards, which already initially have this groove. There is also a collapsible design in the shape of the letter “L”, which consists of two parts. The first part is mounted before covering the frame with clapboard, and the second part is simply snapped into place at the end of the ceiling finishing. As a result, the overall ceiling level will be pre-determined assembled frame. But when installing the lining, it is necessary to ensure that all the strips fit more tightly to the installed guides and do not diverge from each other at the joints.

Ceiling plinth


After the work on finishing the ceilings with clapboard is completed, you need to secure a corner or decorative plinth around the perimeter of your new ceiling. The plinth will hide all the gaps between the walls and the lining. The baseboard is usually installed liquid nails. There are also special clips.

One of the stages of any repair can be called ceiling work. Repairing the ceiling is quite a labor-intensive job, so everyone is trying to make this process easier and simpler. Finishing the ceiling with clapboard is considered the most simple option, requiring neither construction experience nor special costs. But how to cover a ceiling with clapboard correctly?

To answer this question, you need to carefully study some of the subtleties of the process. Covering the ceiling with clapboard is carried out in several stages.

The lining on the ceiling looks noble

Material selection

This stage can be safely called the most important, since you need to select quality material which will serve for a long time.

The modern construction market offers a variety of materials for finishing residential premises. One of these materials is lining. It is a panel with a ridge on one side and a groove on the other. The tongue-and-groove connection of the panels allows you to create a reliable fixation system.

Most often, natural wood is used to make lining. Linden, pine and cedar are considered ideal raw materials.

Depending on the quality, wooden lining is divided into categories:

  1. “Extra” are panels High Quality, there are no knots or dark spots on them. The price of such material is very high.
  2. “A” – material with a small number of knots. Lining of this class is available to most consumers.
  3. “B” – panels with knots on the surface. Suitable for finishing country houses, lounges and balconies.
  4. “C” – the material is very Low quality, having in large quantities knots and dark spots.

Wooden paneling on the ceiling

In addition to wood, polyvinyl chloride is used to make lining. Plastic panels have a number of advantages:

  • resistance to high humidity;
  • no additional treatment with protective agents is required;
  • decorative film on the surface can imitate any expensive wood.

But PVC panels also have negative qualities:

  • under the influence of gravity, the material may crack,
  • the color of the lining “fades” from sunlight.

Having purchased wooden lining for ceiling cladding, you should use the following tips:

  1. After unpacking, the purchased material must be laid out in the room where the ceiling will be sheathed.
  2. To prevent the drying panels from becoming deformed, the surface underneath them must be fairly flat.
  3. It is recommended to dry the lining for a long time, from one month to three.

Selection of tools

Cladding the ceiling with clapboard involves the use simple tools that every owner has in his arsenal:

  • drill,
  • screwdriver,
  • hacksaw,
  • level,
  • roulette.

Preparatory work

  1. First of all, it is necessary to remove the old coating from the ceiling and clean the crumbling plaster.
  2. Then you need to make markings for the sheathing. The frame guides are positioned perpendicular to the selected direction of the lining boards. The direction is chosen so that the length of the panels does not have joints.
  3. If wooden blocks are chosen for the frame, they must be additionally treated with protective agents. The metal sheathing has small indentations from the ceiling, which allow you to hide existing engineering systems and communications.

The surface under the frame must be perfectly flat. This will extend the life of the ceiling and avoid unnecessary problems.

Lathing for plastic lining can be made from wooden slats

Installation of panels on the sheathing

Finishing the ceiling with clapboard does not require a large number of people with special knowledge. But the help of a friend or relative will make the job much easier. This is especially true for the installation of long panels.

The first panel is pressed tightly against the wall and secured in the places where the frame passes. The ridge of the second panel is inserted into the groove of the panel of the previous row and secured in a similar way. Work should be carried out only at positive temperatures and low humidity.

Holes for pipes and fixtures are cut as work progresses to avoid unnecessary cuts.

Clapboard ceiling

Fastening is best done where the ridge enters the groove. This will hide the caps of the fasteners. When covering the ceiling with wooden paneling, it is advisable to use stainless fasteners to prevent the appearance of rusty stains. It is possible to use hidden fasteners, but their cost is quite high.

A ceiling covered with clapboard does not require special care. The main thing is to promptly clean it from dust and dirt. And on plastic panels, any damage or scratches found can be repaired with wax.

Abundance of variety on the market building materials allows apartment and house owners to carry out ceiling repairs in accordance with modern trends and fashion. Tension and suspended structures ceilings. However, for lovers of rustic style and natural materials ordinary wooden lining looks more attractive. In this article we will tell you how to properly sheathe a ceiling with clapboard, choose suitable materials and assemble the sheathing. To all those who decide to equip the ceiling with wooden lining, you should be prepared for the fact that this process will require a large investment of labor, time and patience.

Selecting lining for the ceiling

More recently, when it came to ceiling lining, it was wooden figured strips that were meant. However, currently the construction market offers several types of lining. Based intended purpose premises, material capabilities and buyer preferences, you can choose one or another material.

The material for making lining can be:

  • wood;
  • polyvinyl chloride;
  • MDF boards.

It is worth going into more detail on each of the materials.

Wooden lining

In the case of finishing the ceiling with wooden paneling, the natural country style premises. Wood lining is used in premises for any purpose and is absolutely safe for human health. The price of this building material varies depending on the type of wood. Most often, lining is made from alder, cedar, fir, oak, aspen, larch and other types of wood.

Pine has antiseptic properties because it is rich in resins. These substances cause mold to form on the surface of the lining. In addition, pine itself is considered a fairly smooth tree, with a small number of knots, which makes it ideal for creating lining.


Lining made from coniferous wood is considered almost universal, unlike hardwood, which is used mainly indoors. However, any wood is susceptible to moisture, so it must be impregnated by special means and provide air access to ventilate it.


Depending on the quality of the wood, there are 4 types of lining:

  1. Top class (extra). This board looks perfect in appearance, there are no chips, dents or cracks on it. The price of such material is very high, since it is made by splicing. At high humidity this material begins to crack, so this lining is not used in damp rooms.
  2. Class A. Small knots are allowed, but there are no other defects on such material. As a rule, it is this category linings are chosen by the majority of consumers.
  3. Class B. There may be small defects on the surface of the board. Although such lining is usually not used in residential premises, for cladding balconies and country dachas it fits best.
  4. Class C. This is the lowest grade material, which has a large number of knots and defects.

Characteristics of MDF lining

In appearance, a ceiling made of MDF paneling resembles a wooden laminate, although this material is, in fact, a board made of pressed sawdust. This material is very sensitive to moisture. At the slightest contact with water, it begins to swell, losing its appearance and original quality.


It is worth noting that MDF paneling is used more often for walls than for ceilings. It allows you to organize various decorative elements and diversify the interior. In addition, the material has high thermal and noise insulation qualities.

If desired, you can combine MDF lining with different colors and textures. Installation of such material is not difficult.

Features of polyvinyl chloride lining

Covering the ceiling with PVC lining is an excellent option, since the material is very easy to handle and easy to install. However, it is worth remembering that PVC planks are fragile and very easy to damage.

There are two types of PVC lining:

  • with seams;
  • seamless.

Seamless lining allows you to create an almost seamless, smooth surface on which the seams between the individual planks will be almost invisible. If you want to create a surface reminiscent of eurolining, you should use panels with seams.

One of the main advantages of polyvinyl chloride panels is that they are resistant to wet environments. However, you should avoid exposing such a ceiling to direct sunlight, since under ultraviolet radiation the lining will begin to lose its original color.

Thus, optimal options For finishing the ceiling, the clapboard will be plastic (PVC) panels, as well as wooden planks.

Material calculation

Before sheathing the ceiling with clapboard wooden house, you should take care of purchasing a sufficient amount of material so that during the work you do not need to take breaks for additional purchases. Standard sizes one lining board is 15 cm wide, 600 cm long and 1.2-2.5 cm thick. These are the requirements of GOST 8242-88.

For interior decoration, panels with a thickness of less than 1.6 cm are used, and for exterior decoration, panels with a thickness of 1.8 cm or more are used. To determine the number of boards for finishing the ceiling with eurolining, you need to calculate the area of ​​1 plank and compare it with the total area of ​​the surface to be sheathed. Thus, if we took a panel 9.5 cm wide and 6 m long, it total area will be equal to 0.57 m 2.


Let's assume that the total ceiling area in the room is 9 m2. Then for work you will need 9÷0.57=17.3≈18 boards. This is the minimum number of panels, since during the cladding process the width of the canvas will be reduced due to the peculiarities of the installation of the lining. It is fastened with a comb into the groove.

Material quality control

After you have decided on the type, color, and quantity of the lining and delivered it to the work site, you need to check its quality. All panels should be laid out on a horizontal, flat surface and checked to see how well they correspond to the stated characteristics. Sometimes unscrupulous sellers place defective samples inside the packaging to avoid losses due to their rejection. Of course, it is advisable to pay attention to this during the shopping process in the store.


The next step if you plan to work with wood paneling is to dry it. PVC and MDF panels do not require this manipulation. To prevent the wooden lining mounted on the ceiling from becoming deformed, it must be thoroughly dried on a horizontal surface. The minimum drying period is 2 weeks, but a longer interval is allowed. If you do not want the wooden ceiling lining to soon lose its presentable appearance, drying cannot be neglected.

Preparation of tools and materials

To install the lining on the ceiling as quickly as possible, it is worth preparing in advance all the tools that may be needed during the work process:

  • a hammer drill with a drill with a cross-section of 6-7 mm (if you have to work with a concrete ceiling), or hammer drill;
  • screwdriver;
  • electric jigsaw or a hacksaw (the tools are suitable for any type of lining);
  • level;
  • roulette.

In order to cover the ceiling with clapboard, you will need to purchase a number of auxiliary materials.

Since the lining is attached to the frame, that is, the sheathing, you need to choose the type of material for it:

  1. Wooden slats - they are best suited for fixing any type of lining, since working with them is easier and more convenient, and their cost is much lower than metal profiles.
  2. Metal lathing made of steel profiles. It is usually used for fastening plasterboard sheets.

It is worth noting that for working in rooms with high humidity It is recommended to choose a steel version of the lathing and PVC lining, since they do not deform under the influence of moisture, unlike wood.

For a wooden frame you will need:

  • lath 4x4 cm based on surface area;
  • wooden or plastic wedges for the frame;
  • brackets;
  • self-tapping screws

For metal sheathing you need to purchase:

  • steel profiles;
  • fasteners;
  • pendant;
  • self-tapping screws;
  • anchors.

You can begin installing the lining on the ceiling after purchasing materials and thoroughly drying the wood.

Preliminary work with the ceiling

It is very important before making a lining ceiling to prepare it correctly. First, you need to remove a layer from the ceiling surface old plaster and clean the surface from dirt so that it is as smooth as possible.

Next, we proceed to marking the ceiling for the frame. In this case, it is worth deciding on the direction of the lining strips. In the process of further laying the lining on the ceiling, it is advisable to place it so that there are as few end joints as possible.


Because the wooden elements exposed not only to moisture, but also to mold, they must be coated with an antiseptic before installation.

In private houses, the ceiling should be pre-insulated. A layer of thermal insulation is laid between the profile posts, mounted with an indentation of 50-60 cm. If we're talking about about the apartment, then additional thermal insulation is not needed.

Next, we find a level for attaching the sheathing. Having decided on the direction of the slats, we mark the ceiling. Please note that the lining is fixed perpendicular to the sheathing beams. If desired, it can be placed at right angles to the walls or diagonally.


Retaining brackets are fixed to the ceiling with equal intervals between them. Then wooden slats are laid on the brackets, leveling them using small wedges.

In order for eurolining ceilings to be beautiful, the lathing must be installed very carefully and perfectly level.

The maximum step between fasteners is 50 cm. If eurolining is used, then the step must be halved.

How carefully you pay attention to preliminary preparation the ceiling depends on its final appearance and durability.

Fastening the lining

Installing lining on the ceiling with your own hands is not something too difficult; even inexperienced performers can do it. True, it is advisable to work with the paneling together to make it easier to fasten long panels.

We begin to attach the lining to the ceiling with our own hands, perpendicular to the sheathing from the wall. The first board is tightly fixed to the wall with a tenon. Using a level, adjust the position of the board and then secure it. To lay the lining, you can use both small nails and clamps. In those rooms where the design of the lining ceiling should be ideal, clamps are used, and in other rooms, ordinary nails are also suitable.


Then we take the next board and insert it with a tenon into the groove of the previous one. At the points of contact between the panel and the sheathing, we firmly fix the board. We fix all other lining panels onto the battens in the same way.

On the opposite wall, the last strip of lining may need to be trimmed. In this regard, it is advisable to place it in a place where it will be least noticeable. When working with plastic panels it's better to take advantage hand hacksaw, and wooden lining and MDF panels are easier to cut with a jigsaw.


Any holes for wiring or mounting lighting fixtures It is better to do it directly at the moment of attaching the lining, so as not to spoil it.

If you use nails to cover the ceiling with clapboard yourself, then you must first cut off their heads. At the end of the work, the nail holes are opened with wax.

The final stage of arranging a lining ceiling will be attaching the baseboards around the perimeter of the room. These decorative elements will add completeness to the ceiling and hide the gaps along the edges. Typically, wooden lining is opened with varnish, and baseboards with a darker stain and varnish. If desired, this ceiling can be painted.

Here are a few useful tips which may be useful to you:

  1. Before covering the ceiling with eurolining, it is advisable to check how good the electrical wiring and other communications running under the ceiling are. If in the future you have to dismantle the lining for repairs, it can be damaged.
  2. The ceiling lining in places of contact with electrical wires must be insulated to prevent fire.
  3. When working with wooden panels, it is advisable to use fasteners that will not rust. For PVC panels, the type of fastening is not important.
  4. Ceiling covering should be done in a dry room at a temperature not lower than 10 ℃.

The cost of a lining ceiling

The final cost of ceiling repair will largely depend on the price of materials. In turn, the price of lining varies depending on the type and species of wood, the length of the board, as well as production technology.

Depending on these factors, lining is divided into several categories by price:

  1. The most expensive is considered to be lining made of soft hardwood. Their processing is carried out in accordance with European standards.
  2. Hardwood lining falls into the middle price category.
  3. Wood paneling coniferous species is the cheapest.

Also, if you want to equip two-level ceiling from the lining, you may have to invite a specialist, for whose services you also need to pay.

How to care for the ceiling

If we are talking about lining made of wood, it is subject to mandatory processing antiseptic impregnations and primers that slow down the destruction of wood, prevent the development of fungus and rot. When choosing a specific product, pay attention to its color, which should match the desired result.

As an option, wooden panels You can coat it with a special oil, apply varnish or paint of your choice. The processing option depends only on the wishes of the owner.

In order for the ceiling to retain its presentable appearance longer, it is advisable to periodically wipe off dust from it. If just a damp cloth is not enough for cleaning, you can use special household products, which are sold in large quantities in supermarkets.


You can make the cladding of a living space from anything; fortunately, the market offers a huge selection. It's just a matter of personal preference and price. The desire to repair the ceiling yourself will not be enough, since you will need a special tool and at least the slightest idea about repair work. The lining itself is a fairly easy-to-work material, which means its installation will not be difficult for a real man.

Preparatory work before starting sheathing

You cannot immediately cover the ceiling with clapboard. First you need to select and purchase finishing materials, fasteners and missing tools. And, of course, you cannot do without preliminary cleaning of the surface, preparation and insulation.

But let's take things in order. First you need to choose a high-quality, and most importantly durable material that will also suit your taste.

Type of lining

Wood paneling

Cladding panels have a specific structure for their convenient fixation. All bars are mounted using grooves and ridges, which are assembled like a puzzle. Therefore, it is important to choose a material that will have perfect shape and have no traces of defects.


Wood panels are divided into categories:

  • The “Extra” category is assigned to materials made from premium raw materials, do not have knots and dark spots. This category is the most expensive;
  • Category “A” includes the same high-quality bars, but with a small number of knots. A kind of price-quality union. At the same time, the prices for such goods are quite acceptable;
  • Category “B” is best used in rooms that do not require close attention - recreation areas in the country, balconies, loggias;
  • Category “C” is panels made from the cheapest types of wood with knots and dark spots.

Healthy! The best materials The following trees are used for upholstery: pine, linden or cedar. This is a classification of wood coverings. But cladding ceilings with clapboards is more diverse; PVC materials can also be included in this category.

Plastic panels

PVC panels are divided into:

  • Seamless panels. Their design and ridge-by-ridge cladding technology make the ceiling as smooth as possible with a barely noticeable seam. Most often, in this case, panels of greater width are used in order to reduce the number of visible seams. In the photo you can clearly see the quality of the panels;

  • Panels with highlighted seam. They look similar to wooden lining. However, such cladding does not need to be pre-treated with anything;

Before covering the ceiling with plastic lining, you need to pay attention to some points when working with PVC panels:

  • The plastic itself has a fairly flexible structure and hides surface defects well. But such panels should not be subjected to constant stress, since cracks subsequently form that cannot be removed in any way;
  • has high moisture resistance, but the sun's rays are harmful to it. If the sun constantly hits such a ceiling, then over time it will lose its original appearance.

MDF panels

The fastenings on products made of wood and MDF are similar, so lining the ceiling is done in the same way as with wooden blocks.


Next step after choosing wood panels

When all the facing material has been purchased, it must be prepared. You can’t immediately start covering the room.

  • Immediately after purchasing the materials, they must be removed from the packaging and laid out separately from each other;
  • It is recommended to lay out the panels on wooden blocks or just a flat, dry surface;
  • Wooden panels must be dried first. No one can guarantee the complete absence of moisture in a product.

Advice! Optimal time for drying wooden materials – 1 quarter.

Be sure to use these tips, since sheathing the ceiling with clapboard long years This is possible only if the humidity of the room and the tree are equal. Otherwise, there will always be a possibility of deformation of the skin.

Note! Plastic and MDF panels do not need to be dried. Before installation, the materials should be kept for no more than three days in a warm place.

We begin installation

First you need to stock up on a special tool:

  • Hammer, drill or drill. If indoors concrete ceiling, then you need to use a drill with a diameter of 6-8 millimeters.
  • Electric screwdriver or a screwdriver for screwing in self-tapping screws. This device will significantly speed up and simplify the cladding process.
  • Jigsaw or hacksaw for cutting required sizes panels. Suitable for wood, plastic and MDF.
  • Construction tape.
  • Building level for the most even finish.

Advice! If the right tool If you don’t have a home and most likely won’t need it in the future, specialized hardware stores offer a tool rental service. You will not only need to pay for use, but also leave some kind of document or other collateral.

Now you can safely get to work. Below are instructions: how to properly sheathe a ceiling with clapboard with my own hands and using the above recommendations.

Preparatory stage of work:

  • Clean the ceiling from dust, dirt and even plaster, as it often crumbles;
  • Draw markup to build the sheathing. Immediately determine the direction in which the lining will lie. The choice should be made in favor of a direction in which there will be no end joints between the panels;

Note! Wood materials are not as durable as metal constructions. If the choice is made in favor of wood, then before installation it must be treated with additional means for protection. But it is impossible to completely get rid of the possibility of rot or mold appearing over the years, since moisture can accumulate there at any time.

  • If you own a house or cottage, be sure to lay a thermal insulation layer in the ceiling. The profile posts are installed at a distance of 50-60 centimeters from each other and insulation is laid in this space. This should not be done in apartments;
  • The lathing is attached to the ceiling using dowel nails. The depth of the fittings is selected according to the thickness of the frame;
  • Fasteners should be installed at a distance of no more than 50 centimeters. If the ceiling is covered with eurolining, the distance of fasteners is reduced by half. This is due to the greater weight and thickness of the material.

Preparatory work is very important step on the way to beautiful ceiling, which, at the same time, will last for many years. At this stage it is important to make the surface perfectly smooth and even.

Installation of lining on a structure

Installing panels on the sheathing is a fairly simple task and does not require the use of special knowledge. It is advisable if you have an assistant in this matter. Then lining of any length will be installed quickly and efficiently.

  • The first block should be firmly fixed to the wall.

  • Subsequent rows of panels are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones. Each panel must be secured in place where the sheathing runs.
  • Holes for lighting fixtures and pipes are measured during direct installation, so as not to make mistakes and not do anything unnecessary.

To ensure a perfect ceiling, panel fasteners should be inserted at the junction of the groove and tongue. Thus, the screw heads will not be visible. If nails are used for sheathing, their heads are cut with a special tool. Subsequently, wax must be applied to the attachment points.

Before covering the ceiling with plastic, openings are made in all panels. A drill (necessarily small in diameter) is used for this, which will not damage the surface of the panel.

  • Before covering the ceiling with clapboard, conduct a thorough check of the electricity and communications in the ceiling. If problems are discovered after installing the cladding, then when it is removed, damage and defects may remain;
  • If the cladding is made of wooden material, then would be better suited accessories from of stainless steel, for example, since it will not cause rust. In the case of plastic, you can use any fasteners, as it is easy to clean;
  • Under no circumstances should installation begin if the room temperature is below 10 degrees. You should also not carry out work in a damp room;
  • It will be useful to insulate the cladding in places of contact with the wiring.

Operation of the lining

If you are using wooden materials for the ceiling, then they must first be coated with an antiseptic, and then paint and varnish materials for protection from ultraviolet radiation and other harmful effects.

Do-it-yourself ceiling cladding with plastic lining also provides for some care measures:

  • Cleaning the surface from accumulating dust and dirt;
  • Treatment of chips and scratches with special wax.

In the case of MDF panels, the only thing to avoid is moisture. Its percentage in the room should not exceed 75%.

Conclusion

The article describes in detail and step by step how to hem a ceiling with clapboard yourself. We recommend watching the video in the article - it shows the process more clearly.

When working on interior decoration premises are used various materials. But despite modern technologies and development, lining is in great demand in the building materials market. Today, lining is a leader in the field ceiling coverings. Therefore, in this article we will consider the question of how to cover the ceiling with clapboard on a balcony or any other room.

The advantages of lining include ease of installation, beautiful view natural wood, relatively inexpensive price.

Materials and tools for fastening the lining

Tools you should take:

  • screwdriver or impact drill;
  • nails/dowels/screws/screws/clasps;
  • hammer;
  • centimeter/tape measure;
  • building level;
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • table and stepladder.

The main elements of installation are the lining board and the frame. The frame for covering the ceiling comes in two types - wooden and metal.

When installing with a wooden frame (lathing), you will need:

  • suspensions for attaching the frame to the ceiling;
  • wooden beams measuring 40x40 mm, from which the frame is assembled;
  • self-tapping screws

The beams for a wooden frame must be perfectly smooth and intact.

If selected metal frame You will need a metal profile made of galvanized steel, hangers, and metal screws.

The material of the ceiling lining is varied - it can be wood, fiberboard, polyvinyl chloride or MDF. Wood paneling (pine, linden) is in great demand.

For bathrooms with high humidity And kitchen premises you should opt for a metal frame and plastic lining. Also for suitable for kitchens and wooden lining, but it is better to attach it to the base of a metal sheathing.

Unlike a wooden frame, galvanized metal profiles cannot be deformed by humid air.

Natural wooden lining panels are ideal for lining the ceiling in a bathhouse, despite high degree humidity in the room.

Preparatory work

How to cover a ceiling with clapboard, where to start? Before starting fastening work, it is necessary to prepare the ceiling - remove the chandelier and small lamps. Also inspect the ceiling surface for damaged plaster or whitewash and cracks.

After eliminating the defects, the ceiling surface should be treated with a mold repellent. If necessary, the ceiling can be insulated with a layer of heat-insulating material.

Installation

Step 1: Frame installation

Fastening the lining to the ceiling surface begins with installing the frame. Without lathing, covering with clapboard will not only not hide flaws in the ceiling surface, but will also emphasize them.

Before installing the sheathing, the first step is to mark it. It is worth paying attention to the direction in which the lining will be laid. The profiles of the metal frame or the slats of the wooden sheathing should lie transversely (i.e., perpendicular to the direction of the lining), and vice versa for the longitudinal direction of the lining.

The sheathing must be installed as evenly as possible, otherwise skewing of the lining may occur. Wooden lathing has less durability than a frame made of metal profiles. But a wooden frame is more suitable for covering the ceiling with wood paneling.

Installation of a wooden frame for lining consists of several stages:

  1. If there is no need to lower the ceiling level, then wooden beams are attached directly to the ceiling surface.
  2. To level the frame level, use wedges made of wood or plastic.
  3. First, brackets are installed on the ceiling and then beams are added to them.

If the ceiling is sheathed with plastic lining panels, then between wooden beams craftsmen recommend maintaining a distance of 40-60 cm. For lining panels made of solid wood, the distance between the beams should be from 60 to 100 cm, respectively.

Installation of metal sheathing consists of the following steps:

  1. Take measurements of the height of the room/room in all corners, thereby determining the lowest point.
  2. From the selected point, measure a line 5-10 cm - level.
  3. Along the entire perimeter of the walls, taking into account established level the initial metal profile is attached. Dowels can be used as fastening.
  4. It is necessary to attach profile hangers to the ceiling surface. The suspension plates are bent downwards.
  5. Metal main profiles are attached to hangers and initial profiles.
  6. Before final fastening, you should check the level of all frame profiles.

The choice of lathing depends on preferences and financial capabilities. Metal profiles are durable, but also have a higher price compared to a wooden frame.

Step 2: Laying communications (wiring)

Before attaching the lining, you should check the functionality of the electrical wiring being laid, its reliability and insulation strength.

Step 3: Cladding

During the work, the material from which the lining is made is not significant. Because the workflow for each type of lining is similar. Strips (panels) of the lining are cut to a length equal to the length of the ceiling (minus 0.5 cm). If the walls are not perfectly smooth, then the panels are placed close to the wall. The strip must be laid perpendicular to the frame guides and with the groove towards the corner.

Then the first strip is attached on both sides along the entire length. It is necessary to retreat a distance of 5 mm from the wall.

The final strips of lining must be tightly inserted at a certain angle into the groove (lock) of the previous panel. To achieve a tighter fit, you can use a small rubber hammer: carefully tap on the end faces of the panels.

The second side of the panel should be screwed/nailed to the sheathing guides behind bottom part padlock

As you lay the lining, you need to decide on the wiring - make the appropriate outlet holes. Otherwise, after completing the work, it will be problematic to remove the electrical wiring and the material may be deformed.

The process of attaching the panels to the ceiling continues to the opposite side of the room. Most last panel should be driven into the groove, additionally using small wedges. These wedges are driven between the lining panel and the wall.

Most likely, the last strip will need to be adjusted in length. If wooden lining is used, the strip is cut with a hacksaw. If the panel is made of plastic, you need to make one even cut on both sides of the panel and carefully break it.

Of the common methods of fixing lining strips to the ceiling, experts distinguish 2 main methods:

  • fixation with clamps. Using a special construction bracket (kleimer), which is “put on” the groove of the lining panel and attached to the frame. The use of such brackets completely eliminates damage to the lining material. Fastening with clamps is suitable for plastic lining.
  • open fixation. This method is used when covering the ceiling with heavy lining panels. At open method requires at least minimal skill and accuracy.
  • fixation with self-tapping screws. This method is used, like clamps, when covering lining with plastic panels.

As a mount in this method Use self-tapping screws or small nails with small heads (or without heads). Nails should be carefully driven vertically into the grooves of the panels so as not to distort the appearance of the coating. But if, after fastening, the lining strips are treated with a dark-colored varnish, then you can not hide the nail heads, but hammer them in the center of the panel.

When fastening with nails, hammer blows should not be applied directly to the nail head. In this case, you can use a special extension for the nail (doboynik).

In the process of fastening the lining, it is necessary to avoid the formation of gaps and cracks between the panels. Otherwise, the appearance of the ceiling will suffer significantly.

Step 4: Installing skirting boards

In conclusion installation work A decorative plinth (or corners) is installed along the perimeter of the updated ceiling. The plinth will hide the gaps between the ceiling and the wall, the ends of the cut strips of lining and give a finished look to the ceiling surface.

Conclusion

The process of attaching the lining to the ceiling is not labor-intensive in itself. A person without experience in repair and maintenance can easily handle it. finishing works or with a minimum of repair skills.

It is best to attach the lining to the ceiling surface not alone, but with an assistant. This way you can significantly reduce the time, make the fastening better and more even. In addition, holding the lining panel on your own is very difficult and inconvenient.

As a result, finishing the ceiling with clapboard looks presentable; such a ceiling will delight you for a long time with its ideal appearance, texture and color.