Materials for ceiling insulation. Insulating the ceiling in a private home is an important step to reduce heat loss

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Depending on local conditions and the design of the house, the ceiling and roof account for 15-40% of its heat loss. Builders charge a premium for insulation of ceilings, floors and roofs, because... the work is labor-intensive and often has to be done by weight. However, it is quite possible to do ceiling insulation with your own hands without having construction qualifications: the technology is not complicated and in most cases does not require special equipment.

This article is intended to help those who decide to insulate themselves from above.

The general scheme of ceiling insulation with modern materials does not appear to be particularly complicated, on the left in the figure: a vapor barrier (vapor barrier) does not allow moisture vapor from the inside to reach the insulation, which can spoil it. The waterproofing membrane does not allow liquid moisture to reach it, incl. and condensation in the attic, but releases water vapor, which still penetrates the insulation. In tiny quantities, but when accumulated, it can reduce insulation to nothing and damage the structure of the building. However, behind the external simplicity there is a long evolution of insulation technology and many subtle nuances, without knowledge of which the work may be in vain. That's why

The following will be considered:
Physics and features of insulation technology from above.
Properties of modern insulation materials and additional coatings for them: roofing, hydro- and vapor barrier films; how to choose the right materials for insulation.
Possibility of using traditional cheap insulators and insulation materials: clay, expanded clay, sawdust, etc.
Schemes and methods of ceiling insulation: from the attic, from the inside of the rooms; also from the inside from the roof side - for houses without an attic (for example, country houses and temporary ones) or with an attic. How to insulate a ceiling in a house with cold roof
and concrete floors.

Methods for insulating ceilings in utility rooms; primarily in the garage and bathhouse.

Cold and warm roofs A roof without the so-called cold is called a roof. roofing pie: multi-layer insulating building structure between the counter-lattice under the roof deck and along the rafters. The construction of a roofing pie relates to another topic - roof insulation, but we will have to get acquainted with it later. Firstly, for buildings without attics and attics. Secondly, in a private house, the insulation of the ceiling from the attic and the roof are inextricably linked technologically and structurally, as can be seen on the right in the top figure. Insulating the ceiling from the attic along with the roof from the inside provides the following advantages:

2 layers of insulation of 100 mm each, separated by an extensive thermal buffer in the form of an attic space, are equivalent to 1 layer of the same material of 270-280 mm;
From point 1 it follows that costs for insulation are saved by up to 40%, and overall, taking into account the higher consumption of film, by 10-15%, which allows the use of more effective insulating materials;
By insulating the ceiling from the outside and the roof from the inside at the same time, you can get by with inter-beam insulation (see below), which is technologically simpler and more accessible to an untrained amateur;
“Two-stage” insulation of the top of the building will allow in the future, if necessary, to additionally insulate rooms from the inside separately without the risk of dampening the room.

About mineral wool

Insulation with mineral wool in the Russian Federation is breaking all popularity records: The material is inexpensive and easy to work with. This is explained primarily by large reserves of easily accessible raw materials and production technology that has been developed over many decades. The disposal of blast furnace slag in the USSR had to be taken care of even during the industrial leap of the first five-year plans, and for a breakthrough into space, thermal protection for return capsules was developed based on fibers from melted heat-resistant rocks. So “modern” methods of producing slag wool and stone (especially basalt) wool are actually not that new.

Professionals especially like mineral wool: it does not require expensive special equipment, but it is available for sale a wide range of special fasteners and accessories for it. As a result, the ceiling area is up to 20-25 square meters. m can be insulated in less than 1 work shift, or even in 2-3 hours, it depends on who knows how. How it looks technologically can be seen in the video below.

Video: example of ceiling insulation with mineral wool

After reading what follows, you may have a question: where is the membrane between the insulation and the ceiling? It is quite possible that in this case it is not needed if the attic and roof are already insulated; Why should the owners lay out too much? More Please pay attention to the following precautions when working with mineral wool:

The standard electrical wiring is rolled into a coil and hangs on the wall.
Judging by the fact that a temporary light bulb is used for working lighting, the room is completely de-energized, and its wiring is disconnected at the nearest junction box or at the input panel - this is absolutely correct and absolutely necessary.
The master puts on a full set of personal protective equipment (PPE): special overalls, gloves, goggles, and a respirator. For an amateur master, this is an important point, because... Quite expensive PPE will have to be used once.

It is already clear here that mineral wool is not without its drawbacks: it is an allergen and a group 3 carcinogen, i.e. Suitable for residential premises, but it is necessary to work with it using PPE. In addition, which all manufacturers and sellers without exception are prudently silent about, under the influence of even insignificant amounts of moisture vapor and own weight mineral wool gives irreversible shrinkage, as a result of which its thermal conductivity drops by 50% in 3 years: the air gaps in the insulation are the same thermal bridges as metal jumpers, only based on microconvection. Gaps between slabs in 5% of the insulated surface area increase heat loss by 30-35%

This leads to another unpleasant circumstance: the simplicity of working with mineral wool is apparent. When cutting slabs/rolls to size, you need to give an overlap (usually 20-40 mm) so that the slabs fit tightly into the openings without sticking out, as on the right in the figure, but also so that further cracks do not appear due to shrinkage. Perhaps this is only based on experience, because... the properties of the material vary significantly from batch to batch.

Finally, the thermal conductivity of brand new mineral wool significantly depends on its humidity - in the direction of deterioration. An increase in air humidity in a room insulated with mineral wool from 60% to 85% leads to an increase in heat loss by 10-12%. Therefore, in further presentation, we, still focusing on mineral wool as the most popular insulation, will give, where possible, recommendations for replacing it with something better.

Note: Also take a closer look at the mounting jig (circled in green on the left in the figure). If you use a propylene linen cord instead of a fishing line, the conductor can be left permanent. Then there will be no need for special fasteners and, when installed on the ceiling and surfaces with a negative slope, sagging in the middle and corners of the slabs will be eliminated.

Physics and technology of insulation

As you know, the critical factor for insulation is the dew point, the temperature at which this absolute value, in g/cubic. m of air, the water vapor content in it corresponds to 100% relative humidity and condensation occurs. Dew point entering residential premises is unacceptable: excessive wet air has a detrimental effect on health, and for asthmatics and heart patients it can be a fatal circumstance.

For building structures, the dew point is no more useful: from periodic saturation with moisture, concrete and brick crumble, wood molds and rots, because her resource antiseptic impregnation not unlimited. Since it is impossible to drive the dew point out forever, all that remains is to let it “walk” through the insulation, ensuring it is insulated from moisture vapor and ventilated. This insulation scheme can be most easily implemented when installing the insulation outside, pos. 1a in Fig.

Ways to “fight” dew point during insulation

Sometimes it is technically impossible to insulate from the outside. Or additional insulation is required to the existing one. Analogue - in the old days, in particularly severe frosts, they put on 2 fur coats: the one on the head with the fur inward, and on top of it - with the fur outward. In this case, i.e. when insulating from the inside, its design is designed in such a way that the condensate in the insulation migrates to the cold surface, and there it flows into a collector and is removed or evaporates outside, pos. 1b. In this case, the most insulating material is one that does not lose its insulating properties when moistened. These exist, see below.

Features of ceiling insulation

The peculiarities of ceiling insulation, firstly, are that it is impossible to organize condensate drainage. Even if the ceiling is slanted, will water flow down the walls? Drained walls in construction are known, but their complexity and cost are such that it only remains to be mentioned here. Secondly, the warm (emitting water vapor) and cold sides of the ceiling in a low-rise building can change places during the cold season due to solar heating. Therefore, the technology of ceiling insulation is focused primarily on ensuring that there is no condensation in the insulation. And if it has already formed, then you need to give it the opportunity to evaporate outward as quickly as possible, i.e. to the cold side.

Cold overlap

On a ceiling made of a material that conducts heat well, for example. concrete, when insulating the outside with loose material, 3 air gaps a, b and c are provided for this purpose, pos. 2a. The gap a between the vapor barrier (vapor barrier) and the insulation layer is a safety gap in case of heavy condensation, which is possible on a cold surface. The gap a must be ventilated, it is technically difficult to achieve, therefore it is advisable to insulate ceilings on concrete floors from the inside with massive material, i.e. impervious to moisture, insulation. One of the practically important cases of this kind is discussed below. The gap b is accumulating; a partial pressure of water vapor is created in it, ensuring their diffusion through a semi-permeable membrane that allows gases to pass through but retains liquid moisture. Gap c is the main working one, it is also ventilated, but since it is located closer to the outside, it is easier to ensure its “ventilation”, for example, in the form of a gap around the perimeter.

Note: if there technical feasibility and the ability to make the gap also ventilated, this will only benefit the insulation.

Warm ceiling

“Warm”, i.e. a poorly conductive ceiling creates a fairly high barrier on the path of heat from the inside to the outside, which shifts the dew point upward into the insulation layer, if you look at pos. 2b. This makes it possible to do without a gap, which in turn simplifies the insulation of a wooden ceiling from the outside. Suddenly, condensation does fall out at the border of the vapor barrier and the base, then in small quantities, it is immediately absorbed into the wood, and then, without bringing the humidity in the room to a critical level, it slowly evaporates. Residents most likely will not notice this - wood maintains its mechanical and thermal parameters in a wide range of humidity.

Therefore, it is preferable to insulate a wooden ceiling from the attic, pos. 3: the base is covered with an inexpensive film vapor barrier (see below); the membrane will also be covered with a regular waterproofing film without metallization. You just need to make sure to create an air gap between the insulation and the membrane; his role is described above.

Aweigh

The requirements for the vapor barrier become more stringent if it is possible for water vapor to enter from free space, because in this case, the intensity of their “attack” is unlimited. Then a vapor barrier is needed made of foil film, pos. 4, because no plastic is an absolute barrier to water vapor. A gap a between the vapor barrier and the insulation is also necessary, but now it is structurally easier to provide. Press the vapor barrier against the insulation, as in pos. 5, is undesirable in all respects, even if the vapor barrier with a substrate, see below: both the work is unnecessary and the insulation is worse.

Insulation materials

Modern advances in building insulation technology largely owe to advances in the field of separation films (membranes). The “good old” roofing felt and glassine and their brothers are still used, but when working for yourself, the least thing you should do is save on films. Both because of the quality and durability, and because by spending a little extra on insulating membranes, you can save more on insulation. Therefore, let's start with membranes.

Barriers and membranes

As is clear from the previous one, separation coatings used in building insulation are divided into vapor barrier coatings, or vapor barriers, which cut off liquids with their vapors, and waterproofing (membranes), which retain only the liquid phase. Vapor barriers, in turn, are divided into film, foil and foil with a capillary substrate (the so-called foil insulation), and the membranes are divided into single-layer film, micro-perforated film with double-sided vapor transmission, and the so-called. superdiffusive membranes that allow vapor to pass through only one direction.

Vapor barriers

Film vapor barriers are only effective when made from polypropylene with a thickness of 60 microns or more. Polyethylene of any thickness, due to its very nanostructure, is vapor permeable, no matter what anyone claims to the contrary. Under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity, PVC soon becomes brittle and cracks.

The basis of the foil vapor barrier can also be polyethylene, because a layer of foil on it does not allow gases to pass through. On high-quality material of this class, the edge of the foil can be felt at the edge of the tape, and you can pick it up by the corner with a sharp knife, i.e. The foil is quite thick. Foil insulation with a backing also has a layer of fibrous material (most often padding polyester) on the back, i.e. the side facing the insulation. If condensation occurs, it quickly travels through the capillaries of the substrate to the edges of the coating, so foil insulation with the substrate must be installed with flaps, like floor waterproofing, opening into the ventilation gap around the perimeter.

Note: in insulation structures on foil insulation with a backing, the “insurance” gap “a” (see above) is not required.

Membranes

Simple film membranes are common waterproofing, incl. and polyethylene. For insulation of ceilings they are suitable only in heated rooms, because... In addition to vapor, noticeable amounts of liquid are also passed through. When insulating from the attic, it is advisable to use microperforated films. Most often they are produced in 3-layers with reinforcement, on the left in the figure; They are also used as coverings for greenhouses and hotbeds. The good thing about them for insulating the ceiling is that the reinforcing mesh does not allow the film to sag too much and ensures a stable height of the gap b.

Superdiffusion membranes are sold as roofing films, in the center in Fig. Their outer side is smooth, metallized, and designed to be resistant to precipitation. Vapors pass through it to the outside; the outer side is either marked, or it is outside and in a roll. The wind resistance of roofing films is ensured by through reinforcement: with high-quality membranes it can be easily felt from the inside, and the film looks as if it was quilted, on the right in Fig.

Insulation materials

Materials for the actual insulation are divided into:

Monolithic, or massive - dense, moisture-proof. The dew point can wander in them as desired without compromising the quality of insulation.
Loose, fibrous and porous - produced in the form of slabs (mats) or rolls. The cheapest and most technologically advanced compared to the quality of insulation. They are hygroscopic, and when moistened, the properties of the material deteriorate, often irreversibly, so measures are needed to protect the insulation from moisture and its ventilation.
Bulk/sprayed – the insulating layer is formed on site; High-quality insulation requires special equipment.

Monolithic

From monolithic insulation for independent work Foamed polystyrene is suitable. The attic and ceiling under a cold roof must be insulated with extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. For insulation, EPS is produced in tongue-and-groove slabs, which eliminates the formation of air thermal bridges; therefore, foam insulation schemes are very simple and inexpensive due to the low cost of membranes, see for example. in Fig. EPPS does not shrink and is not hygroscopic. It is durable, capable of working as part of load-bearing structures, its insulating qualities are the highest, and its durability in the open air, according to the latest data, is up to 100 years or more.

Ordinary granular foam plastic can begin to crumble from strong fluctuations in external conditions in just a winter, but it is cheap, easy to process and can be mounted on any surface using tile adhesive. water based or PVA. Its layer of 30 mm is equivalent to 100 mm of mineral wool, so it is advisable to insulate heated rooms with low ceilings from the inside with foam plastic.

Foam and EPS boards do not bend, so they can only be mounted on open surfaces; To insulate the roof with EPS, you will have to dismantle the roof. However, a more serious drawback is its flammability and the release of huge amounts of highly toxic gases upon combustion. If a fire in a room insulated from the inside with polystyrene foam occurs at night, when everyone is sleeping, then the residents are virtually doomed: it is possible to evacuate people under such circumstances only in isolated cases. Therefore, it is possible to use polystyrene foam for internal insulation only in limited quantities and when there is no other way; one of these options, see below.

Fibrous/porous

The main advantage of loose insulation is the high productivity of work with them without the use of special equipment, which is why professional individuals, for whom time is money, are so committed to them. Mineral wool and sheet/plate polyurethane foam (neoprene) are suitable for independent work using “rubbish” materials. Mineral wool has been discussed in detail earlier, and neoprene is too expensive for insulating large areas, although it is not afraid of moisture and is comparable in durability to EPS.

Sprayed and bulk

In aggregate performance qualities EPPS is almost as good as sprayed foam insulation insulation. When frozen, they are similar to foam plastic, but are made on a formaldehyde-urea base, so they burn poorly and emit little, not very toxic, smoke. The mass that forms penoizol can be fed into hard-to-reach cavities, and kraft paper or glassine is sufficient as separators so that the foaming mass does not push out through the cracks. However, penoizols themselves are not cheap, and are sprayed using expensive installations. To work with a foam insulation station, serious professional training is required, so equipment for spraying penoizol is not rented out.

You can work with cellulose insulation or ecowool on your own: using a blow molding machine does not require professional training, so they are widely sold and rented, from those transported by vehicle to small ones like a backpack or suitcase. Ecowool as an insulation material is relatively little known in the Russian Federation, but compared to mineral wool it is simply a miracle:

Thermal conductivity 0.037-0.042 W/(m*K) is approximately equal to mineral wool; a thickness of ecowool of 100 mm is equivalent to a wall of 3 red solid bricks. This makes it possible to get by with inter-beam insulation, see below.
Up to a humidity level of 20%, the thermal insulation properties of ecowool do not decrease; upon drying after extreme moisture, they are completely restored.
Sorptive moisture absorption for 72 hours in an atmosphere with 100% humidity is 16%.
Does not shrink, does not swell.
Chemically neutral, non-corrosive.
Due to the presence of 12% antiseptic ( boric acid) and 7% fire retardant (borax) is slightly flammable and produces almost no smoke in an extremely hot flame, see on the left in Fig. below.

Unattractive to rodents: they eat glass wool, but do not touch ecowool. After 5 years of application, in a house where mice are infested, their passages in ecowool are not detected.
Can be applied dry manually on open horizontal surfaces, with moistening using a blowing machine in hard-to-reach cavities (in the center and on the right in the figure), with moistening and adding 5-15% glue on vertical surfaces and with a negative slope, both manually and by spraying.
High labor productivity when spraying moistened (which even a professional should pay attention to): the floor, walls, ceiling and roof (!) of a house with an attic area of 120 square meters. m are “blown out” in 1 work shift.

Note for your reference: ecowool goes on sale under the names Cellulose Insulation, EKOFIBER AB, EKOREMA, EKOVILLA, EXCEL, ISODAN, SELLUVILLA, TERMEX. The world leader in production and application is Finland.

The most important advantage of ecowool is that it is hypoallergenic and hypocarcinogenic., i.e. does not exhibit those and other properties. The raw material for the production of ecowool is waste paper, but who, where and when did something get inflamed or itch from old newspapers? Perhaps in the brain from the content of the articles. But to prepare ecowool, the paper carrier along with the content is ground into a homogeneous gray mass.

Ecowool has three disadvantages:

Firstly, the cost per unit of its mass is approximately 30% higher than that of mineral wool. However, if we take into account the difference in the cost of personal protective equipment for mineral wool and renting a manual blower, then the cost remains approx. 15%. Let's also discard the costs of membranes (for ecowool, kraft paper with warm side) – insulation costs are almost equal. And if you insulate the ceiling from the attic manually, then ecowool will cost less.
Secondly, ecowool needs to be prepared before use. The original mass is sold compressed 2.5-3.5 times; it needs to be fluffed up in some container, water and glue added if necessary. This is already bad for the pros; time is money, and blow molding machines that prepare the mass themselves are very expensive. But for an amateur and one-time work, this drawback is not particularly significant.
Thirdly, moistened ecowool must be applied in any way at temperatures above 23 degrees and air humidity up to 65-70% so that it can dry. This already seriously hinders its use: until the thunder strikes, the man will not cross himself. In the summer, who thinks about insulation? And then there were chills and heating bills - you can only apply it dry, not everywhere and not always.

Note: If you have a little ecowool left over from your work, keep in mind that this is an excellent material for papier-mâché crafts.

Expanded clay and foam crumbs

Traditional expanded clay (on the left in the figure), the advantages and disadvantages of which are known, can also be replaced with a slightly more expensive, but better material - foam glass chips or simply foam crumbs, on the right there. Foam crumb is lighter than expanded clay, so it can be poured onto a weak base: fragile flooring, into plasterboard pockets (see below), etc. Its heat-insulating properties are higher, allergenic and carcinogenic are not found. An example of two-stage ceiling insulation with expanded clay and mineral wool is shown in Fig. below. The film membrane (bilaterally permeable, not under the roof) ensures vapor exchange between the insulation stages, which is necessary to avoid condensation in the mineral wool. If expanded clay is replaced with foam crumbs, and mineral wool with ecowool, then instead of a membrane, polyethylene with a thickness of 120 microns will be sufficient. In this case, an installation jig is not needed, and the insulation from the inside can be extended to the full height of the ceiling beams.

Sawdust and shavings

Wood processing waste is also a traditional insulation material. How to insulate an attic with shavings, see the video below. Insulating the ceiling with sawdust is more attractive, firstly, because of its poor flammability. Secondly, at the nearest sawmill they can offer you sawdust for free in any quantity, and even deliver it at your own expense.

Video: insulating the ceiling and floor in the attic with sawdust

However, the availability of sawdust is the other side of the coin; they have a very big drawback: they can “soak” and ferment. In this case, CH3OH vapors are released. Yes, yes, that same wood (methyl) alcohol, from which the unlucky drunkards, into whose throats with a voluptuous gurgle it would seem that everything that is not water goes blind and die. That’s why sawmills are happy to get rid of the “sawdust”: according to modern sanitary requirements Sawdust from under the sawmill must be removed continuously and immediately sent for disposal.

Meanwhile, getting rid of both disadvantages of wood waste is not so difficult and expensive. Approximately the same way as ecowool is made safe. Proper insulation with wood waste is carried out as follows:

The work is carried out in the summer when it is very hot and dry;
Strong solutions of boron and borax are prepared in advance in 2 separate containers (necessarily separate);
The insulation is poured in layers of 3-5 cm;
Each layer is generously sprayed with both solutions alternately using a plaster brush or a homemade sprinkler;
The next layer is poured and sprayed after the previous one has completely dried.

As for sawdust, a reliable guarantee against fermentation even in a damp attic is provided by backfilling with a base of slabs and clay, see below. Unfortunately, it is not possible to describe why here; the thing is unique properties clay and outer layers of coniferous wood. Insulation of this type is known in houses more than 100 years old. But, once again, unfortunately, it is difficult to find fatty clay in nature; it is a valuable mineral raw material, and not cheap on sale.

How to insulate a ceiling?

From the attic

The main methods of insulating the ceiling from the outside, i.e. from the attic, shown in Fig. It is preferable, of course, to make do with inter-beam insulation. In this case, please note that if the ceiling slope is quite massive, you need to make vapor barrier flaps onto the ceiling beams or completely surround them with a vapor barrier. The vapor barrier can then be film. If the suspended ceiling is thin, then jumps in its thermal resistance at the locations of the beams can be harmful. Then the foil vapor barrier is attached from the inside between the beams and the ceiling cladding.

With full insulation, i.e. up to the calculated power of the insulation, the scheme on the right will be more labor-intensive, but also more effective, respectively. rice sections: the inter-beam layer is laid in rolls or slabs, and the above-beam layer is made of square mats spaced apart, i.e. with displaced seams.

Note: Please also pay attention to the section in Fig. bottom right. This is the same slab insulation with clay, suitable for all types of insulation without the use of synthetic membranes.

From the inside

No attic

In private households, in addition to the additional insulation described above, it is most often necessary to insulate roofless buildings from the inside “on the fly”, in the middle of the cold season. Let’s say they started building, built a utility block or makeshift shelter for a while, and then it turned out that they would have to spend the winter in it. Or the chickens have stopped laying eggs, the pig has become sad for some reason and is getting thinner before our eyes. There's nothing you can do about it; you'll have to insulate the roof.

Typical design warm roof shown on the left in Fig. Turning the insulation down is necessary to avoid freezing of the corners. This system has 2 units, A and B (ventilated ridge and counter-batten, or counter-bar), which seem to be impossible to do without dismantling the roof. However, the “bypass” diagram for node A is shown in Fig. top right. It is taken into account here that, firstly, in light buildings from individual developers, as a rule, there are no ridge beams, and a ridge “beam” is made by knocking down 2 boards in an L-shape. Ventilation holes drill 2-3 per span between the rafters. If the entire roof is only roofing felt, then there is nothing to do to prevent rain from dripping through the ventilation; you need to climb up and install some kind of ridge purlin with a gap, at least from bent galvanized strips.

What to do with node B is shown below right. This uses the fact that in small self-built buildings the roof beam (supporting structure) is not made of beams. The role of longitudinal beams embedded in the rafter legs is placed on the sheathing boards under the roof, and the spans between the rafters are free from bottom to top. In the figure, presumably, everything is clear: the under-roof membrane will have to be applied in pieces, and the required insulation capacity will be obtained, if necessary, with the help of backing beams.

In an apartment building

Insulate ceilings yourself apartment building only possible from the inside. Firstly, residents do not have the right to carry out work on the roof or common attic; Secondly, why do we pay contributions for major repairs? The roof is cold - you need to require the operator to insulate it; doesn’t want to - all legal rights are on the side of the tenants.

However, while there is fuss and litigation, you can do something with your own hands to insulate the ceiling in the apartment. Typical scheme insulation of the ceiling from the inside over concrete is shown on the left in Fig. Its main disadvantage is not at all the expensive, corroding, and not always as effective as manufacturers claim, special metal profiles for insulation with thermal seals-thermal washers. Not like thermal washers for installing polycarbonate! Both can be replaced with wooden sheathing. And not the special materials for the thermal gap around the perimeter and the complexity of working with them.

The main thing is that 0.4-0.5 m is subtracted from the height of the room. This does not add habitability in any way to modern apartments, but what about the Khrushchev-era apartment buildings with 2.5 m ceilings that are most in need of insulation?

But even here there is an acceptable way out of the situation. Let us take into account, firstly, that in stone houses heat escapes through the ceiling mainly in the corners. Anyone who hasn’t seen how the ceilings in single-family apartments become damp and moldy, take my word for it. Secondly, block and monolithic houses very resistant to fire. Achieving a widespread fire in them can only be done through deliberate malicious influence. Therefore, it is possible to use granulated foam in a small volume.

The scheme for insulating a concrete ceiling, worked out back in the Brezhnev era, when plasterboard became available for sale, is shown on the right in Fig. In this way, only approx. is subtracted from the ceiling height. 5 cm. Filling the pockets of the corners using it is quite difficult, which is why this technology did not really catch on back then: the corners are sheathed first along the short sides of the room and filled with insulation from the sides. Then the corners of the long sides are sheathed and insulation is poured into the spaces between the sheathing slats. The foam and horizontal lining are installed last.

Now let’s remember once again about ecowool. Will it be difficult to get it into your pockets? At least through temporary technological hatches? The question is rhetorical.

Special cases

Attic

The insulation of attics is actually the same special topic as the insulation of roofs. Here it is appropriate to mention it again in connection with ecowool. Look at what's on the left in the picture, filled with red. In private houses, it is either impossible to get into this attic without dismantling the roof, or it is impossible to work there. And you can blow in ecowool instead of the recommended roll insulation without any special difficulties.

Garage and bathhouse

Garage roofs are often mounted on steel I-beams or channels. Reliable, the price is not too bad, but what to do with such thermal bridges if you need to insulate? The insulation diagram for a garage ceiling on steel beams is shown on the left in Fig. Its peculiarity is that the insulation boards are laid in at least 2 layers, staggered horizontally and vertically. In this way, when insulating with mineral wool, it is possible to reduce heat loss to acceptable levels. If you use ecowool, then the cavities between the beams and between the sewing and the beams are simply blown out with it. Folgoizol is not needed then; kraft paper on the inside along the ceiling lining is enough.

With a bathhouse, the matter is simpler: the features of its design, without which a bathhouse is not a bathhouse, and the thermal/humidity operating conditions make it possible to develop a universal scheme for insulating the bathhouse ceiling, which is shown in Fig. on right. Feature: if the insulation is mineral wool, then it will certainly be basalt, the other will not withstand thermal loads and periodic dampening. If you insulate a bathhouse with ecowool, then the peculiarity is that you need to prepare the mass with the addition of glue.

Few people think that ceilings also need. Most people think that regular exterior wall decoration is enough.

However, the ceiling is the same full-fledged structure as the walls or floor. And it conducts heat through itself in the same way.

If you do not insulate your ceilings correctly and on time, you may face serious troubles. How to insulate the ceiling in a private house? Now we will find out.

1 Heat transfer using the example of a ceiling

First, let’s clarify why the ceiling should be insulated at all. If everything is quite simple with walls, then with ceilings the situation is not so clear.

Any wall needs insulation from the outside and this is completely normal. Insulated, it cannot be cooled by the external temperature, which means it cannot transfer heat into the room. That is, a kind of cocoon of thermal insulation is formed around the house.

It interferes with ceilings elementary physics. We are talking here about the exchange of heat flows inside enclosed spaces. It just so happens that the flow exchange scheme is always the same and is characterized very simply.

Warm air always tends upward, and cold air always tends downward. The nuance here is that if the ceiling between floors or between the attic and the room is cold, then all the hot air quickly cools down, and warm air comes in its place, which cools down in the same way.

As a result, a natural air cooling system is formed. It is very easy to break it, just insulate the ceiling from the inside or outside.

1.1 Where is it better to insulate?

As we noted above, insulation of the ceiling in a private house can be carried out both from the inside and from the outside.

Let's be clear right away. If we are talking about the ceiling, then insulation from the inside means that we install thermal insulation from the inside of the room, that is, directly on the ceiling.

If methods of finishing outside are discussed, then we mean insulating the floor of the ceiling, which forms the ceiling. That is, insulating the floors between floors so that cold air does not cool the structure at all.

In most cases, the ceiling is cold because it is exposed to cold air from above. This often happens in houses with an attic without.

The attic, of course, is a kind of barrier between the street and the room, but it does not always perform its functions as it should.

If the attic is poorly protected, and insulation is not laid between its rafters, then very soon it will freeze. And the temperature inside it will be, if at all, higher than outside, then not by much. A couple of degrees maximum.

As a result, the ceiling will still freeze. The solution here is clear. The useful volume of the attic is not so important, plus it is always more convenient to insulate on the side where the cold air comes from. That is, cut off low temperatures from structures.

Insulation from the inside, on the contrary, allows the structure between floors to freeze, but does not allow it to transfer the cold into the room.

Such solutions are considered less effective. Not only will the ceiling be colder in any case, but you will also lower the height of the ceilings in the room. Do not forget that thermal insulation will take up at least 10 cm of height.

If we are considering insulating the ceiling directly between floors, then the solution is not so clear-cut. In any case, it is better and more convenient to work outside.

There you don’t have to assemble the frame in a suspended state, which is a big plus. And if your ceilings are cold, it means that the temperature in the room above is also not okay.

But there are also situations when it is realistic to make a thermal insulation device exclusively from the inside. For example, if the top floor does not belong to you, or it is simply impossible to install normal thermal insulation there.

2 Choice of insulation

Ceilings are insulated with different materials. Choosing the best one largely determines how you will act in the future.

Over the entire period of work, several main categories of insulation have emerged, which are almost ideal for use in such situations.

So, you can insulate yourself:

Mineral wool and its varieties (ecowool, glass wool, etc.);
Polystyrene foam, both regular and extruded ();
Expanded clay, wood shavings;
Penoizol, polyurethane foam.

2.1 Mineral wool

When insulating ceilings, using mineral wool or ecowool is probably the most profitable option. Such decisions are completely justified, because mineral wool almost perfectly fits all the requirements for thermal insulation of the ceiling.

It is vapor permeable and can withstand temperature changes well. It is capable of not allowing heat to pass through, but it does not burn in fire and can be easily placed in any accessible place.

Another big advantage of mineral wool, especially when it comes to installing insulation in the attic, is that rodents do not eat it.

As for the specific choice between mineral wool, ecowool or glass wool, then, of course, priority will always fall on mineral wool.

It is made from basalt fibers, which are melted in special furnaces. As a result, a material that is safe for life and very useful is produced.

Ecowool is a product that is collected from waste from the paper industry. Ecowool is safe and quite cheap, but its properties are inferior to mineral wool. In addition, it is a little more difficult to install it yourself, although the technology is almost the same.

As for glass wool instead, it is advisable not to lay it with your own hands. Or rather, you can lay it down, but only in good protection. Otherwise you are taking a serious risk.

2.2 Expanded polystyrene

Foam can also be insulated. In some situations it becomes even preferable to mineral wool. But the foam is vapor-proof, can become food for rodents, and most importantly, it burns in a fire.

When working with ceilings, such properties are not the best help. Of course, any structure can be finished with polystyrene foam, but here you need to be careful and clearly calculate what is best to use in a given situation.

However, the solution may well be insulation with extruded foam plastic. Unlike ordinary ones, it does not burn in fire and is not eaten by rodents. That is, the main nuances in this material are leveled out.

2.3 Backfill materials

The use of backfill materials includes insulation with expanded clay, shavings, polymer beads, etc. The solution is quite trivial and even old-fashioned. Our grandfathers used the same expanded clay for thermal insulation of interfloor ceilings.

However, one cannot deny the fact that such thermal insulation really works. And you can lay it in a day and with your own hands.

Of all the loose insulation materials, expanded clay is the easiest to work with, but it also costs more than the same shavings. You can even buy it for pennies. However, the choice between insulation is not so important here. Both expanded clay and polymer beads insulate the floor in the same way. But we note in advance that the quality of ceiling insulation will still be inferior to the quality of mineral wool insulation.

2.4 Penoizol and polyurethane foam

These insulation materials also have the most interesting and non-standard structure. Of course, because they are essentially polyurethane foam, which is applied to the walls in huge quantities.

Roughly speaking, all the openings between the pre-installed frame are filled with foam, and then they wait until it dries.

Foam liquid insulation easily lies on the surface and has excellent adhesion to any materials. They are not afraid of water, fire or rodents. But they also have their drawbacks.

First of all, this concerns the fact that it is simply impossible to apply such materials with your own hands. To work, you will at least need a specialized foam mixer and sprinkler.

Also, foam insulation, as well as the work of applying it, will cost you a fairly impressive amount.

2.5 Insulation technology

The technology for arranging thermal insulation of ceilings consists of collecting wooden frame. Insulation is placed into the frame, which makes it possible to hide it under subsequent structures.

It is better to think in advance about the dimensions of the frame, the amount of insulation required, etc. Remember that insulating the floor and ceiling is always inextricably linked with reducing the space inside the room.

If the technology involves the installation of mineral wool slabs 5 cm thick, then the total thickness of the thermal insulation cake will be no less than 7-8 cm. This must be taken into account.

Stages of work:

We prepare the surface, clean it, cut the frame elements.
We mount the frame guides
If necessary, we lay transverse stabilizing bars.
We lay a waterproofing film.
We lay the insulation on the glue.
Additionally, we secure it with dowels.
We lay a vapor barrier film.
We stuff the sheathing.
We install the finishing coating.

The installation technology both inside and outside is almost the same. The difference can only appear at the stage of choosing the fastening of thermal insulation and the frame elements themselves.

2.6 Analysis of features when insulating ceilings (video)

Typically, the ceiling and roof consume up to forty percent of the total heat exchange of a house. Ceiling insulation is a pressing issue for many families. This type of work requires certain knowledge and skills of a builder. As with any construction process, it has its own characteristics and difficulties. Currently, thanks to modern technologies, any novice builder and ordinary person will be able to do such work.

Peculiarities

The so-called cold roof is built according to slightly different principles. During its construction, the usual types of layering of materials are not used. A similar type exists in those houses where the room under the roof is not residential and is not heated in winter.

Due to this roof structure, it is lightweight and minimum costs during construction. The installation itself is much easier than when building a roof with warm design. Previously, it was believed that this was an ideal and inexpensive option when building a simple country house.

It is important to know that due to the lack of heating in the upper room, the air there acts as a buffer, which helps to avoid unnecessary heat losses.

Due to the increase in heating tariffs, many people began to think about insulating their ceilings. A large amount of heat evaporates from the house due to the presence of cracks in the ceilings. This is due to poor quality construction and poor building materials.

Insulation of the ceiling and the presence of a cold roof is a pressing problem for residents of the top floors. This is especially true for old housing stock. This problem is also relevant for owners who live in a private house. The attic is neutral territory, and the management company may not allow a layer of insulation to be placed there. Therefore, the option remains to insulate the ceiling in your own apartment.

The peculiarity of this solution is that several useful centimeters from the ceiling height will be lost. But thanks to the capabilities of drywall and various lighting fixtures, you can get an updated and fashionable interior. To keep warm and not pay too much for heating, you should think about insulating the ceiling.

Thermal insulation of the ceiling in a private house has its own characteristics. It is customary to start work from the second or outermost floor. It could be attic space, top floor or attic areas. Laying a special material with thermal insulation properties occurs on top of the ceiling or in empty cracks and helps retain heat in the room.

There will be no need to think about additional ceiling finishing. The craftsman will not need to install insulation on the ceiling itself. Thanks to the placement of insulation in the ceiling, condensation will not form.

You need to know that you cannot insulate the roof slope. This will contribute to the melting of snow and the formation of icicles. In addition, an insulated attic is already an attic according to building standards. It is also important to know about this feature: the next layer directed out of the room should be more vapor permeable than the previous one.

Another feature is that it is impossible to drain the condensate. This rule also applies to sloped ceilings. There are drainage walls. This is a very expensive and difficult pleasure for owners of a private home. The cool and hot sides of the ceiling in an apartment building can change places. It depends on the time of year.

It's worth knowing that modern technology Ceiling insulation is focused on the absence of condensation in the material itself.

And if it does form, then it should have the opportunity to come out.

Another feature is the process of laying on a cold floor. When using loose material, be sure to leave gaps. Another gap remains between the insulator and the insulation layer. This technique is a safety net in case of condensation.

In a private house or cottage, it is possible to insulate the ceiling of the next floor using a special material that is placed on top of the ceiling or in existing voids. The features of the overlap depend on its type. It can be made of wood or concrete.

To put insulation on beams, which are a wooden floor, you should use lightweight and backfill materials. Materials in roll form are also suitable. In order to insulate concrete, it is worth using not very loose mats and dense materials.

If the issue of insulation was not resolved at the construction stage or we are talking about the last floor of a residential building, then it is quite justified to start insulation as needed.

If we are talking about insulating the roof of a private house made of wood, then in this case there are a number of advantages. The insulation will create additional sound insulation. This is especially true during times of heavy rain and wind outside. In hot weather, the insulation will block the entry of hot air from the street. Due to this, a pleasant climate will remain in the room.

In winter, an insulated roof will help significantly save energy and will prevent heat from escaping from the room to the street.

You can insulate the ceiling in a private house made of wood yourself. It is important to be well prepared. You need to know the properties of different materials, their pros and cons, master specific technology for ceiling insulation, and study video instructions.

It has become fashionable to insulate attics and turn them into attics. A feature of such a room is the ventilation area criteria, which are located between the room and the external structure. The size of such ventilation usually ranges from fifteen to twenty centimeters. But a regular roof has an attic with dormer windows. Therefore, to create a warm climate there, it is important to take care of sufficient air circulation.

When heating, good ventilation reduces the degree of heating of the roof and prevents the formation of ice blocks on the roof.

For residents of multi-storey buildings or private houses, if it is not possible to insulate the roof from the top floor, you can consider another option. We are talking about insulation from below. This type of work is possible if reconstruction of premises with good overlap in the attic, when there is no way to get into the attic space. This is especially true for residents of apartment buildings and intractable managers. In this case, the structure will be installed based on a frame made of wooden slats or metal elements. The insulation can be in the form of slabs.

There is a big disadvantage with this type of insulation. As mentioned earlier, due to this technique, the height of the room and precious centimeters are lost.

In addition, such work requires more experience and time to complete.

It must be remembered that good and durable insulation will be achieved with an integrated approach. In addition, in a room with a cold roof, it is additionally necessary to insulate door and window openings and, without fail, the floor. Using a thermal imager, you can easily calculate the areas through which the greatest number heat. They are usually red and yellow.

Materials

Currently, construction stores offer a large selection of insulation materials. In order to choose the right options, you should carefully study the presented samples and their main characteristics. They must meet all the necessary requirements.

There are several nuances on the basis of which you should choose materials. It is important to know that products with low thermal conductivity are best suited for this. The material must be moisture resistant. This is an important criterion when choosing insulation for the outside and for a rather worn-out roof.

Insulation and other materials must last quite a long time, so they must be durable. Don't forget about environmental safety. For work you need to choose non-flammable or low-flammable products.

For a private home, the best insulation is expanded clay.

Often shavings or sawdust are used, stone or mineral wool, ecowool, polystyrene foam, penoplex, and aerated concrete are often used. Polyurethane foam is a sprayable type of material.

For roof insulation wooden house It is worth using certain types of insulation. The material must be selected strictly in accordance with the type of flooring. It comes in two types - concrete or wood. For concrete it is worth using heavier insulation materials. They come in the form of a mat or slab. As a rule, they are of the backfill type.

Builders often use insulation materials of natural origin. These include sawdust, hay, pine needles, last year's leaves, algae or reeds. However, it is worth remembering that all natural materials, except sawdust, are subject to severe rotting.

It is important to approach the issue of choosing material extremely responsibly.

Which to choose?

Insulation in the form of shavings or sawdust is considered the oldest material. In areas where woodworking production is highly developed, this material is very cheap. It is perfect for creating a layer of insulation on top of a wooden floor. A significant disadvantage of this type of insulation is its high flammability.

There are three types of mineral wool in the construction industry: stone, slag and glass. Stone wool It is obtained from rocks with the addition of clay, limestone and formaldehyde.

A significant disadvantage of this material is that it contains harmful substances. When heated, they turn into phenols and enter the air. Balsat wool is considered safer; it contains much less harmful substances.

Slag wool is obtained from the use of blast furnace slag and other waste from the metallurgical industry. Due to its average thermal conductivity and ability to absorb large amounts of moisture, it is not suitable for insulating a cold ceiling.

Glass wool is the most suitable material Moreover, it has an extremely low cost.

The obvious disadvantage is that if particles of the material get on the skin or mucous membranes of a person, it can cause harm to health. In this case, experts advise using gloves and special means protection.

A clear advantage of wool as home insulation is its ease of transportation and installation. This is possible due to its low weight. Cotton wool has low flammability and high temperatures can only sinter. It is important for owners of country houses and cottages to know that glass wool is not the most favorite material for insects, various rodents and mold to live in.

Polyethylene foam is foamed PVC on which a layer of foil is applied. The manufacturer produces this insulation in rolls up to one meter wide. You can also insulate the ceiling using polystyrene foam. But it is important to know that in this case additional installation will be required. suspended structures. In a private home, it is also good to use polystyrene foam. It fits tightly and, due to its good density, is often used in the attic as a base for further putty.

Expanded clay is also very popular. It is better if it is made of light alloy clay. Due to this, the material is light and has a fairly porous structure. Production modern insulation materials allows you to choose foam products. Many builders consider isover as insulation. This material is similar in many characteristics to mineral wool. But it is more elastic and resistant to stress.

Another worthy option is penofol. Its distinctive feature is its ability to reflect thermal radiation. This material is well suited as insulation inside and outside the house. With this method it is quite possible to insulate the entire country house, and not just the ceiling.

Don't forget about polyurethane foam. It is a convenient and good quality material that meets all the necessary characteristics as insulation. It is a polyurethane foam that only needs to be sprayed on to get the desired result. It not only insulates, but also helps to soundproof the room.

For residents apartment building It's best to get permission from management company and insulate the attic floor.

An excellent option in this case would be to use expanded clay. This material is fire resistant and perfectly protects against moisture.

Vapor-permeable insulation is often used inside the apartment. In the process of repair work, the master uses special materials that fill the entire ceiling area. After this, you can begin finishing work using drywall.

Application area

As noted earlier, materials can be used both indoors and above the ceiling. Sawdust and clay are ideal for eliminating defects in wooden floors. The floor is worked with clay, then sprinkled with a thin layer of sand and sawdust is scattered on top.

To prevent mice from getting into the sawdust, you should use carbide mixed with slaked lime. In an old house made of timber, the height of such insulation can reach thirty centimeters. When using the attic for economic purposes, it is enough to lay wooden boards on top of such insulation.

Experienced craftsmen use a special film with waterproofing.

It allows particles of steam to escape from living spaces. For a residential building, you can use a mixture of clay and sawdust. An excellent option for a log or frame house.

In any case, people will walk on the concrete floor of an apartment building. This will happen during repair or maintenance work. In this case, you should choose dense foam or mineral wool. It is necessary to put plywood or board on the insulation.

You can use these two types of insulation and a less dense layer. Due to this, the material will be much cheaper. In this case, you need to make a wooden sheathing on the slab. It is better if it is on stands, because the mounted height can reach twenty centimeters or more. Insulation is laid under such sheathing and a gap is created for ventilation.

To insulate reinforced concrete floors in a brick house, you can use polystyrene foam. In this case not we're talking about on the release of toxic substances during fire. Residential apartments are separated from it by a special ceiling that does not burn.

If there is a wooden floor, it is not advisable to use polystyrene foam.

This also applies to norms fire safety. The most common type of flooring between floors is wood. In this case, you should opt for ecowool. This type of material is placed in bulk; it can fill any space.

Ecowool tiles are laid in several layers. It is important that the seams of the layers are overlapped. After insulation, the attic turns into an attic, but this applies to private houses and cottages.

Current in Lately There was a question about insulation in the basement.

IN modern houses such a room can be equipped into a real living room. This could be an office, a gym or a workshop. In any case, this room can only be used if the temperature in it is comfortable for a person. Insulation basement- this is the right step towards saving energy and heat throughout the house. Even if the basement is unsuitable for equipping useful space in it, it still needs to be insulated.

This can be done internally, externally or in a combined way. The choice of thermal insulation materials is quite wide. The main thing is to choose suitable option for specific purposes.

Work technology

It is very important that the roof of the house is warm. This is not cheap, but it saves your budget in the future. After all, energy costs are significantly reduced.

When working on ceiling insulation with expanded clay, the weight of the material itself is of great importance. Due to the weight of expanded clay, it cannot be used in the presence of wood floors. Due to the heaviness of the material, the decking may completely collapse. Expanded clay should be used in the presence of concrete floors. The insulation scheme for the ceiling and roof may vary slightly.

Preparing the attic begins with clearing the entire area of clutter and debris.

If there is old insulation, it is best to remove it too. It can create unnecessary load on the floors.

The next step is to carry out thorough isolation. This is necessary so that in the spring you do not have to remove the consequences of flooding. A special membrane is used for this. It is placed between the joists so that about four centimeters are screwed onto the sides of the joists.

The insulator must be pressed very tightly against the joists. It is usually fixed with a stapler or glue.

Wooden floor must have oxygen access on at least two sides.

After this, laying of the first layer of insulation begins. It is placed up to the joist level. Then the insulation is covered with a membrane, which has a low oxygen permeability. Then the wood flooring is laid. Special gaps are left for ventilation.

It is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the insulation.

In this case, it is worth considering the waterproofing layer. Often builders use material about fifty millimeters thick.

When carrying out insulation using polyurethane foam, you will need to call a specialist. The spraying process takes place under high pressure. Due to this, all the cracks are filled. The thickness of the layer is from ten to twelve centimeters.

Mineral wool as insulation has different thicknesses. Indicators depend on the volume of work. The layer of wool used as insulation can range from two to twenty centimeters.

Polyethylene foam is polyethylene foam.

The thickness of this material ranges from one millimeter to two centimeters. Polystyrene foam is laid in slabs. The thickness of one slab varies from two to ten centimeters. This happens because the material needs to be overlapped.

When insulating an attic, various materials are used for insulation. But the average ranges from fifteen to twenty centimeters. The layer of clay and straw is approximately ten centimeters. To ensure that everything is straight, you should use a special ruler or stick.

Thermal insulation options

There are only two options for insulating a cold ceiling and roof - either the ceiling is insulated inside the room, or the ceiling is insulated outside. Both of these options will perfectly help preserve heat and electricity in the house. Each of these options has its own set of necessary materials and installation technology.

Materials for thermal insulation are divided into two classes - vapor-permeable and vapor-tight. These readings indicate the ability to absorb moisture. It is for these reasons that one or another type of material is chosen for performing work on insulating a ceiling or roof. For work on external insulation use vapor-proof material, and for interior work– vapor permeable.

Mineral insulation is most often used inside. The work can be done using rolled glass wool. When combined with a plasterboard ceiling, you will get an excellent buffer for hot air. The insulation process is carried out at the time of installation of the suspended ceiling.

It will be correct if first a frame is made from profiles, in which the insulation will then be placed.

If the work is carried out with your own hands and on your own, do not forget about safety precautions.

Glass wool is a rather dangerous material. The methods for attaching glass wool to the ceiling are quite simple. The material is glued with tile adhesive. It is important that the glue dries as quickly as possible. After all the insulation has dried, it is covered with plasterboard.

It is worth remembering that cotton wool cannot be compacted or pressed.

Due to these features, it is attached with glue and not with screws. The entire thermal effect of mineral wool lies in the abundant amount of interlayers that are placed inside the wool.

During the work process, you should pay attention to the installation of lighting equipment. Spotlights tend to heat up quickly and when interacting with mineral wool they instantly fail. This occurs due to the accumulation of heat and the lack of any ventilation.

In this case, it is better to use chandeliers or sconces as lighting fixtures.

If the issue of spotlights is fundamental, then there is a way out of this situation. There is no thermal insulation layer placed around the planned lamp.

Another option would be a larger ceiling space. This is necessary so that there is an air cushion between the material and the drywall, into which the light bulbs are then mounted.

The least expensive option will be external insulation. In this case, it is worth carefully examining the condition of the ceilings. If they are old, they may simply not withstand the screed and collapse. If the attic space is not planned to be used, then the option of external insulation will be ideal.

Here it is important to follow all the rules and work technology. Otherwise the ceiling and corners winter time will freeze.

When working independently, it is important to remember the features and properties of each building material.

Externally, attic insulation is considered the most economical. There will be no need to install a suspended ceiling to hide the insulation. A significant advantage of this method of insulation is the possibility of later making an attic in this room. This is suitable for aerated concrete or wooden houses.

Many builders claim that external insulation is in many ways similar to floor insulation, but with a slightly different technique. After clearing the attic space, it is carefully measured around the perimeter.

After the foam sheets are laid, all joints must be covered with polyurethane foam.

If the home owners do not plan to use the attic for living space, then the insulation work can be stopped at this point. If a small warehouse or room is located in the attic in the future, you will need additional work. The insulation is covered with a layer of waterproofing material, reinforced, and then filled with screed.

It is possible to use mineral wool. After installation, it is recommended to cover it with a special film. True, when such thermal insulation is made, then in the future only wooden floors can be laid on it.

Insulating the ceiling is a very important process. Up to a quarter of all heat in the house escapes through this space. The process itself can be carried out using a dry or wet method. The second option involves the presence of a wet mass that adheres to the surface and forms a layer of sound insulation.

The attic space is protected from the street only by the roof. Therefore, such a room needs careful insulation.

It is advisable to check the moisture content of the material in summer and winter in several places. If an increase in humidity is not noted inside the insulation, then there is no need to worry about the quality of the work.

The easiest way to check is to inspect the roof in winter.

If the snow piles in the center of the roof or along the perimeter have melted a little, and large icicles are also hanging, then heat loss is obvious.

Everything that should have remained inside the house goes outside.

If the appearance of moisture is noted, then it is necessary to increase the air flow in the gap for ventilation. This is done by connecting to common system air exchange and its output to the roof. The second method is to blow the room with outside air. In such a situation, the presence of drafts in the attic is a very useful thing.

From the above it follows that the process of insulating the ceiling is quite simple. Both a novice master and an amateur builder can do this. The main thing is to lay the insulation correctly, bring lumber, make a counter-batten, put insulation and cover it all with a board. But still, some materials are better applied using special tools. To do this, you still have to turn to professionals.

When laying glass wool, you should contact a professional craftsman.

A mass of material poured by hand retains heat much worse. Such savings on the work of specialists will subsequently cost the owner of the premises much more.

In cases where the distance between different floor elements is greater, it is recommended to use roll-type mineral wool. Depending on the manufacturer, it is usually one meter wide.

It is important to know that insulation attic room is a smart decision. This will help reduce heat in the room in the summer and keep it warm in the winter.

Lovers natural materials should know several features. If there is no sawdust, you can use straw. In this situation, water is added to the clay until a wet mass is formed. Then wet straw is added to the composition and everything is thoroughly mixed with hands or feet.

When using sawdust, the composition must be left to dry for at least two weeks. At this time, there should be good ventilation in the room.

It is important to remember fire safety precautions. The insulation material must meet the standards. Its technical characteristics should include holding fire for a quarter of an hour in a private building and one and a half hours in an apartment building.

Preface. If you feel that your home heating costs are too high, especially if condensation forms on the ceiling and the ceilings become damp, then you need to insulate this structure. From this article you will learn how to inexpensively insulate the ceiling of a private house with your own hands and what materials are best used for thermal insulation of ceilings in the house. At the end of the article you will see video instructions from professionals.

By correctly using modern and traditional thermal insulation, you can maintain heat in the house on your own and increase the sound insulation of the structure. But, before you begin to insulate the ceiling in a private house from the inside with your own hands, you should figure out the most important question of how to insulate the ceiling in a private house and how best to insulate the ceiling - from the outside or from the inside. We will answer this question in this article.

How best to insulate the ceiling in a private house

As winter approaches, many owners of wooden and brick country houses begin to worry about issues related to the thermal insulation of residential premises and the insulation of steam rooms. The most important question is how to properly insulate the ceiling in a private house, since warm air always rises upward and it is through the ceiling that the greatest loss of heat occurs in a private house in winter.

As we have already noted more than once, insulate everything building construction only needed outside. Internal insulation should be used only in exceptional cases. External insulation will protect the structures being treated from freezing and rapid destruction during operation. When insulating inside warm room Moisture and mold will form between the thermal insulation layer and the wall.

Also, do not forget about the use of vapor barrier films. They are designed to protect the thermal insulation layer from moisture contained in warm air. If you lay the vapor barrier with the correct side to mineral wool or other insulation, all the moisture from the air will condense on the surface of the membrane rather than being absorbed into the insulation.

How to insulate a ceiling in a private house from the outside, from the inside

What material should I use to insulate the ceiling in a private house? Most often, mineral wool is used for thermal insulation of this structure. This insulation It is chemical and temperature resistant and does not emit harmful substances. Polystyrene foam and extruded polystyrene foam are also popular. Traditionally, sawdust or expanded clay were used to insulate the attics of bathhouses and houses in Russia.

If we talk about the required thickness of the thermal insulation layer, then everything depends on the material used. Let us remember that the greater the density of the insulation, the more it conducts heat and the thicker the layer is required. Do not rely on advice; calculate the thickness of the ceiling insulation in a private house using the thermal insulation calculator on the website.

Before starting work, you should prepare the materials that are used for thermal insulation of the ceiling of a private house: insulation - mineral wool, polystyrene foam, sawdust or expanded clay, waterproofing material– wind and moisture protective film, polyethylene, glassine, roofing felt or vapor barrier, boards, bars, nails, polyurethane foam. And the simplest tools: a hammer, a wood saw or an electric jigsaw.

How to insulate the ceiling of a private house with your own hands

So, the insulation of the ceiling in a private house is done from the attic side. To begin with, a waterproofing layer of moisture-proof film or glassine is laid on the ceiling. Rolled waterproofing is laid on the surface with an overlap of at least 5 cm on each side. Secure the material with a stapler or on nails using wooden planks.

How to insulate a ceiling in a private house with mineral wool

Glass wool or basalt wool in rolls, so that the mineral wool fills the entire space between the ceiling beams. It is best to lay several layers of mineral wool so that the second layer overlaps the seams of the first layer. A subfloor is laid on top if the attic is planned to be used further.

How to insulate a ceiling in a private house with polystyrene foam

The technology for insulating the ceiling in a private house with penoplex and polystyrene foam does not differ from the technology for using mineral wool. With only one exception - the use of vapor barrier is not necessary here, since polystyrene foam is vapor-proof. And the seams between the foam boards should be carefully sealed with polyurethane foam.

Insulation of the ceiling of a private house with expanded clay and sawdust

The technology of thermal insulation of attics of houses for many years has been associated with the use of sawdust and expanded clay. These traditional materials has been used for many years to insulate horizontal surfaces, due to its low cost and absence of problems with condensation. The beginning of work is associated with the installation of waterproofing made of roofing felt, film or penofol.

Thermal insulation of the attic from sawdust, as well as from expanded polystyrene, is often supplemented with mineral wool, which is laid on top of the first layer of insulation on the ceiling. A rough floorboard floor is laid on top of the thermal insulation. Do not forget that high-quality attic ventilation is necessary so that excess moisture can evaporate from the insulation.

How to insulate a ceiling in a private house from the inside

The best way to install mineral insulation on the room side is to install thermal insulation using a suspended ceiling. The basis is a frame made of metal profiles in increments of 30 centimeters. The frame must be properly secured to prevent the ceiling from collapsing. The mineral wool is inserted so that the mats are laid without gaps.

From the bottom of the frame, on the side of the warm room, a waterproofing film is stretched to protect basalt insulation from moisture absorption. Next, drywall is mounted on the frame. After covering the ceiling, all seams are taped with masking tape and puttied. After the seams have dried, the entire surface of the ceiling is puttied with an oil-based finishing putty.

Video. Do-it-yourself insulation of the ceiling of a private house

The need to independently insulate the ceiling of a private house often arises both for those who have already erected a building and for those who are still planning construction. Contrary to the belief that it is difficult to carry out such work on your own, insulating the ceiling is not difficult without the involvement of third-party workers - the owner himself can do this, having some skills and choosing the insulation for the ceiling (which is best suited for the given building).

The need to insulate the ceiling is by no means due only to the low temperature in the building in question. Sometimes higher value acquires humidity, which increases as a result of the temperature difference on the floors. The amount that has to be spent on additional heating to compensate for heat loss is also important.

How to insulate the ceiling in a house with your own hands will be described in detail below.

Before attributing low temperature problems in the house to the ceiling, it is worth deciding whether insulation is really necessary.

It is necessary to insulate the ceiling in several cases:

When considering how to insulate the ceiling in a private house, it is worth assessing all these factors.

It is not necessary to insulate the ceiling when:

General requirements for ceiling insulation

When deciding how to insulate a ceiling, you need to consider several rules:

How to insulate the ceiling?

When choosing insulation for the ceiling (which one is best), pay attention to the variety of materials, usually divided into 4 types: bulk, sheet, fibrous and liquid.

Among them are:

Expanded clay is a loose, lightweight clay-based insulation material. It does not burn, is environmentally friendly, is not afraid of moisture and has good thermal insulation. Rodents and pests are not interested in it, and they do not grow in this material.
Sawdust is a natural material, cheap, easy to use, but very attractive to rodents and a fire hazard. It can be used only after first thinking through the processing methods.
Mineral wool is a very commonly used insulation option, with excellent thermal insulation characteristics, but quite high hygroscopicity, so this insulation must be protected from moisture.
Ecowool based on cellulose. Eco-friendly and well-insulating material.
Polystyrene foam is easy to use and ideal for DIY installation. Non-hygroscopic and highly fireproof.
Penoizol is a polymer material that is an innovation in the range of insulation materials. Penoizol is filled into cavities, where it then hardens. The material is reliable, does not retain moisture and is safe against possible fires.

Penoizol - innovative insulation for ceilings

Types of buildings for ceiling insulation

You can decide how to properly insulate the ceiling, taking into account the type of building to be worked on. There are several of them:

brick buildings;
wooden buildings;
houses made of foam blocks.

The design and material of the floors will be of great importance when planning the insulation of both the ceiling and walls. Therefore, only by finding the optimal method of insulation can you safely and as simply as possible reduce heat loss.

Insulation installation options

You can decide how to insulate the ceiling in a house by evaluating all methods of installing materials.

There are 2 ways:

From the inside - a costly option in terms of time, effort, and money;
From above - that is, insulation of the attic. Less complex, less expensive.

It is worth insulating the ceiling from the inside at the stage of building a house, since you are unlikely to want to violate the integrity of the already created finish. Sometimes such serious work will not be required - it will be enough to sound and heat insulate the floor on the upper attic floor. This will be simple if you do not intend to make this floor residential and generally use it significantly (which means you will not trample down the insulation for the ceiling). In order to occasionally visit the attic without harm to the material, lay several ladders from boards.

Insulation works with different types of materials

Insulation with sawdust

Sawdust is an inexpensive way to enhance the insulation of your home. Having chosen this material, when deciding how best to insulate the ceiling, you need to pay utmost attention to its negative properties - the success of the entire work depends on how much you can level them out. The method of insulating attics in this way is quite well established - 20 years ago, sawdust or other porous available material was simply poured onto the floor of the attic, since it was not easy to find a worthy replacement.

Sawdust is a proven material for insulation

There are only 2 disadvantages of sawdust, but they are significant and obvious:

In addition, such insulation for the ceiling of a wooden house or other structure will make the attic inaccessible for use, because they are very fragile and susceptible to destruction when trampled.

To overcome the negative characteristics of this otherwise attractive material, care must be taken to properly treat it with means that prevent fire and animal reproduction. The simplest of these substances are lime and gypsum, with which sawdust is mixed before adding binders to coat the elements - cement and clay.

The general technology for insulating a house is as follows:

the ceiling should be covered with parchment (special);
floors and boards must be treated with fire retardants;
it is necessary to prepare a mixture of water, cement and sawdust, pour the resulting liquid insulation.

Insulation - foam plastic

Liquid foam is a very convenient way to insulate the ceiling

Analyzing insulation for the ceiling of a house, you understand that polystyrene foam is one of the best options that are inexpensive and available for independent use. Its advantages are very significant, although some details of its installation require strict adherence. Modern materials (spray foam, for example) make working with this insulation much easier - they allow you to maintain the tightness of the joints.

In combination with mineral wool, polystyrene foam becomes an even more effective insulation material, allowing you to create an ideal “barrier” for warm air.

Polystyrene foam has many positive qualities. Among them:

high sound and heat insulation;
moisture impermeability and resistance to negative external conditions and mechanical pressure (this insulation will not cake);
ease;
simplicity of the installation process;
versatility and strength (although remember that you should not compress the sheets - this will lead to a loss of heat-retaining properties).

All the advantages of polystyrene foam cannot cover several of its disadvantages, namely:

fire hazard;
exposure to rodents;
difficulties in adjusting to specific surface dimensions of foam sheets;
careful preparation of the floor and ceiling when using this material.

Sheet foam plastic is an affordable and convenient material for thermal insulation

The technology for insulating the ceiling with polystyrene foam is relatively simple; such work is carried out in two ways:

from the attic side - the sheets are laid in the space between the beams, and the joints are foamed. Then floor boards are laid on top of the beams.
from the ceiling side - foam plastic is glued directly to the slabs and the joints are sealed. The top of the ceiling is sewn into plasterboard or a stretch ceiling is installed.

Insulation with mineral wool

When evaluating insulation for the ceiling in a house (which is better or worse), we focus on affordability and ease of use. Mineral wool is an ideal material for these indicators, but even more effective, as already mentioned, is the combination with foam sheets.

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