Insulating the attic roof from the inside. How and with what to insulate an attic, what insulation to use

Heating your own home, especially in the cold season, is not cheap. Moreover, its effectiveness decreases if certain conditions are not met.

Many people, wanting to make their home warmer, focus mostly on its walls. This is unlikely to save you; you will still have to spend a lot on heating. Hot air will evaporate, rising up under the roof.

Before spending money on heating and heating the roof, it needs to be insulated, taking into account the structure of the residential attic floor and all the features of its operation.

Let's say you don't plan to make the attic roof residential. However, even in this case it is impossible to do without thermal insulation. To prevent the rest of the house from suffering from heat loss due to the cold attic, you need to insulate the entire attic floor, it is enough to just insulate the attic floor.

Let's still consider the option when you still plan to equip the attic for winter accommodation. But in this case, you can’t do without a properly insulated roof.

Dependence on climatic conditions

Thermal insulation materials for mansard roof and their possible uses largely depend on the region of your residence. In SNIP you can see the average temperatures of your climate zone. If the temperature in winter is not sky-high, then there is no need to insulate “Siberian style”. And, accordingly, vice versa. The lower the temperature in the region, the more seriously it is necessary to approach the issue of thermal insulation of the attic room.

Below is a list of parameters that must be taken into account when choosing a thermal insulation material:

• Materials used in the construction of walls
• Pediment (its thickness)
• Climate zone
• Roof type - mansard, pitched, etc.
• Existing load on the roof and ceilings

An insulated attic roof requires high-quality thermal insulation materials that will perform their functions well. But you can insulate the attic floor using simple materials, for example expanded clay filler and even sawdust.

Selecting material for insulating the attic floor

The most important criteria to take into account are:

• Service life declared by the manufacturer
• Thermal conductivity indicators (they should be as low as possible)
• Indifference from insects, rodents and all types of fungi, but at the same time the material must be environmentally friendly and safe for you
• Non-combustibility of materials is perhaps the most serious requirement for insulation; it cannot be neglected

You have a fairly large amount of work to do. After all, a residential attic needs insulation of roof slopes, ceilings, walls and floors. Otherwise, insulation will result in an unnecessary waste of money, and the result will not be achieved - the attic will remain unsuitable for living in the winter.

All of the above work is carried out from inside the attic room, and, naturally, this will reduce the volume of living space.

To avoid a large loss of attic floor area, you should choose materials with minimal thickness but good thermal insulation qualities.

You should also find out the approximate weight of the material. After all, it will be necessary to calculate the final load on the rafters and beams. This is necessary to understand whether they will withstand it or whether additional strengthening of the roof structure will be required.

Some insulation systems require the construction of additional structures made of wood and chipboard, and this creates additional load on the roof. Also keep in mind that some insulation without proper waterproofing can add weight.

Fastening methods. A slab of ordinary polystyrene is glued or attached to the surface with screws. For mineral wool and bulk materials, the board frame described above is required.

Pay special attention to waterproofing. After all, rain and snow come into contact, first of all, with the roof, creating the danger of moisture penetrating inside.
You should not think that waterproofing will take too much effort from you. After all, materials have long been invented that are not afraid of moisture. Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam are a prime example of this.

Insulation materials such as mineral wool should be waterproofed with foil or film. When exposed to moisture, this material will “gain weight”, turning into a wet lump. This can only be “cured” by replacement, which entails additional costs.

Also keep in mind that the series thermal insulation materials With a constant temperature difference, they lose their properties or are completely destroyed.

How to insulate an attic roof

The owner of the house can choose insulation to suit every taste and pocket for the construction of his attic. Expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and foam glass will perfectly cope with their direct responsibilities, and you will not be left without pants.

Polystyrene and expanded polystyrene lead the list of budget insulation materials. You can purchase it in slabs of the required size.

This material for insulating an attic roof is 90% air, and therefore its thermal conductivity tends to zero.

Polystyrene foam has one significant drawback - many of its modifications are flammable. But at the same time, the load on the roof will be minimal, the waterproofing qualities will be excellent, and it is also absolutely not susceptible to attacks by rodents and mold.

To ensure that the material does not have any disadvantages at all, purchase expanded polystyrene, which contains an ingredient that makes this material non-flammable. The worst thing that can happen to it is smoldering, but it is unlikely to lead to a fire.

Mineral wool has excellent environmental performance, being practically harmless to you. Materials of this kind are a product of processing other things that are harmless to humans, such as rocks.

It does not burn, perfectly insulates the space, and its service life will pleasantly surprise you. But this method of thermal insulation still has disadvantages.

As already mentioned, mineral wool can absorb moisture and become unusable if it is not waterproofed with film or foil. This leads to loss of body-insulating and thermal conductivity qualities.

When installing such material, be sure to protect yourself from getting the smallest particles of material on the skin and mucous membranes. Wear a mask and gloves, and do not allow gaps between clothing items. If installation technology is followed, glass wool can last up to half a century.

As we already wrote above, if your attic roof is not planned for living, then the process is greatly simplified, boiling down to thermal insulation of the ceilings alone.

Stages of floor insulation:

• Installing a wooden frame
• We fill in the gaps with expanded clay, sawdust, or lay mineral wool
• We put the insulation in several layers - this is necessary to cover the frame made of wooden slats
• We waterproof the thermal insulation with film, or with foil, both from below and from above
• We finish by laying boards for subsequent installation of the floor covering.

The thermal insulation is complete, now we have an additional room that can be used in the summer.

What to do if you plan to use the attic roof for year-round living?

Thermal insulation in in this case will be much more serious.

It will cover all attic space structures:

• roof slopes
• gable design
• floors

How to properly insulate an attic roof diagram

Insulation of the gable of the attic roof can also be done outside the house. We suggest doing this using polystyrene foam. The slabs are installed using glue, and the structure is reinforced with “umbrella” nails.

For further finishing of the insulated wall, we will apply plaster. Before applying the plaster, a special mesh should be used to strengthen the plaster.

Such thermal insulation of the attic roof from the outside will not steal part of your usable space. The service life of this structure will be measured in tens of years.

But let’s return to the question of how to insulate an attic roof from the inside, since unfortunately (or maybe fortunately) it won’t be possible to insulate the roof from the outside.

• First, we stretch the waterproofing material - this is necessary to protect our thermal insulation from moisture.
• Preparing insulation - if you use roll insulation, then it should first be cut into pieces with an ordinary stationery knife
• We lay insulation between the roof rafters, and if gaps form, seal them with adhesive tape or foam sealant
• We cover the laid insulation with waterproofing ( different kinds films and foil)
• The last step is cosmetic finishing of the attic, on top of the insulating material

Insulating an attic roof with your own hands is not a difficult process, but it requires strict adherence to instructions. Otherwise, you will experience moisture condensation on the surfaces of the attic when the temperature changes.

The presence of ventilation is very desirable in this case, because excess moisture can find a way out. Properly done waterproofing will not allow the insulation to absorb water.

By using insulation materials that are not susceptible to moisture, you save yourself from extra work on waterproofing installation.

Nevertheless, ventilation is extremely important. Vapors will circulate, passing unhindered through ceilings and walls.

Do not forget about such excellent insulation for attic roofs as polyurethane foam. It is easily applied to the surface that needs to be thermally insulated by spraying. When hardened, this material forms an almost ideal surface, without flaws. It will fill all the gaps and cracks. Polyurethane foam is absolutely not afraid of moisture, and therefore its service life will pleasantly surprise you. In the next 30-50 years you won’t have to think about insulation!

Approach the process creatively, but wisely. The reward for your construction exploits will be warm room under the attic roof. And your caring owner will turn it into a piece of paradise!

Do-it-yourself attic insulation video

A cold attic can be converted into a full-fledged living space. It differs from the attic in ceiling height - at least 2.5 m. Sometimes it protrudes beyond the living quarters and is supported on stilts. You can arrange an empty space yourself, following simple but mandatory rules. The arrangement of the attic should begin with the main thing - with insulation.

If the roof is already covered, insulating the attic from the inside may seem like a more complicated process. However, everything is not as complicated as it might seem, the main thing is to follow the order of work and choose the right materials.

The photo shows an insulated attic:

If the roof is already covered, insulation of the attic from the inside can be carried out at any time of the year and day. The disadvantage is the presence of hard-to-reach places that must be processed.

Waterproofing

The roof must be protected from moisture: atmospheric influence, condensate, steam, evaporation. Waterproofing must be of high quality - the service life of the entire roof depends on it.

The material should be laid directly under the outer layer of roofing, leaving a gap between them for air circulation.

Waterproofing must meet two requirements: prevent moisture from entering the building and serve for a long time.

Ordinary polyethylene film is not suitable - it promotes condensation and is not durable. It is better to use perforated film or “breathable” membranes. Rolls should be overlapped and glued into a single whole.

Vapor barrier

There is moist warm steam in the living room. To prevent it from penetrating into the insulation layer, a vapor barrier material is used. It insulates cold and warm air from each other. If you do not use a vapor barrier, the condensation will wet everything and it will lose its insulating properties.

A vapor barrier sheet is applied to the material from the side of the warm living room. It is important to combine it into a single whole.

Thermal insulation

When insulating an attic from the inside, thermal insulation is necessary to retain heat in the room. It depends on the thermal conductivity of the material used. The lower the thermal conductivity, the better material retains heat. Thermal conductivity depends on density and the presence of air bubbles.

Thermal insulation of the attic requires the use of vapor-conducting materials. In addition, the material must be elastic and dense and retain its shape when cut.

To achieve the goal (heat preservation), the thickness of the layer must be maintained. The greater the thermal conductivity, the larger the layer required.

Work order, technology

Work on insulating the attic roof from the inside is characterized by independence from external climatic factors and is carried out as planned on its own at a convenient time.

Warming stages:

1. Laying waterproofing.
2. If necessary, additional sheathing is installed.
3. Laying insulating material.
4. Installation of vapor barrier.

Schemes on how to properly insulate an attic:

Each stage is worth considering in more detail.

Laying waterproofing

The waterproofing layer must be continuous. The waterproofing is glued securely depending on the type. It is necessary to ensure that there are no holes left in the coating.

Lathing

The insulation is sized and must fit snugly between the rafters. Therefore, for large distances (more than 60 cm), additional lathing is done. Preferably everything wooden parts treat with primer.

Laying insulating material

Insulation is placed between the rafters according to the technology for each type. The piece should be 2 cm larger than the distance between the rafters for a tight insertion. If there are several layers, then the next one should overlap the joints of the previous one - so that there are no gaps.

Then the material is secured with a thread or cord. To do this, the thread is nailed with staples in a zigzag pattern to the sheathing along the edges of the insulation. The thread should cut into it - be very taut.

Installation of vapor barrier

Vapor barrier differs from waterproofing in that it does not allow not only moisture to pass through, but also steam. In the attic, the vapor barrier is laid from top to bottom. The overlap is marked by the manufacturer and is 100-150 mm. The side with the inscriptions on it is turned inside the room, with the smooth side facing the insulation.

The canvas is attached to the rafters with a stapler. Then it is glued with double-sided tape between the panels and additional tape on top along the joints. For better adhesion, the tape is heated with a hairdryer. At the fastening points, a counter-rail is nailed with staples. You can additionally install a laminate underlay underneath it.

How to insulate an attic roof: materials and technology

Insulation for the attic is selected depending on the following qualities: cost, elasticity and density, flammability, shape, ability to install independently without special equipment, service life and ability to absorb moisture.

Video on how to properly insulate an attic for winter living:

Minvata

Mineral wool is the most acceptable way to insulate an attic roof. It is made in the form of pressed fibers and small particles (glass, clay, stone, etc.), interspersed with air pockets.

Mineral wool for attic insulation has:

• increased sound absorption: rain, snow, hail, precipitation and wind will not disturb residents;
• resistance to low and high temperatures;
• unattractive to rodents;
• fire safety - does not burn well;
• harmless to people and the environment;
• good vapor permeability;
• density 18-45 kg per m³;
• resistance to fungi and mold;
• low price;
• different thicknesses of slabs and rolls;
• practical forms of release - plate and roll.

The material needs reliable and durable waterproofing, as it is able to absorb moisture. If this rule is observed, it can last up to 50 years.

Polyurethane foam

Sprayed polyurethane foam (PPU) requires special equipment for application and sufficient qualifications. It has 3 times more thermal protection than mineral wool and a higher cost.

Polyurethane foam has the same advantages as mineral wool. The insulation is applied in a continuous layer, without connecting seams, and adheres well to communication structures, complex shapes and niches.

Expanded polystyrene

Expanded polystyrene is air balls enclosed in a shell and connected to each other.

Advantages of expanded polystyrene for attic insulation:

• the material is very light - air makes up 98% of the material;
• easy to install;
• thermal conductivity is better than that of mineral wool;
• vapor permeability is minimal;
• the material is environmentally friendly, non-toxic;
• partially soundproof (muffles the noise of rain, but does not isolate wind and external noise);
• is not a favorable environment for the spread of mold, fungi and rot;
• fire-resistant (goes out on its own) - fire retardants are added to it;
• resistant to high low temperatures and their differences;
• has an infinite shelf life under proper operating conditions.

Penoplex

Penoplex (extruded polystyrene foam) has improved performance, as it is manufactured in a single block, without subsequent deformation. Penoplex slabs are laid between the rafters, and the joints are filled with polyurethane foam - there should be no gaps. After removing the remaining foam, the joints are glued with reinforced tape.

When insulating the attic floor with penoplex, no vapor barrier is required, since the material itself is absolutely vapor barrier. For an attic roof, a material density of 30-35 kg/m³ is suitable.

Foam

Foam (penoizol) – practical material, the main advantage of which is the ability to easily replace damaged areas of insulation, as well as filling all cracks and joints without gaps (tightness).

Foam – liquid substance(polymers), which upon contact with air forms a strong bubble structure, increasing in volume.

Advantages of insulation:

1. Fire resistance. Not only does it not burn, but it also helps stop combustion.
2. Low thermal conductivity. When insulating an attic roof, to achieve the effect you need a minimum layer in comparison with other insulation materials.
3. Soundproofing. External noises are completely cut off from the room, regardless of their source.
4. Safety and environmental friendliness. The foam does not produce harmful emissions, does not decompose and is safe upon tactile contact.
5. Convenience and ease of installation. Just press the spray gun (gun). The foam is easily fixed and adheres to any type of surface and in several layers.
6. Does not collapse under the influence of the environment: air, precipitation. Resistant to temperature changes. However, the sun's rays damage the foam; additional coating should be used.

The disadvantages of penoizol include:

• high price;
• use of special equipment for large volumes of work.

Equipment for applying foam can be disposable or reusable. Before applying the foam, you need to clean the surface between the rafters for better adhesion. The surface must be open. Next, you should install guides every 50 cm. These can be wooden slats or aluminum profiles. It is impossible to use ordinary metal without preliminary protection against corrosion.

When insulating the attic, the pitch of the rafters and their angle of inclination are taken into account.

The foam is applied in even strips 50-100 mm thick. When in contact with air, the volume of the insulation increases (foams).

The consumer has the opportunity to purchase ready-made foam blocks. In this case, the manufacturer fills molds with foam in production and sells the hardened product. The blocks are easy to cut. They are elastic and are inserted between the rafters in a similar way to mineral wool.

Sawdust

Insulation with processed sawdust is rarely used for attic insulation - mainly due to the complexity of installation. The advantages of insulation are availability and low price. In addition, processed sawdust has all the qualities of insulation: low thermal conductivity, sound insulation, durability, environmental friendliness, resistance to fungi and mold.

To insulate the attic, a layer of 15 cm is sufficient, no more than mineral wool.

Clean sawdust is not used; the composition is first prepared:

• sawdust - 10 buckets;
• cement - 1 bucket;
• lime - 0.5 buckets;
• antiseptic diluted in water (according to instructions).

All components will make the insulation fireproof and protect against rot and rodents.

The prepared mixture, squeezed in your hand, should not crumble and release even a drop of water.

The sawdust is compacted, so boards are gradually filled onto the rafters from bottom to top and the sawdust is compacted tightly. The solution should dry for 14 days in a constantly ventilated area.

The mixture may give sediment, then it is supplemented.

Ecowool

Ecowool is made from waste paper - old newspapers, magazines, paper and cardboard. They are carefully crushed and treated with special solutions and additives (including antiseptics). The material is environmentally friendly, non-flammable, has sufficient thermal conductivity (0.036-0.040 W/m² °C) and durability.

Ecowool is applied to closed space between the rafters using special equipment. The worker puts on a protective suit. Plywood or other sheets without gaps are fixed to the rafters. Then the sleeve is lowered into the mold and the space is gradually filled with insulation.

Other materials

Other insulation materials:

1. Basalt wool. It is a type of mineral wool with improved characteristics. Not damaged by fungus and mold. It has low thermal conductivity and is vapor permeable – the room “breathes”. Durable, does not cake, is not flammable. The only drawback is that it is damaged by rodents and requires protection from them.
2. Glass wool. It has fibers that are longer than those of mineral wool and is more elastic. Requires reliable hydro- and vapor barrier. It has a disadvantage - glass microparticles can enter the respiratory tract during operation. After installation it is absolutely safe.
3. Stone wool. It is considered the best among vats. However, the price is high.
4. Penofol. Made from polyethylene. Covered with foil on both sides.
5. Warming paint. It is used at joints and joints. Can be applied in several layers.
6. Airgel insulation. A new material with low thermal conductivity and high performance qualities. It is frozen smoke.

Another useful video on how to insulate an attic with your own hands:

Answers to popular questions

What is the best insulation for an attic under metal tiles?

Metal tiles do not place any special requirements on insulation. All types of mineral wool and foam plastics are suitable. The main condition is a sufficient layer of insulation, reliable waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Soundproofing insulation should be installed under a metal roof. Basalt wool and polystyrene foam have these qualities. In addition, roll and block insulation materials with a soundproofing substrate are produced.

How to insulate an attic if the roof is without waterproofing

If there is no waterproofing, it should be installed. With a cold roof, the absence of a hydrobarrier is not critical - if there is no difference in the external and internal temperatures, there will be no condensation, as well as ice dams.

If you install a roofing pie for a warm attic without waterproofing, the insulation will get wet and lose everything operational properties.

The waterproofing film can be laid from the inside, securely connecting the joints. In this case, the need for ventilation should be taken into account. roofing covering. Therefore, there must be an additional sheathing above the waterproofing film to create a ventilation gap. If there is no gap, roofing material laid on the rafters, it must be removed.

Waterproofing is laid on top, connected without gaps, sheathing is made and the roofing is installed.

How to insulate an attic from the outside

The outside of the attic has a standard roofing pie. Installation is carried out in reverse order. A vapor barrier is laid on the rafters, sheathing is made, and insulation is installed. The top is waterproofed, lathed and the roof is laid.

Insulating an attic roof: video instructions

The diagram shows the correct order of arrangement of elements of the attic roof thermal insulation system

What is the reason for this particular arrangement of layers? Elementary laws of physics. Let's imagine that in winter a decent layer of snow fell, which, by the way, is a natural heat insulator. As a result of the life activity of people living in an attic house, warm air will rise from the inside to the surface of the roof.

The snow covering it will melt. And as soon as the temperature outside drops below zero, a crust of ice forms, which no longer has any heat-insulating properties. The essence proper insulation The purpose of the attic roof is to prevent snow from melting in winter and scorching heat from penetrating in summer.

Diagram of air movement in the under-roof space, and the operation of the vapor barrier when insulating the attic roof

The rows are marked using a cord attached to a counter-lattice, which is located on opposite sides of the roof slope (read also the article: “Lathing step under corrugated sheeting”).

The desire of many owners of country houses to make maximum use of the space of the house forces them to pay attention to the attic. It often happens that it is easier to equip an attic than to expand the house by adding a residential building to it. Since the attic is part of the roof of the house, it is with the thermal insulation of the roof that the arrangement of the attic floor should begin. Let's look at how to properly insulate an attic with mineral wool and show you detailed video instructions on the topic.

You should insulate the attic with mineral wool and equip the attic for a room if the roof of the house allows the ceiling in this room to be of sufficient height and it is possible to strengthen the interfloor ceilings so that it is safe to walk in the attic.

If these two conditions are met, then you can safely begin to independently insulate the attic with basalt mineral wool for living in the winter.

We reviewed various brands of mineral wool, their purpose and characteristics in the section “Inorganic Thermal Insulation”. Therefore, we will not dwell on this topic separately.

• Features of insulation and materials for thermal insulation of the attic from the inside with your own hands
• Do-it-yourself methods for insulating an attic
• The procedure for insulating the roof and walls of the attic
• Wall insulation

An attic is an attic space equipped for human habitation or any household needs (greenhouse, office, etc.). Depending on what the room is intended for, its layout and the type of attic roof, the configuration may be different, but the general requirements in accordance with which the attic must be insulated from the inside remain the same.

Layout of insulation in the attic roof.

You need to understand that this room, unlike all the others, is colder, because... there is no “thermal cushion” on top. That is why insulation of the attic of a house from the inside, done with your own hands, must be of especially high quality. Based on this, you should choose the insulation material with which the insulation will be performed.

The difficulty is that the surfaces are uneven, because There are rafter beams under the roof that will have to be bypassed. The waterproofing layer will need to be brought under the roof in order for the condensate to drain. In the process of organizing work on insulating the roof and walls of the attic from the inside with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account that the end walls also need to be covered, because It is through them that a huge amount of heat escapes.

Attic insulation scheme.

Every a private house has its own characteristics, shape and configuration of the roof, material of the walls and roofing. Consequently, for each individual house there may be some special, clarifying recommendations, according to which you need to insulate the roof and walls of the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands.

To ensure high-quality and reliable insulation, you need to choose the right materials. The choice of material with which it is better to insulate the roof and walls of the attic of a house from the inside with your own hands depends on many factors: roof structure, roofing material, climate in the area, etc.

Polystyrene foam is one of the least expensive and most popular materials with which you can insulate the attic of a private house from the inside with your own hands. It is easy to process and install. However, it has low vapor permeability, which means the room may be damp. So, if the attic will be used as a living space, it is better to insulate it with another material.

Insulate correctly and efficiently residential attic You can do it yourself using polystyrene foam. When laying of this material there will be practically no joints.

Mineral wool is an excellent material in all respects.

Having high strength, basalt mineral wool is fireproof, practically does not conduct heat and does not absorb moisture. Since this material is elastic, it holds well in the installation site, resting its edges on the rafters. So it is best to insulate the walls of a residential attic from the inside with this material. you can properly insulate your home with mineral wool, even if you have never worked with this material before.

In addition to insulation, it is necessary to install waterproofing, vapor barrier and a ventilation system. A properly constructed waterproofing membrane will perform the following functions:

• ensure protection of structural elements from precipitation;
• prevent moisture from penetrating into the insulation.

Waterproofing must be laid on a layer of insulation. Among the waterproofing films, the following are distinguished:

• diffusion and breathing superdiffusion;
• anti-condensation waterproofing.

The vapor barrier consists of several layers of reinforced polyethylene film which provides good protection structures from condensation.

A ventilation system is needed to ensure the outflow of exhaust air and the influx of fresh air, and to effectively maintain normal air humidity in the attic room.

Attic insulation, diagram.

There are several methods according to which you can properly insulate the attic of a house from the inside with your own hands.

Insulation between existing rafters is one of the most commonly used methods. With this method, the insulation is laid directly on the waterproofing, to the entire height of the rafter legs. The slabs should be 10-15 mm wider than the gaps between the rafters.

Thermal insulation above the rafters. It is immediately necessary to carry out all the finishing work from the inside, and lay the thermal insulation material on the rafters under the roofing.

Another popular method is to insulate the attic under the rafters. This method is not used in residential construction and for low-rise buildings, however, for industrial buildings it is the best option.

There are also combined schemes. The most popular scheme includes insulation under the rafters and between them. In this case, the rafters themselves are completely overlapped. The vapor barrier film must be laid on top of a layer of thermal insulation material. Among the disadvantages, one can highlight a slight reduction in the usable space of the attic itself.

Attic insulation scheme: insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing.

To insulate an attic with your own hands, you will need following materials and tools:

• foam sheets or mineral wool;
• waterproofing film;
• wooden blocks;
• vapor barrier film;
• scissors;
• sharp knife;
• construction stapler;
• nails;
• polyurethane foam.

First of all, you need to lay waterproofing along the rafters. The film is laid along the entire height - from the bottom to the ridge of the roof. However, this is not done in all cases, because roofing material sometimes also serves as such an insulator. If the covering is made, for example, of roofing iron, it will be quite sufficient.

When installing this material, you need to remember that some distance should be left between it and the roof. This air gap is necessary to ensure high-quality ventilation at the installation site of the insulation. The thickness of the air gap depends on the covering material of your roof. If the material has a wavy shape (metal tiles, roof tiles), then the air gap should be at least 25 mm.

Another important point- the thickness of the insulator slabs and rafters may be different. If the slabs are “thinner”, the first layer is laid between the rafters, and the second must be laid on the rafters. If the slabs are thicker, wooden slats must be placed on the rafters.

To protect the thermal insulation material from excessive humidity, a vapor barrier must be applied on top. As you know, warm air tends upward and condenses there. That is why such protection is mandatory. Polyethylene film, glassine, foil materials, and roofing felt are used as materials for the vapor barrier layer.

Wall insulation

How to build a mansard roof - step by step guide

An attic, which makes it possible to effectively use the floor space of a private house, is a rather complex design. As a rule, homeowners entrust its construction to experienced roofers. But if you are skilled in carpentry and are not afraid of difficulties, then you can certainly cope with the task yourself.

To construct an attic floor instead of a conventional attic, the following types of roofs are suitable (shown in the diagram below):

• regular gable with a slope of 45° or more (steep);
• broken roof;
• four-slope, half-hip.

Note. As can be seen from the diagram, various half-hip roofings are complicated gable roofs, so there is no point in considering them separately. In terms of design, the multi-gable structure shown in the photo is of interest, but its construction requires considerable experience.

The gable mansard roof is the simplest to implement and is economical in terms of material consumption. But you will have to pay for this with a smaller usable area and sloping walls of the attached floor, which do not allow the placement of tall furniture. This will not be a problem if you plan to set up a bedroom in the attic - the beds will easily stand near the longitudinal walls. Another way to solve the issue is to raise the rafter system to the required height, as shown in the drawing below.

Roofing with broken shapes is the most popular option, since it allows you to create full-fledged living rooms upstairs. If you do not provide protruding windows on its slopes, then in terms of installation technology such a roof is not much more complicated than a gable roof, although the consumption of building materials will increase. To make your choice easier, we suggest considering and comparing the 3 most common options for an attic superstructure for a private home standard sizes 6 x 6 m:

1. Steep roof with two slopes inclined at an angle of 45°.
2. A broken structure, where the lower rafters are inclined at an angle of 60°, and the upper ones - 30°.
3. The same as option 1, only the trusses are raised to a height of 60 cm, and rafter legs stand at an angle of 37.5°.

For convenience, we depicted all three structures on one drawing, which can be taken as a basis for future construction.

Note. A board with a cross section of 50 x 150 mm was taken as the main building material for the manufacture of rafters and other frame elements.

To choose the best of the three options, we suggest studying the comparison table, which presents the parameters of attic rooms per 1 linear meter of building length.

Knowing the length of the roof slopes indicated in the plate, you can approximately estimate the consumption of building materials for the frame, covering and insulation. The following table makes it possible to estimate the total area of ​​the rooms on the second floor when implementing all 3 solutions in private houses with different sizes.

The rafters of a do-it-yourself attic must withstand the following loads throughout its entire service life:

• own weight;
• weight of roofing and insulation;
• maximum gusts of wind for a given area;
• snow cover pressure.

Reference. When the roof slope is more than 45°, the snow practically does not linger on it, and at 60° it is not taken into account at all in the calculations. But wind pressure increases due to the height of the structure and its position, which is close to vertical.

The result of the calculations should be 2 parameters - the cross-section of the rafters with beams (otherwise known as tie rods) and the pitch of their installation. It is a mistake to think that the size of the wooden beams of the roof grows along with the loads on it. Maximum structural rigidity is achieved through the use of roof trusses from logs with a diameter of 120-200 mm or lumber with a thickness of 40 to 200 mm, installed in increments of 50-120 cm. If you are not a civil engineer, you will not be able to more accurately determine these values, since the technique is quite complex.

We will explain the calculation method with an example. Let us assume that the snow load is flat surface(projection pitched roof) in your area is 100 kg/m², the slope is 60°, the span length is 4.5 m (before the brace), the rafter spacing is 120 cm. The roofing is slate. We count:

1. Real weight of snow cover: 100 x 0.32 = 32 kg/m². The slope coefficient of 0.32 is taken from Table 2 below.
2. The specific gravity of a slate covering with a regular profile is 25 kg/m².
3. General specific gravity– 32 25 = 60 kg/m².
4. We calculate the specific gravity per 1 linear meter of rafters, multiplying 60 kg/m² by an installation step of 1.2 m. We get 72 kg.
5. We return to table No. 1 and select the cross-section of the beam according to the span length. We accept a load of 100 kg per 1 line of rafters (with a margin). A log with a diameter of 140 mm, a board 40 x 200 mm and other materials whose dimensions are in the same horizontal line are suitable.

Reference. When installing a sloping mansard roof, 2 types of rafters are used - layered and hanging. On a gable roof, only hanging roofs are used; the difference between them is shown in the diagram.

The proposed method is suitable for small houses rectangular in shape with dimensions 6 x 6 m. To build a mansard roof on a large cottage, it is strongly recommended to contact specialist designers for calculations.

The simplified method presented below involves the installation of an attic sloping roof in 2 stages: assembly of roof trusses on the ground and subsequent installation on the finished walls of a timber or log house. The structural material is boards with a section of 15 x 5 and 10 x 5 cm with a standard length of 6 m.

Start of assembly - formation of the upper chord of the rafter system

The technology looks like this step by step:

1. Prepare the beams of the lower chord of the truss, taking into account roof overhangs of 25-27 cm on each side. If the length of the beam is not enough, it needs to be increased using an overlay of the same section, nailed.
2. Lay the beam on the ground and attach vertical posts to it with corners to form the walls attic room. Install the ceiling beam and the ridge support (headstock), then attach two hanging rafter boards to it and the corners of the frame for marking, as done in the photo.
3. Cut the elements into place and secure them. From the remaining parts of the boards, make layered (lower) rafter legs in the same way and nail them to the frame. The farm is ready.
4. Make the remaining trusses using the same method.

Advice. As a rule, windows or doors to the balcony are provided on the front gables. It is also convenient to make racks and belts for their installation on the ground, as well as to cover the openings with clapboard.

The finished frames are lifted onto the walls and fixed in place one by one, starting from the first gable. To prevent it from falling, install spacers and nail them to the walls of the log house. The second and subsequent trusses are placed in the design position and connected to each other with boards.

After placing the rafters, they must be secured to the walls in the following ways:

• staples to the second top crown of logs or beams;
• on steel corners and galvanized screws, as shown in the photo.

What is the best way to insulate an attic roof?

As mentioned above, the most popular material for insulating an attic roof is mineral wool. She is good, but not at all ideal: she is afraid of moisture. That is why it requires such careful protection from all sides so that it retains its properties.

The roof is sheathed with foam plastic or extruded polystyrene foam - EPS. Polystyrene foam (grades PSB-S-25, PSB-S-35) has good characteristics, but when burned it emits harmful substances, although there are self-extinguishing brands (with special additives). It is better to use them for roof insulation.

The main advantage of polystyrene foam: low price. It is easy to install: it is placed between the rafters, all joints are sealed with polyurethane foam. It’s convenient to insulate the attic from the inside with polystyrene foam: just order the slabs the right size- 10-15 mm more than the clearance between the rafters - and place them tightly. Due to their elasticity, they hold up very well.

A ventilation gap is also left on the roof side and waterproofing is installed. But it protects the wooden structure more, since polystyrene foam is not afraid of moisture, practically does not absorb it, and does not conduct steam. This is where the main drawback lies. Since the material does not allow steam to pass through, it is necessary in the attic good system ventilation, and this is an additional cost.

EPPS has the best characteristics: under equal conditions, its thickness is two times less than mineral wool of the specified density and one and a half times less than that of polystyrene foam. It also has a locking system that reduces the risk of gaps through which heat can escape. Another plus: extruded polystyrene foam is not liked by mice and insects; fungi and mold do not grow on it. What limits its use: a respectable price. You also need a ventilation system.

EPS brands - Ekstrol, STIREKS, PENOPLEX, URSA XPS, Technoplex, PRIMAPLEX, Styrofoam, KINPLAST, Teploizolit, GREENPLEX. Although the technology is the same, there are some differences in characteristics, so compare when choosing.

Appeared not long ago new type insulation: foamed polystyrene foam. It is applied in liquid form to the surface, reacting with air, increasing in size many times, filling all the cracks and forming a monolithic layer. This is, perhaps, the only way today to correct the situation and efficiently insulate the attic if, when installing the roofing, they forgot to lay a layer of waterproofing.

Ecowool

This insulation has good characteristics (thermal conductivity coefficient 0.036-0.040 W/m² °C), but has a special application technology. It is necessary to organize a closed cavity into which the composition will be poured. In the case of an attic roof, the side parts are rafters, nailed to them from below and above sheet material(Fibreboard, GVL, plywood, etc.).

A feeding sleeve is launched into the formed cavity, from which loosened cotton wool emerges under pressure. It fills all cavities, forming a single layer of insulation.

The main advantage of ecowool compared to all the insulation materials described above: it conducts vapor. It can absorb moisture up to 20% of the volume and then release it. That is, there is no need to organize a vapor barrier: humidity is regulated naturally, as is the case with wood. The ventilation gap between the roof and the insulation should be the same, as should the properly organized movement of air masses in it.

There are four most important criteria based on which it is necessary to choose high-quality insulation for an attic roof:

• Thermal conductivity;
• Moisture resistance;
• Fire safety;
• Ecological cleanliness.

The first parameter can be called decisive, since its thickness, number of layers, and most importantly, efficiency depend on how low the thermal conductivity of the material you choose is.

Important: Insulation for an attic roof with a thermal conductivity coefficient of no higher than 0.05 W/m*K can be considered sufficiently high quality and reliable.

The second indicator is also important, especially for an attic rafter system made of wood. The resistance of the insulation to moisture will allow you to worry less about the possibility of damage and rotting of the wood. Why fire safety of insulating materials is important is probably unnecessary to say. And finally, the environmental friendliness of the insulation in the case of attic rooms is also of great importance, especially if it is a bedroom or a children's room in the attic.

Comparative table of building and finishing materials indicating their thermal conductivity coefficient

As follows from the figure above, insulation of the attic roof with ecowool - perfect solution, since this mineral insulation meets all four material selection criteria. However, it cannot be called the most affordable, so many craftsmen refuse to use ecowool in favor of cheaper, but no less effective insulation materials.

• Basalt wool;
• Glass wool;
• Extruded polystyrene foam;
• Styrofoam.

First, let's consider the most important question - what is better to insulate the attic with foam plastic or mineral wool. Let's determine which thermal insulation material is suitable for proper insulation of the roof of the attic floor.

To do this, the following parameters should be taken into account: thermal conductivity coefficient, resistance to high temperatures and moisture, fire safety, environmental friendliness and light weight.

Most of the listed requirements are met by fiberglass or mineral wool. Unlike basalt insulation, Technoplex polystyrene foam does not withstand high temperatures and is a highly flammable material.

Knauf glass wool and Rocklight basalt wool are fire-resistant and fireproof materials, and with high-quality vapor barrier, mineral wool will not be afraid of moisture.

Comparison building materials by thermal conductivity

Mineral wool is made from natural material – basalt. The material has a density from 18 to 45 kg/m³ and has good heat-insulating and sound-absorbing properties.

When the question arises about insulating a roof structure, the first thing to consider is all kinds of materials that are intended for such purposes. Which insulation is best for an attic roof?

Taking into account all the individual design parameters, a material is selected from those offered on the market in accordance with their characteristics.

When choosing a material, it is worth starting from the individual situation, because some of the disadvantages of the material in a certain situation become advantages.

These types of materials are the most popular, especially for the DIY insulation process. They are characterized by a high level of thermal conductivity and fire safety.

Laying the insulation is quite simple, and there are no gaps between it. During operation, the shape remains the same and does not change, which ensures a long service life.

In addition, the sound insulation properties of these types of insulation are also at a high level. The cost of insulation is low, but it is safe to use and environmentally friendly.

Their differences lie in the raw materials used for production. The mineral variety is made from molten rocks, and glass wool is made from molten glass. Regarding the thermal threshold, glass wool has a lower threshold than its mineral counterpart, but is resistant to freezing.

The characteristics of these insulation materials also have disadvantages that should be taken into account when choosing. Due to the fact that the level of moisture and vapor absorption is quite high, when wet it loses most of its properties, which leads to the need for a complete re-equipment of the roof insulation layer.

An attic is a comfortable attic, which is often used as a living room or additional technical room. It differs in that it requires enhanced thermal insulation, since it has a large contact area with the cold atmospheric environment.

Depending on the purpose of using the attic, insulation materials are chosen that differ in the degree of thermal conductivity, density, and flammability. Let's figure out how best to insulate the attic so that it turns from a cold attic into a room suitable for living or storing things.

No matter how large the room is, there is always a need for one more room - a guest bedroom, a playroom, a gym, or just a convenient storage room.

By regulatory documentation, the attic is a room formed by a facade and roofing. According to sanitary standards, the distance from the floor to the line of intersection of the wall with the roof should be at least 1.5 m, and to the ceiling - 2.5 m. In this case, the area with a “high” ceiling (2.5 m or more) should occupy 50% of the total area attics.

It is obvious that in private housing construction there are deviations from the standards. For example, the configuration of the attic space can be influenced by factors such as the shape and size of the roof: houses with a high roof have higher attic ceilings, but the floor area is narrower.

To increase the size of the attic, they resort to various techniques: increasing the height of the lower tier of the sloping roof, making the facade walls higher.

However, with all the advantages of an additional comfortable room, there are nuances that increase the cost of construction and finishing work:

• window installation;
• hydro- and thermal insulation.

The last point is also important because literally everything will have to be insulated: the floor, gables, walls, often consisting of two parts - the facade and the roof. At the same time, the same requirements apply to thermal insulation materials as to insulation for residential premises. In addition to suitable technical characteristics, they must be absolutely safe.

An example of how the shape and height of the roof can affect the size of the attic - therefore, the features of the under-roof space must be taken into account when planning the living space

Review of thermal insulation materials for roofing

Today on the market you can find everything: from long-proven glass wool to natural and foil materials, which are still less commonly used in practice. Let's consider the best way to insulate the walls and floor of the attic from the inside, so that attic space It became warm, and there was no need to make repairs in the near future.

Option #1 – glass wool

Glass wool has gained popularity due to its low cost, so if you want to save on thermal insulation, you can use rolled mats or slabs that are more convenient for installation. The raw materials for production are specially purified quartz sand and glass industry waste.

In addition to affordable cost and light weight, the material has the following advantages:

• elasticity, which allows you to lay slabs or mats with a tight fit to each other and to the rafters;
• flexibility, useful for insulating complex roof areas;
• unattractiveness to rodents, which is explained by the lack of natural materials in the composition.

However, there are also plenty of shortcomings. For example, these include high hygroscopicity, which requires the use of vapor barrier on the inside and ventilation to evaporate moisture on the outside.

Due to its fragility, fiberglass breaks down and tiny particles of dust spread into the air, creating a hazardous environment for health. In addition, dubious companies use formaldehyde as a binder in production, so it is better to use a more expensive but safe material.

Option #6 – sprayed polyurethane foam

Spraying foam thermal insulation on the inside of the roof is an excellent opportunity to create seamless, durable insulation without cold bridges and seams that require filling. One of the highest quality “sprayers” is polyurethane foam, which creates an effective thermal insulation layer.

Advantages of sprayed insulation:

• thermal conductivity coefficient – ​​0.03 W/m×°C and less;
• optional use of vapor barrier;
• good adhesion to various surfaces;
• lack of preliminary preparation;

The thin but dense layer created by hardened polyurethane foam is also an excellent soundproofing protection, which is important for an attic used as a bedroom.

Many owners of old houses are thinking about expanding their living space by adding an attic. However, they immediately wonder what to do if the roof is already covered, but the attic still needs to be insulated. In this case, the decision to carry out insulation work from the inside comes to the rescue.

Peculiarities

The process of insulating an attic from the inside cannot be called easy. To do this, you need to know the specifics of the roof structure, as well as understand whether your existing roof is suitable for insulation. Indeed, not every attic can be converted into an attic space, especially if the roof is already covered.

There are three situations in which the roof can be constructed:

• There is only a ventilation gap between the rafters and the sheathing. In this case, the roof is considered completely unsuitable for insulation. You will have to completely disassemble the roof structure to insulate it.
• A polyethylene film is laid between the sheathing and the rafters, acting as a vapor barrier. Such solutions can be considered optimal, and the roof can be considered fully prepared for subsequent work on its insulation.
• A diffusion membrane is laid between the rafters and the sheathing. Option similar to the previous one. The presence of a waterproofing layer is evidence that the roof is prepared for insulation from the inside.

Thus, main feature is the preparedness of the roof for further insulation.

Insulation materials

Thermal insulation of the roof of a private house, summer house, cottage can be done using various means. There are liquid materials, elastic ones, and even those that have a relatively high density.

Before you start making your choice, be sure to pay attention to the roof structure. It often happens that not every material is universal, so it is better to be safe. The simplest example is the insulation of gable and sloping roofs: if almost any insulation is suitable for a simple gable structure, then not all of them are suitable for a sloping roof.

If we do not consider liquid insulation, the rest are sold in two forms - in slabs and in rolls. As you might guess, the slabs contain dense insulation, while the rolls contain fibrous insulation.

It should be noted that Not all options available on the market are suitable for insulation from the inside.. This is due to the fact that it is much more difficult to insulate the attic from the inside due to the existing rafters. This increases the need to level cold bridges.

Materials for internal thermal insulation should be considered in more detail.

Styrofoam

Ordinary polystyrene foam is one of the cheapest materials. It is sold in ready-made slabs, which makes it easy to use. Despite the fact that polystyrene foam is a budget thermal insulation solution, it has many advantages.

So, polystyrene foam is not hygroscopic - it absolutely does not absorb water and moisture. To increase water-repellent characteristics, it is enough to treat it special means , which will clog the pores on the surface, and water will simply flow down the foam boards.

It should also be borne in mind that the foam has very low weight due to the presence large quantity voids between the granules and its components. This makes it possible to handle the insulation work alone. Lightness has the further advantage of easing the load on the roof structure.

Polystyrene foam does not conduct heat well, as a result of which we can safely say that it perfectly insulates the attic. The ease of working with it is another significant advantage of the material: you can cut the material, cutting out pieces of the desired size, with an ordinary stationery knife.

However, there are also some disadvantages. Firstly, the foam does not “breathe” at all, which can cause condensation to form. Secondly, polystyrene foam is susceptible to damage by pests, in particular rodents. Third, cannot be decorated with polystyrene foam wooden floors, since over time the wood will shrink and gaps will appear between the foam boards.

How to insulate an attic with polystyrene foam is described in the following video.

Penoizol

Penoizol, or urea-formaldehyde foam, is a liquid version of polystyrene foam. The insulating solution is prepared immediately before use. Its difference from many other installation compositions, for example, polyurethane foam, is that during the hardening process it does not expand, maintaining its original appearance and condition.

The mass resembles white foam, similar in appearance to shaving foam.

Liquid foam is often used to insulate roofs and attics during the construction phase, but can also be used after the roof has been laid. Among other things, it can be used to additionally insulate the walls and floor of the attic.

The vapor permeability of the material, like that of its dense counterpart, is almost zero, which makes it imperative to take care of adequate roof ventilation. However, the material does not conduct heat, so it copes with its main function – thermal insulation – perfectly. So if you do all the work properly, thermal insulation using foam insulation will be a worthy and budget solution.

Extruded polystyrene foam or penoplex

Despite the fact that polystyrene foam and expanded polystyrene belong to the same group, the second is more practical. This is largely due to the specifics of installation. So, polystyrene foam covers the rafters, which results in better tightness. Expanded polystyrene boards are easily fixed to each other using glue. Due to its low weight, installation can be done independently.

The material has a long service life, but it does not rot and is not attacked by rodents. The only serious drawback is the flammability of the material. You will have to take care of additional insulation of the electrical wiring, because one spark can lead to a strong fire.

If no communications are planned for the attic, expanded polystyrene will become excellent choice, especially considering that it can be coated with any finishing material. It is also compatible with wood, metal, and any roofing coverings.

Minvata

Mineral wool often acts as an alternative to penoplex. This material is a roll material, which is due to the ease of installation of heat insulators supplied in this way. Mineral wool has a fibrous structure, which fundamentally affects some of its properties.

So, mineral wool is an elastic material that is attached between the rafters. In this case, additional fastenings are not required, it is enough to just cut the wool slabs 2-3 cm wider than the portal into which the insulation will be inserted.

Rodents do not attack cotton wool, so you don’t have to worry about the integrity of the insulating layer. Mineral wool, however, belongs to the category environmentally friendly insulation materials. Among other things, it guarantees excellent thermal insulation, despite the fact that it does not absorb moisture, and even if it gets wet, it will dry in record time. It is also better to use fibrous material if it is necessary to additionally soundproof the attic from surrounding street noise.

Read more about insulating the attic with mineral wool in the next video.

Glass wool

Glass wool is one of the varieties of mineral wool, but the difference is obvious. First of all, it is worth noting that the materials are made from different fibers. Fiberglass is used here. Thanks to this, the material is more elastic and durable. In addition, glass wool has better noise-absorbing characteristics. At the same time, it is hydrophobic - it absorbs moisture well, but dries poorly, as a result of which, when wet, it quickly loses its performance properties.

Many are afraid that the use of glass wool for thermal insulation purposes within a living space will lead to harmful consequences. Actually this is not true. If all finishing work is carried out correctly, then no harm will be caused to health. On the contrary, glass wool is even safer than penoplex because it does not burn.

However, the material requires care when laying it. It will be necessary to take all safety measures, protecting the organs of vision, respiratory tract and skin from glass dust.

Stone wool

Among all insulating wools, stone wool is more expensive than its analogues, and all thanks to its special properties. Compared to others, it itself is safe and practically devoid of the disadvantages inherent in other samples. It is the most environmentally friendly of all, it is not afraid of elevated temperatures, since it does not ignite, and also does not deform under the influence of heat.

Stone wool perfectly blocks all extraneous sounds, while its sound-absorbing characteristics are an order of magnitude higher than those of other wools. Another advantage is the good vapor permeability of the material. It “breathes”, so condensation cannot form on it.

Stone wool can last for a long time. Such good performance properties are due not only to the strength properties of the material, but also to its ability to resist mechanical stress. Even if you squeeze it, it does not deform.

Cotton wool is sold in the form of soft slabs that can be easily cut into desired formats if necessary. The only existing drawback is the high price, but the material is worth the money.

Ecowool

Ecowool is very different from other wool in the form of sale. If other analogues are supplied in rolls or slabs, then ecowool is first crushed and then applied by spreading the material using special equipment. It is believed that this way it will better seal all existing cracks, forming a monolithic insulating coating.

There are two disadvantages here. Firstly, you need to apply ecowool using special tools. Secondly, the cost of the material cannot be called affordable either.

Polyurethane foam

Foamed polyurethane foam also needs to be applied using special devices, which are quite expensive.

To avoid unprofitable purchase expenses, it is easier to lease equipment - rent it.

The use of equipment and the application technology itself are quite complex, so when working with the material it is necessary to have at least some experience and knowledge on this issue.

Polyurethane foam is most similar to polyurethane foam, since it has a similar operating principle. It expands in the same way when it hardens, completely closing all the cracks and gaps through which cold wind can penetrate or precious heat can escape. After hardening, the material becomes monolithic and smooth. This feature indicates that it does not absorb moisture, so you can do without the construction of additional hydro- and vapor barrier layers.

Polyurethane foam does all this perfect choice regardless of what material the roofing and ceilings are made of. Optimal solution when working with it, invite a team of specialists who will complete the installation in a few hours using their own equipment, doing everything in compliance with technology.

Penofol

Penofol is the only foil insulation of its kind. It is produced in the form of slabs of polyethylene foam, coated with an aluminum layer on one or both sides. Aluminum reflects heat, returning it back into the room, so heat loss is kept to a minimum.

However, it is important to ensure that when laying, the foil side is facing inward to the room and not outward.

Penofol is absolutely safe for humans and animals, although it is not a natural material. Thanks to the aluminum coating, it does not conduct heat, which gives grounds to assert the excellent thermal insulation properties of the material. Among other things, it may not be necessary to make a vapor barrier for this material, since correct installation it does an excellent job of vapor barrier itself thanks to its special texture.

If you plan to use the attic for permanent residence, then you will not regret choosing penofol.

Preparing the premises

Having decided to insulate the attic from the inside, you first need to properly prepare the room itself for work. Keep in mind that not every attic is suitable for insulation. Check whether the ceiling height is 2.5 m in more than 50% of the entire attic area. If not, then there’s no point in insulating it – you won’t be able to live here anyway.

Next, remove all existing sheathing material, exposing the rafters. The insulation will be installed either on top of them or between them. Check the condition of the roof, as well as the presence of vapor and waterproofing layers. Keep in mind that a roof with leaks must first be corrected, and only after that can you proceed to insulation work.

It is important that they are in good condition, had no gaps except for ventilation.

Vapor barrier

When creating an attic floor for winter living, especially if the winters in your area are harsh, the first thing you need to do is check for a vapor barrier. As a rule, it is done immediately when the roof is installed, even if there are no plans to use the space under it as an additional room in the future. If there is no vapor barrier, then the roof will have to be redone from the outside, dismantling the roofing materials. Unfortunately, it is impossible to lay a vapor barrier layer from the inside, because it must lie between the rafters and the counter-lattice.

Can be used to create a vapor barrier various materials. All of them have their advantages and disadvantages, as well as specific combinations with insulating materials. All this must be kept in mind when moving on to insulation work, so it makes sense to dwell on vapor barrier materials in more detail.

In addition, this will help you make a choice if the roof of your house does not yet have a vapor barrier layer.

Polyethylene film

Despite the cheapness of the material, many builders strongly do not recommend using it. This is due to the fact that it is unsuitable for creating a vapor barrier layer in Russian realities. The material does not “breathe” at all: it does not let in not only moisture, but also air, and this creates problems with circulation and, accordingly, Greenhouse effect. Thus, condensate cannot evaporate and, flowing down, ends up on the thermal insulation.

Therefore, if your home has a vapor barrier made using polyethylene film, avoid purchasing water-absorbing insulation materials, such as glass wool.

Over time, the film tends to deteriorate and crack, so after a short period of time you will still have to completely disassemble everything in order to replace the fragile material that has served its purpose.

Glassine

Glassine is suitable for both steam and waterproofing, which is why it has received universal recognition. However, we will have to act in two directions here. Firstly, a layer of glassine will need to be laid between the roof and the counter-lattice, and secondly, on the insulation from the side of the room. If all work is done correctly, this will guarantee reliable protection and an optimal microclimate in the attic. On top, between the roofing and the counter-lattice, a double layer of glassine should be laid. Only then can the optimal effect be achieved.

Glassine is mostly needed to protect the insulation from moisture, so any material can be chosen as an insulation material. Try to choose options that do not deform under the influence of temperature changes, and are also not susceptible to rodent attacks. Both cotton wool and penoplex options are perfect.

Ruberoid

Ruberoid has been used as a vapor barrier since the times of the USSR, so in old houses you can find just such material between the roof and rafters. Nevertheless, If possible, such a layer will need to be dismantled. This is due to the fact that roofing felt is a rotting material, and in accordance with the standards it cannot be used for hydro- and vapor barrier in buildings with a long service life.

If you decide to leave the roofing material, then you should not expect good vapor barrier qualities from it. For this it is better to lay an additional layer of special vapor barrier material, at least the same plastic film.

It is worth keeping in mind that condensation may accumulate on the roofing felt on the inside, which will lead to the insulation getting wet. So, if the insulation is temporary (for example, it is carried out in winter, and in the spring it is planned to redo everything), then foam plastic can also be combined with roofing felt.

Izospan

The material isospan consists of polypropylene. It is one of the most recommended for the construction of vapor barriers due to the fact that it was developed only for these purposes.

Izospan collects condensation and subsequently prevents it from getting on the insulation. The double-sided texture of the material is responsible for this. On one side it is smooth, and on the other it is a little rough. On the rough side, condensate droplets are retained and evaporate. With the help of isospan, not only the roof, but also the walls of the attic are vapor-insulated.

Depending on the properties of isospan, the labeling varies. The most expensive, but also materials with energy saving effect FB, FS, FD, FX are considered effective. They have a foil coating that reflects heat back into the room, thereby reducing heat loss to almost nothing. At the same time, the special texture still prevents condensation from rolling off and damaging the insulation.

Waterproofing membrane

You should not attribute to waterproofing membranes all the same properties that are inherent in specialized vapor barrier films. Indeed, both of them collect and evaporate condensate, but the main task of waterproofing membranes is to protect the house from moisture, and not from steam. In addition, waterproofing membranes have a wider range of applications: from insulating attics and basements to protecting swimming pools.

Waterproofing membranes are available in different types. There is diffusion, super-diffusion, and also anti-condensation, which is more suitable than others for a vapor barrier role. If you find one of these membranes after disassembling the cladding material, consider yourself very lucky.

You can lay any insulation without fear that it will get wet and quickly lose its quality. In addition, the microclimate in the attic will be excellent.

Penofol

Penofol is both an insulating and vapor barrier material. However, it can only be laid when a waterproofing membrane is found between the roof and rafters.

The reflective foil surface itself will collect condensation and help it evaporate, but the second “bare” side should be well protected from moisture. Only in this case will the variety cope with both steam and thermal insulation.

Material consumption

The calculation of the material is made at the stage of inspecting the roof for damage. Here it is important to take into account the pitch between the rafters and the distance between the vapor barrier and the internal space. The number and thickness of the slabs depends on the internal space: whether the thermal insulation will be laid in one layer or in several. The size of the slabs depends on the distance between the rafters.

Please note that if the pitch between the rafters is more than 60 cm, then you will need to prepare additional sheathing yourself to make fixing the thermal insulation possible.

As for sprayed insulation, in this case it will be necessary to calculate the volume. You will first need to clarify such data as the expected thickness of the thermal insulation layer, the perimeter of the rooms and the height of the walls, as well as the density of the insulation. We must not forget about the presence of windows and doors. It is best to use a special calculator.

Insulation scheme

Since when insulating an attic, the roof is mainly insulated, it makes sense to consider the layering scheme only for it.

If you start from the outside, the pie will look like this:

• There is roofing material on top that is not touched. Underneath it there is a sheathing and a counter-lattice, which serve as a frame.
• Further layer goes hydro- and vapor barrier, which is also the original.
• A layer of insulation is laid under the waterproofing. Depending on the width of the step between the rafters, additional sheathing can be constructed here.
• A vapor barrier layer is attached to the side of the room to protect the insulation.
• Finally, finishing is done.

How to insulate with your own hands?

To insulate an attic with your own hands from the inside, you need to keep in mind the plan for placing the layers one after another, and also follow the following step-by-step instructions:

• It is necessary to retreat slightly from the existing waterproofing layer, leaving an air opening. This will allow the insulation to “breathe”.
• After this, the insulation is installed. Depending on the material, it can be laid between the rafters or on them, and also sprayed. How something should be handled insulation material, it is written in the instructions for it.
• Next, install a vapor barrier film. If a gap between it and the insulation is possible, then the connection to the walls, ceiling and, in the case of an attic, to the floor should be airtight. Otherwise, condensation will form on the side of the film that faces the insulation, but this should not happen.
• At the last stage, finishing is carried out. You can choose from many options, but usually purchase drywall, lining or MDF boards.

• It is better to buy cotton insulation not in rolls, but in mats, so they will not require time for “tracking”;
• to insulate the floor you need to choose polystyrene foam or other inexpensive material;
• the insulation does not require additional fastening, but if necessary, you can use nails, adhesive tape or a construction stapler for this.