Water heated floor in an apartment: design, advantages and disadvantages. Warm floors in an apartment: how to choose: convenient and comfortable heating Water heated floors from a hot water riser

If during the autumn-winter cold weather the room still remains cool, you should think about how to keep warm using radical methods. Today, such an opportunity as installing a heated floor with a liquid coolant has proven itself. The water heated floor system in the apartment is gradually replacing classic heaters and fans.

Installation of a warm water floor in an apartment

A water-heated floor in an apartment is a self-sufficient design that effectively heats a room of any size, even in severe frosts. Warm liquid coming from a gas boiler or system circulates through polymer pipes central heating. The air in the room heats up, and as it rises, it evenly distributes heat throughout the entire area of ​​the room.

This allows you to create the most optimal and comfortable conditions, thanks to which you don’t have to worry about hypothermia in your feet, while at the same time the temperature near the ceiling decreases somewhat. Doctors say that this thermal regime is most suitable for good health.

This type of design is:

• flooring (laminate, tiles, etc.);
• laying layer;
• a pump that circulates water;
• heater;
• polymer pipes;
• fasteners and distribution manifolds.

This heating option increases the service life of the finishing floor covering and makes it possible to use original design solutions in the interior.

Is it possible to make a water heated floor?

The question often arises: is it possible to install water-heated floors in multi-storey buildings? Today, legislative acts prohibit changes that relate to various improvements to pipeline circuits in housing stock where there is central heating. It can give an increased load, which was not taken into account at the time of designing the house. Forced circulation will be required and sufficient complex installation special pump.

But, theoretically, such systems can be installed in any room, the main thing is not to upset the balance of water flow and comply with the conditions for dosing heat consumption. In addition, in new buildings the layout provides for the presence of risers for connecting TVP.

To make the installation of a structure in an apartment legal, special permits from a representative of housing and communal services and heating networks will help. Required documents will be issued only after checking the premises and agreeing on the equipment necessary for further use. Unauthorized connection of a heated floor may result in fines, litigation and other troubles:

• if necessary, it will not be possible to sell the apartment legally;
• if a circuit break occurs and the apartment of the neighbors below is damaged, all repair costs will have to be paid in full.

Before making a water heated floor in an apartment, you should calculate the possible consequences and negative risks, take into account the positive and negative qualities this modernization.

Advantages and disadvantages of water heated floors

Compared to alternative heating systems, a warm water floor has a number of undeniable advantages.

• Economical. Water that has a low temperature reduces heat consumption in residential buildings by 20-30%. In spacious rooms with above-average ceiling heights, savings reach about 60%.
• Safety. Heating elements hide the screed and layer of flooring. The risk of burns and injuries is completely eliminated. This also applies to facts involving long contacts with a warm surface. The likelihood of fungus appearing is reduced to zero, since there are no areas of high dampness.
• Convenience. It is very pleasant to walk on such a floor without slippers, and you also don’t have to worry about the health of children who want to play on the floor.
  The humidity level remains virtually unchanged and the air does not dry out. The room is heated evenly, which allows you to obtain temperature conditions that are optimally suitable for humans.
• Visually aesthetic interior. The system does not affect overall design premises, which cannot be said about traditional batteries and pipes. All parts and devices of the heating structure are hidden from prying eyes; redevelopment can be done without difficulty. Radiators do not have to be hidden behind plasterboard panels or replaced with new ones.

During use, a water heated floor from central heating requires lower costs than an electric one. The system requires virtually no maintenance, and during installation all necessary sanitary, hygienic and environmental safety regulations are observed.

Among the disadvantages are:

• high cost and labor-intensive installation - the multilayer structure is based on several types of materials;
• the likelihood of possible pipe leaks - the problem can be found and eliminated only by completely lifting the floor covering;
• slow heating of the screed - this method is only suitable for rooms where people live permanently.

Installing a water heated floor in an apartment is not always possible. Some rooms will require the installation of additional heating sources (convectors or radiators).

Preparing for work on installing water heated floors in an apartment

Before starting work on installing water heated floor heating in an apartment, you should calculate the amount of materials that will be needed to organize the system. To do this, you will need to evaluate the characteristics finishing coating, area and features of the room (maintained temperature, window features, wall material, etc.). If there is a strong draft in the room, it is advisable to first insulate it.

The characteristics of the pipes used to circulate the liquid acting as the coolant should also be taken into account. Today the most popular types are:

• foamed propylene;
• metal-plastic;
• copper;
• corrugated stainless steel

The length of the prepared pipes is influenced by the installation method - snail or snake. The first option, despite the complexity of design and installation, is more effective. In such a system, pipes with relatively hot and cool water alternate sequentially, evenly distributing warm air throughout the room.

Installation of a heated floor system

The installation of a warm water floor in an apartment must begin with careful preparation of the surface. Construction debris should be removed and the base leveled. The horizontal plane should not have differences exceeding 5 mm. Otherwise, zones of coolant stagnation will form, as a result of which the structure may fail. There are three options for installing this heating system.

Concrete water heated floor system

The most popular installation method, in which cement-sand screed is the main material in the base and distribution layer. A film is laid on the concrete layer, providing heat and waterproofing. Then a special tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, which will prevent cracks from appearing and absorb the expansion of the screed when the circuit heats up.

Special grids with cells are mounted on top of the thermal insulation, and pipes are installed to them. It is important to correctly calculate the distance between them; this determines how evenly the incoming heat will be distributed. Recommended installation step:

• in cold areas (near windows, doors) - 10 cm;
• in rooms with normal heat loss - 20-30 cm;
• in cold rooms - 15 cm.

For spacious rooms, reinforcing mesh is used during installation. It is not recommended to lay pipes where furniture can be installed.

The structural elements are fixed, energized and kept for several days. If there is no damage, fill the supporting layer with a mixture containing cement, sand and plasticizers.

Then the finishing floor covering is laid. If the installation of a hot water system in an apartment should be done under ceramic tiles, then the screed should not be wider than five centimeters.

Wooden floor heating system

Polystyrene underfloor heating system

You can make a heated water floor in an apartment with your own hands using special thermal insulation boards. The products are distinguished by a special form of pressing and have the appearance of convex circles. They are ideally suited for quick and convenient installation of pipes. The slabs are securely interlocked with locks along the edges, making it possible to create a monolith along the entire perimeter of the floor.

Is it possible to make water-heated floors yourself without resorting to the help of specialists? This option is possible, but several recommendations should be taken into account.

• When arranging a heating structure, you need to completely dismantle the old finish down to concrete screed.
• Replace metal pipes(if there are any) to a plastic analogue, this will avoid the appearance of rust at the joints.
• Reliable waterproofing from a trusted manufacturer will save the floor from possible leaks.
• When installing insulation, be sure to seal the seams between the sheets with metallized tape. An additional layer of waterproofing will reduce all possible risks leakage.
• If laminate or natural wood, the coolant temperature should be increased gradually. If there is a sudden jump, the material may be damaged, which will significantly reduce its service life.
• The heated water floor in the apartment must be installed so that when the circuit is turned off, the coolant circulates in the central system. Fill the screed or lay thermal distribution plates only on the filled system.

Features of operation and possible errors

When you connect a heated floor, the temperature in the apartment rises for quite a long time. It takes time for the floor, walls and air in the room to warm up, so installation should begin before the onset of the first cold weather.

During installation, certain errors are often made:

• independent connection to the riser - the pipe is constantly filled with coolant; to begin work you need to obtain a special permit and completely drain the water;
• it is impossible to regulate the temperature - you need to install a water manifold and a mixing unit;
• lack of a project - you should not start work without determining the layout of the pipes and dividing the apartment or house into heating zones;
• materials and components from different manufacturers - this common mistake can cause rapid depressurization of the structure.

Installation of a system such as a warm water floor is a rather complex and labor-intensive process. But, if you wish, you can handle the installation yourself without involving specialists. The main thing is to obtain the necessary permission and strictly follow the recommendations for working with the materials used. However, so that the question of how to make water heated floors in apartments does not become the cause of unnecessary financial costs, it is better to seek qualified help.

Do-it-yourself installation of a heated water floor in a bathroom in an apartment multi-storey building can solve many problems. According to the standard design, the bathroom is heated exclusively by a heated towel rail, which is clearly not enough for comfortable water procedures.

Cold floors, insufficient heating of the room - all this is a consequence of an insufficient and ill-conceived heating system. It is not surprising that many owners are seriously thinking about improving their bathroom heating system.

Is it possible to have water floors in the bathroom?

Installing a water floor in a bathroom is a personal matter only in the case of a private home. According to the Housing Code, any independent change in the design of the heating system is illegal.

Complaints from neighbors about a decrease in heating intensity are grounds for initiating a lawsuit, which will result in an administrative penalty and an order to eliminate the changes within a short time.

Based on this, the legality of installing water-heated floors in an apartment building is questionable at best. The Housing Code allows you to change the design and layout of the heating system, but only after obtaining the necessary permits and coordination with the relevant authorities. In any case, registration should begin with a visit to the housing and communal services department.

Connecting a warm heated floor in a bathroom from a heated towel rail is one of the most commonly used solutions for heating a bathroom in a high-rise building. At the same time, it is extremely important to ensure that the heating temperature of your neighbors does not drop. A two-way valve can be used for this.

How to install heated floors in the bathroom

Making a water heated floor in a bathroom yourself is not that difficult, especially after obtaining all the necessary permits to change the heating system. It is enough to follow the basic installation steps.

In the shower and bathroom in an apartment building, in most cases, a water circuit without a collector is installed. The short distance of the heated area allows you to power the circuit from the heated towel rail and obtain a sufficient amount of thermal energy.

How to fill a bathroom floor

Independent installation of heated floors is much easier to carry out when using special leveling and leveling mixtures. At the same time, in order to make water heated floors in the bathroom and shower, you need to take care of the quality of the screed, which must meet the requirements:

1. Withstand temperature changes- do it yourself cement composition It is almost impossible not to crack after several years of use, so it is best to opt for ready-made mixtures.
2. Maintain strength– heated floors are subject to constant loads from changes in temperature and humidity. For decreasing negative impact you will need to lay a layer of reinforcing mesh. The fittings are especially necessary if you plan to install a drain in the shower room.

The composition of the floor “pie” consists of: waterproofing, reinforcing mesh, foil insulation and thermal insulation. A high-quality screed allows you to connect all four types of layers and create an almost monolith.

How to connect a water floor in the bathroom

There are several solutions for how to create and power a water floor in a shower or bathtub. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• From the heated towel rail– the temperature of the coolant will remain unchanged. Since in most multi-storey buildings heated towel rails are connected from the return line hot water, the heating intensity largely depends on how much the coolant has time to cool.
• From the boiler - the solution has certain advantages, consisting in the possibility of adjusting the water heating of the bathroom floor. You will need to install a thermostat.
• From the central heating system– a bathtub with a warm water floor can be connected to the apartment’s heating system. Before carrying out work, you will need to obtain permits and make a technical design.

Common mistakes during installation and connection

To install heated floors in the bathroom, everything must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Judging by consumer reviews and reports from teams who have to remodel and repair heating systems, the main violations during installation are:

1. Lack of waterproofing of the bathroom with water heated floors. During installation work, the prevention of leaks is neglected. Waterproofing is a layer that prevents moisture from reaching neighbors in the event of a water circuit break. It is also necessary to waterproof the floor before installing the underfloor water heating system of the bathroom in a heated polypropylene floor.
2. Lack of work plan and installation scheme. Preliminary calculations help to carry out installation quickly and efficiently, to avoid waste of material.
3. Carrying out installation work without obtaining permission. After installation, obtaining approval is much more problematic.
4. Filling the screed with regular cement mortar. The technology for installing water heated floors in the bathroom of a private house or apartment requires the use of adhesive compositions with the addition of plasticizers and additives. Without additives, cement eventually begins to crumble, crack and become unusable.

Heated floors in the bathroom - electric or water

Only one question remains unresolved: which heated floor for the bath is better, electric or water. Each option has its own advantages.

Thus, it is best to install an electric floor in an apartment building. The solution does not require obtaining permits for installation. Installation requires less material costs and is faster.

Water floors are completely safe. Fire and short circuit are excluded. In an apartment building, their use does not carry additional material load.

Increasing prices for hot water supply makes people look for more economical way heating in the apartment. One of these methods, water heated floors in an apartment, will be discussed in more detail, namely, how to properly make a heated floor.

Laying warm floor coverings and warm water floors in apartments in European countries has been done since the 80s of the last century. In Austria, Switzerland and Germany, water heated floors in apartments are installed in 60% of houses. Various energy sources are connected to heating for underfloor heating:

• infrared emitters;
• heating electrical cables;
• PLEN device, films with a built-in electric spiral and others.

The heated floor and the technology for its implementation in the case under consideration provide heating through a layer of hot liquid, most often it is water, sometimes antifreeze or antifreeze is used. Laying a water heated floor requires laying the pipes evenly over the floor surface.

When circulating, the liquid in the heating system passes through a centralized heating source, transfers heat to the concrete, and then heats up the air. The technology for laying water heated floors involves heating water with an autonomous boiler, or heated floors in the apartment are connected from central heating. In both cases, you can turn on and install the water heated floor yourself.

Modern technologies simplify the installation of water heated floors. Pipes are used whose configuration is based on the molecular memory of cross-linked polyethylene. This has reduced the cost of materials, the connection diagram for a water heated floor and the installation technology have become simpler, and reliability has increased.

Installing and pouring a heated floor is not a complicated process; making a water heated floor with your own hands is quite possible. For this purpose, several techniques and special materials have been developed. People show interest in how to connect the warm floor of a room to the heating system, and how to implement this project on their own.

Pipe length calculation

How to calculate the length and lay pipes on a heated water floor will be discussed below. There are several options for how heating pipes should be installed in a water-heated floor: snail-shaped or straight parallel lines, in other ways. But the main requirement is met everywhere.

The pipes are distributed evenly, the total length covering a certain area depends on the pitch between them. To meet the conditions for heating with heated floors, you need to correctly calculate the length of the pipe. To simplify the process, designed for different options pipe consumption is tabulated.

Consumption of underfloor heating pipe depending on the loop pitch

Using the table, it is easy to understand how to do the calculations yourself. With a room area of ​​20 m and a laying step of 20 cm, the length (L) will be equal to 20 m2, multiplied by 5 linear meters/m, which will be 100 m. The length of the warm coating circuit should not exceed 70 m, this is due to the effective circulation of the coolant through the pipeline and pump capacities. If the pipe in the circuit exceeds 70 m, warm floors are not effective, then how to make the right choice?

The pitch is set to 300 mm. Length (L) = 20 m 2 * 3.4 linear/m = 68 m. This fully meets all the requirements. IN large room several lines are installed, but individual contours of the warm coating should not exceed 70 m. Connection is allowed using powerful pumps warm circuit water floor up to 120 m.

The laying technology for heated floors clearly determines what to fill the warm water floor with. There are ready-made mixtures that just need to be diluted with water in the concentration specified in the instructions. In some cases, a water-heated floor is made without a screed when the floor is made of plywood. If chipboard is laid with laminate, parquet, linoleum, it is not necessary to fill the heated floor with screed mortar.

Dry screed is successfully used for warm water floors.

Before pouring and installing the floor covering, the pipes are checked for leaks. A special compressor is used, water is pumped into the pipes under a pressure of 6 bar, a process called pressure testing. If the pressure has not dropped by more than 1.5 bar during the day, the heating circuit is sealed. An incorrectly made heated floor or poor-quality installation can lead to the need to dismantle the floor covering.

Main advantages Towards old technology

• with radiator batteries, the new technique has a number of advantages:
• A heated layer at the level of the feet of human feet. Feet are warm, head is moderately cool - this stimulates the human body to active life.
• The labor-intensive procedure of removing dust from hard-to-reach areas of radiators is eliminated.
• Uneven heating stimulated colds. In the case of heated floors, all these disadvantages are absent, the surface is easy to sweep and wash;
• Installation work has become much easier;
• Carrying out the work and the main elements of the system are cheaper. To heat the room, a temperature in the pipes of 55 °C and no more than 60-70 °C is sufficient. Installation and further operation of heated floors turns out to be 30% cheaper. Therefore, many people wanted to know how to make a water-heated floor.

Warm floor from central heating

Organizational matters

Many apartment residents want to dismantle the radiators or additionally connect them to underfloor heating from central heating. Before starting such a reconstruction, it is necessary to resolve organizational issues, namely, coordinate the project with the management company that services the house.

Unauthorized connection to the central heating system is punishable by very high fines, in addition, they will subsequently be forced to dismantle all installed equipment.

The difficulty in the question of how to make a heated floor is the process of obtaining permission. The difficulty is that most boiler houses operate at the limit of their calculated power or have a small reserve. Several apartments can be connected; with a mass connection, the central system will not be able to function normally.

Connecting a water heated floor to a heating system has some technical difficulties. This depends on the design of the central system. So, in schemes with direct supply through one pipe, there are no options for connection. Where the coolant circulates along the circuit of forward and reverse pipes, connection is possible.

Largely on the decision management company The location of the heat exchanger influences. When the heat exchanger is located in the lower part, residents of the upper floors are more likely to receive a permit, and vice versa. After obtaining permission, you can purchase equipment and begin installation work on the central heating floor.

Connection diagram

Before pouring, the entire installation scheme is checked for the tightness of the warm water floor. Depending on the length of the circuit and the diameter of the pipes, the pump power is selected. The installation scheme for heated floors includes the following main elements:

• Valves at the entrance to the heated floor circuit;
• Check valve;
• Three-way control valve (thermal head);
• Circulation pump;
• Coolant temperature control sensor;
• Manifold for underfloor heating;
• Plastic pipes.

The scheme for installing a water heated floor begins with connecting the central heating system to the return line. Two valves are installed to drain the forward and reverse flow of the underfloor heating system. They are designed to allow you to turn off the water at any time and carry out repairs or Maintenance elements in the heated floor line.

The check valve ensures that the coolant fluid moves in one direction. Great importance The system has a three-way valve; it distributes hot and cold flows, mixing them until the set temperature is reached. Sometimes this device is called a thermal head. The temperature of the water entering the heated floors from the central system can reach 70 °C, this is too much; for normal operation no more than 50 °C is required. The thermal head reduces the temperature to the value set on it, usually 40-45 ̊C.

The circulation pump circulates water within the circuit in a given direction. Temperature sensors indicate the temperature of the coolant. Eat automatic systems controls that combine the operation of sensors and three-way valves, but this topic requires a separate, more extensive description.

A manifold for underfloor heating distributes coolant flows through pipes of different circuits. Return line underfloor heating collectors collect cooled flows, directing them to a three-way valve, where the liquid is distributed by a thermal head for further circulation in a closed circuit, maintaining the temperature set in it. Manufacturers make manifolds for heated floors from various materials:

• Brass products are durable and strong, withstand high pressure, they are universal for any type of pipe;
• Manifolds for heated floors made of copper can withstand the most high pressure up to 30 bar and high temperatures in heating systems. Often used in circuits where the coolant can be oil, antifreeze or antifreeze.
• Stainless steel parts are in greatest demand due to reasonable prices and good technical characteristics that satisfy installation in apartments.

Three way valve design

The heating system to which heated floors are connected necessarily includes a three-way valve; its design and principle of operation require detailed consideration. Essentially, the valve works like a hot and cold mixer cold water, you can make it warmer or colder.

When moving the shut-off element in the adjustment sector, the space for the flow of hot liquid increases and the space for the flow of the cold part of the coolant decreases and vice versa. In this way, the temperature in the system can be adjusted. This diagram of a water circuit with a valve helps to better understand its purpose and operating principle.

Sometimes valves with electric drives, in conjunction with thermostats. Water flows are adjusted automatically depending on temperature changes. When it decreases, the valve shut-off device moves in the direction of increasing the hot flow, and, conversely, when the set temperature value increases, the electric drive moves the shut-off mechanism in the direction of increasing the cold flow.

Features of the circulation pump

Whether the entire system will work efficiently depends on the correct selection and installation of the pump. The circulation of the coolant depends on the length and diameter of the pipes; bends at pipe turns make it difficult to move the flow. To achieve the required rate of fluid circulation in the system, a pump is installed. Consumers have a greater preference for pumps with three pumping speeds; this makes it possible to control the temperature of the coolant, and therefore the air in the room, by changing the circulation speed.

When the room temperature drops, the coolant in the pipes will cool faster. By increasing the circulation rate, flows will pass through the heating element more often, increasing the temperature. The speed switch is located on the pump body and is controlled manually. There are options when the entire process is controlled by an automatic system.

Manufacturers produce two types of pumps: with a wet and dry rotor, in the first version the rotating part is in the circulating fluid, in the second version the rotor is isolated.

A wet rotor is more suitable for apartments; their power is limited for rooms of 400 m2, this is quite enough. They consume less electricity and operate silently. The pump body can be made of stainless steel, cast iron or polymer; the latter option is optimal, lightweight, strong and durable. The numbers separated by a fraction sign on the marking indicate the dimensions of the inlet and outlet openings, the last number indicates the length of the product for calculations when installation work

. In order not to go into details when calculating a pipe for a heated floor, use a table to calculate the calculations when choosing a pump.

Characteristics table for pump selection	Heating area, m²
	Pump capacity	radiator heating
80-120	0,4	1,5
120-160	0,5	2,0
160-200	0,6	2,5
200-240	0,7	3,0
240-280	0,8	4,0
300-350	1,2-1,5	-

When installing the pump in a line, you cannot confuse the direction of movement of the coolant; it is indicated by an arrow on the body. The rotor must be in a horizontal position when vertical installation pump power is reduced by 30%.

The pump can be placed on any section of the main line, but most often this is done at the entrance to the system after the switchgear or thermostat. It is very important that the pump is equipped with an air release valve. Airlock

can block the circulation of the coolant and the operation of the pump; opening the valve will help get rid of accumulated air in the interval in the network where the pump is installed.

Connection to an individual heating boiler The presence of an individual heating boiler in an apartment or private house eliminates all organizational problems in permitting the installation of water heated floors. In this case, connecting a warm water floor does not require any permits.

• Depending on the location and operation conditions of the facility, boilers can be of various types:
• on gas fuel;
• on liquid fuel (diesel, fuel oil);
• solid fuel: firewood, pellets, coal;
• electrical;

combined. In apartments in multi-storey buildings, gas or electric heating boilers are most often used; connecting a heated floor circuit to the central heating system is not required. IN in this case

the diagram differs slightly, but the functional purpose of the main elements remains the same.

• Essential elements:
• boiler;
• expansion tank;
• pressure gauge;
• circulation pump;

manifold for underfloor heating; Unlike the case with central heating, connecting a heated floor to a boiler does not require installing a three-way valve to regulate the temperature of the coolant. Its installation is not necessary; the temperature can be changed from the boiler control panel. Temperature control sensors are also located on

external panel

management.

• buttons or regulators for increasing and decreasing the supply coolant temperature;
• button automatic installation comfortable, economical temperature regime, room – 20-22 ̊С;
• Maybe software control, setting the modes “winter”, “summer”, “vacation”, “function of protecting the system from freezing of liquid”.

How to make specific settings for boilers with different control panels is described in the operating instructions. Filling a water heated floor with a solution for a separate boiler is done in the same way as for central heating.

Video: water heated floor in an apartment

All this shows that it is preferable to make heated floors with the installation of an autonomous heating boiler; the main part of the installation can be done with your own hands. A water floor made without a screed, or a dry floor with a screed, will simplify the work and make it cheaper.

If the connection diagram for a heated floor is not entirely clear, you can and should consult with professionals about individual elements in the floor. Having studied the purpose, the correct connection of the main elements in general scheme, technically literate people understand that laying a heated floor is not difficult, making a heated floor with your own hands is a very real task.

For residents apartment buildings, especially old building, from year to year, with the onset of the cold season, the same problem arises. We are talking about the quality of heating of residential premises. Centralized heat supply, despite all its archaism, remains today the main option for heating the housing stock in almost all settlements and cities of our country.

For reference: According to Goskomstat, today up to 75% of housing facilities in our cities are heated through a centralized heating system.

Hot radiators in the house are not yet a sign that the apartment will be warm and comfortable inside. Autonomous heating, heated floors in the apartment, heating methods that most of our citizens can only dream of. Apartment buildings, especially “Khrushchev” and panel buildings multi-storey buildings, due to design features are characterized by huge heat losses. Normally warming up a residential building with ordinary radiators in severe frosts is a problematic task.

For this reason and for a number of others, residents are forced to look for auxiliary ways to solve the problem. One of the effective, relatively inexpensive and most practical options for additional heating is underfloor heating from a heated towel rail.

Connecting a heated floor to a heated towel rail

The idea is to use central heating as the main source of heat for the operation of other heating systems in the apartment is not new. Using electric household heaters en masse to create a comfortable temperature in an apartment is a costly task. Insufficient thermal efficiency of residential premises causes high costs for additional heating. Warm floors in this regard are the most effective way heating For private houses, this heating scheme is realistic and feasible, but for city apartments, the legality of this engineering and technological solution comes first.

The main reason for the ban is that inserting additional heating devices into the centralized heating system can negatively affect the quality of heating in neighboring apartments.

For reference: in a central heating system operating pressure significantly different from the optimal parameters that the pipes of the heated floor circuit have. Don't forget about the temperature of the coolant. For heated floors optimal temperature heating is 35-45 0 C, whereas in the radiators of the central heating system the coolant has a temperature of 65-75 0 C.

The incompatibility of operating parameters calls into question the combination of a centralized heat supply system with a heating pipe laid in the floor. If we omit the legality of this engineering solution in this situation, heating engineering specialists speak negatively about the idea of ​​​​using a heating plant to operate a heated floor. Poor quality coolant and the high probability of water hammer makes this technical solution a problem area in the apartment. It's a completely different matter when we're talking about about heating a limited area in your apartment.

For example: a bathroom, toilet and other rooms are in dire need of additional heating. Installing a heated floor in the bathroom, which will be connected to a heated towel rail, is a task that you can handle on your own. Calculations and expenses do not play a key role in this case. Small area and the insignificant amount of work allows this heating method to be used in a city apartment without harm to neighbors.

Operating principles of the heating system

This connection option does not pose any technical difficulties. A heated towel rail is a heating device installed in almost every city apartment. From a constructive point of view, this is external element communications through which hot coolant or hot water of the DHW system circulates. Such elements are often installed as a compensating loop of the heating system, playing the role of an additional source of heat in rooms with high humidity. The name of the element speaks for itself, hence the serpentine shape, thanks to which you can effectively use the heated circuit.

For aesthetics, heated towel rails are usually made of stainless steel or plated with nickel. The design itself and the method of connecting the heated towel rail to the centralized communication make it possible to connect a water floor pipe to it without much difficulty. As a rule, small diameter pipes are used for heated floors. For a bathroom, the area of ​​which rarely exceeds 4-5 m2 in a city apartment, only 15-20 meters of pipe will be required.

There are two types of heated towel rails:

• a coil that is connected to a centralized heating system;
• a coil that is connected to a centralized hot water supply.

In the first case, with the onset heating season, water fills the heated towel rail and accordingly enters the heated floor circuit, heating the floor surface.

The first option only works during the heating season. The rest of the time your heated floor will be inactive. A coil connected to the DHW system looks preferable. Such a floor in the bathroom will always work, providing a good microclimate and comfortable temperature.

What does the connection diagram look like?

The option for connecting a heated towel rail in an apartment also determines the method of installing a warm water floor.

On a note: in some houses, the coil installed in the bathroom is fed by coolant flowing in the opposite direction. This option is the most suitable in terms of manufacturability.

Acceptable coolant temperature allows operation warm floor with maximum efficiency. However, there is one thing! At the end of the heating season, your coil will be cold and the warm floor will be of no use. This connection diagram is not ideal.

A heated floor connected to a heated towel rail connected to the hot water supply in the bathroom works better. Here you need to select a pipe for the water circuit of the correct diameter, accurately calculate the length of the pipeline, the heated area and choose the correct connection method. It is better to take metal-plastic pipes for heated floors, with a diameter of 16 mm.

The installation process itself is quite simple and straightforward. All the work consists of connecting (inset) to the main pipe (riser) of the water floor circuit. New pipe will go to the floor and return back to the coil. Be sure to install a start valve at the insertion point, with which you can regulate the flow intensity and turn your additional heating on and off. This option is the simplest and cheapest, but provided that the pressure in the pipes is within normal limits.

Installing a heated floor as usual is not much different from traditional practice. The water circuit pipe is laid in the substrate with a certain pitch. Pipe bending radii must be minimal to ensure normal coolant flow throughout the entire system. If you can’t get by with just one circuit in your bathroom, you’ll have to use a manifold. With this device you can not only connect larger number water circuits, but also accurately regulate the water supply and heating temperature of the heating floor. You can install a circulation pump for reliability, but the profitability of your miniature heating system will be minimal.

Conclusion. What problems might you encounter?

Use central heating and DHW system for installing heated floors - this is a rare phenomenon and is rather an exception to the rule. The efficiency of your structure directly depends on how centralized communication systems work. A drop in pressure in the system and deterioration in the quality of the coolant affect the permeability of the water circuit.

It should also be remembered that there are possible emergency situations. If a heating circuit pipe ruptures due to water hammer, the resulting leak will have to be repaired immediately. To do this, you will need to remove not only tiles, but also dismantle the screed section. There is a high probability that if the integrity of the water circuit is damaged, you will flood your neighbors below.

Something to remember! A hot heated towel rail will be a problem for you. The absence of a heating regulator in this case will prevent you from setting a comfortable temperature in the bathroom. An overheated floor will dry out a small bathroom area. Interruptions in hot water supply apartment buildings The phenomenon is quite common, so you can’t rely on constant normal operation of the heated floor.

A manifold and temperature control sensor will partially solve the problems, but then your heating system will go beyond the planned budget.

Why "Warm Floor"?

Availability The water underfloor heating system has quite high level adaptability to existing autonomous heating systems. Based on the radiator heating system in your home, it is possible to organize a “warm floor” both in the entire building and in individual rooms, for example, in the bathroom or children’s room. When using underfloor heating systems, you get the most correct distribution of heat in the room. Heat spreads from bottom to top and the saying “keep your head cool and your feet warm” comes into practice. Hygiene Using heating devices(radiators, convectors, etc.) you will inevitably encounter convection movement of air mass within the room. This effect is due to the suspended state of dust in the indoor air. In the case of underfloor heating, the room is heated evenly, and dust does not circulate along with the air mass. This is especially true when it comes to children or people with allergies or asthma. Economical When using an underfloor heating system, heat spreads throughout the room in such a way that the space under the ceiling remains unheated, and, in addition, the floor ceases to be a heat-absorbing surface. As a result, the level of energy savings is 10-15% in standard rooms, and in the case of rooms with high ceilings reaches 50%.

Durability

The service life of a water underfloor heating system is determined by the mode of operation and the type of materials used. Considering the fact that underfloor heating is low-temperature and operates at a coolant pressure of 2 atmospheres, all elements of the system operate in a gentle mode, unlike radiator heating systems, where high temperatures lead to increased linear expansion of materials and, as a result, faster wear of system components. An underfloor heating system made using polymer pipes based on cross-linked polyethylene (PEX) and installed in compliance with all standards and requirements will serve you for a period no less than the period between major repairs buildings, i.e. at least 40-50 years. If copper pipes are used, such a system can operate uninterruptedly for up to 200 years. For comparison, the service life of an electric heated floor is 15-20 years, systems based on steel or aluminum radiators - 20-25 years.

Self-regulation

One of the main features of water heated floors is the effect of maintaining the selected temperature in the room without the need for additional regulation. The essence of this physical phenomenon is that the surface emitting heat gives off more heat the lower the air temperature in the room, and at the same time cannot heat environment hotter than itself. Accordingly, depending on the “warm floor” setting, the temperature regime in room. This effect does not exclude temperature fluctuations, but each time there is external influence (ventilation of the room, change in street temperature, etc.), the temperature in the room will tend to the initially set one.

Simplicity

No matter how strange it may seem, the most difficult thing in installing a water heated floor is the design process. Direct installation of components, pipe layout and screed preparation does not require highly qualified personnel. If desired, the entire installation process can be carried out on your own. The following instructions will help you understand the intricacies of preparing, designing, installing and operating underfloor water heating systems.

Restrictions on use

Floor water heating used in autonomous systems heating of private buildings, as well as multi-apartment buildings, if this system was originally included in the project. According to the law, it is prohibited to organize water underfloor heating in apartments with direct selection of coolant from central heating or hot water supply networks. This is due to the fact that the temperature conditions and pressure in central heating networks are designed for radiator heating and, when used in water-heated floor systems, will create a danger to residents, the structure and utility networks of the building. The installation of water heated floors in urban multi-apartment buildings from centralized heating networks must be organized using a heat exchanger, and must be agreed upon with the operating organization. Before deciding whether you will have heated floors, you also need to decide on the type of flooring. The most acceptable solutions are tiles and laminate. You can use linoleum, but in this case you need to pay attention to its quality, since cheap varieties often contain low-quality components that will emit when heated bad smell. A number of such traditional solutions like parquet or carpet, it is not suitable for laying over underfloor heating systems due to its high thermal insulation capacity, which leads to insufficient heat transfer and, as a result, makes the “warm floor” system ineffective.

Component Selection

The direct engineering solution for organizing a water heated floor consists of two main parts:

Distribution node- consists of a collector group, a pump to ensure circulation of the coolant and a mixing unit, which ensures the required temperature regime of the coolant when connected to a radiator heating system. The installation of small-area systems is possible using hand-held mixers, and when organizing underfloor heating as the main or only source of heat, it is advisable to use ready-made pumping and mixing units.

Underfloor heating circuit- consists of pipes through which coolant is pumped and thermal energy is transferred to the floor material and floor covering.

Optimal choice based on the combination of such qualities as price, specifications and service life are polymer pipes based on cross-linked polyethylene PEX or heat-resistant PERT - their service life coincides with the period between planned major repairs of the building and is 40-50 years. At the same time, they are characterized by low weight, high flexibility and strength, and have a single linear coefficient thermal expansion along the entire thickness of the wall and leave you the “right to make mistakes” - unlike metal or metal-plastic pipes, you can afford to lay the contour incorrectly; dismantling will not change the characteristics of the pipe. The cost of cross-linked polyethylene pipes is close to the cost of average quality metal-plastic pipes. In turn, metal-plastic pipes and fittings for their distribution are very common, and their service life is copper pipe in heating systems can reach 200 years, which justifies the 4-fold superiority in price over polymer analogues.

It is also necessary to pay attention to the materials that will be used for thermal insulation of the floor and installation of concrete screed. For insulation, it is recommended to use polystyrene boards and polyethylene foam. To prevent cracking of the screed, it is necessary to use plasticizing additives and reinforce the screed with iron reinforcement. It is also advisable to add polypropylene fiberglass when preparing the solution for additional protection during shrinkage.

Heating system design

Initially, you need to decide how your home will be heated. In the case of underfloor heating, two options are possible: an underfloor heating system and a combined system, which in turn can use underfloor heating as the main or auxiliary heat source.

The main difference between a radiator system and a heated floor system

In the case of radiators, high-temperature heating circuits are formed, where the temperature of the coolant fluctuates between 60-90°C. In the case of heated floors, low-temperature circuits with a coolant temperature of 30-40°C. Accordingly, systems with different layouts will require different boiler settings. When selecting a distribution unit, it is necessary to proceed from the heated area. On average, for heating 1 square meter of area, the consumption of 5 linear meters of pipe is assumed. Taking into account the hydraulic resistance in the pipes, the optimal area heated by one circuit is 10-15 square meters. The number of inputs of the collector group corresponds to the number of circuits on the floor.

Underfloor heating system

In this case, it is taken into account that the only source of heating in the house will be a water heated floor system. The very essence of the engineering solution will differ little from conventional radiator heating systems, with the main differences being the reconfiguration of the heating boiler for low-temperature operation and the source of heat transfer - pipes in the floor screed instead of radiators.

At the design stage, it is necessary to take into account that each floor of the building requires a separate collector unit connected to the main riser. Setting the boiler according to the temperature of the coolant supply to the main riser when heating only with a water-heated floor is 40-50°C, depending on the heat loss within the room.

Modern gas boilers are completed circulation pumps, but, as a rule, of low power, which makes it possible to organize sufficient pressure in the main riser, formed over relatively short intervals from pipes of large diameters. To draw water from the main riser and overcome the hydraulic resistance of the “warm floor” circuits, it is advisable to use an additional circulation pump with increased productivity. This makes it possible to reduce the temperature difference between the supply and return lines, thereby increasing the efficiency of the system, since the temperature in different parts of the heated room will tend to the average value, which in turn eliminates the formation of “islands of cold.”

Combined heating system

A system whose design includes both high and low temperature heating circuits. This usually happens in cases where a “warm floor” is introduced into a ready-made project that provides for radiator heating or water heating through an indirect type boiler, or the design features of the building require it. In such a situation it is necessary to ensure serial connection high and low temperature heating systems by installing a mixing unit. The purpose of this device, by mixing in a certain proportion the coolant from the high-temperature part of the system (70°C) with the cooled coolant (30°C) from the return collector of the underfloor heating system, to prepare required level heating (40°C) in the supply manifold of the underfloor heating system.

When designing a combined system in which underfloor heating plays the role of the main heat source, it is advisable to use ready-made balanced pump-mixing units. In this case, a device is installed, complete with all the necessary fittings, fully compatible with ready-made manifold groups and standard circulation pumps. In the case where underfloor heating is auxiliary and total area, heated by a “water heated floor” does not exceed 60 m2, it is possible to use a manual mixing unit. To do this, you will need a three-way mixing valve.

The operating principle of this device is identical to a conventional sanitary mixer and allows you to adjust the temperature of the coolant entering the underfloor heating system. For this process, heated coolant is used, coming from a boiler or radiator heating circuit and cooled from the return manifold of the “warm floor” system. But if there are serious temperature changes in the main riser, for example, with a temporary increase in the consumption of hot water from the boiler, there may be a need to change the settings of the three-way mixer, which creates some inconvenience.

However, if necessary, such a mixing unit can be transferred to automatic control by installing a thermostat on the flow manifold in the underfloor heating circuits and an electric servomotor on the three-way mixer.

Pipe layout project

After the heating engineering design has been prepared, it is necessary to create pipe layout diagrams in the premises. To do this, you need to decide on the step and layout scheme.

To determine the layout step, it is necessary to take into account the zones of active heat loss, namely: external walls, windows and doors. It is advisable to shorten your stride in the immediate vicinity of these zones. In order to get the maximum comfortable heating It is worth designing the underfloor heating supply in such a way that the circuit pipe coming from the supply manifold with heated water passes along the active heat loss zones first.

To heat the central part of the room, a pipe pitch of 20-30 cm is used, and in zones of active heat loss, a pipe pitch of 10-15 cm is used. This is done in order to increase the heat transfer of the floor surface without changing temperatures and to eliminate duplicate heating sources. However, make sure that in all rooms you set the same step ratio, for example, for the central zones 25 cm, and for zones of active heat loss 10 cm, in this case the calculation of the dependence of heat transfer on the coolant temperature for the entire floor surface of the building will be the same.

For direct pipe laying, there are 2 main schemes: “snake” and “spiral”. Depending on the room, the priority of using one or another scheme changes. To determine the step, you will have to decide how much power is needed to heat a particular room. In cases where it is necessary to organize heating for a small room, it is advisable to lay the pipe in a “snake”. In principle, this installation option is the simplest and most versatile, but it has several disadvantages. Firstly, the difference in temperature of the floor surface in different corners of the room will be most noticeable, and secondly, if necessary, lay the pipe with a small pitch (<15 см) существует вероятность столкнуться с проблемой сгибания - труба может не выдержать перегрузки и сломаться.

In this case, it is necessary to provide for the use of wide fold loops. If it is necessary to heat living rooms of medium size (12-16 m2), it is better to use the “spiral” laying method.

In this case, the temperature at different ends of the room will tend to the average value, since next to the pipe with the cooled coolant there is always a pipe on the supply side with the heated coolant. In addition, all bend angles are directed at 900, which greatly facilitates the installation of a rigid pipe, especially if it is necessary to lay it in small increments (<15 см) по периметру внешних стен и под окнами. Минусом такой укладки является ограничение по минимальной площади помещения - в комнате меньше 10 м2 лучше применить «змейку». В случае, когда необходимо обеспечить отопление большого помещения (>18-20 m2) and there is a need to lay two or more contours, then it is still advisable to use several “spirals”.

Surface preparation

Installation begins with leveling the main screed. If the height difference in one circuit exceeds half the pipe cross-section (~6 mm), then the likelihood of the formation of air pockets in the pipes increases sharply, which in turn will impede the normal movement of the coolant and reduce the efficiency of the system.

Next, it is necessary to provide hydro-, steam- and thermal insulation of the floors. This can be done using a combination of special waterproofing mastics, polyethylene film, polyethylene foam insulation and polystyrene foam.

To begin with, using mastic or polyethylene film, it is necessary to provide vapor and waterproofing. Foamed polyethylene has high insulating properties with a relatively small layer thickness (3-5 mm). However, you should not lay a concrete screed directly on top of it. It is very soft and easily pressed, so when shrinking there is a risk of cracking the screed. Perform installation in small steps (<15 см) по периметру внешних стен и под окнами. Минусом такой укладки является ограничение по минимальной площади помещения - в комнате меньше 10 м 2 лучше применить «змейку».

In the case when it is necessary to provide heating for a large room (>18-20 m2), and there is a need to lay two or more circuits, then it is still advisable to use several “spirals”, but use it as additional insulation. To ensure the necessary rigidity and correct shrinkage of the screed, as well as a minimum level of heat loss through the plane of the floor, it is recommended to use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of at least 20 mm. When installing thermal insulation on slabs laid on top of the ground or above unheated rooms, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the insulating layer to 80 mm.

If you plan to install a water-heated floor in a wooden or other building without reinforced concrete floors, the screed must be formed in a pre-prepared box made of waterproof plywood, which will prevent the solution from spreading over the structure and under the floors. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the load-bearing capacity of the beams based on the mass of the screed formed for the installation of a water-heated floor. In order to minimize the weight of the structure, it is advisable to reduce the thickness of the screed to the minimum possible, but not less than 20 mm above the pipe. The pipe pitch should be uniform and not exceed 15 cm for the most uniform heating. The design temperature of the coolant should not exceed 40 o C. In this case, lightening particles (shavings, expanded clay) can be introduced into the screed, but the dosage of such additives must be carefully calculated so as not to reduce the heat transfer properties of the surface being formed. To further protect the structure from leakage of the solution, it is recommended to cover the box inside and outside with plastic film.

Layout of the heating circuit pipe.

After you have decided on the pitch and layout of the pipe in each room and prepared the surface for laying the pipes, it is recommended to transfer the sketch of the diagram to the top layer of thermal insulation, on top of which you plan to directly lay out the pipe. This can be done with a regular marker if the surface allows. In the future, such a drawing will greatly facilitate and speed up the installation process, and will also identify errors made at the design stage, if any.

There are several ways to secure the pipe above the insulation surface in the desired position. The most common method is laying out using reinforcing mesh. Reinforcing mesh is laid out on the surface of the thermal insulation in increments of 5-15 cm, the pipe is attached every 50-80 cm and at the bend points using plastic clamps or thin wire. In this case, you will immediately get a double effect: you will secure the pipe and prepare a reinforcing layer for the screed, which will have a positive effect on its durability during shrinkage and operation. In this option, it is recommended that after the final layout of the pipe, before pouring the solution, “raise” the mesh with the pipe 5-10 mm above the surface using wooden or plastic elements.
The second, no less common option for attaching the water heated floor circuit pipe is special polystyrene plates. A special feature of such slabs are special regular elevations on the upper surface, arranged in a checkerboard pattern (“bobs”). The pipe is laid out around the “bosses”.

In this option, in addition to the pipe fastening element, a 20-mm thermal insulation layer is provided, but in the future it will be necessary to reinforce the screed in one form or another.

In addition to traditional ready-made layout methods, you can also prepare the mounting base according to the layout yourself. To do this, you will need long boards 15-25 mm thick and 50-80 mm wide. Using a jigsaw, you can form a frame for pipe layout with any pitch and type of layout. To do this, you will need to cut recesses in the boards along the outer diameter of the pipe at the required interval, then fasten the boards in such a way that the contours of the future layout contour are formed, while the insulation should be laid out so that the lower edge of the recesses is flush with the upper plane of the insulation layer . Next, a pipe is placed into the recesses in order to repeat the previously designed layout and layout step.

To lay out the circuit pipe like a “snake”, it is necessary to form a rectangular frame.

Depending on the size of the room, you will need 2-3 blanks in length corresponding to the length of the room, as well as 2-3 boards to secure the frame in width. If the pipe is laid out in a “spiral”, you will need to secure the boards diagonally or in two triangles. At the same time, it is quite difficult to calculate the locations of the recesses “on paper”. It is advisable to first assemble the frame and lay out the insulation, transfer the sketch of the design diagram to the surface and mark the places for the cuts. After this, carefully remove the frame, cut out the notches and return the frame to its place. In this case, you can guarantee a complete match between the design and the frame. In addition, when laying out the pipe in a “spiral”, it will not be possible to achieve the correct geometry of the circuit. It is worth noting that this layout option is the least expensive in terms of purchasing materials, but from the point of view of additional work, it is certainly more time-consuming and complex.

System testing

After all the pipes of the underfloor heating circuits have been laid out and connected to the distribution units, it is necessary to check the system for leaks. First of all, you should be interested in the tightness of the connections and sections of the pipe that will be in the screed. In addition, you must ensure that all connections are made correctly and will withstand the intended pressure.

All these steps must be completed before pouring the screed. First you need to fill the system with water or a special solution - antifreeze. It is recommended to fill the contours one by one. To do this, leave one circuit open and start supplying water. Once the circuit is completely filled and the air has been removed, close the taps and open the next circuit. In the same way, you need to fill all the circuits connected to this distribution node. When the entire system on the floor is completely filled, open all circuits and increase the pressure to 4-5 bar, which will correspond to 1.5 times the maximum operating pressure. The pressure will gradually drop, but provided the system is tight, it will stabilize after some time, which will mean the functionality of the system. In order to additionally check the connections for leaks, it is necessary to once again bring the pressure to 4-5 bar and leave for 2 hours, then release the pressure and leave for 2 hours. It is recommended to repeat the cycle 3-4 times.

After completing the test, it is advisable to set the operating pressure to 1.5-3 bar and leave the system for a day - the pressure should not drop any further. If pressure drops, check all connections and circuits. As a rule, given a certain degree of dust in the room being repaired, it is not difficult to detect fresh stains. If antifreeze is poured into the system, a specific smell will also let you know about a leak. After filling and testing the underfloor heating circuits, the supply circuits and boiler can be filled and tested. Open the distribution manifolds and fill the main riser, supply lines and boiler. Carry out hydraulic tests according to the regulations specified in the operating instructions for your boiler. After hydraulic tests, you can proceed to thermal tests of the system. Shut off all “warm floor” circuits at the distribution nodes. Set the operating pressure, turn on the circulation pumps to the design level and bring the temperature in the main riser to the design temperature. Open the underfloor heating circuit furthest from the boiler and wait until it has warmed up completely.

After the temperature difference between the supply and return manifold reaches 5-10 o C, open the next circuit. In this way, run the entire system sequentially. After the entire system has warmed up and reached its design capacity, increase the temperature in the circuits to the maximum specified in the design. If the underfloor heating system is the only source of heating for the building, check the boiler settings.
If the system is combined, then set the required values ​​on the mixing units or thermostats. The maximum temperature of the coolant in the underfloor heating system should not exceed 55 o C. The system must operate in peak mode for at least 6 hours. Record the pressure and temperature at peak heat load at various points in the system. In the future, if the emergency protection of the boiler is triggered or a malfunction of the system is detected, you will be able to use this data to diagnose and identify malfunctions. After the thermal test, check the system again for air and leaks.

Screed device

Once you are sure that the heating system is tight and operational, you can begin installing the concrete screed. To do this, check the insulation again and prepare a solution. Don't forget to add plasticizer and fiberglass. To prevent the destruction of the screed due to linear thermal expansion, it is necessary to lay a damper tape around the perimeter of the room. Only the supply and return pipelines are allowed to pass through the damper tape - it is advisable to lay them corrugated for additional protection from accidental damage during operation. Start the system. Set the average design pressure to 1.5-2 bar. Do not heat the coolant. The maximum temperature in the screed pouring circuit should not exceed 25 o C until the final hardening of the concrete (17-28 days). After this period, the system can be started up at its designed capacity. The thickness of the screed directly above the pipe should be 30-50 mm. The thinner the screed, the faster it will warm up, and a “thermal zebra” effect may appear when the passage of the coolant pipe is clearly felt. Accordingly, the larger the pitch between the pipes, the proportionally greater the thickness of the screed to ensure uniform heating of the floor surface. After pouring the screed, it is recommended to vibrate the surface to remove air bubbles and ensure a tighter fit of the concrete to the pipe. This will significantly increase the efficiency of your heating system. After the screed has completely hardened, the flooring can be laid.