Installation of complex window slopes made of plasterboard. Installation of plasterboard slopes

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November 5, 2016
Specialization: master of internal and exterior decoration(plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate and so on). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Do you want to make slopes from plasterboard for plastic windows with your own hands and are afraid to take on this work because you are not confident in your strengths and skills? Or maybe you don’t even know where to start, and what materials will be required for this besides plasterboard?

Don't worry, you'll learn all this now!

Slopes from gypsum plasterboard

We will look at how to make slopes on windows. However, on the door they are made in the same way, except that the area will be larger. So it’s just important for you to understand the essence of the issue.

Installation of slopes of this type involves the following main steps:

Selection the right tools and selection of necessary building materials.
Preparing the opening for work.
Cut the drywall relative to the wall and the opening itself.
Installation on glue or profiles with insulation.

I suggest you look into everything in more detail.

Stage 1. Tools and materials

To work you will need the following tools:

Of course, slopes made of plasterboard involve cutting the material, therefore, a knife is needed here. You can purchase a special cutter with a short blade, but this is not a requirement that the instructions require. GKL cuts perfectly with the most ordinary painting knife, the main thing is that the blade is sharp;
Of course, for marking here you can’t do without a metric tape measure, a rule (instead of a ruler) and a pencil;

you will also need a long and short building level to level the slats;
plane for polishing cuts;
spatula for applying glue;
a screwdriver and possibly a hammer drill if you are installing the frame.

A screwdriver is a real helper for the home handyman

Materials that will be useful:

Of course, you need gypsum board, and here a regular wall sheet or a moisture-resistant one (gypsum board) can be used. Moisture-resistant sheets are usually used in cases where ceramic tile, or in rooms with high humidity;

Most often, cut lamellas are glued, and Perlfix glue from knauf is best suited for this. But if its price seems too high to you, then you can use regular starting putty;

in some cases, covering slopes with plasterboard is done on the frame, since the opening is severely broken when old windows are dismantled. Although in such situations there are other options, for example, a badly broken opening is covered with a brick;

Mineral wool is usually used for insulation;
plastic L-profile (it is used for PVC installation panels) and 25 mm self-tapping screws are needed to install the guide on the frame;
to edge the corners around the perimeter you will need a perforated metal corner and metal scissors to cut it.

Stage 2. Preparing the window opening for work

First, let's figure out what installation of complex window slopes, because the slopes themselves look like the letter “P”, which, as a rule, is made with a lapel. In some cases, dismantling old ones is done extremely carelessly, that is, the walls of the opening are literally torn apart, and what you see in the photo below is not the worst situation.

Here, when dismantling the old windows, they overdid it - the opening was badly broken

It happens that bricks are literally broken out of the masonry - I don’t know how they manage to do this, but I have had to deal with a similar situation several times.

It is quite natural that there is no point in gluing the lamella to such a surface - it must either be sealed or a frame sheathing installed. Here, of course, it’s up to you to choose, but I still recommend sealing such faults.

For example, such minor errors as in the top photo can simply be plastered over, that is, more or less leveled out. But if there are bricks inside out, I strongly advise you to correct (repair) the masonry.

But not always old frame dismantled carelessly - most often this is done as shown in the top photo, that is, the opening remains practically untouched. But plasterboard window slopes should not be glued to the old finish.

In addition, whitewashing is often done with lime, where adhesion with Perlfix is likely to turn into cohesion. Therefore you should remove upper layer with a spatula and prime the surface for better adhesion of the glue.

In addition, if you prefer finishing your windows with plasterboard with large openings, then you may need to cut down the sides of the opening with a hammer drill. In any case, the distance between the gypsum board and the rough base should be no more than 5-6 cm, and this is only at the frame, and on the outside no more than 2 cm, so that the glue holds.

Stage 3. Cutting drywall

You need to start work with measurements, you should determine the width of the opening from the frame to interior, adding a tolerance for the slope of the lamella. And here a difficulty may arise, since smooth walls Not everyone can boast.

And you will agree, there is no point in making uneven slopes on the windows with your own hands. Therefore, in such cases, they provide for at least partial plastering of the wall, starting from the edge of the window and extending 30-40 cm onto the wall - such a measure visually helps to hide unevenness.

If the wall is too uneven, then an overlap of 30-40 cm will not help. In such cases, the entire wall is puttied.

You will need to cut three slats:

two side ones in mirror image;
and one crossbar.

To accurately determine the sloped width, you can use a regular school ruler. Place one end of it against the frame, and place a level on the edge of the slope. It is important here that the level is exactly vertical - this way you can clearly determine the width.

Also, sealing slopes with plasterboard requires clear edges and, despite the fact that there will be a perforated corner, when cutting and breaking the material, irregularities may remain that need to be planed. Yes, this can be done with a painting knife, but such work requires a certain skill.

Stage 4. Installation

An L-shaped profile, which we already discussed at the first stage of work, is screwed to the very edge of the frame onto the plastic windows with 25 mm self-tapping screws. It will also serve as a guide for the slats on the sides and top of the opening.

When an L-shaped profile is screwed around the perimeter of the frame, we need to insert lamellas there, and put the outer side on glue (putty). But since the slopes need to be made warm (during the installation of plastic windows around the perimeter, they are blown with foam, where cold bridges may remain).

Mineral wool is placed between the glue strip and the blow-out. Be sure to level the outer edge, while inner side will be flat by default, because it is inserted into the profile.

In some cases, the outer edge of the lamella along the perimeter is mounted not with glue, but with a profile installed according to the level. But this is a matter of personal preference.

In the top photo you see how to make a slope angle - for this they use a metal corner with perforation, which is glued around the perimeter. Moreover, this can be done either with putty or Perlfix.

Then these corners allow you to make a clear transition from the slope to the wall, and you will get strict architectural proportions. In the same way, the perforated profile serves as a guide for the internal putty of the slope. Another guide is the window frame.

There are small gaps between the gypsum board slats and the window sill, even if less than a millimeter, but they exist. And if they can be sealed between the drywall with putty, then between the gypsum plasterboard and the PVC window sill, a crack will appear from the putty over time. Therefore, it is best to seal these corners with some kind of sealant (even silicone), and then putty.

Conclusion

Now you know how to properly make slopes from plasterboard slats, and you can do it yourself without resorting to outside help. I invite you to join the discussion on this topic in the comments and watch the video in this article.

November 5, 2016

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Do-it-yourself plasterboard slopes are the most a budget option in the finishing of plastic windows and doorways. This work can be done not only by a professional, but also by an amateur beginner.

The main thing is to be able to use simple construction tools and not forget about accuracy. This type of finishing is simple and does not require much effort. At the same time, the work can be done quickly and efficiently, and the slope will please the eye for many years.

What is drywall

Use waterproof cardboard for slopes

Drywall (GKL) is a building material in the form of a sheet, which consists of an outer layer of cardboard and an inner layer of solid gypsum dough and fillers. It can be bought at any specialized store, it is inexpensive, and you do not need to make any special efforts when working with it.

In the old days, finishing slopes with plaster was very popular. However, this brought many difficulties. It is very difficult to perfectly level the surface here; the plaster itself sometimes takes several days to dry, and not every beginner will be able to achieve the desired result the first time.

Another common finishing option is plastic slopes, but not everyone likes them aesthetically, and there may be problems with further maintenance, because... sometimes it is difficult to get rid of stains and dirt, because of which you have to resort to the help of special chemical compositions, therefore the most affordable option The plasterboard finish remains.

Follow the installation technology and fungus will not be scary

For slopes, it is preferable to use waterproof plasterboard. The advantages of plasterboard sheets, such as building material, are as follows:

environmental Safety;
simple manufacturing technology;
versatility of use (for finishing window and door openings);
low price;
beautiful appearance;
ease of care;
long service life.

At first glance, it may seem that plasterboard finishing is not reliable enough. There are the following misconceptions. The first opinion is that fungus and mold multiply under the plaster slope. However, if the technology for working with these panels is correctly followed, then the fungus is not dangerous.

The second misconception is that slopes made from plasterboard with your own hands turn out fragile and break easily. If you apply force, you can break not only the plaster structure, but also other building materials.

The third misconception is that such slopes absorb moisture.

For finishing you should choose a moisture-resistant material. After quality work and compliance with all stages of technology, drywall will not absorb and retain moisture.

Finishing technology

Most often, gypsum boards are attached to profile frame

So, how to make slopes from plasterboard. There are several different methods of finishing with plasterboard:

fasten with metal profile;
plant on polyurethane foam;
glue to putty.

If you choose any of these options, the result will be excellent; you just need to adhere to a certain technology for finishing plasterboard. Professionals in their field often combine one finishing method with another.

To finish a slope made of gypsum plasterboard, you will need such auxiliary materials as: serpyanka, primer deep penetration, acrylic or oil paint, sandpaper, self-tapping screws, utility knife, spatula, screwdriver, drill with mixer attachment, kneading container, grater for sanding the surface, brush.

Fastening with metal profile

Cut to fit the installed profile required element

When attaching cut pieces of drywall using a metal profile, a single frame is created, the main thing is to ensure reliable fixation of the elements. The fastening process here is similar to wall finishing.

First, the metal profile is leveled, horizontally and vertically. Next, the element itself is cut and cut out the right size using a utility knife.

To do this, pencil marks are made in accordance with the given dimensions, the drywall is cut along these lines with a knife, then the sheet is turned over and lightly pressed on it so that it breaks neatly along the cut line. After this it is trimmed Bottom part gypsum

For additional insulation It is recommended to lay mineral wool between the wall and the drywall. This insulation is required when working with window slopes: it will help retain heat in harsh weather conditions. winter time and coolness in hot summers, protects from street noise.

Very often instead mineral insulation polyurethane foam is used, which helps to seal cracks in less accessible places where it is technically difficult to insert cotton wool. The use of a metal profile and foam is an excellent example of combining two methods of finishing slopes.

After filling the space between the plaster and the wall, drywall is screwed in using self-tapping screws. For better bonding, the joints are glued with serpyanka, on top of which a layer of finishing putty is applied.

To strengthen the angle between the wall and the slope, a perforated corner is used. It can be secured with a stapler or placed on a putty solution. After complete drying, sanding is done to a uniform surface using sandpaper and a special grater. On last stage two layers of paint are applied.

For final finishing slope, you can use acrylic or oil paint. Pasting wallpaper onto a slope is also suitable. At the final stage when working with windows, it is recommended to seal the seam between the drywall and window frame using a special sealant that will not allow the putty to peel off and lose its appearance over time.

The advantages of using a metal profile include speed and cleanliness of work. The disadvantages include the narrowing of the window opening due to the insertion of a profile and the need to fill the void between the wall and the drywall.

Fastening with polyurethane foam

Drywall is mounted on polyurethane foam if it is not possible to install a frame

This method of attaching drywall is not very common. It is used when there is no space to install a metal profile, or the material from which the wall is made is not able to withstand dowel nails. In this case, polyurethane foam comes to the rescue. She glues the plaster firmly to the wall.

As you know, polyurethane foam tends to expand and bulge, so reliable temporary fixation of drywall elements is necessary using long screws. After fixing the plaster, the same steps for finishing the slope follow as described in the previous section. For more information about installing gypsum board slopes, watch this video:

The advantages of fastening slopes with polyurethane foam include its adhesive and thermal insulation properties, but the disadvantages include its ability to expand, as a result of which additional fixation of drywall is necessary.

Fastening with putty

Fastening starts from the top panel

This is the most common option for attaching a slope. The technology of work in this case is elementary. First, the mounting foam formed as a result of installing the window or door is cut off. All old layers of surface finishing (paint, plaster, wallpaper) are removed.

If there are gaps and deep cracks, it is recommended to seal them with plaster. After this, the slope plane is treated with a deep penetration primer. It is advisable to use soil with added impurities for antibacterial treatment against mold and mildew. Next, the drywall elements of the required size are cut out. They are attached to the surface using any putty.

When installing slopes, work begins with fastening the top sheet. To do this, using a spatula, apply a continuous layer of putty to the drywall and insert it into a pre-prepared groove cut in a layer of pre-applied polyurethane foam. The mixture can be applied to the side panels pointwise, every 20 cm. This will save material and drying time for the slope.

If additional fixation of the plaster is necessary, you can resort to using self-tapping screws with long heads, which will need to be unscrewed upon completion of the work. If necessary, you can install specially prepared supports. Further work The finishing of the slope is carried out by analogy with the technology described in the section “Fastening using a metal profile.” How to attach drywall to putty, see this video:

The advantages of fixing drywall with putty include ease of work. The downside is that this finishing method is not suitable for all surfaces. So, the putty does not stick to the wooden surface.

As you can see, finishing slopes with plasterboard with your own hands is quite simple to do. The main thing is to adhere to the proverb “Measure twice, cut once” when working with plaster in order to avoid large consumption of this material.

And of course, we must not forget to follow all the stages of the technology for fastening and finishing the slopes described above.

Finishing slopes with plasterboard is quite easy to do with your own hands. The method refers to the most popular type of design for entrance doors, interior doors, and also for windows.

Installation is simple, and after installing drywall, the openings are beautiful, smooth and strong. There are other design methods, but using gypsum boards is simpler and cheaper, especially if the seam is on a window or doorway big.

Properties of drywall

When planning to make window slopes from plasterboard with your own hands, you need to learn about the advantages and properties of the material. The first thing to notice is the ability to carry out work with your own hands, without the help of craftsmen. The final result will please you and meet all repair requirements.

After cladding, the material can be sheathed, the opening can be decorated with tiles and other finishing materials, for example, using painting or wallpapering. The main properties of drywall when designing slopes are presented in the table:

Properties:	Description:
Decent level of sound insulation and thermal insulation:	If you need a window opening and window sill, you can not only cover it with plasterboard, but also lay an additional layer of insulating materials to strengthen the structure and insulation qualities.
A light weight:	Due to the small mass of plasterboard, there is no need to use special technologies for installation; installation is carried out on a metal profile from which the metal frame is created or on adhesive mixtures.
Ideal plane:	The plasterboard sheets are perfectly flat, due to which the slopes on windows and doors will be smooth, which greatly facilitates the process of finishing with putty, and also speeds up the creation of slopes.
Breathability:	Due to its properties, the slope does not allow deformation, even if there are strong temperature changes or there is high humidity in the rooms.
Environmental friendliness:	Although plasterboard sheets may contain additives, the material is environmentally friendly and slopes can be made in children's rooms. Drywall does not emit toxic substances.
Minimum amount of garbage:	During the installation work, there is almost no waste, dust and other debris from the plasterboard material.

For window slopes made of plasterboard, it is necessary to choose the right sheets, which will have certain types of additives and other additives:

To design slopes in a normal environment, in a residential building or apartment, standard drywall is used, which can withstand humidity up to 70%.
When using plasterboard on the street side or in the bathroom and other damp places, moisture-resistant plasterboard is used; the material additionally contains antifungal and hydrophobic impurities.
To reduce the likelihood of fire, fire-resistant material, which already contains impurities, is used for window and door slopes mineral wool and fiberglass. This type of plasterboard sheet is rarely used, but it is very durable in itself.

Important! Drywall is a breathable material, due to which it can absorb moisture and, if necessary, release it into the atmosphere without changing its shape.

Finishing a window slope with plasterboard (video)

Advantages of plasterboard cladding

The material has been used for window and door slopes for quite some time. This is not surprising, because it has a number of advantages:

Environmentally friendly and safe for human health.
Low material cost.
Easy to install.
Minimal maintenance of ready-made slopes.
Stylish look.
The ability to make an arched opening and other complex shapes.
Long term use of plasterboard slopes.
Possibility of additional insulation of windows or doors.
Versatility: used not only for windows and doors, but also used for leveling ceilings and walls.

Important! Although plasterboard material has a number of advantages, it also has a disadvantage: the sheets are easily damaged mechanically, even material protected from water can be destroyed due to prolonged contact with it.

Preparation for finishing

Before making slopes from plasterboard, you will need to prepare a window or door. Door slope made of plasterboard and window, in terms of preparation, are almost the same, but for doors the following is taken into account:

Presence of communications. For example, wires for the Internet, electricity or a call. The installation is done before the installation of the doorway begins.
Possibility to install second entrance doors. The need arises if the first door is not insulated, and the sound insulation of the doors does not matter.

Preparing the opening is as follows:

When an old window or door is dismantled and a new product is installed, the foam remains and its remains are cut off.
Use a hammer or other device to remove plaster and other protruding parts on windows and doors. Often there may be a metal pin and other elements under the plaster; they are cut off.
The gap, hole and other defects in the opening must be puttied.
The joints that appear between the window frame or interior doors must be coated with sealant.
After the putty and other mixtures have dried, a primer is applied in two layers around the perimeter of the opening.

At the end preparatory work The opening is completely cleaned of dirt. Everything is swept and dried. In order not to damage the window or door frame, it is sealed with masking tape and cardboard.

The frame design method is convenient and practical. True, installation of the material is somewhat more complicated, because the U-profile needs to be fastened with self-tapping screws, which is more difficult and takes longer. The fixation is carried out securely, everything is screwed in flush with the drywall so that the frame is strong. Step by step, you can make the sheathing of the opening yourself like this:

Used for frame wooden planks or metal profile.
The material is cut to fit the opening. The slats need to be installed along the entire perimeter of the slope, on the internal and external corner. For reliability, cross bars are attached.
If desired, insulation, in the form of mineral wool, is placed into the frame; it is installed in ready-made cells.
Now the plasterboard sheets cut to size are fixed. Trimming is carried out only if the manufacture of the frame is completed.
At the end the sheathing is carried out plasterboard sheets directly to the profile or slats.

The advantage of this method is the need to line the slope and adjacent walls. The disadvantage of this method is that it reduces the space in the opening, especially if we're talking about about the door.

Glue method for finishing slopes

There is an option for designing a slope using adhesive solution or putty. Instructions on how to glue drywall are presented below:

Place putty or glue on the cut parts. When using putty, it is better to use a finishing compound. The material is applied around the perimeter and slightly in the middle.
The prepared slopes are moistened with water and drywall can be glued to the slope. Initially, the top element is installed, and then the side parts.
When the wall and drywall are connected, you can press down the sheet and shake it a little to the sides so that the glue spreads and the drywall itself sticks.
If the sheet is fixed tightly and does not move, then everything is left until it hardens completely. According to the advice of the experts, it is better to wait about a day or even two. If the drywall is not securely fixed, it is recommended to support it with strips at the edges and in the middle. When the mixtures dry, the planks are removed.

The disadvantages of the method are similar frame technology, but here are the advantages: the work is done faster, not as expensive, and as reviews show, the installed slope lasts for 10 years, nothing lags behind the walls. From the outside, the glue is immediately removed if it comes out, until it hardens.

Installation on polyurethane foam

You can seal the slope by fixing the drywall with foam. The seal is very simple, but is used if there are few defects on the slopes and holes small sizes, up to 3 cm. When large sizes, defects need to be sealed with foam before installation, the correct method for filling potholes is using cement mortar or starting type of plaster. You need to sew it like this:

Dismantle the old coating, remnants of plaster and foam. Next, large potholes are filled.
When the holes are dry, polyurethane foam is applied to the drywall from the back side of the material. The foam layer is no more than 1 cm. The material is applied in the form of a snake.
The plasterboard material is placed on the slope and pressed against it. The pressure on the drywall must be strong so that the foam adheres to the slope.
After this, the drywall comes off, and on the slope and finishing material foam remains. After 10 minutes the foam will increase in size.
The drywall is again mounted into the slope and pressed against the wall. If necessary, fix the material with spacers and leave it for up to 24 hours without continuing work.
The next stage is sealing the drywall seams on the slopes using plaster.

The disadvantages of this design of door and window slopes are quite large. The biggest disadvantage is that the surface will first need to be leveled, otherwise the sheet of drywall will not work. Drywall on slopes may bend during installation. There are voids left on the door/window slope, making the fixation not very reliable. But this is the most quick method for finishing slopes with plasterboard. When a window or doorway is covered with plasterboard, using any described method, the opening is finished various materials. But before finishing the slopes, you need to do the following:

The slope is puttyed with a thin layer.
WITH outside opening, protection is placed and a corner is formed using a plastic perforated corner, which is covered with putty.
Another layer of putty is laid down to completely level the surface.
Finishing material is selected.

Advice! Painting is used for decoration; you can paint it in any color, for example, the color of a door or window, wallpaper in a room, or use standard white paint. Photos on the Internet will help you decide on your choice; a bay window in an apartment in different colors looks very nice.

Painting is not durable, so for part of the slopes a panel type of material is used, for example, plastic for slopes, instead of plasterboard, PVC panels and other materials, this good material, made according to GOST, is distinguished by its durability. The video shows step by step work with drywall, you can use the method for doors and windows:

Photo gallery of finished works

Purchasing and installing a new double-glazed window does not mean the completion of all window repair activities. It will also be necessary to create an appropriate design for the window opening that meets current standards and requirements in terms of design and level of energy saving. First of all, you should take care of installing suitable slopes.

Most practical material Drywall, which has an excellent combination of low price, ease of processing and ideal surface plane, is considered to be used for arranging slopes. Thanks to these qualities, this material most often becomes the choice of home craftsmen. In this case, you can use one of two suitable technologies: planting the slopes with glue or mounting them on a frame.

Gluing plasterboard slopes

The entire procedure for planting slopes on an adhesive composition can be divided into several stages.

Cleaning the window opening. Here the main task is to prepare the surface of the opening in such a way that its surface can ensure reliable adhesion to the glue. To do this, the opening is treated with a stiff brush or brush, and special attention should be paid to those places where there are signs of damage old paint or plaster. The result should be an absolutely clean surface from which no particles can break off on their own.
The cleaned surface is primed most thoroughly.
Now you should measure the depth and width of the space in window opening which needs to be covered with slopes. Using the obtained dimensions, a silhouette of the slope is drawn on a sheet of drywall and then the window element we need is cut out directly from this silhouette. To complete this task we will need the following set of devices and tools: - tape measure; - rule;
- a special knife for working on drywall. If you don’t have one at hand, then an ordinary stationery knife with break-off blades can also replace a special wave knife.
In order for the sheet to be cut as evenly as possible, you will need to adhere to a certain sequence of actions, which is recommended by both finishing specialists and the drywall manufacturers themselves:
- after drawing the contour of the slope on the canvas, the rule is pressed tightly to the intended lines and with pressure drawn along its working edge so that top sheet cardboard was completely cut through to the plaster layer:
— the sheet is turned over to the opposite side (if you do not apply too much effort and do not make sudden movements, then you do not have to worry about the sheet falling apart on its own in the area of the cut);
- exactly the same cuts are made on the accessible side;
- now you can press the rule to the edge of the cut and lift the sheet by one edge. The drywall will crack perfectly exactly along the line of the cuts.

Applying glue. The adhesive solution prepared according to the manufacturer's recommendations should be applied to reverse side glued slope. In this case, the layer of glue should not be allowed to become continuous. Some gaps of a clean surface are required so that after pressing the slope to the surface of the window opening, the glue can spread freely and fill all microcracks and irregularities. If you apply the glue in a continuous layer, then after applying the slope it will begin to “float” on this layer of glue, preventing the latter from either firmly grasping or drying completely for a long time.

All work on gluing slopes should be completed no later than half an hour after preparing the glue. If set time is exceeded, the glue will already begin to set and become unsuitable for use.

Inclined slopes. When installing such slopes, it is strongly not recommended to fill the free space with glue alone. If the width of the gap is near window frame reaches 3 cm or more, then in this place it will be necessary to glue strips of the same plasterboard to the walls in the window opening, to which the slope itself will be glued in the future.
Horizontal slopes at the top of the window opening. To ensure that the horizontal slopes do not simply try to fall off before the glue has completely set, they should be fixed with vertical spacers. Such spacers can be used wooden slats or bars, the length of which is easiest to adjust. You can rest them either on the window sill or on the floor.

Installation of slopes on a frame made of profiles

Modern models of plastic windows in most cases are made on the basis of frames, which structurally provide for the installation of a special profile for fastening slopes. In this case, all you have to do is remember about this profile when purchasing a window, install it in the appropriate groove on the frame and insert a slope cut in advance from a sheet of plasterboard. The technology for cutting slopes from a solid sheet of plasterboard in this case will not differ in any way from that discussed just above.

If the design of the window frame does not provide for the possibility of using profiles for slopes, then it is not difficult to make them yourself. You can use galvanized or plastic L-shaped profiles as a base. These profiles should be screwed to the inside of the window frame along the lines along which the slopes will come into contact with the window.

Along the outer edges plasterboard slope it is attached to the edge of the wall either with self-tapping screws or with glue, which depends on the type of walls, the type of surrounding finish and other similar factors. It should be taken into account that before the final fixation of the slope, it will be necessary to fill with foam all the cavities formed between it and the surface of the window opening.

Video - DIY installation of plasterboard slopes on windows

There are two main ways to make slopes from plasterboard (GKL) with your own hands: classic plaster and plasterboard.

Finishing slopes from plasterboard attracts with the speed of installation and low cost of the material.

Those who are building a house from scratch, and those who are renovating old premises, have the right to choose the most suitable one according to their taste. You need to think over and weigh which method will take less time, money and materials with the same quality.

The main advantages of plasterboard slopes

They are installed quickly, reliably, smoothly, beautifully. you get a cozy living room with excellent thermal insulation and noise-absorbing characteristics.

Required tools: 1 - construction glasses, 2 - level, 3 - hacksaw, 4 - metal scissors, 5 - pliers, 6 - side cutters, 7 - hammer, 8 - knife with a replaceable blade, tape measure.

If desired, anyone can install such slopes with their own hands, having the simplest construction skills and the necessary tools.

When making slopes, two methods are used. Drywall is attached to the frame or glued to old slopes.

Necessary tools and materials for installing plasterboard slopes:

hammer drill (if the walls are not wooden);
screwdriver or Phillips screwdriver;
plumb line or level;
grinder or metal scissors;
screws for metal or wood;
fine sandpaper;
square;
roulette;
pencil.

If this list of tools seems too long and incomprehensible to the owner planning to do the installation himself, he should invite a specialist.

Choosing drywall

Windows are a source of condensation and experience significant temperature changes. Therefore, it is advisable to make slopes from moisture-resistant plasterboard. If this is not possible, you can use a regular one, but first it needs to be primed several times on each side, and it is better to treat the inside with a moisture-repellent liquid. Slopes made of plasterboard do not experience special loads, so you can make them from thin plasterboard for the ceiling.

Installation of slopes on a metal profile frame

Windows are a source of condensation and experience significant temperature changes. Therefore, it is advisable to make slopes from moisture-resistant plasterboard.

Today, in the production of plastic windows, profiles are used that provide for further installation of drywall. The choice of such a profile should be specified when ordering windows.

It is installed when installing the window into special grooves on the frame along the top and sides.
If it is not possible to purchase and install a special profile, you can use a regular profile for drywall.
Construction of the frame can begin when the mounting foam, after attaching the plastic windows and window sills, has completely hardened.
The profile is screwed with metal screws at the junction of the frame and drywall.
If the wall is installed window will be sheathed with plasterboard, you need to install wall guide profiles so that they also serve as fastening strips for slopes.
You need to select the angle of rotation at which the slope will join the window frame, and move the guide profiles some distance outward from the window.

Installation of slopes with glue

Before installing plasterboard slopes, it is necessary to prepare the old slopes. To do this, the remains of whitewash, paint, putty, and dust are removed from them. The cracks in them can be repaired using tile adhesive or plaster mortar. The entire slope is primed with a brush. The adhesive can be applied when the primer is completely dry.

If the old slope is fairly smooth, you can use tile adhesive to glue the drywall strips to interior works. If there are large differences, you need to use Perlfix glue or similar.

Scheme for finishing slopes with plasterboard.

Balls are formed from the adhesive mass. The diameter depends on the gap between the drywall strip and the old slope. The balls are attached after 10-30 cm. More often it is not recommended, since then it will be difficult to tap the strips. The voids between the balls allow the strip to be tapped gently and help the glue dry quickly.

The diluted glue hardens quickly, you need to have time to work it out within half an hour. Therefore, all strips of drywall must be prepared before thinning it. If the glue begins to set, adding water to it and mixing again is useless. It's better to throw it away and mix a new one.

If there are large differences on the old slope, more than 3 cm, it is not worth gluing the strips with balls. This high consumption glue, and strength cannot be achieved. In places large differences pieces of drywall are glued in several layers. This way you can increase the layer up to 20 cm. In this case, before gluing the slope strips, you need to wait at least an hour.

Once the drywall strips are installed, tap them down. Drywall is a fragile material. Therefore, you need to tap through a flat board or block with your hands or a hammer, preferably wooden or rubber, while constantly checking the horizontal and vertical positions with a level or plumb line.

The vertical strip must be secured with spacers, resting one end on the window sill, the other on the slope, and wait at least 1-2 hours. During this time the glue will set.

After the slopes are glued, you should wait several days for the glue to completely harden. The waiting time depends on the thickness of the glue. After this, you should foam the void between the wall and the slope. You shouldn't do this before. Air passes through the unsealed gap, and the glue dries faster.

We glue plasterboard slopes onto polyurethane foam

This is the easiest way. In strips of drywall at a distance of 5 cm on the side of the window, from the window sill and from the other slope, holes with a diameter slightly larger than the diameter of the tube from the foam cylinder are drilled and fixed in the window opening. You can secure it with spacers, but it is better with several screws, which can later be unscrewed or left under putty.

Gluing drywall to the slopes using polyurethane foam will allow for maximum insulation of the slopes.

IN drilled hole the tube from the cylinder is inserted and foam is injected until it appears in the next one. This operation must be repeated for everyone through one hole. Then you should foam the groove between the new and old slope. After a day, the spacers can be removed and excess foam can be trimmed. An air cavity has formed between the old and new slope, which conserves heat well and conducts sound poorly.

This method of foaming can be used for slopes mounted on a frame, and not only for plastic windows. All the options considered can be done with your own hands.

Final installation steps

To ensure that the corners are even and always remain so, they are sealed with a metal corner. Can be glued with glue or putty.

The outer part of the slope is puttied. The surface is almost flat, so you can use finishing putty. After puttying and sanding, the slopes must be primed.

The junction of the slope and plastic windows is filled with white acrylic glue. If the plasterboard window slope fits tightly enough to the frame, a groove is cut at an angle of 45 degrees to a depth of 3 mm. After drying, acrylic turns into rubber and does not crack over time. Drying time is about 12 hours. Unlike silicone, it can be painted.

The last stage is painting. It is advisable to paint with a roller. If you paint with a brush, the movements should be directed horizontally, “along the light.”

Knowing how to install plasterboard slopes for plastic windows with your own hands, you can start working. There should not be any particular difficulties when performing the work. Anyone can make plasterboard slopes with their own hands. This will save you money family budget and will guarantee the quality of the work performed.

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