What to use when attaching to plastic panels. Installation of PVC wall panels, how to do it correctly, useful tips

During renovations, you don’t always want to deal with “wet” work - laying tiles, for example. There are more simple technology- wall decoration with plastic panels. You can cope on your own even without much experience construction work and in a day or two carry out repairs in the bathroom, toilet, balcony/loggia and kitchen.

Types of plastic panels for wall decoration

This type of finishing material is made from PVC - polyvinyl chloride. In a semi-liquid state, this polymer is squeezed into a mold. On ready-made panels draw a drawing. It can be first printed on film, then glued and varnished (laminated panels). Moreover, these panels may not have a smooth, but a textured surface. The design applied using this technology retains paint for a long time, but similar materials cost about twice as much.

Another technology is to apply the design directly to the plastic, and then cover it with two layers of varnish. More cheap technology, but the service life and quality of the drawing are lower.

Ceiling and wall

There are two types of plastic panels - for ceilings and for walls. Those intended for the ceiling have a thickness of 5 mm and thinner partitions, and those for walls have a thickness of 8 to 10 mm and thicker walls and partitions. You can determine which species is in front of you by looking at the cut. This type of finishing material is distinguished by the fact that it has a smooth surface and, when joined tightly, the seams are not very noticeable.

There is another standard size, which is also called plastic lining - with a thickness of 10 mm, the panel has a width of 10 cm and shaped edges that are more typical for plastic lining. If you decorate the walls with this material, the surface will not be flat, but embossed, similar to wooden lining.

Sizes and prices

The width of plastic wall panels is most often 25 cm and 37 cm, length - 2700 cm and 3000 cm. There are others non-standard sizes, but these are the most common. There is quite a wide variation in price - it depends on the wall thickness, type of printing, manufacturer, complexity of the design, etc.

Title/photo	Parameters (width/length/thickness)	Type of staining	Manufacturer	Price for 1 panel
Pink violet	250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm		V-Plast, Russia	120 rub.
Kanamala	250 mm * 2700 mm * 9 mm	lamination	Vivipan	220 rub.
PVC Panel Mosaic Turquoise	950 mm * 480 mm * 3 mm		Russia	128 rub.
Scarlet	250 mm * 2700 mm * 8 mm		Cronoplast (Russia)	215 RUR

Thin PVC wall panels

Above we discussed products that consist of two layers of plastic connected by jumpers. Along with a lot of advantages, they have a rather serious drawback: if you apply enough force, they can be pushed through. This is often the reason for refusing to use them. Therefore, thin plastic wall panels appeared on the market not so long ago. Their thickness is 3 mm and there are no cells. Only a layer of plastic with a pattern applied to the surface. Accordingly, there is nothing to push. The dimensions of this type of panels are 950 * 480 mm or so.

Their installation method is different - they are glued to the walls. Due to the fact that this finishing material has a very small thickness, it is cut with scissors and, moreover, takes up very little space from the room - 3 mm.

What to look for when choosing

It is clear that the choice begins with color and pattern. But to avoid any difficulties during the installation process, you need to keep track of some points when purchasing:

It is also worth checking the quality of the polymer used. You need to take one plank so that it bends by about 30% and straighten it. After that, examine it. If there is no damage to the plastic or pattern, everything is fine.

The correct technology for installing plastic panels on walls

The good thing about decorating walls with plastic panels is that you can do it yourself and it takes a little time. Well, one more plus - you need the usual tools:

This is all that may be needed when installing PVC panels on walls. The time required is one to two days, depending on the availability of experience and the area being repaired.

What to make the sheathing from

Installation of PVC panels on walls according to the technology should be done on the lathing. The sheathing is made from:

Of the three listed materials, it is best to use plastic for installing plastic panels in the bathroom. It reacts little to temperature changes, does not react in any way to changes in humidity, does not rot or crack. Galvanization feels good in a humid environment, but it must be good quality, otherwise it will rust anyway. The most unimportant material is wood, but even with proper treatment they can last for years. And for this to happen, carefully follow the recommendations for applying an antibacterial composition. In some cases, it is enough to brush it a couple of times, in others it is enough to soak it for a while and then dry it.

How to make lathing

Before installing the sheathing under the PVC panels, the walls must be prepared. First, remove the old finish and anything that might fall off. If there are large recesses on the surface, it is better to seal them, and strongly protruding parts can be trimmed off. After the wall has become more or less even, it is treated with a primer with an antibacterial component (against fungi and mold). After this, you can begin installing the sheathing.

The sheathing strips are positioned perpendicular to the PVC panels. That is, if you attach the panels vertically, the sheathing – horizontally and vice versa. Install the sheathing strips at a distance of 30-50 cm from each other. Optimal distance— 30 ​​cm (the “walking” panel will be smaller). The strips are attached at the beginning and end of the wall, as well as around window and door openings.

The sheathing under the plastic panels is most often secured with dowels. IN concrete wall put 6*40 mm (so that with reverse side a piece of the concrete partition did not fall out), in the brick partition - 6*60 mm. Fasteners are installed in increments of 50-60 cm.

In order for the wall decoration with plastic panels to be smooth and beautiful, the lathing must be placed in the same plane. For this purpose, under wooden planks install wooden spacers where necessary (pieces of plywood are possible), but they also need to be treated with a compound against fungi and mold.

You can also use perforated hangers for plasterboard ceilings. They are used when aligned in one plane metal profiles, but they can also be used when installing wooden blocks.

If you decide to make a sheathing from plastic mounting profiles, then it is worth considering one point: they must be strictly perpendicular to the PVC panels. Even a slight deviation can lead to the fact that the clamps simply do not snap into place and will not hold anything. Therefore, check the verticals/horizontals very carefully. One more point: it is better to install wooden planks of the same thickness as the plastic guides along the perimeter of the walls, doors and windows: we will attach the starting profiles to them.

Installation of plastic panels

In addition to the plastic wall panels themselves, you will need to buy some more accessories in the store - these are corner, starting and F-shaped profiles. They are necessary to give the finish a finished and neat look.

At the floor and ceiling level, you can use either a starter or ceiling plinth. The starting one is just a narrow strip of plastic, and the ceiling plinth is a shaped product with a characteristic cut.

Finishing PVC walls panels begins with installing selected profiles in one of the corners and at the top/bottom. They are attached to the installed sheathing strips. Fasteners are selected depending on what material was chosen for the sheathing. The result is something very similar to a frame. We will insert the panels into it.

The problem point is the junction of the corner and ceiling plinth (we do the same below)

Next, cut the first panel to the length or height of the wall. Plastic wall panels are cut with a saw and a metal blade. When working with your hand (and even more so with your foot), do not lean on it - push. To ensure that the strip fits into its designated place without any problems, carefully measure the length, subtract 4-5 mm and cut it off.

The protruding spike is cut off from the first strip, after which the cut side is inserted into the corner profile, tucking the edges into the top and bottom. Lightly tapping with your palm, push the bar all the way, check the verticality of the level, applying it to the edge of the installed strip. Then they fix the sheathing to each plank.

Having installed and secured the first strip, cut off the second, join it to the first, secure it, etc. No difficulties. Problems may only arise with the last panel on the wall. You usually have to cut it to width, and then try to tuck it directly into the groove of the previous plank and into the corner or starting profile. It doesn’t always work out neatly—the plastic often gets jammed. This situation can be avoided by not securing the second corner profile. Then a corner profile is put on the panel cut to size, the whole thing is joined together with the previous plank and only then the corner profile is secured. This is not entirely correct, since only one half of the corner profile is attached, while the second remains unfastened. But after you've been tired of trying to do it right, you don't pay attention to it anymore. Then everything is repeated - further finishing of the walls with plastic panels occurs in exactly the same way.

How to do without corner profiles

If we are accustomed to the presence of skirting boards at the top and bottom of the wall, then not everyone likes corner profiles. When decorating walls with plastic panels, you can do without them. You will need a sharp wallpaper or stationery knife. If you cut a strip of plastic from the back in the right place, the panel can be bent. This won’t be visible from the front side, and you can avoid the hassle of dealing with the last panel. And outwardly, many people like this solution better.

To correctly determine where to cut, insert the last panel, we fasten it. We take a piece of panel a few centimeters wide, insert it into the already installed one and mark where the corner is located. We take it out, cut out a strip of plastic in the marked place, and try it on. If everything is fine, we use this piece as a template, moving the exact location of the cut. This is also not a technology, but it seems to me that decorating the walls with plastic panels looks better. Especially if the color and texture of the corner profile is different.

How else can you fix PVC panels on the walls?

Although the method described above for decorating walls with plastic panels is not very complicated, it is not suitable for everyone. For example, the walls are perfectly smooth after plastering with beacons or. It is clear that lathing is not needed. It will only take up space. In this case, they violate technology - they glue plastic panels onto silicone or polyurethane foam.

Starting profiles in in this case you will still have to install them, but they will need to be secured to the appropriate dowels. After that, foam (zigzag) or silicone is applied to the back side of the panel (in islands in increments of 10-15 cm), the bar is inserted into the profiles, pressed, and fixed in one or two places with appropriate fasteners. They continue in the same spirit.

The advantage of the method is that it is very fast, the disadvantage is that it only works on smooth (or almost) walls. But the most important thing is that it is simply impossible to remove the finish without destroying the plastic panels.

Ceiling and wall cladding using PVC panels is becoming increasingly widespread and popular. It's simple, affordable and aesthetic option. In most cases, when installing such panels, a frame and lathing are used, but in some situations this can be avoided. If the panels are installed without lathing, a special glue comes to the rescue, which will act as a fastener between the wall and the panel.

How to attach PVC panels to a wall without lathing

Attaching PVC panels to a surface without using lathing is a process with correctly completed work steps and a reasonable choice of glue.

In the process under consideration, glue plays a vital role, and therefore its characteristics and properties will determine the quality of the repair as a whole.

When is it possible to install it yourself without lathing?

Attaching PVC panels to a wall or ceiling without sheathing is quite simple, and it is quite possible to cope with such a task with your own hands. This option requires the use of a minimum of tools, knowledge and effort. Among the main requirements are criteria for the condition of the wall, which must be dry and even, as well as the choice of adhesive composition. It is not recommended to use this option for specific rooms with temperature differences and non-standard operating conditions.

When fastening without a frame is impossible

There are a number of cases when certain restrictions are imposed due to which it is simply impossible to attach plastic panels without a frame.

Among the main such cases are:

• the wall has significant defects or unevenness;
• the old coating is not removed or is partially removed;
• the wall surface does not dry out.

Of course, this is not a complete list, since in each individual situation and room the conditions may be different.

How to attach plastic wall panels simply to a wall without a frame: options

In the case where wall panels are attached directly to a bare wall, the only option for attaching them without additional devices and damaging the wall is gluing. The choice of glue, as well as the preparation of the surface, should be taken responsibly. Depending on the quality of the materials used, as well as the thoroughness of the preparatory work, will depend on the final result. Additionally, the reliability and durability of the fastening may also vary depending on these aspects.

What acts as a wall mount

In case PVC installation When the panels are installed without lathing, a special glue acts as a fastening to the wall. The range of glues on the modern market is represented by a variety of brands and varieties. It is recommended to refer to the ratings of individual brands and their manufacturers, choosing only the best products.

Among all the options offered for sale, it is recommended to pay special attention to glue for gluing plastic.

When choosing a glue, you should pay attention to some features:

• After drying, it should acquire transparency and form a film layer;
• the glue must be resistant to moisture, frost and any temperature changes;
• must provide long-term and reliable fixation;
• should bond surfaces for a long period and harden quickly.

It is not recommended to use hot melt adhesive to attach the panels. When temperatures fluctuate, it can expand, up to complete separation fragment from the wall surface. Liquid nails and polyurethane sealant are more effective.

What materials are used for mounting on a wall?

In the case where installation is carried out directly on a bare, pre-prepared wall, the workflow will require:

• plastic PVC panels;
• specially selected glue;
• building level;
• grinder for cutting plastic panels;
• devices for marking.

In addition, do not forget about the materials that will be used for preliminary leveling, coating and degreasing the surface.

How to attach PVC wall panels

Fastening wall PVC panels is carried out according to a certain algorithm. Mounting to a wall without battens is a simple process that anyone can do.

Before you begin installing the panels, you should first prepare the surface. To do this, the wall is initially leveled, cleaned and degreased.

The further order of work will be as follows:

• Take a separate panel and wipe it with a damp cloth from the back.
• Next, glue is applied to the same surface in a dotted manner, with a gap of a couple of decimeters between individual drops.
• After these steps, the panel is applied to the wall.
• After applying the fragment to the wall, it is pressed for a few seconds.

If liquid nails acted as fastening to the wall, then after gluing it is recommended to tap the fragment evenly and tear it off. This is due to the fact that this type of glue requires five minutes of ventilation to acquire the necessary rigidity.

Is it possible to install PVC panels without lathing on the ceiling?

Before you start attaching plastic panels to the ceiling without lathing, you should first determine the distance between the panels and the ceiling. The mentioned interval depends on the type of lighting used or planned.

In the case when lighting is provided by built-in lamps, the gap should be at least ten to fifteen centimeters. This is necessary in order to completely and completely hide the wiring. It is recommended to outline the locations of the lamps in advance, cut holes for them and install the bases of the lighting fixtures.

In addition to the above preliminary steps, in the case of the ceiling, as well as with the walls, it is necessary to level it and clean it. In most cases, you can do without lathing, and the stages of work will coincide with the installation of panels on the walls. The only difference is that before attaching the fragments to the ceiling, you must immediately install them on three walls. ceiling skirting boards. During the work process, it is recommended to regularly use a building level.

If installation work is carried out in a bathroom or other room with high humidity, then the gaps formed in the wall finishing should be filled silicone sealant. This will ensure the waterproofness and durability of the ceiling finish.

The article examined the features and varieties of such a process as attaching PVC panels to a surface without sheathing. Overall, this is an unusual but common method of installation, which in many ways is not inferior to the process using frames.

Useful video

The popularity of PVC panels in construction is due to very good reasons. They are attractive decorative possibilities, consisting of a variety of shades, patterns and textures, low cost, simple installation, which the owner of a house or apartment can do with his own hands. Installation wall panels PVC will allow you to forget about the need for a long time cosmetic repairs- compliance with the operating rules will allow them to maintain an attractive appearance for a long period.

Where are PVC panels used?

Considering the modern approach to finishing materials It’s somewhat difficult to imagine that plastic wall panels will be used to decorate a bedroom or living room, but in the hallway, kitchen, bathroom or veranda they sometimes turn out to be simply irreplaceable. They are also often used for finishing public and office premises.

The variety of external styles of their PVC panel models allows them to be used in any room design style, and their moisture-resistant properties make them an ideal, hygienist-approved finish for bathrooms and toilet rooms. No less valuable property panels are considered to be able to withstand the loads created when an apartment is flooded by residents living on higher floors. Even in the event of a serious accident, the panels do not have to be replaced with new ones - they can be easily cleaned of dirt and will acquire their original appearance after drying.

When using wall panels for the kitchen, where grease and soot may settle, it will be enough to periodically wipe the PVC material warm water with ordinary detergents.

Mold, fungi and bacteria cannot reproduce on the surface of the material.

Dimensions of PVC wall panels

Firstly, all produced panels can be divided by thickness into 5 mm and 8-10 mm. Sheets with a width of 100 mm usually have a length of 3 m, if the width of the sheet is from 200 to 370 mm, then its length can be 2.6 m, 2.7 m, 3.0 m.

According to the design, a 100 mm wide lining may differ in the width of the lock - for a “European” it is narrower, for a “Polish” it is wider. The 12.5 cm wide lining has a double profile and is quite rare on sale.

Panel material differs from lining in the absence of connecting seams; the width of the panel can vary between 15 - 50 cm.

Preparing for work

As already mentioned, especially careful preparation walls will not be required before installation work. But you should measure the surfaces that will be sheathed with maximum accuracy and correctly calculate the amount of material for their sheathing.

In addition, you will need to decide how the installation will be carried out - if the walls and ceiling in the room turn out to be perfectly smooth, then they can simply be covered with panels. But if the task is to give the room ideal parameters, then you should take care of installing the frame; the main advantage of this option is the ability to give the room an aesthetic appearance by hiding all utility lines under the surface of the panel cladding.

When performing work you will need to use the following tools:

• comfortable stepladder,
• drill or hammer drill,
• hacksaw for metal,
• tape measure and level,
• painting knife,
• hammer,
• self-tapping screws.

It is recommended to stock them in advance, otherwise it will not be possible to assemble them accurately and efficiently. Having collected everything you need, you can start marking. For the ceiling, PVC panels with a width of 100 mm are usually used, the so-called. clapboard Marking lines for installing the profile should be done every 0.4 m. First, the lowest point on the ceiling is determined, and marks are made from it corresponding to the width of the panel. Then, using a level around the perimeter of the room, marks are made at the points where anchors or dowels will be attached, with the help of which the frame will be attached to the walls or ceiling.

Profiles load-bearing frame must be mounted perpendicular to the PVC plates attached to them. To simplify the marking process, experts recommend using a thin cord in addition to placing marks and levels. Rub it with colored chalk, press the ends against the marked wall - a colored mark will remain along its entire length.

How to assemble the frame correctly

The quality of the finish will depend on the correct assembly of the frame, which is a connection of profiles. Different materials can be used as a profile:

• wood,
• plastic sheathing,
• metal.

Naturally, each of them has its own advantages, which determine the rationality of using the material in certain conditions. A wood frame, for example, is recommended for use in rooms with normal air humidity; if this option is acceptable in a kitchen, then using it in a bathroom or on a balcony is unlikely to be advisable. In any case, using natural and environmentally friendly wood material, you will need to treat it with high-quality impregnation that protects against the penetration of moisture and the development of fungi.

When installing a wooden frame, the beams are fastened every 0.6 m, using dowels or impact screws. If you need to give the boards the required level, use a lining. Wooden frame its characteristics are somewhat inferior to plastic or metal structures.

The use of U-shaped plastic profiles allows you to take advantage of the following advantages:

• low cost,
• light weight,
• simplicity of fastening work,
• ability to withstand moisture, steam, and temperature changes.

The profile is installed every 0.3 m, according to pre-drawn lines. The fastening dowels or self-tapping screws used during installation are installed every 1 m. The profile is joined at an angle; it is necessary to control that the joints are smooth, with well-fitting surfaces of the profiles.

As an advantage, we can note the possibility of using profile grooves for laying electric cable.

PVC wall panels are lightweight and do not require a particularly powerful frame. If you still decide to install a metal sheathing, then the cable will have to be laid in special corrugated polyvinyl chloride pipes - this will eliminate the possibility of damage to the braid power cable sharp edges of the frame profile.

Basic rules for installing plastic profiles and panels

When installing a PVC profile, you should adhere to the following rules:

• installation should begin after the material has adapted to the room temperature, especially if it was stored in a room with a temperature below +10 C,
• The lamellas should be placed perpendicular to the direction of the frame slats,
• if there is observed in the room high humidity, then ventilation cuts are made in the frame,
• we should not forget about the need for 5 mm compensation gaps, taking into account the possibility of changing material parameters with increasing temperature,
• installation of panels without a pattern is carried out arbitrarily; if there is a pattern on the surface, work starts from the left corner and moves to the right,
• It is not possible to plan the installation of PVC structures and use them as finishing in rooms with temperatures above +40 C, such as bathhouses or steam rooms.

The procedure for performing installation work

ceiling

You can begin directly installing the panels after completing the construction of the frame. Installation begins from the outermost strip, it is attached in the very corner, to the transverse profile using self-tapping screws. Each subsequent panel will be inserted into the groove of the previous one. The procedure will be repeated until the finish reaches the opposite wall. If necessary, the last panel is cut to width. But you can do it another way: unfold the panel so that the fastening lock is on the other side, then trim the groove from the side.

Since the material is fragile, the use of sharp external influences on it can lead to the appearance of cracks on the surface, which cannot be eliminated.

When applying panels during installation, do not apply special efforts. If necessary, a stationery knife can be used as a handy tool; the edges of plastic panels can be directed using its narrow blade.

After completing the installation of the last panel, you can begin installing the baseboard. To fasten it, liquid nails are used; they are applied to inner part. Then the plinth is pressed tightly against finished surface ceiling and hold for 10 seconds. The remaining glue is carefully removed.

Because solidification liquid nails happens very quickly, you should hurry up with removing the deposits.

wall decoration

Using PVC wall panels for a bathroom or toilet, home or apartment owners have the opportunity to short time arrange a practical and sufficient cozy interior in sanitary facilities. The process of finishing the walls has almost the same technology that is used when installing the ceiling.

A frame made of plastic or metal profile is mounted on a wall treated with an antifungal primer. The installation of the first panel is carried out by inserting it together with the corner into the profile, the subsequent ones are inserted into the grooves of the previous ones and fixed on metal guides using clamps. The last panel on the wall is installed in a U-shaped corner and together with it is attached to the frame. Next, work is carried out on installing the corners.

Some difficulties may arise when performing installation work on walls where installation of switches and sockets will be required. Before installing the finishing slabs in this case, you should install the box and lay the electrical cable. When installing the panels, you will need to cut holes of the appropriate size in the marked places to install sockets.

1. When purchasing PVC boards, you should make sure that there are no curved transverse stripes on them, the coloring of the material should be uniform, and there should not be any physical defects on the surface. It is good if the surface of the panels is protected with a special film.
2. The purchased panels must have the same shade or monochromatic pattern; there should be no areas with a blurred pattern or poor-quality painting.
3. You should make sure that there are a sufficient number of stiffeners inside the panel - they a large number of can provide material strength and resistance to pressure loads.
4. When trying to connect the panels, no gaps should form; the surface at the junction should look like a monolith.
5. You should not purchase materials that give different openings when joined - at one end of the seam it can be 1 mm, at the other - up to 4 mm.
6. Refrain from purchasing panels that have waves on the surface and visible stiffeners - this is evidence of poor quality.
7. It is not recommended to purchase additional material from another batch even if the article number is the same.

PVC material, great for self-installation, therefore, the installation of plastic slats is accessible to any person who gets down to business, having previously prepared the tools and materials:

* square, electric drill, pobedit drills, jigsaw, water level, screwdriver, stapler (10 mm staples or more), pliers, tape measure, hammer, CD foam, ladder;

* dowels/nails, plastic material, starting strips, corners and connecting elements, sheathing strips and bars, ceiling and floor plinths, a can of liquid nails.

The process of installing plastic sheathing step by step

1. We make a lattice base so that it serves frame structure to secure the panels. The size of the beams for the sheathing is 30*40, 30*50, 50*50 mm, but not less than “twenty”. We recommend treating the wood with antifungal impregnation if the dampness in the room is high, and maybe even choosing a galvanized profile.

The bars are fastened to concrete with dowel nails (6 mm diameter, length from 60 mm), and to wood - with self-tapping screws. The sheathing must be leveled when it is secured to the surface using plywood pads. The distance between the slats should be up to 500 mm. It is necessary that the slats are perpendicular to the panels and must be located at the beginning and end of the surfaces to be covered (floor-ceiling, window openings).

We make lathing for installing panels

2. On the prepared sheathing at the junction of the walls, from where the installation of panels will begin, it is strengthened using furniture stapler\ clips \ self-tapping screws \ nails starting strip (this is a strip with an “L”- and “U”-shaped section). If the wall is higher than the length of the panel, joining elements - "H" - will be required.

3. We insert the first PVC panel into the groove of the profile, making sure that the connection is tight and that there are no gaps between the panels. Be sure to check the location of the first panel with a level. Then we attach with staples wide shelf to the sheathing.

4. Install subsequent panels in the same way, inserting them into the fixed groove narrow shelf. The sequence of work is as follows: insert a narrow shelf into the groove, snap it into place, check with a plumb line, fix the panel with a stapler on the sheathing. We fix the last panel in the corner profile. It is advisable to trim it so as not to crush the corner strip.

5. We seal the gaps formed when joining plastic elements with special slats with corners (there are external and internal, we select them according to location). Can be applied starting bar, which looks like the English letter F in cross-section, that is, F-shaped when finishing a joint with a window, a corner surface or a doorway. Bringing the plank to the floor, cover the gaps with plinth. End strips and baseboard trim will help give the surface a finished look.

Requirements when working with PVC materials

* constant room temperature, if there is a difference, then within 20°C;

* installation only in the warm season, so that the environment is warmed up to at least +10 degrees, the need for “tracking” plastic materials warm before installation;

* holes are needed in the lattice lining, if there is high humidity, to ventilate the space;

* transverse installation (horizontal) means that the edge on the facade should be at the bottom to prevent water from flowing in;

* plastic changes in length, “growing” by one tenth of a percent with every ten degrees, leave gaps.

Pros and cons of using PVC panels

Many colors, ease of installation, good sound and heat insulation are the advantages of the material. And let's consider the disadvantages fire danger PVC and the need to disassemble the entire coating if one element is damaged.

Video - installation of plastic panels

Interior wall decoration with decorative plastic panels - good way improve your home with your own hands, starting from the kitchen with the bathroom and ending glazed balcony. To cover rooms with plastic elements, 2 technologies are used - glue installation and installation using lathing. For those who plan to take on the matter on their own, we suggest that you consider both methods in detail and choose best option. But first you need to do...

Selecting panels for wall and ceiling cladding

Cladding walls and ceilings with plastic is a worthy alternative to other finishing materials - plasterboard, fiberboard, liquid wallpaper, tiles and so on. The fact is that the installation of polyvinyl chloride (PVC) panels is both the first and final stage interior design premises, while the drywall still needs to be finished with porcelain stoneware or wallpaper. If we compare PVC with tiles, then together with the cost of installation work it will cost much more.

The decorative panel is made of two layers of polyvinyl chloride with air gap between them, in which special stiffening ribs are installed. On one side, the product is equipped with a groove, on the other, with a ridge for joining with adjacent elements or a guide bar. By appearance The panel surfaces are divided into matte and glossy, and according to the method of applying the pattern they are divided into the following groups:

• monochromatic plastics (white is most often used);
• with a frieze or laminated, the design is applied together with an adhesive polymer film;
• with an ornament applied using photo printing technology, thermal printing and other similar methods.

Panels with ornaments applied using frieze technology

Note. The pattern on laminated products is made textured, that is, embossed. To verify this, just run your hand over the surface of the plastic.

To successfully install plastic panels and not encounter problems during the operation of the cladding, consider the following recommendations when choosing:

1. Do not buy products from textured pattern for rooms where walls and ceilings quickly become dirty - hallway, kitchen, bathroom. This type of siding is more difficult to clean from stains of dirt or grease than a smooth surface.
2. For the same reason, you should not use wall panels with a glossy finish in the kitchen, toilet and bathroom.
3. Try to choose products with thick walls that do not bend under finger pressure. The strength is also affected by the number of stiffeners located inside each element.
4. Please note that cheap plastic is fragile and its characteristics deteriorate over the years. Such a budget option suitable for covering a balcony or loggia.
5. When purchasing, inspect each lamella for mechanical damage and scratches.

Details about choosing PVC panels for internal lining explained in the video:

Calculation of material quantity

To determine the number of panels and plastic fittings you need to know the dimensions of the walls, ceilings and all openings - windows and doors. The calculation scheme is as follows: the length of the wall is divided by the width of the lamella and the resulting value is added to the margin for trimming (another 2-3 elements). It is easier to calculate the material for the ceiling: its long side is divided by the width of the siding. Most products offered on the market have the following dimensions:

• length – up to 3 m;
• width – from 25 to 50 cm;
• thickness is in the range of 8-10 mm.

Note. Usually practiced inside the house vertical finishing walls with panels. There are two reasons: increased material consumption and lack of length of elements when installing in large rooms. Forming a joint in the middle of a wall is unsightly. The exception is small rooms and corridors, where plastic can be attached in both ways.

The length of the guide strips and other accessories is determined by the dimensions of the rooms and windows, taking into account a margin of at least 10%. The purpose of these parts is to form beautiful joints at all corners and around openings. To understand which fittings go where, check out the installation diagram:

If you plan to lay PVC panels with fastening on the frame, then the number of its elements is calculated using the following algorithm:

1. Measure the height of the walls and divide it by 40 cm (the installation step of the sheathing slats). Multiply the result by the perimeter of the room and get total length all frame crossbars.
2. For a subsystem made of metal profiles, you need to add the length of the corner posts to the previous value.
3. The footage of slats for framing openings is determined by their perimeter, multiplied by the number of windows and doors.

Advice. When purchasing materials for sheathing, allow for a 10-15% reserve for trimmings and sheathing complex walls and ceilings.

Based on the number of frame elements, you can approximately estimate the number of fasteners - clamps, screws or nails. Add here dowels for installing sheathing strips, screwed to the walls at intervals of 50 cm.

Installation of decorative panels on the frame

Attaching the lamellas to the subsystem provides several advantages - the possibility of alignment building structures, replacing damaged elements and installing soundproofing slabs between the slats. There are 3 types of frames - wooden, metal and on special PVC profiles. The first one is the most popular due to affordable price wood, but metal is much more convenient to work with. Plastic profiles are installed when there is no need to eliminate the curvature of surfaces.

Advice. In a bathroom where moisture is constantly present, it is better to install a subsystem made of metal or PVC, since wood will not last long there.

Installation of a subsystem made of wooden beams

Before starting work, the walls do not need to be cleared, puttied or painted; when ready, immediately begin assembling the sheathing in the following order:

1. Mark the surfaces of the walls, indicating the places where the racks and horizontal slats are attached (steps of 40-50 cm).
2. Having aligned the vertical with a building level, place and secure the corner vertical strips.
3. Drill holes at 50 cm intervals and install horizontal slats. To ensure that their outer surfaces are in the same plane, use pads of different thicknesses.

Reference. Subsystems made of galvanized profiles are best suited for leveling walls using adjustable brackets.

There must be an opening between the ceiling and the plastic for inserting ceiling lights

Suspended ceiling lathing is assembled in a similar way, only you need to make an indentation from the ceiling equal to the height of the lamps that will be built directly into the plastic. Further installation of PVC panels is carried out in the following order:

1. Attach 2 parts: a starting guide strip along the floor and a corner profile, screwing them to the sheathing with screws, as shown in the photo.
2. Adjust all the panels to the height of the room by cutting them to size with your own hands.
3. Take the first lamella and insert it inside the starting rail, and then slide it into the groove of the corner profile. Screw the panel ridge to each frame element with self-tapping screws or secure with clamps.
4. Install all wall slats in the same way. When you reach the end, secure the second corner strip.
5. Trim the last panel from the ridge side and insert it into the grooves of the previous element and the corner profile. There is no need to screw it to the subsystem.
6. Complete the cladding by installing the ceiling plinth.

A few words about how to quickly fasten plastic without screws. A large staple gun, often used in construction, is suitable for this job. It is loaded with large brackets that successfully replace self-tapping screws.

Note. For horizontal installation The sheathing slats are placed vertically, and the panels are laid from bottom to top. How to assemble a metal subsystem and cover the room with plastic is described step by step in the video:

How to attach plastic panels with glue

This method is used for cladding absolutely flat surfaces. If during the repair process specialists leveled your walls with plaster or plasterboard sheets, then the panels can be glued to them directly. There is only one drawback - the inability to replace damaged lamellas.

Tile laying mixture or liquid nails are used as an adhesive. The installation technology looks like this:

1. Cover the plastered surface with an antibacterial primer and prepare the glue according to the instructions on the package.
2. Attach the corner and starting element with dowels.
3. Apply the mixture to an area of ​​the wall equal to the size of the two panels, as shown in the photo.
4. Insert the first and subsequent slats in the same way as for frame assembly. The difference is that each element must be pressed onto the surface and then the adhesive composition must be applied.
5. Mount the remaining fittings to hide all the joints.

Note. When installing profiles and panels on a gypsum board base, it is allowed to use short self-tapping screws or zinc-coated nails for fastening.

It is quite difficult to implement this technology for ceiling cladding. You will have to use quick-drying glue, and it may contain a solvent that will destroy the plastic. Therefore, it is better to mount decorative panels on suspension system. What compositions should be used for gluing plastic elements is described in the video:

Conclusion

It is noteworthy that to assemble the cladding from decorative panels It’s not at all difficult when the frame is already mounted. Correct fastening lathing is the most difficult stage of work, taking up most of the time. Gluing plastic also has its own nuances: either the lamella came off, or the adhesive mixture got on the front side and froze, there are many options. So in both cases you need to work carefully and without haste, then the room will turn out beautiful.

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