Seal the door slopes after installing the door. Technical justification for the choice of material for installing slopes on the front door

The lining of door jambs at the entrance to a house or apartment performs 2 functions - decorative and protective. It not only closes the unsightly joint between the frame and the wall, but also prevents the cold from entering through the opening from the outside. There are several ways to finish the slopes of the front door using various building materials available for sale. You can choose the appropriate design and complete this simple work with your own hands, if you familiarize yourself with the common options and finishing technology described below in the text.

How to finish slopes - materials to choose from

To beautifully sheathe the opening after installing the door or during the renovation of the hallway, you can use the following materials:

• traditional plaster, painted in the desired color;
• wood and its derivatives - laminated chipboard, MDF or laminate;
• plasterboard sheets;
• PVC lining and various plastic panels;
• decorative stone and tiles.

It looks more beautiful when the colors of the skirting boards and slopes match the platbands

Advice. Whatever building material you choose, it is important to choose the right color. The inside of the jambs must be decorated in such a way that they match the color of the baseboards and framing as much as possible interior doors, as shown in the photo. It’s easier to finish the slopes from the outside or from the entrance - buy platbands or extensions for appearance door leaf.

If we compare different kinds cladding at a price, then the most affordable option are plastic panels, and the most expensive are products made from natural or artificial stone. In addition to its low cost, PVC lining is distinguished by a wide range of colors and patterns and ease of installation, since it does not require finishing. The weak point of the material is fear mechanical damage And deep scratches, which can only be removed by replacing damaged lamellas.

Plastic very successfully imitates a cut of wood

Plastering is also an inexpensive way to install any slopes, although to implement it you need to have basic skills finishing works. You can plaster and paint a doorway from both the inside and outside. This option is relevant when the door is installed in a narrow niche and there is simply not enough space for installing drywall and any panels.

Plastered and painted opening, decorated with corners

As for gypsum plasterboard sheets, their use allows you to level the curvature of the walls, artificially increase their thickness or make slopes under the right angles. Plasterboard products provide good heat and sound insulation, but require final finishing - putty, wallpapering or painting. In addition, ceramic tiles can be successfully laid on drywall.

Wooden and wood-shaving materials are a compromise solution in terms of price and convenient from the point of view of installation on slopes with your own hands. How cute do they look in entrance opening, shown in the photo.

Cladding with MDF boards

This is the most practical and quick way finish door slopes in an apartment with thin reinforced concrete partitions. In such cases, the width of the jambs does not exceed 10 cm and is ideal for cladding ready-made kits, consisting of strips and MDF platbands. Of course, they should be matched to the color of the baseboards or the pattern of the door trims.

To install additional elements, you will need additional materials:

• wooden beam 4 x 4 or 4 x 2 cm
• polyurethane foam;
• self-tapping screws up to 5 cm long;
• dowels (wooden rods for hidden fastening);
• metal corners with holes, these are sold in hardware stores.

Before making the slopes of the entrance door from MDF, it is necessary to cut off the mounting foam peeking out of the cracks after installation and remove the remaining plaster from the ends of the walls. After this, measure the door frame and get to work, following the instructions:

1. Based on the measurement results, trim the facing strips and twist them with self-tapping screws into a box - a portal. It should fit closely to the door opening and hide the protruding end of the wall.
2. Attach iron corners to the outside of your box - 3 pcs. on the sides and 2 pcs. up and down. Place it in the design position and mark the walls opposite the corners.
3. At the marked points, install bars 8-10 cm long, and then attach the MDF portal to them with self-tapping screws. Blow out the cracks with foam or put insulation inside.
4. Insert the dowels into the prepared holes on the box and trim (if they are not there, drill them) and hammer the latter into the sockets by hand. The finishing of the slopes is ready.

Advice. If repairs have already been completed in the hallway, then it won’t hurt to lubricate the dowels liquid nails or other adhesive mixture. Otherwise, install the platbands without glue so that they can be easily removed.

More visual information about finishing jambs with MDF boards is shown in the following video:

Panel finishing technology

This method is suitable for any panel materials - PVC lining, laminate or chipboard. The main condition: the entrance door opening must be wide enough to install frame elements made of steel profiles or wooden beams. Optimal margin of distance between the inner surface door frame and the end of the wall - 5 cm on each side.

Note. When purchasing this or that finishing material, do not forget to purchase elements for the design of junction units - starting strips, external and inner corners, connectors. You can also be creative: cover the cracks in the corners with curved polyurethane skirting boards.

The procedure for carrying out beautification work entrance slopes looks like that:

1. Measure the doorway in several places and cut blanks from profiles or bars for the frame. Here you need to get your bearings: in one case, external vertical racks with horizontal jumpers, in the other you also need to install internal ones.
2. Mount the frame by attaching the beams to the wall and door frame with dowels and screws. At this stage, level the curvature of the walls using a building level and pads of different thicknesses.
3. Installation of panels begin with fastening starting bar or corner. If the lamellas are planned to be installed horizontally, then it must be installed vertically and vice versa.
4. Install the first panel and attach its ridge to the sheathing with self-tapping screws or a stapler, if we're talking about about plastic cladding. Insert the next element into the previous one and fix it again. In this way, seal the entire opening around the perimeter.
5. Place and secure trims or outer corners.

Advice. When installing the sheathing, take care of the electrical wiring running through the entrance doors. Make special recesses for it or drill holes to hide it behind the front trim. It is also recommended to put insulation in the cavity - mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

It is better not to cover a door threshold that is under constant stress from abrasion with laminate or PVC products. Make it easier and more reliable - install wide board or fill in a small cement screed. How to decorate the doors at the entrance to an apartment with laminate is described in the next video:

In some cases, when the ends of the partitions are quite even, vinyl panels You can put it without a frame - just put it on glue. Before this, it is important to treat the surfaces with a deep penetration primer.

Instructions for covering with plasterboard

If, after installing the doors, the partition made of reinforced concrete or brick has been damaged and requires alignment using plasterboard system, then the technology for cladding the opening is similar to the installation of plastic panels. A frame made of wood or galvanized profiles is mounted on the base, and gypsum plasterboard sheets are screwed to it with self-tapping screws. Next comes the final finishing - puttying and cleaning of seams with further painting.

The fastening of plasterboard slabs without lathing deserves special attention. The method allows you to level out the curvature of the walls due to a thick layer of adhesive building mixture. The cladding technology is as follows:

1. Cut out the cladding elements from the plasterboard according to the side dimensions of the opening and prepare the walls - clean off the old coating and prime.
2. Prepare the adhesive and apply it pointwise to the top drywall piece, as shown in the photo.
3. Place the element against the wall and press it down using a wooden support with a horizontal crossbar. Be sure to check the position of the sheet according to the level and wait until the glue hardens.
4. After the adhesive has hardened, remove the stand and additionally secure the sheet with dowels, drilling it in 3-4 places.
5. Repeat the operation on the side slopes of the front door.

Advice. To make the ceiling element stick to the wall faster, apply a thin layer of polyurethane foam along the edge before installation.

The master will tell you the subtleties of the finishing process using drywall in the video:

Conclusion

If you have read our material and watched training videos, you will certainly be able to choose the appropriate option for finishing door slopes. The proposed methods are quite simple, and therefore accessible to every skilled home owner. If you wish, you can also perform plastering, but in this case the cladding is complicated by wet processes that cause a lot of inconvenience. Correct application plaster mixture is shown in the last video:

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The arrangement of the entrance doorway does not end with the installation of the door. To make it attractive, the slopes must be sealed.

Installation of slopes is necessary to add beauty and strength to the door structure.

As a rule, it is necessary to do this only from the inside, since aesthetics outside is ensured thanks to the installation of platbands. You can make the front door slopes yourself.

Slope design options

The entrance door slopes perform 2 main tasks: securing the door mounting elements and creating the aesthetic appeal of the opening. There are several ways to create slopes:

• cladding with finishing material on the frame;
• fixing finishing materials with a solution;
• filling with mortar followed by plastering the surface.

Laminate can be used as slopes.

Of the finishing materials to create slopes, you can use the most diverse different variants: plasterboard, cellulose, wood, plastic panels, MDF, laminate.

In order to ensure maximum sound insulation, sealing and protection of the front door, it is recommended to completely seal the slopes. The strength of such a slope will be much higher, since there will be no voids in it. If you mount a slope on top of a slope completely filled with mortar Decoration Materials, then you can implement any design solution.

If too large a volume of mortar is required to fill the slopes, then you can reduce its consumption and mount a frame from fastening profiles or wooden blocks, and install finishing material on it. This could be plastic, drywall, etc. Frame slopes, as a rule, are much easier to make smooth, which has a beneficial effect on the external attractiveness of the entire room. It is also much easier to carry various communications into the apartment through such slopes, as well as install a switch in it.

Preparing the work surface

To create a smooth surface, a solution can be applied to the corresponding section of the wall.

Whatever method of making slopes is chosen, the surface is prepared in the same way. Door jambs, crossbar and the door itself must be covered protective film so as not to be damaged by the wet materials used. After this, areas that are too protruding are eliminated, which could stick out from the plaster or interfere with the creation of the frame.

Next, debris and dust are removed from the surface and a primer is applied. The best option is a deep penetration primer. Surface compounds are suitable only if the wall is built of loose material, for example, foam concrete.

On preparatory stage It is recommended to lay a cable to supply electricity to the hallway if the slopes will be completely sealed with mortar. If it is expected frame option, it is better to perform this operation with a ready-made frame.

Plaster entrance door slopes

After applying the primer, beacons are installed to create a smooth surface of the solution. They are attached to the solution. The best option is gypsum mortar, which sets quite quickly. The beacons should be located in the same plane; this can be adjusted using a bubble level. On each side you need 2-3 beacons.

After the gypsum mortar has hardened under the lighthouses, they proceed to applying a cement-sand mortar. The volumes of cement and sand in the solution should be in a ratio of 1:4. You can add a little gypsum and pour in such an amount of water that the solution becomes thick like curd. To mix the solution, you need to take an industrial mixer, which is used as an attachment for a drill. Mixing should be done at medium speed.

The finished solution is applied to the slope with a spatula and trowel. The surface is leveled according to the beacons and left for at least a day to dry. Starting and finishing putty is applied to the frozen solution. After the composition dries, another layer is applied finishing putty onto the abrasive mesh. Completely dried putty can be painted. At this point, sealing the slopes with mortar is completed.

Laying finishing material on the solution

Finishing materials are laid on the leveled and primed surface, and they are additionally fixed with a solution or adhesive.

It is recommended to mark the level of the slope with screws on which the finishing material will rest. The screws are screwed into the wall so that their heads form one plane, taking into account the thickness of the material. The entire space under the screws is filled with mortar, and finishing material is laid on top.

Maximum reliability can be obtained if you apply a cement-sand mortar to the wall so that it does not reach the screw heads slightly. The remaining space needs to be filled with adhesive. It should also be applied to the back surface of the finishing material.

The finishing sheets are carefully applied to the base and pressed all the way into the screw heads. Immediately after installation, it is necessary to check that the sheet is correctly positioned on the level. If it lies unevenly, then its position must be quickly adjusted before the glue hardens. If after drying adhesive composition If there is a gap between the base and the sheet of finishing material, then it is sealed or hidden under the platbands.

Installation of frame slopes

The base of the wall must be treated with a primer even if no mortar is used.

This will prevent small particles of the base from falling off. After preparing the surface, you need to prepare all the necessary frame elements.

To create a frame, wooden beams, slats or metal profiles for installing drywall can be used. The areas of the base to which the frame elements will be attached must be carefully leveled. Thanks to this, the frame will fit tightly to the wall.

The frame elements are attached to the base using dowels or impact screws. Along the entire perimeter of the entrance door opening, 2 parallel slats or metal profiles are mounted. At the corners it is necessary to install jumpers between load-bearing elements. To further strengthen the structure, you can install them in other places. After installing the frame, you can lay the cable to the switch installation point. Next they move on to the installation of finishing material. This process has its own characteristics depending on the finish used.

Self-tapping screws are used to attach drywall. With their help, sheets of material are fixed around the entire perimeter. The gap between the sheet of material and the base is closed with platbands, or it is sealed with mortar. To enhance mechanical properties plasterboard slopes, their edges are reinforced using special perforated corners. In addition, construction tape is used to seal the joint strip between the drywall pieces. Putty is applied to the entire surface. Its layer is leveled with a fine grater. To finish the slopes, you can apply paint to them or cover them with wallpaper.

MDF slopes are easy to install, as they can be secured using simple self-tapping screws.

The most durable, durable and aesthetic material for creating frame slopes is MDF. In addition, installing such slopes with your own hands is the easiest option due to the wide range of ready-made solutions. The panels can be secured with self-tapping screws, small nails or clamps. Joint lines and corners are hidden under trim or corners. Liquid nails are used to secure them.

When using laminate, you can lay mounting elements across or along the ends of the base. In the first case, only the first panel from the bottom and the last from the top can be attached to the frame. They are connected to each other by snapping a lock. Additionally, every second or third lamella is attached. All elements are attached to the frame on the top crossbar. When the lamellas are arranged longitudinally, each one must be fixed in at least 3 places: top, bottom and middle.

Once the job is complete, you can remove the masking tape from the front door and jambs. At the same stage, the light switch is connected.

Now you know how to seal slopes different ways. Which one to choose is up to you to decide. In each individual case, it is necessary to adhere to the basic recommendations from professionals.

It’s up to you to decide what type of door to have in your apartment, metal or wood. And we will show you how to independently, without unnecessary hassle and loss of time, correctly install door slopes on front door with your own hands.

And so, when the doors to the apartment are already installed, it’s time to start installing the slopes. They guarantee the reliability and safety of the room, as well as protection against heat loss. Sound insulation in the apartment and in the corridor depends on them.

The outer part of the doors is often treated with platbands, puttied with mortar or mounted during installation. Inner side requires special attention and is much more difficult to cope with.

The surface of the apartment door looks like a slab of concrete or brick, strewn with various fasteners and bolts. To cultivate this species, it is necessary to install slopes. This type of work can be performed by door manufacturers if it is specified in the contract or has been previously discussed. If there is no such service, you should carry out the installation yourself.

The process of installing front door slopes is not particularly difficult, however, you need to be on alert and take all actions following the instructions. What? How? And why? Let's talk.

The purpose of the slope design is to increase the burglary resistance of the door, adjust the surface, hide the fasteners from view and, most noticeably, improve the appearance.

Let's figure it out existing types formation of slope structures:

• Treatment with mortars and plaster.
• Fastening the finishing material to the mortar.
• Sheathing of the frame, made using finishing materials.

This division arose due to the difference in the method of creating a slope, which is created by various materials for cladding.

The most popular of them:

• MDF (fibreboard),
• laminate,
• plasterboard sheets,
• plastic sheets and cellulose panels,
• wooden coverings.

The main task is to decide on the material and begin to implement the plan.

First way

If you rely on protecting the room and soundproofing it, we seal it with mortar, then this option will be the most acceptable. Upon completion, we will obtain a slope without voids and not susceptible to the formation of deflections.

This option is simple both in implementation and in external characteristics.

Second way

If you add color or textured tiles to such a scheme, it will look like a designer. And you yourself will be this specialist. The second type can be realized simply by using finishing materials that are attached to the solution.

This option helps to achieve absolutely any visual perception. In terms of efficiency, it is similar to the first type, but also more beautiful.

Third way

The third method is carried out by mounting any finishing material.

So, plasterboard, plastic or wood fiber cloth is attached to the constructed frame, made of a metal profile or, which is no less common, wooden blocks.

This method is appropriate if the two previous types are very expensive and require large quantities materials.

In addition, this design looks more presentable and allows you to install lighting directly above the door. And this will illuminate the passageway from the very entrance to the apartment. This type of slope is more convenient for laying an Internet cable or interactive cable television.

Step 1: Preparing the structure

Preparatory work for each type of slope formation is no different. Before starting, the door itself and the entrance opening must be covered with film - this is done in order to protect the canvas from possible deformations.

Afterwards, you should “comb out” all the irregularities, creating a smooth surface so that convex particles are not visible.

After this, the surface is primed (with types of primer that have full penetration) and swept.

If the walls are made of a material characterized as loose, a surface primer should be used.

At the preliminary stage, it is better to immediately take care and lay the cable responsible for light conductivity. If the slope is planned to be made with frame fastening, then the conductive light cable is installed upon completion of the work.

A nuance: first draw an image of the future frame on the floor and focus on these indicators. Such marks will help prevent errors in form.

Step 2: Plastering the prepared slope

So-called beacon profiles are installed on a pre-formed surface, already primed. They allow you to make the surface as smooth as possible when spreading the solution on the surface. These mini-fences are also attached to the mortar.

It is most appropriate to use gypsum here, because its properties (dry quickly) help you move on to the next stage faster.

So, we put a few drops of solution along the edges of the ends and install stabilizer beacons. Use a bubble level to correct their position.

From the moment the solution hardens, fill the slopes with the solution. This substance is of a cement-sand nature. Its mixing proportions are 1:4. The consistency of the mass should resemble thick sour cream.

Then add gypsum in small quantities. The resulting ready-made solution must be applied to the surface and leveled along the beacons.

After 24 hours (it is during this time that the solution will dry), you can proceed to the next stage - applying putty. Using an abrasive mesh, we level the dry putty by then. And the final stage will be painting the slope.

Step 3: Shaping the slope with finishing materials

Already on the leveled and primed surface on which the level has been marked, we set the necessary emphasis for the sheathing material. This is done by screwing screws into the wall until the head matches the height of the sheathing. And only after that we fill all the spaces with mortar around the perimeter.

First layer

The first layer - cement-sand mortar is applied in a thin layer up to half the length of the protruding screws.

Next layer

Next layer - glue solution, suitable for your type of materials, compare the surface of the slope and go to the joints of the first layer of material from the reverse side. After that, we try to install the sheets so that they are flush with the caps of the screws.

You can check your work by applying a level to the slope.

Until the solution has dried, we correct the errors. We fill all the gaps between the sheathing sheets with mortar and only then attach the platbands, if necessary.

Step 4: Mounting the structure on the frame

In case of installing a frame, we pre-treat the wall with a primer. This process will prevent premature shedding and will allow you to complete the job better.

Afterwards, the materials from which the installation process will be carried out are prepared. These are most often bars, metal profiles or ordinary slats.

Depending on the thickness of the material used, we prime the wall to such a level that the frame can be leveled and installed flawlessly in the future. Along the perimeter of the opening, 2 rivers and 2 profiles are attached in parallel at the edges. To strengthen the structure, jumpers are attached, focusing on the floor seams of the sides.

Upon completion of this work, we secure the frame using impact screws and dowels. It is necessary to take into account that we first lay the cable for wiring the light and only then secure the source with casing.

The fastening of the skin differs depending on the material used:

• We fasten the drywall around the perimeter using self-tapping screws. We fill the resulting gap between the wall and the sheets with mortar or install platbands. The edges of the sheets are reinforced with perforated corners. The joints are sealed with serpyanka (construction tape). The resulting surface is puttied and leveled with a fine abrasive float. And as the final stage - painting or wallpapering.
• MDF (medium density fibreboard). This plate is distinguished by the most aesthetic characteristics, wear resistance and strength. Unlike previously described. MDF is secured with small nails, screws or clamps. It is important in this technique to ensure that any of the types used does not interfere with the subsequent installation of the slope structure. When using fiberboards, corners and joints are closed with corners or platbands with liquid nails.
• Laminate strips are laid lengthwise and crosswise, which has absolutely no meaning other than visual perception. However, it is necessary to take into account: in the transverse technique - the first plow is attached to the bottom of the frame along the edges, in the longitudinal technique - in the center and along the edges. In addition, in the first technique, after fastening, all subsequent elements are secured using a lock.
• Installation of plastic structures is identical to laminate mounting. However, due to the properties of plastic, which is lighter, there should be much more grip units. An important condition on which this introduction depends is the fact of the load on the front door - it often opens and closes at different temperature conditions. This means that the material will also be subject to the endurance test. Therefore, it is recommended to fasten the plastic every 10-15 cm.

Upon completion of the main work, it’s time to move on to connecting various lighting fixtures. At this stage, the door and frame can be freed from the film film, because It is done.

As you can see for yourself, installing slopes on the front door is not a difficult job. It’s enough to decide on an option: imagine what you would like to see in the end and get to work, carefully thinking through all the nuances. And our guide article will only benefit you.

No matter how chic the door you install for yourself, without a decent frame it will look, to put it mildly, unpresentable. The finishing of the entrance door slopes is no less important than its installation. But often people have no idea how to decorate the slopes of the front door. Let's talk about how to refine a doorway, discuss the pros and cons of the most popular materials.

Often it is the slopes that are responsible for the presentable appearance of the doorway.

Before you design the doorway, let's figure out what kind of entrance doorways there are.

1. The classic regular rectangle is the standard, most common option. No matter how strange it may sound, deciding how to decorate the doorway of an entrance door with classic shapes is the most difficult thing. You can decorate with anything, but the problem is large selection materials that can be difficult to decide on. The main advantage is that the finish doorways making a rectangular shape with your own hands will not cause much difficulty.
2. The arch looks more impressive, but finishing the door slopes after installing an arched entrance door is technologically more difficult. Plus, not all materials are suitable. If you don’t count the branded linings that come with the door, then all that remains is plaster, drywall and elastic polyurethane slopes.

Arched openings look more impressive.

If the arched design of doorways bothers you, it is not necessary to arrange a real arch: it is much easier to install in the lintel area ( top bar) decorative overlay in the form of an arch. This can be done both from the inside and outside, but the door itself and the slopes will be rectangular.

A decorative overlay will help to decorate the doors in the form of an arch.

How and with what you can decorate the slopes of the main door of your home

If you are faced with the task of how to finish the slopes of the front door, with step by step instructions you can see in and on video in this article, and we will try to analyze to the smallest detail all the pros and cons, which are often forgotten to be mentioned in advertising brochures.

Option number 1. Good old plaster

Finishing doorways with cement plaster is deservedly considered the patriarch of the trend. This decoration of door slopes appeared along with the doors themselves.

A well-plastered and finished slope will last for decades; it is not afraid of temperature changes, humidity, or cold. The plaster will fill all voids and uneven areas. To ruin such a slope, you need to hit it with a hammer. If you are not going to influence your doors so radically, then you can rest assured about the rest. To refresh the surroundings, the plastered slope can be repainted, wallpapered, or covered with the currently fashionable reflective film with a 3D effect: a smooth and durable surface will withstand anything.

But plaster also has back side. Of all the finishing methods, plastering slopes is the most labor-intensive and dirty process.

Plastering the slopes of entrance doors is not an easy task.

Of course, if you install beacons correctly, buy good plaster mixtures And quality tool, then things will go much faster. Although believe me, if you have never plastered doorways with your own hands, this kind of design is not for you. In addition, plaster is, in fact, stone, only artificial, and you should not expect any serious insulation from such a finish.

There is one more professional nuance. Even on a well-leveled slope, you can only glue wallpaper, and then after two layers of primer. For high-quality painting, plaster alone is not enough: the surface will still have to be additionally puttyed and sanded, and puttying and sanding will take no less time, effort and money than plaster.

Plastered doorways look simple but elegant.

By the way, if you plan to finish the slope with natural or artificial stone, then plaster will be the best and most reliable base; you do not need to putty it.

Option No. 2. Drywall slopes

The next most reliable option is finishing the doorway of the front door with sheets of plasterboard. This type of cladding is also called dry plaster.

Drywall attracts with its speed and relative ease of installation, plus, if necessary, door jambs can be closed almost completely. If we roughly break down all the work, then briefly finishing the front door opening with sheets moisture-resistant plasterboard consists of 5 stages:

1. According to the rules, before finishing the front door opening, the surface must be cleared of debris and covered with soil. But if the foundation is strong, for example, Brick wall, then just wipe off the dust and walk with the solution copper sulfate so that fungus does not start.
2. Next we install the frame from metal profiles. There are wall and ceiling profiles, but for slopes it is better to take ceiling ones (UD/CD). If a large space is covered, then a solid frame is mounted, and when there is little space, only the outer vertical guides are installed.

1. It is better to take wall gypsum board (12.5 mm), and the sheets must be moisture resistant. If an arch is formed, then there is arched plasterboard(7.5 mm). The sheets are attached to the frame with self-tapping screws and glued to the wall tile adhesive or similar building mixture.
2. When the structure is assembled, it needs to be puttied. Remember - nothing is glued, painted or attached to “bare” sheets.
3. The last stage is decorating the doorway. It all depends on taste, dexterity and financial capabilities. The easiest way is to cover the slopes with wallpaper. They do not require extensive sanding. Next comes painting, but before that you will have to sand the slope well. Tiles or stone are more expensive, but they are installed quickly and easily.

At the hollow plasterboard slope there is another undeniable advantage: it can be filled with insulation, thereby increasing heat and sound insulation. In this case, it is better to use foam plastic as insulation. There is an option to blow foam inside, but you need to act carefully: it can squeeze out the sheet when it expands. It is advisable not to use mineral wool or any other type of wool to insulate the passages of entrance doors: condensation will cause it to become damp and useless.

Many people blame drywall for allegedly breaking easily, but believe me, if you install a good frame with a gap between the profiles of no more than 200 mm, and when installing it with glue, you don’t have to worry about the strength of the slope.

Option number 3. MDF

Finishing entrance jambs MDF doors slabs are currently considered perhaps the most common. It's quite tough and at the same time beautiful material, such panels behave well under temperature changes and in conditions of high humidity.

When choosing MDF panels there is small nuance: to decorate the inside of the front door, you can take any sheets, but for the external slopes, especially if the doors go directly to the street, you should buy only moisture-resistant ones (the back of them has a greenish tint), otherwise in a year all the beauty will bubble up.

IN in this case We are only interested in laminated panels; there is no point in taking regular ones and then painting them separately. The line also includes panels covered with veneer natural wood. The price for them is about half as high as for laminated ones, but such slopes are practically indistinguishable from expensive wood.

A backlit slope made of veneered MDF is not only beautiful, but also convenient.

Concerning self-installation, then buying and installing extensions, platbands, mounting angles and other things is not a problem. Essentially, you are dealing with a constructor. First, a frame of wooden blocks is built around the perimeter of the opening, and panels are already attached to it.

A relatively expensive tool will require a miter saw or at least a jigsaw, as well as a drill and a screwdriver. A hammer, tape measure, etc. are usually in the arsenal of any home craftsman.

Minus MDF slopes Only the price of the material itself is considered. The only thing more expensive than such cladding is natural wood of elite species; by the way, it is installed in the same way, but it is better not to undertake it yourself: the risk of spoiling it is too great.

Setting up a door frame made of MDF is not as difficult as it seems.

Option No. 4. Lining

The price of a good wooden lining is approximately equal to the cost of MDF, but in this case you get slopes made of natural wood. This design of the doorway looks quite solid, but there are nuances.

Any lining is mounted on a wooden sheathing, which means you must have enough space for such sheathing. Accordingly, it is problematic to make small slopes from lining.

Natural wood is a good material, but rather capricious. In extreme conditions of entrance doors, wood must be covered with antiseptics, fire retardants and other protective compounds.

Previously, all linings were varnished, but now design experts do not recommend varnish. The fact is that most people associate varnished lining with balconies and garages, and the front door is still the face of the home. It is best to buy an oil-wax impregnation and apply it. The result is pleasing: fast, beautiful and inexpensive.

Option No. 5. PVC

Slopes made from finishing PVC panels can be installed within 1 day, plus the price of this material is affordable for almost everyone, but decorating a doorway with plastic has a number of negative aspects.

Plastic PVC slopes are installed easily and quickly.

You can break through a hollow thin panel by simply leaning on it. As practice has shown, even the highest quality plastic panels on good sheathing in the area of ​​entrance doors last no more than two to three years.

Under the plastic you need a wooden or metal sheathing. Theoretically, such a panel can be glued to a plastered slope with liquid nails, but if you have a good plastered slope, then why do you need plastic?

In addition, according to fire regulations, it is extremely undesirable to install plastic in the entrance area. In the event of a fire, it will actively melt and emit choking, acrid smoke, thereby blocking the exit.

Although, on the other hand, plastic is ideal as a temporary solution to the problem. And when you have enough funds, you can quickly dismantle it and install solid slopes made of high-quality MDF on the same sheathing.

PVC panels have quite a wide range of decor.

Option No. 6. Decorative polyurethane linings

If you dream of seeing your doors decorated with luxurious stucco, we recommend paying attention to decorative polyurethane overlays. Visually, such a finish cannot be distinguished from good stucco, but performance such slopes are an order of magnitude higher. The only problem is that the price for such jewelry is quite serious, plus you can’t glue an overlay to a crooked base. In other words, you will first need to level the slope with plaster or drywall, and then glue the polyurethane beauty onto it.

If the slopes are decorated with luxurious stucco, this indicates good taste and owner status.

A few words about the decorative finishing of door slopes

Finish decorative finishing It is applied only to a solid, prepared base; accordingly, we can only choose between plaster and drywall.

1. Most often, people choose simple coloring. The quality of modern paints is such that they can retain their original appearance for quite a long time and in any weather conditions, plus, if you get really tired of the color, you can always repaint it.
2. Next in the ranking of finishing door slopes is decorative tiles. Tile is not suitable for entrance doors, so it is better to give preference to clinker tiles. If funds allow, then you can line the slopes with artificial stone; by and large, these are the same tiles, only made from stone dust and polymers.
3. Natural stone tops the top three. The pleasure is far from cheap, and besides, it’s better not to try it with your own hands and without preparation. A natural stone– heavy and difficult to process material.

Qualitative fake diamond visually no different from natural.

Conclusion

In conclusion, we would like to note that it is better for DIYers to stick to materials designed for sheathing. These are MDF, wood and PVC. If you are confident in yourself, then you can take a swing at drywall. But we recommend leaving plastering of slopes to professionals.

MDF door slopes are one of the most affordable for DIY installation.