Warm floors water installation diagrams in the apartment. Warm floors in an apartment: how to choose: convenient and comfortable heating Warm water floors from hot water

Installing a heated water floor in a bathroom with your own hands in an apartment in a multi-storey building can solve many problems. According to the standard design, the bathroom is heated exclusively by a heated towel rail, which is clearly not enough for comfortable water procedures.

Cold floors, insufficient heating of the room - all this is a consequence of an insufficient and ill-conceived heating system. It is not surprising that many owners are seriously thinking about improving their bathroom heating system.

Is it possible to have water floors in the bathroom?

Installing a water floor in a bathroom is a personal matter only in the case of a private home. According to the Housing Code, any independent change in the design of the heating system is illegal.

Complaints from neighbors about a decrease in heating intensity are grounds for initiating a lawsuit, which will result in an administrative penalty and an order to eliminate the changes within a short time.

Based on this, the legality of installing water-heated floors in an apartment building is best case scenario dubious. The Housing Code allows you to change the design and layout of the heating system, but only after obtaining the necessary permits and coordination with the relevant authorities. In any case, registration should begin with a visit to the housing and communal services department.

Connecting a warm heated floor in a bathroom from a heated towel rail is one of the most commonly used solutions for heating a bathroom in a high-rise building. At the same time, it is extremely important to ensure that the heating temperature of your neighbors does not drop. A two-way valve can be used for this.

How to install heated floors in the bathroom

Making a water heated floor in a bathroom yourself is not that difficult, especially after obtaining all the necessary permits to change the heating system. It is enough to follow the basic installation steps.

In the shower and bathroom in an apartment building, in most cases, a water circuit without a collector is installed. The short distance of the heated area allows you to power the circuit from the heated towel rail and obtain a sufficient amount of thermal energy.

How to fill a bathroom floor

Independent installation of heated floors is much easier to carry out when using special leveling and leveling mixtures. At the same time, in order to make water heated floors in the bathroom and shower, you need to take care of the quality of the screed, which must meet the requirements:

1. Withstand temperature changes– it is almost impossible to make a cement composition yourself that will not crack after several years of use, so it is best to opt for ready-made mixtures.
2. Maintain strength– heated floors are subject to constant loads from changes in temperature and humidity. For decreasing negative impact you will need to lay a layer of reinforcing mesh. The fittings are especially necessary if you plan to install a drain in the shower room.

The composition of the floor “pie” consists of: waterproofing, reinforcing mesh, foil insulation and thermal insulation. A high-quality screed allows you to connect all four types of layers and create an almost monolith.

How to connect a water floor in the bathroom

There are several solutions for how to create and power a water floor in a shower or bathtub. Each has its own advantages and disadvantages.

• From the heated towel rail– the temperature of the coolant will remain unchanged. Since in most multi-storey buildings heated towel rails are connected from the hot water return, the heating intensity largely depends on how much the coolant has time to cool.
• From the boiler - the solution has certain advantages, consisting in the possibility of adjusting the water heating of the bathroom floor. You will need to install a thermostat.
• From the central heating system– a bathtub with a warm water floor can be connected to the apartment’s heating system. Before carrying out work, you will need to obtain permits and make a technical design.

Common mistakes during installation and connection

To install heated floors in the bathroom, everything must be done in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. Judging by consumer reviews and reports from teams who have to remodel and repair heating systems, the main violations during installation are:

1. Lack of waterproofing of the bathroom with water heated floors. During installation work, the prevention of leaks is neglected. Waterproofing is a layer that prevents moisture from reaching neighbors in the event of a water circuit break. It is also necessary to waterproof the floor before installing the underfloor water heating system of the bathroom in a heated polypropylene floor.
2. Lack of work plan and installation scheme. Preliminary calculations help to carry out installation quickly and efficiently, and avoid waste of material.
3. Carrying out installation work without obtaining permission. After installation, obtaining approval is much more problematic.
4. Filling the screed with regular cement mortar. The technology for installing water heated floors in the bathroom of a private house or apartment requires the use of adhesive compositions with the addition of plasticizers and additives. Without additives, cement eventually begins to crumble, crack and become unusable.

Heated floors in the bathroom - electric or water

Only one question remains unresolved: which heated floor for the bath is better, electric or water. Each option has its own advantages.

Thus, it is best to install an electric floor in an apartment building. The solution does not require obtaining permits for installation. Installation requires less material costs and is faster.

Water floors are completely safe. Fire and short circuit are excluded. In an apartment building, their use does not carry additional material load.

Do you want to install underfloor heating from central heating? It's real! Let's look at all the points regarding the installation of such floors in apartments with central heating. In principle, it is allowed to use water floor heating where the heating circuit is specially wired. Where there is one main coolant throughout the entire apartment, distributed throughout all rooms and a large return main pipeline. Accordingly, if you have heat meters installed, then you can safely count on installing warm water floors in your apartment.

Warm water floor scheme

The only thing to remember is that a sufficient amount of heat is allocated to the entire apartment. Otherwise, a situation may arise when energy consumption will be more than expected, which can significantly upset the balance of heat energy exchange between neighboring apartments. But such destabilization of the balance can be eliminated by regulators, which, in turn, forces the underfloor heating system from central heating to consume a dosed volume of water.

When is it prohibited to install heated floors in an apartment?

It is forbidden to install heated floor heating if you thereby destabilize the warm and hydraulic balance between neighboring apartments along a common heating riser. In other words, this is when each room has a separate heating riser.

If so, it is strictly forbidden to install heated water floors, as this can lead to the fact that your water heated floor connected to this riser is capable of taking away the temperature by so much that it will significantly reduce the heat that passes to other apartments using this riser. But, practically and theoretically, water heated floors can be installed anywhere, anywhere, the main thing is that the balance of water flow is not disturbed, and the conditions for dosing heat consumption are met.

Schemes for installing heated floors where its use is prohibited

Let's take a little look at the schemes that make it possible to install heated floors directly in the apartment.

Cheap and cheerful

Here we will consider the option of installing heated floors, where it is prohibited to install water heated floors. To use this scheme, it is necessary to use a very weak pump (Flow rate - 5-10 l/min, pipeline - 16mm, pipeline length - no more than 70 meters). This scheme has one drawback - such floors are practically not adjustable. Also, if there are small heat losses from the floor, you can end up with very cold radiators.

Scheme with balancing adjustment

The installation diagram for a heated water floor shows a balancing valve, which reduces the flow rate in the heated water floor, which means you can reduce the temperature of these floors. In order to reduce the temperature of the water heated floor, you need to open the balancing valve to the appropriate pass.

Reducing the influence of heat consumption

“K2” - three-way valve with a temperature-sensitive mechanism. It gives a constantly unchanged temperature at point “3”. In other words, if your water heating the floor consumes a large amount of energy, this creates a high probability of causing almost cold water to flow into the riser. Which, in turn, can cool the radiators along the riser in neighboring apartments.

Scheme of a warm water floor with a three-way valve

Such a three-way valve can be purchased at specialized plumbing supply stores. It is called: “Mechanical 3-way mixing valve for water supply with thermostat.” That is, we need the presented valve in automatic mode in order to regulate the temperature regime of the hot water flow in the warm water floor circuit of the apartment.

Three-way valve

In the presented diagram, you need to adjust the tap so that at point “3” there is a warm, very high temperature. But if the warm floor from central heating heats very little, you can lower the temperature of the valve, thereby increasing heat loss in the warm floor. Here, to regulate the floor temperature, you can use balancing valves “K1” and “K2”. If it suddenly turns out that the radiator begins to cool below the set temperature, then the temperature will not penetrate your heated floor. The circulation in the warm floor will simply stop.

Scheme for discerning consumers

K1" - bypass balancing valve. “K2” and “K3” are three-way valves connected differently. The “KZ” valve is used to stabilize the temperature of underfloor heating from central heating using the return temperature method from the circuit. It is this scheme that allows you to make the so-called “climate control”. If your room gets hot, it will reduce the flow of hot water in the floor heating circuit, accordingly reducing the release of heat energy into the room. The warmer the room, the faster the hot water passes through the circuit and cools less and reaches the temperature-sensitive element - the three-way valve, which, in turn, does not allow liquid to flow at a very significant pace.

The structure of the bypass balancing unit

The “K1” valve is necessary to operate in a closed circuit of the warm water floor of your apartment. Such a valve may reduce or completely close the flow of the circuit in such a way that it can cause very serious favorable work for the pump used. Therefore, this valve is necessary in order to balance the flow for the pump. It is worth remembering that the pump is operated on a closed circuit, which can cause it to overheat, and therefore increase energy consumption, and the “K1” valve is essentially a regulator of the hot water pressure of the circuit. The higher the pressure of hot water, the faster it will flow along the entire contour of the heated floors.

Installation diagrams for heated floors, where their use is permitted

Now let's consider the option that must be used in apartments where it is allowed to use such heating, the water-heated floor of which will become the main source of heat.

A balancing valve or flow regulator must be installed at the inlet of the mixing unit. Of course, the second option is better. Such a valve will regulate the required energy consumption, and therefore the temperature in the room. You can also install an autovalve that serves to stabilize the operating pressure difference, which is also capable of stabilizing the flow rate. Such heating with water heated floors can provide heat to the entire apartment, provided that it is properly installed and subsequently used.

The hot water consumption for water heating, the heated floor of which is the main source of energy, should be so minimal as not to increase the normalized water consumption that was used before installing the heated floor system.

If you increase this expense, the relevant services will immediately know about it. It is worth using the special schemes described above and not increasing the coolant flow, as this can spoil the normal flow of hot water in your neighbors’ radiators.

Warm floor from central heating, water heating of the house

Warm floor from central heating. Various schemes connecting the heated floor to the central heating system. Description of the main components.

Warm floor from hot water in the apartment

For a bathroom, liquid heated flooring is the most best option. Conduct heated floor from hot water supply in the bathroom there are several ways: connect to the heating riser or to the heated towel rail if, of course, it operates from the heating system. The same principle is relevant for other types of premises.

Water floor: pros and cons

The most basic drawback that prompts us to abandon liquid heating is that a permit will be required for a water heated floor in an apartment, and it is also a labor-intensive process that requires duplication and large consumption of material (but then these costs are justified). However, if the work is carried out by a team of experienced craftsmen, then they resolve all these issues independently, including obtaining permission. And entrusting communications to private dubious individuals is dangerous in every sense.

On the negative side, there is also a high probability of pipe leakage. The Colmart online store offers only high-quality products made in Italy, Austria, Germany, which eliminate this kind of problem. All products come with a manufacturer's warranty.

Water heated floor advantages

As for the advantages, they significantly exceed their disadvantages. Liquid principle heating is most beneficial in comparison with other types, even if heated floors are installed in an apartment with individual heating.

Warm floor from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings

Warm floors from hot water in the apartment - comfort, warmth, savings. Buy components for heated floors in the online store Ukraine, Kyiv, Kharkov – colmart.com.ua

How to make a water-heated floor yourself without any problems

Warm floors are perfect option for heating the room, as they evenly distribute heat throughout the room. They can be used as the main source of heat in the house, or as an additional one.

There are two types of heated floors: water and electric. The former are heated by the circulation of hot water, the latter work as heating electrical appliances. In this article we will look at how to make a water heated floor.

In what rooms can it be installed?

Water heated floor

Installation of heated floors can be done in any room, but it is necessary to take into account that any heated floor system dries out the air, so residents will not feel comfortable in rooms with poor ventilation.

This problem can be easily solved with the help of an air humidifier, but it is still not recommended to install them in bedrooms, because fresh and cool air is necessary for normal sleep. Warm floors are perfect for bathrooms and kitchens, as there is enough ventilation and humidity.

Preparing the premises

In the room where installation is planned, the old floor covering is removed.

It should be remembered that when all the work is completed, the floor level will rise by 5-7 centimeters, so the door frames will also need to be raised. The bathroom is sorted out old screed, under which, most likely, there will be filler (expanded clay, for example).

When making a new fill, experts advise making it a couple of centimeters lower than the general floor level. To do this, you can make a smooth transition or step.

This is done for the purpose that if the bathtub is flooded, water will not flow into other rooms in the apartment. If there is waterproofing in the bathroom, then you don’t have to remove it, but it’s better to put it in bags during the work.

Preparing risers for floor installation

If you plan to connect a heated floor to central heating, then it is not at all necessary to change the entire riser, since they rarely break. However, it is better to replace the hot water riser with polypropylene pipes, because they are not subject to corrosion.

It is necessary to find out from the plumbers who service your home what type of riser is spilling. If the spill is from the top, then tap 2 will be the warm water inlet, and tap 3 will be the outlet. For lower spills, placement is done in reverse.

Laying waterproofing

Water flows through the pipes in the underfloor heating system, so, in theory, a leak may occur. Naturally, all manufacturers claim that their products are of high quality and durable, but no one is immune from possible factory defects.

In this regard, waterproofing is done.

There are various types of waterproofing on the market, but it is best to use linocorm insulation or similar ones due to its simplicity.

Connecting a heated floor

The insulation is overlapped by 10 centimeters, and the seams are soldered blowtorch or a hair dryer. It should extend onto the walls above the level of the heated floor. It is recommended to prime the bottom of the wall for better soldering.

Pouring rough screed

If the flooring in the apartment lies directly on the floor slabs, or the future floor will not be higher than 10 centimeters above the level of the slabs, then you will need to make a rough screed.

Using a level, markings are made around the perimeter of the room. After this, the highest point of the slabs is determined and the level of the rough screed is marked from it.

The level should be 7 centimeters lower than the finished floor. This level depends on the diameter of the pipes. So, if the diameter is 16 millimeters, then the screed is made 5 centimeters, the diameter is 25 millimeters - the screed is at least 7 centimeters.

Basically, the rough screed is made from a mixture of expanded clay and cement-based mortar. If the room is not large, then it is not necessary to install beacons, and they are guided by marks on the walls. The mixture is leveled using a long rule. For large areas of the premises, beacons will still have to be installed.

Note! To level the mixture, you can use any object of sufficient length.

Experience shows that mixing mortar and expanded clay is quite difficult. Expanded clay dust, when mixed with the solution, makes it less durable, and for a normal screed you will need a large amount of such a solution.

In this regard, it is better to do the rough screed in a different way.

Heaps of mortar are poured and paint beacons are placed on them. If the distance from the base slabs to the floor is large, then the piles can be poured onto previously laid bricks. Further, below the level of the beacons, expanded clay is poured and leveled. After this, the welded mesh is laid down and the screed is poured.

Pipe laying

Filling contours with concrete

Before laying the pipes, a flooring is made of foil insulation, which acts as a heat shield. The joints of the sheets are glued together with aluminum tape. The edges of the insulation should extend 4 centimeters onto the walls.

Pipe bending is carried out by a spring into which the pipes are inserted. However, this should be done carefully, since bending the pipes is strictly prohibited. The pipes are attached to the screed using special plastic fasteners.

Fittings are put on the pipe outlets, and the connection is lubricated with a sealant that can withstand temperatures up to 95 degrees Celsius. Further special collapsible connections fittings are attached to risers. All threaded connections are assembled using flax, as this is the most durable material.

Test run of the system

After the sealant has dried, test run the heated floor. To remove air from the system, use the Mayevsky valve. If the system is powered from a riser, then use a hot water tap.

This is done in the following sequence: taps 1 and 2 are opened, and tap 3 is closed. Next, turn off the hot water tap and give it time to drain. After this, the first tap is closed and the third is opened.

Thus, the system is kept under pressure for several days to check that all connections are tight and that there are no leaks anywhere. After the test run, the entire system is turned off, the taps are turned in the reverse order, and time is given for it to cool down.

Pouring finishing screed

The finishing screed is poured in the same way as the rough screed: a masonry mesh is laid down, beacons are placed, and the pouring is done. If a worm screed was made, then there is no need to lay a masonry mesh. When preparing the screed, make sure that its surface is smooth.

After the screed has dried, use a float to remove any unevenness on the surface. Next, let the screed dry completely.

Note! A well-dried screed becomes light gray in color.

Conclusion

In order not to depend on utilities connect the system to the hot water supply riser. A ball valve is used to prevent mixing of process and drinking water.

How to make a water heated floor: connection diagram

How to make a water-heated floor yourself? What you should pay attention to? Tips, recommendations, technologies

Which heated floors are better, water or electric - 2 factors of choice.

So what do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of heated floors. They can be of two types:

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional view heating is most often used:

• in a country cottage or dacha

• in an apartment in a multi-storey building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment, nuances and restrictions already appear.

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two reasons:

Accordingly, your heated floors will remain idle for most of the year.

First of all, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, it is possible to connect, but it is necessary to ensure a sufficiently low temperature for heated floors. A direct connection will be accompanied by temperatures of 70 degrees or higher, and this will simply overheat the floor covering.

You will not be able to legally register your connection in any authority. And if such a fact is revealed during an inspection, you can easily run into a fine. Plus they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

• heating systems are uncomfortable

• from DHW it is impossible

You can, of course, come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water heated floor will be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the ground floor.

The only option left is with electric heated floors.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. You can choose either electric or water heating. But what is better to choose?

Many people in this situation still make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which electric heated floors supposedly have.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. And all heating cables are shielded.

If we consider how many WiFi, GSM and other networks there are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, this does not convince the majority that they are right.

In their opinion, this may also be suitable for the bathroom, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be attributed to electric heated floors.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can do such repairs yourself, at home.

If the heating cable of an electric mat is damaged, you will have to either rip off the entire tile and replace it entirely, or call specialists with equipment to burn through and find the short circuit with a thermal imager, followed by installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline many people to choose water heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option remains only as an additional heat source.

But here are the factors that can scare away water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a manifold and much more, which electric heating can easily do without.

• constant audit work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many installers with water-based floors earn many times more, and not only during their installation, but also during further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their clients about the dangers of electricity and heated floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

• budget for installation and necessary subsequent maintenance

If there are no problems with this, then go to the store for water floors.

• lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this sounds like you, then electric heated floors are exactly what you need.

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should you pay attention to when choosing infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them with a very small gap, current carbon tracks are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at your contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire area.

The film acts as a separator between the base of the heated floor and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It will not fit under tiles. But it fits perfectly:

• under the carpet

• linoleum

If you lay a heating cable under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch) you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And therefore you need to buy a special product labeled “for heated floors.”

This is wrong. The sun heats up laminate flooring much more when it shines directly through a window. And nothing harmful is released.

There are also concerns about dry air and dust, which warm floors inevitably raise. Here everything depends not on the heating operating mode, the presence or complete absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Provide a regular supply fresh air, and there will be no problems. And if you block all the windows, then even with the central heating radiators you will be suffocated.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with film heated floors:

Where is the best place to use a heating cable? Where you have a minimal screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after completion of the work by the builders, there can be no talk of any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have left is 5-6cm.

If it’s even less, then the choice is clear – only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the layer of tile adhesive.

The disadvantage of an electric heated floor is that in addition to your room, you will also warm the ceiling from below. You will also heat your neighbors at your own expense.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Comparison table for the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

Compare current prices for heated floors with heating cables or mats and infrared film.

A pie with water floors should ideally look like this:

• pipes with coolant are mounted on this surface

• then the cake comes with an adhesive layer and a tile or other covering

The approximate thickness of the entire slab is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go downstairs.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg/m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very durable and you can’t just crush them.

You can safely walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied with reverse side, i.e. It is not possible to damage or corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper that is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a heated floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either break the walls themselves, or break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be higher than the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20 m2), it must be separated with compensation tape.

Since all the expansion during heating of such a concrete layer, flanging alone cannot compensate.

4 The warm water floor coil must be made from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should end up in your screed.

6 If the customer and contractor are poorly versed in preparing solutions, then the recommended height of a full screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And lastly, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If your energy source is electricity, at night, at a cheaper tariff, you can “overclock” the heated floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This heating mode costs approximately 3 times less than usual.

7 Don’t skimp and add a special plasticizer for heated floors to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that can easily withstand temperature deformations.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to fill in only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But this should be avoided if possible.

9 There is no need to cut any holes in the substrate down to the concrete base, supposedly for high-quality adhesion.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The heated floor slab, figuratively speaking, should “float” without connection with the base and the walls.

10 You cannot fill the solution with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.

Water or electric heated floor - 10 mistakes and installation rules

Rules for installing water and electric heated floors. Heating cable and film - comparison of efficiency. Is electromagnetic radiation from heated floors safe? The screed thickness is 85mm, why?

Warm floors water installation diagrams in the apartment

The popularity of heating systems based on the modern principle of floor surface heating is constantly growing. In many countries, such technology has already become prevalent, and “warm floors”, having replaced the usual radiator circuits, are included in projects multi-storey buildings and are installed immediately as the building is being erected. This is explained by the advantages of such heating in terms of creating the most comfortable conditions for people to live or work - uniform heating occurs from bottom to top with optimal temperature distribution and without creating pronounced horizontal movements of air masses.

Warm water floors wiring diagrams in the apartment

Such obvious advantages of such a heating system make many owners of houses and city apartments think - is it worth switching to it? By revising possible options Very often, electric floor heating is treated with a certain prejudice, which is explained by the high cost of electricity, and a water “heated floor” will clearly benefit in terms of operating efficiency. This is complemented by the fact that the apartment already has water heating pipes, and the temptation is very great to simply connect floor heating circuits to them. This probably explains the fact that in the top of online search queries on heating topics there is always something like “warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment.”

However, you need to immediately warn the apartment owner who wants to switch to water heated floors - not everything is so simple. The system itself is quite complex and requires large-scale work. And in the context of multi-storey buildings, the number of obstacles to the successful implementation of such a project increases many times over. Moreover, these problems are very diverse - both technological and administrative in nature.

However, subject to certain conditions, such an opportunity exists. But first, you should probably get acquainted with the difficulties that you will inevitably have to overcome. It is possible that, having seen the prospect and assessed the scale of the measures that will need to be done, some apartment owners will decide to opt for an electric “heated floor” system that is easier to install and safe to operate.

Do I need to coordinate the project with utility companies?

If the owner of the apartment intends to connect his water-heated floor system to the existing central heating system, he will almost certainly encounter a number of administrative problems.

Heating a multi-storey building is a complex, branched system that was calculated in advance by specialists, and its capabilities are not unlimited. When designing it, we took into account the power of the boiler room or local heating station, the diameters and length of the pipelines, the degree of their insulation, the required pressure and temperature of the coolant, the diagram of apartment wiring and connection of radiators - and many other criteria. Independently making any changes to the operation of this system can lead to an imbalance and a decrease in overall efficiency.

It is clear that design is always carried out with the necessary technological reserve, and the connection of one or two underfloor heating circuits, of course, is unlikely to be noticeable on the scale of the system. But, firstly, there are most likely many who regret installing this type of heating. And secondly, what is hardly noticeable in the volume of the entire local system may well be felt on the scale of an entrance or a specific riser. Connecting additional circuits, which usually have a very considerable length, can affect the temperature of the coolant in the radiators of neighbors. Surely, this will end with complaints about the work of the thermal power industry, and those, in search of the reason, will definitely find it, and an unauthorized connection will lead to serious administrative measures.

There is only one way out - go through the approval procedure with management company or with heat suppliers. But whether they will give such permission is a big question.

In this case, the owners of apartments located at the very end of the heating riser are in an advantageous position. For example, with a bottom supply, this will become the top floor, and if the coolant is supplied from above in the riser (this happens more often), then residents of apartments on the first floor will most likely be able to obtain permission. The extraction of thermal energy for floor heating will no longer affect the radiators of the neighbors on the riser.

But this, again, does not mean at all that other technical conditions will not be put forward by utility companies. Thus, they will almost certainly receive a requirement for the mandatory installation of an individual heat meter.

When agreeing on the connection, you will need to install individual device metering of consumed thermal energy

There may be a proposal from utility companies to organize their heating system on a semi-autonomous basis. In this option, coolant from the central system will not be used for circulation through the “warm floor” pipes - the circuit will be completely closed. And the transfer of thermal energy obtained from the boiler room. It occurs through a special device - a heat exchanger installed on the supply pipe.

Heat can also be removed through a heat exchanger

Of course, in this case it will be necessary to install additional equipment to organize coolant circulation and prevent emergency situations. In addition, such a scheme also does not relieve owners from the need to purchase and install a meter for metering consumed thermal energy.

Many problems can be avoided if you decide to completely transfer your apartment to heating system. This trend is gaining popularity - owners are refusing heating and hot water supply services and installing their own electric or gas boiler.

More and more owners of city apartments are trying to switch to complete autonomy in matters of heating and hot water supply

Here, too, coordination with housing maintenance companies is required, but it is of a slightly different kind. But on the other hand, the owner of an autonomous system gets freedom in choosing the number and type of radiators, “warm floor” circuits, convectors, etc. In this option, heat meters will not be required - only energy costs - gas or electricity - will be paid.

It cannot be said that this will be the end of the problems of apartment owners - they will face many difficulties of a technological nature. But all of them can be solved in one way or another.

The key issue is laying “warm floor” pipes in a city apartment

If the administrative stage has been successfully completed, permission to connect has been received, or complete autonomy of the heating and hot water supply system has been ensured, then it is time to move on to a step-by-step solution to the problems of laying the “warm floor” circuits. Here it is necessary to determine the possible height of the floor level, the method of closing the contours, in such a way as not to exceed the permissible load on the interfloor floors. A very important point is the high-quality thermal insulation of the structure being created, the reliability and durability of the pipes and their connections. And, of course, at this stage you have to figure out the optimal laying pattern, the length of the contours, and the pitch of their laying.

Possible obstacles - rising floor level and weighting of the structure

The first thing you need to do is assess how much the floor level in the apartment will rise after installing a “warm floor”, and whether this can be allowed under specific conditions. And an increase in thickness is inevitable, and it consists of three factors.

Approximate diagram of a water-heated floor under a screed

• Nobody wants to pay money for anything, and therefore it is necessary to provide a thermal insulation barrier (item 1), which will prevent heat from being wasted almost in vain on heating the reinforced concrete interfloor slabs.

If the premises are located above another heated apartment, then a layer of thermal insulation of 25 ÷ 30 mm of polystyrene foam is usually sufficient. Under the most favorable circumstances, sometimes they even limit themselves to roll foil insulation (made of polyethylene foam) about 5 mm thick. But if located below cold basement or an uninsulated base, you will have to use a layer of thermal insulation of 50 mm, or even more.

• The efficiency of the “warm floor” is ensured by pouring a screed with a thickness of at least 50 mm (item 2). The concrete layer not only covers the circuit pipes (item 3), but also becomes an accumulating and evenly distributing heat element of the entire system.

But not only will the screed raise the floor level by another 50 mm. The load on the floor slab increases significantly, and it is necessary to consult whether this is permissible in a house of a particular series.

• And finally, one cannot discount the thickness of the final floor covering itself (item 4). It, of course, is not comparable to the thickness of the screed, but it can also add 10 ÷ 15 millimeters, or even more, especially if thick ceramic tiles are laid on a layer of glue.

Some problems can be avoided by using the method of laying a “warm floor” without a concrete screed. In this case, to increase heat transfer, special metal plates with channels for laying pipes are used.

Heat transfer plate with channel for pipe laying

Such plates can be placed in special modules (wooden or wood composite), in insulating mats of a special design, or a wooden floor structure can be made on joists, as shown in the figure:

Water-heated floor on a wooden base without screed

Thermal insulation material (item 2) is laid between the joists installed on the base floor base and aligned horizontally (item 1). Boards are stuffed on top (item 3) with a step ensuring the laying of heat exchangers metal plates(pos. 4). Pipes of the “warm floor” circuit (item 5) are laid in the channels of the plates, and then the entire structure is covered on top with sheets of plywood, OSB, plasterboard, etc. (item 6) - this will become the basis for laying the finishing coating.

This method of installation is somewhat inferior to the screed in terms of heat transfer efficiency. However, this way you can gain precious millimeters of height and prevent excessive loads on the floor.

But in any case, raising the floor level cannot be avoided. This means that you should evaluate possible solutions in advance and make the right choice.

Now let’s go through the main components for laying the “warm floor” circuit - insulating mats and the pipes themselves.

Selection of insulation mats

• As already mentioned, in practice ideal conditions(the building itself and the floors in particular already have highly effective insulation, and there is a well-heated room below) roll materials, for example, penofol, can be used.

Roll of foil insulation based on polyethylene foam

Laying the circuit in this case can be carried out by tying pipe loops to a pre-laid reinforcing metal stack, or using special mounting rails with grooves for pipes.

• If higher quality insulation is required, then mats made of polystyrene foam are used (preferably extruded).

Folding polystyrene foam mat with marked marking lines

Such insulation can be in the form of separate slabs, but it is better to purchase special mats that are laid out like an “accordion” or “tractor caterpillar”. Very often, such products have a mesh applied on them, which will greatly facilitate the process of marking and laying out the contour. The foil surface will reflect heat towards the room, increasing the overall effectiveness of thermal insulation.

Fixing the pipe on the mounting rail and using a plastic clamp

Fixing pipes to such mats can also be done with a reinforcing mesh or using mounting rails, or special clamps with harpoon tips are used that reliably hold the pipe in a given place.

• However, the best, albeit expensive, solution would be to purchase special profile mats made of polystyrene foam for a water-heated floor. The protrusions - bosses - placed on their surface allow you to quickly and reliably fix the loops of the circuit without the use of any additional accessories.

Profile mat with bosses and polymer coating

The optimal choice is polymer-coated profile mats with locking protrusions (shown by arrows in the figure). When laid, a solid surface is obtained, which becomes excellent waterproofing. Thus, three problems are solved at once - insulation, creation of a waterproofing barrier and simplification of the pipe laying process. In addition, there is no need for additional reinforcement of the screed - the protruding bosses themselves perform this role.

Heat transfer plates are also well placed in the profile mat

By the way, such mats can also be used if you decide to do without a screed. Heat exchange plates are installed between the bosses, and the circuit pipes are already inserted into them.

Selection of pipes for “warm floors”

There should be no simplifications in this matter - the circuits are installed for a long time, hidden with a screed and an external covering, that is, it is necessary to have a guarantee of the safety and tightness of the pipes and their connections. Any leak, even a minor one, can lead to catastrophic consequences and large-scale repairs with the obligatory opening of the floor.

What are the requirements for pipe contours:

• Pipes made using seam technology are not acceptable.
• Pipe connections cannot be placed deep within the floor - the circuit must be made from one solid coil. There are, however, exceptions - this will be discussed below.
• Resistance to corrosion, to possible aggressive chemical effects of the coolant, to the formation of scale or lime deposits on the internal walls. Ideally, pipes should resist oxygen diffusion - many modern models provide such a function.
• Reserve of thermal and mechanical strength. The pipe material should not be afraid of elevated coolant temperatures and withstand pressure of at least 8 ÷ 10 atmospheres.
• The pipes must have a smooth inner surface to reduce the hydraulic resistance of the circuit and so that the coolant flow through them is not accompanied by noise.

Based on the specified criteria, immediately excluded steel pipes VGP - they are suture, and they cannot be used without creating joints.

Surely there is a great temptation to use polypropylene pipes, since they are inexpensive and easy to install. However, in our case they cannot be used. Firstly, they have a large coefficient of linear expansion when heated. And secondly, assembling the circuit will require a very large number of welded joints. Although high-quality welded polypropylene joints are highly reliable, narrowing is possible in these places conditional passage, accumulations of solid sediments, and even numerous rectangular turns themselves lead to a sharp increase in hydraulic resistance, which is unacceptable in underfloor heating circuits.

So, the choice can be made from the following types of pipes:

Special processing of polyethylene, which has a linear molecular structure, creates numerous cross-links (“cross-linking,” which gives the material completely new qualities. Pipes made from such cross-linked polyethylene are distinguished by excellent flexibility and strength, can easily withstand temperature changes, and are not afraid of freezing.

Pipe coil made of cross-linked polyethylene RE-Ha

The best performance indicators are for materials marked PE-Xa - their degree of cross-linking is the highest, up to 90%. And if they are supplemented with a special layer that excludes oxygen diffusion, then this is even better.

In addition, you can purchase pipes made from the most innovative polymer - PE - RT, in which the positive advantages of cross-linked polyethylene, especially in terms of thermal resistance, are expressed even more deeply.

It’s as if they were specially created for “warm floors” - they are lightweight, have good heat transfer, and allow you to lay complex contours with bends (subject to the technology). However, you should be careful when choosing them - there are a lot of low-quality products on the market that cannot withstand high temperatures and pressure surges.

In addition, the aluminum layer can be very unstable to oxygen corrosion, and this leads to delamination of the pipe and loss of its qualities. Therefore, if metal-plastic pipes are selected, then you should pay attention to the material of the outer and inner layers, and, preferably, to the presence of an oxygen barrier.

Always pay attention to the quality of the metal-plastic pipe

The best option seems to be a pipe with PE-X polyethylene on the outside and inside, and a layer of aluminum welded using a special technology.

• Copper pipes

In terms of heat transfer and service life, such pipes probably have no rivals.

Layed copper pipe circuit

The plasticity of the metal allows you to create contours of any level of complexity. Copper is not afraid of corrosion, water hammer, or critical temperatures. The only thing that stops its mass use is the very high price.

Another modern approach is the use of corrugated stainless pipes. Their high flexibility is an excellent quality for laying contours, and their resistance to corrosion, enhanced by an internal polymer coating, guarantees long service life.

Modern corrugated stainless steel pipes perform well

In addition, this is the only exception to the rules that allows making butt connections under the floor surface - this is ensured by the highest reliability of standard fittings. And, despite the fact that the maximum length in a bay is 50 m, they can be safely used for laying longer contours.

The only drawback to using such material is the very high price.

Deciding on the layout of the circuit

In order for a water “warm floor” in an apartment to be truly effective, it is necessary to follow certain rules for laying its contours.

• There are two main laying patterns - “snake” or “snail”. But they can be combined and combined in various variations. Basic diagrams are shown in the figure:

Basic contour laying schemes

a – “snail”. It is considered the most appropriate from the point of view of uniform heat distribution. It features a more complex installation process.

b – “snake”. It is easier to install, but has a distinct drawback - the heat is distributed zonally.

c – variation of the “snake” with a double entry. The heat distribution over the area is more uniform, but there are pronounced stripes.

• To prevent unnecessary heat consumption for heating wall structures, the contours are laid at a distance of no closer than 300 mm to them.
• One of the defining parameters of the circuit is the pitch of its installation, that is, the distance between adjacent pipes in the loop. Usually this value ranges from 80 mm (it is impossible to do less, since the bending radius of the pipes will not allow it) and up to 300 mm (they don’t do it anymore, since the “zebra effect” appears - pronounced stripes of warm and cold coating).

The installation step largely depends on how you plan to use the “warm floor” - whether it will be the only source of heat, or should it work in conjunction with radiators. In addition, for living rooms, a surface heating temperature of up to 29 ° C is required (if natural wood or parquet is used as a finishing coating - up to 27 ° C), whereas in the bathroom. in the kitchen, in the bathroom, decorated with ceramic tiles, in the hallway it is already 33 °C.

• It’s not for nothing that heating radiators are installed around window openings– they create a kind of curtain, minimizing heat loss. This also needs to be taken into account when drawing up a “warm floor” scheme - provide for a denser installation in areas with maximum heat loss - near windows and along external walls. And here there can be a very large number of variations of the “drawings” of the contour.

It is best to immediately depict the laying diagram to scale on a drawing - diagram. This will also help in the process of installing the circuit, and will allow you to calculate in advance the required number of pipes.

The length of the outline can be calculated using the formula:

L- the length of the contour in a certain area.

k- coefficient taking into account pipeline bends.

Thus, if the laying step is uniform over the entire area of ​​the room, then the calculation is carried out at once for the entire contour. If there are designated areas with compacted laying, then calculate the length of the pipe for each and then add it up.

To make the task easier, you can use the calculator below:

Calculator for calculating the length of pipes for a “warm floor” circuit

The direct supply and return sections, as well as the necessary “mounting ends” for connection to the collector, must be added to the obtained value.

• It should be remembered that the contour cannot be limitless. The hydraulic resistance may become higher than the coolant pressure, and the circuit will simply “close.” So, if you use a pipe DN16, then you should limit yourself to a length of 70 - 80 m (optimally - up to 60 m), with DN20 - no more than 100 m (80 m). If, as a result of calculations, it turns out that a longer circuit is needed, you will have to divide it into two, with a separate connection of each to the collector. In this case, it is desirable to achieve approximately equal lengths of both - the difference is acceptable - no more than 20%.

At the same time, if it is planned to fill the “warm floor” with a screed, a technological break in the coating must be made between the different contours and a damper tape must be installed in it. The same tape, to compensate for temperature expansion, should be laid along the walls along the entire perimeter of the room.

Equipment necessary for the functioning of a “warm floor” in an apartment

It is naive to believe that laying pipe contours already solves all the problems - they say, all that remains is to connect them to the supply and return, and everything will work immediately. Nothing of the kind - the performance of such a system will be a big question. In addition, it is necessary to solve a number of other technological problems:

• The liquid will always choose the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in order to force it to circulate along a long pipe circuit, installation will be required special equipment– pumping unit.
• Devices for releasing accumulated air are required to avoid gas locks.
• The pressure created in the system must be equalized to ensure coolant circulation with maximum efficient heat transfer, without stagnation and eliminating the possibility of water hammer.
• The temperature levels in heating radiators and in underfloor heating circuits are completely different. If in a central system the heating can reach 80 degrees, then for floor heating this is completely unacceptable. Such temperatures will create an uncomfortable environment in the room, and will have a destructive effect on the condition of the insulation screed and will lead to deformation of the floor covering.

Typically, the temperature of the coolant in the “warm floor” circuits is maintained within the range of 35 ÷ 40, maximum 50 ° C. Thus, it is necessary to install a special unit that will mix the coolant from the supply and return to achieve the required level of heating of the floor surface.

Scheme of mixing hot and cooled coolant flows in a simple three-way valve

• The coolant in the system must be clean, so installing appropriate filters will not hurt, especially if water from the central heating system is used.
• To visually monitor the operating parameters of the system - pressure in the circuit and temperature level, you will need appropriate instruments, a pressure gauge and a thermometer.
• The system must be safe to operate - without compliance with this condition, permission to install it simply will not be obtained. In addition, if you plan to connect to central risers, then the created “warm floors” should in no way interfere with the normal operation of the heating system of the entire building.

By the way, with this approach, no one will show excessive independence. Most likely, one of the following will be offered standard schemes connections to the central system. For example, such as shown in the figure:

One of the typical schemes for connecting a “warm floor” to the wiring heating system

This is exactly the option that has already been mentioned - the apartment is located last along the heating supply riser in the entrance.

An inlet valve (item 1) is installed at the entrance to the dedicated system (item 1), not shown in the diagram, but it is recommended to place an “oblique” mud filter here to prevent unclean coolant from entering the distribution equipment and the “warm floor” circuits themselves.

A check valve (item 2) and a shut-off valve are installed at the outlet of the system.

The temperature of the coolant in the “warm floor” circuits in this case is set by a three-way valve (item 3). This could be a device with manual installation the required level of mixing, or a more modern one - with a servo drive that receives a control signal from a temperature sensor at the entrance to the supply manifold (shown with a green dotted line).

Three-way valves - manually operated (left), and equipped with a servo drive

To ensure circulation, a pump is installed (item 4), which must, in terms of its performance and generated pressure, correspond to the total indicators of all circuits connected to the collector.

A bypass valve (item 5) is installed on the bypass between the collectors, which, if necessary, equalizes the pressure drops to the required value.

The collectors themselves must have air vents (item 6) and drain valves (item 7)

In the event that the underfloor heating system is connected directly to both pipes - both to the high-temperature supply and to the return (this mainly happens with a completely autonomous apartment heating system, or upon receipt of the appropriate permission to tie into the central one), then they can be used here other wiring diagrams:

General adjustment, in addition, is done using balancing valves on the bypass (pos. 3) and on the return (pos. 4). The bypass valve (item 5) provides the pressure drop required for normal circulation.

The scheme is far from perfect; it is quite difficult to accurately balance.

The circuit is simple and quite effective, but the mixing quality in it is poor.

Both the coolant temperature in the “warm floor” circuits and the pressure level can be finely adjusted.

A two-way valve and two control valves are installed.

But there is one important difference from all previously discussed schemes - the mandatory presence of a separate expansion tank (item 13) and its own “safety group” (item 12) in which the most important role is assigned to the safety valve.

An expansion tank and a “safety group” are required if heat is transferred through a heat exchanger

If you plan to connect several underfloor heating circuits, then it is also necessary to provide for their mutual balancing. If this is not observed, then the coolant will find the path of least hydraulic resistance, and in other circuits the circulation will either be unacceptably small or, in general, be interrupted. Maintaining a perfectly equal length of the contours is almost impossible, which means additional adjustment is required.

To do this, taps are installed at each of the outputs and inputs of the collector comb - with their help it will be possible to perform mutual balancing. In addition, these taps will allow you to locally turn off the circuits when their use is no longer needed or for carrying out preventive or repair work, without disrupting the functionality of the rest of the system.

Distribution manifold assembly with thermostats on each connected circuit

It’s even better if each of the circuits connected to the manifold has its own thermostat. This will make it easier to accurately set the temperature in different rooms.

As an example, the figure shows a diagram of the operation of one of the types of collector-regulating units.

Schematically - the operation of the collector unit

Is it worth assembling such a unit yourself? In principle, it is quite possible to find all the components for it, and with proper experience in plumbing installation work, assembly does not seem to be an insurmountable obstacle. However, it is still better to purchase a ready-made manifold cabinet - in its design, both each individual element and their correspondence to each other are important.

In the salon you can select a ready-made manifold assembly for any “warm floor” layout

In the assortment of specialized stores you can find the required model, designed for both small area heating with two to three “warm floor” circuits, and capable of taking over the distribution and regulation of multiple circuits laid over large areas large apartment or at home.

The installation of a manifold cabinet designed for several circuits is usually planned in such a way as to minimize long supply sections. That is, the most preferable option would be the center of the apartment complex.

So, the publication discussed the basic schemes for installing heated floors in an apartment. When choosing a specific type and calculating the system parameters, it is best to contact a qualified specialist - errors in this matter have a very serious impact on the quality of heating and are very difficult to eliminate.

Warm floors, water installation diagrams in an apartment - how to choose the optimal one

If heated floors are used for heating, water installation diagrams in the apartment differ in a number of features. Details are in the article.

If during the autumn-winter cold weather the room still remains cool, you should think about how to keep warm using radical methods. Today, such an opportunity as installing a heated floor with a liquid coolant has proven itself. The water heated floor system in the apartment is gradually replacing classic heaters and fans.

Installation of a warm water floor in an apartment

A water-heated floor in an apartment is a self-sufficient design that effectively heats a room of any size, even in severe frosts. Warm liquid coming from a gas boiler or central heating system circulates through polymer pipes. The air in the room heats up, and as it rises, it evenly distributes heat throughout the entire area of ​​the room.

This allows you to create the most optimal and comfortable conditions, thanks to which you don’t have to worry about hypothermia in your feet, while at the same time the temperature near the ceiling decreases somewhat. Doctors say that this thermal regime is most suitable for good health.

This type of design is:

• flooring (laminate, tiles, etc.);
• laying layer;
• a pump that circulates water;
• heater;
• polymer pipes;
• fasteners and distribution manifolds.

This heating option increases the service life of the finished floor covering and makes it possible to use original design solutions in the interior.

Is it possible to make a water heated floor?

The question often arises: is it possible to install water-heated floors in multi-storey buildings? Today, legislative acts prohibit changes that relate to various improvements pipeline diagrams in housing stock where there is central heating. It can give an increased load, which was not taken into account at the time of designing the house. Forced circulation will be required and sufficient complex installation special pump.

But, theoretically, such systems can be installed in any room, the main thing is not to upset the balance of water flow and comply with the conditions for dosing heat consumption. In addition, in new buildings the layout provides for the presence of risers for connecting TVP.

To make the installation of a structure in an apartment legal, special permits from a representative of housing and communal services and heating networks will help. Required documents will be issued only after checking the premises and agreeing on the equipment necessary for further use. Unauthorized connection of a heated floor may result in fines, litigation and other troubles:

• if necessary, it will not be possible to sell the apartment legally;
• if a circuit break occurs and the apartment of the neighbors below is damaged, all repair costs will have to be paid in full.

Before you make a water-heated floor in an apartment, you should calculate possible consequences and negative risks, take into account positive and negative qualities this modernization.

Advantages and disadvantages of water heated floors

Compared to alternative heating systems, a warm water floor has a number of undeniable advantages.

• Economical. Low-temperature water reduces heat consumption in residential buildings by 20-30%. In spacious rooms with above-average ceiling heights, savings reach about 60%.
• Safety. The heating elements hide the screed and the flooring layer. The risk of burns and injuries is completely eliminated. This also applies to situations involving long contacts with a warm surface. The likelihood of fungus appearing is reduced to zero, since there are no areas of high dampness.
• Convenience. It is very pleasant to walk on such a floor without slippers, and you also don’t have to worry about the health of children who want to play on the floor.
  The humidity level remains virtually unchanged and the air does not dry out. The room is heated evenly, which allows you to obtain temperature conditions that are optimally suitable for humans.
• Visually aesthetic interior. The system does not affect overall design premises, which cannot be said about traditional batteries and pipes. All parts and devices of the heating structure are hidden from prying eyes; redevelopment can be done without difficulty. Radiators do not have to be hidden behind plasterboard panels or replaced with new ones.

During use, a water heated floor from central heating requires lower costs than an electric one. The system requires virtually no maintenance, and during installation all necessary sanitary, hygienic and environmental regulations security.

Among the disadvantages are:

• high cost and labor-intensive installation - the multilayer structure is based on several types of materials;
• the likelihood of possible pipe leaks - the problem can be found and eliminated only by completely lifting the floor covering;
• slow heating of the screed - this method is only suitable for rooms where people live permanently.

Installing a water heated floor in an apartment is not always possible. Some rooms will require the installation of additional heating sources (convectors or radiators).

Preparing for work on installing water heated floors in an apartment

Before starting work on installing water heated floor heating in an apartment, you should calculate the amount of materials that will be needed to organize the system. To do this, you will need to evaluate the characteristics of the finishing coating, the area and features of the room (maintained temperature, window features, wall material, etc.). If there is a strong draft in the room, it is advisable to first insulate it.

The characteristics of the pipes used to circulate the liquid acting as the coolant should also be taken into account. Today the most popular types are:

• foamed propylene;
• metal-plastic;
• copper;
• corrugated stainless steel

The length of the prepared pipes is influenced by the installation method - snail or snake. The first option, despite the complexity of design and installation, is more effective. In such a system, pipes with relatively hot and cool water alternate sequentially, evenly distributing warm air throughout the room.

Installation of a heated floor system

The installation of a warm water floor in an apartment must begin with careful preparation of the surface. Construction debris should be removed and the base leveled. The horizontal plane should not have differences exceeding 5 mm. Otherwise, zones of coolant stagnation will form, as a result of which the structure may fail. There are three options for installing this heating system.

Concrete water heated floor system

The most popular installation method, in which cement-sand screed is the main material in the base and distribution layer. A film is laid on the concrete layer, providing heat and waterproofing. Then a special tape is glued around the perimeter of the room, which will prevent cracks from appearing and absorb the expansion of the screed when the circuit heats up.

Special grids with cells are mounted on top of the thermal insulation, and pipes are installed to them. It is important to correctly calculate the distance between them; this determines how evenly the incoming heat will be distributed. Recommended installation step:

• in cold areas (near windows, doors) - 10 cm;
• in rooms with normal heat loss - 20-30 cm;
• in cold rooms - 15 cm.

For spacious rooms, reinforcing mesh is used during installation. It is not recommended to lay pipes where furniture can be installed.

The structural elements are fixed, energized and kept for several days. If there is no damage, fill the supporting layer with a mixture containing cement, sand and plasticizers.

Then the finishing floor covering is laid. If the installation of a hot water system in an apartment should be done under ceramic tiles, then the screed should not be wider than five centimeters.

Wooden floor heating system

Polystyrene underfloor heating system

You can make a heated water floor in an apartment with your own hands using special heat-insulating boards. The products are distinguished by a special form of pressing and have the appearance of convex circles. They are ideally suited for quick and convenient installation of pipes. The slabs are securely interlocked with locks along the edges, making it possible to create a monolith along the entire perimeter of the floor.

Is it possible to make water-heated floors yourself without resorting to the help of specialists? This option is possible, but several recommendations should be taken into account.

• When installing a heating structure, you need to completely dismantle the old finish, right down to the concrete screed.
• Replace metal pipes (if any) with a plastic counterpart, this will avoid rust at the joints.
• Reliable waterproofing from a trusted manufacturer will save the floor from possible leaks.
• When installing insulation, be sure to seal the seams between the sheets with metallized tape. An additional layer of waterproofing will reduce all possible risks leakage.
• If laminate or natural wood was used as a finishing coating, the temperature of the coolant should be increased gradually. If there is a sudden jump, the material may be damaged, which will significantly reduce its service life.
• The heated water floor in the apartment must be installed so that when the circuit is turned off, the coolant circulates in the central system. Fill the screed or lay thermal distribution plates only on the filled system.

Features of operation and possible errors

When you connect a heated floor, the temperature in the apartment rises for quite a long time. It takes time for the floor, walls and air in the room to warm up, so installation should begin before the onset of the first cold weather.

During installation, certain errors are often made:

• independent connection to the riser - the pipe is constantly filled with coolant; to begin work you need to obtain a special permit and completely drain the water;
• it is impossible to regulate the temperature - you need to install a water manifold and a mixing unit;
• lack of a project - you should not start work without determining the layout of the pipes and dividing the apartment or house into heating zones;
• materials and components from different manufacturers - this common mistake can cause rapid depressurization of the structure.

Installation of a system such as a warm water floor is a rather complex and labor-intensive process. But, if you wish, you can handle the installation yourself without involving specialists. The main thing is to obtain the necessary permission and strictly follow the recommendations for working with the materials used. However, so that the question of how to make water heated floors in apartments does not become the cause of unnecessary financial costs, it is better to seek qualified help.

Often, a heated floor is used as an additional heating device to the main heating supply. The most common types of underfloor heating are water and electric systems. The electric type of underfloor heating is mostly used to heat up as quickly as possible. cold tiles, used as finishing on the floor of a loggia, veranda or bathroom. Sometimes such heating is equipped as additional to central heating. Electric heated floors are mainly installed in rooms where water heating cannot be installed. Reviews from many users indicate that the “Warm Floor” invention is profitable, convenient and comfortable.

Water heated floor in an apartment or house: installation principles

A warm water floor is essentially a complex multi-component system, where each part performs its own function.

According to the principle of arrangement, heated floors are divided into the following types:

• Dry, used mainly in private homes with wooden floors;
• Wet, poured with screed and concrete.

The most common type of installation is the wet type, since it is concrete floors that most need heating.

A warm water floor must be installed on a stable and durable base. They can be any concrete slab or hard ground. A vapor barrier, mainly made of polyethylene, is laid on such a base. Its thickness must be at least 0.1 mm. At the next stage of laying the “pie”, insulation is applied. This can be extruded polystyrene foam, which has a very low thermal conductivity, reasonable cost and high mechanical strength. A cement-sand screed is laid on top of the insulation. For ease of installation and mobility of the mixture, it is necessary to add a plasticizer to it. The screed must be reinforced with a metal mesh made of wire, the cell pitch of which is 50*50 mm. Sometimes weaving 100*100 mm is also used. Warm heating pipes with coolant circulating through them should pass through the screed inside. The height of the screed above the pipes should be at least 3 cm. However, experts say that 5 cm will be better, since the strength of the coating in this case is much higher, and therefore the area of ​​heat distribution over the floor will be more uniform.

Warm water floor from central heating: types of flooring

In the place where the floor adjoins the wall, as well as at the ends of the warm water heating circuits, it is necessary to lay a damper tape to compensate for the thermal expansion of concrete when heated. The top floor covering is the same material that is designed to work with heating.

The following types of construction activities are most suitable for these purposes:

• Ceramic tile;
• Laminate;
• Porcelain tiles;
• Carpet.

However, when choosing the material that you will use for arranging a heated floor, check for the presence of a special symbol in the marking, indicating the suitability of the material for use for arranging a heated floor. In addition, it must be remembered that for a longer service life of the floor covering, it is necessary to observe the thermal conditions in the room.

How to make a water heated floor in an apartment: room requirements

In addition to the requirements for the floor covering, for the proper functioning of the “Warm Floor” system, it is necessary to comply with other conditions that positively affect the operation of the equipment. Some of them relate to the room in which the heating will work.

The most competent solution is the option when the construction of a heated floor pipeline is planned at the initial stages of building a house.

This heating system is quite widespread today in countries such as Sweden, Germany, Canada and Norway. Other economically successful countries, in which energy resources are quite expensive, also use systems that help reduce heating costs, including heated floors. Underfloor heating is considered to be 30-40% more economical than conventional radiator heating.

In a ready-made room, it is also quite possible to install a “Warm Floor” heating system, however, for this, the room must meet the following requirements:

• Considering that the thickness of the heating water floor coating reaches 8 - 20 cm, the height of the ceilings in such a room should make it possible to install this heating system and not make the room too low.
• It is important to take into account the size of door openings, which cannot be less than 210 cm in height.
• The solid foundation under the floor must be very strong, otherwise it will not be able to withstand the cement-sand screed.
• The base must also be smooth, clean and even, and if there are unevennesses, they cannot exceed 5 mm;
• In the room in which you plan to begin installing a heated floor, finishing and plastering work must be completed, and the windows must be in place.

Heat loss in the premises should be at the level of 100 W/m2. If their indicator is higher, then insulation measures must be taken.

The floor is warm from hot water in the apartment: elements of the heating system

The principle of operation of such a device as a water heated floor is quite simple. Under the floor covering there are pipes through which the coolant (water) flows, supplied from the general heating system. It gives off heat to the floor, and thus heats the floor covering, then the law of physics ensures that warm air quickly rises up and heats the room.

The “Warm water floor” system consists of the following elements:

• Hot water boiler;
• Pump to increase water circulation in the system;
• Ball valves;
• Pipes for distribution through which water flows;
• Collector;
• Regulatory system;
• Fittings for connecting the pipeline to the manifold.

The boiler you choose should be powerful enough to handle the amount of water you will have in your system. In addition, the unit must have 15-20% power reserve.

Water heated floor in an apartment (video)

Traditional radiators and radiators, which for many years were considered the only acceptable source of heat, are today giving way to new systems such as underfloor heating or heated baseboards. Many are willing to implement innovative methods, and immediately feel their advantage. However, heated floors were previously used in some institutions, such as kindergartens and schools, but these were exceptional cases and they were practically not used in private homes. Today, the installation of heated floors is practically on a conveyor belt, and anyone can install a heated water floor in their apartment or house with their own hands.

The advantages of heated floors (abbreviated as TP) over conventional radiators are well known. Therefore, many owners of apartments and private houses want to install underfloor heating circuits and supply coolant from the existing radiator system.

A number of difficulties arise here - you need to install and correctly connect the water heated floor from the heating system so that the water temperature in the loops remains within 55-60 °C. But the first task is to make sure technical feasibility laying the TP “pie” and connecting to existing highways at the lowest cost.

How to fit a “pie” into a room with low thresholds

Almost all homeowners who decide to install underfloor heating in a habitable house or city apartment face this problem. The essence of the issue: the height of the thresholds of entrance or interior doors is not enough to install a full-fledged “pie” of warm water floors with screed (see drawing below).

Let us analyze the composition of a monolithic heating circuit located on an interfloor or basement floor:

1. Waterproofing - bitumen coating, more often - polyethylene film.
2. Insulation – extruded polystyrene foam with a minimum thickness of 30 mm or polystyrene foam 5 cm.
3. Damper tape around the perimeter of the room.
4. A heating pipe (usually metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene with a diameter of 16 x 2 mm), laid in a snail or snake pattern.
5. Cement-sand screed 8.5 cm thick.
6. Floor covering (sometimes a vapor barrier layer is placed underneath it). The thickness depends on the material, laminate and linoleum will take up to 1 cm, ceramic tiles with an adhesive mixture will take about 20 mm.

The traditional surface heating scheme is made without reinforcement

An important nuance. If a monolithic heated floor is installed above the ground, the thickness of the insulation increases to at least 100 mm of polystyrene foam or 60 mm of extruded foam. The density of both materials is 35 kg/m³.

In total, the total height of the “pie” with a laminate coating will be 85 + 30 + 10 = 125 mm. No normal owner envisages such high thresholds. How to solve the problem and implement underfloor heating in a similar situation:

Reference. The only room in the apartment where the thresholds remain high is the balcony and loggia. There is no need to reinvent the wheel; usually the monolith fits freely along with thermal insulation.

Dry laid surface heating system

Some home-grown craftsmen do not install insulation at all or reduce the thickness of the screed to 4 cm. In the first case, half of the generated heat will go into the basement, soil or to neighbors below, in the second, the monolith expanding from heating will soon crack.

An expert will tell you in more detail and clearly in the video how best to make a heated floor in an apartment building:

Connection from central heating

According to the legislation of the Russian Federation, the Republic of Belarus, Ukraine and other countries of the former USSR, unauthorized interference in the system district heating forbidden. Simply put, for connection additional devices heating and underfloor heating systems face a large fine and an order to dismantle excess heaters.

Note. Similar measures and responsibility are provided for connecting the transformer substations to the centralized hot water supply (DHW) network.

How is an unauthorized connection from centralized heating detected:

Some “cunning people” advise connecting the TP loops through a plate heat exchanger in order to isolate the circuits from the central heating. The catch: the hydraulic resistance of the network will not increase and a pipe break will not cause serious flooding, but the amount of heat removed will still increase.

How to do underfloor heating legally:

1. Contact the heating supply organization with an application and obtain permission.
2. Receive along with the permit technical specifications for installation and connection of floor circuits.
3. Develop and approve the project.
4. Install the system yourself and put it into operation.

It must be admitted that the vast majority of applicants are rejected at the application stage. An exception is made for residents of new buildings with individual connection of apartment heating to distribution risers. But if you decide, at your own peril and risk, to embed heating circuits into the heating network, proceed to study the next section.

Connection options

To provide normal work contours of the TP and get the long-awaited feeling of comfort, you need to solve 2 issues:

1. Supply coolant with a temperature of no higher than 50 °C (maximum 55 °C) into the heating circuit pipes. Overheated floors cause discomfort for most people; the optimal temperature for finishing is 26 °C.
2. Ensure the required coolant flow in radiators and underfloor heating loops. If the diameter of the supply line is too small or circulation pump does not develop the required performance, radiators and heated floors will heat equally poorly.

Let's look at several schemes that allow you to connect a water-heated floor to an existing heating system. Let's see how well the issues of temperature and coolant flow are resolved in each option:

• direct connection to a two-pipe radiator network;
• the same, using regulating thermostatic heads;
• insertion into the main line of a single-pipe system with an additional pump;
• full connection with a separate pipe from the boiler.

Direct connection to the radiator network

The insertion of the TP circuit into the supply and return of a two-pipe distribution will function tolerably under the following conditions:

• the total heated area is relatively small - up to 100 square meters;
• heat source – gas boiler capable of maintaining the coolant temperature within 40-50 °C;
• the circulation pump installed in the boiler room has sufficient performance;
• heated floors are designed for heating small rooms - bathroom, kitchen, children's room.

The direct connection scheme is suitable only for small heating areas

The direct connection scheme has a right to life, but in general it is very imperfect. Judge for yourself: it is much easier for water to move along a path of low resistance further along the main line than to flow into a long pipe of the heating circuit.

Point two: when severe cold weather sets in, you yourself will raise the temperature in the boiler, the floor surface will heat up, and the room will become stuffy. The tiled bathroom will turn into a bathhouse. Please note: intensive heating of the bathroom is absolutely useless; people are not there all the time.

Option for direct insertion of the circuit instead of a dead-end radiator with two-pipe wiring

For reference. As some home craftsmen also do: they connect the TP circuit to a break in the return line running from the batteries to the heat source. And then they wonder why the heated floors and radiators don’t work. The reason is an increase in the hydraulic resistance of the entire branch and a decrease in coolant flow.

Using RTL valves

Special thermal heads of the RTL type will directly help to correctly solve the issue of regulating the water temperature when connecting a heated floor. An automatic valve is installed on the return pipeline and can be easily adjusted to a certain temperature. The work algorithm looks like this:

1. Until the heating of the coolant reaches the value set on the thermal head, it quietly circulates through the pipe of the floor circuit.
2. When the water temperature rises to the set value, the head actuator closes the thermostatic valve. The circulation stops and the coolant cools down.
3. After the temperature decreases as a result of cooling, the thermostat opens the passage and the movement of water resumes.

Heating is regulated based on the temperature of the return flow limited by the thermal head

Reference Information. The European company Oventrop has long been offering solutions for such cases - UniBox blocks built into the wall. There is an RTL type thermal head inside, the adjustment handle is brought out. There are versions with two valves - one controls the coolant flow based on the return flow temperature, the second controls the heating of the surrounding air.

The disadvantage of the solution is the limitation of the pipeline length. If the length of the loop exceeds 50 m, the transformer transformer will begin to operate unevenly due to increased resistance. To heat medium and large rooms, you will have to divide the heated floors into 2-3 circuits and the same number of monoliths separated by expansion joints, as shown in the drawing.

Now about the pros:

• heating with heated floors can be organized in any room, without being tied to the boiler and furnace;
• the price of the product is incomparable with the cost of mixing units and additional pumps;
• if the batteries are equipped with air thermal heads, the TP system will be able to operate in summer period– the radiators will turn off themselves.

The described scheme is also suitable for connecting underfloor heating to a two-pipe centralized heating network. But keep in mind one nuance: dirty coolant can quickly clog the thermostatic valve or damage it. The master will tell you about the intricacies of the operation of RTL heads in the next video:

Is it possible to connect to a single-pipe distribution?

In order to power the heated floors from heating - the single-pipe "Leningrad" favorite of many craftsmen - you will have to assemble the mixing unit with your own hands and install a second pump, as shown in the diagram. For normal functioning system must meet the following conditions:

• the internal diameter of the distribution line is at least DN25, the maximum number of radiators on the ring is 5 pieces;
• the connection of the TP loop is made into the return pipeline after all batteries;
• the minimum distance between the supply and return taps of the heated floor is 30 cm;
• To maintain the temperature in the circuit, a three-way mixing valve is installed.

Note. A similar scheme is used by apartment owners to unauthorizedly connect TPs to the old type of central heating - single-pipe vertical risers.

In this and other diagrams, shut-off valves and are not shown, but it is necessary to install this valve

The three-way valve is of a simplified design, capable of preparing water at a fixed temperature of 45-50 °C. The pump “drives” the coolant through the loop, and the valve mixes in portions of hot water from the main line.

In practice, the scheme is used quite rarely. The reason is instability of operation and imbalance of radiators connected to a single pipe of the Leningradka. When the three-way valve opens slightly and recharges the heating circuit, the pump pressure is transferred to the main line, and the water flow in the batteries changes.

Advice. If you want to assemble a reliable underfloor heating system with your own hands, it is better to install separate supply and return pipelines from the boiler. The consequences of perversions with a single-pipe radiator network are unpredictable.

Traditional scheme with mixing unit

When it is necessary to install underfloor heating in each room of a two-story house, you cannot connect to the existing radiator heating. It is necessary to lay separate pipelines and install a distribution comb. What connection options are used:

• if the length of the circuits does not exceed 50 m (including connections to the collector), thermal heads are installed on the comb that respond to the return flow temperature;
• mixing unit with manifold and two-way valve;
• the same, with a three-way thermostatic valve.

In the first case, the principle of operation is similar to inserting one loop through the RTL head, only the regulators are located on the comb and control each circuit separately, as is implemented in the photo. Circulation is provided by the main pump located in the combustion chamber or inside a wall-mounted gas boiler.

In the second option, hot water is mixed by a two-way valve installed on the supply and controlled by a thermal head with an external temperature sensor. The latter is hidden in the collector pipe or screwed to it from the outside.

When the temperature of the supplied coolant increases, the liquid from the sensor flask presses on the valve stem and it closes. The scheme provides for the installation of an additional pump that pumps water through all loops of the TP.

The scheme with a three-way valve, whose operating principle is described above, is more advanced and is designed for a significant flow of coolant in heated floors. The disadvantage of both options is the high price of the equipment and the complexity of installation. All details about heating circuits are given in the corresponding manual.

Instructions for installing heated floors

If you have settled all the issues regarding laying the “pie” and choosing a connection diagram, you can proceed to pouring the heating plates. First, find out the required thermal power of the circuits, the diameter and distance between the pipes, using.

Before installation, level the surface and carefully remove debris. When installing a screed on the ground, prepare a compacted sand cushion or footing 4 cm thick. The technology for pouring a monolithic heated floor looks like this:

1. Perform waterproofing using film sheets laid out over the entire area of ​​the room with an overlap of 100-150 mm. Tape the joints properly and make overlaps along the edges onto the walls up to the level of the future finished floor.
2. Cover the lower part of the walls in contact with the screed with damper tape around the entire perimeter, as shown in the photo. The overlap of the waterproofing film should remain on top of the strip.

   A damper strip is glued to the walls, and an expansion joint is made between the monoliths

3. Place the insulation boards tightly against each other. While rolling out the coil and straightening the pipe, arrange the loops of the heating circuits with the required spacing. The pipeline is fixed to the insulation using plastic staples at intervals of 35-40 cm.
4. Bring the ends of the loops to the connection point - the collector or radiator heating lines. Before final assembly diagram, fill the circuit with water and check the tightness with a pressure of 3-4 Bar.
   

Note. If you intend to pour a thin screed (6 cm), lay a reinforcing mesh on top of the polystyrene slabs. Do not connect pipes inside the future monolith; place only solid ones, without joints.

Leaving the hinges filled with water (so that they do not float up and collapse under the weight of the concrete), make a cement-sand mortar from the ready-made dry mixture for floors and fill the screed. Continue work after about 4 weeks - this is how long it takes for complete hardening. The technology without cement screed is described in detail in our other publication.

Conclusion

Listening to the opinions of master plumbers and experts, we will give a final recommendation: avoid connecting a water-heated floor to the working heating branches. It is better to tie the heating circuits of the TP directly to the boiler, then the floor heating will be able to function independently of the batteries, including in the summer. See the latest video for the process of laying out pipes and pouring concrete screed.