How to get rid of lilac bushes on your property. How to get rid of lilacs on your property forever: methods for removing roots and shoots

Many owners of country lands inherited long-developed plots of land or bought them from summer residents of the Soviet period. Then the approaches to decorating a dacha were much simpler, and the possibilities were modest. The main decorative element was fragrant lilac bushes. Several decades have passed, and today's gardeners are struggling with the question of how to get rid of lilac growth on the site. The point is not that growing lilacs is no longer fashionable and you need to get rid of them forever. The uncontrolled growth of the shoots over the course of decades led to the aggressive takeover of the entire surrounding territory.

Reasons for the appearance of shoots

The multi-trunk shrub, beloved by the people, reproduces by seeds, root suckers, and shoots that appear on the site of the stump remaining from the felled trunk. The plant lives for about a hundred years, actively producing young shoots throughout its life.

Lilac thickets

The superficial lateral branches of lilac roots produce several root suckers each year. They appear even at a distance of half a meter from the mother bush. The result is a bush that is 50–60 years old, growing more than ten meters around. The growing juveniles themselves begin to develop the territory, squeezing out the remaining plants.

Ways to fight

This indomitable growth of lilacs has become a headache for gardeners: the land is idle, it cannot be used for any purpose. garden crops, nor for decorative purposes. For some summer residents, the goal is to destroy the lilac altogether, while others are looking for methods to get rid of its shoots. In the fight against lilacs for territory, a number of measures have already been developed, proposed by agricultural technicians, chemists, and experienced gardeners.

Trimming overgrowth with pruning shears

Mechanical removal

The cleanest", safe way remove lilac thickets from the site - uproot them with your own hands. This is a very labor-intensive, lengthy process that does not provide a 100% guarantee that no rhizome will emerge from the remaining fragment of the rhizome. new shoot. But to uproot the bulk of the roots - necessary condition for opponents of the use of chemistry.

Gardeners who have already completed this stage recommend the following technology:

• cut off the main trunk and shoots at the root;
• If possible, remove the soil from large roots along the entire length;
• Using shovels or crowbars, pull the roots out of the ground, starting away from the trunk, pulling out most of the branches.

Uprooting overgrowth

When the peripheral root shoots do not hold onto the ground, it is easier to pull out the central part. To do this, you will again have to wield shovels, crowbars, and other suitable tool. There is even experience in pulling using a tow rope or slings using automotive equipment. After removing the bulk of the roots, the area should be carefully dug up, pulling out all the small roots.

To guarantee success at this stage, you should use one of the proven folk remedies to finally get rid of the roots:

1. Cover the entire area with regular table salt at the rate of a kilogram per 1m2 area. Pour boiling water over it. Cover with any material that prevents the penetration of light - roofing felt, roofing felt, black film, sheets of metal, etc. - for 1–2 years.
2. Instead of salt, use fresh manure or sodium nitrate in high concentration. The procedure is carried out towards the end of summer. The effect is that overfertilization stimulates growth at a time when the plant should be preparing to rest. Stimulation weakens and destroys the young. For the winter, cover the area in the same way and leave it for 1–2 years.

Apply fresh manure

Proven technology allows you to remove all the roots of shrubs that have become weeds, environmentally by safe means. The only negative is the labor intensity and time-consuming process.

Chemicals

If you need a fast-acting remedy to destroy lilac thickets, then you need the help of herbicides. Regular Roundup or Tornado is unlikely to cope with mature shrubs, at least in traditional dosages. To be more confident, lilacs are treated with herbicides at the beginning of the season according to a separate scheme:

1. Having cut off all the shoots and the main trunk at the root, they expect young growth growing from the roots - the tender sprouts will become suppliers not of food, but of poison.
2. Each shoot is treated with a chemical, and it is more effective not to spray, but to “paint” it with a brush. This application of the drug will provide maximum coverage and rapid penetration of the active substance.
3. If the bush is mature and strong, then shoots will continue to appear for some time. Each sprout should be treated with the drug once or twice.
4. Having detected a stop in the growth of juveniles, treatments are stopped, and the entire area is covered with light-proof materials until the onset of the next summer season.

Cover the area with black film

If you need more effective means than poisoning lilacs, then you should pay attention to arboricides that can destroy woody crops. Drugs in this group inhibit the vital activity of shrubs and trees.

Among the approved products for combating lilac growth, “Arsenal New” (registration until 2020) and “Arbonal” (current registration expires by the end of 2019) are suitable. Both drugs are characterized as highly effective agents, but they must be used in compliance with dosages and safety measures.

Installing a protective screen

Gardeners, whose goal is not to destroy lilacs, but to control the spread of its offspring, use protective screens to contain the growth.

Having decided on the territory to be allocated to the bush, 1–1.5 m in diameter, a ditch 40–50 cm deep is dug along the border. A fence is installed along the entire perimeter without gaps or gaps, and a ditch is dug. It’s not bad if the fence, going 50 cm deep, rises 5–10 cm above the surface - inside the perimeter, a thick layer of mulch also restrains the growth of the bush.

The materials for the protective screen are wooden boards (by impregnating them with antifungal agents, we will increase their service life), sheets of metal, and roofing felt.

Preventive measures

A huge number of lilac varieties attract gardeners today, but there are none that do not produce shoots at all. A new generation of landowners, savvy with knowledge, will avoid mistakes when planting lilacs and caring for shrubs for many years.

1. When preparing a hole for a lilac seedling, the installation of a protective screen is immediately taken into account, adjusting the diameter and depth of the planting site.
2. When a shoot appears, it must be cut off without the stump, at the base. You should not hesitate to remove them so that the young shoots do not gain strength.
3. Mulching with a thick layer inhibits the growth of suckers, making them weak - these are easier to remove.
4. After flowering, the brushes are pruned, otherwise the seeds will germinate, and unplanned lilac bushes in unexpected places will create new problems.

Pruning lilacs after flowering

Aroma blooming lilac excites even people indifferent to gardening topics. The sight of bushes covered with the foam of flowering brushes makes a city dweller’s heart skip a beat. There's no point in denying yourself the pleasure of enjoying it ornamental shrub. You just need to tame the lilac.

Almost any personal plot there are trees. Sooner or later the time comes when they stop producing crops and must be disposed of. Cutting down a trunk is not at all difficult, but not everyone knows how to quickly uproot a stump without effort and spend a lot of effort in an unsuccessful struggle.

There are various methods for uprooting a stump without effort, and each of them has its own advantages, since it is selected individually, depending on the location of the stump on the site. Let's learn about these methods in more detail.

Use of heavy equipment

As experience shows, it is possible to quickly uproot a stump, without making any effort, only using mechanical assistants. It should be noted right away that this method is the most expensive, because an hour of operation of such equipment is very expensive.

But the goal will be justified if there is a huge stump on the site large diameter, which is simply impossible to deal with manually.

As a rule, the stump is first dug around the circumference in order to pass under its roots. steel rope. After it is securely fastened, the caterpillar tractor, applying a little force, pulls the stump out of the ground along with thick branches of roots. If you cut down a tree high up, you can simply wrap the tall stump without doing any digging.

In addition to the tractor, a bulldozer or excavator can be used, which with a bucket can pick up the stump in the root area and completely uproot it in about five minutes.

But, in this way, it is possible to uproot stumps in an area where there is an opportunity for this large-sized equipment to turn around, but in already cultivated areas, this is often impossible. Therefore, heavy artillery is used at the site planning stage, when there are no fences and perennial plantings in the garden and vegetable garden.

A completely different matter is a small cutter or stump grinder, with dimensions no larger than a lawn mower. With this manual equipment stump and adjacent roots are easily crushed into sawdust to a depth of 30 centimeters.

Manual method

Swinging a sledgehammer and wielding a crowbar is a task that not everyone can do. But you can cheat a little if you use it as a supplement hand winch. It is installed near a stump, the height of which should be at least a meter, for better grip. The roots will need to be exposed in order to place a wooden wedge under them on the side opposite to the winch. Without much effort, in a couple of hours of work you can pull the stump out of its habitable place and begin to improve the vacated plot of land.

Chemical method of uprooting stumps

When in agriculture Chemistry began to be actively used, people learned how best to uproot stumps without physically bothering themselves at all. Although, it should be noted that one cannot count on a quick result here. But if you have a year or two left, then it is better to use this simple uprooting option.

It is necessary to drill as much as possible into the stump deep holes about 10mm in diameter. It is advisable to do this in the fall, so that during the winter the chemical processes naturally have time to produce the necessary effect on the wood tissue. Urea should be poured into these holes.

Thus, until next autumn the wood will be completely destroyed and only a pile of dust will remain in place of the stump. Salt has a similar effect, which also destroys the stump, but it can only be used where construction is planned, since excess salt in the soil leads to a sharp decrease in soil fertility.

And here ammonium nitrate, which is also poured into drilled holes, has a slightly different effect. It is absorbed by moisture into wood tissue, making it more flammable. Having soaked a stump with such a solution, you can burn it very quickly, resulting in an excellent fertile area.

Those who do not know how to properly uproot a stump on their own can be advised to contact a specialized service that deals with cutting down trees and uprooting stumps. These organizations have specialized equipment and great experience, so they can easily rid the area of ​​such a problem as an old stump.

Related articles:

Lilac propagation by rhizomatous shoots

Own-root varieties of common lilac begin to produce shoots from the age of four-five. Not all varieties are capable of developing a lot of shoots. There are also those who give it little or almost none. Especially a lot of shoots appear, starting from the age of five to ten years, on bushes growing in deep, fertile, well-drained and warmed soils. The shoots inherit all the characteristics of the variety and can be successfully used for propagation. IN small gardens it is raised up to two or three years, without being separated from mother plant, then at the end of summer - beginning of autumn they are transplanted to a permanent place.

The first time the lilac shoots are separated is in early June when it reaches 5-7 cm in height, when the shoots have not yet turned brown. Before separation, the soil in the mother area is watered abundantly. The roots of the shoot are very delicate and quickly fade, so it needs to be separated in cloudy weather or in the morning and evening hours, as planting progresses.

When digging, the roots should be 3-5 cm long. The plants are placed in a picking box, the bottom of which is sprinkled with damp moss, peat or sand, and sprayed. Then they are planted in a cold greenhouse. The planting density in the row and between the rows is 5-7 cm.

For the first week after planting, lilac plants are kept under film and sprayed twice a day.

During this time, they develop young roots. Then the cover is removed and watered as needed. In a nursery, it is better to grow shoots over two growing seasons. In the second year, at the end of summer - beginning of autumn, the seedlings are transplanted for growing into a school of shrubs for two years.

The second time the lilac shoots are separated at the end of August - beginning of September, in more southern zones - later. Its height at this time is 15 cm or more, and the shoots become somewhat lignified. When dug up, the roots may not be very long, but quite well branched. According to the degree of development, the shoots are sorted into two varieties. The first category includes stronger plants. They are planted in a shrub school for two to three years for growing, after which they are sold as standard seedlings. Second-grade shoots are planted on ridges, where they are grown for one to two years, and then transplanted into a school of shrubs for two years.

When caring for mother plants lilacs, special attention should be paid to timely thinning of bushes, removal of old and diseased branches; faded panicles are cut off if seed collection is not intended. soil tree trunk circles contain sufficiently fertilized, moderately moistened and mulched.

Lilac bushes grown from shoots enter a period of mass flowering at the age of five to seven years, i.e. about two years later than with those propagation methods when shoots are taken from already flowering branches. However, the late start of flowering of seedlings of coppice origin is more than compensated for by their longevity.

Degree of shoot development in self-rooted plants different varieties lilac has been little studied. It is known that a lot of shoots are formed in such varieties as Buffon, Madame Casimir Perrier, Captain Balte, Condorcet, Reaumur, Fürst Bülow.

Lilac. How to fight? Help Wanted!

Good day everyone!
Yesterday my husband and I tried to fight lilacs in our garden plot.

It was necessary to remove 3 large lilac bushes from a summer cottage with minimal losses for the garden and for our forces.
Our bushes are very old, already dried up in the middle, and along the edge of the bush there is a lot of young growth and this growth stretches almost 3 meters from the bushes.
Yesterday we tried to lime one of the bushes. First, they dug up the young growth along the edges, then broke out the branches from the middle, and then in place former bush They lit a fire and burned it out. The effect is certainly not very good, but at least for a couple of weeks it will stop our lilacs from actively reproducing. There are a few young sections left to use new methods.
The question is: How to lime the roots? And how to remove lilac bushes from under an apple tree. One is sitting right next to each other, we are still afraid to touch him.
Uprooting with my hands and feet - I'm afraid my husband won't be able to do that. He tried to lime one bush for about 4 hours, but we didn’t solve the problem with the roots.
I read on the Internet about herbicides such as ROUNDUP, TORNADO, HURRICANE, etc.

But it’s scary for the apple tree.
Who can advise?

These are the bushes we have along the fence. Some of the cherry weed was removed, leaving lilac “for dessert.”

The fruits of my husband's labors.

First, cut down everything. Or even easier, use a trimmer to mow down small branches. Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm. That is, in about five minutes the husband will mow down everything that is necessary and unnecessary. Only instead of fishing line you need to put knives. And then let him take an ax, which you don’t mind, and cut off all the branches right in the ground. The apple tree will not be harmed. If new ones come out over the summer, let him cut it again. You can then dig up this place several times with a cultivator without going too deep. Then dig up with a shovel. I destroyed the bird cherry bush. And the bush was no match for yours. It was about five meters high.

Daughter Carlo writes:

Good trimmers take branches up to 3 cm, so I need to have a dead one, only grass and only cut dry ones. but I can’t financially afford a more powerful one yet, I also dream

Ask your neighbors. Somebody in the village makes hay fields with something like this. Or ask if your dead body also has knives.

my dead one doesn’t have knives)))) its motor won’t hold up, I thought I’d come up with something like that on my own and ask. Do not need! pay and everything will be mowed down for you

Well then, take the ax and cut everything right into the ground.

nooo! I’m fine with lilacs!))))) I’m not going to cut them down, on the contrary, I want to plant them along the back boundary of the plot instead of a fence; the author of the post has grown lilacs)))))

Maybe you will find something useful for yourself here?
http://www.asienda.ru/post/1428/
Cutting it down, as I understand it, is not particularly difficult? But remove the roots.

I read this post, thank you. The trouble is that there is no trunk as such. only branches and roots. (((((That’s why I couldn’t use this post. (((

For example, the first method, where you need to add saltpeter, can help. If you cut everything down, make holes in several stumps and fill them with saltpeter.
Or method No. 4, where to sprinkle salt

I also sprayed the bushes and even drained the wild tornado and got rid of everything without any problems, the roots were all gone

I haven’t been able to grow lilacs for years; they are dying in my swamp, and you don’t know how to get rid of them. Probably we in the north are only happy about every flowering stick

I would also be glad if it blooms. BUT our old stuff is not like blooming. It can’t really grow anymore. there is a rotten stump sitting, and small things are crawling around. husband said LIME. and period. I wanted to bury it. youngster on the fence. and he is categorically against it.)))

Although lilac looks very beautiful and smells good.

So you can clean it here.

They began to remove the lilacs, and the old fence began to collapse. It turns out he was hanging on to the bushes. Now we need to wait for the fence to be repaired.)))

It was I who started the renovation, I wanted to change the wallpaper, I began to tear off the old ones, and the ceiling fell on me), or rather the wallpaper from the ceiling, it turns out that they were holding on to the wallpaper on the wall, I also had to do the ceiling.

Encyclopedia of Plants

The stinking basil belongs to the family called Ranunculaceae, in Latin the name of this plant sounds in the following way: Thalictrum foetidum L. Description of stinking cornflower Stinking cornflower is a perennial herbaceous plant, the height of which will fluctuate between fifteen and sixty-five centimeters.

http://www.asienda.ru

A well-groomed bush is not only a bright object landscape design, but also bears delicious fruits.

How beautiful lilac or jasmine blooms in spring and what it can be delicious jam from strawberries or black currants. It's almost a taste of childhood. But for fruit or decorative bushes you need to constantly monitor, trim, clean and sometimes dig up to allow the rest of the crops to fully develop. A completely reasonable question arises how to remove bush correctly, so that on next year it did not produce new growth. As when removing trees and stumps, they most often use manual method removal. It is the simplest, most accessible, understandable and cost-effective. Moreover, removing bushes is not such a large-scale undertaking as uprooting fruit trees, For example.

So, let's consider options for solving the problem different ways to make it easier to navigate when choosing what you need:

1. How to remove bushes from a site manually - First, you need to inspect the bush and evaluate the scale of the work to determine what type cutting tool It can be useful.

   If the plant is small, it will be enough hand saw, if the main branches are about s thick thumb hands, then it’s better to take a chainsaw. First, the largest branches and crown of the bush are cut off, then using a shovel you should dig around it and remove it along with the roots. It is necessary to remove all the roots so that next year there will be no annoying growth. The process of removing shrubs will be greatly facilitated if you first water the rhizome with a good pressure of water from a hose.

2. How to remove bushes from a site using a mechanized method? Heavily overgrown areas, where there is a lot of vegetation, are not entirely advisable to clear manually, and it will take quite a lot of time. In such a situation, it is best to use special equipment (tractor) or remove the bush special equipment- brush cutter. For uprooting, you can use a winch, which makes it much easier to pull large roots out of the ground.

   She will be an indispensable assistant on a small summer cottage or in the garden, where it is simply impossible for a tractor or excavator to enter. If there is a large volume of shrub vegetation, do not forget about the disposal of logging residues and wood waste. You can’t just throw them in the trash, and lighting a fire is not always a safe activity. That’s why it’s worth taking care of cleaning the area and removing leftovers in advance.

3. How to remove a lilac bush in the garden? In most cases of bush cleaning, it will be sufficient to cut down only the visible ground part. But some types of bushes give such abundant root shoots that sooner or later the process will have to be completed. Such plants include lilac. As a result of its vital activity, it produces many lateral roots, which are almost impossible to remove manually. If the bush is quite large, you can uproot the largest roots, chop the soil around it with a shovel and sprinkle with regular table salt, at the rate of 1 pack per square meter. True, the soil after such an operation will be unsuitable for growing other crops for some time. It is better to use a herbicide (for example, Roundup), which is excellent for clearing bushes. And next year it will be possible to dig up the territory and plant the most “fastidious crops” on it. Treatment chemical preparation It is also suitable in the case when you do not know how to remove the roots of shrubs, usually decorative ones. This event will not require much physical effort, and the area will be completely cleaned.

"Arborist" - a company with extensive experience in dealing with unnecessary green spaces. Any process performed by our specialists takes place in accordance with the schedule and all legislative norms. We also dispose of waste, which is an integral part of our work. If in order to make a decision you need to know how much it costs to cut down shrubs in your garden, call us, our consultants are always happy to answer all your questions and offer options for solving the situation.

"Arborist" separately provides the following services: removal of wood debris from the customer’s territory, purchase and removal of firewood for fruit and ordinary tree species from any site.

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Lilac is a shrub that is prone to growing when unfavorable factors appear. Root system plants are able to spread over considerable distances, releasing young shoots. Not all varieties of shrubs produce shoots, and an already invaded area can be cleaned without much difficulty. Exist different ways How to quickly and effectively get rid of lilac growth, every gardener can choose the most convenient one.

It is easier to deal with growth if you know why it appeared. Lilac profusely produces new shoots when exposed to unfavorable factors.

Poor planting site

Lilac actively produces shoots if the place of growth is uncomfortable for it and threatens with disease. This is how the plant tries to preserve itself if the mother bush dies.

Insufficient deepening of the root system

In shrubs that are not deep enough when planting, the surface roots suffer from a lack of moisture in the upper soil layer and begin to actively produce shoots. The solution to the problem is to deepen the roots. You just need to add soil to the area around the plant.

Different types of shrub damage

A slight injury to the trunk is enough for the bush to begin to actively produce shoots. When bark and wood are damaged, circulation is disrupted nutrients in tissues. The root system, trying to save the above-ground part, starts the process of rejuvenation of the plant by releasing numerous shoots.

What harm can it cause?

Uncontrollably growing lilacs can take over the entire area in a few years. Each year, lateral roots produce several offspring, which can appear at a distance of several tens of centimeters from the trunk.

A 50-year-old bush covers an area with a diameter of more than 10 m.

Gradually, the shoots begin to produce offspring, and the captured territory expands even further. It is impossible to use the captured area for either beds or garden plantings.

How to get rid of lilac growth on the site?

Some gardeners strive to completely remove lilacs from their plot, others want to leave them beautifully. flowering bush, they are not satisfied with just the growth. There are many ways to clean an area: using chemicals and folk remedies, removed manually.

Use of chemistry

For quick disposal Strong herbicides are used for lilac shoots. Tornado and Roundup will do. However, if the growth is severe, standard spraying with these chemicals is useless.

To be sure to get rid of thickets, treatment at the beginning of the growing season is carried out according to a special scheme:

1. The shoots are not sprayed, but coated with a brush so that the active substance penetrates the plant tissue faster and in greater concentration.
2. If the mother bush is large and its growth is abundant, then you will have to treat the shoots 2-3 times.
3. When the growth of young plants stops, it is advisable to cover the area around the bush with dark material and leave it until the next season.

If you want to get rid of thickets faster, you can use arboricides - chemicals that act on tree and shrub vegetation.

Arboricides are potent substances. It is necessary to strictly observe dosages and use chemical protective equipment.

Manual removal

Many gardeners use simple and old way eliminating overgrowth - uprooting the bush. This method is usually used if etching with chemicals is undesirable.

Algorithm of actions:

1. The trunks of the mother plant are sawed off.
2. Each shoot is cut off at the root.
3. Remove the topsoil to expose the roots.
4. Use a shovel to uproot large sections of the root system.
5. They take hold of the lateral root layers and pull them all out of the ground.

Folk remedies and recipes

If you don’t want to bother with a shovel, you can use effective folk remedies:

1. Cover the overgrown area with salt (1 kg per 1 m2). Pour boiling water over it. Cover with roofing felt or other dark material. Leave for a year or two.
2. Cover the ground on the site fresh manure. The procedure is carried out at the end of the growing season, the soil surface is covered with dark material for a year. Due to the saturation of the soil with organic matter, the plant will begin to actively grow instead of preparing for winter dormancy. The offspring will lose a lot of strength and die.
3. Sodium nitrate works similarly. It is also added to the soil in high concentration at the end of the growing season.

Set of preventive measures

Experienced gardeners share tips on how to avoid lilac overgrowth on your property.

With the arrival of warm spring days and the appearance of the first flowers in the garden, a magnificent lilac bush blooms. The riot of magnificent colors and fragrant flowers of the bush leaves no one indifferent. Almost every gardener has acquired this lush and fragrant shrub in their dacha.

But there is one big drawback in the appearance of lilacs on a personal plot. It belongs to those types of bushes and trees that, for whatever reason, sprout shoots. This growth begins to interfere not only with the mother bush, but also with surrounding plants.

Many gardeners are struggling to find an answer to the question: how to get rid of lilac growth on the site?

Why does growth occur?

There are a number of reasons why a lilac bush produces shoots and in order to get rid of new branches of shoots, you should understand what the problem is.

Poor planting site

The bush produces shoots if it is not comfortable or is sick. Thus, he tries to rejuvenate himself in the event of the death of the mother bush.

Insufficient deepening of the root system

The seedling was not planted correctly initially, that is, the roots were planted at an insufficient depth. The lilac roots, being on top, suffer from drying out of the soil surface, and if this is the only problem, the roots should be deepened. To do this, increase the layer of soil around the bush itself.

Different types of shrub damage

Even minor damage to the integrity of the bark of a lilac bush can lead to the germination of new shoots. When wood is damaged, a skew in the supply of nutrients is formed in the trunk, and the roots begin to rejuvenate the mother bush. Before removing lilacs from the site, or rather the shoots, you should carefully inspect the branches. Don't remove too much growth.

If the bush suffers from a disease, approximately 2-3 years after its onset, cracks and peeling of the wood of the bush can be observed.

This phenomenon is a harbinger of the fact that the bush begins to gradually die off and send out young shoots in order to preserve its appearance.

Fighting lilac bush growth

With coming spring work at their summer cottage, every gardener begins to think about how to grow lilac shoots. Conventional cutting of overgrowth with pruning shears does not give positive result. In the soil there are remnants of shoot roots, which new strength begin their growth, destroying everything in their path.

Sticking to certain advice, you can significantly reduce the young growth from the bush. You should not use a shovel to loosen the soil, but use a rake.

In order to find out how to get rid of lilacs on a personal plot or from its growth, you need to study in more detail two methods of control, and choose the most suitable way for myself. There is mechanical and herbicide control.

Mechanical

The most in an effective way How to get rid of lilac or its growth is considered mechanical. But you shouldn’t count on ease of work. This work must be carried out carefully and with great care.

As soon as the first branches of a lilac that has not yet matured become noticeable, you should cut them off as close to the base as possible. Each shoot should be dug out and cut off with a small spatula.

If the sprouts are very young, you can simply try to carefully pull them out by the roots. The remaining stumps after cutting down the lilac bush should be uprooted, otherwise new shoots will appear in huge numbers.

Using the second option, there is a high chance of removing the growth forever and preventing it from sprouting in the future. With this method mechanical struggle, the slate should be buried approximately 50 cm in the ground.

Herbicidal

Herbicide control is considered the most severe. Herbicides should be handled carefully. If you do not follow the instructions and be careful, you can destroy the lilac bush itself or the plants growing nearby.

Each gardener must decide how to remove lilacs or their shoots from their plot individually, taking into account all the pros and cons of one method or another.

Photo of lilac shoots