How to properly prune fruit bushes in the fall. Pruning fruit trees and shrubs in autumn

When caring for a garden plot, autumn pruning of trees is also an integral part of this process. After all, starting from spring, plants grow intensively, and throughout the entire sunny summer period a lot of extra branches grow on the trees.

In autumn, pruning is carried out to thin out the branches, so that the more necessary shoots will grow better.

If you refuse such pruning, your garden plot will have a neglected appearance, and what’s even worse, the yield will drop sharply.

Before touching upon the very topic of autumn pruning, let's talk about when it is best to carry out this procedure.

When to prune trees?

Many of you know from your school days that in winter period the plants “sleep”, that is, the movement of water and sap along the trunk and branches stops, and at the beginning of the autumn period they gradually begin to prepare for this. Therefore, it is advisable to prune trees in the fall.

But this does not mean at all that autumn pruning can be carried out in all latitudes. For example, for the southern regions this period is more favorable for pruning, but not for northern ones.

This can be explained by the fact that in the place where the cut was formed, with the onset of frost, the bark begins to freeze, and therefore the cut will gradually dry out.

It is possible that even the tree itself will die, although the opinions of professionals differ on this matter. If your seedling is only a few years old, then it is better not to carry out manipulations with pruning in the fall.

How to prune trees in autumn?

A more favorable period for autumn pruning is the end of October - November, but depending on climatic conditions your region, this period may vary slightly.

Young trees

In the case of young plants, the goal pursued is the formation of the crown.

Crown formation can be done using several methods:

• by shortening method
• thinning method

When shortening, we need to remove some part of the branch, but when thinning, the entire branch is cut off.

When using the shortening method, new buds located around the cut will begin to produce new shoots. But, what if you need it to reach your fruits? sunlight To make them more juicy and beautiful, use the thinning method.

The only condition that you need to adhere to is to give the seedlings time to get stronger, which takes several years.

If you find a branch that will interfere with others in the future, it must be carefully removed.

Old trees

In the case of an adult tree, annual pruning is not recommended, that is, in the fall, for old fruit trees, pruning should be carried out no more than once every two years, or even three years.

What is this connected with? ? And this is due to the fact that fruit-bearing buds become infertile over the years. There may not even be so few of them, they may even bear fruit, but a little later they will begin to crumble.

For very old fruit trees, rejuvenation pruning is necessary, that is, with this pruning it is necessary to prune branches that are four or more years old.

At the same time, one should also not forget that the remaining lower branches should be slightly thicker compared to the upper ones.

Often, in this situation, shoots that grow inside the crown or intertwine with each other are also removed, since such branches will only interfere with the rest.

In addition, the trees will have to spend more on them useful material and strength, which of course can be avoided.

Trimming fruit trees in the fall - this important stage gardening, which will provide correct height, will maintain health and rich fruit production garden plants. The procedure is equally necessary for both young and old trees. For gardeners who are faced with this need for the first time, the pruning procedure may seem quite complicated. But if you follow the recommendations, this stage of caring for fruit trees will not cause difficulties.

Some are even the most experienced gardeners People often wonder when exactly it is necessary to prune trees. The answer is quite simple - it all depends on the purpose for which this procedure will be carried out. Each seasonal pruning has its own advantages and intended purpose. Autumn pruning is often sanitary in nature., because during this procedure the tree is prepared for winter. In the fall, it is very important to remove old or dried branches from fruit trees, which can harbor insects and pests that can infect the trees with various diseases. Autumn pruning is often carried out before the first frost.

In early November, it is better to leave the trees alone and not carry out any operations. Since the country is located in a temperate climate zone, all procedures for preparing a tree for hibernation should be carried out maximum at the end of November, before the first frosts hit. And since frosts can appear completely unexpectedly, trees need to be pruned in advance.

Tree pruning in the fall is very important and must be done correctly.. Novice gardeners try to get rid of dry branches and branches unnecessary for the tree as quickly as possible, as a result, this leads to the fact that the trunk remains almost bare. As a result, every year the plant bears less and less fruit.

Pruning fruit trees in the fall is an important stage of gardening, which will ensure proper growth, maintain the health and rich fruit production of garden plants

Hacksaw and other tools for pruning trees in the garden

To make tree pruning not only convenient, but also in accordance with all the rules, you need to select the appropriate tool. The most suitable tool for this process is a pruner, with which you can get rid of excess branches on trees and bushes. For summer residents who take care of a fairly young garden, it is enough to have only this tool in their arsenal. Well, those who are going to trim trees and branches thicker than 50 cm cannot do without a garden saw or hacksaw.

Basic requirements for garden tools are quite simple - it must be very sharp so that the cuts are even and smooth. Besides cutting tool must be safe for the gardener himself. In order for a pruner or hacksaw to be comfortable to hold in your hand and perform pruning, it must be light in weight, but provide maximum load. Choose a tool that is not bulky and easy to use; this will provide easy access to branches at any height or distance.

A hacksaw is ideal for cutting thick branches. Some gardeners use a regular hacksaw, forgetting that such a tool is intended for “dead” wood. To trim living branches, you need to acquire a tool whose working surface is as gentle as possible on the tree. High-quality garden hacksaws have a height cutting teeth should be at least 5-8 mm with wide openings and sharp sharpening. This tool does an excellent job of cutting branches and does not get clogged with wood.

How to prune an apple tree in the fall (video)

Types of pruning garden trees in autumn

Every gardener has different goals when pruning trees. In other words, pruning can be of several types, the most common of which are:

• sanitary
• rejuvenating
• decorative

Sanitary

This type of pruning is carried out to remove old dry branches, as well as those parts of the tree that are affected by pests. You can do sanitary pruning only in the fall, but also at any time. season, but not in winter. On frosty days, the tree needs peace. After removing infected branches, the working tool must be treated with alcohol to prevent infection of other plants when working with this tool. When sanitary pruning, it is important to take into account the size and age of the tree, since very intensive work often leads to thickening of the crown.

Sanitary pruning is carried out to remove old dry branches, as well as those parts of the tree that are affected by pests

Decorative (molding)

Shaping pruning helps shape the crown and leaves of the tree. Thanks to this approach, it is possible to achieve a perfectly formed shape of the skeletal part of the trunk. Decorative pruning in a certain month also affects the further growth of branches. For example, if you do the procedure at the end of February, they will grow more intensively. If you choose the beginning of spring for the procedure, this will slow down growth.

Shaping pruning helps shape the crown and leaves of the tree.

Rejuvenating

With the help of rejuvenating pruning, you can renew the tree and give rise to new branches. If the length of the branches increases by 15-20 cm every year, they need to be pruned, thus awakening dormant and adventitious buds. It is better to rejuvenate the tree in September, February or early spring.

With the help of rejuvenating pruning, you can renew the tree and give rise to new branches.

Schemes for pruning fruit trees in the fall for beginners

Fruit trees have their own pruning characteristics. In what month should the procedure be performed? The right approach will ensure a rich harvest. It is better to prune apple trees in the fall, immediately after harvesting. This must be done very carefully so as not to accidentally remove “living” fruit-bearing branches. New young branches often look worse and begin to compete with old ones for moisture and nutrition. That's why when pruning you need to ensure optimal conditions for the future harvest.

Along with apple trees, for example, pears or plums, peaches, and other types of stone fruit trees are pruned. Since each tree has its own structure, it is impossible to say which branch exactly needs to be cut and which one to leave. It is necessary to observe which branches had the most fruits last year, and which ones only take away moisture and interfere with the development of the tree.

For fruit trees, you need to cut out those branches that are located “inside” the tree. If there are small shoots on the trunk that grow at a certain angle of an already regrown branch, they need to be removed. You also need to remove those branches that intertwine with each other, even if they are located far from each other, but are still intertwined and touching. You need to start with the driest and oldest branches; if the bark on it is cracked, it definitely needs to be removed. To avoid accidentally removing fruiting branches, be aware that all twigs, broken or cracked branches must be removed. Fruit trees need to be carefully inspected bottom part trunk - there may be young buds that will bear fruit next year. Using pruning shears or a hacksaw, trim the top of the tree - this will ensure the formation of a lush crown and a rich harvest next season.

When is the best time to prune trees (video)

Purpose and timing of autumn pruning of coniferous trees

In addition to fruit trees, the garden can also grow conifers. In the Moscow region they are often used for landscape design personal plots. To create optimal conditions for growth for a coniferous tree and ensure adaptation during the pruning period, it is necessary to choose the right time. It is better to do this at the end of autumn, when the temperature does not drop below +5°, but not in winter. Each type of coniferous plant has a period of active growth when resin is released from the trunk. At this time, it is better not to touch the plant and provide it with peace.

If there are several coniferous plants in the garden plot and there is an urgent need to give them decorative look, first you need to strengthen their stems and trunks. This can be done using special fertilizers. After the branches of the plant have strengthened and a strong structure has been created, they can be subjected to decorative pruning. Pruning coniferous trees they are done not only to give them a decorative and attractive appearance, but also to get rid of dry and old branches, which take a lot of energy and moisture from the plant.

Pruning of coniferous trees is done in order to get rid of dry and old branches, which take a lot of energy and moisture from the plant

Rules and optimal time for pruning fruit bushes in autumn

Fruit bushes on garden plots Belarus is provided with a rich harvest. Annual pruning of berry bushes allows you to maintain them in a productive state and healthy shape. Removing dry and old branches ensures the growth of young shoots and optimal penetration of sunlight into the bush. Don’t worry if you accidentally remove buds from old branches, because the newly grown shoots will produce more fruits and berries.

For a regular and rich harvest of berries in the garden, You must follow some rules when pruning:

• Bushes need to be trimmed regularly, but not at temperatures lower than -7°;
• You need to use only high-quality garden tools;
• when pruning, it is necessary to remove all dried and dead branches and fruits;
• Before work, wipe the surface of the tool with alcohol - this will eliminate the possibility of infecting plants and trees;
• when pruning branches growing in one direction, you can correctly form the crown of the bush;
• a correctly growing branch should extend from the trunk at an angle of 50-60°;
• when pruning apple, pear, plum, peach and apricot trees, you need to focus on pruning the upper part of the trunk;
• when pruning dry or diseased branches, you give the opportunity for young shoots to grow, which will give a rich harvest in the new season;
• After each pruning, check the condition of the branches for wounds or infections;
• monitor the condition of trees and bushes during pruning and use the knowledge gained for subsequent procedures.

Annual pruning of berry bushes allows you to maintain them in a productive state and healthy shape.

For what purpose and with what should I lubricate the sections after trimming?

After pruning dry branches, you need to cover up the resulting “wounds” and cut areas. Experienced gardeners use garden pitch, vegetable paints and other mixtures for these purposes. But this procedure is losing its popularity. This is explained by the fact that artificial covering of wounds complicates the process of natural healing of cuts on branches. Bare wood after cutting is rarely completely sterile, which means “covering up the wounds” can do more harm than good.

Fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs are mostly pruned in early spring. However, some types of pruning can and even should be done in the fall. Is it possible to prune apple, pear and other trees in the fall? fruit trees? How to prune grapes in autumn? When do you prune currants and gooseberries? We list the main types of pruning that are carried out in the fall.

Pruning apple, pear and other fruit trees in autumn

Formative pruning of fruit trees - apple, pear, cherry, plum - in amateur gardens is carried out in early spring. In industrial gardens there is too much work and it is difficult to complete it in short time. Therefore, pruning often begins in winter during thaws.

Why is this pruning order adopted? The fact is that when branches are removed from apple and pear trees, wide cuts are formed, which in winter become conductors of cold. The living tissues surrounding such a cut may be damaged in frost.

Still, some branches on apple and pear trees can be pruned in late summer and fall. When you harvest, pay attention to which branches are heavily shaded and without fruit. In order not to forget about them by spring, it is convenient to cut them down immediately, but not into a ring, but into a spike: a protective stump 15 cm high is left. Then in winter the cut will be located at a distance from the branch and the promising buds located on it, and in the spring the stump is cut down already, as usual, on the ring.

Autumn pruning of grapes and other fruit vines

Fruit and ornamental vines: grapes, actinidia, lemongrass and others - are pruned in the fall or only after the foliage has fully blossomed (in late spring - early summer).

They cannot be pruned in early spring. During sap flow, even single cuts and breaking of shoots are applied to climbing fruit plants damage. Cell sap leaks from damaged areas, and with it, plants lose not only water, but also physiologically active substances. This phenomenon is especially familiar to winegrowers; it is called. The intensity of crying depends on the weather. In some years, the plant can lose up to 15 liters of liquid.

IN middle lane Pruning of grapes is carried out in the fall before shelter; it is convenient to trim other woody vines at the same time. The grape pruning scheme is chosen at your discretion.

This is the simplest and most common pruning method in the middle zone. It makes it easy to shape grapes and cover them for the winter.

If you have chosen a fan pruning scheme, then first you need to shape a young seedling.

An improved method of autumn pruning of grapes in the middle zone is a horizontal cordon. To shape grapes this way, you need more experience and the plants will take up more space in the garden when shaped like a fan. But this grape pruning scheme allows you to increase the yield of many valuable varieties, promotes good ripening of the vine and favorable overwintering.

If you really love growing grapes and are willing to spend more time to get impressive results, then choose an arbor pruning scheme.

Gooseberries, currants, honeysuckle - pruning in autumn or spring?

Trimming berry bushes comes down mainly to removing old branches to the base. There are no wide cuts above the snow level through which frosty air could penetrate to the buds. Therefore, it doesn’t matter when to prune currants and gooseberries: in the spring, as many manuals recommend, or in the fall.

From the point of view of convenience, autumn pruning of currants, gooseberries, honeysuckle and other berry bushes is even preferable. The buds of berry bushes wake up very early. There is always a possibility that for some reason you will not have time to prune in time, before the sap begins to flow. Therefore, experienced gardeners usually try to prune honeysuckle, gooseberries and currants in the fall after the leaves fall.

Pruning of ordinary raspberries is carried out not in the fall, but in the summer immediately after harvesting. All two-year-old shoots that bear fruit are cut to the ground.

The ripening of the berries means that these shoots have finished their development and will die off in the fall anyway. But before this they only prevent new shoots from growing and gaining strength: they shade them and make it difficult to care for raspberry bushes. Still, if you did not cut off the old raspberry shoots on time, be sure to do it at least in the fall. Before sheltering, it is also advisable to carry out the first normalization of young shoots that will bear fruit next year. Leave about 40 best shoots per linear meter row, remove the rest. After the snow melts, when you tie the raspberries to the trellis, make another thinning, leaving 15-20 shoots per meter.

Remontant raspberries bear fruit almost before the snow, so pruning is carried out in the fall. There are two ways to trim. You can cut only two-year-old shoots or trim remontant raspberries fully. In the middle zone, the second pruning method is most common.

Should roses be pruned in the fall?

You need to form rose bushes in the spring, when you can see which buds have been preserved in order to count on them. But in the fall, you have to shorten some branches on the roses so that the bush fits under the shelter.

Pruning clematis in autumn

In group I clematis, pruning (Atragene group, or princelings) removes only diseased shoots that thicken the bush. In clematis of group II pruning (Lanuginoza group, Florida, Patence) the shoots are shortened by about a third before covering.

Clematis of the III pruning group (Jacman group, Integrfolia, Vititsela) are trimmed completely, leaving 3-5 cm above the soil level - as in the photo below.

Autumn pruning of mock orange bushes (garden jasmine)

It is advisable to renew the old mock orange bushes a little in the fall: remove weak shoots that thicken the crown and cut down 1-2 of the oldest thick branches to the base.

Autumn pruning of hydrangea

It is advisable to cut off hydrangea inflorescences (large-leaved, paniculate and tree-like) in the fall so that in winter the snow stuck to them does not break the branches.

Trim the inflorescence to the first pair of buds.

Pruning and trimming conifers

Autumn is a favorable time for cutting conifers.

In general, coniferous plants can be pruned at any time when the air temperature does not drop below +4°C. But in the fall it is more convenient: plants produce less resin, which sticks to tools and stains clothes. It is only important not to cut the crown too much: no more than 1/3 of the current growth is removed at a time.

When to prune in autumn

Fruit and ornamental trees and shrubs are pruned in the fall during and after leaf fall. You can start pruning around mid-October without waiting for the leaves to completely fall off. At the same time, there is no strictly defined time for finishing autumn pruning; it is dictated by common sense.

It is not advisable to continue any work in the garden, including autumn pruning, when heavy rains begin and the soil gets wet to a considerable depth. By trampling damp soil around trees and shrubs, you disrupt its structure, making it difficult for oxygen to reach the roots. If it is absolutely necessary to continue work despite bad weather, then place shields or boards under your feet so that the soil is not compacted so much.

The timing of autumn pruning of grapes, roses and other covering crops is chosen so that by the time of covering all work is completed.

Many novice gardeners mistakenly believe that there is no particular need to prune a tree in the fall, arguing that, they say, it “goes into hibernation anyway.” However, they are very mistaken; Pruning fruit trees in the fall is no less important than at any other time of the year, and why, let’s figure it out together.

Why is autumn tree pruning necessary?

Autumn pruning is mainly carried out in the form of sanitary pruning. It is necessary, first of all, to prevent insects and various pathogens from continuing their destructive activities in winter and spring after the plant awakens. To prevent this from happening, broken and diseased branches must be removed. And when air flows freely between healthy branches and they are well illuminated by direct rays winter sun, even the remaining pests and diseases after pruning will not have a chance to live. Also, do not forget about thinning pruning, which eliminates the breaking of branches in winter time caused by heavy snowfall and icing. The dense crown at this time of year can accumulate a large mass of snow and ice, which often breaks even thick branches. And here, as you yourself understand, there is no time for pests...

Features of pruning fruit trees in autumn

Autumn pruning, which includes sanitary, thinning and shaping, is mainly applied to pome crops such as apple trees, quince pears, but for stone fruit trees, only sanitary pruning is carried out. During the year, a fruit tree is in different states.
In the fall (and this is exactly our case), it sheds its leaves and prepares for winter, completing the annual cycle of its life activity. In this period nutrients, which have accumulated over the summer at the top of the crown, begin to leave it and concentrate below - in the trunk and further to the root. Some features of autumn pruning are also associated with this, after which, by removing thick branches from neglected or poorly formed trees, you eliminate the leakage and loss of sap after the tree awakens in the spring. The flow of juice mainly occurs when mature trees are pruned late in the spring; in apple trees this is more pronounced. Loss of sap often leads to weakening and disease of the tree; many gardeners themselves are mainly to blame for this, many of whom postpone pruning until the weather gets warmer and there is good, convenient access to the tree. Even more often, listen to the advice of inexperienced gardeners.

Procedure for pruning trees

First you need to decide what kind of pruning your tree needs. — autumn pruning of trees should begin from September until established frosts; - unlike in spring, when the tree is actively gaining strength and is very vulnerable, in autumn it tolerates pruning very well. Tree pruning is a job that requires care, so it is better to divide it into main stages and perform it in the following order:

Important!

do not use blunt tools: they can leave torn edges that take a long time to heal; when pruning fruit trees in the fall, leave as many horizontal branches as possible, because they are the most fruit-bearing; approach each tree individually and thoughtfully. If you do not have enough free time to trim trees in your garden or feel unsure about this important procedure, you can contact the company “Your Garden 24”. We employ specialists with solid experience and extensive experience who will relieve you of unnecessary worries and professionally prepare your fruit trees for a long, cold winter.

This procedure helps plants better tolerate winter cold. Autumn pruning is usually carried out before the first night frost. The period when the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off means the approach of sleep and rest for your garden. And for the trees to overwinter in comfortable conditions, the gardener will have to work hard.

Fall pruning goals

In autumn, fruit trees are pruned in two ways: shortening and thinning. This is done not only to ensure the best functioning of your garden. The fact is that an abundance of snow can break tree branches. Therefore, in spring and summer you will have to treat your green spaces. Accordingly, you will have to forget about the harvest.

Pruning garden plants in the fall is also of a sanitary nature. By removing dried and diseased branches, you help improve the health of your fruit crops.

Features of pruning an apple tree

In autumn, you need to remove those branches that are old, injured, diseased or have signs of rotting. Since the plant is at rest at this time, this procedure does absolutely no harm to it.

Approximate plan for autumn pruning of an apple tree:

• first you need to remove large branches that are injured or dry;
• of the branches growing very close to each other, the strongest should be left and the rest removed;
• cut off branches growing at an acute angle;
• the places of cuts must be covered with paint on drying oil or with garden varnish, while dry branches are treated immediately, and young ones - after 24 hours;
• branches that have been cut must be destroyed.

If the apple tree is young, then only light pruning is done with pruning shears, and the growth of this year should be shortened by ¼ of the current year's growth. After this, these specimens are not pruned for 3–5 years, cutting off only dried and injured branches. However, this is only if the tree does not grow in height too quickly.

Those apple trees that are 5–6 years old require medium-intensity pruning - strong branches are shortened by 1/3 of their length. Old apple trees are pruned for rejuvenation in 3 stages. So, in the first year you need to remove approximately 1/3 of all old branches, in the second year another 1/3 of the old branches, and the remaining 1/3 after another 1 year. It is worth considering that pruning shears cannot cope with mature powerful branches; you cannot do without a saw.

We must also remember that the tools used to trim branches must be very sharp and should be disinfected.

Methods and schemes for pruning fruit trees

There are the following basic rules for pruning trees:

• Be sure to cut off those branches that grow towards the inside of the crown.
• Remove secondary branches to strengthen the main ones.
• If the crown is too branched, then you need to remove those shoots that thicken it.
• Annual shoots are also removed.
• Cut off branches growing downwards.
• Wild shoots that extend from the rootstock must be pruned.
• The central trunk is pruned exclusively in dwarf fruit varieties; all other fruit-bearing trees cannot be pruned in this way.

Each plant requires an exclusively individual approach. Therefore, before starting work, you should carefully examine it and determine what type of pruning it needs.

Rejuvenating pruning is performed only for those trees that have already bear fruit for several years. Here only long branches are shortened. They will no longer grow too much; this will form the crown correctly and improve the health of the tree as a whole. After all, very long branches usually have dried areas. It is important that in the spring the accessory buds are activated.

Formative - here comes the modeling of external outlines. The load on the main branches that make up the “skeleton” of the plant is relieved. This will further help the tree grow evenly. Work with the crown begins five years after planting the seedling. This pruning is carried out in stages, year after year. The crown is formed in several tiers, the distance between which should be at least half a meter. The lower tier consists of the thickest branches, located at an angle of forty-five degrees. Shoots that grow perpendicular to the main, skeletal branches are completely removed. Those shoots that prevent others from growing and developing are removed by one third.

Regulatory – here the main objective maintain the balance of the finished, formed crown. Remove excess young branches that block sunlight from others. Harmonize growth and productivity. Focus not only on fruitfulness, but also on wood renewal.

Restorative - when a tree is sick, it is necessary to support it not only with fertilizing, but also with proper pruning. Correct the crown so as to restore the uniformity of its development, adjust the size. This is achieved by controlling new shoots that grow, first of all. They enhance the illumination of all main skeletal branches. The result is that the crown returns to its original harmonious state before it was damaged. Gets the opportunity to actively grow again and bear fruit.

Treatment of trees after pruning

The dramatic comparison of the cut site with a wound is by no means an artistic exaggeration. Even though the stump left behind does not ooze blood, this does not mean that the tree remains invulnerable after some areas have been cut off. The saw cut is susceptible to freezing and infection. In the end, it simply lowers the plant’s immunity to diseases from which it would not suffer under normal circumstances.

The processing of the saw cut largely depends on its size. If the branch you cut was less than three centimeters in diameter, then most likely the tree will cope with restoration on its own. Enough to disinfect required area and leave the plant alone. Saw cuts whose diameter exceeds three centimeters are refined as follows:

• Immediately after trimming, all roughness, burrs and other protruding parts must be removed from the cut. It is important that the cut is smooth and neat. A garden knife is ideal for this operation;
• After adjusting the cut, you need to apply a disinfectant solution to its surface, which will repel potential pests. The solution is distributed using an ordinary brush;
• The solution takes time to harden, so after applying it, you should leave the tree for several days until the substance dries completely.