Making an axe. How to make a good ax handle for an ax - step-by-step instructions and drawings

An ax is one of the most famous and accessible tools in the arsenal of most summer residents and professional craftsmen. If you use it correctly, you can simplify many work processes, resulting in excellent results. You can not only buy an ax ready-made in a specialized store, but also make it at home. This will not take much time, effort and Money. Today we will look in detail at how to properly make an ax handle with your own hands.

How to select and prepare wood?

Many jobs are impossible without a well-sharpened and strong axe. This tool is often needed in both household and larger-scale work. In retail outlets you can find many different models there are quite a lot of such tools, because there are quite a lot of types of axes themselves. Pick up perfect option possible to suit any requirement.

But there are also cases when the consumer could not find for himself suitable tool. Many people in such situations find a simple way out - they make an ax themselves. For a tool to be of high quality, reliable and durable, it must consist of good elements. So, to create an ax handle, it is very important to choose the right suitable material.

Not every type of wood is suitable for creating this ax part. It is believed that a true master will go around the entire forest before he finds the very tree from which he can make an axe. In most cases, this element of the ax is constructed from the root section of a birch tree, and even better, if you use the growths that are present on its trunk. These parts are distinguished by a very dense and curled structure.

Birch is not the only tree that can produce good ax handle. Instead, it is permissible to turn to trees such as oak, maple, acacia, ash and others deciduous trees related to hard rocks. According to experienced craftsmen, beech, oak, larch, walnut and elm make the most reliable, comfortable and durable handles High Quality. But it’s not enough to find the ideal material for making an axe. It is still necessary to properly prepare it for the upcoming work.

The workpieces must be thoroughly dried. This is done only under natural conditions, and it often takes a lot of time - on average 3-4 years, and better yet longer (5 years will be enough). Wood should be dried exclusively in a dark and dry place where good ventilation. To the space where it will be prepared natural material, precipitation, dampness and water should not penetrate. Otherwise, such drying simply won’t do any good, and you won’t be able to make a good axe.

How to make a template?

If you have the material already prepared and dried to the required degree, then you should move on to the next stage of creating an ax handle. Next, you will need to competently make a convenient template, which will be an excellent assistant in further work.

Here it is important to take into account the fact that there are quite strict standards regulating the shape of the ax based on the main type of device. Thus, light tools, the weight of which usually ranges from 0.8 to 1 kg, are usually made with a handle having a length of 0.4-0.6 m. As for more “serious” heavy axes, there is a length of 0.55-0.65 m. We must also take into account the fact that everything existing species axes are divided according to their main functionality.

So, the following types of these tools are distinguished:

• carpentry;
• lumberjack;
• knotty;
• cleaver;
• butcher's

Before you start designing such a tool yourself, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself with detailed drawings of different models of handles.

When making a template, a number of important features should be taken into account.

• So that during the work the ax handle does not slip out and does not jump out of the hands at the moment of swing, its “tail” must be made a little wider than the gripping point.
• When making an ax for a cleaver, you need to make a part 0.75-0.95 m long. Carpentry tools are made short. Their handle generally reaches 0.5 m.
• Another 8-10 cm should be added to the handle length parameter for the butt for allowance. It will be possible to cut it off after installing the butt. It is very important to ensure that the tree does not begin to split at this moment.

The template with its correct shape and all dimensions will need to be applied to paper or cardboard.

Step-by-step manufacturing instructions

It is not difficult to prepare an ax handle with your own hands. To do this, you need to adhere to a not very complex technology for carrying out work. Let's get acquainted with it:

• mark the workpiece using a template;
• after this it can be carefully cut out with a jigsaw or other similar tool;
• Next, the prepared part will need to be turned on a special machine and polished.

There are a number important rules, which must be adhered to as work progresses.

• Processing the fixing area of ​​the ax must be done as carefully and carefully as possible, so as not to accidentally remove excess part of the wood. Otherwise, the butt simply will not be able to be firmly fixed in place. It is better to periodically try the handle against the eye, so that in the end you get a small margin (no more than 2 cm).
• You should not use a file while finishing the part. This will lead to inevitable loosening of the wood. Because of this, it will be more difficult to work with him further. It is better to use fine abrasive sandpaper and a grinder rather than a file. You will need to move the tool along the wood fibers.
• It is necessary to give the final, correct and beautiful shape to the fastening area of ​​the handle, taking into account the angle of the butt attachment. As for the cleaver, the specified angle for it should be approximately 85 degrees. For a standard ax – 75 degrees.

At self-production the ax must be used very carefully. There's no need to rush. If desired, you can decorate the handle of the tool with patterns and carved decorations (for example, you can wrap it with jute cord - it will hold the blade more securely). When the ax handle is ready, you will need to correctly install the cutting part on it.

Let's look at how this should be done.

• Adjust the top of the piece to the eye of the blade. Remove the excess wood with a knife. Be careful.
• On the handle, set horizontally, the cutting part should be placed on top. Then you need to make a mark on the handle with a pencil until it will be driven in. Divide the segment and make another mark.
• Secure the handle in a vertical position using a vice. The wide part should be at the top. Prepare a hacksaw for metal. Make a cut exactly to the second wedge mark.

• At a specialized retail outlet, pick up a wedge made of metal or make it yourself from wood.
• Place the board on a separate tabletop. Point the blade at it. Place it upside down. Place the prepared ax handle over this part, tapping it on the board. Now turn the tool over and tap the handle on the board. The part will continue to be seated. These steps should be repeated many times. As a result, you will be able to thoroughly drive the ax into the eye.
• Then place the part in a vertical position. Install a wedge into the cut. Hammer it in with a mallet. Saw off any excess protruding parts

How to protect against rotting?

The wood from which the ax handle is made, like other similar materials, is susceptible to rotting. Such problems always arise over time or in inappropriate storage conditions for the instrument. It is important to take care of your homemade ax in advance, protecting it from rotting. It is strongly not recommended to use compositions such as varnishes or paints to protect wooden handles. The ban on the use of such compounds is due to the fact that their presence on the handle can lead to it slipping out of the hands during certain work. The reason for this is the glossy smooth texture.

The optimal solution other suitable impregnations will be available to protect the ax from rotting. You can coat the handle with linseed oil or good old linseed oil. There are other highly effective antiseptics that will extend the service life natural wood. But we must take into account that they will need to be applied periodically. Don't forget this procedure.

Some craftsmen add red pigment to antiseptic protective products. People turn to such tricks not at all to make the instrument more interesting. appearance. After this coating, the ax will be much easier to find in the grass, because its color will become brighter.

Please note that the ax handle should be made so that its cross-section has a characteristic oval shape. Only by observing this condition, you can successfully hold it without straining your hand too much. In this case, blows with an ax will be more accurate and easier. It is recommended to make wood blanks for creating an ax handle in late autumn. It is during this period that the movement of sap is reduced to a minimum (almost stops), which means that the tree becomes, as it were, dehydrated.

Many inexperienced craftsmen neglect drying wood to build an axe. As a result, this ends up with the handle changing in size, and the metal part with the butt on it holds very poorly. It is permissible to use undried material only in special situations, when the handle needs to be built urgently, and this spare part is made as a temporary one.

When making a brand new ax handle yourself, you need to draw up a detailed drawing/template of the future tool. If you have a very convenient old ax in your arsenal, then you can remove all parameters from it. This will make it much easier and more convenient. Do not rush to turn the cutting edge of the tool. First you need to make sure the metal is sufficiently hard. If it turns out to be too soft, then it will need to be additionally hardened under the influence of high temperatures.

It is permissible to begin sharpening the ax blade only after installing it on the ax handle.

It is very important to use a ready-made ax (both homemade and store-bought) correctly. Experienced craftsmen It is strongly recommended not to try to cut various metal parts with such a device. Even if you plan to cut wood, it is better to make sure that there are no solid particles inside that could harm the tool.

It is strongly recommended not to throw the finished tool onto hard surfaces, especially from a great height. It is not recommended to leave the ax in the open air. Precipitation or aggressive sunlight can negatively affect the quality wooden part. Keep this tool in a dark and dry place. Only under this condition will the ax serve you for many years.

Axes are indispensable tools for working in dachas, vegetable gardens, when going on a picnic, etc. How to make an ax that is easy to use? There are many answers to this question technical solutions. Choice specific solution depends on the tasks that the tool must solve. IN Lately There was a demand for a battle ax from historical reenactors. Different tasks for this tool require different approaches for their manufacture. Below, the emphasis will be placed not on making an ax from scratch, but on remaking common models and creating a convenient ax to suit your hand.

An ax is one of the most important tools on suburban area. It can be made completely from scratch, or you can update an old tool.

Axes: types and differences

An ax is one of the most ancient human tools, having many varieties. Many archaeological finds indicate that the ax was an integral tool and weapon of man.

They performed a huge amount of work: cutting down trees, scraping out dense animal skins, trimming wood and, of course, killing their own kind. With the development of humanity, axes began to evolve. Their development followed the directions of their activities; they began to have narrow “specifics”. Today there are a huge number of varieties of axes, however, we will focus on the most common types:

1. Plotnitsky. Today this species is the most widespread. This is due to the fact that up to 90% of all tasks can be completed with such a tool. possible works. The weight of such products can vary from 800 grams to 2 kg. The most common axes weighing about 1.5 kg. They are comfortable cutting down small trees, trimming logs, butchering animal carcasses... Besides everything else, this type of tool is most often produced by various enterprises, which significantly reduces its cost.
2. Taiga axe. This is a rather heavy ax (about 1.0-1.2 kg), a type of cleaver. The difference is the long (about 0.5 meter) handle. The main purpose is felling and cutting of wood. It is very popular among hunters, fishermen, tourists, geologists, etc. You can easily make a taiga ax out of a carpenter's axe.
3. Cleaver. The cross-sectional shape of such a tool is a triangular wedge. It is designed for cutting wood. Quite heavy (about 2 kg).
4. Battle axes are relatively light (about 0.5-0.8 kg) axes that are attached to a long shaft (handle) of 0.5 m or more. Thanks to historical clubs, there is a demand for them. There are several varieties of such products: two-handed/one-handed, double-sided. Today they are made to order, and most often carpenter's axes are converted into antique battle axes.
5. Various small-sized tourist hatchets. These are very dubious devices with short and not always comfortable handles. They are problematic for felling and cutting wood thicker than 30 cm in diameter, and in addition, most companies (including branded ones, such as Fiskars) make plastic axes, which in case of breakage are almost impossible to replace. Some manufacturers (mainly Chinese) make the handle disproportionate to the hand of the average person, which leads to hand fatigue after 5-7 minutes of work. To top it all off, the light weight of the ax itself (up to 0.8 kg) requires significant physical effort during operation. Such products can often be found in stores, they are often advertised, but purchasing them is not recommended due to low rate ease of use.
6. Stone axes. These are homemade products made from stone using “ancient” technologies. Practiced among bushcrafters or simply lovers of antiques. They can be easily made from scrap materials with your own hands if you have silicon at your disposal.

In addition to their purpose, all types have their own design differences:

1. Main constructive difference carpenter's ax is that the toe has the same shape and size as the heel. If you roughly draw a line from the middle of the butt width to the middle (height) of the blade, then both parts will be symmetrical. The toe and heel are rounded at a certain angle (often the angles do not match between different models and manufacturers). This design is convenient for “fine” work with logs. For convenience, the handle (axe) is made relatively short.
2. The toe and blade of the cleaver usually form a right angle (this is also true for the taiga one). This solution allows you to split wood without getting stuck in it. For felling and cutting large logs, the splitting axes are made quite wide. This increases their weight and makes them untransportable on long, non-transportable journeys.
3. The main difference between a taiga ax and a cleaver is weight. To reduce it, “taiga” ones are made narrower in cross-section, and in addition, they try to “cut off” all unnecessary metal. This is how a cut is made from the heel to the beginning of the butt along an arc.
4. Battle axes have a low and narrow (in cross-section) blade. Often with reverse side there is a thorn. The butt is also made narrow.

Selecting and remaking an ax

Before purchasing a tool, you should clearly define the tasks that the ax will solve.

Even if the desired type is not available in stores, you can always make it yourself by purchasing and remaking a carpenter’s axe.

You should start by choosing a carpenter's axe. The first thing that needs to be determined is the steel from which it is made. Today, Damascus steel is considered the “coolest”; products from it are made by both private blacksmiths and some companies.

Domestic manufacturers most often use 65G steel to manufacture their products. It is a fairly hard (about 55 Rockwell) spring steel that performs well in woodworking work. As mentioned above, almost 90% of all axes are made for carpentry.

Choosing an ax for a carpenter is not difficult. The first thing to do is decide on the mass. For precise and “fine” finishing work, you need to take an ax of about 0.5 kg, for rougher ones - about 1.5 kg.

It is important to remember that the handle of a purchased ax is made from a factory and in 99% of cases it will be uncomfortable. How to make an ax handle will be discussed below.

If you need a taiga ax, but it’s not on sale, then it’s quite easy to convert a carpenter’s ax into the desired design. To do this, you should carefully select the ax by weight. Since excess metal will be cut off during reworking, the weight of the ax will accordingly decrease. The acceptable weight of a taiga is 1-1.2 kg (without an ax). Therefore, to achieve such indicators, you should take a carpenter’s weight of about 1.3-1.5 kg. To remake a carpenter's tool, you need to cut the toe so that it forms an almost right angle with the blade. Also, to make it easier, all the metal under the heel is cut off.

To do this, you need to apply a marking - an arc from the lower end of the butt to the heel. If the cut is made in a straight butt-heel direction, this will worsen the strength of the axe.

You can cut metal with a grinder, but it is important to constantly water the cut areas with water to cool.

Otherwise, there is a very high probability of overheating the blade, which will significantly reduce hardness and strength.

In a similar way, carpenter's axes are used to make battle axes.

When the ax is ready, you should make an ax handle and connect them.

How to make an ax handle

The most convenient are curved axes with an oval cross-section. This shape allows you not to strain your hand when working, which will allow your hand not to get tired. For different types axes differ only in the size of the bend and the length.

For taiga - the length should be from 0.5 to 1 m, the bend should be such that the lower end of the ax is in line with the middle of the blade and the toe. Carpenter's ones have a short (up to 0.5 m) handle, which has a small bend angle. Battle axes are mounted on a long and almost even ax handle. The section is selected based on the hole in the butt of the axe. Despite the differences in the sizes and shapes of the handles, the technology for their manufacture is almost the same.

To make an ax handle, you need to select a workpiece of the required size. This could be a board or a log. Next, markings are applied and all excess is cut off, after which it is thoroughly sanded sandpaper and coated with varnish. On the side where the ax is attached, cuts are made along the cross-section in the made ax handle to drive in spacer wedges. After which the ax is placed on the ax handle and pushed apart with wedges.

Owners of a country estate are often interested in the question of how to make an ax with their own hands. This tool is necessary in any household - it is used both for splitting firewood and for constructing outbuildings. But not all commercially available tools work well and are reliable. And some of them can even be dangerous during operation.

An ax is necessary for splitting firewood and for constructing outbuildings.

Most owners of their own country houses prefer to do everything with their own hands, including the construction of buildings and many tools necessary for the household. Homemade items are often much more reliable and convenient than those sold in stores.

How to make an ax with your own hands

To make an axe, you need to act in a certain order. The first step is to make the ax handle.

The ax handle is the handle of the tool. The performance will depend on its length and especially its shape. A simple stick with round- holding it is uncomfortable, the hand is too tense and will quickly get tired. It would be more practical to make an ax handle of a slightly curved shape, with an oval cross-section and several straight sections. Its tail should be made wider and tilted down. This makes it possible to more securely hold the ax in your hands while working.

Step-by-step production of an ax handle:

It is better to use maple wood to make an ax handle.

1. How to select and prepare material.

To make a durable part for an ax, it is better to take birch, oak, maple or ash. Traditionally, wood for ax handles is harvested in the autumn, even before frost sets in. The selected logs should be stored for drying in the attic, in a dry place without light. The blanks are stored in this way for at least a year, and experts recommend drying such wood for up to five years.

If, while chopping wood, the ax handle suddenly breaks, a temporary version made from undried wood can also help out. Fresh wood will help if you need to chop firewood urgently, but after a while it dries out. After the handle decreases in volume, it begins to “walk” freely in the eye of the ax and is no longer suitable for work.

2. How to make a template

For ease of use, you can make a template. Cardboard and thick paper are suitable for it. With its help, the contours of the designed part are transferred to the surface of the material, after which it is easier to manufacture the tool with the dimensions required. If you already have an ax with a good, comfortable handle and want to make a spare one in case this one breaks, you can use this as a sample. Press the handle of the tool onto a sheet of cardboard and trace it with a pencil. Then the template is cut along the contour with scissors.

3. How to make a block blank

For the preparation you will need dry material. You need to cut a block out of it, movements are made along the fibers. The length for the workpiece should be 10 cm larger size, defined for finished product. Width of the front part of the workpiece intended for the device in the eye metal part, should be several millimeters larger than it.

A template is placed on both sides of the block and the contours are transferred to the wood. The template is located in the following way: an allowance of 1 cm is left at the front of the block, about ninety millimeters at the tail. An allowance is required in the shank so that the handle does not split when inserting the blade. After the tool is ready and assembled, the allowance is cut off.

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How to carve an ax handle

To bring the ax handle to the right sizes, transverse cuts are made in the upper and lower parts of the block. Choose the depth so that the bottom of the cut does not reach the contour intended for the ax handle by about 2-3 mm. Excess wood is chipped off along the cuts using a chisel. Then sawing with a rasp is carried out right up to the contour line. It can also be used to round corners, bends, and transitions of a wooden part. For final sanding use sandpaper.

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Treatment with special compounds

The wood for the ax must be impregnated with drying oil.

When making an ax yourself, you need to provide wood good impregnation waterproof compounds. Among them the best are considered linseed oil and drying oil. The ax handle is coated with any of these compositions in several layers, drying each one well before applying the next. Apply the oil until the surface stops absorbing it.

Oil paints and varnishes are not recommended for coating the ax - this makes it slippery. If you want to leave bright marks on the handle so that an ax thrown into the grass is clearly visible, mix a little dye into the drying oil. It is better to use red, yellow or orange dye.

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How to choose a metal sheet

It is unlikely that anyone will be able to make their own houses metal sheet, equipped with an eyelet. It is better to buy it ready-made. When purchasing material, you should pay attention to the following points:

• the eyelet should have a cone-shaped shape;
• the steel should ideally be marked with GOST;
• inspect the blade for dents, bends, or nicks;
• the ends of the butt should be perpendicular to the blade.

The eyelet of the blade must correspond to the cross-section of the ax handle.

Draw a longitudinal center line on the end of the ax and another perpendicular to it. Cut a groove along the longitudinal contour to the depth of the eye. The slot is made to make it more convenient to wedge the ax handle. After this, place the butt against the end. Take the center lines as a guide and draw the outline of the eye.

Now take a knife or plane and cut the seating part of the part so that it follows the shape of the eye. The ax handle should extend slightly beyond it - about a centimeter.

Place the iron part on the wooden part, helping with a hammer. Hammer blows should be applied as carefully as possible to prevent cracking of the wood. When the end finally protrudes beyond the edge of the butt, you need to check how firmly the blade is seated. It should fit tightly, without slipping.

Hi all! This summer I went on a 5-week trek in the Alps with some friends. The time spent left a lot of positive impressions. But during this trip I discovered that I had forgotten one very important tool - an axe. After have a long day After spending time in the mountains, it’s nice to sit by the fire and drink beer. But in order to start a fire without an ax, we had to spend a lot of time looking for small branches that could be broken by hand.

Therefore, as soon as I arrived home, I had the idea to make a tourist hatchet, in which, like a knife, a saw is hidden and there is a beer opener.

In this master class I will tell you how you can make such an ax yourself.

Ax design

The design of this ax consists of three parts.

Ax blade

The shape of the blade was borrowed from the tomahawk, an ax used by Native Americans and European colonists. But you can change its shape by adding some spikes or a hammer on the butt. The ax blade will be glued to the handle and secured with rivets.

Opener

First, as an opener, I wanted to make a suitable hole in the blade. As a result of test drilling, it was found that a regular drill It's impossible to make a hole, so I changed the type of opener. Both options can be seen in the image. New type will be made in the form of a specially shaped hook.

Saw

I wanted the ax to come with a saw and thought it would be nice if it could be hidden like a jackknife. From the handle and it can be unfolded using the finger groove. The saw will be hidden between two pads. The shape of the metal part of the handle will allow the saw to be locked in both open and folded positions.

Once the design was chosen, I tried it on a circular saw blade to get the dimensions to fit.

Materials and tools

This ax is made from a used circular saw and hardwood that I had. I only had to purchase a folding saw blade. It was already hardened, so it did not need heat treatment.

Materials:

• Old circular saw blade.
• Hardwood timber (approximately 50 x 40 x 300 mm).
• Epoxy resin.
• Large nails for use as rivets.
• Folding saw blade (I used 200mm).
• Bolt, nut and washer.

Tools:

• Angle grinder (don't forget about safety equipment!).
• Rasp.
• File.
• Sandpaper.
• Drill.

Let's make sparks!

I transferred the outline of the ax and the metal part of the handle onto circular saw and cut them out using an angle grinder with a thin cutting wheel. Then using grinding wheel, corner grinding machine and files I completed the formation of the elements. The final shape of the metal part of the handle can be given later.

Making the handle

You can glue the template to wooden blank and cut out two overlays. I took advantage of mine milling machine with CNC.

Drilling hardened steel

I didn't have a carbide metal drill, so I wasn't sure how the process would work with a hardened axe. I came across a video where it was said that you can use a sharpened concrete drill bit to drill hardened metal. That's what I did, and everything worked out pretty well.

Adding an opener

This is probably the most irreplaceable part of the ax! Whenever I go camping, my friends and I usually have a couple of beers around the campfire in the evening. Opening them with stones and tree branches is very inconvenient. So I thought this detail would come in handy. I transferred the outline of a regular bottle opener onto the ax blade and cut a recess into it. Works great :)

Drilling the handle

Next, I drilled holes in the handle and checked that everything fit. Metal part The handle should perform the function of a spring that will fix the saw blade. If it is too elastic, it can be made thinner. First I used the metal part of the handle as a template to make the holes. Then I fastened the two pads together with clamps and then drilled them out. through hole. This way all the corresponding holes were in one line.

To connect the parts of the ax without gluing, I used bolts. This way you can check whether all the parts of the ax fit and whether the saw folds correctly.

Blade sharpening

After the outline of the blade was drawn out, I used an angle grinder with grinding disc for rough processing. Then, for finer work, a file and grinding machine(use water to cool the blade). The final sharpening was done using the grinding wheel of a sharpening machine.

I'm not an expert at sharpening an ax blade, so you can do this another way.

The ax will primarily be used to split wood into smaller pieces, so I did a little testing of its functionality.

Gluing and riveting