Summer cottage work in March – we’re starting a new season! March concerns of a gardener Dacha in March April.

March

In the month of the spring equinox, you need to carry out the main work of pruning trees and shrubs and start sowing seedlings of flowers and vegetables.

Time for sowing root crops and applying organic fertilizers. Digging, loosening and mulching the soil, and arranging the beds. Engage in the destruction of pests, performing formative, regulating and sanitary pruning of fruit and ornamental trees and bushes.

from March 3 to 5 - new moon, exact time- March 4, 22:46. It is better not to carry out any work during the new moon; on the days before and after, you can protect the garden from pests, as well as perform sanitary pruning of trees and shrubs.

from March 6 to March 17 - waxing moon. A good time for sowing seedlings and planting green crops, leafy vegetables, annual flowers, tree and shrub seedlings. At this time, spring sowing of perennials that have undergone winter stratification is possible. Spring grafting of plants works well. Fertilizing with mineral fertilizers is preferable; rejuvenating and restorative pruning of the garden is possible.

from March 18 to March 20 - full moon, exact time - March 19, 20:10. During this period, it is better to limit yourself to loosening and mulching the soil.

1 PREPARATION OF BEDS

Now everything melts during the day, and by evening it is covered with an ice crust. In the morning, you can sprinkle the snow with ash or clear it, cover the beds with film or agrofibre. It is especially important to clear and cover the radish area.

2 SOWING COLD-TOlerant VEGETABLES

You can sow carrots, parsley, dill, and onions as soon as the snow melts. After a week or two you can sow beets. Don't waste time, especially if there is steady warming.

3 SOWING RADISH

Radishes are sown sparsely, at a distance of at least 5 cm, so as not to thin out later. Buy now modern varieties. They have less voids, less bitterness, and are resistant to bolting.

4 SOWING WARMTH-LOVING VEGETABLES

Sow tomatoes, peppers and eggplants in cassettes or adsorbent tablets. Sowing should be done after March 8 if you do not have a greenhouse. Otherwise you will end up with overgrown plants.

5 PREPARATION OF CABBAGE SEEDLINGS

Sow early, mid and late varieties. When seedlings appear, the temperature is reduced so that the seedlings do not stretch out.

6 TREATMENT OF TREES

Cover trunks damaged by rodents with garden varnish. If the bark has been gnawed around the trunk, the tree can be cured by grafting with a bridge. A piece of bark is cut out from a healthy branch, inserted into the wound, covered with garden varnish and tied with tape. Usually, after 2-3 months, the wounds on the tree heal. It is also possible to graft with a replanted rootstock or seedlings on the bark above the damage zone.

7 SPROUTING POTATOES

At the end of the month, place the potatoes for germination in a room with high temperature and humidity. This procedure contributes to the crop’s resistance to unfavorable conditions and to obtaining a harvest 15-20 days earlier than from unsprouted tubers.

8 SOWING FLOWERS

In the second half of March, annuals are sown for seedlings: snapdragons, fragrant tobacco, marigolds, zinnias, petunias, balsam, lobelias. Corms of gladioli and montbretia can be placed in a warm room for germination.

9 PLANTING CURRANTS

1. You can plant currants immediately after the soil freezes. The soil should be well loosened, without perennial weeds. Planting pits prepare in advance so that the earth has time to settle.
2. The pit is made 35-40 cm deep and 50-60 cm wide. Upper fertile layer soil is placed on one side of the pit, and the bottom one is mixed with a bucket of humus and matchbox nitroammofoski.
3. The hole is filled with 3L of fertile soil mixed with fertilizers. The roots are distributed on the soil surface and covered with soil from the top layer.
4. After planting, the soil around the currant seedling is compacted slightly and then watered at the rate of one bucket per bush.

10 CARE OF PERENNIALS

When the snow melts, cut the old stems and leaves of perennials down to the ground if you did not do this in the fall. The same needs to be done with coastal plants. If the ice on the pond has already melted, collect all plant sediments from the surface of the water and the bottom, and then turn on the stream pump or aerator to enrich the water with oxygen.

11 SOWING ROOT PARSLEY

This is a fairly late crop, and it takes a long time to wait for germination. If you haven't sowed parsley before winter, do so. in early spring, planting it under film or agrofibre. A month later, when shoots appear, thin out, leaving 3-4 cm between plants. Care comes down to loosening and watering. If desired, the leaves can be cut for greens. The root crops are harvested in October.

12 WORK IN THE BERRY YARD

Raspberries, currants and gooseberries are protected from pests by scalding with boiling water. One bucket of boiling water is enough for 2-3 bushes. Boil water, pour it into a container, and then slowly pour it over the berry bushes. The ideal water temperature for irrigation is +70 °C. Clear the strawberry beds of old overwintered leaves. For an earlier harvest, rows early varieties it is necessary to cover the arches with a synthetic translucent film.

13 TRELLIES FOR GRAPES

Inspect old trellises for serviceability and free them from plant debris if this was not done in the fall. Already in early April you will need them to tie up the vines after the bushes have opened. Remember that the first wire is pulled at a height of 50 cm, the subsequent ones - at a distance of 50 cm. The height of the entire trellis is 2.5 m.

14 Pruning an apple tree

When trimming fruit trees Be sure to take into account their varietal characteristics - shoot-forming ability, excitability of the buds and the nature of fruiting wood.

Thus, weakly branching varieties that form many ringlets are shortened more strongly, and varieties with mixed fruiting branches (ringlets, spears and fruit twigs) are weaker. Many ringlets are formed by such spur apple varieties as “Jester”, “Goldspur”, “James Grieve Spur”, “Starkrimson”. These varieties also shorten their branches more during the period of full fruiting. In spur varieties, part of the overgrown branches is periodically removed, leaving small stumps on which new fruitful wood is formed.

WHAT TO DO IN THE GARDEN AND AT THE COUNTRY IN MARCH – SPECIALISTS AND GARDEN GROWERS ADVICE.

The calendar winter has hardly ended, and the summer resident is already in a hurry to go to the garden: missing work, he is ready to move mountains. There is a time for everything, reminds Doctor of Agricultural Sciences Valery MATVEEV. We’ll talk about what you can do on your property in March, and what you shouldn’t rush into.

IMPORTANT WORK IN EARLY MARCH

1. Preservation of moisture in the area
2. Caring for Damaged Trees
3. Pruning and shaping of fruit trees and shrubs
4. Preparation of cuttings for spring grafting and rooting
5. Cleaning old bark, restoring worn whitewash
6. Control of rodents, other pests and disease prevention

By lunar calendar better days for the first preventive spraying of trees against diseases and pests - March 13 and 14

Valery Avksentievich, spring started unusually early last year, even in middle lane already at the end of April the gardens began to bloom. Is there any hope that the start of the season will bring good weather this year?

The winter was not abnormally cold, so it did not bring any special problems to gardeners. However, after a moderate winter, do not expect it to immediately become warm in March. According to preliminary astrological forecasts Spring will be long, so the gardens will bloom at the usual time - not earlier than May. Let's hope that during this period the plants will not suffer from a sharp cold snap. But due to the fact that last year brought us a colossal harvest, the trees went into winter weakened and did not produce excess flower buds. So don't wait this year abundant flowering. What does it mean? Take a more responsible approach to preventing the occurrence of diseases and pests. If in a year of high harvest some of it is eaten by pests, but there is still plenty left for themselves, then this season the results will be much more modest.

Therefore, it is worth fighting for every flower. First of all, when the buds just begin to bloom, treat the trees and bushes with 3% Bordeaux mixture (300 g per 10 liters of water) - this is the so-called “blue spraying”. And then, without fail, treatment against flower beetles. All winter, experienced gardeners diligently accumulated snow in the garden - fortunately, there was no shortage of it. Does it make sense to continue to throw it on tree trunk circles in March? Or, due to the protracted spring, will it be necessary to remove it from the site?

No matter what spring it is, water must be saved. At the beginning of the season, there is usually not much moisture. And it goes into the soil very quickly. There is even a saying: “In spring, a bucket of water is a spoonful of dirt; in autumn, a spoonful of water is a bucket of dirt.”

Are those gardeners right who, in a hurry to saturate the soil with moisture as much as possible, scatter peat or ash on the snow? - And they will get the opposite effect: the soil is frozen this year, and if you provoke rapid melting of the snow, it will simply come off the site in streams. And it won’t get under the plants. It is important that the snow melts naturally, slowly - only then will most of it be absorbed into the ground. The main thing is to make sure that in uneven areas spring streams do not carry moisture into the ravines - snow retention measures will help here.

But here is the other extreme: summer residents try to delay the melting of snow as much as possible (they trample it into tree trunk circle or freeze blocks of ice by covering them with straw). The explanation is simple: this way you can delay the awakening of the tree and postpone flowering in order to protect it from return frosts...

Such “experiments” will lead to nothing good! Remember: the beginning of the growing season and flowering of a tree do not directly depend on the functioning of the root system! At an air temperature of +20 degrees and above, flower buds bloom quickly. And the roots, being under a layer of snow, are still sleeping and do not provide nutrition to the rest of the plant. How can this end? The tree weakens (and the young one may even die), the flowers, and later the fruits that set, fall off.

Bring clarity to another “super recipe”: it is often recommended to scatter salt on the snow under the trees - they say, this is an additional feeding...

Salt, again, on frozen ground will not give anything other than melting snow and loss of valuable moisture. And don’t be under the illusion that by adding salt to the soil, you are fertilizing it. What is salt? These are sodium and chlorine. And if sodium is digestible for plants, then they do not need chlorine at all. This procedure is a waste of time. I do not advise! It’s better not to forget to feed the garden with nitrogen fertilizers on time.

When can you plan your first feeding?

After the soil has completely thawed, as soon as the trees begin to bloom. Usually in the spring the most best option- this is the application of nitroammophoska into the soil (approximately: for a tree over 5 years old - a matchbox, and for young trees half is enough matchbox). And now, while the buds are sleeping, there is no need to fertilize - take your time!

But to pruning, including berry bushes, can we start now?

You can prune the garden all year round, but I am a little skeptical about pruning in an amateur garden when there is still snow: why do you need to trim trees in the cold, when your hands are frozen, the wind burns your face, in heavy clothes, falling into the snowdrifts? Don’t look at farmers who have hectares of garden: they simply won’t have time to trim such volumes in the spring before the buds open. And an amateur gardener can afford to choose a warm sunny day in April and calmly trim his 10-15 trees, enjoying the work (from the editor: more about spring pruning read on pages 14-15).

Do frozen trees have their own pruning times?

Absolutely right: in this case, postpone the procedure until May (or even early June), when frozen parts are already clearly visible on leafy trees. Cut out all branches damaged by frost, including 5-10 cm of healthy wood.

At the beginning of the season, to prevent the appearance of diseases and pests, summer residents pour boiling water over the bushes. True, warnings not to do this began to appear on the Internet: they say that boiling water flowing from the bushes warms the soil by several centimeters, where the pests are sleeping. The heat awakens them, and they begin to harm these particular bushes. This is true?

Only in theory. On practice hot shower It is recommended to carry it out in the snow. And by the time the drops fall to the ground, the water has already cooled down. Rest assured, the watering can you use on the bush is not capable of melting the soil enough to warm it and awaken pests. Unless, of course, you are going to pour out a barrel of boiling water...

OUR HELP

March is the time to apply trapping belts to the trunks of fruit trees. This good prevention appearance of apple blossom beetles. Hunting belts are removed only after the trees have completely faded.

Recorded by Victoria GULKO

The weevil is about to wake up!

Apple flower beetles (weevils) are called the “garden plague” for their harmfulness. Pests can destroy the entire crop.

Adult beetles overwinter in crevices between the base of the trunk and the soil, in cracks in the bark, and under fallen leaves. Warming up to +6 degrees, the air awakens weevils from hibernation. In the first days they are inactive. But as the temperature rises to +10 degrees, they become active, spreading throughout the garden, laying eggs in the buds (the larvae then eat up the entire inside of unopened flowers).

Therefore, it is important not to miss the time of the first treatment against apple flower beetles: when the average daily air temperature reaches +5 degrees, spray the trees with an insecticide (Decis, Fufanon, Karate, Fastak) according to the instructions.

Raisa MATVEEVA, Ph.D. biol. sciences

With pruning shears - on berry fields

In early spring, cut off the damaged shoots above the living bud of summer raspberries and blackberries and shorten those left for fruiting by 10-15 cm, fix them on a trellis. If remontant raspberries In the fall, you did not cut off the entire above-ground part to the soil level, do it now.

For viburnum, honeysuckle, chokeberry, remove damaged and dry branches, as well as those older than 8-9 years (they are no longer productive).

For hawthorn, with its very thick crown that is inconvenient to trim (there are long, sharp spines inside), be sure to remove thickened branches, and it is also important to shorten annual shoots by a third, stimulating their branching.

It is easier to collect fruits from bird cherry, serviceberry, garden ash and dogwood from a low plant (no more than 2.5 m), so “remove” the top (shorten the skeletal branches above the side branches).

But actinidia and Schisandra chinensis cannot be pruned in the spring (!) - the plants “cry” a lot. As a result, they become weaker, feel unwell, and may even die. It is better to form them in late autumn or winter.

Lyudmila FROLOVA, Ph.D. agricultural sciences

Work in the garden and vegetable garden in central Russia in March is characterized by active work with plants. Sowing of seedlings begins. Specific sowing dates are determined by the final planting location - greenhouse, greenhouse or soil, the nature of the site - high, swampy, on a slope, and weather conditions. Experienced gardeners keep diaries of their work and usually know such features.

February ended with nothing wobbly or unsteady. And, here it is - March.

March is the time for snow retention. In low-lying areas - clearing snow from drainage ditches. On sloping lands, small dams are installed in the path of streams carrying water.

In order to keep the snow on the site, shields and spruce branches are used. If you dust the snow with ash or peat, the dark snow will melt faster and the ground will absorb moisture.

To store water, barrels are filled with snow. To prevent a barrel of water from cracking during night frosts, throw a piece of board or a plastic bottle into it.

If you plan to use it as a water storage cast iron bath, then place it on bricks or planks. It’s just that a bathtub on the ground may crack in the first winter.

For planning buildings on garden plot It is important to know the rules for placing objects. About it .

What to do in the garden in March

1. In March, the first warm days (days above 5 degrees) begin pruning trees. Trees that have not wintered well, damaged branches and shoots that thicken the crown are pruned. The pruning areas must be treated with garden varnish on the same day. And burn all cut branches and twigs.
2. Shrub trimming. In red and black currants, yoshta, gooseberries, and honeysuckle, old branches that give little yield and thin, poorly developed shoots are cut out. All this is cut out at the root, without leaving stumps, so as not to interfere with the growth of new shoots and to prevent diseases and pests from appearing.

The main pruning of raspberries was carried out in the fall, and now sanitary pruning of shoots that did not survive the winter is being carried out.

3. Inspection of the tree bark to see if it is damaged or chewed by hares. If damage is detected, carry out repairs by covering it with garden varnish and wrapping plastic film on top.

4. Also, in March they whiten or paint with a special acrylic paint tree trunks. This protects the bark from cracking when the temperature changes from frost at night to “plus” during the day and suppresses pests overwintering in the bark.

5. If real spring has arrived at the end of March - the snow has melted, it’s warm and the soil is warming up, then it’s time to install hunting belts on the trees. This is necessary to catch pests that have overwintered in the ground. Which, upon waking up, will move along the trunk into the crown in search of housing and food. If there is snow and cold, then this is done later - in April.

6. Check birdhouses and nest boxes. The design should have strong roof and roost. The owners and pest control assistants will arrive soon.

What to do in the garden in March

To sow seedlings, it is important to decide whether the plants are being prepared for greenhouses and greenhouses or for planting in the ground. To plant in the ground, you need to sow later. So that the seedlings do not stretch out in pots, waiting for the end of the return frosts.

1. In the first ten days of March, cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants are sown for planting in greenhouses and greenhouses.
2. Then, in the first ten days of March, sowing takes place herbs for soil.
3. From the second decade of March, potatoes are laid out for greening and sprouting. How this is done is written below.
4. In mid-March, cabbage seedlings are sown.
5. If you haven’t dumped snow from greenhouses in winter, it’s good to do it now so that the snow, which becomes heavier when melting, doesn’t break the roof. Start repairing greenhouses and greenhouses.
6. If you have been preparing a “warm” compost bed since the fall, then in March, clear it of snow and cover it with film for 2 weeks. In the third decade, radishes, dill, lettuce, and onions can be sown in this heated soil.

It started, so far, small physical exercise. Don’t forget to “not lie flat” after the first working day in the garden.

How not to forget what needs to be done at what time. For this, well, it’s very useful to keep a gardening diary. Write down everything you consider important and useful there.

This can be done conveniently on a computer using the EXCEL program. And an unlimited number of years can be tracked, and both a row and a column can be added anywhere. And breaking it down into sheets makes it easy to archive your experiences by month.

If you are afraid that you don’t know how to use EXCEL, that’s nonsense. In the side bar on the right there is a free book on this program. It describes in detail how to create and fill out tables. All the initial data, which is definitely enough to keep a gardener’s diary and more.

We will live in retirement, caring for the earth, loving it and feeding on its energy.

Calendar of work in the garden and vegetable garden in March.

Work at the dacha in March. What needs to be done in the garden in March. Everything you need to do at the dacha in March.

List of works in the garden and vegetable garden for March

1. At the beginning of March, you should sow seedlings of peppers, eggplants and tall tomatoes, if you did not have time to do this at the end of February. We will have to speed up the emergence of seedlings; for this we need to increase the soil temperature. Pepper will sprout on the 8-10th day, if the soil temperature is 28-32 degrees, and eggplant and tomato at this temperature will sprout on the 6-7th and 4-5th days, respectively. With more low temperatures shoots are delayed for several days. However, you cannot raise the temperature above 40 degrees, otherwise the seeds may die. Well, if the soil temperature is below 20 degrees, then peppers and eggplants may not sprout at all, and tomato seedlings will appear only after 15-17 days.

2. As soon as the first loop of seedlings appears, without waiting for the others to appear, the container with seedlings should be immediately placed on the window and the temperature should be checked: during the day it should not be higher than 16-18 degrees, and at night about 12-14. After a week, day and night temperatures should be increased by 4-6 degrees. Such a temporary decrease in temperature stops the growth of the subcotyledon and prevents strong elongation of seedlings at an early stage of development. But do not forget that a decrease in temperature by more than 8 degrees will lead to early disease of tomatoes with late blight, as well as to the appearance of faceted (double) flowers, which must be picked off at the bud stage (it is abnormally large), since such flowers grow into ugly the fruit of several fused together. Seeds from such fruits should not be taken, since they grow into plants with faceted flowers.

3. If you have already sprung up peppers, tomatoes and eggplants, then do not forget that you should start feeding them as soon as the cotyledon leaves unfold and the plant switches to its own root nutrition, and not wait until real leaves appear. Fertilizing should be combined with watering, that is, water the plant not with water, but with a weak fertilizer solution. For this, “Uniflor-rost” is most suitable for seedlings of eggplants and tomatoes and “Uniflor-bud” for peppers. 1 teaspoon per 5 liters of water is enough. It should be noted that these solutions last indefinitely. Seedlings should be watered moderately. The soil should be slightly moist. Common mistake gardeners - excessive watering of seedlings, which leads to the death of roots due to lack of oxygen, acidification of the soil and the appearance of fine Drosophila fruit fly, feeding on plant rot. In such cases, you should dry the soil without watering the plants for 5 days.

4. At the same time, the seedlings require good lighting, otherwise leaves will form at the growth point and move further away. late date setting of buds, which will naturally lead to a delay in fruiting. Generally speaking, you need fluorescent lamps located 5 - 7 cm above the plants. As the seedlings grow, the lamps must be raised so that a distance of 5 - 7 cm is maintained. It should be noted that long days are harmful for peppers, since they are short-day plants, so the lighting for them must be turned on for 7 - 8 hours. But eggplants and tomatoes are long-day plants, so the lighting for them should be turned on at 11 - 12 hours. If you have them all together, then the peppers will have to be covered with a black cloth after 8 hours of illumination. There are excellent “Reflax” lamps for illuminating seedlings; they are hung immediately at a height of 1.5 m above the seedlings.

5. After the tomato has its first true leaf, even before picking (the first transplant), the soil should be carefully watered with a weak copper solution. The easiest way is to use HOM (copper chloride), since it can be diluted in cold water and in any container, including metal. It is enough to take 1 teaspoon without top of the powder and dilute it in 10 liters of water (0.05% solution). The solution can stand indefinitely. Systematically water tomato seedlings with this solution instead of water once every 2 weeks and thereby you will significantly increase the resistance of tomatoes to late blight disease. Or you can use “Fitosporin” by dissolving a tiny grain in water until the solution becomes slightly cloudy (but not brown!). The solution does not stand, so do not dilute it too much. You can water your indoor flowers with the excess solution. The living bacterial spores that are in Fitosporin will awaken, and the bacteria will “eat” all soil pathogens of fungal and bacterial diseases. This feeding is also useful for eggplants, since they also suffer from late blight, although to a lesser extent than tomatoes. Peppers do not suffer from late blight, but feeding them with copper will not harm them, since we, as a rule, grow seedlings on peat soils, and there is no copper in peat.

6. You can also sow root and petiole celery. To do this, take yogurt cups, fill it three-quarters with soil, add snow, compact it and sow three celery seeds on the snow. Celery seeds are clearly visible in the snow. They are very small, therefore, like all small seeds, they are not covered with soil on top. When the snow melts, they will be slightly drawn into the soil.

After sowing, the cups should be covered with film or glass and placed on the windowsill right next to the glass. Celery is a cold-resistant crop, the seeds will hatch at 2 - 4 degrees Celsius and sprout at 6 - 7 degrees. But since the seeds germinate with difficulty, it is better to set the temperature to about 20 degrees, and after germination, move the seedlings to the windowsill in a cooler place. When shoots appear, the film can be removed. As soon as the plants have 1-2 true leaves, leave the strongest plant in each cup, cut the rest according to the soil level nail scissors. IN further plants You need to lightly cover them with soil, otherwise they will fall: support the plant with one match and rake the soil towards it with the other. You can add sand later.

7. In the same way, in mid-March, sow seeds of petunia, snapdragon, nemesia, crystal chamomile and other long-growing flowers with small seeds. To stimulate the seeds, drop a Zircon solution onto them from a pipette (4 drops per half a glass of water). Small seeds are not covered with soil! They need light to sprout. Place containers with seeds in a tied bag immediately in a warm place. Shoots small seeds Do not water from above! For watering, use a syringe, the needle of which should be inserted into the soil.

8. At the end of March, sow the seeds of marigolds and asters, sprinkling them with 0.01 m of soil. Compact the soil with a spoon. Cover with film and place in a warm place. The soil for asters must be pre-steamed or well watered with a solution of Fitosporin to destroy the spores of the fungus that causes the blackleg. Later, when picking seedlings new soil should also be spilled with Fitosporin or HOM.

9. Throw away the diseased onions, and place the ones that have begun to grow, close together, in a shallow container with a small amount of slightly moistened soil or just sand and place in a bright place. In a couple of weeks you will have young greens. You can do the same with sprouting garlic.

10. At the end of March, you should visit the site to do sanitary pruning and prepare ditches for drainage excess water When the snow melts, spray the garden against pests wintering on trees and under them. To do this, take 700 g of urea, dissolve it in cold water, strain and thoroughly spray the entire garden and the soil under the plantings. Such a high concentration of mineral fertilizer will disrupt the salt metabolism of pests, penetrating through their chitinous cover, and destroy them. For the garden during the dormant period, such spraying is harmless.

If tree trunks are heavily populated with lichens, then they can be easily destroyed before sap flow begins with a 7-10% solution iron sulfate(1 teaspoon per 100 ml of water). The trunks can be sprayed or brushed. After three days, the lichens will fall off the trunks on their own. All this should under no circumstances be done when sap flow begins: you can burn the awakened bark and buds, which will cause great damage to the tree or bush - it may even die.

11. Carefully inspect the blackcurrant bushes. At this time, thick swollen buds infested with bud mites are clearly visible on the branches. They must be picked and burned, otherwise, as the buds swell, the strays will come out of them and settle in new buds. If there are a lot of such buds on a branch, then cut and burn the entire branch.

12. At the end of March, you can carry out pre-winter sowing. In our country it is better to do this in March, not in the fall. The beds are prepared for such sowing in the fall. And they even make furrows on them with the edge of the board. In the fall, prepare a bag of dry soil and leave it on the veranda.

Sweep the snow from such a bed. Water well hot water from the kettle along the furrows. Sprinkle the furrows with ash (except those where you will sow carrots, otherwise they will have many tails) and sow seeds in them. To prevent the crops from thickening, you need to prepare a mixture of one teaspoon of seeds, one teaspoon of the powder fraction of AVA fertilizer and half a glass of fine sifted sand (or drunk tea or coffee from bags) and sow as if to “salt” the furrows. Sprinkle a 2 cm layer of soil on top, cover the crops with a board and cover with snow.

13. Feed the birds and place mouse bait at home. You can use Storm, Klerat, Zernotsin, Geldan, or simply make a mixture of 1 part cement, 1 part sugar and 2 parts flour. Place in saucers, add a couple of drops of unrefined sunflower oil and place treats along the baseboards.

Traditional weather signs for March

❂ Frequent fogs in March foreshadow a rainy summer.

❂ Dry March means fertility, rainy March means crop failure.

❂ If during March snowstorms the snow on the fields falls unevenly, wavy, and in mounds, then garden vegetables and spring grains will be born well.

❂ Water has appeared on the ice of rivers and lakes - it will soon become warm.

Weather for tomorrow

❂ In March, clouds float quickly and high - good weather.

❂ The crane flew to the warmth. Finches - to the cold.

❂ The rooks arrived and started repairing the nests - in a couple of days it will be warm weather If the nests are not repaired, the cold will last for several days.

❂ The crow hides its beak under its wing - wait for frost.

Hello, Dear friends!

In this article I want to tell you about what we will do, what basic work we need to do in the first month of spring.

Spring is here, my dear summer residents! Finally, we have waited for the start of the summer season!

I’m not mistaken, because for a real summer resident, winter is really already over, because with our thoughts and actions we are already at our summer cottages, anticipating and planning things to do.

March was not always the first month of spring. For example, New Year in Rus', until 1492, it was celebrated on the first day of March, and ancient Christians generally believed that our world was created on March 1, 5508 BC.

The word “March” itself came to us from Byzantium. The month was named after the god Mars - Martius, who was originally the god of fields, harvest, cattle breeding, and then the god of war.

Folk signs about this month said: “March has seven weathers - it twists, stirs, bakes, sows, blows, spills, pours generously from the sky”; “March is not spring, but the pre-spring.”

So in March there will also be snow, frost, and other weather surprises, but they are no longer scary. Winter is slowly but surely retreating and the March sun reminds us of this more and more persistently. Therefore, we are going to our own summer cottages, inspect your possessions, because your hands miss work so much.

Yes, to be honest, this is not work at all, but rest for the soul and muscles that have stagnated over the winter.

Work for fresh air will only give us strength and only at the dacha can we truly feel that SPRING has COME!

What are the main tasks in March at the dacha?

In March at the dacha We have more and more troubles and therefore, it would be good to outline a plan of action in order to correctly calculate our strength, because we have a lot of work in the garden, and in the vegetable garden, and in the flower garden.

It is difficult to pinpoint the exact time for any particular work to be carried out in March. specific date, since it depends entirely on the weather, which last years completely unpredictable.

But still, let's decide what we have to do this month.

Farewell to the snow

• March, of course, is already spring, but there is still a lot of snow and, therefore, it is necessary to carefully examine the trees and bushes and if there is still wet snow on the branches, then it must be shaken off.
• In the first ten days of March, the snow begins to melt and we must try to retain the melt water in the area. For example, you can fill all available containers with snow. In low places, clean the drainage grooves, and to drain water from the root necks of trees, you can dig grooves in the settled snow on the south side of the crown.
• It is also good to clear paths and rows of snow from snow so that excess melt water leaves the area quickly. It also wouldn’t hurt to make grooves in the snow near greenhouses, greenhouses, compost heaps, and cellars.

We free the frozen branches of bushes from the ice captivity by sprinkling the ice with a thin layer of humus, peat or ash so that it melts faster. It is also necessary to destroy the dense layer of snow compacted during the winter around young trees.

But still, do not rush to remove all the snow, because in March there can still be severe frosts!

Gardening and vegetable care

What needs to be done in the flower garden?

• At the end of March, in sunny weather, we begin to ventilate roses, hydrangeas and other perennials that have been covered since autumn, slightly raising the shelter.
• To avoid damping off, it would be good to break the crust over garden strawberries, bulbous crops.
• If, after the snow has melted, we find that root system perennials and biennials are still a little sagging, it is necessary to urgently replant them and mulch them with peat.
• It is necessary to ensure that there is enough snow above the perennials, since frosts are still possible and the roots may freeze.
• You can already start fertilizing bulbous crops and perennials by scattering complex mineral fertilizer, in which nitrogen predominates.

But the most important concern for a summer resident in March is, of course, seedlings. After all, it is during this month that most of the work associated with growing seedlings occurs.

It is necessary to care for the plants already planted in February, as well as continue sowing those crops whose sowing time for seedlings has come.

You can read all about growing seedlings in previous articles.

As you understand, this month is really hot for us summer residents. The time has come when we need to “prepare the sleigh” for the future harvest.

Therefore, dear friends - “everyone to the garden”!

It just seems that the garden in March is bare and cold, but in fact the processes have begun - everything is waking up, coming to life, preparing for a new active life.

Don't miss the moment, start producing the necessary things on time country work.

So go ahead! Let's get down to business, because working on the land is an excellent healer for all diseases and bad moods!

Avid summer residents are looking forward to the spring thaw to take care of their plots. At first glance, it may seem that there is nothing to do in early spring, since the earth has not yet warmed up, and in some places there is still snow. Spring dacha work includes a whole range of measures to improve the territory and prepare it for the next season.

Basic gardening work in March

First of all, in March or April, you need to remove all covering materials that served the plants as good protection in severe frosts. All structures will have to be thoroughly washed and dried so that when the next winter season arrives, you can use them at the right time.

With the first rays of the sun, not only the lush green flowers appear, but also the weeds begin to actively emerge. Pull them out by the roots from wet soil. Young moss can be easily removed with a brush and water pressure from a hose. If you use water to restore order in March, remember that you need to work at above-zero temperatures, otherwise you yourself will freeze and the area will turn into an ice skating rink.

An important stage of work in early spring is soil mulching. On prepared soil, many plants are less susceptible to rotting, so you can collect good harvest strawberries, cucumbers or pumpkin.

Mulch performs decorative function, and also protects plants from the scorching rays of the sun and the March cold. To make a mulch mixture, sawdust, straw, compost or rotten leaves are most often used.

With the first rays of sun, summer residents begin planting tree seedlings. While the tree is dormant, it takes root best in new soil. Spring is also considered the most good time for grafting shrubs and trees.

In early spring there is quite a lot of work at the dacha, so the owners even small plots We are looking forward to the snow melting and at least a little warmer. From spring gardening work The amount of harvest in the future directly depends, as well as the beauty of your favorite area.