Insulation for a house from the street. Insulation for external walls of a house: types, how to choose, best brands

The use of thermal insulation systems in building structures can significantly reduce heating costs. The use of all kinds of insulation makes it possible to speed up the pace of construction and reduce the budget for building a house. In order for them to cope with their responsibilities, you need to know how to choose them. Do you agree?

We will tell you how to choose the right insulation for the exterior walls of your home. The article we presented describes all types of thermal insulation materials used in practice and their operating features. Independent owners of country estates will find facade insulation technology here.

Heat loss through walls averages about 40%, depending on the integrity of the structure and the thickness of the wall. With rising prices for gas and electricity, it becomes unacceptable to spend money on heating the street.

Therefore, it is necessary to insulate the walls from the outside, which provides the following advantages:

• thermal insulation of the house from the outside does not take away the useful area of ​​the living space indoors;
• the insulation layer performs decorative and protective functions for walls, extending their service life;
• walls insulated from the outside do not freeze and are not saturated with moisture from steam, as with internal insulation;
• thermal insulation materials They also perform a soundproofing function.

But the main reason for insulating the facade of a house is still economic, because this simple procedure can almost halve the amount in receipts for heating.

To correctly select a material designed to reduce heat loss, you need. Our recommended article will introduce you to its examples and formulas.

Types of insulation materials

So what is the best way to insulate a house from the outside to reduce heat loss? Manufacturers offer many materials suitable for these purposes. But there are several main types. These include: polystyrene foam, basalt wool, glass wool, extruded expanded polystyrene, mineral wool and others.

A less effective method of insulation is to apply a layer of plaster to the outer part of the walls. This is an inexpensive way to reduce heat loss, but it requires experience and certain skills - just desire will not be enough.

External wall insulation requires certain professional skills from the performer. They will be useful both when choosing a material and during its installation.

Wooden houses are often insulated using a double frame. In this case, any of the listed materials is attached to the walls, and cladding is done on top. At the same time, an air “cushion” remains between the insulation and the decorative layers for air ventilation.

Option No. 1 - polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene has gained the greatest popularity among thermal insulation materials. First of all, this is due to its low cost. A distinctive feature of the insulation is also its low weight.

Other advantages of the material:

• low thermal conductivity;
• affordable price;
• long service life.

One of the disadvantages is that foam does not allow steam to pass through. This feature does not allow it to be used for insulating wooden houses.

Among other disadvantages, the significant one is that polystyrene foam is flammable material, which releases substances harmful to humans during combustion. In addition, the fragility of the material, which leads to damage to the insulation even with minor mechanical influences, significantly complicates its installation.

Foam insulation is an excellent way to reduce heat loss, both in a private house and in an apartment or industrial enterprise, and for quite little money

Option No. 2 – mineral wool

This material also enjoys well-deserved popularity among owners of residential and non-residential premises.

Advantages of mineral wool:

• high vapor permeability, which prevents wooden structures from rotting, and the bricks are not saturated with moisture, which prevents the appearance of mold and fungi on the surface of the walls;
• low cost;
• light weight of the mats, which makes it easier to work with them and reduces transportation costs;
• the material is not flammable, there are no toxic odors;
• long service life.

There are three types of mineral wool: slag wool, glass wool and stone wool (also known as basalt). Each material has its own characteristics.

Most suitable for residential buildings Basalt wool is considered, since it is made from safe raw materials, unlike glass wool. At the same time, the material is stronger and more durable than slag wool. But the high cost of basalt wool is its disadvantage.

Mineral wool, made in the form of mats, is the most practical option for insulating low walls and small rooms. And anyone who has at least a little knowledge of construction can handle its installation.

Modern glass wool is considered safe to use. Unlike the material of the same name, manufactured ten years ago, it does not irritate the respiratory tract. It can be used to insulate not only external, but also internal walls and ceilings.

It is easy to install and lightweight. Can be purchased in rolls or slabs. It is more advisable to buy rolled material for insulation long walls. Glass wool slabs are suitable for small walls.

The following advantages of the material are highlighted:

• does not absorb moisture from the air;
• no toxic odors;
• does not ignite;
• does not change shape during use;
• high performance vapor permeability;
• good sound insulation properties;
• does not interact with chemicals;
• can be used in all climatic zones planets.

In some cases, rolled glass wool will cost less than that made in the form of slabs. To cut it, you can use ordinary sharpened knives.

The material does not have many disadvantages. Among them:

• when insulating walls with glass wool, you need to wear protective gloves and goggles;
• the fragility of the fibers of the material, which is why a lot of synthetic substances are in the air during installation and interfere with safe breathing.

Despite the fact that modern insulation material much more environmentally friendly and safer for humans; if there is a significant amount of polymer particles in the air, it is better to use a respirator.

In some cases, rolled glass wool will cost less than that made in the form of slabs. To cut it, you can use regular sharpened knives.

Option #3 – uh extruded expanded polystyrene

This material is made from ordinary polystyrene foam.

After special processing he receives the following benefits:

• increased compressive strength;
• low moisture absorption;
• low flammability or its complete impossibility, which depends on the amount of fire retardant substance;
• reduced thermal conductivity.

For such material you will need to pay a higher price than for regular foam. But more durable and reliable.

Another disadvantage is the smooth surface of the material slab. Because of this, solutions do not “set” with it, so without preliminary preparation surfaces such foam cannot be used in a “wet façade” design.

You will need to sand the smooth side with fine sandpaper, to give it a rough surface. Additionally, you can apply a layer of adhesive primer, which will increase the penetration of the solution into the insulating material.

Option No. 4 - bulk insulation

Bulk materials can also be used for external thermal insulation.

Among them, the most popular are:

• vermiculite;
• perlite crushed stone;
• expanded clay

Vermiculite can be used not only to insulate walls outside the room, but also from the inside. They insulate sewer and water pipes, floors, attics, foundation. It can be produced in the form of slabs. There are technologies by which this material is added to concrete or mortars.

Vermiculite – natural material, does not emit harmful toxic odors. Its advantages are: durability, lightness, fire resistance, low thermal conductivity and sound absorption. It also does not absorb moisture.

For insulation outer wall bulk material can be added to building mixture or fall asleep between the main wall and a decorative one, built on a foundation made of facing bricks. This method is more expensive, as it requires expanding the foundation. An additional load on the foundation slab is also expected.

Vermiculite is sold in paper bags, usually 25 kg. This is very convenient during transportation, because for delivery you can use your own passenger transport.

Perlite, depending on the fractions, can be of different sizes. It is also used to insulate roofs and floors. It is a volcanic glass-like rock that has no odor. Widely used not only in construction, but also in metallurgy and agriculture.

Advantages of the material:

• porous structure;
• low cost;
• easily absorbs and releases moisture without losing its qualities;
• fire resistance;
• low thermal conductivity.

A perlite layer of just 3 cm has the same thermal insulation efficiency as brickwork 25 cm wide.

Expanded clay– granular porous material obtained artificially. When several components are burned (peat, intumescent clay, diesel oil, sawdust, sulfate-alcohol stillage), fusible raw materials are obtained. It is foamed and heat treated to give it its final shape.

To save on purchasing expanded clay, you need to buy it from the manufacturer. Of course, this is not always convenient, but there is a guarantee that the material is really high quality

The material is sold in fractions from 2 mm to 40 mm. Expanded clay from 10 mm to 20 mm is considered the most popular. They are the ones who need to fill the space between the walls – the main and decorative ones.

A layer of only 100 mm replaces 1000 mm of brickwork in terms of thermal conductivity. In the frosty season, the insulation will not allow the house to lose a lot of heat, and in the summer heat it will keep the room cool, due to its extremely low rate thermal conductivity.

Advantages of wall insulation with expanded clay:

• this is one of the cheapest insulation materials;
• reduction in heat loss reaches 75%;
• can be used for any outside temperature and humidity;
• long service life;
• there is no burning or rotting of the material;
• expanded clay does not attract insects and rodents;
• You can insulate a house yourself, as it does not require high technical skills or special tools.

In the layer between decorative and load-bearing wall expanded clay can be poured into pure form, or mixed with cement. The proportion is 1:10 - one part cement and ten parts expanded clay. You will need a concrete mixer and water to dissolve the cement. The prepared mixture is poured into the empty space between the walls.

This is what a cement mixture with expanded clay looks like, which can be poured as insulation between two walls. Of course, insulation cement mixture quite a long process, but worth it

You can also do it differently: first pour expanded clay to a height of 300 mm, and then saturate it with the prepared cement “milk”. Then add insulation again. And repeat this until the height of the insulation reaches the desired level.

Any of the methods will not worsen the thermal insulation properties of the material.

Facade insulation technologies

There are three main technologies for facade insulation:

• "well" method- construction of a multilayer wall;
• "wet" method- under covering with plaster;
• "dry" method- “ventilated facade” technology.

Depending on what you choose, you should select thermal insulation materials suitable for implementation.

"Wet" method is the application of a finishing coating to a layer of insulation in the form plaster mixture. Since the mixture is rich in moisture, it is necessary to use only materials that do not absorb water. Foam plastic is best suited for this, but they can also be used mineral wool.

Depending on the strength of the wall and the integrity of the brickwork, the plaster system can be “light” or “heavy”. In the first case main goal is to reduce the weight of the thermal insulation layer.

The insulation is fixed to the wall with glue and dowels. From the outside it is protected by a metal profile made of thin aluminum. Only a thin decorative layer of plaster is applied to it to level the surface of the wall and give it a finished visual appearance.

In a “heavy” system, the insulation is fixed with metal anchors and pressed down with reinforcing mesh. A 5-5.5 cm layer of plaster is applied on top. This design is reliably protected from temperature changes and moisture.

With the “dry” method Insulation plaster is not used at all. The insulation is fixed to the wall with glue and mounting umbrellas. In this case, it is ideal, for which telescopic fasteners with wide caps and other mounting elements are specially produced.

WITH outside insulation is protected membrane layer, the main task of which is to provide protection from atmospheric water. The membrane is fixed with spaced metal or wooden slats, forming a ventilation gap between the thermal insulation and the sheathing.

The gap width is up to 5 cm. The cladding layer can be made of various panels: wood, steel. It can also be half-brick masonry, tiles or siding. This method of insulation is more durable, unlike the “wet” one, and can reach a service life of half a century.

Using multilayer technology the surface is insulated with two more layers: insulation and an outer wall made of brick. This method of insulation was described above. Various bulk materials that are resistant to steam, condensation and moisture (expanded clay, perlite, etc.) are suitable for it.

To choose the right insulation, you need to take into account several more factors that may affect the quality of the work performed.

Condition of walls and foundation. If the house is old, and the foundation or brickwork is already cracked, then it is necessary to abandon heavy insulating structures. In this case, it is best to install lungs and durable materials. It is better to attach them using special adhesives.

Architectural complexity of the building. Polystyrene foam and mineral wool are well processed and make it possible to provide reliable insulation of walls with recesses, patterns and other decorative elements.

Resistance to insects and rodents. Often, small rodents and insects, such as mice or ants, can make nests under a layer of thermal insulation.

If there is such a problem on the site, then it would be advisable to carry out insulation using bulk materials. Expanded clay is good because it does not attract animals.

It is also necessary to take into account other factors, such as the price of insulation, features of its installation, wall material, impact on the environment, fire resistance, etc.

If you plan to install a thermal insulation system from the inside of the house, it is worth reading, which describes in detail the materials and methods of their use.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

To avoid common mistakes when choosing materials for insulation, we recommend watching the following videos:

With all the variety of available materials and insulation methods, you can always choose the most suitable one. Despite the fact that some work seems easy to perform, it is still better to entrust it to experienced builders and heating engineers.

Would you like to talk about how you selected insulation for furnishing your own country house? Do you have information that will be useful to site visitors? Please write comments, ask questions on controversial or interesting points, post photos in the block below.

Nowadays, none of the owners of private houses need to be convinced of how important it is to insulate the walls from the outside. And it is best to insulate the walls of houses during construction, when access to all structures is open from all sides. Then you can arrange thermal insulation by the most the right way- from the outside, from the very foundation and basement to the roof of the building.

But, considering how much it costs to carry out this work, many homeowners insulate their homes themselves in order to save money, because in reality the technology of the process is not so complicated. The purpose of this article is to talk about the best way to sheathe walls and how you can properly do the external insulation of a house with your own hands.

Choice of insulation

The list of thermal insulation materials used as external cladding of enclosing structures of private houses cannot be called large. And if you also take into account the cost of these materials and choose which is cheaper to produce insulation, then the list is completely reduced to several positions:

• mineral wool (stone, basalt) in slabs and rolls;
• fiberglass-based mineral wool in rolls;
• foamed polystyrene boards (foam plastic);
• slabs made of extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex).

Note. Listed here are the most popular and inexpensive materials used for exterior wall insulation. In addition to them, there is also ecowool, made from waste paper, and sprayed polyurethane foam. But these are more expensive insulation materials, and besides, you won’t be able to apply polyurethane foam yourself; this requires special units.

From point of view fire safety and preventing rodents, the best option is thermal insulation of walls with mineral wool based on basalt fiber. The material does not burn at all and can easily withstand temperatures up to 600 °C, which is why it is used for insulating various chimneys, both brick and metal. Mice do not like mineral wool, unlike ecowool and polystyrene foam, and therefore the owner of a country house in a rural area can be calm about the safety of the insulation.

For reference. It is for these reasons that frame houses are provided with mineral wool insulation technology, since it is part of the outer wall, as shown in the diagram:

The thermal insulation properties of basalt wool are quite high, although slightly worse than those of foamed polymers. But this is not the main problem of this material; its main enemy is moisture. Due to open pores, any mineral wool has high vapor permeability, which means it needs protection from moisture and good ventilation to remove steam.


Rolled glass wool has the same qualities, except fireproof. Its temperature limit is only 200 °C, so glass wool cannot withstand fire. By the way, rolled materials are not the best choice for external insulation of a house, since they tend to slide down and bunch up as they get wet. Of course, over time, the moisture leaves, but the insulation will not return to its designed position and entire uninsulated clearings will appear under the finishing, invisible to the eye.

About foamed polymers

The cheapest material used to insulate a house outside is polystyrene foam, which is also the most popular. It has a higher thermal resistance than cotton wool and is almost impervious to moisture, while being very lightweight. This is understandable, because the polymer consists of closed pores filled with air. Its serious drawback is flammability, which should be taken into account when starting to insulate walls.

The question often comes up on the Internet: is it even possible to insulate residential buildings, including wooden ones, with polystyrene foam? We will present the answer using the example of panel houses assembled from multilayer elements - thermal timber and SIP panels. In these elements, the insulating layer of foam is part of the outer wall, only on both sides it is protected by cladding made of wood or OSB plywood, as shown in the photo below. That is, to insulate the facade, including panel house, this polymer can be used, especially outside, but it needs to be done wisely.

Regarding the question of which foam plastic is best for sheathing the enclosing structures of a residential building or cottage. The most popular material has a density of 25 kg/m3, it is quite warm and at the same time durable. There is also polystyrene with a density of 15 and 35 kg/m3, but the first is rarely used because of its fragility, and the second because of its high cost. True, greater density is needed when the structure experiences mechanical loads, for example, during thermal insulation of floors.

The “brother” of polystyrene foam - extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) does not allow moisture to pass through at all, and it resists the penetration of heat more successfully. Therefore, to insulate the same stone house, a layer of penoplex will be required less than the materials listed earlier. Expanded polystyrene, like mineral wool, is not to the taste of rodents, while mice like to make nests in unprotected foam insulation. Like any polymer, the “extruder” is flammable and therefore needs protection from high temperatures.

Calculation of insulation thickness

Ideally, the thickness should be calculated depending on the materials from which the enclosing structures are constructed and the region of residence. If we take the same region, then the thickness of the thermal insulation for concrete or cinder block walls will be greater, and for a house made of aerated concrete or foam blocks - less. That is, a lot depends on what thermal insulation properties the material of the block house has.

Advice. To do external insulation correctly, you need to work hard and find the thermal conductivity coefficient of your building materials in reference books or on the Internet and calculate the thickness of the insulation.

A fairly accurate calculation can be made based on table data reflecting regulatory requirements for the thermal resistance of walls in different regions RF. For example, knowing that in Kazan this resistance R should be 3.3 m2 °C/W, you need to calculate how much a regular 250 mm brick wall will give and then add the required thickness of thermal insulation. The resistance of a brick wall is 0.187 m2 °C/W (following table), subtract this number from the total figure: 3.3 – 0.187 = 3.113 m2 °C/W.

The thermal conductivity coefficient of foam plastic is λ = 0.037 W/m2 °C (reference data), we substitute it into the formula for determining the thickness along with the required heat transfer resistance:
δ = R x λ = 3.113 x 0.037 = 0.115 m

It turns out that in Kazan, to an ordinary wall of 1 brick, you need to add at least 115 mm of foam plastic for minimal thermal insulation, and for good - 150 mm. Using this method, the thickness of insulation in any house made of logs, blocks or timber in combination with any thermal insulation material is calculated.

External insulation of walls of a brick house

For permanent residential buildings with brick, stone or concrete walls, there are two generally accepted methods of external insulation:

• technology associated with wet processes involves the use of building mixtures and decorative plasters;
• Mechanical fastening of the material to the facade is done under siding, block house or other types of finishing.

“Wet” insulation of a brick house is more complex, as it requires some skills, so not everyone can do it with their own hands. In this case, both polystyrene foam and mineral wool are used, only the adhesive mixture for them also needs a different one. Famous manufacturers, such as CERESIT, sell complete sets insulation and finishing materials for thermal insulation of facades in one way or another.

The essence of the technique is as follows. A layer of primer is first applied to cleaned and leveled surfaces. deep penetration, and after it dries, the slab insulation is glued; rolled insulation will not work here. Since the slopes plastic windows houses also need to be insulated, then insulating material is glued to them, the thickness of which is half that of the wall layer. After 2 days, the insulation is fixed mechanically using special dowel umbrellas.

Note. For panel apartment buildings and large cottages where there are balconies, the technology is preserved under one condition. The balcony parapet must be solid so that thermal insulation boards can be glued to it. Otherwise, the parapet will have to be built from foam or gas blocks, or this technique will have to be abandoned.

Reinforcing fiberglass mesh is applied to all surfaces, including window slopes, simultaneously with a layer of adhesive mixture up to 5 mm thick. This layer is waterproofing, and after it a decorative plaster layer with texture (bark beetle, shagreen, etc.) is applied. Only before this, the hardened glue is again treated with a primer. And the last step is painting, although you don’t have to do it, just add the required color to the plaster.

Thermal insulation wet method does not provide any vapor barrier, leaving the thickness of the house wall permeable to steam. On the other hand, the outer layer of the adhesive mixture is waterproofing, protecting the insulation from direct contact with water. The technology is applicable to the external walls of the house and basement (only without decorative plaster), it will not be possible to insulate an attic or roof in the same way. Insulation from the inside is more appropriate there.

The second method of insulation is used for both brick and wooden log and timber houses, therefore will be discussed in the next section. More details about “wet” thermal insulation of residential buildings are described in the video:

External insulation of a wooden house made of timber

Before you start covering the log house or timber house, the surface should be carefully prepared. This is especially true for old log walls, which need to be caulked in order to close all the cracks. For obvious reasons, it is impossible to insulate a wooden house from the outside using a “wet” method, so timber sheathing is attached to the walls. Its width should be equal to the thickness of the insulation. The interval between the beams is also selected depending on the width of the roll or thermal insulation slab.

For reference. Sometimes it happens that before insulating the external structures of a log house, it is necessary to cut off the protruding crowns of logs at the corners of the house. Bypassing them with a system of slats and finishing is very problematic.

A vapor barrier is laid under the beams over the entire area of ​​the house wall - dense polyethylene film. At the joints, the film is placed with an overlap of at least 100 mm, after which it is taped along the entire length with construction tape. It’s good when the joint falls under the sheathing beam, then it is additionally pressed against the surface.

At the next stage, insulation is laid between the slats and fixed in a convenient way, using the same dowel umbrellas, only plastic ones. After which the film is stretched over the entire area again, but not the usual one, but one that allows vapors to pass through. It is called a diffusion membrane and protects the thermal insulation from wind and direct ingress of water (wind-hydrobarrier). In this case, the water vapor formed in the insulation from the appearance of the dew point has the opportunity to escape through the membrane to the outside.

In order to ensure the removal of moisture from the outer part of the membrane, a vent is installed between it and the lining - a ventilated air layer. To do this, the wind barrier film (membrane) is nailed to the sheathing bars with strips 3-5 cm wide, and siding or block house is attached to them. By the way, the walls of the attic are sheathed in a similar way, only on the inside. What a proper insulation pie, installed with your own hands, looks like is shown in the diagram:

Conclusion

The conclusion that arises from all of the above is this: for external insulation of private houses, you should not use rolled mineral wool insulation and low-density polystyrene foam (below 25 kg/m3). The best option remains - mineral wool and polymers in slabs. As for thermal insulation methods, it is better to insulate permanent stone buildings using the technology of applying plaster, and leave wooden sheathing for wooden houses, including country houses.

When calculating the heat loss of a house, it was found that losses through walls average about 40% of heat, through the roof - 25%, through windows - 20% and through ventilation - 15%. According to this simple scheme, the need becomes clear high-quality insulation walls The technology of external wall insulation provides maximum protection of the building from heat loss through the walls, due to the fact that it absorbs the cold influence environment.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The advantages of external insulation are space saving interior spaces buildings, protecting the wall from cooling, increasing the service life of walls made of frame material. With external insulation of walls, the load on load-bearing walls does not increase, therefore the pressure on the foundation will remain the same.

A separate and very significant advantage of external insulation is the protection of the wall from freezing. The bottom line is that with internal thermal insulation, heat loss from inside the house is limited, but the wall itself still freezes at low air temperatures. Between internal wall and a layer of heat-insulating material forms a steam condensation zone, which creates conditions for the development of mold and fungi, and additional cooling of the wall occurs due to moisture.

The internal insulation that has accumulated moisture does not dry out completely even in summer; a constant zone of moisture accumulation is created, which negatively affects the service life of the walls. With external insulation, the dew point, that is, the point of steam condensation, moves into the thermal insulation material. A wall insulated from the outside does not cool down and the heat lasts much longer, and its losses are minimized. External insulation easily loses accumulated moisture, thanks to which its thermal insulation properties are easily restored and the service life of the walls increases.

Another important advantage of external thermal insulation is the soundproofing qualities of insulation materials. If in the private sector this is not so important, then in a big city this quality plays an important role.

Types of thermal insulation board materials

The main materials for the production of boards used in external thermal insulation are mineral wool and expanded polystyrene - commonly referred to as polystyrene foam. You need to pay special attention to the qualities of these materials when choosing thermal insulation boards.

Mineral wool

It got its name because it consists of artificial mineral fibers. Cotton wool is divided into types depending on the origin of the raw materials from which it is made. Stone mineral wool is made from various rocks - diabase, limestone, basalt, clay, dolomite, etc. Slag wool is made from blast furnace, open-hearth and other slags, including non-ferrous metallurgy slags.

Mineral wool insulation has a fibrous structure with a synthetic binder. Mineral wool products are produced in the form of slabs and mats. The thermal insulation layer of the slabs ranges from 50 to 100 mm. The mats are used for installing insulation on large working areas.

The advantages of mineral wool are good thermal insulation properties and non-flammability. It is also very moisture-resistant, resistant to damage - it does not decompose under the influence of dampness or insects. Basalt wool resistant to rotting, temperature changes and vapor permeable. In addition, mineral wool is easy to install.

Glass wool

This material is similar in properties to mineral wool, but is made from waste from glass production. It has increased temperature resistance. When working with glass wool, you need to be especially careful, be sure to wear gloves, and avoid getting particles of the material on your mucous membranes and especially your eyes.

Expanded polystyrene

This material consists of small moisture-resistant granules, which, under the influence of high temperatures, combine with each other into a cellular structure. The foam granules themselves have a huge number of microcells, which is why polystyrene foam boards by volume consist of 98% air. The material is the cheapest of those currently on the market and is easy to use. Expanded polystyrene boards have a thickness of 50 to 100 mm. Foam plastic is also reliable because it is moisture resistant, so rotting processes do not begin in it.

Expanded polystyrene comes in two types - extruded and expanded. The first cut view has a fine closed cellular structure. It is more often used for thermal insulation of enclosing structures, insulation of walls of damp basements, garages, and other outbuildings. Expanded polystyrene foam has larger ball-like granules. In general, polystyrene foam has become the most popular thermal insulator due to its affordability and ease of installation. When installing this heat insulator, it is imperative to use plaster or cladding; it cannot be used in an open form.

External insulation methods

There are two main types of installation of external thermal insulation:

In our latitudes, the first method has gained great popularity, mainly because installing suspended thermal insulation is technologically more complex, more expensive in material terms, and requires specialist advice. Installing bonded thermal insulation is much easier; there is only a seasonal limitation - such work can be performed at an ambient temperature of at least +5C.

Bonded external insulation is the most pragmatic option

The option of bonded thermal insulation is very popular in European countries and is gradually becoming more widespread in our country. This method allows you to reduce heat loss through the walls of a building by 80% of the original level, which significantly saves money on energy resources.

The principle of this system is to install a monolithic multilayer enclosing structure, which becomes a shield in relation to the external environment. In addition to protection against heat loss, these structures eliminate so-called cold bridges in insulating structures, do not increase the load on the foundation, and ensure maintainability.

A bonded thermal insulation system can be used on buildings with any type of structure - block, brick, panel, frame-monolithic. For optimal performance of the thermal insulation structure, the requirements for the process technology and the quality of the materials themselves must be met.

Bonded insulation installation process

The bonded thermal insulation system is installed in several layers:

1. insulation – heat-insulating material in the form of a plate;
2. reinforcement – ​​mesh, resistant to alkalis and coated with a mineral-based adhesive;
3. protective and decorative layer – plaster and primer.

Each of these layers has its own specific function. The meaning of installing heat-insulating boards is clear, the reinforced layer allows adhesion of the plaster and the heat-insulating board, the primer protects the materials from environmental influences and performs its own aesthetic function.

Before installing insulation, the wall must be properly prepared. Preparation includes cleaning from dirt and dust, old plaster, eliminating irregularities so that the insulation adheres to the surface as tightly as possible. Polymer cement glue is applied to the prepared base, that is, the surface of the insulated wall. The adhesive should be chosen that is frost-resistant and has high adhesive ability to different types of slabs. The adhesion index of the adhesive to the concrete wall must be at least 1.0 MPa.

Fastening polystyrene foam boards

The insulation is attached to the glue and secured with dowels. According to experts in this field, there are no small details in thermal insulation systems. The dowels must be strong enough to withstand the load of the insulation system and the force of the wind. There are 2 types of screw dowels: with a regular spacer zone, 50 mm in length, and with an extended zone, 90 mm in length. Dowels with a regular spacer zone are used to secure insulation to concrete and brick walls Oh. Options with an extended spacer zone are more suitable for walls made of hollow bricks and lightweight concrete. Dowels with a head diameter of at least 60 mm are selected.

Insulation boards can be made from various materials, on which the installation process itself will depend. Materials for the production of boards are mineral wool, glass wool, expanded polystyrene. The latter material has such an unfavorable property in construction as flammability, but in Lately Non-flammable types of expanded polystyrene have already begun to appear. This is worth paying attention to when choosing materials.

After applying the glue to the wall, the slabs begin to be attached. The glue is applied in sufficient quantity to fill all the irregularities. The insulation board must be pressed tightly against the wall, while some of the glue is squeezed out from under it and gets under the adjacent boards, thereby strengthening the joints. Openings between the slabs can be eliminated using polyurethane foam. If the opening is large, a strip of polystyrene foam is glued in there, for example. Then the plates are fixed with dowels at the corners. The dowel heads and all joints between the plates must be covered with mastic.

The next step in the process is to install the reinforcing layer. Essentially it is a mesh made of fiberglass, sometimes metal. An adhesive composition is applied to the slabs, pre-prepared pieces of mesh are embedded in the glue, pressed against the slabs, and then pulled. They try to attach the pieces of mesh overlapping for reliability. After the glue has dried, it is cleaned, leveled and the decorative layer begins to be applied. Most often this is decorative plaster, on top of which the entire structure is painted. The paint chosen is weather-resistant.

Insulation of external walls by spraying polyurethane foam

Wall insulation with polyurethane foam is today one of the modern methods solving the issue of heat saving. Polyurethane foam has many advantages over other materials for thermal insulation. This material is prepared right before spraying onto the insulated wall.

Advantages of this material:

• high quality of adhesion to the surface in any configuration;
• the absence of seams during the work process - this significantly saves time, improves the quality of insulation, and strengthens the wall itself;
• low thermal conductivity - a layer of polyurethane foam 5 cm thick is similar in its ability to retain heat to a layer of 8 cm of polystyrene foam or 15 cm of mineral wool;
• light weight of the material in its finished applied form - this does not create additional load on the foundation;
• compressive and tensile strength of the material;
• no need for a vapor barrier layer - the material is so airtight in its structure that it takes on the functions of a vapor barrier;
• windproofing properties;
• low moisture absorption - the material practically does not absorb it even in the wettest weather;
• non-toxic;
• good sound insulation characteristics.

PPU and its application

Spraying polyurethane foam is the application of a layer of heat-insulating polymer on a surface with any relief, followed by hardening. In a special device, two polymers are mixed - polyisocyanate and polyol, they are foamed with carbon dioxide and simultaneously heated to high numbers, and the resulting mixture is fed into the spray gun or into the mixer. Through a sprayer, the mixture is sprayed onto the working surfaces under pressure. Filling is carried out in certain ready-made forms, after hardening, the material is removed and used according to the purposes.

Wall insulation process

Insulation of walls with polyurethane foam from the outside is carried out in several stages: preparation of walls, application of polyurethane foam, application of reinforcing screed, final finishing.

Preparing walls means cleaning them from old coating, plaster, dust, anything that can reduce the adhesion of the material to the wall. Polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the cleaned surface, and the thickness of its application can be adjusted, thus leveling the depressions and protrusions.

Then a reinforcing screed is applied to the surface of the heat insulation layer; a fine fiberglass mesh is used for this. The thickness of the reinforcement layer must be at least 60 mm. Then you can lay Decoration Materials– siding, lining, panels, paint.

Before spraying itself, you need to think about protecting all surrounding surfaces from unnecessary application of material, because it is very difficult to clean polyurethane foam even with strong solvents.

Warm plaster for external insulation of facades

Warm plaster is a cement-based mixture with the addition of filler. The latter can be vermiculite - a light mineral filler, elements of polystyrene foam, and also sawdust. Warm plaster with sawdust in its composition is not suitable for facades and is used only for interior decoration. Compositions for finishing facades include polystyrene foam, pumice powder, and expanded clay chips as fillers.

When choosing insulation, several of its properties are taken into account: thermal conductivity, which must be low to retain heat, hydrophobicity to prevent moisture from entering, vapor permeability - so that the layer of material allows water vapor to pass through and does not condense. The presence of porous materials helps warm plaster retain its ability to “breathe” and allow moisture and air to pass through.

Warm plaster combines all the necessary qualities. It does not accumulate moisture, is durable, fire-resistant, and environmentally friendly. As an insulation material, it can be used for finishing facades, including those decorated with decorative elements that need to be preserved, for insulating slopes, filling joints and cracks, and masonry.

Application of warm plaster

Warm plaster is quickly applied, does not require the use of reinforcing mesh (although in some methods it is used for greater insulation strength), does not require leveling the wall, since it is quite plastic in texture and leveling can be done directly with the material itself. Warm plaster is adhesive to all building construction materials, biologically stable, and vapor permeable.

The technique for applying such plaster does not differ from conventional plastering technology. For greater smoothness, the wall can be additionally sanded with an emery cloth or putty.

In what cases can warm plaster be used?

If you pay attention to expanded polystyrene, which has a lot of positive properties and is also convenient to use, you need to know that insulation systems using polystyrene are prohibited from being used in some cases, for example, when insulating buildings with increased fire safety requirements - hospitals, schools, kindergartens, car washes etc. Expanded polystyrene has low vapor permeability, due to which moisture will accumulate in the room. For some purposes this may be a plus.

Unlike this material, warm plaster is non-toxic, non-flammable, and has high vapor permeability. Use it on buildings of medical institutions, public buildings child profile is quite possible. It is suitable for complex facades; the contours of uneven surfaces do not appear through it, as through a polystyrene foam layer. Warm plaster can both insulate and give an aesthetic and beautiful appearance to the room.

Warm plaster is multifunctional; it is suitable not only for insulating walls, but also for floor screeding, sealing seams, potholes, and cracks. It can be used to fill the slabs of flat roofs. It can also be used to fill floors, simultaneously preparing them for floor coverings and providing thermal insulation.

Disadvantages of this method

Flaws warm plaster is that she can't be finishing coat, you need to apply primer and paint on top of it. It cannot be a sanitizing material, so the surface must be dry before applying it. Sound insulation after its application is also insignificant.

It must be taken into account that warm plaster has a much higher density compared to the same polystyrene foam or mineral wool, and this figure is 5-10 times higher. Therefore, insulation using this method requires a solid foundation that can withstand such a load. Further, the thermal conductivity coefficient of this type of plaster is 1.5-2 times higher than that of other materials, so the insulation layer should be the same 1.5-2 times thicker. And since it can be applied in a layer of no more than 50 mm, it will have to be insulated both outside and inside for better heat retention.

One way or another, the decision in each specific situation can be made individually. Advantages and disadvantages are very relative things. And warmth in the house is an eternal concept.

Finishing coatings for external wall insulation

There are no trifles when insulating walls - this is what experts working in this field say. Plaster, reinforcing mesh, dowels, paints - all these are the little things that you should pay attention to in the same way as the main materials for insulating the facade.

Reinforcing mesh

Glass mesh is most often used as the basis for the reinforcing layer, the cell size is 5X5 mm and weighs from 1500 to 200 g/m2. The mesh must be treated with a special compound that is resistant to alkalis. In the corners of the building, in places where the thermal insulation layer is adjacent to architectural details - cornices, parapets - here experts advise reinforcing not with glass, but with a metal mesh with greater rigidity. This is done in order to strengthen the entire insulating structure.

You need to take a responsible approach to the quality of the adhesive compositions you choose. The manufacturer recommends a certain brand of glue with a composition that will best ensure the fastening of certain materials. Trying to replace with cheaper options can sometimes be too expensive - even redoing the facade.

Plasters

The requirements for plaster are very strict, since it is this material that is exposed to all the influences of the external environment - temperature fluctuations, humidity, and the action of chemical compounds that are in the air. The outer layer must be resistant to all kinds of influences and be vapor permeable, not retain moisture in the thickness of the insulation.

Thin-layer decorative plasters and facade paints are divided into 4 groups:

Polymer-cement plasters have high vapor permeability; these are the so-called “breathing” options. They are non-flammable, adhesive to mineral bases, adhesive coefficient of at least 1.0 MPa, and frost-resistant. They are used for insulation with polystyrene and mineral wool. Economical to use.

Thanks to their synthetic base, acrylic plasters are quite elastic and resistant to deformation. They are used for insulation with expanded polystyrene. They are resistant to high humidity, absorb moisture very weakly even in conditions of constant rainfall. Available in a wide range color scheme, after release they are immediately ready for use.

Silicate plasters are also resistant to deformation, have high vapor permeability, and big choice colors. Silicone plasters are resistant to precipitation and hydrophobic. Surfaces treated with them are slightly dirty. This quality can be used when finishing houses in large industrial cities.

In addition to composition, decorative plasters have different textures. The texture depends on the grain size of the plaster. For example, the “bark beetle” texture has a grain size of 2-3.5 mm, making the surfaces resemble tree bark. Mosaic plasters have a grain size of 0.8-2 mm. The filler in these plasters is colored quartz sand or small pebbles. When this plaster hardens, it resembles a glass surface.

Finishing work must be carried out at a temperature not lower than +5 C, and within 24 hours the temperature should not fall below 0 C. It is forbidden to apply plaster in strong winds, in the open sun, or in the rain, since plaster needs certain conditions for it to dry so that it lasts longer.

The requirements for facade paints are similar to those for plaster - wear resistance under the influence of high and low temperatures, moisture, sunlight, and so on. The service life of enamels on the market based on organosilicon resins is about 30 years, polyurea – more than 50 years. By selecting facade paint That's right, you can save a lot on periodic re-painting.

External thermal insulation of wooden houses

Wood is considered the most environmentally friendly material for building houses, although now such construction can mainly be found only in the private sector. For external insulation of wooden structures, thermal insulation with protective and ventilating properties is used, and for ventilation, a gap is provided between the outer skin and the insulation.

Thermal insulation installation process

Thermal insulation wooden building consists of the following elements:

Before starting work on thermal insulation of the house, you need to treat the surface of the walls with an antiseptic and a fire retardant - a drug that prevents fire. Existing cracks must be closed and caulked with tow or foam. Then the sheathing is installed on the wall.

For the sheathing you need wooden beams, which are pre-impregnated with an antiseptic to prevent rotting. The thickness of the beams is 50 mm, their width should exceed the thickness of the insulating material. For example, with a thickness of insulation material of 80 mm, the thickness of the beams must be at least 100 mm to ensure an air gap. The distance between the beams is made according to the size of the selected insulation, that is, according to the width of the slab. Insulation boards are laid in the openings between the beams, then attached to load-bearing wall using anchors.

Vapor barrier

Before laying the insulation, a vapor barrier layer is installed. Vapor barrier materials are chosen according to the type of structure and installation method. The vapor barrier materials themselves come in the following types:

1. aluminum foil with a layer of polyethylene;
2. polyethylene reinforcing mesh covered with film;
3. polymer-coated kraft paper;
4. kraft paper with aluminum foil;
5. polymer fabric with double-sided lamination.

The vapor barrier can be installed both vertically and horizontally with inside thermal insulation structure. Installation is done using galvanized nails or a stapler. The seams of the vapor barrier layer must be completely sealed, the film must be intact, otherwise the movement of water vapor will be allowed, and moisture will accumulate inside the structure. The seams between pieces of vapor barrier are sealed with special tapes based on butyl rubber. Also, strips of material can be laid overlapping.

Next in the process, insulation boards, polystyrene foam or mineral wool are installed, in the direction from bottom to top, the insulation is secured with a mushroom dowel. Waterproofing is mounted on the insulation - a special membrane, which is secured using construction stapler. These can be materials such as: a combined polymer, a film based on kraft paper coated with aluminum, impregnated kraft paper, three-layer polypropylene. It is necessary to observe the location of the front and back sides of the material, otherwise, instead of insulating, it will turn into moisture permeable, which will lead to dampness.

The final stage is fastening the 50X50 mm timber with nails and covering the surface. You can line it with clapboard, plastic siding, facade panels to choose from. A mandatory gap of 2-4 cm is left between the layer of waterproofing and cladding.

External wall insulation, insulation methods and types of materials

External insulation: advantages and methods. Types of materials for thermal insulation boards. Bonded external thermal insulation and spray polyurethane foam.

Insulation of walls outside a house or apartment - types and choice of insulation, do-it-yourself installation

The facade of residential buildings cannot always withstand winter frosts and piercing winds, which is why it feels cold inside the room. Insulating the outside of your home will help protect the building from moisture, keeping hot air indoors. In the article you will learn what insulating walls outside is, how to increase the temperature inside a wooden house, and what is the difference between thermal insulation with mineral wool and polystyrene foam.

What is wall insulation

A common method of energy saving is insulation - thermal insulation for walls outside or inside a building, made with special materials. By insulating the façade of your apartment, you will get rid of fungus, increase protection from noise, and improve thermoregulation - the room will be cool in summer and warm in winter. Insulation not only becomes a barrier between cold air and the internal microclimate of the home, but also protects the building from moisture and sun, increasing its service life.

Methods for insulating walls outside

There are internal and external insulation walls of the house. The second type of thermal insulation is more effective than the first, since it does not reduce the area of ​​the room, removes condensation from the internal walls, and retains heat longer. There are four methods of facade thermal insulation:

1. facing – a method that combines thermal insulation with decorative finishing;
2. hinged - an expensive method that uses insulated structures made of steel sheets and a layer of cladding (plastic siding, wooden lining, blockhouse);
3. “wet” - a method that involves attaching foam plastic to the facade using glue, applying a mesh, finishing primer and plaster;
4. spraying liquid insulation - polyurethane foam is sprayed onto the facade, a decorative coating or hanging panels are applied to it.

Insulation of the house

Up to 50% of home heat escapes through the wall facade, so insulating houses is a necessary procedure for those who want to maintain a comfortable microclimate in their home and save on electricity. When choosing insulation for the walls of a house outside, you should focus on the wall material, since for concrete, brick, wood and block structures are used different technologies thermal insulation. It is cheaper to thermally insulate a private house than an apartment in a multi-storey building.

Insulation of apartments

If you live in apartment building with a central heating system, insulating the apartment from the outside is the best option, which will help avoid additional costs for maintaining a comfortable temperature in the room using electricity. By insulating an apartment, you can solve the problem of sealing seams in panel high-rise buildings. Not all residents of a multi-storey building agree to insulate their home, so often apartments are insulated spot-on, which can lead to the destruction of the main wall at the joints with the insulated surface.

Insulation for walls

You should choose the right materials for insulating the walls outside, taking into account what the building is built from, how many floors it has, and the climatic features of the area. The microclimate of the room depends entirely on the choice of materials and quality of installation. Insulation materials are distinguished according to the following criteria:

• thermal conductivity;
• durability;
• fire resistance;
• soundproofing;
• airtightness;
• waterproof;
• environmental safety;
• biostability.

External insulation gives the desired result only if the thermal insulation materials fit tightly to the frame of the room, without air gaps. There are the following types of insulation for external walls:

Foam insulation

Wall insulation with foam plastic is gaining more and more popularity. This light material, inexpensive, easy to use. The obvious advantages of polystyrene foam are moisture resistance, high sound insulation, and excellent thermal insulation properties. The disadvantages of the material are the ability to ignite with the release toxic substances, fragility, poor breathability. Before installation, you need to draw horizontal lines of the working surface, which will become the lower and upper edges of the insulation placement. The foam is fixed to a special adhesive solution.

Insulation with mineral wool

A common method of thermal insulation is to insulate walls with mineral wool. This is a fibrous material made from mineral raw materials, non-flammable, and highly breathable. Mineral wool is suitable for installation on all types of building structures. The material is resistant to caustic substances, but absorbs water, so it requires a special waterproofing system. Mineral wool has a long service life - up to 70 years.

Insulation with polystyrene foam

One of the best ways thermal insulation is considered to be the insulation of a building from the outside with pressed polystyrene foam, the second name of which is “penoplex”. The material is slightly denser than polystyrene foam, less flammable, and durable. Expanded polystyrene is waterproof and resistant to deformation. One of the disadvantages is poor sound insulation. Penoplex is available in the form of slabs, which must be fixed without gaps to protect the insulation from damage by rodents.

Insulation of walls with polyurethane foam

Thermal insulation of the house from the outside with polyurethane foam is carried out by spraying the material onto the prepared facade. Using this substance as insulation has the following advantages:

• the material, expanding, fills cracks and small depressions;
• polyurethane foam has good adhesion - it fits perfectly to the base, covering the surface without joints, with a continuous layer;
• the substance becomes durable after hardening;
• it has increased moisture resistance;
• polyurethane foam serves as an excellent sound insulator.

Insulation with basalt slabs

Reliable insulation of the external walls of the house is provided by environmentally friendly basalt slabs made from mineral wool. The material does not ignite, has excellent windproof and cold-resistant abilities, and does not accumulate moisture. Thermal insulation with basalt slabs allows for almost any façade finishing. Installation of the material has a simple technology, so you can do it yourself. The external thickness of the material is deceptive - you can even cut it with a kitchen knife.

How to insulate a house from the outside and with what

External wall insulation will significantly reduce heat loss indoors. The choice of materials and thermal insulation technology depends on specific conditions - the house is made of brick or wood, the attic or ground floor will be insulated. By insulating the facade correctly, you will make your home warm, protect the room from the formation of fungus, mold, dampness and isolate your home from extraneous street noise.

How to insulate wooden house outside and what

A house made of wood has some advantages over a stone house or a brick building - the cost is lower, the environmental friendliness is higher. The main disadvantages are: low thermal conductivity of the timber, small thickness of the walls and the presence of gaps between them. Insulation of the walls of a wooden house can be done by constructing a hinged ventilation facade with mineral wool, spraying polyurethane or covering the facade with polystyrene foam. Insulating Vacation home made of wood, you need to take care of the vapor barrier layer and waterproofing. Insulation for the external walls of a house will allow you to:

• transform the facade;
• protect the tree from the adverse effects of the environment;
• increase thermal efficiency;
• save interior space;
• prevent the occurrence of dampness and mold;
• protect from cold winds.

Insulation of a brick house from the outside using modern methods

In order to maintain a stable, comfortable temperature in the house throughout the year, it is recommended to insulate the brick walls from the outside. When choosing insulation, you should take into account what kind of brick the building is built from (hollow, solid, ceramic, silicate). Brick houses are often insulated using the hinged ventilated facade method or the “wet” method. Mineral wool, polystyrene foam, and expanded polystyrene are used as insulation.

How to insulate the outside walls of a house inexpensively

People often wonder how to cheaply insulate a house from the outside. If you don’t know how cheaper it is to insulate a house from the outside, pay attention to polystyrene foam. This insulation may be slightly inferior to others in thermal insulation capabilities, but it does a good job of maintaining a comfortable temperature. The material has excellent thermal conductivity and moisture resistance, its main disadvantage is flammability. Working with polystyrene foam is easy, so you can buy the material and try to insulate your home yourself, also saving on paying for the work of craftsmen.

Price for external wall insulation

Thermal insulation of a home is not a cheap pleasure. If you calculate the costs of heating a building with electricity, it becomes clear that the price of the service will soon pay for itself. The cost of thermal insulation is calculated taking into account the selected materials, the complexity of the work, and the size of the insulated area. Find out in the table below how much it costs to insulate a house outside in Moscow, and how the price of the service differs in different construction companies.

Insulation of walls outside a house or apartment - types and choice of insulation, installation technology with video

Insulating walls outside is an opportunity to create a comfortable microclimate in the house. Find out about the types of insulation, methods of thermal insulation and prices, use the tips from the video.

External wall insulation advantages and disadvantages

Today, walking along the street, you are unlikely to find at least one house where external wall insulation has not yet been carried out. The result of such work is easily recognizable - the home in some areas is “sheathed” with colored foam plastic boards. Recently, the number of apartments whose owners have decided to resort to this method has been increasing. Let's understand the principle of external insulation, find out the reasons for its popularity, as well as the pros and cons of this type of work.

The problem of heat and moisture insulation

Now more and more residents are faced with the problem of heat and moisture insulation. This mainly applies to old houses, the service life of which is more than 20 years, because new buildings are usually delivered with insulation. As a result of such problems, in winter the temperature in the apartment drops sharply, which leads to increased heating costs. In summer, on the contrary, the room is stuffy, the air is hot and stale. Also, due to the accumulation of moisture, mold or fungal formations may appear on the walls, which are quite difficult to combat.

External wall insulation

One of the most common solutions is external (external) wall insulation . Now we will look at the main advantages and disadvantages of this method, but first we should understand a little about its essence.

How is external wall insulation carried out?

So, how is external wall insulation carried out? The main element of the insulating structure, as a rule, is expanded polystyrene (foam plastic). Experts in the field of industrial mountaineering paste the walls of apartments with slabs of this material. In addition to foam plastic, waterproofing fiberglass mesh, glue, primer, paint and dowels are also used for insulation. The insulation technology consists of several (5-7) stages, and the entire process takes from one to five days (mostly, the duration is explained required quantity time for the glue to dry at intermediate stages). First, the working surface is prepared - cleaning and priming the walls. Then, in fact, the foam is fixed. The next step is to install reinforced mesh, which is covered with an adhesive mixture. At the end, the walls are primed, plastered and painted.

Advantages of external wall insulation

The main advantages of external wall insulation include, first of all, the ability to eliminate the problems listed at the beginning of the article. That is, after high-quality insulation, the temperature in your apartment will stabilize (it will become warm in winter, cool in summer), which means that the costs of heating and cooling rooms will be reduced; Troubles associated with moisture removal will disappear (wallpaper will stop coming off and paint will stop crumbling, dampness, mold and mildew will disappear). Expanded polystyrene prevents corrosion of steel reinforcement and destruction of concrete by limiting access to the walls of water, carbon dioxide and other aggressive substances, and by preventing temperature changes, the durability of insulated walls increases.

Additional advantages include a significant improvement in sound insulation (in particular, up to 90-95% of extraneous street noise disappears) and a more respectable appearance.

Also, after external insulation of the walls, unlike a similar internal version, the living space of the room is not reduced (which, with internal insulation, can be reduced by up to 5% of the entire apartment).

Disadvantages of external wall insulation

It should be immediately noted that the number of shortcomings directly depends on the quality of the materials used for insulation and on compliance with the rules for performing the work. Therefore, shortcomings are considered in the classic case - when the work is done “according to instructions”. Simply put, craftsman errors or expired glue will not be taken into account.

The main disadvantage is the impossibility of carrying out external insulation of walls at any time. The following conditions must be met: air temperature of at least 5 degrees C, and preferably from 20 degrees C, air humidity of approximately 60% (it is advisable to carry out work in summer in hot weather, it is strictly forbidden to do this in winter at sub-zero temperatures); absence of strong gusts of wind, due to which the glue or primer dries too quickly and cracks may form; and, of course, there should be no precipitation during the entire period of work.

As already mentioned, external insulation of walls is a rather lengthy process, moreover, requiring not the easiest work of industrial mountaineering masters. Agree, for several days in a row watching how strangers hanging in front of your windows is quite a sight.

A separate drawback is the price. At total area an insulated surface of 15-25 m2 and an average cost of 650 rubles (220 UAH)/m2, all work will cost approximately 10,000-17,000 rubles (3,500-5,500 UAH). True, the costs are recouped in about 5 years.

So if you are not worried that after a long wait you will shell out a tidy sum, and the walls of your apartment will stand out in green, pink, blue or other colors against the background of the rest of the nondescript house, if you are tired of struggling with temperature and humidity, and are sure that the outside wall insulation is exactly what you need, then feel free to choose the right company. Fortunately, there are plenty to choose from.

External wall insulation advantages and disadvantages photos and videos

// Contents[Hide]The problem of heat and moisture insulation External wall insulation How is external wall insulation carried out? Advantages of external insulation...

Guide to external wall insulation

• • Choice of insulation
  • Surface preparation
  • How to attach insulation
  • Insulation reinforcement

For external wall insulation there are different variants execution. External wall insulation is classified according to the selected insulation material and the method of manufacturing the heat-insulating layer. The thermal insulation layer can be ventilated, covered entirely with the outer wall, or only plastered.

It is best to insulate the walls from the outside during the construction phase of the building.

There are enough insulation materials to choose the one you need. The difference in the labor intensity of processes actually does not determine the quality of work so significantly that it is always necessary to use hired labor.

You can easily do external insulation with your own hands if you know what stages this process consists of.

Self-insulation of walls

Doing external insulation with your own hands with a ventilated façade structure is much more difficult than using a multi-layer wall or insulation with plastering and finishing for painting. Since a multilayer wall involves installing an additional wall on top of the insulation, for example, brickwork, which requires knowledge of certain nuances, you should consider the most affordable, but no less functional and quality option: insulate the external walls of the house using insulation and finishing. First you need to choose insulation that will provide required characteristics thermal conductivity for walls.

Choice of insulation

Insulation of walls with foam plastic.

Insulation is the main part of external wall insulation, but in this process, if you want to do the insulation yourself, you will not need to think long about the choice, and this is a rather pleasant fact. Insulation materials currently offered, such as

• mineral wool;
• expanded polystyrene;
• extruded polystyrene foam;
• cellulose insulation;
• basalt slabs.

have indistinguishable characteristics. The main difference between them lies in three basic parameters: thermal conductivity, vapor permeability and moisture resistance.

Different insulation materials have different parameters, which may differ depending on the manufacturer. In this regard, you will need to make calculations of the heat emitted by the building and understand what thickness of insulation to use. Expanded polystyrene and mineral wool require less thickness, and it is much easier to install them yourself.

Thermal conductivity parameters are indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer, and if you provide the sellers with the parameters of your own insulated building (material and thickness of walls, heating, presence of windows, floors used, foundation), then they will be able to calculate the required amount of insulation for you. As for vapor permeability and moisture resistance, you should focus on weather conditions, that is, determine how significant changes in moisture and temperature are throughout the year and choose the best option for you.

Surface preparation

External wall insulation scheme.

In order to secure the insulation, specialized adhesive mixtures are used to ensure the necessary adhesion. Accordingly, at the preparatory stage it is necessary not so much to create adhesion for the walls, but simply to level them so that the insulation fits fairly evenly and no significant differences are created between the seams.

As a rule, the walls of every house are more or less smooth and do not require extensive sanding. If the differences are insignificant, then additional leveling is not required, because subsequent layers of plaster and finishing will level this out. If there are significant distortions, additional tools should be used to prepare the surface, for example, simply grinding discs.

A primer is applied to the surface of the leveled external walls. If the walls have unevenness, it is advisable to use a couple of layers, and apply the next layer only after the initial one has dried.

Any mixtures that contain water change their qualities depending on the temperature. This also applies to adhesive mixtures on which insulation is placed. It is important to take this fact into account and perform work only at an air temperature of five degrees Celsius.

How to attach insulation

Scheme of cutting a wall insulated with foam plastic.

When the primer on the walls of the house is completely dry, layers of thermal insulation should be laid. To install the bottom layer, you will need to secure a metal guide around the perimeter of the walls, which is installed approximately above the base of the building. For fastening, use anchors or dowels (depending on the availability of certain tools you have and the quality of the walls).

Next, they begin installing the house’s insulation, a description of which is offered below. Mix the adhesive mixture (consultants who helped you choose insulation and other materials and components will help you in choosing) and install thermal insulation plates. For example, you can take foam plastic, which is easy to install with your own hands and does not require any extraordinary skills.

The adhesive mixture is applied only to foam plastic (or other insulation), but not to walls. An indent of a couple of centimeters is made from the edges, and the mixture is evenly distributed around the perimeter, and in the center of the resulting contour, 2-3 piles of the mixture are made using a spatula with a diameter of about 100-120 millimeters. Such tiles are applied to the walls of the house and subsequent ones continue to be applied using this technology.

What is great about materials such as polystyrene foam and mineral wool is their ease of molding. Cutting a piece to the size you need is not difficult, and this is good, given the need to make a fire-resistant mineral wool contour around the perimeter of the windows.

When laying polystyrene foam, you should leave about twenty centimeters to the perimeter of the windows and this perimeter should be made of mineral wool in an identical manner to the previously described method. Of course, if you use fire-resistant materials for all insulation, then you will not need this. Such contours are used only if insulation is done with flammable material, as this complies with existing standards.

To ensure that the external thermal insulation of the walls is strong, dowels with a pressing element are additionally used (this is a plastic circle that allows you to press greatest number insulation with dowel). Dowels should be installed at least between the seams of the foam so that the panels fit tightly. First, holes for the length of the dowel are drilled in the walls of the house through the materials used, and then they are driven in with a hammer.

To ensure that the insulation of the outer wall is not subject to deformation from external influences, the external slopes are additionally reinforced with perforated metal angles. The angles are fixed to the adhesive mixture that was used to fix the materials.

Insulation reinforcement

The next stage of insulation is reinforcement, for which a specialized fiberglass reinforcing mesh is used. First, make a layer of adhesive mixture, and then carefully apply the mesh with your own hands over the entire space of the insulation. Moreover, the mesh should be drowned in the adhesive mixture, and the seams should only be overlapped.

The reinforced surface is covered with a new layer of glue and carefully smoothed. So the reinforcing mesh does not protrude above the surface and is located deep in the adhesive mass.

The final stage of external insulation

As a rule, it takes about a couple of days for the reinforcing layer to dry completely. Next, the surface is primed and putty for painting or decorative plaster is applied, depending on the type of further finishing.

Making external wall insulation with your own hands is quite simple, and for this process you will need no more than a week, and also available materials, which are easy to purchase in a specialized store, and a minimum of skills.

Do-it-yourself external wall insulation: guide (photos and videos)

How to do external insulation of the walls of a house with your own hands? How to choose the highest quality and most affordable method, select materials for thermal insulation and install them?

Insulating walls is an operation that is designed to solve several problems at once.

Firstly, in this way errors in calculations can be corrected when designing a house when the walls do not have the required thickness and do not cope with heat-saving functions.

Secondly, insulation can be initially included in the house design as part of the construction plan, reducing material consumption and increasing functionality external walls.

There are two insulation options that should be considered carefully.

Two types of wall insulation are used:

• Outside.

Comparing these options with each other is not entirely correct., since the process of insulating a wall is literally possible only if the insulation is located externally.

The outer wall of a house performs three main functions:

• Mechanical barrier to protect against penetration into the premises.
• Load-bearing structure of the building.
• Barrier to outside cold air.

Thus, when the insulation is placed outside, all the working functions of the wall are preserved, plus an additional barrier appears that eliminates contact with cold air, which is why the internal heat does not dissipate into the atmosphere. Accordingly, the temperature of the wall increases, dew point moves outward, the process of moisture condensation and wetting of the material stops. All problems are solved in the most effective way.

Comparison of insulation methods

When the insulation is placed internally, the wall completely ceases to perform heat-saving functions, remaining only load-bearing structure and an obstacle. The fact is that the wall is not insulated from the inside, but, on the contrary, is cut off from contact with warm internal air. Its temperature sometimes drops to the point of equalization with the outside, which creates a lot of problems for organizing the removal of steam from the interior of the house.

If the insulation allows steam to pass through, the wall will definitely get wet, which is fraught with undesirable consequences. Solving this problem is a complex procedure, including the need to organize supply and exhaust ventilation, ensuring the most hermetically sealed shutoff of the internal atmosphere from contact with insulation, etc.

The presence of such problems quite eloquently convinces of the preferability of external insulation as an effective process, practically devoid of disadvantages or harmful consequences.

The most common insulating materials

Almost all commercially available insulation materials are suitable and common materials.

These include:

Minvata

The best option is, a dense fibrous material made from molten rock. It has high heat-saving qualities and conducts water vapor well, which is important for external wall insulation.

Does not promote the appearance of insects or rodents, does not burn. The disadvantage of the material is its ability to absorb moisture, requiring the organization of high-quality water protection.

Basalt wool

Foam plastic (PPS)

A material that is very popular due to its low price and very high heat-saving qualities. It consists of many small sealed granules filled with gas bubbles and welded into a single mass using hot steam.

It has a convenient manufacturing format, is easy to process and holds its shape well, which is very helpful during installation. Wherein, almost impervious to moisture or water vapor, which requires taking appropriate measures to remove it.

In addition, it is not elastic - it crumbles or breaks when deforming loads appear.

Styrofoam

Expanded polystyrene (EPS)

Chemically, the material is an analogue of foam plastic, but a different manufacturing technology significantly changes its characteristics.- a frozen foam mass that does not consist of individual particles, but is a continuous porous slab.

That's why EPS has almost zero permeability to water or steam. The heat-saving properties of the material are very high, it is durable, and is produced in the form of rigid slabs. At the same time, it is much more expensive than polystyrene foam, which somewhat reduces its use.

Expanded polystyrene

Polyurethane foam

How is insulation used? , which is applied by spraying using special equipment. Most useful property Polyurethane foam is able to be applied to the surface as densely and hermetically as possible, without the formation of cracks or gaps.

A layer of frozen foam is formed, quite dense and at the same time light, impermeable to either steam or water.. It is quite expensive, in addition, it requires equipment, as well as a specialist who knows how to work with polyurethane foam. It is used most often for internal application.

Polyurethane foam

Penoplex

A type of EPPS that has similar qualities to it, but is somewhat modernized. Different types are made - for walls, for foundations, etc. The material is ideal for insulation and waterproofing of buried areas of walls or structures; it has proven itself as an insulation material for interior work.

Available in the form of slabs of various thicknesses.

Penoplex

What material is best for wall insulation?

largely depends on the general climatic and atmospheric characteristics of the region, as well as on the material of the walls. The main selection criterion is the ratio of the vapor conductivity of the wall and the insulation, ensuring the unhindered passage of steam from one layer to another without the formation of accumulations or barriers.

NOTE!

The basic rule of insulation must be followed: the vapor permeability of materials should be maximum inside and decrease as you move out.

Compliance with this condition guarantees high-quality work wall pie, durability, preservation of the properties of wall materials and insulation.

Let's look at the most common wall options:

Foam concrete

This porous material easily conducts steam and absorbs moisture. Such properties determine the choice of insulation that can easily transmit steam - mineral wool. At the same time, it is necessary to provide high-quality external vapor and water protection, ensuring the removal of vapors to the outside and preventing moisture from penetrating inside.

The best choice would be a single-acting waterproof membrane.

Insulation foam concrete walls mineral wool

Wooden

From the point of view of insulation, wood is a reliable insulator in itself.. In this case, the risky areas are the joints of logs or beams, connecting planes and corner joints. The meaning of the entire procedure in this case is transferred to the plane of waterproofing and cutting off cracks.

Therefore, both mineral wool and polystyrene foam can be used as insulation., although in any case careful preparation of surfaces and, in particular, sealing of all cracks will be required. Without it positive result not guaranteed.

From time immemorial, Russian huts were saved by the presence stove heating- the draft carried away excess particles of steam, and the kindling mode contributed to this. Currently, high-quality ventilation of premises is required.

Insulation of wooden walls with mineral wool

Brick

Brick is the most dense material; of these, it is least capable of transmitting water vapor. At the same time, having maximum density, brick has a fairly high thermal conductivity and easily transfers heat to the environment.

Therefore, the most effective thermal insulator is required, capable of retaining heat and protecting the wall from external influences. The recommended material can be mineral wool, polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam (expanded polystyrene), moreover, mineral wool will require waterproofing, and foam plastic will create a risk of moisture accumulation at the outer wall-insulation boundary.

Thermal insulation using polyurethane foam

How to calculate the thickness of insulation?

The thickness of the external insulation can be calculated using several parameters:

• According to the location of the dew point.
• According to the thermal conductivity of the material.

Both methods require a lot of special data and are produced using complex formulas. Most importantly, such calculations do not take into account the impact of subtle effects that can change ongoing processes in completely unpredictable ways. Therefore, in practice, they usually use ready-made data from similar projects that have shown positive results in operation, or they use online calculators, of which a sufficient number are offered on the Internet.

Specifications

You just need to insert the necessary data and get the finished result. To be on the safe side, you should check it on several others to get the most accurate average.

How to avoid mistakes when insulating walls?

The cause of all errors is a lack of information about the technology and a poor understanding of the meaning of the actions performed. Therefore, you should study the issue as completely as possible, find out all the nuances of vaporization and finding the dew point.

In addition, it is necessary to carefully analyze the technological processes used to insulate walls in given conditions and on a given material, clarify all weak points and find out the most effective ways to eliminate them. Only after this should work begin.

Dew point

External thermal insulation of walls - the most successful and effective procedure. The main condition for success is right choice material and possession of the necessary knowledge, skills or other information. This approach guarantees high-quality and reliable insulation of external walls, creating a cozy atmosphere in the house.

Useful video

In this video you can watch an overview of modern types of thermal insulation:

In contact with

As soon as we decide to insulate the house, a huge pile of questions appears in our heads:

• How to insulate walls?
• How to insulate walls?
• Which is better to insulate, outside or inside?
• Will the house become warmer, and won’t I be throwing money away?

In this article I will try to answer all these questions in as much detail as possible, and also talk about the currently popular materials for insulation.

How to properly insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside

Try asking any builder how best to insulate the walls of a house, outside or inside? The answer will be obvious. Everyone knows that it is necessary to insulate walls from the outside, and resort to thermal insulation of walls from the inside only in extreme cases. But at the same time, not everyone knows why thermal insulation of walls from inside the house is so undesirable.

Let's try to figure it out. The diagram shows three states of the house wall, with insulation on the outside, on the inside, and without insulation at all:

In ordinary human language, the dew point is the place where water vapor turns into water, thereby creating condensation.

If you look at the diagram, you can see that to the left of the dew point there is a positive temperature, and to the right - a negative one.

When insulating from the inside:

1. The wall remains unprotected by home heat, since the heat barrier made of insulation will not allow it to pass into the wall. So she's in winter period will be largely exposed to frost, constant moisture, and will not have time to dry, since we blocked the path from the inside with insulation to the heat that previously protected the wall.
2. At the dew point, condensation collects (water vapor in the air is converted into water droplets), this point will be as close as possible to the room, which means that the formation of moisture in this place will be maximum. As already mentioned, the insulation from the inside will interfere with the natural drying of the wall.
3. The constant formation of condensation, without natural drying, can lead to the appearance of various types of fungi and mold on the wall. Don’t console yourself with the thought that the fungus is behind the insulation and nothing bad will happen. Mold and various kinds of green-black formations on the wall have a detrimental effect not only on the appearance, but also on the health of the residents of such a house.
4. If you look at the diagram, you can see that even without insulation, there will be less moisture on the wall from the inside than with insulation from the inside.

When insulating from outside:

1. From the street side, the wall is protected by insulation from the cold, and given the insulation technology, from moisture, and from the room side - by home heat, which warms up the wall sufficiently and, even in cases of various types of condensation and moisture absorption by the wall, will contribute to its rapid drying.
2. We move the dew point away from the room towards the street, which means that we also move the condensation away from the room.
3. Insulating the outside will significantly preserve warmth and comfort in your home.

I think it has now become clear to everyone why everyone refuses to insulate the walls of the house from the inside, and more and more often resort to insulation from the outside. And it is necessary to thermally insulate the walls on the side of the room only if there is no other way out.

How to properly insulate walls with expanded polystyrene and extruded polystyrene foam (EPS) from the outside

I described in detail about insulating walls with polystyrene foam in one of the previous articles. Here I will mention some main points.

Preparing the wall for installation of insulation

The first thing you need to do before insulating the walls with polystyrene foam or EPS is to clean the outside walls of the house from dirt, dust and, last but not least, level them. After this, they must be primed if you use glue to install the insulation.

If there are significant holes in the wall that you cannot level with glue, then after installing the insulation, a void may remain between the polystyrene foam board and the wall. And this is extremely undesirable, because even a slight blow or push on the insulation in the place where the hole is can deform it or break it.
If during the insulation process you encounter a small bump, it will be difficult for you to glue the polystyrene foam sheet in that place tightly to the wall.

Installation of polystyrene foam and EPS on the wall

Expanded polystyrene, as a rule, is glued to the wall using a special adhesive for polystyrene foam boards, and sometimes with special “fungi”.

In the case of insulation of extruded polystyrene foam (EPS), it is necessary to make the surface on which the glue will be applied rough. There are no such problems with polystyrene foam; the glue glues it well without additional processing, while EPS has a smoother surface, so it needs to be processed.

Very often, for reinforcement, polystyrene foam is attached simultaneously with glue and “fungi”, which is the most reliable and correct solution.

After installing the insulation, as a rule, the outside walls are plastered or lined with facing bricks.

Insulation with polystyrene foam using wooden slats

There is another type of installation of polystyrene foam boards - using a frame made of slats or other suitable material.

Slats are mounted to the wall, the thickness of which should not be less than the thickness of the insulation, or even better, it should be larger to create a ventilated space between the polystyrene foam and the cladding. The distance between the slats is chosen so that the polystyrene foam boards are tightly inserted between them without falling out.

This type of installation is acceptable if you do not plaster or line the walls with brick, but cover them with siding, for example. In this case, the slats will also become the basis for attaching facing materials.

How to properly insulate external walls with mineral wool

Another popular insulation for house walls is mineral wool insulation.

Insulating walls with mineral wool differs from insulating walls with polystyrene foam boards, primarily due to the characteristics of the insulation materials themselves.

Mineral wool, unlike expanded polystyrene, is not a sufficiently rigid insulation material, so installation of mineral wool is usually carried out using the frame method. But if the cotton insulation is of sufficient density, then builders also do not hesitate to install it with glue.

A frame is constructed from slats or small bars, and mineral wool is laid or rolled between them.

If the wall is concrete or brick, the bars are attached to the wall using dowel nails. Well, if the wall of the house is wooden, then use self-tapping screws.
Additionally, you can secure the mineral wool with “fungi” so that it does not roll down.

Since cotton insulation absorbs moisture very well, it will be necessary to provide waterproofing on top of the insulation. Without this, mineral wool will absorb moisture from the street and you can forget about the insulation effect.

It is also advisable to build, more or less reliable protection from various rodents by installing metal strips along the edges of the wall.

When facing walls from the outside with brick, insulation is placed between the main wall and the facing wall, and these two walls are connected with special bonds that pierce the mineral wool and at the same time hold it inside the wall, preventing it from rolling down in the future.

Insulation of external walls with polyurethane foam (PPU)

This is the most modern look insulation, but also one of the most expensive. There are many advantages to insulating walls with polyurethane foam:

• after application it expands, filling all depressions, crevices, etc.
• at a certain density, vapor permeability is very low, which eliminates additional vapor barrier
• has good adhesion, i.e. sticks well to the wall
• after hardening it has good mechanical strength
• good heat and sound insulating properties

Of course, every coin has two sides, and here too, there are plenty of disadvantages:

• low-density polyurethane foam has good vapor permeability, which must be taken into account when insulating.
• low fire resistance
• expensive material
• Spraying is recommended to be applied by professionals, which practically eliminates insulation with your own hands
• aging of polyurethane foam over time, with deterioration of thermal insulation properties

It is better to entrust the insulation of the outside walls of a house with polyurethane foam to professional workers using personal protective equipment, since the spraying process releases dangerous toxic substances.