Technology of applying enamel on MDF. DIY MDF painting

MDF - wood fiber board - is a relatively young material. Its production began in the USA in 1966. In a short period of time, this material has almost completely replaced wood in furniture production.

Furniture fronts have become commonplace in our kitchens, our offices and many other places.

MDF is the material medium density, which is made by pressing (under high pressure and at high temperature) fine chips. Lignin, a naturally occurring substance found in wood, acts as a binding material.

Of course, in terms of its strength characteristics, this material is significantly inferior to wood, however, as a material for finishing surfaces, it is a worthy replacement for it (wood). The main advantages of MDF include the following:

• Resists moisture well;
• Heat resistant;
• High surface strength;
• Very technologically advanced and easy to use;
• Low cost;
• Resistant to various microorganisms and fungi.

The use of MDF for finishing furniture facades gave a new impetus to the flight of design ideas and made it possible to significantly expand the possibilities of decorating furniture.

But DDF facades, like facades made from other materials, lose their shine over time. During operation, they may require replacement, or the furniture facades no longer harmonize with the respectable appearance of a freshly renovated kitchen. Whatever the reason, there are two solutions. The facades need to either be changed or repainted.

Painting MDF facades is a relatively simple matter and does not require any special knowledge from the performer. If desired and necessary materials and tools, we are quite capable of coping with this task to an ordinary person, not experienced in modern construction technologies.

This article will discuss how to paint an MDF facade with your own hands.

Fiberboards lend themselves well to painting. This fact once again confirms high quality this material and its high manufacturability. To understand the reasons for such a loyal attitude of the material to the products of the paint and varnish industry, you should pay attention to the main advantages of MDF:

• Due to the homogeneity, naturalness and solidity of the surface, the material does not require additional preparation of the surface for painting, unlike most existing materials. If there is a layer on the surface of the fiberboard old paint, then all surface preparation will consist of removing this layer, which will not be difficult and will not take away large quantity time;
• The MDF surface is very resistant to mechanical deformation. Due to this, the surface can not only be painted, but even minor changes can be made to the surface texture.

We paint MDF ourselves

The algorithm for painting a furniture facade made of MDF with your own hands includes the following steps:

• Surface preparation;
• Primer;
• Selecting the type and color of paint;
• Applying paint.

In the process of performing these operations you will need following materials and tools:

• Roller and paint brush;
• Painting tape;
• Construction hair dryer;
• Latex gloves;
• Primer for wood;
• Fine-grit sandpaper.

Surface preparation

First of all, in the process of preparing the surface, it is necessary to remove all elements of fittings from it.

As mentioned above, the MDF surface, provided that it has no mechanical damage, does not require preparation for painting. The layer of old paint must be removed using a hair dryer. Do not attempt to perform this operation manually - it will be time-consuming and may cause significant damage to the surface of the material. If there are noticeable mechanical damages on the MDF surface, they can be removed using wood putty. At the end of the preparation process, the surface must be carefully treated with fine-grained sandpaper.

Surface primer

The best primer for MDF surfaces is a wood primer. The method of applying the primer is entirely up to you. You can use a paint brush, roller or sprayer.

It will take a day for the primer to dry completely.

Selecting paint type and color

When choosing the type of paint for an MDF facade, it is recommended to give preference to auto enamel. Representatives of this relatively new family of paints and varnishes are characterized by high heat and moisture resistance, and are capable of creating a durable coating.

Modern manufacturers of car enamels offer consumers a wide selection of products in a rich range of colors. There is no doubt that in this kaleidoscope of colors and shades you will be able to choose the optimal color option for yourself, which will allow the furniture facades to harmoniously fit into the interior of your room.

Applying paint

The paint has been selected. The primer has dried. You can start doing what you started all this for, applying paint. Cover areas not intended for painting, if any, with masking tape and begin painting the surface.

How to paint MDF furniture at home

The method and method of applying paint is at your discretion. Paint must be applied in one direction.

As a result, you will receive a durable, varnished or matte coating, depending on the texture of the paint, that will give the furniture facades the new kind and will reliably protect them for a long time.

The video shows MDF facades being painted:

If you are skeptical about your abilities and do not want to take risks, then you should seek help from specialists. But in this case, the price of painting MDF facades will be significantly higher and will range from 1,200 to 2,000 rubles per square meter of surface.

Painting of MDF products is carried out in two cases. The first is when application is required. protective coating, the second is for decoration purposes. In this case, various paint and varnish materials can be used. How to paint MDF will be discussed below.

Coloring

Advantages of painting MDF

Currently, this material is actively used in the creation of furniture, interior doors, as well as finishing panels. And all of them are subject to painting, which acts as a decorative and finishing coating.

Its use provides the following advantages:

• The painted MDF element is not afraid of elevated temperatures - thanks to this, it is possible to use it in the kitchen, where hot dishes will be placed on it;
• Decorating in non-standard colors will help add brightness and originality to the interior of the room - it can be “metallic”, “mother of pearl” or other unusual colors;

Mother of pearl panel

• The absence of harmful chemical compounds is an undoubted advantage for painting MDF at home - the only condition for this is the use of high-quality paints and varnishes;
• Durability – applying paint can significantly extend the life of the product.

Of course, at this method There are also disadvantages to surface protection. They consist in the fact that the price of painting parts significantly exceeds the cost of covering such products with decorative film. In addition, exposure to sunlight may cause the painted surface to fade.

Materials for painting MDF

Since MDF is a wood product, it can be coated with almost any wood paint or varnish. But you can get a truly high-quality coating only if you use specialized compounds.

These include:

• polyurethane primer,
• polyurethane paint,
• as well as varnish for MDF.

Let's talk about them in more detail.

Polyurethane primer

Polyurethane primer

When thinking about how to paint MDF panels, you need to first take care of priming the products. It will prevent paint from being absorbed into the material, thereby reducing its consumption.

IN in this case you will need a special polyurethane primer for water based. It will hide the texture of the material and create a layer with high hardness and adhesion. In addition, the resulting coating will be smooth and easy to sand.

It is best to apply this primer using a sprayer. If it is not available, you can use a roller or brush. Subsequent drying takes 8-10 hours and is carried out at room temperature.

Advice! To achieve the best result, this procedure must be carried out in full accordance with the instructions established by the instructions for use of this composition.

Polyurethane enamel on MDF

Polyurethane enamel

Compared to other paints and varnishes, it has the following advantages:

• the coating obtained with its help is wear-resistant and chemically resistant;
• has no odor because it does not contain volatile components;
• Can be used to paint components intended for both indoor and outdoor use.

It is produced by various manufacturers. The products of the Italian brands Sirka and Sivam are in great demand. Their popularity among polyurethane materials for MDF is similar to that of Zinga electrically conductive paint, among compositions for anti-corrosion metal treatment.

Sirca enamel

This polyurethane paint can be two- or one-component. The first type requires the addition of a hardener to it before use.

The second variety does not require such an additive and is available in ready-to-use form. Both types are applied by spray, roller or brush.

These coloring compositions, as well as fire-retardant metal paints Polistil, are sold in special metal buckets. Their weight can range from 1 to 25 kilograms.

Along with the above-mentioned brands Sirk and Sivam, other brands such as Tikkurila and Teknos are also popular. But they are all quite expensive.

Therefore, if necessary, paint materials of other, lesser quality, can be used instead. famous manufacturers. Or use cheaper alkyd enamels rather than polyurethane enamels.

It is also worth paying attention to acrylic and oil paints. In particular, when deciding how to paint an MDF arch, you can take a closer look at domestic acrylic compositions.

Advice! Choose moisture-resistant dyes.

Painting an MDF cabinet. Is this possible?

The product coated with them can be easily washed in the future, which is very convenient.

Varnish on MDF

In the photo - polyurethane varnish

This specialized varnish is used for finishing objects from MDF or for their tinting. It forms a smooth coating that is resistant to both mechanical and chemical influences. The resulting surface can be either matte or glossy.

This varnish is odorless and is two-component. This means that to prepare the working composition you need to add a hardener to it.

After this, the mixture must be consumed within two to three hours. You can apply it yourself using a sprayer.

Conclusion

Painting MDF can significantly increase its service life, as well as make the product more attractive and resistant to elevated temperatures. Since MDF is a wood material, it can be treated with almost any wood paint or varnish (see also the article “Painting MDF furniture facades”).

But to get the best results, you should still use specialized compounds. This is a polyurethane primer, as well as polyurethane enamel and varnish on MDF. They allow you to create a hard and wear-resistant coating that can have a wide variety of colors.

The video in this article will give you more information on this topic.

painting MDF with water-based enamel

I had a chance to work with one more species slab materials- with MDF (MDF - Medium Density Fiberboard - medium density fiberboard). I made a cabinet in a baguette frame, a bedside table and screens for radiators. MDF was painted using a spray gun. But technological stages will be the same as with manual methods painting.

One of advantages of MDF is high dimensional stability and ease of processing. The advantage of water-based enamels is their relative environmental friendliness and safety for the “painter” and in use, plus resistance to ultraviolet radiation and quick drying “touch-to-touch” until the next layer.

Painting MDF facades

They also have almost no smell (and don’t stink :) and are fireproof. More or less normal enamels start at 500 rubles per liter. Beckers costs more than 1000 rubles per liter. Plus tinting from 50 rubles per bright hues and up to 400 rub. for the dark ones. I was naively counting on 300 rubles/l for everything.

To paint MDF you need to go through the following steps:

1 — preparation of MDF for primer (grinding);

2 - MDF primer;

3 — first interlayer grinding;

4 — painting (first layer);

5 — grinding;

6 — final painting (if you’re lucky with the preliminary stages) or repeating sanding and painting to the desired quality;

7 — creating a “gloss” of the surface.

The photo shows 4 surfaces in order of reading by arrow:

- bare MDF;

— after priming;

- after applying putty;

- finishing surface.

Stage 1 is important because the top layer of MDF may contain paraffin, which, to put it mildly, has poor adhesion to paintwork materials. At the same time, possible irregularities will be removed. I sanded with 120-240 grit... according to the feel. The routings can be sanded at this stage, but it is easy to lick off the fragile edges of the MDF. And the pile will rise after priming.

Stage 2 may also include putty. If you are preparing plywood for painting, then putty is required, otherwise the structure of the wood and the ends characteristic of plywood will be visible, even under the enamel.

I primed it with the same enamel, only white, diluted 1:1 with water. You can add varnish, for example 1 part enamel + 1 varnish + 1 or 2 water.

The putty was prepared by adding factory latex putty (Olympus for wood) to the enamel until it became thick and creamy. I applied it with a spatula over the primer. In the photo it was applied with a roller. After sanding, the surface was perfect.

Stage 3 is one of the most difficult, time-consuming, labor-intensive and important difficult terrain surfaces, for example in the presence of milling. The first interlayer sanding removes all raised fibers and other critical irregularities and roughness. I was afraid to even think about how to polish the profile in the photo.

My friend gave me a good idea. The essence of the idea is that a thin film is laid on the profile, and gypsum is applied to it, which hardens exactly along the profile. Then the film is replaced with sandpaper. I didn’t have plaster, but I did have a hot-melt gun for glue sticks. So I made the answer from pieces of MDF and silicone glue. I used 220-500 grit waterproof sandpaper. For grinding semicircular grooves, whole glue sticks, which were wrapped with sandpaper, were ideal.

Stages 3 and 4 of making the frame for one screen front panel for the batteries took about 8 hours. Why is it so difficult to comprehend and accept for so long, even after production?

4. Everything seems clear, but it’s not. A spray gun with an appropriate nozzle (mine is 1.8 mm) allows you to apply undiluted enamel in a fairly thick layer. This is what you should use at this stage, just remember about the maximum possible thickness of the wet film at a time (different manufacturers may give different recommendations). Of course, it is safer and more technologically correct to apply many thin layers, but time is also a resource... and it happens that you simply don’t have it anymore.

If there are any smudges, you can leave them and let them dry. Then carefully cut it with a stationery knife, sand it at the end with fine-grain sandpaper 800-1000 and rub it with a rag. The surface may become smoother and glossier than in a “safe” area. I think the finishing layer can be treated in the same way if time is running out and an ideal surface is needed.

Since when spraying a different amount of paintwork material gets on the main surface and the ends, you can first spray on the ends, then on the surface itself, then again on the ends. If the part is large, then you can also go through the second circle over the entire part if the enamel has “set.”

The photo shows screens for batteries made of MDF. The top is primed and sanded, and the bottom is painted with the first layer of enamel. By the way, there you can see the final result of the painting closer.

5. Subsequent sanding is much faster and easier because the previous layer (possibly thick) of enamel fills and levels the surface.

6. Since the enamels that I found were semi-matte, to increase the gloss, I added a 1:1 glossy water-based parquet varnish to the finishing layer. Since varnish has a much lower viscosity than enamel, this mixture also has a rather liquid consistency. Which is reflected in the technique and quantity of applying diluted enamel to the surface without smudges.

7. Checking the surface for tiny “bonuses” (specks of dust, hairs...) and removing them. If desired, you can polish, although sales managers say that water-based paints cannot be polished.

It's because important feature water based coatings is their long final polymerization. Usually 7-14 days are indicated, after which the surface will gain the declared hardness and resistance to detergents. If the layer is thick, the process can take months. This time.

Most water-based paints and varnishes supplied or produced in the post-Soviet space form a film that “melts” under the influence of a relatively low temperature. That's two.

Polishing involves friction and heat. So, polishing “water-coats” is a very peculiar process, in preparation for which, heated particles torn out by a thin/fine abrasive stick together with others and form pellets that stick to the abrasive surfaces during final grinding. Therefore, they need to be cleaned often. But this feature can help with final polishing with non-abrasive materials, such as a soft pad at low speed or soft cloth manually.

Since the process is unique, it is advisable to make a sample on which to look for the best polishing technique. And if the result does not suit you, then it is better to look for other options.

For beginners, of course, it is better to paint horizontal surfaces. That's what I wanted too. But I have few horizontal surfaces, and a lot of details. Therefore, I had to build a vertical stand on which about 5 m2 of parts could be placed.

After such an experience, you understand why painting costs from 2000 rubles/m2.

upd 11/20/2015 (almost 5 years after writing the article... since then I have worked with both oils and two-component mega-smelly solvent-based coatings)

Now there are modern water finishes that can be ground and polished well.

Updating a kitchen set can be quite simple these days. To do this, you just need to paint the kitchen facades, after which the cabinets will acquire a second life and will delight the owner for many more years. Change appearance panels can be used if their surface has become dull, faded and lost its aesthetics, or when the housewife wants to diversify the decor and reconsider the interior of the kitchen.

Wallpaper on the walls must be replaced after a few years, curtains can be alternated at least every month, depending on your mood, and furniture, as a rule, lasts quite a long time and its appearance, over the years, begins to get boring. But it turns out that in order to change the look of the kitchen, you don’t have to buy a new set. You just need to buy enamel of the color you like and repaint the furniture facades.

How to paint MDF panels

Moreover, you can do this yourself.

What materials are used in the manufacture of facades?

First of all, you need to decide what stands behind the definition of “furniture facades”. They represent the front part of the cabinets, represented by the end part of the drawers, as well as doors:

• swinging open;
• sliding;
• rising;
• descending;
• folding like an accordion.

Kitchen facades are made in one piece or prefabricated (paneled or framed) from:

• natural wood;
• laminated or painted MDF;
• plastic;
• impact resistant glass.

The aesthetic perception of the furniture as a whole depends on the appearance of the facades. They are able to decorate even the most unsightly frame. In addition to performing decorative function, panels must meet basic performance requirements such as:

• moisture resistance;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• resistance to mechanical damage;
• ease of care.

Natural wood

Kitchen furniture with wooden fronts fits harmoniously into the premises large sizes. The doors are made in solid or paneled versions, but often there are more affordable options for consumers - veneer panels, which are based on cheaper material.

Benefits furniture set with wooden doors is its environmental friendliness and aristocracy, durability and demand, independent of fashion trends. But, unfortunately, the facades are made of solid wood too expensive, over time their surface begins to darken and absorb odors and moisture.

It is difficult to create rounded and wavy panels from solid wood, as well as elements of non-standard sizes.

Chipboard

Facades from laminated chipboard They belong to the economy class, which is why they are found in many kitchens of our fellow citizens. But besides low cost and rich colors, they have no other advantages. But laminated chipboard has plenty of disadvantages:

• simple appearance;
• looseness of the internal structure;
• swelling in case of moisture;
• fragility;
• impossibility of making curved and embossed surfaces.

MDF

Last time MDF facades are becoming more and more popular. They are aesthetic, they can have various shapes and roundings, be covered with enamel or PVC film. This material is the most versatile and amenable to further restoration.

Painted and laminated MDF facades have:

• rich color range;
• glossy or matte surface;
• high strength;
• resistance to absorption of moisture and odors;
• possibility of making facades of non-standard sizes.

Painted facades will cost more than laminated MDF panels, but they are more durable. The pattern on PVC film can imitate natural wood or marble, but often the top layer peels off from the base, which dramatically worsens the appearance of the kitchen furniture.

Both materials are resistant to direct sunlight, so the surface begins to fade over time.

Glass, stained glass or mirrors, rattan or decorative panels. Such doors are inexpensive and, if desired, can be easily updated even without painting. To do this, simply change the filling.

Plastic

The plastic panels are based on MDF or chipboard, depending on which the cost of the facades is determined. Often the plastic is edged with an aluminum profile. These doors:

• do not burn out;
• are not afraid of temperature changes;
• durable;
• highly resistant to aggressive detergents;
• have a maximum service life;
• waterproof.

The negative characteristics of plastic include:

• difficulty of painting (requires special compounds);
• constant fight against fingerprints remaining on the surface;
• the possible presence of depressed areas on products resulting from technological processes.

Glass

Facades made of transparent, colored, textured or frosted glass installed on hanging kitchen cabinets. It can be placed in a frame made of MDF or aluminum profile, but often glass doors are installed without a frame. This gives them airiness and visually expands the room, but for the kitchen this option is not entirely acceptable.

Thanks to modern primers and paints, glass can be painted in any color, although the question arises: is it worth doing?

Painting MDF facades

First you need to decide on the coloring composition. There are a lot of types of paint on the market, but not all of them can be used on kitchen facades.

The best option for painting is considered to be auto enamel, which:

• moisture and heat resistant;
• durable;
• practically not afraid of damage, except for direct impact from sharp objects;
• has many shades.

The kitchen façade should be painted in a color that harmonizes with the interior and matches the style. Here you can show your imagination and combine two or three shades.

Materials and accessories

In addition to car enamel, to paint facades you will need:

• wood primer;
• sandpaper or hand sander;
• construction hair dryer;
• gloves;
• screwdriver or screwdriver;
• masking tape;
• velor roller and soft brush;
• Glizal for additional decor (optional).

Preparatory work

For ease of operation, the facades are removed from their hinges, after which they are freed from handles and inserts in the form of glass, stained glass or mirrors.

The loops do not need to be removed, but in this case they are sealed with tape.

Laminated chipboard panels must be cleaned of PVC film, as it will interfere with the application of the coloring composition. To do this, the front surface is heated using a hair dryer and the unnecessary layer is gradually removed. The film should be pulled off carefully so that no pieces remain on the facade.

Next, the surface is thawed from dust, after which they proceed to the next stage. It involves grinding the surface. It is produced manually with fine sandpaper or a sanding machine is used to make the work easier. It can also be used to remove the restored layer from painted MDF facades, although here you can use a special liquid for removing paints and varnishes.

At the end of the work, the panels are thoroughly wiped from dust and degreased, otherwise the new coating will be of poor quality.

At the last stage preparatory work A pre-shaken wood primer is applied to the facades. If there are plastic elements on the doors, they should be coated with a primer intended for plastic. After curing for a day, the actual painting of the panels begins.

Coloring

Facades must be painted in one direction with a roller or brush. If you intend to use several shades, then before applying the first color it will be necessary to protect with tape the area of ​​the surface that will be decorated in a different tone. After the paint has completely dried, the remaining area is painted using the same technology.

Painting kitchen facades using a spray can or spray gun will look neater, but keep in mind that some of the paint will definitely be sprayed to the sides. This will lead to excess consumption of the coloring composition.

To make the facades look more impressive, they are additionally coated with glisal. The composition is diluted with water in the proportion specified in the instructions, after which it is distributed over the painted facades with a clean brush.

A patterned textured design is obtained by glazing, using for this purpose a damp sponge, a brush with hard bristles, and even polyethylene. They are applied to the surface with glissal, moving from one area to another, resulting in a pattern of broken lines, chaotic strokes or bizarre bubbles. After the “witchcraft” is completed, the layer is allowed to dry, and after a week the surface is varnished.

Fittings are installed on the painted facades and the panels are hung on hinges.

Upgrading wood front panels

Painting wooden facades Kitchen work at home comes down to step-by-step surface treatment. It follows:

• sand;
• apply a layer of primer;
• paint in a pre-selected color;
• varnish.

Alternative Ways to Update Kitchen Cabinets

Some experts argue that painting kitchen facades with your own hands is unlikely to turn out to be of high quality and beautiful. They recommend using self-adhesive film for furniture restoration, offered by manufacturers in a large assortment. It is released:

• plain or with a pattern;
• with imitation of natural wood, tile or stone;
• with Khokhloma or Gzhel designs;
• with a holographic or photographic image.

But it should be remembered that film can solve the problem of updating only for a while. At the first opportunity, it would be wiser to order or buy new facades.

If the kitchen interior is made in a vintage style, you can try using decoupage or craquelure techniques to update the facades. If you wish, mastering them will not be difficult, and the effect of the finished doors will be amazing. A transparent moisture-resistant varnish is applied to the surface as a protective layer, allowing the facades to be washed with a damp soft cloth or sponge without using abrasives.

Facades with glass inserts decorated with fabric you like and suits the style, or stained glass film. In this case, there will be no need to display kitchen utensils and constantly monitor the order on the shelves. In addition, it will be possible to place more items inside the cabinet. At the same time, the kitchen will look neat and well-groomed.

Home craftsmen know many more ways to update the appearance of facades, each of which can become exclusive.

We give you an example facade painting technologies from MDF using the example of technology that was used in production using ICA paints and varnishes.

The description of the technological process can be used by technologists as a basis for drawing up their own description for a specific production.

Purpose of describing the technological process of painting MDF facades

The present description of the technological process intended for obtaining opaque matte and glossy coatings. It is used for finishing relief facades and profile elements made of medium-density MDF boards. Slab quality MDF confirmed by ISO 9001 certificate and meets the requirements of GOST 10632-89.

This technical description provides for the use of polyurethane paint OP 400 gloss and semi-matte produced by ICA (Italy), applied by pneumatic spraying with the obligatory use of polyurethane primer FP 285V from ICA (Italy).

Characteristics of the resulting type of coating

This technology provides matte and glossy coatings corresponding to category 3 GOST 24404-80“Products made of wood and wood materials. Paint and varnish coatings. Classification and designations."

Parts to be trimmed

Facade parts of a panel structure with a milled profile on the face and edges made of MDF.

Requirements for the surface to be finished

The milled edge must have rounded edges (rounding radius of at least 2 mm), since sharp external corners paintwork materials are poorly coated and during subsequent sanding a thin layer of coating is removed from them. It is these areas that become the source of internal stresses and the subsequent formation of defects in the form of cracks.

Internal sharp corners serve as a source of excessive flow of paintwork into them, which is poorly dried; the solvent that does not come out of them can lift subsequent layers of paintwork, and this can lead to swelling of the paint layers and its peeling off from the surface of the slab.

The MDF board is tested for density, surface roughness and moisture content. The humidity of the parts should be within 8+2%, the temperature on the surface of the parts should be 18 C.

The roughness for finishing should not exceed 16 microns according to GOST 7016. Sanded parts should not lie in a workshop or warehouse for a long time, since under the influence of changes in temperature and humidity in the room, after 3-4 days in damp weather they become rough. Finishing should be done immediately after sanding.

The surface of parts made from MDF boards should be free of protrusions, dents, scratches, stains from oil, paraffin, glue, foreign inclusions in the form of bark, chipped edges and corners.

If the slab is milled, then it is necessary to check for the absence of traces of cutter runout, depressions, protrusions, edge chips and corner chipping, fringes, oil stains, and slab delaminations. The surface must be thoroughly cleaned of dust.

Materials used

Solvent No. 646

Polishing wax Farecla G3

Polishing wax Farecla G10

Discs for eccentric sanders with grits No. 240, No. 280, No. 320, No. 1500.

Consumption rates for paints and grinding materials per sq. m.

No.	Name of material	Unit	Quantity
1	MDF(16, 19 mm)	m. sq.	1.080
2	Primer FP 285 V	kg	0,328
3	Primer hardener C 285	kg	0,164
4	Paint OP 400	kg	0,239
5	Paint hardener C 376 A or C152	kg	0,120
6	Solvent D 1010	kg	0,280
7	Acetone	kg	1,040
8*	Polishing paste Farecla G 3	kg	0,090
9*	Polishing paste Farecla G 10	kg	0,030
10	Grinding wheel No. 240	PC.	1
11	Grinding wheel th No. 280	PC.	1
12	Grinding wheel th No. 320	PC.	1
13*	Grinding wheel th No. 1500	PC.	3
14*	Polishing wheel th hard	PC.	0,15
15*	Polishing wheel th soft	PC.	0,05
16	Masking tape ( automotive	m. linear	4
17	Cellulose	sq.m.	1
18	Antistatic cloth	PC.	0,25
19	Packaging film (stretch)	m. linear	7,5
20	Film - foam	sq.m.	0,8
21	Corrugated cardboard	sq.m.	1,25
22	Scotch	roll	0,05

These material consumption standards are designed for painting with a “gloss” effect. For the “semi-mat” and “mat” effects, the norms do not include positions marked *.

Storage conditions for paints and varnishes

Primer and paint should be stored in a dry place at a temperature not exceeding 30 C. The shelf life of materials is no more than 6 months.

The hardener is sensitive to moisture, so it should be stored in a hermetically sealed container, preventing moisture from entering there.

Contents of the technological process of painting MDF facades

Preparing the MDF surface for primer coating

The room where painting is carried out must be provided with an air temperature of 18-25 C depending on the time of year and a relative humidity of 45-70%.

Wet cleaning of floors should be done at least once per shift to reduce the possibility of contamination of the surface of the coatings being formed.

The temperature on the surface of the parts and the temperature of the material must be at least 18 C.

The MDF board must meet the requirements set out in paragraph 4 of this technical description. If irreparable defects are found, or the design and size of the part do not match, return it for rework. Fill defects with putty.(aqueous or based on organic solvents). The drying time of the putty ranges from 2-3 minutes to 24 hours, they have different shrinkage.

Putties may or may not be compatible with paint and varnish materials used for subsequent finishing. Non-registration manifests itself in the form of a violation of the adhesion of the paintwork material to the putty, or its sub-dissolution, or, conversely, a strong protrusion of the cured putty above the surface of the coating formed by the paintwork material.

Grinding flat surface This should be done using a manual sander using sandpaper no. 240 grit to remove the top layer of MDF and putty; sanding the edges is done manually (photo 1, 2).

Before proceeding with the application of primer and other finishing operations, seal the laminated side of the MDF board in the center with cellulose or film and secure it along the contour with masking tape (photo 3).

Application of primer FP 285 V (ICA)

The working soil solution is prepared in proportion to 100 parts by volume of FP 285 soil, C 285 or C271 - 30 parts by volume is added, the mixture is thoroughly stirred and 20-30 parts of solvent D1010 are added to it to obtain a working viscosity. At air temperatures > 24 C, use solvent D1015.

During operation, it is necessary to maintain a constant viscosity for 20-25 seconds (Ford mug no. 4), adding solvent if necessary.

When applying two layers, the viscosity for the first layer of primer is 50 sec.f., the second 25-35 sec.f., the second layer of primer can be applied after 1-4 hours without waiting for it to dry completely.

If 4 hours have passed after applying the first layer of primer, the second layer of primer cannot be applied without intermediate sanding. Sanding can be done after 6-10 hours depending on the type of soil.

Drying of the insulating soil is carried out under natural conditions at a temperature of 18-25 C for 4-16 hours.

This long time due to the fact that the curing of polyurethane coatings is not only a physical process, but also a chemical process that occurs over a certain time, during which chemical reaction polyol with isocyanate, with the formation of cross-linking and the formation of a three-dimensional structure.

The excess presence of isocyanate in the soil binds OH groups from the moisture of the slab and contributes to the formation of a more branched polymer structure. The primed surface must be smooth, without missing layers of soil.

Drips, stains, stripes, bubbles, scratches, peeling of the primer, and mechanical damage are not allowed. When sanding, sanded or unsanded areas, dents, scratches and deep scratches from the skins are not allowed.

Prepare a working paint solution in the proportion of 100 parts by volume of OP400 glossy paint and 50 parts of hardener C152, and 50 parts by volume of hardener C376A for OP 400 semi-matte.

Rice. 10-11. Preparing the working paint mixture

To bring it to working viscosity, add 10-20 parts by volume of solvent D1010. The viability of the working mixture is 4 hours. Viscosity of the working paint solution is 28-30 sec.f. The diameter of the spray gun nozzle is 1.8-2 mm, the pressure is 2.3-2.5 atm. Paint consumption per layer is 120-160 g/m. sq.

Paint is applied in a spray booth with a water curtain. Apply the first layer of paint along the width, the second along the length. The paint begins to be applied to the ground after at least 12 hours in two steps, first the end surfaces of the part are painted, then after 20 minutes the end surfaces and the surface of the part are painted again.

The paint is applied in two layers, the drying time of the first layer of paint is 20-30 minutes, after which the second layer of paint is applied. Paint consumption per layer is 120-150 g/m2.

The distance from the nozzle to the surface to be treated is 200mm and reaches 300mm. A greater distance of the nozzle from the surface to be painted can cause shagreen and bubbles on the surface of the part to be finished.

The coating should be smooth, without drips, uniform in color, dullness and shine, uniform and opaque.

Parts are dried in drying chamber on shelf racks. Drying should be done at a temperature not lower than 20 C.

At low temperatures in the initial stage of drying, a film forms on the surface, which prevents the free removal of solvent vapors escaping from the underlying layers. This lengthens the drying time, deteriorates the quality of the coating; the evaporating solvent, emerging from the thickness, breaks through the hardened film, forming craters and bubbles.

Defects in paint coatings and the reasons for their occurrence

Even in the most ideal conditions Subject to all norms and rules, obtaining a flawless, defect-free coating is problematic. Therefore, the permissible number of defects is standardized.

In accordance with GOST 24404-80 Appendix 2, the class of coatings to which coatings on the front surfaces of facades must correspond must be no lower than third.

According to Clause 1.1.3. The following disadvantages are allowed on coatings of this class:

• minor risks, strokes, shagreen, structural irregularities
• uneven gloss or dullness with total area no more than 10 cm sq. / sq. m.
• different shades with a total area of ​​no more than 20 cm sq./m.
• spots with a diameter of no more than 5 mm in an amount of no more than 2 pieces / sq. m.
• inclusions with a diameter of up to 1.0 mm in an amount of no more than 10 pieces/m. sq.

Whatever the original color of the enamel, the color finished facade may differ from what was ordered according to the catalog. There are several reasons for this.

Thickness of the applied paint layer

When printing, the amount of ink applied using the offset method is 1-2 g/m2. And when painting facades, 120-150 grams are applied, that is, the difference in the thickness of paint layers is 60-150 times. This is especially true for light colors.

Substrate

If printing uses a standard White paper, then in production we make the substrate ourselves. In this case, the color of the soil used affects it.

Pigments

Each paint manufacturer uses different pigments, so the shade of the color can vary. The color can be cleaner, dirtier, bluer or redder, etc.

Concentration of pigments contained in bases

For all manufacturers, the concentration of pigments in bases can vary greatly. Also, the pigment bases themselves can be standardized or non-standardized. In non-standardized ones there may be quite large variations in color and tone.

The main defects of paintwork materials and their causes are presented in the table

Paintwork defect	Possible reason
Bubbles	Cold base, inappropriate thinner, high drying temperature, contaminated compressed air (oil, condensate), high humidity in the workshop.
Craters	Grease, oil, silicone contamination, formaldehyde on the surface to be painted or in the air of the working room, compressed air is contaminated.
Effect " orange peel»	The viscosity of the paint and varnish does not correspond to the norm, the varnish layer is thick, the composition of the solvents.
Peeling and poor adhesion	Poor preparation of the base, incompatibility of materials, poor grinding of the soil.
Leaks	Incorrect technological application mode, insufficient thixotropy of the coating material, inappropriate nozzle diameter, low viscosity of the coating material, wrong thinner.
Foggy surface	Excessive air humidity, incompatibility of materials, incorrect composition of solvents, the hardener has absorbed moisture from the air.
Uneven application of dye	Poor preparation of the base, incorrect application technique, inappropriate tip and sprayer parameters.
Uneven application of varnish	Unskilled application technique, poor preparation of the base.
Poor flow	Viscosity too high, paint consumption insufficient, use of inappropriate thinner, unsuitable nozzle.
Slow drying	Accessory composite woods, preparation of paint not according to the recipe, drying mode
Adhesion of coated parts	Drying mode, increased consumption, paint preparation.
Cracks	Inadequate substrate preparation, excessive film tension, paint preparation.

Polishing

Before you start polishing, it is necessary to remove roughness and inclusions on the end and main surfaces of the parts.

The façade surface is wetted with water and sanded within a few minutes using an eccentric sander and 1500-grit sandpaper. Quality is controlled visually.

Subsequent polishing is carried out using polishing machine and polishing wax (semi-liquid compositions of varying degrees of abrasiveness, intended for polishing with flexible end washers).

Initial polishing made with a hard polishing wheel No. 14 and Farecla G3 polishing wax. When polishing, follow the rule: apply liquid wax to the surface to be polished, and hard wax to the polishing tool, wetting the surface of the facade with water.

Finish polishing is carried out with a soft polishing wheel and Farecla G10 polishing wax.

Gloss polishing or finishing polishing is done with a sheepskin wheel. Polished areas, dents and scratches are not allowed.

Package

After the paint has completely dried, after 10-12 hours, the facades are wrapped first in foam film and then in cling film.

After this, the facades are packed in corrugated cardboard according to the specifications. A label is affixed to the packaging indicating the address and telephone number of the enterprise, product name, order number, release date, number of products in the package, package number, GOST.

Rice. 18.

Today MDF is considered popular and relatively available material, without which the production of kitchen panels and various furniture is indispensable. At the same time, MDF is often painted, which makes the facade smoother and more wear-resistant. In addition, by painting, the panels receive a deeper and brighter color that can be matched to your furniture.

Regular mdf panels can be made an interior decoration by simply painting them

Advantages and disadvantages of painting MDF panels

Painting of surfaces made from MDF is done not only for decorative, but also for protective purposes. The main advantages of painting panels yourself:

1. The coating is resistant to elevated temperatures, which allows you to place even hot dishes on the kitchen surface.
2. High-quality painting of MDF with enamel allows you to make the facade more refined and original, giving it unique design. For example, you can decorate your furniture interesting decor in the form of pearls, mother-of-pearl, metallic and so on. To achieve this, various fillers are added to the paint.
3. Safety for health, since only high-quality paints and varnishes are used.

Painted MDF panels not only look better, but are also more reliable and durable

Disadvantages of painting MDF panels:

• higher price compared to film coating;
• If you use low-quality paint, over time the painted facade may fade under the influence of sunlight.

Modern technology for painting MDF panels

Correct and high-quality painting must be carried out in compliance with all the rules of the technological process. For the job you will need paint, wood primer or polyurethane primer, and varnish.

In order for a painted facade to look beautiful and not deteriorate over time, certain temperature conditions must be observed.

It is best if all processes take place at a temperature of about twenty degrees. At the same time, air humidity should be in the range from 50 to 80 percent. The humidity of wood wall panels should be 8-15%.

Before applying paints and varnishes, they must be filtered using a 50-100 micron filter. It is advisable to filter twice if the paint has been stored for more than two weeks.

Selection of painting equipment

To paint MDF with your own hands, it is advisable to have a room of at least 40 square meters, equipped with a special painting chamber and a place for sanding surfaces. In addition, a place should be provided for storing wooden blanks and finished panels. The temperature in the room where the façade or interior surfaces will be painted must be at least twenty degrees. It is best to equip the painting chamber with a hood and a rotating tabletop. Drying room finished parts

Modern painting technology involves applying paints and primers using a pneumatic spray gun with a 1.5-2 mm nozzle and a receiver compressor with a capacity of at least 80 liters. If used, it is applied using a sprayer directly to the surface. It is best to grind parts using vibration grinder. Polishing is carried out with an angular grinding machine.

Painting stages

Preparatory stage

On preparatory stage You need to pay great attention to the processing of the slab. To treat the surface to a glossy finish, you need to avoid raising the pile and eliminating embossing that occurred during the production process.

The MDF facade should be milled at maximum speed, which will avoid raising the pile. Since the paint layer here is very thin, it is advisable not to leave sharp corners that can be easily knocked off. For cutting corners, it is best to use an edge cutter with a radius of about 3 mm.

To properly sand the MDF facade, it is necessary to remove the surface protective wax layer from the entire surface. An eccentric type grinder is best suited for this work. To process complex curves, it is advisable to use sandpaper. If you plan to paint MDF wall surfaces, which include several constituent elements, then it is better to properly fill the joint gaps with a primer to fill the pores.

Surface priming

At the first stage, the most problematic relief areas are primed. After this, the edges of the panel are primed. At the final stage, the entire facade is treated with soil. Using a primer gun, apply the solution first longitudinally and then transversely. In this case, each subsequent layer is overlapped with the previous one by 50%. This is how not only the primer is carried out, but also the painting itself.

The most effective primer application technology involves two stages. The first step is to use a spray gun to apply a layer of insulating primer. It should prevent the pile from rising and absorbing subsequent layers of paint. After this, you need to let the primer dry and sand the surface with P320-400 sandpaper.

The second step of priming is to apply polyurethane primer and let it dry for at least 10 hours. Next, the surface is ground, and Scotch-brite abrasive is used in places where milling bends are made.

For sanding after applying primer, it is recommended to use sandpaper number p320

Painting stage

To paint an MDF facade with high quality, you need to use a spray gun with paint consumption parameters of 60-200 g/sq. m. All other parameters of the device are set depending on the type of paint coating used. In this regard, before you paint the facade glossy, you need to thoroughly understand the instructions for using the paint.

Wet painting technology

After the priming stage, drying is carried out at a temperature not exceeding 35 degrees. The drying period is on average five hours. The wet painting method is carried out by applying a mixture with a thickness of 120 to 140 microns. It is advisable to use polyurethane paints and varnishes.

The paint is applied using a spray gun with a certain pressure. Application in two layers is also possible, but the surface should be sanded before applying the second layer. At the same time, the thickness of each layer should not be more than 120 microns. At the next stage, several layers of polyester or polyurethane primer are applied to the MDF board, simultaneously with intermediate sanding. The final layer of glossy enamel must be polished.

When applying complex compositions of paints and varnishes with different special effects, they must be mixed well. This is necessary so that the decoration parts do not settle at the bottom of the jar.

In addition, it is necessary to provide for easy passage of decorative additives through the nozzle of the spray gun.

When painting and varnishing MDF surfaces, care should be taken to ensure that dust, insects or other debris does not fall on it. To remove them from a painted surface, you need to have tweezers with you. If you find smudges of primer or paint, they should be removed using a utility knife and emery cloth.

Using tweezers you can easily remove bugs, pieces of dirt and other stuck excess

Powder mixture for painting

The dry painting method involves applying a special paint called a powder mixture. The technique involves spraying dry microparticles onto the prepared surface. After this, the applied paint is heated until it begins to melt. The result is an almost ideal, flat surface.

Drying

The final stage of any painting is drying the panels. This procedure must be carried out under certain conditions. In particular, the air temperature should be no more than 50 degrees, and humidity less than 80%.

Drying time largely depends on environmental conditions. Typically, it will take 5 to 10 hours to dry completely. In general, the lower the humidity and temperature, the faster the MDF board dries.

Conclusion

Thus, for high-quality painting of MDF boards, you need to comply with all the necessary conditions. This process consists of several steps such as sanding, priming, painting and drying.

Takes ~3 minutes to read

Painting furniture facades is an opportunity to give your favorite furniture new life. MDF cladding is inexpensive, durable, easy to care for and can be created in various reliefs. Wooden panels last a long time and are very beautiful. Multifunctional cabinets and cabinets are usually chosen for a long time. But over time, their appearance, colors, finishes wear out or no longer fit into the overall design premises. Painting furniture fronts saves money and updates the room in a short time.

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Types of paints for MDF

Painting kitchen facades made of MDF and solid wood is the most common. But the paint must always be of high quality, comply with operating standards and be applied according to the instructions.

There are many varieties of paints:

• Alkyd - plastic, durable, but not resistant to sunlight.
• Oil-based, which lie on almost any surface. But it is mandatory to use a primer.
• Silicone. Creates an elastic coating that is resistant to thermal influences. Such furniture fronts are used near the stove.
• Water-based - dissolves in water, is environmentally friendly and dries quickly. And here performance characteristics not the best.
• Acrylic-silicone is harmless and durable, but one of the most expensive.
• Polyvinyl acetate may peel off if the application technology is not followed.

Of all paint and varnish materials, automotive enamel, which is an opaque glassy thin layer, is suitable for shiny facades. It is this that, when dried, becomes a beautiful gloss that does not change over the years.

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There are two types of auto enamel:

1. Acrylic. It is applied at once and after drying the facade immediately looks uniformly glossy. Using acrylic you can create color effects. For example, combining base enamel with acrylic, you will get a solid and expensive surface
2. Alkyd. It is made from glycerin and resins, costs less than acrylic and dries quickly at room temperature.

Types of varnishes for MDF

Glossy finishes are more expensive than matte finishes, but they also look much more beautiful.

• The most budget-friendly varnish is alcohol-based and dries in half an hour.
• Epoxy varnishes consist of two components and are quite durable. They don't even care about blows.
• Acrylic is inferior to them in strength and durability. But they are completely non-toxic, as they are diluted with water.
• Polyurethane, polyester and nitrocellulose varnishes are durable and resistant to all weather conditions (do not fade). Such surfaces are easy to polish. They look best on wood.

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Technology

1. The first step is to completely disassemble the furniture (unscrew the doors, remove fasteners, fittings, glass). Cover the areas that do not need to be painted with masking tape, and use a marker to mark the holes between the parts so that they then fit into place. Remove dust, dirt and old paint.
2. It is very important to properly degrease the surface before applying primer. If this is not done, the facade will have defects. The best degreaser is organic-based, the so-called Anti-silicone. With its help, fats, oils and silicone are removed. It is also suitable for interlayer degreasing.
3. The surface of the facade should be prepared so that it becomes absolutely smooth. To do this, remove the old coating and go over it with sandpaper for the first time.
4. Putty and seal all chips and cracks, then sand them with sandpaper (grit P 180).
5. The surfaces are primed with a special insulating mixture (also called a primer), which ensures less paint consumption. When the soil has dried, go over it again with a P 240 grit brush and apply the main color. Its application method is indicated on the can, depending on the composition.
6. Then the surface is varnished and polished.
7. Most final stage– removing masking tape, assembling furniture according to marks, hanging hinges and installing handles.

Tools

To apply paint you will need brushes, a paint gun or a roller. It all depends on your budget, professionalism and work preferences. But remember that an ideal surface is obtained only when using a spray gun or spray gun.

The spray gun not only paints, but also primes. There are two types of pistols: pneumatic and electric. The former operate using air pumped by a compressor, and electrical appliances require an appropriate outlet. The nozzle diameter is within 1-1.3 mm and this is enough for uniform spraying.

When buying a roller or brush, be sure to pay attention to the markings, which indicate what composition they are suitable for. For example, a roller with velor bristles is ideal for water-dispersed paints, and natural and combined bristles on the brushes allow stain, acrylic or varnish to adhere well.

Auxiliary materials you will need: gloves, lung protection (mask, respirator), sandpaper of different grain sizes, sanding felt (Scotch-Brite), degreaser or anti-silicone, solvents, masking tape, markers.

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How to remove old paintwork

Most often, the top layer on furniture is gloss (varnish or paint). If you don't remove it, then new material will not stick and will not stick. Therefore, the top is treated with the coarsest sandpaper (P220-280). You don’t have to remove all the paint, but simply go over the entire surface to create roughness for better adhesion.

Old coatings can be easily removed with special removers. The most universal are numbers 646 and 647. For acrylic car enamels, R-12 solvent is used. To clean the base enamel, you should purchase a solvent that matches the composition of the base. It is also needed to clean the spray gun and other surfaces from paint residues.

Acrylic compounds are only sanded off. Otherwise there is no way to remove them.

There is another removal option - with a hair dryer (torch). It is suitable for polyester coatings. When exposed to high temperatures, the varnish cracks and is then removed with a spatula or chisel.

Grinding

A perfectly smooth surface is the key to a high-quality coating. This can only be achieved through pre-grinding.

Different grits are required for different stages grinding. From P220 to 280 - this is the preparation of the base for priming. P 320 – removes uneven ground, and P500 is intended for sanding before applying paint.

For finishing and delicate sanding today, Scotch Brite or non-woven felt (with a grain size of P800) is used. It allows for final sanding immediately before painting. Its foam base bends and perfectly handles all unevenness, and an analogue can be found on kitchen sponges.

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Painting

The painting itself is not difficult. If you use a can or spray gun, be sure to protect your respiratory tract with a respirator. The device should be located at a distance of 15-20 cm from the facade. Remember that the painting translational movements are carried out strictly in one direction.

Paint for MDF furniture facades is applied to completely dry soil and perfectly flat surfaces. For a more concentrated and deeper tone, cover the facades again. The smoothness of the new layer is broken with sandpaper to increase the adhesion of the next one. If you have several colors, then the dried first layer is sealed with masking tape and the paint is applied again.

Applying varnish

Painting furniture facades with MDF varnish usually takes place in one layer of glaze and several layers of paint (maximum 3). In this case, the surface must be completely dry (the same glisal dries for up to 7 days).

The first layer is a barely visible coating, which is needed to avoid drips from the thicker subsequent layers. It is important that the work area is not dusty, otherwise any fluff will be visible in the light. It is for these reasons that painting outside is not advisable.

Each layer of varnish is applied at intervals of up to 10 minutes. And the result of this will be a perfect glossy facade with a mirror effect.

Finishing and decoration

The final sanding of the facades is carried out using P500 sandpaper. The thinnest layer of material is at the ends, so you should work here carefully.

After sanding, go over it again with Scotch Brite. In this case, special care need not be exercised, since the material is soft and does not damage the surface.

Painting kitchen facades is not limited to this; they can be further decorated. This can be the application of regular varnish, glazing (glizal) or polishing. Glizal is a translucent paint for kitchen facades, slightly reminiscent of marble stains. It is diluted with water and applied in several layers.

Patterns on the facade can be created in all sorts of ways (using a damp sponge, a hard brush or textured roller). But this should be done quickly, as the glisal immediately begins to dry out. At the very end, you should coat the panel again with clear varnish.

There is also this type of decor called “raindrops”. 2 colors are used. Darker paint is applied first. When it hardens, drops of water are sprayed with a regular sprayer. Immediately, without waiting for it to dry, apply the next color with a light spray using a spray bottle. When the paint has dried, the area is sanded with Scotch Brite (P 1200-1500) and varnished.

The easiest way to change is the light base of the surface. When using stain (for wood) or colored varnish, you will get a darker facade, but at the same time maintain the structure of the material. If your base is dark, then it is more difficult to emphasize its structure.

The easiest way to get the desired tone is by mixing the desired colors several times in different dishes. Check the result on test surfaces and when the paint has dried, you will be able to make a more accurate choice.

MDF has already managed to take a strong position in the field furniture production. The unique properties of this material make it possible to implement any design ideas, to produce interior items that are not only aesthetically attractive, but also very practical.

High performance finished products give decorative and protective materials used for their exterior finishing. The most popular finishing technology today is painting MDF with special paints and varnishes.

Advantages of painted products

Furniture facades carry not only a functional load, but are also the most important aesthetic component of any interior. PVC films, stylized to resemble valuable wood species, or natural veneer, are ideal for creating furniture in a classic style, but painting MDF allows you to create products in completely different style directions.

The advantages of this technology include:

• huge variety of colors;
• choice of textures (glossy, matte);
• excellent decorative qualities;
• a variety of types of coatings (polyester, polyurethane, polyurethane-acrylic, nitrocellulose, water-based and UV-curing materials);
• excellent protective properties;
• durability of the coating;
• resistance to mechanical damage, temperature changes, and chemical elements;
• environmental friendliness and safety.

A good illustration of the strength of painted facades is this video:

Selection of paint and varnish material

The durability of painted facades directly depends on two main criteria: compliance with painting technology and the quality of paintwork materials. When choosing a material, be sure to take into account:

• type of furniture structures;
• thickness of the polymer layer;
• requirements for wear resistance, heat resistance, resistance to chemical elements;
• decorativeness;
• service life of the paintwork.

Coatings and varnishes have different technological properties, therefore they are selected taking into account the functional load of a particular piece of furniture.

The characteristics of the material are also extremely important for the high-quality performance of painting work, and it does not matter whether they are carried out with their own hands or in a production environment. These characteristics include:

• Covering power. This property determines the number of required layers of dye required to completely cover the contrast substrate. There are materials that allow you to completely cover the substrate in just one layer. They have a higher price, but significantly lower consumption.
• Drying time. An important technological parameter that determines the speed of painting. However, the time indicated in the instructions for the material most often does not correspond to the actual drying time, which depends on many factors, for example, air temperature, room humidity, substrate temperature, etc.
• Adhesion. High level adhesion is a prerequisite to ensure proper quality of paintwork. To achieve maximum performance, it is necessary to properly prepare the base and strictly adhere to the technology of applying paints and varnishes.
• Viscosity parameters. The paint must have a certain consistency so that it can be applied to the surface efficiently. Thixotropic additives are introduced into materials that are too viscous, which increase their fluidity, while helping to avoid smudges.
• Environmentally friendly. Many paints contain harmful substances, but there are also safe materials for covering facades, which are recommended to be preferred.

Technological conditions for painting facades

Modern equipment, qualified personnel and strict adherence to technology are the three main criteria that guarantee maximum competent organization production process and high quality of finished products.

Play an important role climatic conditions and the area of ​​painting booths. If products are produced in small volumes, painting of MDF can be carried out in small spaces, and with significant volumes for effective and comfortable work chambers of appropriate sizes are required.

In the painting room, regardless of the time of year, constant temperature conditions (23-25˚C) and a certain level of humidity must be observed.

The technology for painting products involves carrying out preparatory work, applying paint and varnish and performing intermediate operations. paints and varnishes, equipment and facades must have the same temperature as in the painting room.

Paints, varnishes and primers for painting MDF facades are produced ready for use. Before the painting process, all these products are filtered (filter density - 50-100 microns), and the filtration process is especially important for coatings that form gloss. When storing filtered paints and varnishes for more than 2 months, they are filtered again before use.

The process of painting furniture facades

Do-it-yourself facade painting

Self-updating kitchen set can be done in two ways: paste over the facades with self-adhesive film or paint them with special enamel. The first method is cheaper, but painting is more effective solution in terms of durability of furniture and greater aesthetic appeal.

If the second option is preferred, then the process of transforming the kitchen should begin with preparing the necessary materials and tools. So, you will need:

• reliable, wear-resistant and durable enamel (for example, car enamel fully meets these requirements);
• wood primer;
• hand sander or sandpaper;
• spray gun or soft brush and velor roller;
• construction hair dryer (if necessary).

The work order is as follows:

• Initially, it is necessary to free the facades from all existing fittings and glass;
• If old MDF facades are laminated with PVC film, then it must be completely removed. This is exactly what you need a hair dryer for. When heated, the film peels off and is easily removed;
• The surface is carefully sanded and primed twice. After each layer of primer has dried, the facades are sanded again with fine sandpaper;
• Painting furniture elements with your own hands with a roller or brush is carried out in one direction. When applying the material using a spray gun, the quality finished surface will be higher, but this method will require special room. The paint is applied in 2-3 layers with 24-hour intervals for each layer to dry.