Sunshet Agrosuccess - protects plants from sunburn and drought. Rhododendron or azalea? Planting, growing and care indoors Indoor rhododendron flower

For the many-sided rhododendron (azaleas), care at home is associated with certain difficulties associated with the proud nature of the plant. However, if you can provide " rose tree» proper care, it will gratefully delight you with amazing flowering.

Kinds

Inhabiting the mountainous areas of the Himalayas, the Caucasus, Europe and America, the heather family has given us about 800 species of rhododendron. And only a small part of them are able to develop successfully in our temperate but cold latitudes. Among them are the deciduous rhododendron Molle, the evergreen Fortune, and the evergreen but blushing Russatum, which decorates alpine coaster our gardens. In the vast expanses of Siberia, Daurian rhododendron grows under natural conditions, which is often confused with wild rosemary.

Advice! Since the characteristics of the genus include the distribution of plants into evergreen and deciduous trees, bushes and subshrubs, you have to base your choice on these indicators.

Japanese rhododendron, which is a very branched deciduous shrub, is taking root well here. The evergreen rhododendron is also suitable for our gardens. It is dense, tolerates frost well, but grows very slowly.

In many European catalogs rhododendron is called azalea. Therefore, flower growers agreed that the azalea flower is a species of rhododendron growing in closed ground. They are used in home floriculture, decorating window sills, winter gardens and greenhouses. The exception is the garden azalea, but in order for it to take root in the open air, a lot of effort must be made.

For those who are interested beneficial features plants, it is worth taking a closer look at the Adams rhododendron, which has a tonic effect.

For lovers of luxury flowering bushes We recommend planting Katevbinsky rhododendron in the garden. The shrub, 2 to 4 meters high, during the flowering period turns into a huge ball of brightly colored inflorescence petals, completely covering green rhododendron leaf.

Deciduous varieties of rhododendron differ in their winter hardiness. These are Limon Lights and Mandarin Lights, with a rare lemon- yellow color and delicate aroma. Among the evergreen rhododendrons, it is worth noting such varieties as Haaga, Mauritz and Peter Tigerstedt.

Today, when the army of hybrid rhododendron is regularly replenished with new varieties bred by breeders different countries, the choice is so wide that you can decorate your garden with a wide variety of colors this plant.

However, not a single type of rhododendron can be said to be an easy-to-care plant. An azalea or rhododendron will get on your nerves, but will more than repay your diligence with lush, fragrant and beautiful flowering.

Landing

With the proper planting of rhododendron, we begin the path to a long and happy life in our garden.

The picky rhododendron flower does not like stagnation surface waters and responds to it by rotting the roots. Therefore, we are looking for a dry area, checked for excessive moisture.

The planting hole should not be deep, because root system garden rhododendron lies very close to the soil surface. The best composition soil for the plant - fibrous peat. As a replacement, you can use coniferous soil diluted with tree bark and pine needles.

Important! Rhododendrons do not grow on calcareous soils.

Apply fertilizers (ready-made mixtures for rhododendrons) to the prepared soil.

After removing the rhododendron seedling from the container, moisten the lump of earth, and only then lower it into the hole.

Place the root collar at the level of the soil surface, make an earthen roll around it: it will be useful for the initial watering of the plant. After two weeks, the roller can be leveled.

Important! To eliminate stagnation of water during irrigation, you should lay good layer drainage

Having mastered planting rhododendron in the ground in the open air, let's turn to the home beauty.

To plant indoor azaleas, choose northern window. The plant loves cool rooms, so if the windows face south, we will try to deceive the picky lady. Place pieces of ice on the tray or spray the flower with cool water. WITH early spring and until late autumn you can keep the azalea on balcony or terrace .

We don't mind the soil, we buy from flower shop specially prepared substrate for home rhododendrons. We monitor temperature fluctuations, since azalea does not tolerate sudden changes. We will tell you about other secrets of growing azaleas below.

Rhododendron care

Faced with a picky plant, many gardeners argue that for rhododendron, planting and care is a serious set of competently carried out actions.

Temperature

Direct sunlight is dangerous for species blooming in the garden, so we plant rhododendron along fence or under gazebo roof. It’s more difficult with indoor species. Azalea likes to be cool and scattered light. Read about how to maintain a comfortable +18-20 degrees for her in the summer in the section on planting.

Watering

Lack of moisture is especially dangerous for young plants. In the first year of rhododendron's life in the garden, take care of regular watering of the flower. On particularly hot days, do this every day. However, do not overdo it with the amount of water. Remember wet soil disastrous for the delightful mountaineer.

Watering azaleas at home is carried out with the same regularity as garden rhododendron. The only thing you need to do is remove excess water from the pan. Unlike garden species, home rhododendron loves spraying.

Remember! If your azalea leaf turns yellow or falls off, you have given the plant too much water. Reduce the frequency of watering.

Top dressing

Successful flowering of rhododendron, of course, depends on timely fertilizing.

For plants grown in the garden, fertilization is carried out 3 times a year. The first portion is brought in in early spring when the plant wakes up from winter hibernation. Then you need to fertilize the bush before flowering and feed the rhododendron after flowering, but no later than mid-August.

For indoor azalea useful regular watering liquid fertilizers, small doses.

Attention! Avoid fertilizers with chlorine and lime, they are harmful to rhododendrons.

Trimming

Rhododendrons have a naturally beautiful crown shape, but they also need pruning. When the bush grows, branches thicker than 3-4 cm should be removed to preserve the decorative appeal of the plant. Pinching the top bud will help stop the branches from stretching.

Reproduction

In domesticated rhododendron, propagation is carried out using cuttings and layering. Seed propagation is typical for wild representatives of the genus. At home, seed propagation is a complex process. That's why most gardeners prefer propagating rhododendrons from cuttings instead of seeds.

Seed material is semi-lignified parts of the plant. They are cut twice a year: in mid-March-April and from mid-July to mid-August.

The length of the cut shoots is approximately 7-9 cm. Three bottom sheets on the cuttings must be removed, leaving a tail of 0.5 cm, the remaining leaves should be cut in half.

Important! The lower cut of the cutting should be oblique and drawn just under the bud.

Immerse the finished rhododendron cuttings in a heteroauxin solution (2 tablets per liter of water) for 6 hours.

Fill the container for planting with layers of substrate: 1st layer – 2-3 cm of drainage from pebbles or broken shards, 2nd layer – 3 cm of coarse sand, 3rd layer – 8-10 cm of coniferous soil.

If planted cuttings are heated with 25 W lamps, they will root faster, on about the 40th day. Without heating, the process will take 60 days.

Diseases and pests

The most common pest of flowering rhododendrons is the rhododendron bug. It lays brown eggs on the bottom of the leaf, appearing as dark spots on the front side. To kill the bug, spray with diazinon.

The Asian garden beetle also causes enormous harm, eating large holes in the leaves of the plant. Traditional pest is also dangerous garden crops, spider mite. They are also sprayed with diazinon.

Considering rhododendron diseases, let us also recall mixed chlorosis. The disease occurs from a lack of nitrogen and potassium in the soil. It appears on the leaves, indicated by yellow spots along the edges and on their tips.

Important! Symptoms of mixed chlorosis are similar to the plant’s reaction to stagnant water. Check the soil under the plant

Hypothermia of soil and air can cause necrosis. When it occurs, the central vein of the leaf dies and the leaf itself turns brown. It is difficult to deal with sudden temperature fluctuations, so choose frost-resistant varieties.

Rhododendron - description

Rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)- shrubs of the heather family. At the moment, more than 900 species of this plant are known, many of which are successfully grown indoors. Rhododendrons are common in temperate zones around the world: Europe, Asia, Australia and North America. The rhododendron plant got its name from two Greek words meaning “Rose tree”.

Rhododendrons are represented by shrubs, which, depending on the type, are deciduous or evergreen, low or tall, with erect stems or ampelous. The leaves are usually glossy, oval-shaped, and quite large. Blooms in any color except pure blue.

In indoor floriculture, the name Azalea is common, although only one subgenus of rhododendron is called this way. Typically, Azaleas are deciduous plants, while Rhododendrons are evergreen. Breeders have developed a huge number of species, varieties and forms for gardening and indoor floriculture.

Planting and caring for rhododendron (in brief)

• Bloom: from March to June.
• Lighting: bright diffused light.
• Temperature: in spring and summer - 16-18 ºC, from October the temperature is lowered to 5-8 ºC for a month and a half, and when the buds begin to swell, the temperature is gradually increased to 18 ºC.
• Watering: In spring and summer, the substrate should be slightly moist all the time. In cool conditions, the substrate is moistened two days after its top layer has dried, using the method of watering through a pan.
• Air humidity: increased. It is necessary to spray the plant at least once a day, and in hot weather - 2-3 times a day.
• Feeding: in spring and summer - every three weeks with a special mineral fertilizer, and during the period of bud formation - with phosphorus.
• Rest period: for 2-2.5 months from mid-November or early December.
• Transfer: immediately after flowering: young azaleas - annually, adults - once every year or two.
• Substrate: special ready-made soil for azaleas with 4.0-4.5 pH.
• Trimming: after transplantation. You can pinch the plant several times; the last pinch is carried out in mid-summer.
• Reproduction: seeds, cuttings and grafting.
• Pests: thrips, scale insects, mealybugs, spider mites, whiteflies and azalea moths.
• Diseases: except problems due to improper care and violation of maintenance conditions, rhododendron can become ill with fusarium, phyllostictosis and septoria.
• Properties: All parts of the plant are poisonous!

Read more about growing rhododendron below.

Rhododendron – photo

Caring for rhododendron at home

Lighting

The rhododendron houseplant needs large quantities bright light for a long time. It is best to place the rhododendron pot on the south side, but not in direct sunlight. During the warm summer period, the flower can be taken outside, protected from direct sunlight and precipitation.

Temperature

The optimal summer temperature for rhododendron in room conditions is 16-18 °C, but if you provide the plant with proper watering and air humidity, the temperature can be around 22 °C. Starting from October, the temperature must be reduced to 5-8 °C above zero. This temperature should last at least a month and a half, since it is at this temperature that flower buds ripen. When the buds begin to swell, the temperature begins to gradually increase to 13-15 °C. And when the buds begin to open - up to 18 °C. Home rhododendron does not tolerate drafts, but it is necessary to provide it with a flow of fresh air.

Watering rhododendron

Rhododendron at home in the summer, when the temperature is high and the soil dries out quickly, must be watered immediately after the top layer of soil has dried. Water with warm, settled water. You can water either by overhead watering or by watering through a tray, and it is best to alternate. The water from the pan should be poured out 30-40 minutes after watering. Sometimes you can use the watering method by immersing a rhododendron pot in a container of water for 5 minutes, then let it sit for an hour. excess water drain. If the air temperature is not very high and the soil takes several days to dry, then the indoor rhododendron is watered a couple of days after the substrate has dried on top. In winter, water carefully, usually through a tray. If the soil does not have time to dry out, the roots may begin to rot. Before watering, water must be allowed to settle for 24 hours.

Spraying rhododendron

The rhododendron flower does not tolerate dry air, so it needs constant spraying at least once a day. If the temperature is very high, then you can spray even 2-3 times a day. Before spraying, the water should be allowed to settle so that the lime settles and the chlorine evaporates. Placing rhododendron near heating devices will have a very negative impact on the development of the plant, so flowers should grow away from radiators and heaters.

Feeding rhododendron

Indoor rhododendron flower should be fed with complex fertilizers every three weeks during spring and summer. mineral fertilizers. During the period of bud formation for more abundant flowering rhododendron is fed twice with phosphorus fertilizers.

Rhododendron blossom

The rhododendron plant blooms for one to one and a half months. If the plant is properly cared for, it will bloom starting in December ( different types may differ in flowering times). Some varieties bloom starting in March, and the latest ones - from May. If you buy rhododendron, it is better to take specimens with a couple of flowers and a large number of unopened buds. Another feature of rhododendron is that it is not afraid of movement during flowering.

Rhododendron pruning

Homemade rhododendron can bloom for several years in a row, but this requires proper pruning. Faded shoots must be pruned. This is done after transplanting the plant. It is necessary to pinch the tops of young branches, leaving up to 6 leaves on them, and remove weak shoots completely. The first pinching of rhododendron is done approximately a month and a half after the end of flowering. Throughout the year, the plant can be pinched several more times, but the last time no later than mid-summer.

Transplanting rhododendron

Rhododendron will only grow well in acidic soil, so either purchase ready-made rhododendron (Azalea) soil or test the acidity using litmus paper - the pH should be between 4 and 4.5. The soil can be made up of one part peat and two parts coniferous soil, you can add a little river sand. Expanded clay should be poured onto the bottom of the pot for good drainage. Young rhododendrons are replanted every year, and older ones - after one or two years. If the roots have grown very large, it is advisable to trim them slightly. The pot for transplanting should not be very deep.

Propagation of rhododendron by cuttings

Pruning for cuttings is carried out from March 15 to April 15 or from July 15 to August 15. Cuttings need to be cut off those that were last pinched last year. I take cuttings up to 10 cm long, cut the leaves in half, and cut off the bottom couple completely, making a cut under the bud at an angle. The cuttings are placed in a solution of a root formation stimulator for several hours. The substrate is made up of equal parts of coniferous soil and peat, or planted in clean peat. Expanded clay is poured onto the bottom of the bowl, a thin layer of sand on top, and then a substrate. The cuttings are planted at a distance of 4 cm from each other and covered with glass. The temperature is maintained at 25 °C, the cuttings are regularly ventilated and sprayed. When the rhododendron cuttings take root, the glass should be removed and the soil should be kept moderately moist at all times. The first rhododendron transplant is done when the young plants grow 3-4 cm, transplanted into coniferous soil at a distance of 10 cm from each other. 3 months after this, it is necessary to pinch the plants to improve branching and bush formation. The first buds must be removed so that the plant spends energy on development rather than flowering. At the beginning of spring, pinch them a second time and transplant them into individual pots. A fully formed rhododendron will grow in 2-3 years.

Toxicity of rhododendron

All parts of the rhododendron are highly poisonous. After working with the plant, you need to wash your hands. Make sure that children do not eat flowers and leaves - severe poisoning is possible.

Healing properties of rhododendron

In traditional and folk medicine Rhododendron is used in the treatment of heart diseases. And also to reduce irritability, get rid of headaches, insomnia and epilepsy. You cannot take decoctions and infusions of rhododendron on your own - consult your doctor.

Diseases and pests of rhododendron

Rhododendron flowers are withering. Rhododendron needs high humidity air, and wilting of flowers may be due to the fact that the plant is standing next to heating devices or in the sun.

Rhododendron leaves are turning yellow. Rhododendron does not tolerate lime - leave the water to settle before watering and avoid fertilizers containing lime.

The tips of rhododendron leaves turn brown and wither. There are several reasons: too heat air and low humidity; direct sunlight; lack of moisture in the soil; insufficient air humidity.

Rhododendron flower buds are falling off. Rhododendron requires low air temperatures. Very high temperatures can cause flower buds and even buds to fall off.

Rhododendron leaves curl up. In rhododendron, this happens either due to insufficient watering, or if the air in the room is very dry.

Azalea moth on rhododendron. If this happens, then you need to treat the rhododendron with Actellik twice a year.

Pests of rhododendron. More often than others, spider mites, scale insects and mealybugs appear on Azaleas.

Rhododendron species

Large rhododendron / Rhododendron grande

Trees. In nature they grow up to 10 m in height. The leaves have an elongated lanceolate shape (length up to 30 cm and width up to 10 cm). The upper side of the leaf blade is shiny, dark green, and the lower side is silver color. Flowering period: end of winter - beginning of spring. Flowers Pink colour with red spots, collected in inflorescences of two to three dozen, bell-shaped.

Rhododendron griffithianum

Tall bushes or short trees with straight branches. The leaves are petiolate (3 cm), not pubescent, matte, have an elongated oval shape (up to 30 cm long), the upper side of the leaf is dark green, the lower side is yellow-green with a bluish tint. The beginning of flowering is May. Flowers white They grow in inflorescences of several pieces (up to 6), and are bell-shaped.

Rhododendron hookeri / Rhododendron hookeri

Representatives of the species are three-meter shrubs that do not shed leaves. The shoots are not pubescent, straight. The upper side of the leaf is not pubescent and dark green in color; the underside is slightly pubescent on the veins and has a bluish tint; the leaves are petiolate, have an elongated oval shape, reach a length of 10 cm. Flowering period: early to mid-spring.

Decorative rhododendron / Rhododendron decorum

Very tall evergreen shrubs. The leaves are not pubescent, oblong-oval (up to 20 cm long), petiolate, bluish-green below and dark green on the upper side. It blooms for a long time - from mid-spring to mid-summer. The inflorescences are loose, have up to 10 pink or white flowers.

Rhododendron arboreum

Evergreen shrubs reaching 3-5 m in height. The leaves are oval or elongated oval (up to 20 cm in length), petiolate, green: the upper side is dark and the lower side is light. Blooms in mid-late spring. Umbrella-shaped inflorescences contain up to 20 red-pink flowers on long stalks.

Rhododendron mucronatum

Deciduous or evergreen branched shrubs growing up to 3 m in height. Young shoots are pubescent. The leaves grow in two stages: in the spring, light green leaves appear, pubescent on both sides of the leaf, lanceolate-ovate in shape (up to 6 cm long and up to 2.5 cm wide) with a pointed tip; in summer, dark green leaves grow, elongated-lanceolate in shape (up to 5 cm in length and up to 1.5 cm in width). It begins to bloom in late spring with white flowers with a funnel-shaped corolla.

Indian rhododendron / Rhododendron indicum

Deciduous or evergreen shrubs, growing up to 2 m in height, with lush branches. The shoots are covered with brown hairs. The leaves are pubescent with reddish hairs, green in color (dark above and light below), shiny. The edge of the leaf has tiny teeth, the leaf blade has a linear-lanceolate shape, reaches 3-4 cm in length. The flowering period is early summer. Blooms with bright red funnel-shaped flowers.

Rhododendron catawbiense

Two-meter evergreen shrubs. The leaves are petiolate, green (light below and dark above), pubescent below with dirty orange hairs that disappear over time, oval or elongated oval in shape (up to 15 cm long). The flowering period occurs at the end of spring - beginning of summer. The flowers grow on pubescent pedicels, 20 in an inflorescence, red-violet in color.

Beautiful rhododendron / Rhododendron pulchrum

Evergreen two-meter shrubs with pubescent shoots. The leaves are oval-lanceolate (up to 10 cm long and no more than 4 cm wide), shiny, covered with hairs that fade over time, the edge is smooth and whole. It blooms with purple-pink funnel-shaped flowers.

Rhododendron calendulaceum

Three-meter shrubs with pubescent straight shoots, shedding foliage. The leaves are oval-shaped, pubescent below, tapering towards the apex, up to 8 cm long, and usually no more than 3 cm wide. Flowering period: late spring - early summer. Flowers yellow color, may have an orange tint, have no smell, and are funnel-shaped.

Pontic rhododendron / Rhododendron ponticum

The shrubs are usually no higher than 3 m in height, not deciduous, with bare adult shoots that are initially slightly pubescent. The leaves are elongated-lanceolate (length - 15 cm, width - 5 cm), not pubescent, shiny, dark green. Blooms from mid-spring to early summer. Bell flowers grow in groups of about 15 in wide inflorescences and smell pleasant. There are varieties of yellow, white and purple-pink flowers.

Rhododendron simsii / Rhododendron simsii

Shrubs are one and a half to three meters tall, usually not deciduous, with heavily pubescent young shoots. The leaves are ovoid-oval, up to 5 cm long, pubescent on both sides (more pubescent on the bottom). Flowers, depending on the species, can be red, salmon, purple, white flowers, and also be simple, terry or semi-double. Bloom in different time, depending on the variety.

Rhododendron obtusum

Usually one and a half meter evergreen shrubs with pubescent shoots. Spring leaves are oval-lanceolate, light green, large; summer ones are dark green in color, smaller than spring ones, ovoid in shape, tapering towards the stem, shiny. The flowering period occurs in mid-late spring. The flowers are funnel-shaped, fragrant, few in number, and come in shades of red, pink and orange.

4.5 Rating 4.50 (14 votes)

• Back
• Forward

After this article they usually read

Indoor rhododendron (lat. Rhododendron)

Family– heather

Origin– China, India, Japan

Among indoor rhododendron species, there are two most common: Sims's Rhododendron (Rhododendron simsii) and Rhododendron obtusum (dwarf shrubs ranging in size from 30 to 50 cm in height).

By the way, indoor rhododendron is often called azalea, and this is partly true, since today some types of rhododendron are called azalea. Previously, azalea was classified as a separate species.

Types of home rhododendron

Caring for indoor rhododendron at home

Temperature. Autumn/winter – cool temperature (11-14 °C), spring/summer – room temperature (18-22 °C). The plant does not like higher temperatures.

Lighting. Soft sunlight. No direct rays!

Watering. Indoor rhododendron should be watered only with settled water, since the plant does not tolerate chlorine and lime. Additionally, it is better to slightly acidify the water with lemon juice.

The soil should always be moist, so watering should be frequent (reduce slightly in winter). During the flowering period, azaleas must be sprayed from below.

Feeding. Spring/summer - special mineral fertilizer without chlorine once every 2 weeks; during the period of bud setting - superphosphate in a dosage of 15 grams per 10 liters of water.

Earth mixture. Heather soil, hydroponics. If not, a mixture of peat and coniferous soil in a 1:2 ratio with a small part of river sand can be a good replacement.

Transfer. After indoor rhododendron blooms in the spring, it is transplanted into acidic soil in a low, wide pot. The procedure is performed once a year for young plants and once every two to three years for adults (the roots are delicate, so replanting must be done carefully to avoid damage).

Reproduction. Typically, propagation of indoor rhododendron is carried out from May to August, semi-lignified stem cuttings. They need constant watering and spraying. During the propagation period, the cuttings are covered plastic bag or a jar. The required temperature for rooting is 20-25 °C. The development of the root system occurs within a month and a half, after which the cuttings are planted in a pine-peat mixture in small pots.

Possible problems when growing indoor rhododendron

Short flowering. The cause may be dry air, direct sunlight, or lack of watering. Solution: move the plant pot away from heating systems and spray it with water daily.

Yellow leaves. There is clay in the soil or water for irrigation. Solution: water only with soft, acidified water.

Leaf crinkling. Reasons: dry air, very bright sun, high temperature, insufficient watering. Solution: increase air humidity, remove the plant from sunlight, increase watering.

Pests and diseases of indoor rhododendron

Hairy aphid– settles on young shoots, and in case of serious damage – on leaves. To combat mild lesions, simply take a cotton swab or soft brush, moisten it with soapy water and clean the plant. After a break of 7-10 days, spray three times with a solution of soapy water or pharmaceutical tincture calendula.

Tarzanemus mite- one of the most difficult azalea pests to remove. It settles on buds, flowers, young leaves, but it is quite difficult to see it with the naked eye. The appearance of a mite on your plant will be indicated by lightening of the leaves, curling of young shoots, and lack of flowering (if the damage is severe). A means of combating ticks is an infusion of wood ash (per 10 liters hot water dilute 500 grams of ash, leave for 24 hours, strain). Repeat the procedure three times in 7-10 days.

Septoria– a disease caused by a fungus of the genus Septoria. The leaves of affected plants develop rusty or brownish-gray spots. At an advanced stage of the infection, rhododendron leaves dry out and fall off. To protect against the fungus, the plant is sprayed every 10 days with one percent Bordeaux mixture.

Victoria Bagheera specifically for the site All about flowers

2012, . All rights reserved. The use of site materials in any form is prohibited. Copying articles with a link to the source is only with the written permission of the site administration.

Discussion: 3 comments

thank you, very comprehensive information

They gave me a rhododendron, but the leaves turned yellow and the flower died.

Azaleas are valued for the abundance and beauty of their blooms. Photos with beautiful flowers do not leave anyone indifferent, and flower growers have a desire to admire such beauty in person. In addition, the buds bloom in winter, when there is especially little bright colors. Planting and growing indoor rhododendron at home requires knowledge and strict adherence to the rules of flower care. But even the capriciousness of the azalea will not prevent a novice gardener who really decides to grow this plant from caring for it.

Description of the plant

Azalea, often found on sale under the name "indoor rhododendron", is part of the genus Rhododendron, which belongs to the Ericaceae family. Although this division is quite arbitrary. Azaleas are compact evergreens, suitable for cultivation at home. Rhododendrons are distinguished by the fact that they shed their leaves for the winter and, due to their large dimensions, are used only in landscape design.

The dimensions of rhododendrons sometimes reach impressive sizes.

The name of the plant was given by the famous Swedish botanist and systematizer Carl Linnaeus. Translated from Greek it means “dry”. This is what an azalea looks like before flowering.

Europe became acquainted with azaleas quite a long time ago, at the end of the 17th century. However, this plant began to be widely cultivated only 50 years later. And the first breeding hybrids appeared only two centuries later. The plant appeared in Russia at the beginning of the 20th century.

Europeans believe that a blooming azalea brings happiness to the home. Therefore, those who grow it always try to ensure that on the Christmas table there is a pot with a bush densely strewn with bright buds.

In nature, azaleas are compact, low shrubs. They can most often be found in Southeast Asia, Japan and China. But individual species live in Western Europe, USA, Russia (Caucasus, Far East, Eastern Siberia).

The azalea bush is characterized by intensive branching. Young shoots are densely covered with short “pile” of grayish or light brown color; as they mature, they become smooth. The leaves are small (2.5–4 cm in length), ellipsoid or lanceolate, densely pubescent on the underside. They are thin, but tough, smooth to the touch, dark green, glossy and shiny. Flowers on very short stalks are located in the axils of the leaves, 2–6 pieces each..

Most azalea species live in Southeast Asia

Azaleas buds open under New Year or immediately after it. There are so many of them that the leaves are practically invisible. Flowering continues until mid-spring. Azaleas bloom annually when they are 3–4 years old.

The opened flowers are shaped like bells. They have five or six petals, but breeders have bred semi-double and double hybrids. To the natural shades (snow-white, pink, crimson, scarlet) they added purple, brick, coral, lilac, dark purple (almost black). Yellow is very rare, but there are no blue azaleas yet. There are also variegated petals (a white or pinkish background covered with thin red strokes and stripes), as well as corrugated ones.

Beware, poisonous plant

All parts of the plant are poisonous! They contain substances that cause muscle cramps and negatively affect the central nervous system. However, in the East they have learned to “squeeze lemonade out of lemon”, after pre-treatment, using the stems, leaves and flowers of azalea to treat certain diseases, in particular, cardiac arrhythmia, tachycardia, hypertension, stye on the eye, and nail fungus.

Video: appearance of azaleas

Types popular with amateur gardeners (homebush, Indian, Japanese, jasmine, Vogel mix, nabucco and others)

The most popular varieties of azaleas grown in garden conditions:

• Homebush azalea. A shrub reaching a height of 1 m. The flowers are double, raspberry-pink in color. Blooms profusely in May-June. The variety is able to withstand low temperatures;
• White azalea resembles a jasmine bush (which is why it is sometimes called jasmine). The plant reaches 60 cm in height. The flowers are double or non-double, except for white ones, but also with a pink tint. Interesting feature plants - planted next to other varieties of azaleas, jasmine may change color;
• azalea nabucco has considerable growth - up to 2 m. The crown is spreading, the flowers are wide open, bright red.

Of the variety of azaleas, only two have successfully adapted to home conditions:

Varieties for home cultivation

Most of the flowers that stand on the windowsills are selective hybrids bred on the basis of the Indian azalea. The most popular of them:

• Snowflake. The bush is characterized by intensive branching. It is valued for its resistance to various fungal and bacterial diseases. The flowers are single, mauve, large (5–7 cm in diameter). The petals are covered with small brick-colored specks;
• Albert-Elizabeth. Flowering begins in February. Very large flowers with a diameter of 8–9 cm. Petals are snow-white or soft pink with a wide crimson or bright crimson border and corrugated edges;
• Celestina. A spreading bush, the buds open in early spring or even later. The flowers are single, bright crimson, 6–7 cm in diameter;
• Starfish. At the base of the snow-white petals, it was as if crimson paint had been shaken off a brush;
• Melina. The hybrid was bred on the basis of the Japanese azalea. The height of the plant is up to 30 cm, the diameter of the bush is 60 cm. The leaves are silvery-gray. The flowers are small (5 cm), different shades pink. The edges of the petals are heavily corrugated;
• Madame Joly. Deciduous variety. The height of the bush is about 1.5 m. The flowers are simple, pink. The bases of the petals are yellow-orange. Blooms in late spring;
• Czardas. The height of the bush is about 1 m. The buds open in April. The petals have a very rare creamy yellow tint. The flowers are double and emit a pleasant aroma. The hybrid is very demanding sunlight, with its deficiency, the diameter of the flowers decreases, the brightness of the petals noticeably decreases;
• Satan. Plant height is up to 1.5 m. Very bright single flowers with flame-colored petals. Against the general scarlet background, yellow reflections seem to dance. This is especially noticeable on inside;
• Warbler. The height of the bush is 1.2–1.5 m. The crown, even without pruning, takes the shape of an almost regular ball. The flowers are snow-white, with two corollas, one of which seems to be inserted into the other;
• Golden Lights. It is distinguished by its abundance of flowering and frost resistance. The petals are golden yellow. Flowers are 6–7 cm in diameter. Plant height is about 1 m;
• Azure. The flowers are more than 10 cm in diameter. The color of the petals is very rich, blackberry, with bright crimson specks on the inside;
• Koichiro Wada. Hybrid chameleon. Unopened buds are crimson-pink, the flowers themselves are much paler. Gradually they change color to white. The variety is frost-resistant and relatively unpretentious.

Photo gallery: hybrid azaleas

Snowflake is valued by gardeners for its resistance to bacterial and fungal diseases. Albert Elizabeth is distinguished by the large size of its variegated flowers. Celestine blooms most often in the spring. Starfish has very pure snow-white petals covered with crimson speckles. Melina, unlike most hybrids, is bred on the basis of Japanese azalea
The Madame Joly variety has simple, non-double flowers with petals of a very delicate pink color. Chardas has a very rare shade of petals, and the flowers emit a pleasant aroma
The shade of the petals of the azalea variety Satan resembles a flame. The azalea Slavka has a very interesting shape of flowers. Azalea Golden Lights is distinguished by its abundance of flowering even against the background of its “relatives.” The azalea Azure, despite its name, has deep purple petals. The buds of the azalea Koichiro Wada gradually change color from bright pink to snow-white

How to create optimal conditions for a plant

Azalea is poorly adapted to microclimate modern apartments, especially when there are radiators running there. Therefore, the gardener will have to try to create conditions suitable for her and maintain them.

Table: required microclimate for growing azaleas indoors (temperature, spraying, lighting)

Factor	Recommendations
Location	The best option is the window sill of a window facing east or west. Regular ventilation of the room is mandatory. In summer, azalea can live on a balcony, veranda or in the garden. If possible, bury the flower along with the pot in the shade of a tree. The plant is returned back to the room in early or mid-August, without waiting for cold weather.
Lighting	Bright diffused light and protection from direct sunlight. In winter and in cloudy weather, fluorescent or special phytolamps are used to extend daylight hours to 10 hours.
Temperature	12–15ºС during the active growing season and 6–8ºС in autumn (approximately 1.5–2 months). For selection hybrids - 20–22ºС and 14–16ºС, respectively. To ensure optimal performance, the pot is covered with snow or ice. This temperature is necessary condition formation of new flower buds. Azalea has a very negative attitude towards its sharp fluctuations (in any direction).
Air humidity	The optimal figure is about 70%. Azalea categorically does not tolerate dry air. In summer, in extreme heat and during heating season it is regularly sprayed (so that drops of water do not fall on the petals).

How to plant and replant

When replanting, you should be careful, it is better to work with gloves, not forgetting about the toxicity of the plant.

Time and reasons for transplantation

Azalea grows quite quickly and branches intensively, so young plants need annual replanting. For adults, one procedure once every 2-3 years is enough, when the roots tightly entwine the earthen ball or a layer of moss appears on the surface of the soil. You can replant the plant immediately after flowering.

Choosing a pot

Azaleas have a superficial root system, so they do not need a large and deep pot. The best option is a container similar to a salad bowl or soup plate.

The azalea pot should be shallow

Soil composition

Azaleas prefer acidic substrate, which is quite atypical for indoor plants(pH 4.5–5.0). It is maintained at the desired level by watering the flower with a 0.2% solution every 5–6 weeks. citric acid or aspirin (tablet for 1 cup of water). Other requirements for the soil are nutritional value, fibrousness, looseness and good aeration. There is ready-made soil on sale, designed specifically for rhododendrons (most often, pure heather soil), but you can prepare it yourself from coniferous soil, peat chips and coarse river sand (6: 3: 1).

How to replant an azalea

The step-by-step transplant process is as follows:

1. Remove the old plant from the pot, trying to destroy the earthen ball as little as possible. This is easier to do if you water the soil moderately about 30–45 minutes in advance.
2. Using a sharp, disinfected knife, cut off approximately 1.5–2 cm of fringe at the bottom of the earthen ball. You can also make shallow cuts on the sides and slightly fluff the roots.
3. IN new pot pour expanded clay or other drainage material layer of at least 3 cm. On top - about the same amount of new substrate.
4. Place the earthen ball in a new container, add fresh soil. Gently shake the pot several times to distribute the soil evenly.
5. Water the plant thoroughly. The best option is to immerse it for 45–60 minutes in a basin of water at room temperature, then allow excess moisture to drain.
6. Place the pot in a wide planter, filling the space between the walls with wet sphagnum moss or coconut fiber. As it dries, it needs to be moistened.
7. The roots of the azalea will gradually become exposed - this is a natural process. To prevent them from drying out, mulch the soil in the pot with peat chips every 4-6 months. wood shavings, sawdust, pine needles.

Features of transplantation after purchase

Flower growers advise replanting azaleas immediately after purchase. This must be done due to the fact that plants, as a rule, are in transport soil and are treated with various synthetic substances to preserve their presentation. However, azaleas are often purchased while they are in bloom, and replanting in this state is difficult for the plant to tolerate. Therefore, the choice remains with the florist.

How to properly care for a plant

Watering: when, how, how much

The substrate in the container with the plant should always be slightly moist. Both overdrying (even short-term) of the soil and stagnation of moisture in the pot are equally destructive for the flower. Alternate between regular watering from a watering can with a long narrow spout and the immersion method. After 4–5 hours, excess moisture must be drained from the pan.

IN optimal conditions For azaleas, one watering every two days is enough. In extreme heat, their number can reach up to two per day. Very warm water the plant does not like it, just warm it to room temperature. For sanitary purposes and to increase air humidity, it is useful to spray the azalea and the surrounding air with a fine spray bottle weekly or even twice a week (except for the flowering period).

Only soft water is used, ideally rain or melt water. Tap water should be left for at least a day with the addition of citric acid or apple cider vinegar (until a precipitate forms in the form of whitish or grayish flakes), passed through a filter or boiled.

Feeding: what fertilizers will be needed

Azaleas require feeding from late spring to mid-summer, as well as during the formation of buds, at the end of flowering and at the beginning of active growth. When new flower buds are formed, natural organic matter (infusions) is most beneficial cow dung and bird droppings), alternating with complex mineral fertilizers. It is enough to feed the plant once every 20–25 days. Forming buds love superphosphate (1.5 g per 1 liter of water). Azaleas are watered with the solution twice with an interval of 7–10 days. The rest of the time, ammonium sulfate is suitable, ammonium nitrate and other nitrogen-containing fertilizers (2 g per 1 liter of water).

Azalea really does not like chlorine, so before purchasing a specific product, carefully study the composition.

Trimming

How more luxuriant bush, the fewer buds are formed on it. Therefore, adult plants are pruned immediately after flowering, leaving 4–5 leaves on all branches formed last year. Shoots that violate the crown configuration, are curved, or weakly growing - are cut to the ground. Young sprouts next to emerging ones flower buds carefully pluck out.

Formation of a tree on a headquarters (bonsai)

Using pruning, you can create a tree with a trunk approximately 20–30 cm high. To do this, choose the strongest and most even shoot, getting rid of all the rest. It is fixed in a vertical position, tied to a support and turning the pot every 2-3 days. All lateral growth is immediately removed. When the stem reaches the desired height, the tip of the shoot is pinched. From the shoots that then appear, 4–6 are selected, located at an equal distance from each other around the trunk. Then you can form another 2-3 tiers.

It is much easier to form a beautiful bush. Young azaleas are pinched at a height of 10–15 cm. The same is done with the shoots that appear annually until the plant takes the shape of a regular ball or close to it.

Bloom

To prolong the pleasing spectacle as much as possible, it is recommended to cover the pot with azalea with ice or snow. This inhibits the development of leaf buds, they practically do not grow, and accordingly, the flowers last longer.

As soon as the buds wither, they are immediately removed. After flowering ends, be sure to cut off the resulting “boxes” so that the plant does not waste energy on ripening seeds.

If you cover the pot with ice, you can make your azalea bloom longer.

Rest period

In mid-November or early December, azaleas begin a dormant period that lasts for one and a half to two months. Water “resting” azaleas very carefully, exclusively through a tray, spraying no more than once every two weeks (preferably not the plants themselves, but the air around them). Be sure to lower the temperature.

Common mistakes of a beginning gardener

Azalea is quite capricious and most often reacts to errors in care by the absence or short duration of flowering, and deformation of the buds. But other alarming symptoms may also arise. Therefore, you need to learn how to correctly interpret the signals given by the plant.

Table: how azalea reacts to errors in care (why the plant can dry out, shed leaves, look lethargic)

What does the plant look like?	What is the reason?
The leaves droop, lose their tone, and become covered with wrinkles.	Too little and/or infrequent watering or low air humidity. Other possible causes are extreme heat and/or bright sun.
Azalea quickly sheds its blooming flowers.
The leaves are turning yellow.	Unsuitable clay substrate or use of hard and/or cold water for irrigation.
Leaves fall.	The indoor air is too dry. Other possible reason- unsuitable temperature (high or low).
Leaves and young shoots dry out.	Lack of light or improper feeding. This can also be caused by untimely transplantation (especially during flowering) or another stressful situation.
Growth is inhibited and very few buds are formed.	Unsuitable soil, too narrow a pot that does not allow the root system to develop properly, or lack of fertilizer.

What to do to resuscitate an azalea

Almost all problems that arise when growing azaleas can be solved.

Azalea doesn't bloom

The plant can bloom if the following factors are met:

• low temperature during the dormant period (6–8 o C), necessary for the formation of flower buds;
• the plant should be shaded from direct light;
• sufficient, but not excessive watering;
• proper pruning;
• fertilizing with fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium;
• choosing the right pot (shallow and low).

Leaves wither and fall

Leaves will fall off due to excessively dry air in the room. Working system central heating should be away from the azalea. Do not forget to spray the air, maintaining the required humidity (about 70%).

The plant is drying up

An azalea can dry out due to several factors. To avoid this problem, you should:

• adjust the feeding regime;
• provide the plant with good lighting;
• replant carefully, without damaging the roots and leaves;
• Water and spray the air in a timely manner.

Azalea turns black

Perhaps it is a fungal disease, such as fusarium, or pest damage. To revive the bush, you will have to resort to help chemicals. Be also prepared to repot the plant, as fresh soil will help the plant recover.

Leaves curl and turn yellow

This is how the plant can react to an unsuitable substrate. If you are a beginner gardener, it is better not to make the mixture yourself, but to purchase the necessary soil in a specialized store. In addition to this reason, pay attention to the water used for irrigation - for irrigation, azaleas need soft, room temperature water.

The leaves are drying up

In this case, you also need to reconsider the feeding regime. The cause of drying leaves may be insufficient watering. You need to lower the pot into a container filled with water.

Video: the difficulties of growing azaleas

How to protect azalea from pests

Azaleas have a specific pest - the azalea moth. But this does not mean that it is not attacked by other insects, which are not stopped even by the poisonousness of the plant. However, pathogenic fungi are the most dangerous for the flower.

A number of simple preventive measures will help to significantly reduce the risk of infection:

• placing newly acquired plants in quarantine for at least a month;
• placing indoor flowers and bouquets as far as possible from each other, if possible in different rooms;
• regular ventilation of the room and spraying of azaleas (except for the flowering period);
• strict adherence to plant care recommendations, especially those related to watering and fertilizing;
• using only sterilized soil, clean pots and tools;
• weekly irradiation of azalea leaves quartz lamp within 2–3 minutes.

Table: how to save azalea from diseases and pests

Disease or pest	External manifestations	Control measures
Fusarium	Yellowing and withering leaves, rotting shoots and roots.	Cut off the most severely affected parts of the plant. Spray the azalea with a 2% solution of any fungicide (Bordeaux mixture, HOM, Skor, Abiga-Pik). For 2–3 weeks, replace the irrigation water with a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate or Fitosporin, Trichodermin.
Septoria	Rapidly growing red-brown or brown spots on leaves.	Immediately isolate the diseased plant, if it is severely damaged, throw it away. Treat the azalea with Ordan, Ridomil-Gold, Previkur. Repeat 2-3 times at intervals of 5-7 days.
Phyllosticosis	Small irregular ash-gray or brownish spots on back side leaves.	Stop spraying, reduce watering. Cut off all affected leaves. Treat the plant and water the soil with a 2% solution of any fungicide. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 10-12 days.
Azalea moth	The caterpillars scrape tissue from the leaves, which become almost transparent, dry out and fall off.	Hang fly-catching tape near your azalea to catch flies. Fumigate the plant with colloidal sulfur or spray it with the same solution every day for a week.
Spider mite	A thin cobweb entwining the leaves and buds, small brown-black dots on the underside of the leaves.	Wipe the leaves with alcohol or alcohol tincture, and after 15–20 minutes, rinse in the shower. Treat with Neoron, Apollo, Vermitek - spray generously, cover with a plastic bag, leave for 2-3 days. Repeat 2-3 times with an interval of 7-12 days, changing medications.
	Gray-brown tubercles on the leaves. Gradually they increase in volume, the surrounding tissues change color to red or yellow.	Using a cotton swab, apply kerosene, vinegar, and turpentine to the shells of pests. After 2–3 hours, remove the scale insects. Wipe the leaves with soapy foam and wash off after an hour. Treat the flower with Metaphos, Phosbecid. Repeat 1-2 times with an interval of 7-10 days.
	Whitish coating and lumps on the underside of the leaf and at the base of the shoots.	Wipe the leaves with a soap-alcohol solution, and after 40–45 minutes, rinse with warm water. Treat with Rogor, Phosfamide, Nurell-D. Repeat 1-2 times with an interval of 7-14 days.
	Small whitish butterflies that rise from a flower whenever you touch it.	Place fly-catching tape or homemade traps near the azalea. Early in the morning, vacuum up pests. Treat the flower with Aktara, Admiral, Commander. The course of treatment is 6–8 weeks (one procedure every 5–7 days).
	Thin silvery and yellowish streaks, small brown ones - on the underside of the leaves.	Apply to places largest accumulation pests, onion or garlic pulp, leave for a day, rinse with water. Treat the flower and shed the soil with Inta-Vir, Mospilan, Fitoverm. Repeat in a week.

Photo gallery: photos of common diseases and pests

Spider mites are not insects, so special preparations are used to combat them - acaricides. The scale insect is protected by a durable shell, therefore folk remedies they are ineffective against it. If no measures are taken, the leaves affected by the mealybug will become deformed and dry out. Adult whiteflies are flying insects, so sticky tape for catching flies works well against them. Thrips are insects that feed on plant sap; even the toxicity of azaleas does not stop them

Flower propagation at home

It is quite difficult to propagate azaleas at home. This applies to all methods.

How to root cuttings

The most suitable time for cuttings is late spring-early summer.

1. Cut cuttings from young, semi-lignified shoots at an angle of approximately 45º with a sharp, clean knife. Remove the leaves from the bottom half. The optimal cutting length is 5–8 cm.
2. Sprinkle the wounds with any powdered root formation stimulator (Kornevin, Zircon, Heteroauxin) or omit planting material for 5–6 hours in a solution of one of the drugs.
3. For rooting, plant the cuttings in containers filled with a mixture of peat chips, perlite, vermiculite, 1–2 cm deep. Cover them with transparent bags, cut plastic bottles or glass covers.
4. Place the pots in a warm place with a temperature of 22–25ºС, provide bottom heating and bright but diffused light. As it dries, spray the soil with water warmed to room temperature and ventilate the plantings daily for 1–2 hours.
5. After 1.5–2 months, roots should appear. When the azalea produces 2-3 new leaves, transplant it into an unheated container filled with coniferous soil.
6. After 2-3 months, pinch the top of the bush for more intensive branching. If buds appear, remove them.
7. Next spring, replant in soil suitable for adult plants and care for them as usual.

Video: how to propagate azalea from cuttings

Graft

The method is used mainly for rare varieties or for those that are difficult to take root. As a rootstock, use a sprout of another, less capricious azalea, 15–20 cm long with well-developed roots. It is necessary to have an “eye” (growth point) on both cuttings.

1. Using a sharp, disinfected razor blade, make oblique cuts of approximately the same length with a depth of no more than 0.5 mm on the rootstock and scion.
2. Combine mother plant and the cutting, wrap it in polyethylene.
3. Place the azalea in a mini-greenhouse at home or under a large one. glass jar in soil suitable for mature plants.
4. Do not allow the soil to dry out; ventilate the plant daily. Bottom heating is not needed, but bright diffused light and a temperature of about 25ºC are required.
5. As soon as the scion begins to grow, remove the cover. Gradually (over about a month) accustom the azalea to its usual conditions.

Germination of seeds

At home, this method is rarely used. Azalea seeds do not ripen due to the fact that the boxes containing them are cut off immediately after flowering. In addition, such plants do not always retain varietal characteristics - the shade of the petals and their fullness. It makes sense to purchase only seeds collected a maximum of three months before purchase.

To grow an azalea from seeds, you need the following algorithm of actions:

1. Fill shallow containers with peat crumbs. It needs to be moistened with a spray bottle and leveled.
2. In early spring, sow the seeds without covering them with soil.
3. Cover the container with glass or plastic film, place it on the sunniest windowsill. Provide bottom heating.
4. Ventilate the plantings daily and spray the substrate with soft, warm water.
5. The first shoots will appear in 10–12 days, mass shoots in 20–25. On average, 7 out of 10 seeds germinate.
6. When the first pair (false leaves) have fully unfurled, pick up the azaleas, planting them 3-4 cm apart. Bury them all the way down to the leaves.
7. At the end of summer, move the seedlings into individual pots with a diameter of 5–7 cm, filled with soil suitable for adult plants.