Homemade cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner: a guide to action. DIY cyclone filter

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Making a cyclone for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands will not be difficult if you have experience working with tools. The installation, called a cyclone, acts as an effective air purifier from small debris and dust. Many woodworking machines are equipped with nozzles for chip removal. A homemade cyclone is connected to this pipe.

People who were on the territory industrial enterprises, paid attention to the conical structures with their apex facing downwards. These are industrial cyclones designed to clean polluted air. The problem of creating a cyclone filter with your own hands worries owners of home workshops.

The operation of a cyclone is as follows:

Littered air flow it flows through a hose from the machine nozzle into a separate chamber;
Air enters the container through a side pipe installed at the top of the cyclone body;
At the top of the body, a flexible hose is connected to the vertical air duct and connected to the vacuum cleaner;
The vacuum cleaner provides traction to the air flow inside the device;
A vortex flow is created in the chamber, moving spirally along the walls of the chamber - from top to bottom;
Solid particles fall down into the chamber opening and then end up in the waste bin;
The purified air rushes upward, passing through the filter, and enters the vacuum cleaner hose;
At the end of the work, the accumulated debris (chips and dust) is removed from the storage tank.

Can be purchased finished product to clean the air from contaminants (sawdust, dust and debris), but the simplicity of the device attracts many minds to making a cyclone with their own hands. The variety of auxiliary materials, as well as the availability of universal tools, allows you to create cyclones of a wide variety of models.

A self-made filter does not take much time and saves cash. Let's present several options for making cyclone filters with your own hands.

Cyclone made of plastic buckets

As the body of the device, you can use 10 liter plastic buckets from under water-based paint. Prepare the following tools and materials.

Tools

construction knife;
marker or pencil;
compass;
jigsaw;
screwdriver;
hacksaw;
awl;
glue gun

Materials

two plastic 10 liter buckets;
PVC water pipe and angle ø 32 mm;
car air filter;
glue stick;
construction plywood;
roofing iron;
self-tapping screws;
vacuum cleaner hoses;
wood glue;
sealant.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a cyclone

Remove the lids from the buckets. One of them is cut in half lengthwise.
The pipe section is enclosed in a box-shaped plywood structure.
Plywood boards are glued together with wood glue so that the pipe fits tightly inside the box.
The space between the pipe and the plywood is filled with sealant.
Make a template from cardboard or thick paper that follows the curve of the side surface of the bucket in its upper part (70 - 100 mm from the lid of the container).
Having attached the template to the box, draw a bend line with a pencil or marker.
Using a jigsaw, cut the box along with the pipe, following the intended line.
The structure is leaned against the bucket.
From the inside of the container, use a pencil to mark the contours of the pipe opening. This is done in such a way that the pipe enters the hole at an angle downwards (20 - 300 from the horizontal)
An opening is cut out with a knife.
Holes are pierced with an awl along the perimeter of the leaning plywood from the inside of the container.
Using a screwdriver and self-tapping screws, attach the plywood frame of the pipe to the bucket through the holes.
After checking the reliability of the box, with outside glue gun seal the contact perimeter.
A circle is cut out of roofing iron with a diameter equal to the inner circumference of the bucket - at a height of 70 mm from the bottom. Marking is done with a compass.
The tin circle is cut in half from the center to the edge.
The outer edges of the cut are spread at an angle of 300.
The shaped insert is installed in the bucket by surprise.
A screw-shaped tin insert will promote the swirling of sawdust, shavings and dust, which will quickly be sent to the storage tank (1/2 of the second bucket).
The bottom of the top bucket is cut off.
The cyclone chamber is tightly inserted into the storage tank.
A hole ø 32 mm is cut in the lid of the top bucket. This can be done with an appropriate reamer or knife.
A pipe 300 mm long is lowered into the hole so that a pipe 70 mm high remains outside.
The joint is treated with a glue gun.
The side pipe is connected with a hose to the nozzle of a woodworking machine or waste collector.
The protruding pipe from the bucket lid is connected to the vacuum cleaner hose.
In order for completely purified air to enter the vacuum cleaner, a cylindrical air filter is placed on the lower end of the pipe.
A patch is cut out of tin along the outer diameter of the filter. The patch (plug) is cut out with three tongues.
Three strips of tin are attached to the tongues of the plug with screws or rivets, the upper ends of which are bent.
The bends are attached to the back surface of the bucket lid with screws.
The connection between the plug and the lower hole of the filter is sealed with a glue gun.

The cyclone filter is ready for use. As needed top part The cyclone is removed from the storage tank and its debris is emptied. The filter is periodically cleaned with a toothbrush, moving the bristles into the folds of the corrugation.

You don't have to make a box frame side pipe, and cut and bend its outer edges. Then fasten the bent sides to the edges of the bucket hole with screws or rivets. But such a connection will be less reliable than the fastening described above.

Cyclone with figured insert

Take two plastic buckets - 5 and 10 liters. The cyclone is assembled as follows:

The top side of a 5 liter bucket is cut off with a knife.
The container is turned over and placed on a sheet of plywood. Outline a bucket with a pencil.
Using a compass, mark another circle, with a radius 30 mm larger.
Two holes are cut inside the ring using a crown and the contour of the shaped insert is applied.
The jigsaw blade is inserted one by one into these holes and a shaped insert and a fixing ring are cut out. The insert is an unfinished circle with an expanded base (100 mm).
The ring is applied to the back of the lid of a large bucket and outlined with a pencil.
The middle of the lid is cut out with a knife.
Use a drill to drill holes at the top of the small container.
The fixing ring is placed on the bucket. Using a screwdriver, screw the screws through the holes in the bucket into the ring.
A circle of lid from a 10 liter bucket is placed on the fixing belt with the side up.
The circle from the lid is secured with self-tapping screws to the fixing ring.
In the cyclone body, 2 holes ø 40 mm are made with a crown - on the side and on the top.
A square is cut out of plywood, in which an opening of the same diameter is made with a crown. The frame is placed on the cyclone body cover, aligning the holes. The frame is secured with self-tapping screws from the inside of the lid.
I install the shaped insert just below the fixing ring. Self-tapping screws are screwed into the outside of the container and go into the body of the insert.
A PVC pipe is inserted into the frame, the lower end of which does not reach the shaped insert by 40 mm. At the top, the pipe should protrude 40 mm above the surface of the lid.
The side opening of the cyclone body is expanded in the shape of a horizontal drop.
Glued into the opening with hot glue corner PVC pipe branch.
I put the chip ejector housing on a large bucket (storage) and snap the lid on.
A vacuum cleaner hose is inserted into the upper outlet. The side pipe is connected with a hose to the waste collection nozzle.
All joint seams are sealed with a glue gun or a syringe with sealant. The device is ready for use.

Many may ask: what is it for? figured insert? The insert forms the correct direction of air flow inside the cyclone. At the same time, the horizontal platform repels the air pressure upward and allows sawdust and other debris to gradually settle in the storage tank.

Chip extraction from the sewer riser

To make a chip extractor from plastic sewer fittings, you will need the following tools and materials.

Tools

angle machine;
drill;
glue gun;
riveter;
jigsaw;
construction knife.

Materials

PVC Sewer pipe ø 100 mm;
PVC pipe ø 40 mm;
hose;
rivets;
glue stick;
fixing rings - clamps;
two 2-liter bottles;
5 liter eggplant.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a chip ejector

The neck of the sewer riser is cut off, leaving a section 1 m long.
The plastic bottle is cut, leaving a part of the cylinder with a cone, neck and stopper.
Holes are drilled in both plugs. The plugs are glued together with a gun and tightened with a clamp.
The cut bottle is inserted into the lower hole of the riser. The connection is sealed with hot glue and tightened with a clamp.
A hole ø 40 mm is cut into the side of the PVC pipe. A pipe 70 mm long is inserted into it. The joints are sealed.
3 circles ø 100 mm are cut out of tin using a jigsaw.
A hole ø 40 mm is cut in the center of each circle.
The resulting disks are cut in half.
The halves are sequentially connected to each other with rivets, resulting in a screw.
A PVC pipe ø 40 mm is threaded inside the spiral. The pipe is connected to the screw with hot melt adhesive.
The entire structure is pulled into the riser so that the upper part of the pipe protrudes 100 mm above the riser opening. In this case, the auger must remain inside the cyclone body.
For a 5 liter eggplant, cut off the neck and bottom so that the lower part of the cone fits tightly onto the upper end sewer pipe. O.D connections are glued with a gun.
The upper hole of the neck is glued to the outlet of the inner pipe.
A storage bottle is screwed into the bottom cap.
Hoses are inserted into a horizontal pipe, the second end of which is connected to the nozzle of the shavings and sawdust collector of a woodworking machine (circuit saw, router or other equipment).
The vertical outlet is connected to the branch pipe by the hoses of the vacuum cleaner. The chip ejector is ready for use.

The debris “flows” down the surface of the auger and ends up in a bottle (garbage container). The air, freed from solid inclusions, goes up the inner tube. To clean the drive, just unscrew plastic bottle from the cork and shake out all its contents.

Cyclone from a road token

The original method of making a cyclone from a road chip attracts many homemade enthusiasts. The shape of the chip is a cone made of fairly thick plastic.

Proceed as follows:

The bottom and top of the cone are cut off with a hacksaw or circular saw.
The chip is turned over and inserted into suitable container, which will serve as a garbage container.
Measure the diameter of the upper opening and cut it out dense material round lid of the appropriate size.
A hole is cut in the lid with a crown into which a PVC pipe ø 40 mm is inserted.
Cut out a teardrop-shaped side hole into which a corner PVC pipe is glued.
All connections are treated with a hot glue gun.
The chip ejector is connected by hoses to a vacuum cleaner and a chip collection nozzle.

Upon completion of the work, the device is ready for use.

Do-it-yourself snail for chip removal

Power of a household vacuum cleaner for some types of processing wooden blanks may be insufficient. To clean large volumes of air, they make a snail-type chip extractor with their own hands. The body of the device resembles a snail shell in its shape.

Craftsmen make the snail body from two types of materials - metal and wood. Creating a metal case will require the use of welding machine and ability to operate this equipment. There is another way - making a snail from construction plywood.

To work with plywood in a home workshop, you need to have a jigsaw, drill and other woodworking tools. The most important detail exhaust fan is the air intake wheel. It is made from lightweight materials such as wood, plastic and the like. The impeller is assembled in such a way that the blades are curved or rotated with their inner edge relative to the wheel radius line by 450.

The outlet hole is connected with adapter couplings and hoses cyclone filter. The axis of the air intake wheel is connected directly to the electric motor shaft or a belt drive is installed, which is preferable to coaxial joining. Firstly, the pulley on the wheel axle is easier to isolate from the side opening of the volute, which increases the performance of the device. Secondly, the removal of the electric motor contributes to its necessary cooling.

The feasibility of using snails is due to large production volumes. The engine power is selected according to the operating mode of the exhaust fan. Usually it is enough to install a motor with a power of 5 kW to 30 kW asynchronous type. It is advisable to connect the power unit through a shaft speed control device.

Conclusion

A do-it-yourself cyclone filter not only ensures cleanliness in your home workshop or living space, but also protects the respiratory tract and lungs of the people around you. The existence of various “recipes” for making a cyclone with your own hands confirms that, if desired, every lover of making homemade products can do this.

In the process of various construction and repair work indoors, there is often a need to remove construction waste. It is not recommended to use a regular vacuum cleaner for this purpose, since there is a high probability of failure of the filter, or even the entire vacuum cleaner. For this purpose it is used construction vacuum cleaner, which is designed specifically for such work.

Let's look at what a construction (industrial) vacuum cleaner is and its main differences from a household one.

The power of a construction vacuum cleaner is several times greater than that of a household vacuum cleaner and can reach 4 kW. Thanks to this, you can easily remove construction debris, both small and large. With its help, you can easily remove cement dust, fragments of plaster, various fragments and sand, etc. The body of an industrial vacuum cleaner is mainly made of metal.

The vacuum cleaner has a reinforced filtration system. The motor of such a vacuum cleaner can work for a long time and withstand heavy loads, thanks to a special cooling system. The dust collector capacity of a construction vacuum cleaner is much larger than a conventional vacuum cleaner. All construction vacuum cleaners have an outlet for connecting power tools.

Such a vacuum cleaner costs more than a regular one, so many craftsmen try to make a construction vacuum cleaner with their own hands by remaking household vacuum cleaner, and often encounter certain difficulties.

This article contains the most successful technical solutions How to convert a household vacuum cleaner into a construction vacuum cleaner. If you have a medium-power vacuum cleaner at home, then if you wish, you can turn it into a construction vacuum cleaner. Or you can buy an inexpensive vacuum cleaner and, by improving it, turn it into an industrial one. To do this, you don’t have to remake the vacuum cleaner itself, you just need to make external filter DIY cyclone. Next, we will consider two main options for manufacturing such a filter with and without a cone.

A description of homemade cyclone filters is given in this article mainly to introduce you to general idea and the operating principle of such devices. This means that, having familiarized yourself with the design, you are not obliged to repeat it completely, but can make various changes to it, or using the basic idea, make a cyclone filter of a completely new design.

Operating principle of the cyclone filter

The operating principle of this filter is based on the passage of contaminated air through external device, in which large particles settle in its body, then the air is cleaned of fine dust, passing through the oil filter, and enters the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. Thus, the vacuum cleaner itself receives air that has already been purified from dust and debris.

Cyclone filter option 1 (without cone)

To make a cyclone filter with your own hands, you will need the following parts and materials:

Oil filter. It filters fine dust.
Bucket with a tight-fitting lid 20 l.
Polypropylene elbows, intended for water supply systems, and having an angle of 90 and 45 degrees and a diameter of 40 mm - 1 piece.
Plumbing pipe, plastic – 1 meter, diameter 40 mm.
A piece of corrugated pipe 2 meters long and 40 mm in diameter. You will need it to log into the device.

Manufacturing process

1. In the lid of the bucket, in the center, you need to cut a hole into which a 90-degree angle is inserted; a vacuum cleaner will be connected to it.

2. Seal the cracks with sealant.

3. Cut a hole in the side wall of the bucket and insert a 45 degree corner.

4. A piece of pipe is used to connect the corrugation to the elbow.
5. For a longer service life of the filter, you can pull a piece of nylon tights over it.

6. The filter outlet must be connected to the elbow in the bucket lid.

It may not be possible to fit the filter onto the outlet pipe. For this purpose, you need to come up with some kind of adapter. A piece of corrugation for a plumbing siphon may be suitable, or rubber hose a certain diameter. It is advisable to coat all connections with sealant. An oil filter can be purchased at a store that sells auto parts.

It must be borne in mind that when closing the inlet, the bucket may crack. Therefore, it is necessary to strengthen the walls of the bucket in some way, or provide something like a valve. The main thing is not to rush in this matter, measure all the connections, and then everything will work out for you.

Only one of the options is described above. There are many similar designs. Instead of a bucket, plastic barrels are used; there are designs where the role of a bucket is played by fan pipe. Many craftsmen make their own containers from tin or thin iron.

Some inventors design a cyclone filter using a cone. This design often uses a traffic cone.

Option 2 (using a traffic cone)

The following parts and materials will be required:

Road cone (can be purchased at a car store).
Two meter rods 8 mm.
Washers, nuts and lock washers 8 mm.
Corrugated tubes with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of about 2 meters - two pieces.

Manufacturing process

Cut off the stand at the very base of the cone. The cone is inserted into the bucket from above upside down. A tube is inserted inside the bucket. The space between the cone and the tube should be filled with construction foam.
Cut a square out of 20 mm thick plywood so that the base of the cone fits into it and still has some space left. 4 holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled in the corners of the square. A hole is cut in the center for the tube; a corrugated hose will be placed on it, connecting the device to the vacuum cleaner.
The lid for the bucket is cut out of multi-layer plywood and should fit tightly to the bucket. Glue a rubber gasket along its edges.
A hole is sawed in the lid with a diameter for the narrow end of the cone.
After the cone is inserted into the plywood cover, the joint is covered with foam. The cone should be placed upside down on the bucket, and is attached using four threaded rods, 50 cm long and 8 mm in diameter, they hold the plywood square with the cone screwed to it.
Not far from the base of the cone, in its wide part, a hole is drilled for a tube to connect to a corrugated hose. Various construction waste will be sucked through it.

A fine filter is not used in this version of the cyclone, so fine dust can enter the vacuum cleaner turbine. When constructing such devices, vacuum cleaners with a bag are mainly used. Therefore, fine dust, if it gets inside, settles in the bag.

Options for homemade construction vacuum cleaners with an additional cyclone filter allow craftsmen to test various options, without fear of ruining the vacuum cleaner itself, since most of the debris is retained by the filter.

When making a cyclone filter with your own hands, do not be afraid to experiment, and in the end you will definitely achieve the desired result.

If large and relatively large pieces of construction waste are easily transferred from the floor to bags, then construction dust is the scourge of repairs.

We turn our attention to the offers on the vacuum cleaner market: from 6,000 rubles.

Hmm, since it is not yet known whether there will be more orders for repairs after this is completed, the investment in a vacuum cleaner may not pay off. We turn our attention to homemade products. Let's Google. The principle of a cyclone filter has been known for a long time, we are studying the best practices of making it ourselves. There are very good designs, but they are difficult to manufacture. Still, you need a vacuum cleaner quickly, there is no time for a long fuss with it. But the general trend is clear: a standard vacuum cleaner + car filter+ barrel. In the bins there is a quite decent copy of a vacuum cleaner (priceless) An air filter from a Gazelle is bought at auto parts stores (180 rubles) The barrel is taken from a construction supermarket (I had to run around to different ones to find a suitable one and at a reasonable price. 500 rubles)

After purchasing the barrel I understand that it is essentially square. Even if the corners are rounded, you may not get a classic cyclone. Okay, I'll rely on a filter from Gazelle.

We can start. The hole in the lid has already been drilled, and pipes of the required diameters have also been found.

First I figure out how to attach the filter to the lid. A very lucky hole in it gives me the idea to use it. Firstly, a quick-release mount, and secondly, it still had to be covered with something. I cut out petals from tin (here Mercedes should pay some money for advertising)

And I make such a central screed.

The filter is on.

First fitting of the layout.

A piece of pipe tangentially and slightly downwards. This is the last time we see such a clean barrel.

Filter housing. The shape follows the expected flow of sandblasting (by the way, this is a topic, I should hang some part here and see if it can be sanded). It is necessary so that the dust does not immediately crash into the filter.

Guess what's on the filter?

Pioneers advise placing a woman's stocking over the filter to prevent large pieces of dirt from clogging the filter. The filter diameter is, however, too large. I barely pulled it on and tore it. In short, it works only partially.

The first test runs showed that the barrel does not have enough rigidity, the suction force is greater and therefore the barrel distorts, especially when the flow of dirt is dense. The sides need to be strengthened.

I thought about it and realized that building the shell inside is difficult and will worsen the already not ideal aerodynamics inside. That's why I make the shell from the outside. 25mm strip bent on my bending machine. Consists of two halves - for ease of installation. Attached from the inside with screws with large washers.

There is less messing around.

4 swivel wheels are attached to the frame (we had them lying around at the dacha).

And the final marriage of components.

A clever quick-release system for fastening the barrel with ropes. This is the best thing that came to mind.

And of course the product needs a name. Whatever you call it, it will float.

My DIY construction vacuum cleaner is called “Veterok-M”.

Handsome!

And it works like a beast. Already working hard at the site.

The cost of the product is 680 rubles + several working hours. If you don’t have a vacuum cleaner lying around, then the budget will increase by 1000 rubles (this is how lucky you are with buying a used one). But in any case, it’s much better (by an order of magnitude) than the ready-made vacuum cleaners sold. Another blow to the global corporations in the gut!

Today we will tell you about a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner in the workshop, because one of the problems that we have to deal with when working with wood is dust removal. Industrial equipment It’s quite expensive, so we’ll make a cyclone with our own hands - it’s not difficult at all.

What is a cyclone and why is it needed?

In a workshop there is almost always a need to remove fairly large debris. Sawdust, small trimmings, metal shavings - all this, in principle, can be caught by a regular vacuum cleaner filter, but it is highly likely to quickly become unusable. In addition, it will not be superfluous to be able to remove liquid waste.

The cyclone filter uses aerodynamic vortex to bind particles of different sizes together. Spinning in a circle, the debris manages to stick together to such a consistency that it can no longer be carried away by the air flow and settles at the bottom. This effect almost always occurs if the air flow passes through a cylindrical container at sufficient speed.

These types of filters are included in many industrial vacuum cleaners, but their cost is by no means affordable for the average person. At the same time, the range of problems solved using homemade devices, not at all anymore. A homemade cyclone can be used both in conjunction with planes, hammer drills or jigsaws, and for removing sawdust or shavings from various types of machine tools. In the end, even simple cleaning with such a device is much easier, because the bulk of dust and debris settles in a container, from where it can be easily removed.

Difference between wet and dry cyclone

To create a swirling flow, the main requirement is that the air entering the container does not follow the shortest path to the exhaust hole. To do this, the inlet pipe must have special form and be directed either to the bottom of the container or tangentially to the walls. Using a similar principle, it is recommended to make the exhaust duct rotary, optimally if it is directed towards the cover of the device. The increase in aerodynamic drag due to pipe bends can be neglected.

As already mentioned, a cyclone filter has the potential to remove liquid waste as well. With liquid, everything is somewhat more complicated: the air in the pipe and cyclone is partially rarefied, which promotes the evaporation of moisture and its breaking into very small droplets. Therefore, the inlet pipe must be located as close as possible to the surface of the water or even lowered under it.

In the majority washing vacuum cleaners Air is supplied to the water through a diffuser, so any moisture contained in it is effectively dissolved. However, for greater versatility with a minimum number of alterations, it is not recommended to use such a scheme.

Made from scrap materials

The simplest and affordable option For the cyclone container there will be a bucket of paint or other building mixtures. The volume should be comparable to the power of the vacuum cleaner used, approximately one liter for every 80-100 W.

The bucket lid must be intact and fit tightly onto the body of the future cyclone. It will have to be modified by making a couple of holes. Regardless of the material of the bucket, the easiest way to make holes is required diameter- use a homemade compass. IN wooden slats you need to screw in two self-tapping screws so that their tips are at a distance of 27 mm from each other, no more, no less.

The centers of the holes should be marked 40 mm from the edge of the cover, preferably so that they are as far apart as possible. Both metal and plastic can be scratched perfectly with this homemade instrument, forming smooth edges with virtually no burrs.

The second element of the cyclone will be a set of sewer elbows at 90º and 45º. Let us draw your attention in advance that the position of the corners must correspond to the direction of air flow. Their fastening in the housing cover is carried out according to the following scheme:

The elbow is inserted all the way into the side of the socket. Silicone sealant is first applied under the side.
WITH reverse side The rubber sealing ring is pulled tightly onto the socket. To be sure, you can additionally compress it with a screw clamp.

The inlet pipe is located with a narrow rotating part inside the bucket, the socket is located on the outside almost flush with the lid. The knee needs to be given another 45º turn and directed obliquely downwards and tangentially to the wall of the bucket. If the cyclone is made with wet cleaning in mind, you should extend the outer elbow with a piece of pipe, reducing the distance from the bottom to 10-15 cm.

The exhaust pipe is located in the reverse position and its socket is located under the bucket lid. You also need to insert one elbow into it so that air is taken from the wall, or make two turns for suction from under the center of the lid. The latter is preferable. Don’t forget about the O-rings; for a more reliable fixation and to prevent the knees from turning, you can wrap them with plumber’s tape.

How to adapt the device for machines and tools

To be able to draw in waste when using hand-held and stationary tools, you will need a system of adapters. Typically, a vacuum cleaner hose ends in a curved tube, the diameter of which is comparable to the fittings for dust bags of power tools. As a last resort, you can seal the joint with several layers of double-sided mirror tape wrapped in vinyl tape to eliminate stickiness.

With stationary equipment everything is more complicated. Dust extraction systems have very different configurations, especially for homemade machines, so we can only give a few useful recommendations:

If the machine's dust extractor is designed for a 110 mm or larger hose, use plumbing adapters with a 50 mm diameter to connect the corrugated hose of the vacuum cleaner.
To connect homemade machines to a dust catcher, it is convenient to use press fittings for 50 mm HDPE pipes.
When designing the dust collector housing and outlet, take advantage of the convection flow created by the tool's moving parts for greater efficiency. For example: a pipe for removing sawdust from circular saw must be directed tangentially to the saw blade.
Sometimes it is necessary to provide dust suction from different sides of the workpiece, for example, for band saw or a router. Use 50 mm sewer tees and corrugated drain hoses.

Which vacuum cleaner and connection system to use

Usually a vacuum cleaner for homemade cyclone They don’t choose on their own, but use what’s available. However, there are a number of limitations beyond the power mentioned above. If you want to continue using the vacuum cleaner for domestic purposes, then at a minimum you will need to find an additional hose.

The beauty of the sewer elbows used in the design is that they ideally match the diameter of the most common hoses. Therefore, the spare hose can be safely cut into 2/3 and 1/3, the shorter section should be connected to the vacuum cleaner. The other, longer piece, as is, is tucked into the socket of the cyclone inlet pipe. The maximum that is required in this place is to seal the connection silicone sealant or plumber's tape, but usually the planting density is quite high. Especially if there is an o-ring.

The video shows another example of making a cyclone for dust removal in a workshop

To pull a short piece of hose onto the exhaust pipe, the outermost part of the corrugated pipe will have to be leveled. Depending on the diameter of the hose, it may be more convenient to tuck it inside. If the straightened edge does not fit slightly onto the pipe, it is recommended to warm it a little with a hairdryer or indirect flame gas burner. The latter is considered an excellent option, because this way the connection will be located optimally in relation to the direction of the moving flow.

When processing wooden blanks, everyone has probably encountered the fact that everything around is covered with a large amount of shavings, sawdust and wood dust. To at least partially get rid of them, various dust collectors, chip suckers, filters and other devices are used. Many power tools and machines have their own dust collectors, while others have special outlets for connecting a vacuum cleaner.

In home workshops it would be better to use special ones. vacuum cleaner than a household one. Firstly, the engine is special. The vacuum cleaner is designed for more than long-term operation, and secondly, as a rule, it is equipped with a hose with a length of 3 m, which significantly simplifies its use with power tools. And yet, the downside of every vacuum cleaner is a small container for garbage.

How to make a cyclone filter with your own hands

Having set out to somehow simplify the work of cleaning a vacuum cleaner and reduce the cost of bags, I began to collect information on this issue. Found a description on the Internet different types simple devices in the form of intermediate dust collectors for a vacuum cleaner. Firstly, these are dust collectors in the form of a mini-cyclone. They perform their function well in collecting dust in a separate container, preventing it from getting into the vacuum cleaner, which increases the service life of the bags tens of times. The process of cleaning the dust collector from debris is also simplified. Ready-made devices They are sold through online stores, but their cost is quite high with a very simple design.

Design. I decided to make a mini-cyclone dust collector myself. The author and developer of this design is considered to be Bill Pentz from California. Having developed a serious allergy to fine wood dust, he subsequently devoted a lot of time and effort to fighting both the disease itself and its causes.

The dust collector is a device, the main element of which is an inverted truncated cone inserted bottom into a dust collection container. A tube for connecting to a vacuum cleaner is inserted into the upper part of the dust collector, and on the side, tangentially, there is a tube for connecting the hose from the tool.

When a vacuum cleaner draws in air inside the device, turbulence is formed, and debris, moving along with the air, is thrown by centrifugal forces to the inner walls of the filter, where they continue their movement. But as the cone narrows, the particles collide more often, slow down and, under the influence of gravity, fall into the lower container. And the partially purified air changes direction and exits through a vertically installed pipe and enters the vacuum cleaner.

There are two mandatory requirements for this design. This is, firstly, its tightness, otherwise there will be a sharp loss of suction power and quality of air purification. And, secondly, the rigidity of the container and the cyclone body itself - otherwise it tends to flatten.

There are tables on the Internet with drawings of cyclones for different particle sizes. You can make the cyclone body yourself from galvanized steel or plastic, or you can select a ready-made container of a similar shape. For example, I saw cyclones made on the basis traffic cone(necessarily hard), plastic flower vase, tin speaker, large copier toner tube, etc. It all depends on what size cyclone is needed. The larger the debris particles, the larger the diameter of the tubes for the connected hoses and the more massive the cyclone itself becomes.

Bill Pentz points out some of the features of his design. So, the smaller the diameter of the cyclone, the greater the load on the vacuum cleaner. And if the garbage container is low and flat, then there is a possibility of debris being sucked out of the container and falling into the vacuum cleaner. When using a container of any shape, it should not be filled to the top with debris.

Choice of material. I decided to use it as blanks plastic pipes for external sewerage and fittings for them. Of course, it will not be possible to create a full-fledged cone from them, but I was not the first to try to use them for this purpose. The advantage of this choice is the rigidity of the parts and the tightness of their connections due to the seals. Another plus is that there are various rubber pipe inserts that allow you to easily and tightly connect the vacuum cleaner hose. In addition, if necessary, the structure can be easily disassembled.

For mine, to collect large sawdust and shavings, I made a cyclone from a ∅160 mm pipe. I used ∅50 mm pipes as connectors for the hoses. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that the eccentric adapter from a pipe ∅110 mm to ∅160 mm must be funnel-shaped. I've seen flat ones, but they won't work - nothing will work with them, and the debris will get stuck.

Do-it-yourself cyclone work progress

Work order. In the plug for the ∅160 mm pipe and in the body pipe, I made holes for outlets for hoses. Next, using a heat gun, I glued a piece of ∅50 mm pipe into the plug. It should be located in the middle of the cyclone body and be a couple of centimeters below the side tube, so it is better to first glue a longer pipe into the plug and then cut it in place during assembly.

I found complaints online that the hot melt adhesive does not stick to PVC pipe, and advice to weld parts using a soldering iron and pieces of the pipe itself. I tried, but didn't do it. Firstly, the glue stuck perfectly to me, and secondly, the smell of melted plastic discouraged me from welding anything this way, although the connection would probably be stronger and more accurate.

The difficulty of working with hot-melt adhesive is that it does not spread, and if you lack the skills, the seam will not be very smooth. I had one like this sad experience- To straighten the seam, I decided to heat it with a hairdryer. I got a smooth surface of the adhesive bead, but at the same time the plastic tube itself was deformed and had to be thrown away.

In the next step, I glued a spiral to the inside of the case, which should direct the air flow down to the dust collector. This solution was recommended by Bill Pentz himself - according to him, this almost doubles the efficiency of the cyclone. The spiral with a height of about 20% of the gap should fit tightly to the body and make one turn in increments, equal to the diameter inlet for the side pipe.

As a material for it, I used a plastic rod, which I heated with a hairdryer and bent into a spiral shape. (photo 1), and then glued it into the body (photo 2) using a heat gun. Then I glued the side tube (photo 3), the inner end of which is directed slightly downwards.

Once the glue cooled and hardened, I measured and cut the vertical outlet tube so that it was 2-3 cm lower than the cut of the side tube, and finally assembled the entire structure.

The garbage container was made from hard plastic barrel, to the bottom of which I attached wheels - it turned out to be very convenient for cleaning it (photo 4). I cut a viewing window on the side of the barrel and covered it with acrylic glass on hot glue. I reinforced the connection from above with a plastic ring and bolts. Through such a porthole it is convenient to monitor the filling of the container.

I didn’t have a lid for the barrel, so I made it from a piece of countertop that had been waiting in the wings for a long time after installing a sink in the kitchen (photo 5). On the underside of the tabletop, I used a router to select a groove for the edges of the barrel and glued a window seal into it to make the connection tight. (photo 6). According to the rules, the hole in the lid should be made in the center, but then I would have problems with placing the cyclone in the workshop, so I made the hole offset. The lid is attached to the barrel using latches from a long-broken vacuum cleaner. I also used a hose from it to connect the cyclone. I would like to draw your attention to the fact that it is better to take hoses from vacuum cleaners. If we take, say, corrugated pipe for electrical wiring, when you turn on the vacuum cleaner, a whistling and terrible noise appears.

DIY cyclone for vacuum cleaner

Connecting the cyclone to the instrument. Not all tools have an outlet for a vacuum cleaner. So I decided to make a simple, adjustable vacuum cleaner hose holder. For him, I made blanks for levers from scraps of plywood. (photo 7). The holder was supplemented with a sewer clamp for attaching the hose (photo 8). I made the stand specially large sizes so that it is possible to secure it with a clamp or hold it with a weight. The holder turned out to be convenient - I use it not only for the vacuum cleaner hose, but also for a portable lamp, laser level and supporting a long workpiece in a horizontal position.

After assembling the cyclone, I conducted several experiments to determine its efficiency. To do this, I sucked up a glass of fine dust, and then measured its volume that fell into the dust collector container. As a result, I was convinced that approximately 95% of all garbage ends up in the barrel, and only very fine dust, and only a small amount, gets into the vacuum cleaner bag. I am quite happy with this result - now I clean the bag 20 times less often, and only for fine dust, which is much easier. And this despite the fact that my design is far from perfect in shape and proportions, which certainly reduces efficiency.

Wiring. After checking the performance of the cyclone, I decided to make a stationary distribution of hoses throughout the workshop, since a three-meter hose is certainly not enough, and a vacuum cleaner with a cyclone is bulky and clumsy, and it is inconvenient to move them around the workshop every time.

Thanks to the fact that they were used standard pipes, we managed to install such wiring in an hour. I pushed the vacuum cleaner and cyclone into the farthest corner, and laid pipes ∅50 mm around the workshop (photo 9).

In the workshop I use a specialized BOSCH green series vacuum cleaner. After four months When using it in conjunction with a cyclone, I can say that on the whole they cope with their task. But I would like to slightly increase the suction power (when working with a jigsaw you have to move the hose almost close to the cutting zone) and reduce the noise level. Since little shavings get into the vacuum cleaner itself, there is an idea to make a more powerful impeller and move it outside the workshop to the street.

I can also say that the suction power of the vacuum cleaner dropped a little when using it with a cyclone, but this is not very noticeable at work. There were doubts that static electricity could accumulate on the elements, since the entire structure is plastic, but practically this does not happen, although previously the hose had to be grounded when collecting fine dust.

Of course, when using professional pipelines with large outlet openings, this diameter is not enough. It is better to take ∅110 mm or more, but then both the vacuum cleaner and the cyclone must be more powerful. However, for my homework this is quite enough.

The vacuum cleaner hose was firmly secured to a small branch of the ∅50 mm pipe and inserted into the desired wiring location. The remaining wiring outputs are closed with plugs firmly placed on short bends. Moving the hose is a matter of seconds.

During operation I encountered one small problem. If a small pebble gets into the hose (my concrete floors haven’t been repaired for a long time) or another small, but heavy object, it moves through the pipes to the vertical section in front of the cyclone and remains there. When such particles accumulate, other debris clings to them, and a clog can form. Therefore, in front of the vertical section of the wiring, I embedded a camera made of a ∅110 mm pipe with an inspection window. Now all the heavy debris collects there, and by unscrewing the lid it is easy to get out. This is very convenient when a fastener or small part accidentally gets into the vacuum cleaner. It’s simple here - I unscrew the lid, turn on the vacuum cleaner and mix everything that remains in the revision with my hand. Small particles immediately fly into the cyclone container, while large particles remain and are easily removed. Their quantity is usually insignificant, but recently I found a missing screwdriver bit in such garbage.

Also, the inspection hole can be used to temporarily connect a hose ∅100 mm. Just unscrew the lid and you get a finished hole ∅100 mm. Naturally, in this case it is necessary to mute all other wiring inputs. To simplify connection, you can use a flexible adapter (photo 10).

To remotely turn on the vacuum cleaner, I installed a switch next to the hose clamp (photo 11) and additional. It can be used to connect a power tool, then you will definitely not forget to turn on the vacuum cleaner before using the tool - this happens to me often.

I use all of these devices regularly. I'm pleased with the result - there is noticeably less dust in the workshop, making cleaning easier. During this time, I collected several bags of sawdust, and very little debris accumulates in the vacuum cleaner. I want to check the cyclone for collecting small garden debris and dust when cleaning a concrete floor.

I think this design very useful and affordable to make at home.

Sergey Golovkov, Rostov region, Novocherkassk

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