Angle trimming of pvc edges. How to glue melamine edge: technology and step-by-step instructions with photos and videos

The end of a chipboard covered with melamine edge looks no worse, and sometimes even better, compared to gluing on an inexpensive machine. Today we will figure out how to glue melamine edge. Look detailed instructions step by step.

This furniture end tape is made from papyrus paper impregnated with melamine resins to protect it from external influences. The thickness of the furniture edge depends on the number of layers of paper used and is no more than 0.4 - 0.6 mm.

Edge width from 15 mm to 45 mm. The most popular sizes are 19/0.4 (mm) and 40/0.4 (mm).

On what parts should I glue?

The sides of cabinets, cabinets, tables, as well as the internal shelves of any home and office furniture are trimmed with melamine tape.

• On parts that have contact with the floor, but are not subject to wet cleaning,
• Internal parts (shelves, internal parts drawers),
• Elements that will not be subject to direct physical and mechanical stress.

Required tool:

• Coil with end tape,
• Iron,
• Knife cutter,
• A damp cloth or piece of felt
• Sandpaper coated block,
• Part holder.

Preparation

In order for the melamine end edge to stick efficiently and evenly, you need an iron with a flat and thick sole. The best option There will be a Teflon coated iron. Also, its surface must be clean and smooth.

For comfortable work It’s better to take a sharp knife with a thin handle or find an old knife blade and make a cutter out of it. You can use a spatula.

An ordinary chipboard piece with sandpaper glued to one side (grit size P120) is suitable as a block.

The melamine end edge comes with a pre-applied layer of adhesive. If it suddenly turns out that it does not have an adhesive layer, then it must be applied to the part.

For this operation, we will also need a part holder, which can be made from the remains of chipboard. It looks like this:

Let's start gluing

We unwind the edge tape from the coil (it’s more convenient to unwind from the inside) and apply it to the end of the chipboard, first leaving a margin for trimming.

Its standard width is 21 mm, and the chipboard is 16 or 18, leaving a margin for trimming and rubbing. In order to avoid the need to cut on both sides, it is better to immediately align it on one side, and on the other side it will overlap.

After we have applied it, we begin to heat it right along the end and iron it with an iron. You need to iron the edges of the ends especially carefully.

Short parts can be ironed entirely, and if the part is long, we warm up 40 cm sections one by one. After that, cool the end with a slightly damp cloth.

The temperature of the iron is adjusted depending on the quality of our tape. It should glide quickly, easily and without friction, without scratching the surface or resisting movement.

High-quality heating will be indicated by uniform spreading of the glue under the edge. If it overheats, bubbles will appear and it will deteriorate, therefore, monitor the temperature and do not overexpose the iron in one place.

If you suddenly damage the edge, it will need to be replaced. Using heat with an iron and a knife, remove the old one, clean the end of any remaining glue and start all over again.

The edge will stick well only after it has completely cooled. ONLY after the end has completely cooled can you begin trimming and finishing the edges.

In order to cut off the excess efficiently and evenly, you must first bend the edge with your finger, tap along the edge and rub it several times with a block until you see a white chamfer (this is the paper backing). And you can start cutting off the excess.

Video: how to glue furniture edges to chipboard

Another video from home handyman- pasting furniture edges with your own hands:

Types of end edges for furniture

When making furniture from laminated chipboard the edges of parts without processing have an unsightly appearance. To put them in order, furniture edges and profiles are used. It is more convenient to work with them on special equipment, but you can also achieve good results with your own hands at home.

Types of furniture edges

One of the most popular materials for making furniture is chipboard. Its disadvantage is the unsightly edges that remain when cutting the part. These edges are masked by the furniture edge. They make it out of different materials, accordingly, she has different properties and price.

You can also get this edge yourself

Paper or melamine edges

Most cheap option— edges made of paper with melamine impregnation. The paper is taken of high density, impregnated with melamine to increase strength and glued to papyrus paper. Papyrus can be single-layer (cheaper) or double-layer. To prevent the melamine coating from wearing off, everything is covered with a layer of varnish. To make it more convenient to edge the parts, an adhesive composition is applied to the back side of the melamine furniture edge. When working, you just need to slightly warm up this composition and press it well against the end.

Paper or melamine edge is the cheapest, but also the most short-lived option for finishing the ends of furniture

The thickness of paper edge tapes is small - 0.2 mm and 0.4 mm are the most common. There is no point in making it thicker, and it will be expensive.

This type of edges is distinguished by the fact that it bends very well and does not break when bent. But mechanical strength its very low - the edge quickly wears out. Therefore, if it is used, it is only on those surfaces that are not subject to load. For example, on the back of shelves, tabletops, etc.

Received in Lately Polyvinyl chloride is also widely used in the production of edges for furniture. From painted to specific color mass, a tape of a certain width and thickness is formed. Its front surface can be smooth, monochromatic, or it can be textured - with imitation of wood fibers. The number of colors is large, so it’s easy to choose the right one.

PVC furniture edging is the most popular material, which is used by both home craftsmen and professionals. This is due to the relatively low price and good performance properties:

• High mechanical resistance.
• Withstands impact chemical substances (household chemicals, For example).
• Waterproof material protects the ends of the product from moisture.
• PVC is an elastic material, which allows you to process curved surfaces.
• Works well with simple devices, which allows you to get good results even at home.

Different edge thickness looks different

PVC furniture edging is available in different thicknesses and widths. Thickness - from 0.4 mm to 4 mm, width from 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness is chosen depending on the expected mechanical load or external appearance, and the width is slightly larger (at least 2-3 mm) than the thickness of the workpiece. Eat furniture PVC edge with adhesive applied, yes - without. Both can be glued at home (more on that below).

This type of edge material also has disadvantages: not very wide temperature regime: -5°C to +45°C. For this reason, furniture cannot be left outside in winter, and when pasting with heat, you must be careful so as not to melt the polymer.

Made from ABS plastic

This polymer does not contain heavy metals and is characterized by high strength and durability. The disadvantage can be considered the high price, therefore it is used extremely rarely, although it has excellent properties:

• Resistant to high and low temperatures, therefore, when gluing, you can use glue with any melting point. Small shrinkage when heated - about 0.3%.
• High mechanical stability.

Several options for edge tape made of ABS plastic

This type of edge can be matte, glossy or semi-gloss. There are also options that imitate various types of wood. In general, this material is more convenient to use and more durable to use.

Veneer edge

Veneer is a thin section of wood, colored and shaped into a strip. This furniture edge is used in production for gluing sections of veneered products. Working with this material requires certain skills, and the material is expensive.

Veneer is not the most popular material for edging

Acrylic edge or 3D

Made from transparent acrylic. On back side stripes are applied. The layer of polymer on top gives it volume, which is why it is called a 3D edge. Used in the production of unusual furniture.

Acrylic gives the picture volume

Profiles for processing furniture edges

You can trim the edge of furniture not only with edge tape. There are also furniture profiles that are attached mechanically. They are available in two sections - T-shaped or U-shaped (also called C-shaped).

For T-shaped furniture profiles, a groove is milled in the edge being processed. The profile is hammered into it with a furniture (rubber) mallet. The edges are cut at 45° to make the angle look attractive. It is brought to perfect condition with fine sandpaper. This type of profiles is produced from PVC and aluminum; with the same installation method, they look very different, and the differences are significant.

T-shaped furniture profile for processing furniture edges

In width they are available for laminated chipboards of 16 mm and 18 mm. There are also wide ones, but they are much less common, since they work less with such material.

C- or U-shaped profiles are most often mounted with glue. They coat the edge with it, then put it on plastic profile, press and fix well. These PVC profiles there are soft and hard. Hard ones are harder to bend and it’s difficult to paste them over curved edges. But they have great strength.

Gluing C-shaped furniture profiles does not cause problems

If you still need to “fit” a rigid C-shaped furniture profile onto a bend, it is heated with a hair dryer, then given the desired shape and secured with masking tape until the glue dries.

We glue furniture edges with our own hands

There are two technologies for gluing furniture edge tape. The first is for those that have glue applied to the back. In this case, an iron or construction hair dryer. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal glue that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft rag so that you can press the edge well against the cut.

It’s possible to get such an edge at home

A little about what thickness of edge to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, do not need to be glued at all, but basically they try to treat them so that less moisture is absorbed into the chipboard, and also to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. Melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. The edges of the drawers (not the fronts) are also processed.

It is better to use 2 mm PVC on the front ends of the facade and drawers, and 1 mm PVC on the visible sections of the shelves. The color is chosen either to match the main surface or “in contrast”.

How to glue edging yourself with glue

The adhesive composition is applied to the melamine edge; it can be applied to PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones - they are easier to process, any melamine is easy to glue.

We take an iron and a fluoroplastic nozzle on it. If there is no nozzle, thick cotton fabric will do - so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A hair dryer is also suitable for this purpose. We set the iron to about “two”, while it is heating up we cut off a piece of tape. The length is a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.

Place the edge tape on the part

We apply the edge to the part, level it, smooth it out. There should be small pieces hanging off both sides. We take an iron and, using a nozzle or a rag, iron the edge, heating it until the glue melts. It is necessary to heat evenly over the entire surface. After the entire edge is glued, let it cool. Then we start processing the edges.

The edge can be cut with a knife, both with the sharp and blunt sides. Some people use regular metal ruler, some people find it more convenient to use a stainless steel spatula.

So, take the tool you have chosen and cut off the hanging edges of the edge. They are cut close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the part. Melamine and thin plastic cuts well with a knife. If the PVC edge is thicker - 0.5-0.6 mm or more, difficulties may arise. Such edges can be processed manual router, if he is. This guarantees good results in a short time. The processing will take longer if you use sandpaper, but the result may not be worse.

You can even use a spatula with a hard blade

One important point: when gluing thin edges, the cut of the part should be smooth, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, which is why all defects are visible. Therefore, first go over the cuts with sandpaper, then thoroughly remove dust and degrease. Only after this can you glue.

Edging with PVC tape (no glue on the back side)

With this method of gluing PVC edges yourself, you need universal glue and a piece of felt or rag. We read the instructions for the glue and carry out all the steps as recommended. For example, for Moment glue, you need to apply the composition to the surface and distribute it, wait 15 minutes, and firmly press the surfaces to be glued.

Apply glue and wait - no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use wooden block wrapped in felt. Instead of a block, you can take a construction float and also attach felt to its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up thick fabric in several layers and press the tape to the surface.

Press firmly, leaning with all your weight

The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressed with all its weight, pressing it to the surface of the chipboard. The movements are stroking. This is how they iron the entire edge, achieving a very tight fit. The part is left in this form for some time - so that the glue “seizes.” Then you can start processing the edges.

Hello, tell me, is a fluoroplastic sole the same as a Teflon sole? Thank you.

Not the same, but Teflon will work too..

Teflon and fluoroplastic are the same material.

Thank you. Are those characteristics the same? Or does the heating time need to be shorter/longer?

The heating time generally depends on the thickness of the pad. Teflon is an aluminum base coated with fluoroplastic... In general, the modes are selected “on the spot”, since the irons are also different. Try gluing it on the scraps a couple of times...

OK thank you very much!

Oh, I forgot one more thing, in the store they told me that edgebands with glue for the machine are sold and this type cannot be glued at home, are there any varieties? Or is this exactly what you glue on the video? Thank you.

Why can't this be done?

where in Moscow you can buy PVC edges with applied glue?

Source: http://stroychik.ru/mebel/vidy-torcevyh-kromok

How to properly trim the edge of chipboard

Gluing the melamine edge

Melamine edging is a traditional edging material used in the manufacture of cabinet furniture from laminated chipboard. Despite the fact that today there are more wear-resistant edge materials, for example, based on PVC or ABS, melamine edge is one of the first places in terms of applicability. There are two main reasons for this: low price and simplicity of edging technology. We will show you how, using simple and accessible tools, you can qualitatively edge a part made of chipboard.

Edging tools:

1. Iron. Any will do, but preferably small sizes, without steam holes and with a thick sole. It is important that the soleplate of the iron is clean and free of deep scratches.
2. Knife. You can work with an ordinary stationery (construction) knife, which will be discussed below. A shoe knife and a plane knife will also work. There are special ready-made devices for quick edge cutting, for example from Virutex.
3. A block of sandpaper. You can buy a ready-made one or make it yourself by gluing a piece of sandpaper onto a workpiece of suitable size (it’s convenient when the block has sandpaper of different grain sizes on different sides). Recommended grain size is 150 units.

Edge technology.

It should be said that the quality of edging largely depends on how well the laminated chipboard is cut. The surface of the end of the part should be smooth, without a visible step from the scoring (sawing) disk of the format-cutting machine, there should be no obvious chips of the laminate and “lifting” of the laminate when a chip has just begun to form. High-quality and fast cutting of laminated chipboards is performed only on special equipment. The edge must be used with pre-applied adhesive. The edge is sold in rolls of 200 rm, but you can almost always buy it in lengths of 1 rm. A typical melamine edge is 19 mm wide and 0.3-0.4 mm thick (excluding adhesive thickness).

The process of edge processing of one end of a part consists of the following steps:

1. The part is installed vertically in an improvised holding device so that the processed end is on top.
2. An edge segment is measured 2-4 cm longer than the length of the processed side of the part.
3. The edge is placed exactly in the center on the end of the part, with equal releases along the edges.
4. Holding the position of the edge on the part with one hand, the edge is smoothed with a hot iron (the temperature of the iron is selected experimentally; if too high temperature, the edge begins to bubble; if low, it sticks poorly or takes a long time). Press the iron with moderate force. Excessive pressure may cause the edge to move, but not enough pressure will cause the glue to fail. Indirect confirmation of good heating of the edge can be slightly squeezed out glue from under the edge. Particular attention should be paid to the ends of the edge and where it contacts the laminated surfaces of the part.
5. After warming up the edge, it needs to be cooled. For this operation a small one will do cloth Smooth the edge with a cloth, pressing lightly so that when it cools, the edge does not come off. After the edge has cooled to approximately 50°C (wait until the edge has room temperature there is no point), you can start cutting off the excess.
6. First, remove excess from the ends. To do this, the free ends of the edge are carefully bent down, the edge is broken, the break point is lightly sanded using an emery block and the excess is simply torn off. All that remains is to work a little more with the sanding block so that the edge is flush with the mating side (does not protrude or catch).
7. To cut off excess edge length, you need to set the knife blade at approximately 45° (see photo) and run the knife along the end of the part. The angle of inclination (adjacent) relative to the plane of the part is determined experimentally (depending on the knife). This operation requires skill and practice. It is important not to damage the laminate (do not cause chips). After cutting off all the overhangs, you need to lightly process the edges of the end of the part with a block of sandpaper, and the edging can be considered complete. Excess glue can be easily removed with a cloth soaked in acetone or gasoline. If a local gap is noticed, the problem area should be heated with an iron and pressed again with a cloth. Also, by reheating, the edge can be completely removed from the part.

It is very rarely possible to cover the entire required surface with one sheet of drywall, and then joints appear that need to be sealed.

If you take a whole sheet of drywall, then it already has ready-made chamfers and you don’t need to do anything additional. During the installation process, it becomes necessary to cut the sheets and then it becomes necessary to chamfer them.

What is a chamfer and why is it needed?

Many home craftsmen neglect such a stage of work as cutting the ends of gypsum boards, as they consider it unnecessary and unimportant. Experts recommend that you always trim the edge, and why you need to do this, we’ll try to figure it out in this article.

First, let's figure out what a chamfer is. If you look in the dictionary, a chamfer is an edge of drywall or any other material that is cut at an angle of 45-60 degrees.

Appearance of chamfer

If a bevel is made on a sheet of drywall, the seam becomes wider, and this allows it to be filled well with putty, this will prevent cracks from appearing later.

If you do not chamfer, then a small gap will remain between the straight ends of the drywall sheets, it will be difficult for the primer to get there, and during the process of sealing it, little putty will get into the gap, which will lead to the fact that after some time a crack may appear in this place.

It becomes clear that it is necessary to trim the edge of the drywall. If there is no chamfer on the edge of the drywall, even the presence of sickle tape on the seam does not guarantee that a crack will not appear in this place.

In order to avoid the appearance of cracks in the future, it is enough for the chamfer to be 8-10 mm, so it will be well filled with primer and putty, and the joint will be strong and reliable.

How to make a chamfer?

To perform the above work you will need the following list of tools:

• ruler;
• pencil;
• stationery knife.

The drywall must be placed on a flat surface; it must be securely fixed so that it does not move during the work.

At the next stage, use a pencil and a ruler to mark a line on the drywall, approximately 8-10 mm from its edge.

Now, using a knife, which is positioned at an angle to the sheet, we begin to cut off the edge of the sheet with a smooth movement.

This should be done no more than 2/3 of the sheet thickness; the work is done with a sharp knife and a smooth movement. Do not make jerking or saw-tooth movements, as this will result in an uneven edge.

If you do everything smoothly, then during work the chips will curl and you will get a smooth, inclined surface.

After you make the edge, you need to trim it, this can be done using fine sandpaper or using a special plane for drywall.

The same sequence of work will be carried out with the remaining faces of the gypsum board on which it is necessary to make an edge.

After you have made the edges and installed the plasterboard sheets, you need to properly seal all the joints. Before starting work, you must thoroughly clean the walls, seams from dust and debris, and check the tightness of the installation of the sheets.

To seal the seams you will need spatulas with a width of 80 and 250 mm, a container for putty, a grater or a fine sandpaper and a brush for applying primer.

To seal seams, it is necessary to use a special reinforcing tape called serpyanka.

First, the seam is filled with the prepared mixture, for which a spatula is used, the seam is completely filled and allowed to dry a little.

At the next stage, reinforcing tape is applied and again, using a spatula, it is pressed into the putty. Now all that remains is to apply another layer on top of the tape, level it and wait for everything to dry.

In order for the putty to adhere more firmly to the joint, it is recommended to soak it with a primer before doing this, after which it must be allowed to dry completely and only then can you continue to carry out further work.

If you don’t have serpyanka, you can use regular fiberglass, but cut off a strip before starting work the right size and knead it well with your hands so that it becomes soft.

You cannot immediately stick the tape onto the joint and then fill it with putty. First you need to fill the joint with putty, which takes approximately 60%, then lay down the tape and apply the rest of the putty.

Below is a table of the cost of tools and materials needed to work with drywall.

If you get the edges right on plasterboard sheets and seal the seams efficiently, you don’t have to worry about cracks appearing in these places.

Everyone knows a fact that often occurs when edgebanding is the melting of PVC edges, especially for edges up to 1 mm thick.

There is a problem of wave-like formation on edges with a thickness of 2 mm after scraping, peeling of the edge from the part, lumpy edges of 0.4 mm, whitishness of the edges and many other problems.

It is necessary to understand what the reason is in each specific case more deeply than to attribute everything to the quality of the edges.

So first we should consider edge banding process, namely the reasons for the appearance of marriage at this stage in detail, we're talking about about using exclusively PVC edges.

The process consists of several stages:

Gluing

Trimming

Milling overhangs

Cycling

Polishing

Gluing PVC edges.

Regardless of the type of machine, edge gluing is done using melt glue.

The likelihood of marriage occurring at this stage is very high. In order to avoid problems, you must:

Carry out the most suitable settings by trial and experiment

Select a suitable hot melt adhesive, taking into account the type of machine and operating temperature

Take into account the parameters of laminated chipboard (humidity, friability)

The edge melts when glued.

If you are using a feed speed of 2 - 5 m/min, you should apply an edge that is more heat-resistant, and it must be taken into account that the permissible temperatures declared by edge suppliers are reduced if the adhesive is applied directly to the tape and not to the part. We recommend changing the operating temperature of the glue bath.

After gluing the 0.4 mm edges, surface roughness appears:

A very common problem, which is also not always related to the quality of the edges. As a rule, it consists in the incorrect selection of hot melt glue.

The fact is that the density of chipboard greatly affects the gluing process, and depending on this parameter, you need to choose the right hot melt adhesive. Lumpiness on the surface appears at a low density of chipboard with the simultaneous use of unfilled melts.

The problem can be corrected by using a filled adhesive with increased consumption. In this case, not only the bumpiness will disappear, but the bonding strength of the surfaces will also increase.

When gluing, an uneven surface is formed due to the indentation of the chipboard structure:

This problem is easily solved. Simply move out the additional pressure rollers.

The seam between the edge and the end of the part is too noticeable.

When gluing PVC edges with a thickness of 1 mm, 1.8 mm, 2 mm or more, it is recommended to use an unfilled hot melt adhesive, then the seam will be as thin as possible and almost invisible, in addition, it is necessary to carefully select the tone of the glue to visually merge the adhesive seam of the edge and the chipboard.

The edge is melted on curved parts.

This problem is also worth looking at from the point of view of the type of equipment used and the type of adhesive.

So, for example, for machines manual type, when the part moves around a stationary adhesive unit, it is recommended to use melts with a wide temperature range.

For equipment with automatic feeding, when the workpiece moves around the gluing unit at a constant speed of 10 - 30 m/min, adhesives with a small temperature range can be used. Application polyurethane adhesives It is recommended that the adhesive unit be manually moved around the product and the adhesive is applied directly to the edge tape.

Overhang milling, scraping.

After removing the overhangs, a wavy end remains on the edge.

This problem occurs when the tool (cutter knives) is dull or the rotation speed is insufficient for uniform removal.

Increase the cutter speed and reduce the edge feed speed. The same thing can happen when scraping: a “wave” on the edge is formed if the scraper (knife) is not sharp enough.

There are chips on the edges of the edge.

Chips on a PVC edge after milling do not mean that the edge material is very hard or the chalk content is very high.

They may indicate that the rotation speed of the cutter is set incorrectly and the knives need to be adjusted or sharpened. Perhaps the problem is both.

Polishing.

In order to ensure that the edge is well polished and all remaining chips, glue, etc. are removed, we recommend polishing along the radius with a cloth polishing wheel and applying a release liquid to the surface of the chipboard.

Conclusion:

Based on the above, we recommend that when changing suppliers, you do not immediately attribute poor edgebanding to .

In order to make sure that the edge is not suitable, you need to check its use on several modes/machines, check whether the temperature and feed speed are set correctly, take into account the composition of the glue and much more.

Of course, the quality of the edges primarily influences the cladding process. Based on many years of experience in the supply of edge strips, we recommend that when choosing materials you base your choice not only on cost, but also on other characteristics.

So, in order not to spoil the product/part at the edge banding stage, you must:

Choose a reliable partner for the supply of edges

Pay attention to how long the importer has been working on the market

How many suppliers/factories does the importer have (to avoid quality differences from batch to batch).

We offer to solve your problems at the edgebanding stage.

You can, without reconfiguring the equipment, use the “LUX” edge, and save without loss of quality by using the “STANDARD” PVC edge. ().

We are happy to solve any problems that arise, and in case of a color change in the warehouse program/in production, we will accept a full refund.

We will be glad to become for you not just a supplier of edge materials, but a reliable partner who strives to help develop your business.

Here we describe the process of gluing the ends of laminated chipboard with a regular paper edge using a regular iron.

For gluing, a regular Soviet-made iron with a temperature regulator is most suitable.

In most cases and for most edges, the optimal temperature regime is set just short of the third division.

On short parts, up to 40 cm long, the entire length at once.

In long sections of 40-45 cm.

An indicator of a well-heated edge is the edge sagging under the iron, because the adhesive layer melts.

An insufficiently heated edge will not stick well to the end and subsequently, if not immediately, will begin to peel off.

However, overheating the edge is also not desirable. because the glue simply burns out and the edge will not stick.

Now we move on to cutting off the excess edge. First we cut at the ends.

Then along the plane.

We hold the knife as shown in the photo. It is advisable to direct the cutting movements towards the part, and not outwards. Because not all edges are of the same level of moisture and quality, therefore, on drier edges, when moving the knife “outward,” unsightly scuffs of the face layer may form, which will be difficult to remove even with subsequent sanding.

You can also remove the previously glued edge using an iron.

1. heat a section of the edge, pry it up and separate it from the part....