Various DIY building blocks. DIY building blocks video How to make wall blocks at home

You can significantly reduce the financial costs of housing construction if you make aerated concrete with your own hands at home. Aerated concrete products are used very often in construction.

It is easy to build a variety of buildings from them with great savings in mortar.

What is aerated concrete

Aerated concrete building blocks can be different sizes and shapes. But their composition is almost always the same. Aerated concrete blocks You can make it yourself from:

  • high quality cement;
  • lime;
  • quartz sand;
  • gypsum;
  • aluminum powder;
  • water.

The production technology of this material is quite simple. You can produce aerated concrete in the yard of your home or directly at the construction site. Ready-made blocks are parallelepipeds made of a porous concrete mass containing many small air pores. They measure about 3 mm. Pores are formed by adding aluminum paste or powder to the solution. Sometimes, in addition to the listed components, some other substances are added to the composition in very small quantities. They are needed to change some parameters of the building material.

According to the production method, aerated concrete can be made using autoclave and non-autoclave methods. The first method is not suitable for home use. It is necessary for him expensive equipment. The non-autoclave method is simpler; it allows you to set up the production of aerated concrete yourself at home. During production, a reaction of water with aluminum powder is used, as a result of which a huge amount of carbon dioxide is released, which forms pores inside the blocks. The mass hardens after some time. This happens in natural conditions. The body of the block receives many pores from 1 to 3 mm in diameter.

Mini-plant for the production of non-autoclaved aerated concrete

The porous structure is the main advantage of the gas block. Pores make the material light and give it high thermal insulation properties. The density for aerated concrete is kept at the level of 300-1200 kg/m³. In order for the pores to hold firmly in concrete, it must be placed in a strong form, which determines the size of the future block. The mass hardens in 2 hours. After this, the blocks can be removed from the mold and placed on racks to completely harden. The final strength is formed only on the 28th day of natural drying of the blocks.

Making aerated concrete with your own hands

Producing aerated concrete at home requires some tools. You need to prepare:

  • grinder with disc;
  • wood hacksaw;
  • electric drill;
  • plane;
  • hacksaw for working on metal;
  • sharp knife;
  • plumber's hammer;
  • shovel for mortar;
  • mixer for mixing the mixture;
  • ruler;
  • construction hair dryer;
  • Master OK,
  • steel string for cutting blocks;
  • putty knife;
  • scales;
  • chisel and chisel;
  • measuring bucket

Using a measuring bucket and scales, the necessary components for the solution are measured. The production of gas blocks is carried out from the following components:

  • Portland cement grade M400-M500 - 50-70%;
  • sieved quartz sand— from 20 to 40%;
  • lime as a plasticizer - 1-5%;
  • aluminum powder or paste - 0.04-0.09%;
  • water - 0.25-0.8%.

Collapsible metal form Pouring lightweight concrete Removing excess concrete mortar Blocks after stripping

The mixture is thoroughly mixed and laid out in forms, which come in different shapes. This can be a pretty durable box. Its height is equal to the height of the blocks. The total volume is 4-9 gas blocks. The molds can be made of wood or metal. It is advisable to make the structure collapsible. A more complex option is a box with cells, which can be made of wood 30-40 mm thick, or metal 4-6 mm thick. Internal partitions can be made of plywood. Its thickness should be 12-15 mm. Before pouring the solution, the surfaces from the inside must be lubricated with technical oil and the entire structure must be heated with a hairdryer to 40˚. The mixture is poured to the level of half the height of the box. The remaining space will be filled as the composition expands and pores form.

The gas release reaction lasts 6-8 minutes. The solution first rises, then shrinks slightly. After shrinkage you can top part cut with the prepared string, remove the blocks from the mold. Cooling of the blocks should occur under natural conditions. The use of fans is not recommended. It is recommended to install the mold on a flat horizontal surface. It is better to prepare several boxes at once in order to mix a significant amount of solution. The work site must be sheltered from wind and precipitation. The block sizes can be chosen at your own discretion.

Conclusion on the topic

How to make aerated blocks at home? Is this option possible? What are they made of? After all, you need special equipment and equipment to make aerated concrete at home. You can build the walls of houses at much lower cost if you make aerated blocks yourself. Special equipment require only autoclave building materials. This is how concrete materials are made in production. At home, you can prepare blocks only using a non-autoclave method. To do this, you need high-quality Portland cement, sand with minimal admixtures of clay, lime, water, aluminum powder and some other substances to change the characteristics. finished product.

The mixture is mixed well and poured into molds, which you can also make yourself. After 2 hours, the tops of the blocks are cut off with a metal string, the blocks themselves are removed and laid out for drying. Final drying lasts 4 weeks. By this time the blocks acquire real strength. To produce aerated concrete per 1 m³ of blocks, 90 kg of cement, 300 liters of water, 0.5 kg of aluminum powder, 35 kg of lime and 375 kg of sand are required. This is an approximate composition.

Aerated concrete blocks are a material for building walls. He has high quality and strength. Widely used in low-rise construction. To build your own house, it is quite possible to make blocks with your own hands.

Cinder block is an artificial wall stone made from a mixture of slag and cement, intended for the construction of walls of one-story buildings. It is also used as additional insulation in the construction of frame houses. The production of this material is possible at home on your own. It is not recommended to make just the foundation panels yourself. The requirements for the reliability of the building's foundation are very high, so it is better not to save money and buy ready-made elements.

There are the following types:

  • solid - have the greatest strength, intended for construction load-bearing walls and partitions, cladding;
  • hollow with a degree of voidness of 40% - they have higher heat and sound insulating properties due to the presence of cavities inside, they are cheaper, but are inferior in strength due to the thinness of the walls;
  • hollow with a degree of voidness from 25 to 30% - they have optimal proportions for thermal conductivity and strength, the most popular.

Depending on the thickness, the blocks are:

  • wall - standard size 390 x 190 x 188 mm;
  • partition - 390 x 90 x 188 mm.

When manufacturing independently, the dimensions can be arbitrary, required condition- stability of dimensions.

Specifications

  • Cinder blocks have a relatively low thermal conductivity coefficient - from 0.20 to 0.65 W/m3 (better than brick). Due to this, they are often used not only as a structural material, but also as insulation.
  • Density - from 750 to 1450 kg/m3. It differs from all other types in its high strength - grades from M35 to M125. This parameter must be taken into account when designing communications, as it is difficult to cut.
  • Frost resistance is up to 50 freeze-thaw cycles without visible damage.

Advantages:

  • low price;
  • availability and variety of materials for manufacturing, the ability to obtain products with the required set of parameters suitable for specific purposes;
  • environmental benefits - due to the use of waste from the metallurgical industry (slag), as well as broken bricks and concrete remaining during the demolition of old buildings, the number of construction waste dumps is reduced;
  • fire resistance;
  • is not a favorable environment for the development of fungi and mold, and is not susceptible to damage by rodents;
  • ease of wall installation.

Flaws:

  • Very high degree hygroscopicity - strongly absorbs moisture from the air, reliable lining on both sides is required;
  • the presence of substances hazardous to health (sulfur) - to completely weather them, the blocks are kept in the open air for at least a year; upon purchase, it is necessary to check the environmental safety certificate;
  • out of necessity high-quality waterproofing, cladding, the total cost of the building is slightly lower than when using more expensive building materials; significant savings are obtained only when made with your own hands.

Utility, utility, industrial premises, and garages are often built from slag concrete.

About slag for block production

This is a silicate waste from metal processing; it is sifted through a sieve. Slag obtained by burning various types of solid fuel (coal, firewood) contains radioactive components, therefore it is not used for the construction of residential premises.

Types of slag:

  • granulated (granular slag);
  • non-granular.

For the production of building blocks, the largest fraction of granular waste is selected, smaller (non-granular) waste is used for the production of asphalt and paving slabs. Price for 1 ton of material - from 100 rubles. There are non-ferrous and ferrous metallurgy wastes (blast furnace), the second option is preferable, since those obtained from the processing of non-ferrous metals are more expensive.

Composition of the mixture for obtaining blocks

Cement of a grade not lower than M400 is selected as a binder. The filler either consists entirely of slag, or is mixed - crushed stone (permissibly secondary), ordinary or expanded clay sand, fine expanded clay, and crushed brick are added in a small proportion. Proportions for cinder blocks: 8-9 parts of filler, 1.5-2 parts of binder. If the cement is M500, then it can be taken approximately 15% less than M400.

Slag usually makes up at least 65% of the total aggregate volume. For example, out of 9 parts, at least 6 are made up of it, the rest is supplemented with sand and crushed stone. But it is theoretically possible to use brick or concrete waste and screenings for production with your own hands. Regardless of the type of material, it is customary to conventionally call such products slag concrete. Classic proportions: 2 parts sand, 2 parts crushed stone, 7 parts slag, 2 parts Portland cement M400.

Water is added in a ratio of approximately 0.5 parts. The finished mixture is semi-dry. To check the quality, a handful is thrown onto hard surface. If the lump has crumbled, but when compressed it easily regains its previous shape, then the composition is suitable for use.

To obtain a colored block, add colored chalk or crushed brick chips. To increase strength, professional plasticizers are introduced. Sometimes gypsum, sawdust, and ash are added as a partial replacement for slag.

It is better to mix the components in a concrete mixer or mixer, but such equipment is expensive. Small quantities are mixed by hand, a labor-intensive process.

Cinder block production technology

They are made in two ways:

  • manually - the quality of the finished products is low, uneven, but generally meets the requirements of the standards;
  • vibration casting, using a vibrating table or vibrating machine - they are more durable.

They are produced in large volumes using the vibration pressing method. The equipment for this method is expensive, so it is not suitable for home production. The room should be well ventilated, with a flat, hard floor. This is a necessary condition for drying and storage.

Regardless of the chosen method, the prepared mixture is first placed in special rectangular frames. They are made of plastic wooden boards or metal sheets, always collapsible and without a bottom - for easy removal. For the same purpose, before pouring, the walls are lubricated with grease or soapy water. It is more convenient to use formwork made of several cells (usually from 4 to 6). When making wood, choose boards with an absolutely smooth surface, otherwise knots and irregularities will cling when stripping.

Hollow formers - cylindrical or rectangular, made of metal or wood - are additionally attached to the bottom of the mold for hollow blocks. Instead of them you can put glass bottles, after the mixture has hardened, they are removed.

2. Do-it-yourself machine.

A simple ready-made machine for cinder blocks costs from 6,500 rubles. But if you wish and have a set of necessary tools and parts, it is not difficult to make it at home yourself.

Procedure:

  • From four steel sheets 3-4 mm thick, weld a rectangular shape without a bottom with internal size 390x190x190 mm.
  • Weld a steel strip along the perimeter of the top of the box.
  • TO lower parts Weld guides on the short sides for easy removal and movement of the machine.
  • Cut three pieces of equal length from a round metal pipe with a diameter of about 6 cm.
  • Place the sections in a vertical position in a row along one line at a distance of approximately 4 cm from each other and connect them by welding or gluing jumpers between them. Also attach jumpers to the outer sides of the outer pipes for connection to the walls. Exact dimensions of all parts depend on the diameter of the void formers and the length of the box.
  • Close the pipes from above with plugs. Insert the pipe structure inside the mold and attach.
  • Install height limiters on the inner walls of the box.
  • Attach handles to the short sides.
  • Cut a clamping cover from the fifth steel sheet. During the production of blocks, it is put on the void formers so that they protrude. Therefore, the lid must have slots for pipes and jumpers between them, 1-2 mm larger in size.
  • Weld two U-shaped handles on top of the resulting part. They are installed vertically along the short sides of the lid.
  • Attach the platform motor-vibrator to one of the long sides of the mold with bolts or welded studs. Since its cost is relatively high and it is difficult to purchase, it is possible to use a two-shaft motor from a washing machine instead. Balancers are attached to a homemade engine.

3. Making cinder concrete blocks by hand.

  • Spread plastic wrap on a flat surface or floor. Place the greased molds on it.
  • Prepare the mixture following the recommended proportions.
  • Distribute it among the forms. For hollow blocks, insert bottles (if there are no void formers).
  • Level the surface and remove excess mortar.
  • After 5 hours, remove the bottles.
  • After 24 hours, remove the blocks.
  • Lay out on a flat horizontal plane.
  • After a week, fold in several rows and leave to dry for another 21 days. During the drying process, they are covered with film. Optimal conditions- air temperature from +20 to +25°C, no direct sunlight.

If there is a vibrating table, the forms are placed on its surface. The vibration is turned on for about a minute. Exact time It is better to determine experimentally by making test bricks. Exceeding the exposure time to vibration leads to deterioration in quality. Then the structures with the compacted mixture are removed from the table and treated in the same way as with hand made(see paragraphs 5-8 of the instructions).

4. Making cinder blocks with your own hands at home using a vibrating machine.

Manufacturing scheme using a simple machine:

  • Lay out pieces of plywood or OSB measuring 500x300 mm on the floor. They will serve as supports for the blocks.
  • Place the machine on the first sheet of plywood.
  • Prepare the composition, observing the recommended proportions.
  • Fill in the form.
  • Turn on the engine for 20-30 s (to more accurately determine the optimal time for exposure of the vibrator to cinder concrete, it is recommended to make test bricks and evaluate their strength and uniformity of the finished material).
  • Turn off the vibration - the mixture settles a few centimeters, fill the box to the top again. Turn on the motor and press the lid. It should rest against the height limiters on the inner walls.
  • After turning off the vibration, remove the machine from the block and move it to the next substrate.
  • Repeat all steps on each prepared sheet of plywood.

Readiness times and drying conditions are the same as for manual production.

The modern building materials market offers a wide range of wall blocks. But not everyone knows that it is quite possible to reduce the cost of building a private house, cottage, garage or utility room. Instead of buying bricks or cinder blocks, it’s enough to start making them yourself. To do this, you need to use a machine for producing blocks, and if the budget does not allow, you need to make a vibropressing machine yourself.

Inexpensive factory models of vibrating machines are not characterized by high productivity, but for private use this is not required. True, buy a machine for construction small house, where about a thousand standard-sized blocks will be required, will not be entirely profitable. Therefore, as an option, you can consider renting equipment for a certain period. This will be enough to procure building materials for future use.

Factory machine for making building blocks with your own hands

Types of building blocks

Brick is still the main material in the construction of high-rise buildings, but for low-rise construction it is cheaper to use other building materials. If you exclude wood, which is now expensive, the choice will still be varied. Modern wall materials are made from:

  • foam concrete;
  • slag concrete;
  • aerated concrete;
  • expanded clay concrete.

Block characteristics comparison table

As a filler for cinder blocks, a variety of and sometimes exotic materials are used, which are industrial waste: screenings, broken glass and bricks, sawdust, wood chips.

Let's first consider how expanded clay blocks and cinder blocks are made independently, as the most budget-friendly among all the above building materials.

DIY expanded clay blocks

If there are no problems with expanded clay in your region, you can consider yourself lucky: expanded clay concrete, despite its cheapness, is rarely found on sale, but this building material is characterized by a whole range of positive properties. To make expanded clay blocks you will need:

  • expanded clay itself;
  • cement;
  • sand;
  • water.

The main material for creating the mixture will be fine expanded clay

When mixing the solution, it is important to adhere to a certain sequence: expanded clay is added to the water, then cement, and finally sand. The proportions of the solution are as follows: for nine liters of water, use 54 kg of expanded clay, 9 kg of cement and 27 kg of sand. The result will be a mixture weighing about 100 kilograms, with the yield of finished blocks in the amount of 9-10 pieces.

Manufacturing technology of expanded clay concrete blocks

If it is not possible to use a specialized machine (such equipment is not cheap), expanded clay concrete can be produced on a non-industrial scale using special matrices. You will also need an appropriate container for the solution, a flat area and formwork made of wood or metal in the shape of the letter “E”.

A concrete mixer, a standard piece of equipment in a builder’s arsenal, will help reduce time losses and reduce labor costs. If there is a shortage of time, the problem can be solved by using a vibrating machine; a simple model of such a machine can be made independently.

To do this, it is enough to attach a low-power but high-speed electric motor to the mold, which is converted into a full-fledged vibrator using an eccentric. The vibrations of the matrix force the mixture to be distributed in the mold as densely and evenly as possible, improving the strength characteristics of the finished products. Factory-made brick making machines have maximum productivity: professional machines are equipped with additional equipment, allowing you to automate the process, eliminating heavy manual labor. But such vibropressing machines also cost a lot.

Do-it-yourself cinder block production

Expanded clay is beautiful and inexpensive material for making building blocks, but even more in an economical way construction is the use of cinder blocks. Having comparable sound and heat insulation characteristics, slag concrete is made from materials whose cost is an order of magnitude lower.

The industry is not interested in producing cinder block building materials - it is more economically profitable to produce expensive analogues (building blocks made of foam concrete, aerated concrete, brick). But special equipment for forming cinder concrete blocks is on sale, and quite a lot. The range of prices for such vibrating machines is enormous: from simple models with a static matrix, which can easily be assembled in a garage from scrap materials, to fully automated lines.

Cinder block: manufacturing technology

A modern cinder block has dimensions of 188x190x390 mm, a solid building material is characterized by sufficient strength for arranging foundations and multi-story construction, hollow ones are used in all other cases. The voids can be round, rectangular or square, the number varies from one to 8-10 voids, the voidness rate ranges from 25-50%. Almost equal in strength to monolithic products, hollow cinder blocks allow you to save expensive cement by almost half.

For quick and high-quality mixing of the mixture, it is advisable to use a construction concrete mixer

The following can be used as filler in production:

  • coal slag;
  • fine gravel;
  • crushed stone screening;
  • sand;
  • brick waste;
  • broken glass;
  • ash;
  • perlite;
  • gypsum;
  • sawdust;
  • wood chips.

When mixing the solution, the proportions will depend on the composition of the filler. The main condition is that the finished solution does not spread. Cement in the production of slag concrete is used at a grade no lower than M400; to improve the performance properties of the finished product, plasticizers can be added to the solution.

Portable machine for making cinder blocks with your own hands

A guideline for self-production of a solution for cinder blocks can be the factory recipe: for seven parts of blast furnace slag - two parts of coarse sand, one and a half parts of cement and up to three parts of water. The way to check that the consistency of the solution meets the requirements is simple: throw a handful on the ground, it should crumble. If you collect the solution and squeeze it in your fist, it should return to the shape of a ball.

It is not necessary to focus on standard dimensions: making blocks with your own hands is an individual process, and many prefer to set up production using multiple mold sizes (for example, 200x200x400 mm), which simplifies interfacing with other structural elements of buildings under construction.

Preparation of cinder blocks without special equipment

If you have free time and are unable to make a simple vibrating machine for the production of slag concrete, it is advisable to use a mold with boards or boards as the walls and bottom. sheet metal. It is preferable to use one matrix for the manufacture of several blocks of slag concrete, at least in order to save materials. To form voids in the form for pouring the solution, you can use bottles, scraps metal pipes, wooden cylinders or bars.

Manual machine for making cinder blocks and expanded clay blocks at home

The procedure itself is simple: prepare the solution, pour cinder concrete into the molds, level it, removing excess. After a day, the blocks can be carefully removed and laid out to dry on a horizontal surface. To protect the finished material from cracking and getting wet during drying, cover the stacks with cinder concrete. plastic film.

Use homemade cinder blocks possible a month after their manufacture. This point should be taken into account and the production of building materials should be started in advance.

Making a vibratory pressing machine

Adding a slag concrete vibrator to the above-described production scheme provides the opportunity to significantly improve the quality of products and at the same time speed up the process.

It is not difficult to assemble such a machine; if you follow all the recommendations, this equipment will work no worse than its factory counterparts. The simplest option Vibration pressing machine involves the use of a homemade matrix, a vibrator and a hand press. To reduce physical exertion, the manual press can be improved by using a lever system.

Drawing homemade machine with a vibration motor for the production of cinder blocks and expanded clay blocks

A set of tools and materials necessary for the manufacture of a vibration machine with a metal mold:

  • welding machine;
  • Bulgarian,
  • a set of keys;
  • vice;
  • sheet metal with a thickness of at least 3 mm;
  • pipes for creating voids with a diameter of 8-10 mm;
  • channels, strips of metal;
  • low-power electric motor (up to 1 kW);
  • connecting elements (bolts, nuts, cotter pins).

The main element of the machine for making blocks with your own hands is a matrix, the dimensions and shape of which are selected based on production needs.

The sequence of actions when making a homemade vibrating machine:

  • Using a grinder, we cut out the walls of the matrix from sheet material. If the mold is intended for the manufacture of several block products, we provide for the presence of the corresponding number of partitions in the matrix.
  • We cut off the required number of blanks from the pipe (at the rate of 3 pieces per brick), the height of which should be 3-5 mm less than the height of the matrix. The taper of the pipes is achieved using the following technique: cut the pipe in half and crimp the workpiece in a vice (for thick-walled pipes you can use a lathe).

Drawing for the manufacture of a machine with lightweight extrusion of building blocks

  • Each pipe section is welded tightly on both sides.
  • We weld the plates to the pipes, connecting them together. For fastening to walls, it is better to provide a removable connection, which will allow, if necessary, to remove the limiters for the production of monolithic cinder blocks.
  • Using welding, we attach bolts for attaching the electric motor to the long outer wall.
  • We weld a metal apron on top of the form.
  • We make a press in the form of a thick-walled plate, provide for the presence of holes with a diameter slightly larger than smaller diameter limiter pipes (so that the press enters the matrix at a distance of no more than 50 mm).
  • We weld the handles to the press.
  • We install the motor. We weld an eccentric onto the electric motor shaft (ordinary bolts are suitable as material for the eccentric; they are welded parallel to the shaft and leave room for screwing on the nuts, which will allow you to adjust the amplitude of vibrations).
  • We thoroughly clean the device, polish the surfaces, and paint the homemade unit for the blocks.

Making cinder blocks

It is advisable to prepare the solution using a concrete mixer: the presence of coarse fillers in the solution makes it difficult to obtain a high-quality mixture manually. Before pouring cinder concrete into the matrix, the surfaces of the walls must be lubricated machine oil or similar product. This will prevent the solution from sticking to the walls of the matrix.

Pour the mixture into the mold, apply pressure with a press and at the same time turn on the vibrator. After 10-20 seconds, the solution will thicken and shrink, so add the mixture to the matrix and repeat the procedure, without turning off the vibrator until the pressure plate drops to the level of the limiters.

Depending on weather conditions, cinder blocks can be removed from the mold either the next day or three days later. Next, the material is laid out to dry naturally for a month.

As you can see, the main difficulty in the production of wall materials is to make a machine for cinder blocks with your own hands, observing the required precautions (pinning threaded connections, grounding of the electrical part of the installation). You should not expect super-performance from such a unit, but some improvement in the design will facilitate the process of producing cinder blocks: a simple lever system can be provided to press down the press. By welding wheels to the supporting frame, you can get a mobile version of the device (the so-called “layer”).

The purchase of factory machines equipped with additional equipment for automating the production of slag concrete products will provide the opportunity to organize your own small business. Such professional equipment can be used to produce not only block products. Matrices of interchangeable shape will allow you to form paving slabs, borders, decorative elements - essentially any analogues of concrete products.

Current employment: For the last 4 years he has been acting as an independent consultant in a number of construction companies.

Cinder block is one of the most popular building materials. It is made using the vibrocompression method from concrete mortar. A wide variety of buildings are erected from cinder blocks - from sheds and garages to residential buildings.

Are you planning to build something out of cinder blocks? Make them yourself! There is nothing complicated in the production technology of these concrete blocks. You need to thoroughly understand the operating procedure, find out the basic requirements and follow the recipe.



The dimensions of the cinder block are standardized - 188 x 190 x 390 mm. Each block has holes. Usually there are 3 of them. For the manufacture of building elements, a mixture of cement of a grade not lower than M400, blast furnace slag and coarse sand is used. Additional fillers and plasticizers are often added.

You can make blocks either manually using molds or using equipment with a vibrocompression function.

On average, one bag of cement is enough to make 36 blocks. The savings are obvious.

The cinder block must have the correct geometry. Even small irregularities will lead to deterioration in the quality of the masonry. To get even blocks, the molds need to be filled not just to the brim, but with a slight mound, because... During vibration, the concrete will shake slightly and settle.

Prices for different types of building blocks

Building blocks

How to prepare the solution?

Some kind of universal composition There is no solution for making cinder blocks - each master has his own unique recipe. In general, you need to focus on the characteristics of the slag composition.

ComponentsVolume, l, per blockCompressive strength of the dried block, kg/cm2Frost resistance of the finished block, cyclesThermal conductivity coefficient of the finished cinder block
Slag up to 8 mm10 30-40 30 0.35-0,4
Sand up to 3 mm1,8
Cement2,75
Water1,5

There is a standard “factory” recipe, you can use it as a guide. The proportions are as follows:

  • slag – 7 parts;
  • sand – 2 parts;
  • cement - 1.5 parts;
  • water – 1.5-3 parts. More about the definition required quantity water will be discussed later.

Helpful advice! Previously, standard dimensions of slag concrete blocks were given. However, for private buildings it is more convenient to use products with dimensions of 400x200x200 mm.

In addition to slag, the composition of such blocks can include ash, sawdust, gypsum, broken bricks, coal combustion products, gravel and other similar materials.

Pay special attention to determining the required volume of water. It must be added so much so that the products do not spread after formation.

You can do a simple test. Drop a handful of solution onto the ground or other surface. If it crumbled, but when squeezed back with your hands, it came back together into a single mass - the consistency is optimal.

Making cinder blocks by hand

If the planned construction is not too large-scale, the blocks can be made without a brick press.

Making a mold


We assemble a mold measuring 40x20x20 cm. If you wish, you can adjust the dimensions at your discretion. To make the mold we use metal sheets or wooden boards.

The design is extremely simple: bottom and side walls. We fasten the walls taking into account the selected width and length of the block. The height of the edges of the form must also correspond to the planned height of the building elements.

Helpful advice! You can make molds with cells to make 4-6 blocks at a time - very convenient. You just need to increase the length and width of the outer edges and install partitions between them.

Prepare empty glass bottles. You will use them to create voids in the blocks.


Filling the blocks

Pour the solution evenly into the mold to the brim.


Place the bottles with the neck up in the poured mixture. We level the surface of the fill, removing excess mortar.

We wait about 5 hours and take out the bottles. We leave the cinder blocks in the molds for a day, after which we carefully remove them and lay them out in stacks on a horizontal surface.

We leave the blocks to dry for a month. Only after the specified time can the material be used for construction.


Helpful advice! Cover the blocks with plastic wrap while drying. It will protect the products from cracking during the heat and prevent them from getting wet in case of rain.

Making cinder blocks on a machine


The machine allows you to significantly increase work productivity. The equipment has a fairly simple design.


Assembling the machine

The main element of a homemade vibratory compacting machine is a mold (matrix) for slag concrete mortar. By its design, this form is a metal box with internal elements in the form of voids. The void stoppers can also be removable.


Set for work includes following materials and tools:


First step. We make a mold according to the size of the future blocks. We cut out the side faces of the matrix from sheet steel. We will make a form for 2 blocks at once. To do this, we cut out the inner central partition from steel and fix it in the box.

Second step.

We determine the height of the elements to decorate the voids.

Important! In accordance with the technology, the height of the voids should be such that the bottom wall has a thickness of 3 cm.

Third step.

We cut 6 pieces of pipe along the length of the limiting cylinders to form voids.

Fourth step. We give the pipes a conical shape. To do this, we cut each piece of pipe longitudinally to the middle, compress it with a vice and connect it using a welding machine. each cone on both edges. Fifth step.


We connect the stops in a row along the long edge of the cinder block. Along the edges of the row we add a 3-centimeter thick plate with holes for fastening with eyes.

Sixth step.

We make a cut in the middle of each such compartment. We weld lugs on the back side of the form. They will allow temporary fastening of elements to create voids. Very

convenient solution

– it will be possible to remove the cylinders and make monolithic blocks.

Compact cinder block machine (press on top)

Seventh step.

On the outside of one of the transverse walls we weld 4 bolts for the mounting holes of the vibration motor.

Eighth step. Using welding, we attach an apron on the loading side and blades along the edges. Ninth step.





We prepare all structural elements for painting - we clean them and thoroughly polish them.

Tenth step.

We do the press. It will look like a plate with holes repeating the location of the holes in the block.

Recommendations for preparing the solution are given above. You can use the standard recipe or modify it at your discretion. The main thing is to obtain optimal viscosity. It can be determined “by eye” - the lump of mixture should hold its shape steadily.

Before loading the mixture, lubricate the contact metal surfaces with oil. Thanks to this, the solution will not stick to the iron.

We place the finished mixture into the matrix and begin pressing.

Place the filled forms on a vibrating plate and let it compact the solution for 5-15 seconds. After the specified time, add more solution to the mold, because previously loaded will inevitably settle.

We repeat the process, only this time we do not turn off the vibrating plate until the clamp reaches the limiters. We remove the mold until the machine stops.


We give the blocks 1-3 days for initial drying, carefully remove them from the blocks, lay them out on a flat horizontal surface and cover them with plastic wrap. The material can be used for its intended purpose no earlier than after a month.


Good luck!

Video - Making cinder blocks with your own hands

Concrete foundation blocks 20x20x40 cm can be made at home. For this you will need: a form, roofing felt, concrete (sand, cement, crushed stone). Let's talk about how to properly make blocks with your own hands.

The mold is made of wood or iron. It is a durable box, 20 cm high and wide, the length depends on how many blocks you plan to make at the same time. Inside the box you need to make partitions every 40 cm, their number also depends on the number of planned blocks. It is better not to make the bottom in a box. For ease of use, two handles should be attached to the sides. You need to make several such forms, so work will go faster. You can make a mold for one block, but the process of making the required number of blocks will take much longer.

Prepare the solution. The quality of the strength of the blocks mainly depends on the brand of cement. The higher the grade of cement, the stronger the concrete will be. The ratio of sand and cement in the working solution is usually indicated on bags of cement. A larger amount of sand is added to high-grade cement. Now the solution is sold ready-made, packaged in bags. Any crushed stone is suitable, but it is better to take fine-grained one. The solution should be thick (so that it sticks together).

The inside of the mold must be wiped with technical oil or diesel fuel so that the concrete does not stick to the walls. We place the form on a roofing material spread out on the ground. We fill in the concrete and compact it well. The concrete should remain in the mold for two days. After this, we remove the form, but the concrete will still be damp, as it should be. Concrete blocks dry naturally; they cannot be dried on purpose. At this time, they need to be protected from the sun and rain (by building a canopy). In two weeks the concrete block will be completely ready for use.

For greater strength of the blocks, at the stage of pouring concrete into the mold, you can add reinforcing wire.

Such concrete blocks are suitable for a basement, and they are also very good to use for the construction of walls and fences.

Using the method described above, you can make hollow blocks for building walls. To obtain hollow blocks, you need to place a wooden beam or a metal frame inside the mold cells.

In the case of making wall blocks, cheaper fillers can be added to concrete instead of crushed stone - expanded clay, slag. The following mortar is perfect for such blocks: cement, expanded clay, sand (1:6:3).

Do-it-yourself foundation blocks of 20x20x40 cm will reduce the cost of construction several times. They will also reduce construction time, since the blocks are larger in size than bricks. Such blocks are suitable for constructing the foundation and plinth of external walls, as well as internal partitions. They can also be perfectly used for building garages and outbuildings.

How to make blocks with your own hands. Video

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How to make your own building blocks. Lightweight wall blocks and their advantages. How to make a wall block production products

In any building materials store or market you can purchase special blocks used to construct a building. However, it is not necessary to buy building stone; you can make it yourself.

Wall blocks have many properties:

They are strong, durable, have improved frost resistance and fire resistance. There is also another property of wall blocks - an increase in the usable area of ​​​​the premises due to the thickness of the wall blocks without reducing the quality of heat transfer. That is why wall blocks are confidently replacing conventional materials for construction. Wall blocks will help you get high-quality building material at low cost, and therefore high-quality construction. A house built from wall stones will be comfortable and warm, and will also allow you to save a lot of money. Moreover, the cost of the wall blocks themselves compares favorably with other building materials. Wall blocks create a feeling of comfort due to the fact that they have a heat-resistant effect, so in a room made of wall blocks you will be cool in the summer and warm in the winter. That is why heating costs are one third less than in houses built of brick. Another positive property of wall blocks is that walls made from them are much lighter than walls built from brick, thus creating less load on the foundation. This means that there is a guarantee that your house will not only be warm, but also durable and less prone to collapse. Plus, your costs for delivering wall blocks are reduced exponentially. Due to their weight (wall blocks are much lighter than, for example, brick), the volumes of delivered material will be greater. So, why should you choose wall blocks to build your house, the pros:

guarantee warmth, comfort, frost resistance and fire resistance

increase the usable area of ​​the room due to their small thickness

do not reduce the quality of heat exchange in the room

installed in a short amount of time

their price and the cost of installation are much cheaper than other building materials

DIY blocks

I chose the block sizes 510x250x215 mm (volume of 14 bricks). From scrap sheet iron I welded 11 molds without bottoms. I welded 2 handles on the sides. I spread the roofing material right on the ground and place the form. To prevent the mixture from sticking to the walls of the mold, I wipe them from the inside with a rag moistened with waste oil or diesel fuel. I pour hard expanded clay concrete there. I don't tamp very hard. I remove the first form after filling the 11th - this is about 10-12 minutes. The blocks remain in place for 12 hours. Then I move them under the canopy. They harden at above-zero temperatures for 24 days. I make a canopy from roofing felt, tarpaulin or plastic film. Under it, the blocks will be protected from rain and sun.

Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks with voids. He inserted two wooden round timbers, turned into a cone and wrapped in roofing iron. The void formers can be round, square, rectangular... Depending on how the blocks are laid, the wall thickness is 215, 250 or 510 mm.

For thick walls it is better to make blocks hollow, for thin walls - filled. Conventionally, walls with a thickness of 215 mm without voids can be called cold, 250 mm - semi-warm, 510 mm with voids - warm.

To make half blocks, I insert a sheet of iron into the mold in the center. In the blanks that are used to form openings in the walls of the house, you have to insert wooden plugs to secure the door and window frames.

Do-it-yourself blocks I tried to make blocks using a vibrator, but the solution goes to the bottom of the mold and the expanded clay does not bind. To prevent this from happening, I cooked general shape for several blocks. The vibrator was attached to the side. I made the walls of the mold higher by 1/3 - this is for concrete shrinkage during vibration.

Fillers can be local non-scarce materials: expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. To prepare the mixture, I used cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio of 1:4:1.

The hardest work is preparing the concrete. To make it a little easier, I first made a manual concrete mixer from a two-hundred-liter barrel. Its rotation axis is shifted by 10 cm relative to the center. I welded crosspieces inside. Thus, due to the eccentric rotation of the barrel and thanks to the crosses, good mixing of the mass was ensured. In 8 turns of the barrel the solution was ready.

In this way I made 500 blocks. They were enough to lay a warm barn measuring 6.2x4 m and add a cold barn to it.

Despite the fact that the blocks are much larger in size and weight than ordinary red brick, the masonry techniques and set of tools remain the same. Banding of masonry in corners and straight sections of walls is also observed. At the beginning of masonry from blocks, it is advisable to make a belt of red brick on the base or foundation (after waterproofing). It should protrude 30-40 mm outward from the base, protecting the latter from getting wet.

Building blocks yourself

The building block of standard sizes is very convenient to use. The laying goes quite quickly, but on the other hand they are not too heavy. In addition, the walls will be of standard sizes, that is, 200 or 400 millimeters. So, the easiest way to make a mold for blocks is from a cement bonded particle board with at least a centimeter thickness. You can also take sheet metal. Honestly, almost any material will do, but when choosing, it is important to consider how durable the form will be, whether it will not become saturated with moisture, how convenient it will be to get ready-made building blocks out of it, and so on. The choice of material for forms should be guided, first of all, by logic. Of course, to make blocks with your own hands in sufficient quantities, one form will be extremely small. It’s better to make about five or ten forms at once, which will be quite enough to get started. Further, if necessary, the number of forms can be increased. As for the solution for homemade blocks, it is recommended to use one of two options. The first option allows you to make blocks of so-called “cold concrete”. To do this, take a traditional solution, which is prepared from sand and cement in proportions of one to four. In other words, for one part of good Portland cement, you need to take four parts of sifted construction sand. Warm concrete is prepared from cement, sand and expanded clay. The proportions in this case will look like one to four to one. That is, for one part of cement, you need to take about four parts of expanded clay and only one part of sand. Preparing building blocks is not a complicated process. The molds are filled with the solution, the excess solution is removed with a trowel and I try to level the top of the block. By the way, the forms should be placed on a flat surface so that the solution disperses as smoothly as possible under the influence of gravity.

After a few hours, the blocks can be carefully removed from the molds and laid out to completely harden. They harden within 24 hours, after which the homemade blocks are placed on pallets for storage or taken directly to construction site.

Building blocks at home

Nowadays, you can buy building blocks at any construction market and building materials store. Their assortment today is very large, you just need to make your choice and your order will be delivered directly to your home. How to make building blocks yourself at home But you can go the other way - you can make building blocks with your own hands. So, let's look below at the basic principles of how to make your own building blocks at home.

First you need to decide what size you plan to make the building block. The most common size today is 400x200x200 mm. Blocks of such geometric parameters not heavy, they are easy to lay when building a wall. With this block you can easily make two types of walls, 200 mm thick and 400 mm thick.

To create a mold with which to make building blocks with your own hands. We recommend making the form into several blocks at once; this will significantly speed up the work process and the prepared concrete will be better used. You can make construction ones at home, both solid and with cavities. The mortar for the blocks is made using cement and sand, and the proportion should be 1 to 4 (this is the so-called cold concrete). You can also add expanded clay, sawdust, slag or glass to the concrete mixture (this type of concrete is also called warm concrete). Many people wonder how to make building blocks themselves so that they do not stick to the mold and have a flat and smooth outer surface. To do this, you need to do the following - apply machine oil to the walls of the mold, or even better, oil.

When pouring building blocks at home, the mold must first be filled 45-50%, then compact the concrete and give the mixture a uniform shape. After this, you can fill the form completely, tamp it down again, level the top side, remove the remaining concrete mixture from the brick form and let it harden. Concrete mix you need to let it harden for about 30 minutes. Next, you carefully remove the mold and can carry out the next cycle of work. The blocks will harden completely only after 24 hours. Care should be taken to ensure that the blocks are protected from direct sunlight and rain until they are completely dry.

So, you already know how to make building blocks yourself at home, now you can safely get to work. And if you make a form for at least a dozen blocks for one go, then you will be able to make 120-150 blocks a day without outside help

In any building materials store or market you can purchase special blocks used to construct a building. However, it is not necessary to buy building stone; you can make it yourself. Our article will tell you how to make building blocks with your own hands.

Determine in advance the desired dimensions of the future building block. The most common and most popular size: 400x200x200 millimeters. This building stone is not too heavy, but the wall thickness can be 200 or 400 mm (this depends on personal preference).

Molds must be constructed for future building blocks. It is advisable to use cement bonded particle board 10 mm thick and sheet metal (2-3 mm). The mold for the stone can also be made from wood that has been sanded from the inside.

Make the mold into one or more blocks (this will speed up the process of making building stone). Do-it-yourself blocks can be hollow or solid (depending on personal preference), which affects the design of the mold. For “cold concrete”, prepare a solution for blocks from cement and sand (proportion 1:4), and for “warm concrete” - from cement, expanded clay and sand in a ratio 1:4:1. Then fill the block mold halfway with the “raw materials”. Compact the solution (you can use the handle of a shovel) and only after that fill the form with the missing “raw materials”. Level the top surface of the future block building rule, that is, remove excess solution with this tool. After thirty to forty minutes, carefully remove the block from the mold, and form a new building stone in it. To completely harden the solution, the blocks are carefully transported to a special place, protected from the sun and rain. The blocks will completely harden in twenty-four hours.

Lightweight wall blocks and their advantages.

In addition to the traditional material for building walls - brick, in private housing construction today block wall materials such as expanded clay concrete, aerated concrete and foam concrete are increasingly used. What are their differences, features, advantages and disadvantages?

Expanded clay concrete.

Peculiarities: Expanded clay concrete blocks made from expanded clay (foamed and fired clay), used as filler with fractions of 5–10 mm, water and cement. Advantages: By thermal insulation characteristics superior to brick, gas and foam concrete. Resistant to moisture. High strength, frost resistance

AERED CONCRETE

Features: Aerated concrete is produced by adding a gas-forming agent (aluminum powder) to a mixture of lime, cement, quartz sand. The material gains strength at elevated pressure and high temperature in autoclave ovens. Aerated concrete is porous both inside and outside, i.e. its flow-through. Products are manufactured in factory conditions, so product quality is guaranteed. Advantages: Greater geometric dimensional accuracy, higher rates of heat and sound insulation, strength.

FOAM CONCRETE

Features: Foam concrete (non-autoclaved cellular concrete) is made from a mixture of water, sand, cement and foaming agent. It hardens naturally in special forms. The structure of foam concrete is closed bubbles of different sizes. Products can be produced privately, directly on the construction site. Homemade blocks do not always correspond to the declared characteristics. Advantages: Due to the closed pore structure, moisture absorption is lower. Aerated concrete and foam concrete have high accuracy geometric dimensions, which allows them to be used during installation using adhesive mixtures, rather than ordinary masonry mortar. The thickness of the seam from the adhesive mixture is 2–3 mm, and from the masonry mortar – 10–12 mm. This makes it possible to make the wall almost uniform and as warm as possible.

The common advantage of all the materials under consideration is: The high porosity of the materials provides high thermal insulation properties and excellent sound insulation characteristics. Thanks to the special structure of the material, the walls “breathe”. The blocks are non-flammable, do not melt and do not emit harmful substances when heated. Due to their low weight, they significantly reduce the load on the foundation.

A common disadvantage of all the materials under consideration is: Despite the high thermal insulation properties, walls made of these materials require insulation. The porosity of the blocks requires mandatory protection of the building walls from precipitation. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain the vapor permeability of the structure.

Aerated concrete and foam concrete have an additional disadvantage: low bending strength. Reinforcement must be carried out every three rows of masonry. Tape required monolithic foundation or monolithic ground floor.

How to make a wall block

Building blocks have a lot of advantages. These include the convenience and speed of construction of buildings, the relative cheapness of construction, and others. Wall blocks are one of the few materials with which you can build a house from scratch almost single-handedly. If you have a lot of free time and not a lot of money, you can try making wall blocks yourself.

You will need

Cement grade M400; - filler (expanded clay, slag, etc.); - SDO additive (saponified wood resin); - sand;

Shovel;

Containers for measuring and stirring the solution;

Block form.

For 1 m³ of expanded clay concrete M75: - cement M400 – 250 kg; - expanded clay – 1.05 m³; - sand – 0.2 m³; - wood saponified resin (WRS) – 0.3 kg;

Water – 0.25-0.35 m³.

For 1 m³ of slag concrete M50: - cement M400 – 200 kg; - slag – 0.7 m³; - sand – 0.25 m³; - lime – 50 kg;

Water 0.1–0.15 m³.

Instructions

1 Select the type of block that suits you best

Wall blocks can be made on the basis of various binding components and fillers. Cement is used as the main component. The choice of fillers is much wider. This can be sand, expanded clay, slag, sawdust, etc. Depending on the type of fillers and their ratio with each other, it is possible to obtain a material that differs in strength, thermal conductivity, moisture resistance, and frost resistance. In the manufacture of wall blocks with my own hands Most often, slag or expanded clay are chosen as fillers. Slag and expanded clay blocks have good operational properties– high thermal insulation combined with sufficient strength – and at the same time relatively cheap. Slag can often be purchased for free or at a meager price.

2 Decide on the block brand

The strength of a building block, characterized by its grade, is determined by the relative content of cement and fillers. By increasing the amount of cement and sand relative to expanded clay and slag, the strength of the block can be increased. However, it should be remembered that at the same time its thermal insulation properties decrease. It is necessary to find a middle ground between strength and thermal insulation.

3 Decide on the block size

The most common standard size is 390x190x188 mm. However, you can make blocks of any size. Before settling on a specific size, you should determine the thickness of the wall of the building for which the blocks are intended, and then, based on it, select the size of the block.

4 Make, buy or rent a block making machine

You can do without a machine by making the simplest collapsible molds (matrices) from sheet metal, wood or plastic. However, in this case, a large number of molds will be required, since the poured blocks will have to remain in the molds for some time to harden. Cinder block machines, thanks to the presence of a vibrator, allow you to unload the block immediately after molding. If you plan to make a large number of blocks, it is better to do this using a machine. The time gain will be huge.

5 Prepare the working mixture

Measure out all the components (cement, sand, slag or expanded clay, lime) in the required proportions and mix them thoroughly in the mixing container. After this, add water with SDO dissolved in it. Depending on the moisture content of the fillers, different amounts of water may be required, so add it gradually, stirring and assessing the mobility of the mixture. Don't add too much water. The stiffer (less mobile) the mixture, the stronger the blocks.

6 Fill the mold with the mixture

If you are using manual collapsible molds, when pouring, thoroughly compact the mixture in the mold with a trowel or shovel until the surface is smooth and covered with a thin layer of water. When using a cinder block machine to compact the mixture, it is enough to turn on the vibrator for a few seconds (5-8).

7 While the blocks are curing, keep their surfaces moist. This can be achieved by regularly watering the blocks or covering them with plastic film. The blocks should harden while in the shade.

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How to make building blocks with your own hands.

The construction of a house from blocks is progressing faster than from bricks. You can purchase them freely, but many people make building blocks with their own hands.

Blocks in construction are used not only for building walls. The use of building blocks for the foundation also speeds it up. Of course, these blocks must be very dense: 1.5 tons per 1 cubic m. Making blocks with your own hands, if you look at it, is not such an extremely difficult matter.

Where to begin?

And the beginning of everything is making molds.

Forms

On sale there are molds for building blocks with standard sizes. And at home you can make building blocks in sizes that suit you. We take sheet metal, cut out the required shape from it and weld the shape. Molds are also made from wood; they are good for adobe blocks. There is no need for a bottom here. But the handles on the sides will come in handy, it will be more convenient to work with them.

Material for homemade building blocks

What's great about DIY building blocks is that they use material that you already have or can easily purchase.

Basically, blocks are made from cement with various fillers, but craftsmen, like manufacturers, sometimes do without it. Depending on the selected material, it is possible to produce homemade building blocks of the following types:

  • slag concrete;
  • blocks based on liquid glass;
  • adobe;
  • chip concrete or wood concrete.

How the filler is used:

  • ash;
  • slag;
  • dropout;
  • crushed stone;
  • gypsum;
  • perlite;
  • expanded clay;
  • sawdust;
  • straw;
  • broken bricks and more.

Blocks without cement

Making building blocks using this technology is not available to everyone, because the mixture contains liquid glass. Unless you can negotiate with the nearest concrete products plant and buy the main component there. The mixture will consist of:

    • two dozen parts of river sand;
    • one and a half dozen parts of liquid glass;
    • 4 parts chalk;
    • 3 parts slaked lime;
    • 2 parts kaolin.

Manufacturing process

  • First the sand is sifted;
  • chalk is added;
  • everything mixes well;
  • slaked lime is introduced;
  • kaolin or brick crushed to a powder state;
  • liquid glass.

The starting raw material should be homogeneous and dough-like. Before pouring this dough-like mass, wet the inside of the molds. If you wish, you can add color to the building blocks. To do this add:

  • chalk of any color;
  • red brick ground into powder.

Fillers are added to such blocks: slag, expanded clay, shavings. Their strength is high - they are much stronger than cement ones.

Expanded clay concrete blocks

Expanded clay concrete blocks are one of the types of cinder blocks, where expanded clay serves as a filler.

Compound

  • cement - 1 part;
  • expanded clay - 5 parts;
  • sand - 3 parts;
  • water - about one part.

Technology

The technology for manufacturing expanded clay concrete building blocks is generally the same as any other:

  • the starting material is placed in pre-lubricated molds;
  • compacted;
  • the form is removed after 10 minutes;
  • the product remains in place;
  • after 12 hours it is transferred to a place protected from precipitation and direct rays of the sun.
  • at warm weather the blocks will become hard in a little less than a month.

If you plan to make thick walls (about 0.5 m), then blocks with voids are better. To do this, wooden inserts are inserted into the mold: round or square. And so that they can be easily removed, before inserting, wrap them in roofing iron.

Advantages

  • light weight;
  • frost resistance;
  • breathability;
  • moisture resistance;
  • strength;
  • low cost.

A house made from expanded clay concrete blocks is built faster than from brick; less mortar is needed for masonry.

Adobe blocks

Components

For this type of block, the material is literally under your feet. All you need is:

  • clay;
  • straw;
  • river sand;
  • water.

Features of selection

In order for the building blocks to have characteristics that meet all the requirements, you need to know something about the features of selecting components:

  1. It is better to prepare the clay in the fall, cover it with film and let it overwinter - this will improve its quality.
  2. First sift the sand, freeing it from impurities.
  3. Straw can be taken from the field where wheat, rye or barley has just been harvested. If the straw is left over from the harvest of the previous year, then the quality will not be the same - after all, after lying there, it begins to rot.
  • clay - 1 cubic meter m;
  • straw - 20 kg;
  • sand - 25%.

In order not to spoil the entire batch of blocks, you need to make a small experimental batch. So let's do it in the following way:

  • we combine all the components in small quantities and write down the proportions;
  • make a batch;
  • form a ball;
  • leave in the sun to dry for about 1 hour;
  • we throw it on the ground at a height of one and a half meters.

If all components are selected in the required proportions, then the ball will remain intact. Did you add more sand than you should? It will collapse or crack. Is there enough sand? The ball will blur. This is how we select the most practical best option.

Preparation

To prepare the mixture for several dozen blocks at once, you need to make a hole in the ground: round with a diameter of about 2.5 m or rectangular 1.5x2.5 with a depth of half a meter. Line its bottom with polyethylene. Although some ready-made container will do: a trough or an old bathtub. Then everything is done as it was done in the old days: we put on high rubber boots and walk, mixing everything until smooth.

Manufacturing

  • While the batch is in the manufacturing stage, we are preparing a platform for the products: we select a flat, sunny place;
  • We bring the mixture in buckets;
  • fill out forms;
  • compact;
  • remove excess by running a board along the upper edges of the mold;
  • remove the form.

The finished blocks should dry. This usually takes several days. It is important that they are not exposed to rain. Then they are transferred to a shelter and dried further. They will be completely ready in 10 days.

A house made of adobe blocks turns out to be very warm and comfortable. In addition, this building material is environmentally friendly, durable, and fireproof. It is used for buildings no higher than 2 floors.

Sawdust concrete blocks (arobolite)

The technology for making sawdust concrete blocks is similar to making adobe blocks, but the components do not need to be mined, but purchased.

Components

Before you start making, you need to purchase:

  • cement - M300 or higher;
  • sand - fraction no larger than 1.8 microns;
  • not slaked lime;
  • sawdust (coniferous wood).

Preparing the Components

  • sift through sawdust;
  • mix dry cement and sand;
  • add lime here and mix again;
  • add sawdust and repeat the mixing procedure;
  • pour in water;
  • In order for the components to adhere well to each other, add calcium chloride or alumina sulfate;
  • we control the quality of the mixture.

To control quality, we roll the ball and squeeze it in our palms. If water flows, there is too much of it in the mixture; if the ball crumbles, there is too much sawdust or sand.

Let's start production

  • Line the form with plastic wrap;
  • add the mixture;
  • we ram;
  • Without removing from the mold, leave to harden for 5 days;
  • remove from the mold and dry further.

The drying process will take a long time - from 1.5 to 3 months: it all depends on the mass of the block.

Equipment

If the construction is large-scale, then it may make sense to spend money on equipment for building blocks. For example: there is a mini-machine for sale for the production of wood concrete RPB-1500 BL. Its productivity is 1 sawdust block with dimensions 19 x 19 x 39 cm per minute. Produced by a Russian manufacturer - INTEK company.

Wide Application Found in the manufacture of building blocks were vibrating tables. They solve the problem of compacting mixtures. The vibrating table consists of:

  • movable table;
  • engine;
  • control panels;
  • sometimes a transformer is included in the kit.

The compaction of the working mixture occurs under the influence of vibration created by a vibration motor.

Duty cycle

  • on movable table set the form;
  • place half or completely dry mixture into the mold;
  • start the engine;
  • drying.

How to choose?

There are 3 types of vibrating plates capable of compacting material by weight:

  • up to 75 kg;
  • from 75 to 160 kg;
  • from 160 kg.

Based on these indicators, you should select the optimal vibrating table option for yourself.

Manufacturers

They are produced by:

  • Russian company VPK ;
  • LLC "Stroymash";
  • "Red Poppy" plant in Yaroslavl and others.

We supply vibrating tables and foreign manufacturers:

  • Spain - Enar and Hervisa;
  • Germany - Wacker;
  • Italy - Batmatic;
  • France - Paclite.